Very nice guys. That metal mesh stuff in the bottom of the new one looks a lot like what they used to use in the old oil bath air filters which makes perfect sense as it served much the same purpose.
You guys (racers) continuing to innovate High Quality parts is why I'm a huge fan (and have said before), I use and recommend your RIFE Sensors to all of my friends and tunes...
I have a street driven 427 BBC @ 500rw (NA) with Holley Stealth fuel injection (HP not Terminator) cutting out the smell would be great. Would the new style benefit me? My oil smell is moderate. I have definitely had more smell with looser engines.
I think we need a better explanation of how that fresh air tube works, or I am just missing something obvious. I can see how it could work at high vacuum levels (more pull post throttle blade than pre throttle blade), but what stops it from becoming a feed from the valve cover to the intake when manifold vacuum is low, such as WOT, which would be when crank case pressure is the highest and intake vacuum (pre throttle blade) would be the highest? Is there a check valve fitting for the fresh air tube?
I got a 200 000 mile 4.8 with self clearanced rings, an ali bingbong turbo, 30 pounds on scramble and no blow off valve. You make these in Herby Kurby size?
Wont the fresh air line from the one valve cover to the intake tube flow backwards when pan vac is high? Aka push air / oil out of that valve cover into the intake?
The clean feed side is in front of the TB and the dirty side is behind the TB which should have a pressure differential vaccume vs atmosphere doing a one way flush inside the crankcase. When it goes wot im guessing on NA, blowby from the rings has more pressure than atmosphere and blows shit out of every hose. I wonder if the clean air side should have an additional 1 way valve in it to prevent oil in the intake at wot
I know this seems large but IMO (racing bikes since the 1970s) I've seen bikes (owners) that need this much volume in order to not overflow (or at least keep the filter dry), if/when they overfill with oil (or if/when a piston, cylinder gets hurt)...
I’m building a 65 impala I’m gonna ls swap it and eventually put a turbo on it, mostly gonna be a street machine, might see a drag strip every once and a while, which catch can should I use
hi many 4cyl gas use 7/16--1/2 inch pipe work modern 4-6cyl Turbo direct inj diesel use 5/8--1inch pipe work Its very important to connect both valve covers to CC as u have said . Restrictive c/cans do blow gaskets /seals . A blown rear main sseal is evident of that . 60,000 miles on my truck
Isn’t hooking only one of the LS valve covers to the catch can and the other to the intake counterproductive? So one valve cover is getting filters and separated by the catch can but the other is just getting dirty oily crankcase air straight into the intake tube?
@ gotta be honest, little confused as I thought both valve covers push crankcase pressure which usually has moisture and oil mixed in, which you’re putting into the intake tract that we usually have a catch can plumbed inbetween. Like your other catch can model, both heads go to each port on the catch can
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](/img/1.gif)
Very nice guys. That metal mesh stuff in the bottom of the new one looks a lot like what they used to use in the old oil bath air filters which makes perfect sense as it served much the same purpose.
You guys (racers) continuing to innovate High Quality parts is why I'm a huge fan (and have said before), I use and recommend your RIFE Sensors to all of my friends and tunes...
I have a street driven 427 BBC @ 500rw (NA) with Holley Stealth fuel injection (HP not Terminator) cutting out the smell would be great. Would the new style benefit me? My oil smell is moderate. I have definitely had more smell with looser engines.
We have a customer who tested this can our on a combo very similar and loved the results!
Would you run a one-way valve out the crank fitting to prevent anything from going back in?
I think we need a better explanation of how that fresh air tube works, or I am just missing something obvious. I can see how it could work at high vacuum levels (more pull post throttle blade than pre throttle blade), but what stops it from becoming a feed from the valve cover to the intake when manifold vacuum is low, such as WOT, which would be when crank case pressure is the highest and intake vacuum (pre throttle blade) would be the highest?
Is there a check valve fitting for the fresh air tube?
Great video!
I have a 2018 Camaro SS 6.2 Litre stock engine. What catch can configuration do you recommend that I install ??
I got a 200 000 mile 4.8 with self clearanced rings, an ali bingbong turbo, 30 pounds on scramble and no blow off valve. You make these in Herby Kurby size?
Nice video lots of info thank you .
Looking into a catch can for a 2.5L single turbo Kia stinger. Any ideas?
Wont the fresh air line from the one valve cover to the intake tube flow backwards when pan vac is high? Aka push air / oil out of that valve cover into the intake?
The clean feed side is in front of the TB and the dirty side is behind the TB which should have a pressure differential vaccume vs atmosphere doing a one way flush inside the crankcase. When it goes wot im guessing on NA, blowby from the rings has more pressure than atmosphere and blows shit out of every hose. I wonder if the clean air side should have an additional 1 way valve in it to prevent oil in the intake at wot
@slick408 yeah seems like it needs a check valve for sure on a boosted car with lots of crank case pressure
I was hoping you were coming out with something like this!!
Can you add this video to your tech tip Tuesday Playlist?
We need a catch can that will fit on a motorcycle.
I know this seems large but IMO (racing bikes since the 1970s) I've seen bikes (owners) that need this much volume in order to not overflow (or at least keep the filter dry), if/when they overfill with oil (or if/when a piston, cylinder gets hurt)...
I’m building a 65 impala I’m gonna ls swap it and eventually put a turbo on it, mostly gonna be a street machine, might see a drag strip every once and a while, which catch can should I use
hi many 4cyl gas use 7/16--1/2 inch pipe work
modern 4-6cyl Turbo direct inj diesel use 5/8--1inch pipe work
Its very important to connect both valve covers to CC as u have said .
Restrictive c/cans do blow gaskets /seals . A blown rear main sseal is evident of that . 60,000 miles on my truck
Could this be use on a 408w with a box R intake?
Do you have to empty the can every so often or do you plumb the can back to the oil pan some how?
There is a 1/4” npt female on the bottom of the can. Could definitely connect a drain back from that if you wish
@motionraceworksofficial thank you!
Isn’t hooking only one of the LS valve covers to the catch can and the other to the intake counterproductive? So one valve cover is getting filters and separated by the catch can but the other is just getting dirty oily crankcase air straight into the intake tube?
No, there is vacuum behind it so it’s a draw thru. That’s how systems like this are plumbed
@ gotta be honest, little confused as I thought both valve covers push crankcase pressure which usually has moisture and oil mixed in, which you’re putting into the intake tract that we usually have a catch can plumbed inbetween. Like your other catch can model, both heads go to each port on the catch can
Awesome. I'm guessing the 2 stage would be the one for a small block Chevy 600hp N/A carburated drag and drive street car?
Maybe im confused but having a " fresh air " line from the intake to the valve cover be sucking the fumes from the VC to the engine?
fresh air line goes to intake before the throttle so not under vacuum which is fresh air intake to the crankcase
Great information. Thank you.
Thanks for the info..
Engines will last longer with PCV also so its a win win!
Will motion dip it’s toe into the intake manifold world for the more common engines?
First!!