Thanks for taking the time to make these videos and spread this knowledge. Ive never met anyone else who practices bonsai so all my knowledge comes from guys like you on RUclips and Google
Rooting hormone belongs 100% onto the upper cut/bark. Below the upper cut it's useless as roots will come from within a few centimeters *above* the upper cut. Long-fiber spagmoss (compared to the fine particles you showcased) is easier to apply and more stable when opening the air layer (less danger of falling apart when repotting later). I prefer living spagmoss as it keeps growing and filling gaps (if any). Plus moss ball does not degrade as fast which increases chances of air layering in case it takes longer.
When I wrap the air layering, I try to lay the branch down at an angle (move the pot) so it's easier. This really is a two person job, IMHO. I've probably done 25 air layers on assorted things here in the last week, Podocarpus Yews, Eonymous.
Glad to see u back! I miss the tree critiques. Bring em back ! I tried this on osakazuki and failed and also sango kaku and failed but i did get a kojo no mai to root fairly well. I used those black plastic air layering balls they sell online and they work great. Less fussing around and reuseable. Now what do i do approaching winter here in n.y. should i cut the air layer off and try again or just leave it alone and re moss it next spring?
For conifers like junipers, does it still apply to do it after the budding season or before? Or should I do it in late winter/early spring In NYC we get a normal weather cycle so warm springs, hot summers, cool autumns, and cold winters so I don’t know if I should even try air layering on junipers…
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos and spread this knowledge. Ive never met anyone else who practices bonsai so all my knowledge comes from guys like you on RUclips and Google
Rooting hormone belongs 100% onto the upper cut/bark. Below the upper cut it's useless as roots will come from within a few centimeters *above* the upper cut.
Long-fiber spagmoss (compared to the fine particles you showcased) is easier to apply and more stable when opening the air layer (less danger of falling apart when repotting later).
I prefer living spagmoss as it keeps growing and filling gaps (if any). Plus moss ball does not degrade as fast which increases chances of air layering in case it takes longer.
When I wrap the air layering, I try to lay the branch down at an angle (move the pot) so it's easier. This really is a two person job, IMHO. I've probably done 25 air layers on assorted things here in the last week, Podocarpus Yews, Eonymous.
Another informative video, glad to see you back Josh!
Glad your back
Glad to see u back! I miss the tree critiques. Bring em back ! I tried this on osakazuki and failed and also sango kaku and failed but i did get a kojo no mai to root fairly well. I used those black plastic air layering balls they sell online and they work great. Less fussing around and reuseable. Now what do i do approaching winter here in n.y. should i cut the air layer off and try again or just leave it alone and re moss it next spring?
I agree, bring back the tree critiques!
Hay Josh will you or a representative of Bonsai-En be at the Newcastle Bonsai Society show this weekend? 11th 12th 13th November?
We certainly will be! Come and say hi.
@@BonsaiEn will do
For conifers like junipers, does it still apply to do it after the budding season or before?
Or should I do it in late winter/early spring
In NYC we get a normal weather cycle so warm springs, hot summers, cool autumns, and cold winters so I don’t know if I should even try air layering on junipers…
You can air layer junipers for most of the year. From February to September
👍👌🙂
They guy with the squashed ears ;)
You should use air layer pods. Easier than plastic wrap