The reason for the flux not stopping after the plunger is released is the air inside the syringe trapped above the flux. By pressing the plunger you compress the air and that's what's pushing the liquid out. You release the pressure on the plunger, and the air inside decompresses, but not completely, as it can't move the plunger any more to an equilibrium due to friction. The remaining air pressure pushes the liquid out until the pressure equalizes. The same thing happens with CA glue, ointments and other stuff in metal tubes - the remaining pressure is not enough to spring the metal back to equalize the pressure. By drawing the plunger back you actually introduce more air into the syringe making the problem even worse. What you should do instead is to store the tube vertically for some time, until all the liquid migrates to the bottom (towards the plunger), and then push the plunger until all the air (with some remaining liquid) is gone and the liquid starts to come out. In some cases there could be a stable dispersion of air formed in the liquid itself. That could be dealt with using some heat (to decrease the viscosity and release the bubbles) or with a vacuum pump which will expand the bubbles and increase theirs buoyancy.
Omg thank you for such an insightful comment - I’ve tried what guy said, and it works! I also reached out to the company, and they’ve changed the plunger to be just like Amtech now
Hi Harry , you make amazing content .Short , concise ,straight to the point.Too bad this flux is not available in Europe , and on Aliexpress the shipping is more than the product . Would you consider doing a video or recommend good budget equipment for beginners ? I saw the Yihua 959D recommendation , i really liked it , but what about the other essential tools , like multimeter , soldering iron , more types of flux(aliexpress) , soldering wire ? There are a lot of beginners wanting to buy equipment and so many bad and lengthy videos around for bad products...
For our repair shop, there are different things which count: - Non-conductivity - Viscosity (especially with heat) - easy cleaning - health risks So your test might not be representative for all people.
Great point - this is absolutely true. The TCRS flux definately meets your criteria: - Non-conductivity: ruclips.net/video/GSj3aUOE5CU/видео.html at 55 minutes, you can see both Amtech and TCRS have extremely low conductivity. - Viscosity: There's both the pro (liquid for CPUs etc) and regular (thicker) - so you can find which viscosity suits your needs. - Both clean extremely easily, one cotton ball and alcohol is enough to clean flux used on a BGA area on a board. - Health risks are addressed in the safety data sheet here: www.tcrscircuit.com/sds Thank you for bringing this up, hope this helps.
@@anonamemous6865 Ugain is usually harder to clean U gain is more conductive - but the little conductivity difference won’t be a problem Ugain does not have a health sheet I could find - so if that’s a priority, TCRS is much better documented
But what about the important characteristic of the flux: The cleaning process.. A no-clean flux assually make a mess and leave all dirty. Other flux need to be cleaned because they oxide copper. So what about this two regarding this spec.
Thank you so much! It's kind words like these which keep me going - I'm uploading a video on huge changes to the repair economy on February 1st, maybe you'd be interested!
Nice comparison video. Though I personally just use whatever I can get for cheap at my local brick and mortar store. I mostly do just simple repairs for friends and family and the cheap stuff is even enough for the bit of microsoldering I do...
You don't just buy weird tins of brown hard cake from Poland for 1€ and dissolve them in isopropyl alcohol? Got it from Sorin at "Electronics Repair School". It does have some advantages, but overall i can't decide whether i love or hate it, certainly both sort of. Also i never understood why Amtech, it's not like other big ones like MG and Kester and Chipquick don't make decent flux? And then half the people end up buying fake Amtech which is just... well the outcome predictably varies.
Brown hard cake (maybe you mean rosin), very interesting. Amtech became famous because of its long-term resilience to oxidation, but the fake flux problem is what deters many people.
@@HarryKwastaken Even that in those tins isn't pine rosin as-is. It's somewhat distilled and activated, so it is a real electronics flux, it's just fully concentrated down to a solid with no solvent left.
@@HarryKwastaken I don't have one of those evaporator heads yet, but i do suspect that it can be evaporated just like raw tree rosin. It is fumey but not terribly so, and it doesn't smell burned easily. Most stores here sell Bienenwohl Löthonig for some reason and that's just bad, stinky and smokey, i don't even know why it still exists. TBH i usually use NC-559-ASM-UV clone flux.
hey so im looking to replace the 5g antenna on my iphone 13 pro and the youtube video says to use flux is it a certain kind of flux i need to use or no because i have oatey no.95 lead free tinning flux is this right or no?
@@xaviermacaluso If it’s the one that connects to the underside of the motherboard, it doesn’t need any special flux. As long as the flex cable connects to all the dot-like connections, there will be no problem
Haha, I wish that was true! I actually wasn’t payed for this video, and bought 2 tubes with my own money - and if I was paid, I’d have to disclose it legally. TCRS have been really cool tho
@@HarryKwastaken Sure. That was a joke. Honestly most of repair workers browse through heaps of cheap aliexperss bs hoping to find good flux. All the branded gear is cool of course and works magic but hella expensive. I myself was always using IPA rosin solution for bga and 559 for other stuff.
Great job, Harry. Also your editing, made the video so engaging to watch. Were wondering if we could do something fun together in the future. Any chance can us reach u out:D
Right on! I haven't noticed much of a difference in how the solder flows in both - but mainly how long it can keep solder flowing. Some cheap rosin sucks at making solder flow, but these 2 are good enough for something like HDMI ports etc with small pins....
Choosing soldering fluxes that you use for hi-freq microelectronics by only smell and flow is like choosing car only by color of interior. Google for "surface insulation resistance test" and then ask yourself: why Ersa, Martin or EFD FluxPlus costs FROM 20USD and up? ruclips.net/video/UCemeyS7EVw/видео.html
The same reasoning can applied to why a Lamborghini cost a million quid and a Ford escort 20 Grand, in spite of the obvious differences most are forced to get the Ford Escort the key word being *budget*
The reason for the flux not stopping after the plunger is released is the air inside the syringe trapped above the flux. By pressing the plunger you compress the air and that's what's pushing the liquid out. You release the pressure on the plunger, and the air inside decompresses, but not completely, as it can't move the plunger any more to an equilibrium due to friction. The remaining air pressure pushes the liquid out until the pressure equalizes. The same thing happens with CA glue, ointments and other stuff in metal tubes - the remaining pressure is not enough to spring the metal back to equalize the pressure.
By drawing the plunger back you actually introduce more air into the syringe making the problem even worse.
What you should do instead is to store the tube vertically for some time, until all the liquid migrates to the bottom (towards the plunger), and then push the plunger until all the air (with some remaining liquid) is gone and the liquid starts to come out.
In some cases there could be a stable dispersion of air formed in the liquid itself. That could be dealt with using some heat (to decrease the viscosity and release the bubbles) or with a vacuum pump which will expand the bubbles and increase theirs buoyancy.
Omg thank you for such an insightful comment - I’ve tried what guy said, and it works! I also reached out to the company, and they’ve changed the plunger to be just like Amtech now
Thanks mate !
Informative, well edited, and overall great video! Keep it up!
Hi Harry , you make amazing content .Short , concise ,straight to the point.Too bad this flux is not available in Europe , and on Aliexpress the shipping is more than the product .
Would you consider doing a video or recommend good budget equipment for beginners ? I saw the Yihua 959D recommendation , i really liked it , but what about the other essential tools , like multimeter , soldering iron , more types of flux(aliexpress) , soldering wire ?
There are a lot of beginners wanting to buy equipment and so many bad and lengthy videos around for bad products...
For our repair shop, there are different things which count:
- Non-conductivity
- Viscosity (especially with heat)
- easy cleaning
- health risks
So your test might not be representative for all people.
Great point - this is absolutely true. The TCRS flux definately meets your criteria:
- Non-conductivity: ruclips.net/video/GSj3aUOE5CU/видео.html at 55 minutes, you can see both Amtech and TCRS have extremely low conductivity.
- Viscosity: There's both the pro (liquid for CPUs etc) and regular (thicker) - so you can find which viscosity suits your needs.
- Both clean extremely easily, one cotton ball and alcohol is enough to clean flux used on a BGA area on a board.
- Health risks are addressed in the safety data sheet here: www.tcrscircuit.com/sds
Thank you for bringing this up, hope this helps.
@@HarryKwastaken Wow - thank you :)
@@HarryKwastaken Bro why are you talking about tcrs but not ugain? I wanna about ugain in those criteria
@@anonamemous6865
Ugain is usually harder to clean
U gain is more conductive - but the little conductivity difference won’t be a problem
Ugain does not have a health sheet I could find - so if that’s a priority, TCRS is much better documented
After 1 year Finally! i thought you're uhm . . anyways, smooth video, definitely true about the UGain Flux, been my day to day flux 👌🏻
Exactly! And yes, I was uhm . . Hibernating.
But what about the important characteristic of the flux: The cleaning process.. A no-clean flux assually make a mess and leave all dirty. Other flux need to be cleaned because they oxide copper. So what about this two regarding this spec.
Bro you need to make more videos!! Looking forward on Budget vs Hakko Weller comparisons
Thank you so much! It's kind words like these which keep me going - I'm uploading a video on huge changes to the repair economy on February 1st, maybe you'd be interested!
Eevblog did a very detailed budget Hakko/Weller comparison.
Such an amazing summary !
Nice comparison video. Though I personally just use whatever I can get for cheap at my local brick and mortar store. I mostly do just simple repairs for friends and family and the cheap stuff is even enough for the bit of microsoldering I do...
Yeah, absolutely. If it works for you, then it’s fine.
Great editing, love your videos
Thank you! I appreciate your time
You just missed something really import - the ease of cleaning the residue
I’ve tested both, and cleaning is super easy - like one swipe with cotton and alcohol cleans most. Thank you for pointing that out
You don't just buy weird tins of brown hard cake from Poland for 1€ and dissolve them in isopropyl alcohol? Got it from Sorin at "Electronics Repair School". It does have some advantages, but overall i can't decide whether i love or hate it, certainly both sort of.
Also i never understood why Amtech, it's not like other big ones like MG and Kester and Chipquick don't make decent flux? And then half the people end up buying fake Amtech which is just... well the outcome predictably varies.
Brown hard cake (maybe you mean rosin), very interesting. Amtech became famous because of its long-term resilience to oxidation, but the fake flux problem is what deters many people.
@@HarryKwastaken Even that in those tins isn't pine rosin as-is. It's somewhat distilled and activated, so it is a real electronics flux, it's just fully concentrated down to a solid with no solvent left.
Does it create a lot of fumes? and can you use it in like a rosin pen to find shorts?
@@HarryKwastaken I don't have one of those evaporator heads yet, but i do suspect that it can be evaporated just like raw tree rosin. It is fumey but not terribly so, and it doesn't smell burned easily. Most stores here sell Bienenwohl Löthonig for some reason and that's just bad, stinky and smokey, i don't even know why it still exists.
TBH i usually use NC-559-ASM-UV clone flux.
Here in down under, we do not 'sodder', we 'solder' :P
hey so im looking to replace the 5g antenna on my iphone 13 pro and the youtube video says to use flux is it a certain kind of flux i need to use or no because i have oatey no.95 lead free tinning flux is this right or no?
@@xaviermacaluso If it’s the one that connects to the underside of the motherboard, it doesn’t need any special flux. As long as the flex cable connects to all the dot-like connections, there will be no problem
In one of the sequences, you'll see the process of soldering an apple watch flex cable!
TCRS is the best of the best. The sponsor is TCRS... 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Haha, I wish that was true! I actually wasn’t payed for this video, and bought 2 tubes with my own money - and if I was paid, I’d have to disclose it legally. TCRS have been really cool tho
@@HarryKwastaken Sure. That was a joke. Honestly most of repair workers browse through heaps of cheap aliexperss bs hoping to find good flux. All the branded gear is cool of course and works magic but hella expensive. I myself was always using IPA rosin solution for bga and 559 for other stuff.
@@HarryKwastaken Can you do a video on solder. Rubicon,Ichiban,,tamagawa,relife, etc. I wanna know which is the best shiny and easy melt
@@anonamemous6865 Bro Kester is the greatest - I’ve never seen any solder as incredible.
I’ve been using their 63/37 alloy for 2 years now
Great job, Harry. Also your editing, made the video so engaging to watch. Were wondering if we could do something fun together in the future. Any chance can us reach u out:D
Thanks man! I'd love to talk, you can reach me at passionhdwastaken@gmail.com anytime.
You definitely need to make more videos
Just wait a little longer - by the end of the month, there will be some huge changes to the channel
What about SD360?
now compare solder flow !
Right on! I haven't noticed much of a difference in how the solder flows in both - but mainly how long it can keep solder flowing. Some cheap rosin sucks at making solder flow, but these 2 are good enough for something like HDMI ports etc with small pins....
Choosing soldering fluxes that you use for hi-freq microelectronics by only smell and flow is like choosing car only by color of interior. Google for "surface insulation resistance test" and then ask yourself: why Ersa, Martin or EFD FluxPlus costs FROM 20USD and up? ruclips.net/video/UCemeyS7EVw/видео.html
The same reasoning can applied to why a Lamborghini cost a million quid and a Ford escort 20 Grand, in spite of the obvious differences most are forced to get the Ford Escort the key word being *budget*
Out of stock. :(