Mat - I really appreciated your little notes like "don't add to much powder at once to avoid dust" and starting with gloves AND goggles. I've seen a lot of DIY videos (and instructions in kits) that assume newbies know safe pouring, mixing, and handling procedures. As a chemistry instructor by trade I know for a fact that many people don't know these "simple" procedures to avoid ruining your kit/chemicals (or worse, avoiding bodily danger).
Thanks Tim! While these are easily the least hazardous materials I play around with in the darkroom, safety can never be understated. Don't get me started with kit instructions, they might as well be Ikea-style w/o text.
Holy smokes, the print at 0:06 did not get nearly enough screen time. Breathtaking! I've been shooting 4x5 for like 6 years now, and I never really want to upgrade until I watch your videos where you make big ol' contact prints like this one. Now I'm thinking 8x10 isn't even big enough... you're bad influence on my bank account, Matt!
Thanks for the DIY info Mat! Good Luck with the project. After I did it with my students a few times, my wife tried it with a social group that meets at the Library she works at! Folks loved it!
I used to really be down on Cyanotype until I started using it during demonstrations. It's such a great, hands-on photographic experience for beginners and now I love it!
Thanks for the interesting video. It is good to see other photographers using cyanotype. I started off buying cyanotype kits but now mix my own. I also started using a 10/10 (FAC:PF) solution as recommended by Christina Anderson. It has a good tonal range which is similar to New Cyanotype and is a lot easier to make. Cheers
The intro of your video got me thinking - many years ago, I sent a VHS copy of the movie to someone in Europe (don’t remember where) who contacted me because I wrote a review of the original “making of” promo film on IMDB, which was impossible to find at the time (this was before the first DVD release) but which the TV channel I watched the movie on every time they played it, TCM, always showed before or after the actual movie. Was that you? Of course, as the comments here prove, there are a lot of obsessed people out there, but it’s possible so thought i’d ask!
They last a surprisingly long time, though you may not get the same contrast and pop of fresher chemistry. Also I'd recommend filtering Part A since it may have some mold growth on top after a while.
mat, one question, as you haven't added the AgNO3 (silver nitrate), isn't this just like colloiden, in that process, aka the 'medium' on which the sensitiser sticks to, so is thus not light sensitive, as the silver is the sensitive bit? a Great video, but also one warning, as this has cyanide in it, shouldn't you also wear a respirator?, or at least do it in a "well ventilated area", just in case!! ( and also have the msdss for all of this, for the fire dept, so they know about it, as it is not a common household item).
This is nothing like collodion in terms of formulation nor volatility. The light sensitive compound here is the potassium ferricyanide. Also this is one of the easiest to handle in terms of chemical safety. Well ventilated is always recommended, but not necessary with these. Both compounds are easily flushed out with warm water, and it is fairly easy to avoid creating dust with them if you work slowly.
@@MatMarrash thanks for clarifying, as most of us have heard or seen a youtube video on 'wet-plate, colloiden' but not much on the cyanotype or tintype processes; due to what one would assume is the negative size, as most of the 'older' processes occurred on ulf sized cameras, and of coarse 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10" which are not as popular anymore, with ink printing of enlargements in this range (from digital or film MF systems), and the cost of the ulf materials, and the fact of the diy nature of having to make the plates yourself, instead of the convenience of acetate film negatives, paper (like the one from ilford) which can be contact printed onto, and that labs can do the grafting for you.
Cyanotype is a silver-free process, no AgNO3 necessary. Collodion has a lot nastier chemicals than traditional cyanotype. Despite the scary name, potassium ferricyanide is actually not a particularly hazardous chemical. I mean, don't eat it. Overkill on chemical safety is never really a bad idea though.
@@andrewbroekhuijsen6770 It is quite harmless... UNLESS you add some strong acid to it, it the releases cyanide... So watch out when storing and disposing that it doesnt mix!
Mat - I really appreciated your little notes like "don't add to much powder at once to avoid dust" and starting with gloves AND goggles. I've seen a lot of DIY videos (and instructions in kits) that assume newbies know safe pouring, mixing, and handling procedures. As a chemistry instructor by trade I know for a fact that many people don't know these "simple" procedures to avoid ruining your kit/chemicals (or worse, avoiding bodily danger).
Thanks Tim! While these are easily the least hazardous materials I play around with in the darkroom, safety can never be understated. Don't get me started with kit instructions, they might as well be Ikea-style w/o text.
Yes - love the look of the contact print. So pleasing to see it on paper after you took that big, heavy camera out there.
Holy smokes, the print at 0:06 did not get nearly enough screen time. Breathtaking! I've been shooting 4x5 for like 6 years now, and I never really want to upgrade until I watch your videos where you make big ol' contact prints like this one. Now I'm thinking 8x10 isn't even big enough... you're bad influence on my bank account, Matt!
Thanks for the DIY info Mat! Good Luck with the project. After I did it with my students a few times, my wife tried it with a social group that meets at the Library she works at! Folks loved it!
I used to really be down on Cyanotype until I started using it during demonstrations. It's such a great, hands-on photographic experience for beginners and now I love it!
Awesome! I've been researching Cyanotype over the last few week so to get a MM take on it has just made my day.
Thanks for the interesting video. It is good to see other photographers using cyanotype. I started off buying cyanotype kits but now mix my own. I also started using a 10/10 (FAC:PF) solution as recommended by Christina Anderson. It has a good tonal range which is similar to New Cyanotype and is a lot easier to make. Cheers
awesome video, thank you. I use a UV flashlight, costs around $20
Very cool! Mind sharing a link to the specific UV flashlight?
I took one with 128 LEDs on amazon
More power to you Mat.
The intro of your video got me thinking - many years ago, I sent a VHS copy of the movie to someone in Europe (don’t remember where) who contacted me because I wrote a review of the original “making of” promo film on IMDB, which was impossible to find at the time (this was before the first DVD release) but which the TV channel I watched the movie on every time they played it, TCM, always showed before or after the actual movie. Was that you? Of course, as the comments here prove, there are a lot of obsessed people out there, but it’s possible so thought i’d ask!
Thanks for the inspiration, Mat. I'm still sitting on cyanotype kits, hope they still work.
They last a surprisingly long time, though you may not get the same contrast and pop of fresher chemistry. Also I'd recommend filtering Part A since it may have some mold growth on top after a while.
Awesome video, that was the way i learned how to do it back in the 70s ... I use kits now, but you have inspired me to try the scratch method again!!!
mat, one question, as you haven't added the AgNO3 (silver nitrate), isn't this just like colloiden, in that process, aka the 'medium' on which the sensitiser sticks to, so is thus not light sensitive, as the silver is the sensitive bit? a Great video, but also one warning, as this has cyanide in it, shouldn't you also wear a respirator?, or at least do it in a "well ventilated area", just in case!! ( and also have the msdss for all of this, for the fire dept, so they know about it, as it is not a common household item).
This is nothing like collodion in terms of formulation nor volatility. The light sensitive compound here is the potassium ferricyanide. Also this is one of the easiest to handle in terms of chemical safety. Well ventilated is always recommended, but not necessary with these. Both compounds are easily flushed out with warm water, and it is fairly easy to avoid creating dust with them if you work slowly.
@@MatMarrash thanks for clarifying, as most of us have heard or seen a youtube video on 'wet-plate, colloiden' but not much on the cyanotype or tintype processes; due to what one would assume is the negative size, as most of the 'older' processes occurred on ulf sized cameras, and of coarse 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10" which are not as popular anymore, with ink printing of enlargements in this range (from digital or film MF systems), and the cost of the ulf materials, and the fact of the diy nature of having to make the plates yourself, instead of the convenience of acetate film negatives, paper (like the one from ilford) which can be contact printed onto, and that labs can do the grafting for you.
Cyanotype is a silver-free process, no AgNO3 necessary. Collodion has a lot nastier chemicals than traditional cyanotype. Despite the scary name, potassium ferricyanide is actually not a particularly hazardous chemical. I mean, don't eat it. Overkill on chemical safety is never really a bad idea though.
@@andrewbroekhuijsen6770 It is quite harmless... UNLESS you add some strong acid to it, it the releases cyanide... So watch out when storing and disposing that it doesnt mix!
🤔 "promosm"