Tip on clocks; I found a can of TV tuner cleaner (for old style TVs) works great for clocks. It's hard to find, tho. It cleans out the dirt & cigarette tar and leaves a very fine lubricant behind that leaves no oily residue. Only thing I've found other than alcohol & that's not good for any electric motors. Contact cleaner may also work, but you'll need to re-lube with clock oil if you use it.
Awesome, We have enjoyed the tips and tricks on this subject for sure. Things that we didn't know. Both of our clocks still seem fine though neither keep time worth a flip. We imagine that may be due to the WD40 we used.
Actually we are headed to Texas in May to pick up a Fairlane Wagon. Howes that for different? =) We focus on Mustang, Camaro becasue they are a large market. We love the big Fords and have even lusted after a '67 390 4V four-speed that a dude has in our area. SO, you never know what we might do!
I'm restoring a 20 y/o Ford. I can find parts for it in any junk yard. I'm glad I'm not infatuated with 50's and 60's model cars. The parts are a pain to find and when you do, you have to rebuild most clocks, radios and speedometers. I'll leave those things to the experts. I'm in it just for FUN.
My experience with 20 year old cars is they have issues too, and are getting harder to find parts for in the salvage yards. The older cars are often supported in the aftermarket to a greater degree. BUT, both can be fun to muck about with! 😃😁
Typically the trim bolts and snaps on. the snap parts just need to be hooked over the top of the clip on the car and then popped into place with the heel of your hand.
I'd like to see a build of a 72-74 Mercury Comet GT. It & the Maverick Grabber were the neglected brothers of the Mustang, but were great cars in their own right. Especially the GT & Grabber which came with 302 V-8s. It was a small, light car with a V-8, so it was similar to the 65-66 Mustang in weight. Plenty fast with a small bit of engine mods.
Man you are going to hate us for admitting this, but Jeff let go of a bucket seat, 1972 Comet GT a while back. He was sad to see it go but at the time it needed a new home. We like the Mavericks and Comets, but due to their disposable nature, they are really hard to find in good condition around our area.
I've enjoyed your 69 Fairlane videos. My 68 is lacking the clock as well. The lens on my mine is actually crystal clear but has a series of heat cracks in it. I have made flat lenses for gauges out of Lexan (Polycarbonate) which is also the same thing CDs are made of. Although in the case of the clock, it wouldn't be cone shaped. You could make a cast out of the original plastic using fiberglass, layers of aluminum foil or something, then lay the Lexan over the cast then heat it with a heat gun to get the shape you want. I realize if your going for a stock look, most people with money to burn wouldn't care to spend $400 on a period correct AM/FM stereo but any cheap-o $30 modern radio (Pyle/Dual) sounds 10 times better than those old factory car stereos. Those factory stereos from the 1960s and 70s sound like rocks in a tin can. Plus you have to either insulate your charging and ignition system or install a big ass filter, otherwise they buzz like crazy when the engine is running. I put a Pyle in my 68 Fairlane with an SD card function. Instead of those dual dash speakers that sells for about $75, I used two 3" speakers from Wal-Mart, some heat pump strapping material to hold them in place, secured using the factory nuts to replace the single dashboard speaker and I'm happy with it. Sure I had to hack the hole in the dash but it would cost me $10,000 to turn this car into a show car. This car is a driver so I don't care. This car is a driver so I'm not concerned about it. I'd rather having a descent sounding stereo.
If I could ever pull it off I'd like to build a 67 Merc Parklane fastback or convertible on a modern ford Panther chassis with the new 5.0 power plant & 6 speed trans, classic looks modern everything else even dealer repairible !
WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement. It should be used for that and NOT as a lubricant. Seems to work great at first but, it will dry out and make a gummy mess. You'll be back in that clock in a year or so. Use some synthetic oil like they do on speedometers.
you need to have the mechanism disassembled and cleaned and all bushings fixed and after that lubrication and ajustment. Oils are only needed with tiny bearings, gears are not to be oiled exept escapment wheel few drops (depending on a clock) General watch & clock oils are best. So treating a clock with general purpose oils is always a no no. Its a job for your local watchmaker. Anyone who has a nice classic car can afford for a clock service.
Just FYI please don't use WD-40 to lube a clock. I also restore antique clocks and when people spray their clock with WD-40 it does not turn out well. What happens is the WD-40 dries out over time and it turns in to glue and the clock will stop working. I charge extra for cleaning a clock that has been sprayed with WD-40. Because it takes a lot of extra time to clean it.
Two part mold if you have an original. Another guy did it with a vacuum de-gassing on the rubber for a '29 to '32 Cadillac (and steering wheel too, different video) and it looked really good. It would be suitable only for a cosmetic resto probably, as it's probably not shatter-resistant. Better than not having one at all though, IMO.
True. But that lens (the Fairlane one) with the cone and complex curves presents a real challenge with warping the look of the gauge face through the lens. These are no available, at the time of shooting this video they were only available NOS.
LOL I'll keep doing it as I see fit. =) That is the BEAUTY of RUclips! You can skip the intros and STILL get great info and I can hone my "acting" skills! Everyone wins!
Tip on clocks; I found a can of TV tuner cleaner (for old style TVs) works great for clocks. It's hard to find, tho. It cleans out the dirt & cigarette tar and leaves a very fine lubricant behind that leaves no oily residue. Only thing I've found other than alcohol & that's not good for any electric motors. Contact cleaner may also work, but you'll need to re-lube with clock oil if you use it.
Awesome, We have enjoyed the tips and tricks on this subject for sure. Things that we didn't know. Both of our clocks still seem fine though neither keep time worth a flip. We imagine that may be due to the WD40 we used.
thanks for the info MB! We appreciate the update!
Actually we are headed to Texas in May to pick up a Fairlane Wagon. Howes that for different? =) We focus on Mustang, Camaro becasue they are a large market. We love the big Fords and have even lusted after a '67 390 4V four-speed that a dude has in our area. SO, you never know what we might do!
I'm restoring a 20 y/o Ford. I can find parts for it in any junk yard. I'm glad I'm not infatuated with 50's and 60's model cars. The parts are a pain to find and when you do, you have to rebuild most clocks, radios and speedometers. I'll leave those things to the experts. I'm in it just for FUN.
My experience with 20 year old cars is they have issues too, and are getting harder to find parts for in the salvage yards. The older cars are often supported in the aftermarket to a greater degree. BUT, both can be fun to muck about with! 😃😁
Typically the trim bolts and snaps on. the snap parts just need to be hooked over the top of the clip on the car and then popped into place with the heel of your hand.
12:50 "schmuts" techical terms gotta love 'em ;)
I'd like to see a build of a 72-74 Mercury Comet GT. It & the Maverick Grabber were the neglected brothers of the Mustang, but were great cars in their own right. Especially the GT & Grabber which came with 302 V-8s. It was a small, light car with a V-8, so it was similar to the 65-66 Mustang in weight. Plenty fast with a small bit of engine mods.
Man you are going to hate us for admitting this, but Jeff let go of a bucket seat, 1972 Comet GT a while back. He was sad to see it go but at the time it needed a new home. We like the Mavericks and Comets, but due to their disposable nature, they are really hard to find in good condition around our area.
I've enjoyed your 69 Fairlane videos. My 68 is lacking the clock as well. The lens on my mine is actually crystal clear but has a series of heat cracks in it.
I have made flat lenses for gauges out of Lexan (Polycarbonate) which is also the same thing CDs are made of. Although in the case of the clock, it wouldn't be cone shaped. You could make a cast out of the original plastic using fiberglass, layers of aluminum foil or something, then lay the Lexan over the cast then heat it with a heat gun to get the shape you want.
I realize if your going for a stock look, most people with money to burn wouldn't care to spend $400 on a period correct AM/FM stereo but any cheap-o $30 modern radio (Pyle/Dual) sounds 10 times better than those old factory car stereos. Those factory stereos from the 1960s and 70s sound like rocks in a tin can. Plus you have to either insulate your charging and ignition system or install a big ass filter, otherwise they buzz like crazy when the engine is running.
I put a Pyle in my 68 Fairlane with an SD card function.
Instead of those dual dash speakers that sells for about $75, I used two 3" speakers from Wal-Mart, some heat pump strapping material to hold them in place, secured using the factory nuts to replace the single dashboard speaker and I'm happy with it. Sure I had to hack the hole in the dash but it would cost me $10,000 to turn this car into a show car. This car is a driver so I don't care.
This car is a driver so I'm not concerned about it. I'd rather having a descent sounding stereo.
Well guys, if you can help him out hop too! We'll keep our eyes peeled when we hit the yards Jeff.
If I could ever pull it off I'd like to build a 67 Merc Parklane fastback or convertible on a modern ford Panther chassis with the new 5.0 power plant & 6 speed trans, classic looks modern everything else even dealer repairible !
Can you tell us what is? We do invite that sort of thing to be posted.
Yes, yes you do....
WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement. It should be used for that and NOT as a lubricant. Seems to work great at first but, it will dry out and make a gummy mess. You'll be back in that clock in a year or so. Use some synthetic oil like they do on speedometers.
I learned that.
Well, you folks need to talk about us! We are interested--as long as we can keep the format.
you need to have the mechanism disassembled and cleaned and all bushings fixed and after that lubrication and ajustment. Oils are only needed with tiny bearings, gears are not to be oiled exept escapment wheel few drops (depending on a clock) General watch & clock oils are best. So treating a clock with general purpose oils is always a no no. Its a job for your local watchmaker. Anyone who has a nice classic car can afford for a clock service.
Very nice job on the clock.
I hope Vinnie bought you lunch with his part of the radio money.lol
How about doing a show on the large bodied Fords & Mercury cars why just the Mustang & similar bodied cars or maybe a Ranchero? Dare to be different !
Nothing yet. We are giving a fellow till next Tuesday to say that he wants it. Then it's eBay bound.
Where did you place the positive clip on the clock to complete the circuit?
So when are you all going to have your own show on cable ? I like how-to shows way better than reallity shows !
Thanks! No lunch...Jeff is sad....
Just FYI please don't use WD-40 to lube a clock. I also restore antique clocks and when people spray their clock with WD-40 it does not turn out well. What happens is the WD-40 dries out over time and it turns in to glue and the clock will stop working. I charge extra for cleaning a clock that has been sprayed with WD-40. Because it takes a lot of extra time to clean it.
You are right about that. We learned this after the fact.
I have a 79 mecury couger xr7.and I don't no how to put trim on?
So how much did you make?
No production piece for that lens? Alumilite rubber and clear casting resin.
Nice thought, but we fear not that simple. The lens has to be consistent in thickness.
Two part mold if you have an original. Another guy did it with a vacuum de-gassing on the rubber for a '29 to '32 Cadillac (and steering wheel too, different video) and it looked really good. It would be suitable only for a cosmetic resto probably, as it's probably not shatter-resistant. Better than not having one at all though, IMO.
True. But that lens (the Fairlane one) with the cone and complex curves presents a real challenge with warping the look of the gauge face through the lens. These are no available, at the time of shooting this video they were only available NOS.
Some times ya just wanna slap that guy...lol
WD40 is not for clocks.
terrible acting....
Well, if I were and actor I would say thanks for the input.
Well, if you're not an actor, skip the whole dialog bits. The information bit of the video was excellent. Play to your strengths, bro.
LOL I'll keep doing it as I see fit. =) That is the BEAUTY of RUclips! You can skip the intros and STILL get great info and I can hone my "acting" skills! Everyone wins!