SIHH 2019: Hands-on the Christophe Claret ANGELICO tourbillon watch with long detend escapement
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- Christophe Claret´s "Angelico" Tourbillon with long detent escapement and cable-type fusee in fact is a one of a kind watch. Master-watchmaker Christophe Claret and his team conceived the timepiece to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand Christophe Claret and the 30th anniversary of the Manufacture Christophe Claret. As you might know Christophe started his business by developing ultra-complicated movements and selling them to many well-known brands. The latter sold them under their name... Ten years ago Christophe then started to manufacture watches under his name, but still continues to support the industry with his ticking developments.
Movement: Caliber: DTC08, mechanical hand-wound
Dimensions: Diameter: 41.10 mm
Height: 14.20 mm (with time indication)
Number of components: 470
Number of jewels: 62
Barrels: Two parallel-mounted mainspring barrels
Power reserve: more than 72 hours
Escapement: Tourbillon with detent escapement and cable-type fusee
Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 2.5 Hz (18,000 A/h)
Functions: Time and instant-jump dual-time display with day/night indicator
Case:
Diameter: 45.50 mm
Height: 17.45 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)
Available in two 10-piece limited editions in 5N red gold or titanium.
Finally, someone covering Christophe Claret at SIHH! Incredible watches, I’ve been waiting to see what they showcased!
You are very welcome @ WatchAdvisor! You have to admire what Christophe is doing! And I so much liked him to take over the introduction of the video, knowing how shy he is...
The Christopher Claret, is a great addition to beautifully conceived timepieces.
And further testimony to the brilliant ; master watchmakers living today who are confirming that the finest mechanical works of art, are in great demand in the world of contemporary horology.
Christopher Claret, is a true example of a brilliant & innovative :master watchmaker.
Beautiful watch. I like how the crown is lowered so the crystal can lie unobstructed for side viewing.
Thank you for this video providing greater insight into Christophe Claret, a brilliant watchmaker and contributor to horology in our time.
Michael Petrashko Michael, you are welcome! Thank you for your feedback! I agree Christophe is brilliant watchmaker...
The complications in this watch is so much that i got lost....loooool....but the main thing is that I appreciate the INGÉNIERIE of Christophe Claret. I never knew him but thanks to this video, i gain some great knowledge. Cheers.
Glorifying a dyneema wire as something special really made my day. It's just a plastic wire. I use dyneema lines on my boat, they are very nice, though.
I don't think they glorified them ... 😉
wow gorgeous watch as always Watch Advisor puts out the best watches.
Nick N We are working hard to bring you interesting stuff... Thanks for your feedback 😉
For a moment I thought this was going to be about Ulysse Nardin!!!! Love that sailor's hat ❤
Thanks for sharing our passion!
Incredible
Christophe Claret is always good for a surprise!
Thanks for showing a brand we hear very little about
The Wristwatch Experience Thank you for the feedback! It’s good to know that you guys like this kind of content! So more will follow...
They would be a MIRACLE Alexander
They would be a MIRACLE.
A piece of art on the wrist...
@@WatchAdvisor i cannot thank God enough for my awesome friends. Everything has been beyond beautiful. I am hoping for miracles and a fabulous turn around today.
Peter Sampson I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you!
@@WatchAdvisor it would be a MIRACLE and i will pay it forward for the rest of my life. God bless my wonderful friends.
So this is a detent escapement tourbillon with a cable and fusee (not fusee and chain) showing two time zones with jumping hours, right? There's so much in that watch it boggles my mind! He truly is a genius, I first got to know him from Harry Winston's Opus 4 which also is a masterpiece of art and watchmaking.
Yes, the Christophe Claret manufacture is a real engineering powerhouse. Their core expertise is actually not finished watches but in engineering complex mechanisms for other companies, which Christophe himself has done for over thirty years. They are also the only independent to have completely in-house media development, even extending to digital animation and visual effects.
The think explained at 7:30 I think it sounds the same like a CVT gearbox.
Yes, that describes it quite well ...
Just could wrap my head around how this one worked. But clearly it's very complex. I would have loved to get a clear estimate of how accurate they felt it would be in production, either by the day or month.
Regarded as the quintessence of chronometric precision, this type of detent escapement first appeared in the 18th century, at a time when watchmakers were competing to create a time-measuring instrument of maximum precision, serving to determine a ship’s exact geographical position at sea. Incorporated into marine chronometer mounted on gimbals, this mechanism demonstrated exemplary reliability in long-term navigation - its only weakness being extreme sensitivity to lateral impacts, which is incompatible with the all-important sturdiness required for wear on the wrist. To prevent the detent from turning over, an anti-pivot cam, integral to the sprung balance, works in conjunction with the safety finger. This fabulous mechanism, whose reliability had already been demonstrated in the Maestoso watch, is fitted for the first time in a tourbillon. In addition to the tourbillon with detent escapement the watch is also endowed with the constant force delivered by the cable-type fusee transmission mechanism linked to the double mainspring barrel. Traditionally equipped with a chain, this device, developed to ensure a constant supply of energy to the movement. Instead of the chain, whose design is based on the alignment of multiple links, the watchmaker has made the unprecedented choice of connecting the double mainspring barrel to the fusee via a Dyneema nanofiber cable. There are two reasons for this. The first is to optimize efficiency by eliminating all the friction between links entailed by a traditional chain; and the second is to increase and precisely regulate the power reserve: the number of times the cable is wrapped around the fusee or the barrel is double that of a system equipped with a chain.
While super-thin at just 0.18 mm in diameter, meaning the equivalent of three hairs’ breadths, this cable is extremely resistant. By way of example, such a cable is strong enough to pull a weight of nearly 10 kilos. While such force is obviously not required to ensure the transmission of energy to the movement of the Angelico watch, the robustness of the cable is a real guarantee of reliability. Especially since, so as to avoid any risk of breakage, it is tied and then wrapped twice around the barrel or the fusee. Based on the self-locking principle used to ensure secure ship cargo stowage, this system guarantees perfect distribution of the force exerted on the cable. At the foot of the barrel fitted with two superimposed springs, designed to achieve optimal performance, the winding of the cable drives the 72-hour power reserve indication, while the "stop work" indication, placed on the fusee bridge, indicates the end of the barrel winding.
@@WatchAdvisor wonderful detailed explanation of the construction and design. But Alexander.just how accurate will it be over the course of say a month.
That's something they don't know yet, since I think they have only built some prototypes. But I assume something like +/- 1 - 3 seconds a day...
Perfect and Butifull : Then you will know the truth and the truth will set you free.”
That's the way it may happen...
Why does he take the microphone
Because Christophe is shy, he does not really speak English and normally he does not speak in front of a camera... So I think he wanted to hold on something... The guy is a genius, a watchmaker, not an anchorman ...
@@WatchAdvisor Thanks for the response!
After watching more I did end up appreciating this.
Price?
Syntha 84 I don’t know 🤷🏻♂️ I have to ask...
😍😍😍💘💘💘👍👍👍
You seem to like the watch!
What can you say les français font tout mieux 🇫🇷🍷🧀🍷🧀🇫🇷
Michael Bounds Vivent les Français 🇫🇷 , vivent les Suisses🇨🇭et tous qui savent réaliser telles choses...