My first real job was as a lackey for a group of engineers, and part of it involved scanning and copying their blue-lines (large technical drawings). They gave me the (unofficial) job title of "reprographic technologist." It's one of the best I've ever heard, and it's yours if you want it.
Thanks, I appreciate any video of someone sharing their ideas and methods, knowing that there are a million ways to do something. You have spurred many ideas in my head. Thank you.
This is a great option. I also broke down and got a spiral binding hole punch machine - obviously an option that takes more specialized equipment, but I like being able to fold the pages back, which the spiral allows easily.
Being able to lay the book fully flat is a great feature, especially for books that have game boards printed in them (I'm thinking of Mike Lambo's solo wargame books). And then yeah, as someone with a small table, being able to halve the space ones books take up is a huge draw. Honestly, I'm going to have to add a spiral punch to my little operation at some point. Thanks!
I buy quality in bulk. I use a large ink-tank printer rather than high-cost-frequent-change little printers (which used to frustrate me to no end - I would start printing a luxurious color map or cover and it would fade out halfway through). I print interiors on good multipurpose paper (at least 24 pound/68 gsm rather than cheap 20#/75 gsm). Might as well buy a big roll of top rate tape. Or rather, quality tape - on the higher ends, extreme price is not necessary. If its throwaway, cheap is okay. If it is keep-it-for-archive, don't cheap-it-to-tatters. What I really love for print-it-yourself is how I can custom print things like maps. I like to take old D&D maps like those for B2 Keep-On-The-Borderland and print them with the equivalent of 2-inch squares to walk minis through in solo romps. Using a "blind" page (a page with a hole that restricts vision to what PCs are supposed to see) and loose pages to slide around as the map is exposed. Almost as fun as when the playing group started off drawing maps with grease pencils on 1-inch grid plexiglass.
I hadn't even thought of using book tape until it being mentioned in a couple of comments. It's definitely one of the upgrades I'm likely to perform on my process. Thanks for the info!
Thank you for the suggestion! I hadn't thought about how eventually, the duct tape will probably get sticky. From another commenter, I had been looking at book binding tape. The only issue there is that even two inch tape wouldn't be enough to cover both clips in one go. I was thinking 1" over the clips and then a 2" over the spine, but I see they make 3" gaffer tape. I think I'll get some to try it
haha it's just that in this video I realized it up front rather than at the end when I've been blathering for an hour plus and I think to myself, you know, you really talk like someone wants to hear this Thanks!
Was just reminded I dropped two printed out rule books during a move and haven’t had the heart to try to piece them back together properly yet 😭😭😭😭 but this is great motivation keep up the great content
Well, that is a really great idea for binding a PDF. Using duct tape is a rather ingenious way of adding some strength to the binding as well as making it more appealing. I'd add a title to the spine with a white gel pen (Too many self-bound books on the shelf) - Hahahah - OK, or use a label maker. I've also been very successful making my own perfect-bound books by glueing the spine with multiple applications of PVA (I use Aileene's Tacky Glue) and then make a paper cover for the spine. On thicker books I use bookbinding cloth to cover the spine first. I do like the idea of using paper fasteners with three-hole paper as on thicker books it could add some extra security to my perfect-bound method. Then I make a cover. For the cover, If I want to use a stock cover but need to add my own title or other comments, I make a word document with the cover or art and add word art for anything extra. It makes for a very neat and more professional appearance. I dislike my sloppy printing, even if it might be acceptable. Thanks for all the advice in this video. OK, can't keep my fingers from tapping keys. Heh! When I have tables I need to access multiple times, I use printable self-adhesive tabs to mark those pages. The same can be used if you have multiple books bound together for ease in finding same. Really good and useful video. I also play many board games and have a rather large collection, too, more than for which I actually have space. I also like many solo Print & Play games and for those that I actually play, I make a box and print out the rules and all maps or other player aids.
@@JAlanRykerGames Naw...yours is very inventive and works for what you need. I've had many hobbies over the decades I've roamed this earth. All required preserving information. At one time, for Warhammer RPG, I used three ring binders and page protectors to make that tome useful. That's also when I began using self-adhesive tabs. It was fairly recent I discovered a bookbinding RUclips channel and tried their method for perfect binding. Also, I have a printer that will accept fairly stiff card so I can print covers.
@@jamessullivan5168 the ability to print on heavy cardstock is definitely a must for my next printer. I'm getting inspired by the info in comments like yours to look a bit more into binding
Add pages later by inserting the prong fastener from front to back. Then you can undo the backside without disturbing the clean look of the front. This could also be used to place two or more books, or errata, into the back pages. Also, write on the spine by folding a piece of heavier paper or (even leather!) into a "U" shape and slip it over the spine after straightening out the page stack, but before you insert the prong fastener. This has really triggered mu arts and crafts brain sensors. lol Thank you for the video.
haha omg clipping it the other way is such a good idea it's one of those that you hear and can't believe you didn't think of it yourself! Thanks! I plan to do a follow up video with ideas I've gotten in the comments, and this is top of the list
@@JAlanRykerGames Excellent! I look forward to it. Another idea to simply dress up the spine is to place a few layers of tape in thin bands along the top, bottom, and in a couple of central locations before adding tape to the spine. This simulates the raised cords wrapped under real books and will break up the flat look of all the other books on your shelf. Of course, you might use other colors of tape too? Almost forgot to mention, you should consider adding a piece of transparent plastic as the cover to any books with a vulnerable, open first page. Thank again.
Wonderful idea! All my books are on my tablet, but that makes it a chore to have multiple open at once or to quickly flip between specific pages. One question, how to print so many pages cheaply?
yeah, see, and that's what I realized when I was editing that I wished I'd said. while the process itself is cheap, you have to own a laser printer. As a writer, I've had one forever and so take it for granted. And I specifically looked for the one with a nice cheap cost per page. It depends on how much you will save on buying physical books that determines if it's a worthwhile investment.
I do the PDF thing also, lots of printing but I put them in three ring binders which have taken up a ton more space than this would have over the years. Thinking this works perfectly for me. Appreciate you sharing. Edit: Three ring binders can be had for about $1 or less each at thrift stores. But do take up more space.
Binders are a really good option for when you need something to lay flat (these lay open very well because of how brutally you can fold them, but I wouldn't describe it as flat, like you might need if a book had a game surface in it). I hadn't thought of $1 stores. I'm going to grab a few for sure!
Thank you for the how-to and ramblings! I totally agree with buying PDFs and then printing what you need. My board games already take up way too much space. It's also a much cheaper way to fulfill the addiction of buying more. Question about your printer option: what program do you use for your PDFs because I don't think I've seen all of those on my computer?
Thanks for the kind words! I use foxit pdf. I think the free version gives a bit more control than other free versions of pdf software. Like the textboxes and drawing capabilities. I really like textboxes for whiting out toner-heavy areas. As far as printer options, though, I think most standalone pdf programs will give you access to that true, windows print screen (that's the modal with the printer options. it's base windows). Chrome doesn't let you access it easily, trying to make it simple and in doing so taking away most of your control. Other browsers might, too. But in Chrome at least (not sure about others) you can go to their simplified print screen, then click "Print using system dialog..." This will pop up a windows print modal. Then click "Preferences" to get the advanced options that you saw in the video. Hope that helps!
Thank you, this looks like a very fast and reasonably attractive way to bind books. I've kind of given up on getting hard copies at the moment because of shipping costs. I would really want a way to make the spines quickly recognizable. I suspect that printing something on a label or on paper then glued to the spine with flexible glue, and then covered by wide transparent tape should do the trick.
So what I just added to my little cheapo arsenal after already having made this video is a roll of white duct tape to write on in sharpie. Your potential method does sound significantly more attractive, though!
@@JAlanRykerGames That does sound like the quick way to do it, but my handwriting is awful. I found out that there's a transparent Gorilla tape, so I'll probably print a spine label and Gorilla tape that down.
I really enjoyed my years as a document scanner. I did it twice. I used to listen to books and plot out my novels, and having something to do with my hands was almost hypnotic. Honestly, I sometimes miss it
i would be down for a job like that. i didnt realize comb binding was so easy. thinking about picking up a machine now instead of waiting for a print shop for all the pdfs i have
I have never in my life seen those super brads! I've been printing my books using the "booklet" print setting and stapling the spine. This is great up to about 40 pages, then it is just too big. That's when I have a tablet for my books, which I don't particularly like. With my new knowledge of super brads I'll be unstoppable! Mwahahaha!
Again, I don't mean to brag, but I was a professional document scanner, so... Hey, thanks so much for regularly commenting. It's gotten so quiet around here
@@JAlanRykerGames Oh, I would absolutely brag about that! If it was me, I'd work it into a pickup line. Thank you for your wonderful content! Your channel has been following my recent gaming trends, and us solo gamers are always trying to find people to talk to about games.
I personally 3 hole punch and keep them in a new trapper keeper and just swap out books as needed, the other stuff is in envelopes waiting their turn again, which almost never happens. right now I have 4 pages of my own oracle, UNE and Microlite D20 (Purist Essence)
Amazing how your comment took me to the next level… I don’t need a ton of nice 3 Ring binders for every pdf I buy and print. I can just have a nice storage solution for the printed pdfs, and then when I want to play them, I can simply swap them out into my very nice and favorite 3-Ring binder. I get that a near permanent binding feels/looks good but in the little bit of RPG playing I’ve done, the books are like auto mechanic work books and need to be easily passed around and thumbed through and be able to pull out references and ref rolling tables…. And shared with a couple copies around the table.
You know, I might drop your method in a video (and credit you, of course). I never considered doing this your way, because it's very outside of our normal thinking. But in board games, I have spoken before about how much I've been turning towards these solo skirmish games where you buy only the rules, then bring your own materials and reuse them between multiple games. With as expensive as everything is getting, and how much it costs to freight all these redundant components in from China, it just seems like the only way some of us won't get priced out of our hobbies is to reuse components and dial back the luxury obsession. Anyway, thanks so much for taking the time to share your method
hey, never apologize for early commenting! I always appreciate a comment. I have a cyberpunk mini skirmish game called Kuroi that I think will come first, but I think Forbidden Lands will come after that. So stay tuned!
I used to print the covers, but I don't have much of this discontinued card stock that is flexible enough to go through my printer. I have a bunch of this heavier stock that won't
My oldest are 4AD and only a few years old, and haven't gotten stick, probably though due to infrequent use. I had encountered book tape in my previous job (much more often removing it than adding it) but had totally forgotten about it. Thanks, I'm going to look into getting some!
My first real job was as a lackey for a group of engineers, and part of it involved scanning and copying their blue-lines (large technical drawings). They gave me the (unofficial) job title of "reprographic technologist." It's one of the best I've ever heard, and it's yours if you want it.
Oh shoot, that's a seriously good title! Definitely taken. From one professional reprographic technologist to another, thank you
@@JAlanRykerGames 👍🏽
Thanks, I appreciate any video of someone sharing their ideas and methods, knowing that there are a million ways to do something. You have spurred many ideas in my head. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind comment!
Man I've been buying those clear cover folders with the prongs in them like a rube! :P Never heard of acco clips but immediately buying some.
Listen, we're all rubes and suckers to the report folder industrial complex. Have grace for yourself 🤗
This is a great option. I also broke down and got a spiral binding hole punch machine - obviously an option that takes more specialized equipment, but I like being able to fold the pages back, which the spiral allows easily.
Being able to lay the book fully flat is a great feature, especially for books that have game boards printed in them (I'm thinking of Mike Lambo's solo wargame books). And then yeah, as someone with a small table, being able to halve the space ones books take up is a huge draw.
Honestly, I'm going to have to add a spiral punch to my little operation at some point. Thanks!
I buy quality in bulk. I use a large ink-tank printer rather than high-cost-frequent-change little printers (which used to frustrate me to no end - I would start printing a luxurious color map or cover and it would fade out halfway through). I print interiors on good multipurpose paper (at least 24 pound/68 gsm rather than cheap 20#/75 gsm). Might as well buy a big roll of top rate tape. Or rather, quality tape - on the higher ends, extreme price is not necessary. If its throwaway, cheap is okay. If it is keep-it-for-archive, don't cheap-it-to-tatters.
What I really love for print-it-yourself is how I can custom print things like maps. I like to take old D&D maps like those for B2 Keep-On-The-Borderland and print them with the equivalent of 2-inch squares to walk minis through in solo romps. Using a "blind" page (a page with a hole that restricts vision to what PCs are supposed to see) and loose pages to slide around as the map is exposed. Almost as fun as when the playing group started off drawing maps with grease pencils on 1-inch grid plexiglass.
I hadn't even thought of using book tape until it being mentioned in a couple of comments. It's definitely one of the upgrades I'm likely to perform on my process. Thanks for the info!
Greatly appreciate this video! Was just thinking of printing off some PDF’s but didn’t know how to bind them and this might be the way I go. Thanks!
I'm glad it was helpful!
You could elevate the look and feel and durability using gaff tape instead of duct, for anyone looking for the next step.
Thank you for the suggestion! I hadn't thought about how eventually, the duct tape will probably get sticky.
From another commenter, I had been looking at book binding tape. The only issue there is that even two inch tape wouldn't be enough to cover both clips in one go. I was thinking 1" over the clips and then a 2" over the spine, but I see they make 3" gaffer tape. I think I'll get some to try it
"a video noone requested". Liked and subbed right there 👍
haha it's just that in this video I realized it up front rather than at the end when I've been blathering for an hour plus and I think to myself, you know, you really talk like someone wants to hear this
Thanks!
+20 wisdom for using the word waffling!
😂
Was just reminded I dropped two printed out rule books during a move and haven’t had the heart to try to piece them back together properly yet 😭😭😭😭 but this is great motivation keep up the great content
Dropping loose materials is the nightmare scenario!
Thanks!
This is such a great video idea. Thank you for making this reference.
Thank you very much for stopping to leave such a nice comment!
I've gotten comments with some good ideas I want to try, so look out for an update.
Cool new solo speedrun tech unlocked 😮
Well, that is a really great idea for binding a PDF. Using duct tape is a rather ingenious way of adding some strength to the binding as well as making it more appealing. I'd add a title to the spine with a white gel pen (Too many self-bound books on the shelf) - Hahahah - OK, or use a label maker. I've also been very successful making my own perfect-bound books by glueing the spine with multiple applications of PVA (I use Aileene's Tacky Glue) and then make a paper cover for the spine. On thicker books I use bookbinding cloth to cover the spine first. I do like the idea of using paper fasteners with three-hole paper as on thicker books it could add some extra security to my perfect-bound method. Then I make a cover.
For the cover, If I want to use a stock cover but need to add my own title or other comments, I make a word document with the cover or art and add word art for anything extra. It makes for a very neat and more professional appearance. I dislike my sloppy printing, even if it might be acceptable. Thanks for all the advice in this video.
OK, can't keep my fingers from tapping keys. Heh! When I have tables I need to access multiple times, I use printable self-adhesive tabs to mark those pages. The same can be used if you have multiple books bound together for ease in finding same.
Really good and useful video. I also play many board games and have a rather large collection, too, more than for which I actually have space. I also like many solo Print & Play games and for those that I actually play, I make a box and print out the rules and all maps or other player aids.
It sounds like you have a much more advanced system than I do!
The gel pen for the spine is a great idea. I think I'm going to take it, thanks!
@@JAlanRykerGames Naw...yours is very inventive and works for what you need. I've had many hobbies over the decades I've roamed this earth. All required preserving information. At one time, for Warhammer RPG, I used three ring binders and page protectors to make that tome useful. That's also when I began using self-adhesive tabs. It was fairly recent I discovered a bookbinding RUclips channel and tried their method for perfect binding. Also, I have a printer that will accept fairly stiff card so I can print covers.
@@jamessullivan5168 the ability to print on heavy cardstock is definitely a must for my next printer. I'm getting inspired by the info in comments like yours to look a bit more into binding
Add pages later by inserting the prong fastener from front to back. Then you can undo the backside without disturbing the clean look of the front. This could also be used to place two or more books, or errata, into the back pages.
Also, write on the spine by folding a piece of heavier paper or (even leather!) into a "U" shape and slip it over the spine after straightening out the page stack, but before you insert the prong fastener.
This has really triggered mu arts and crafts brain sensors. lol Thank you for the video.
haha omg clipping it the other way is such a good idea it's one of those that you hear and can't believe you didn't think of it yourself! Thanks! I plan to do a follow up video with ideas I've gotten in the comments, and this is top of the list
@@JAlanRykerGames Excellent! I look forward to it. Another idea to simply dress up the spine is to place a few layers of tape in thin bands along the top, bottom, and in a couple of central locations before adding tape to the spine. This simulates the raised cords wrapped under real books and will break up the flat look of all the other books on your shelf. Of course, you might use other colors of tape too? Almost forgot to mention, you should consider adding a piece of transparent plastic as the cover to any books with a vulnerable, open first page. Thank again.
Wonderful idea! All my books are on my tablet, but that makes it a chore to have multiple open at once or to quickly flip between specific pages. One question, how to print so many pages cheaply?
yeah, see, and that's what I realized when I was editing that I wished I'd said. while the process itself is cheap, you have to own a laser printer. As a writer, I've had one forever and so take it for granted. And I specifically looked for the one with a nice cheap cost per page. It depends on how much you will save on buying physical books that determines if it's a worthwhile investment.
I do the PDF thing also, lots of printing but I put them in three ring binders which have taken up a ton more space than this would have over the years. Thinking this works perfectly for me. Appreciate you sharing. Edit: Three ring binders can be had for about $1 or less each at thrift stores. But do take up more space.
Binders are a really good option for when you need something to lay flat (these lay open very well because of how brutally you can fold them, but I wouldn't describe it as flat, like you might need if a book had a game surface in it). I hadn't thought of $1 stores. I'm going to grab a few for sure!
Thank you for the how-to and ramblings! I totally agree with buying PDFs and then printing what you need. My board games already take up way too much space. It's also a much cheaper way to fulfill the addiction of buying more. Question about your printer option: what program do you use for your PDFs because I don't think I've seen all of those on my computer?
Thanks for the kind words!
I use foxit pdf. I think the free version gives a bit more control than other free versions of pdf software. Like the textboxes and drawing capabilities. I really like textboxes for whiting out toner-heavy areas.
As far as printer options, though, I think most standalone pdf programs will give you access to that true, windows print screen (that's the modal with the printer options. it's base windows). Chrome doesn't let you access it easily, trying to make it simple and in doing so taking away most of your control. Other browsers might, too.
But in Chrome at least (not sure about others) you can go to their simplified print screen, then click "Print using system dialog..." This will pop up a windows print modal. Then click "Preferences" to get the advanced options that you saw in the video.
Hope that helps!
@JAlanRykerGames fantastic thank you!
Thank you, this looks like a very fast and reasonably attractive way to bind books. I've kind of given up on getting hard copies at the moment because of shipping costs. I would really want a way to make the spines quickly recognizable. I suspect that printing something on a label or on paper then glued to the spine with flexible glue, and then covered by wide transparent tape should do the trick.
A label maker would do the trick!
So what I just added to my little cheapo arsenal after already having made this video is a roll of white duct tape to write on in sharpie. Your potential method does sound significantly more attractive, though!
@@JAlanRykerGames That does sound like the quick way to do it, but my handwriting is awful. I found out that there's a transparent Gorilla tape, so I'll probably print a spine label and Gorilla tape that down.
thank you for sharing your professional expertise😉 regarding document scanning. it is a niche that's hard to find people for
I really enjoyed my years as a document scanner. I did it twice. I used to listen to books and plot out my novels, and having something to do with my hands was almost hypnotic. Honestly, I sometimes miss it
i would be down for a job like that. i didnt realize comb binding was so easy. thinking about picking up a machine now instead of waiting for a print shop for all the pdfs i have
I have never in my life seen those super brads! I've been printing my books using the "booklet" print setting and stapling the spine. This is great up to about 40 pages, then it is just too big. That's when I have a tablet for my books, which I don't particularly like. With my new knowledge of super brads I'll be unstoppable! Mwahahaha!
Again, I don't mean to brag, but I was a professional document scanner, so...
Hey, thanks so much for regularly commenting. It's gotten so quiet around here
@@JAlanRykerGames Oh, I would absolutely brag about that! If it was me, I'd work it into a pickup line. Thank you for your wonderful content! Your channel has been following my recent gaming trends, and us solo gamers are always trying to find people to talk to about games.
Thumbs Up for Weird Frontiers! The systems is a blast!
Nice! I'm glad I grabbed it then
Photocopy stores have hot glue binding machines. Costs a bit more, but looks great. Thanks however for sharing.
I personally 3 hole punch and keep them in a new trapper keeper and just swap out books as needed, the other stuff is in envelopes waiting their turn again, which almost never happens. right now I have 4 pages of my own oracle, UNE and Microlite D20 (Purist Essence)
Amazing how your comment took me to the next level… I don’t need a ton of nice 3 Ring binders for every pdf I buy and print. I can just have a nice storage solution for the printed pdfs, and then when I want to play them, I can simply swap them out into my very nice and favorite 3-Ring binder. I get that a near permanent binding feels/looks good but in the little bit of RPG playing I’ve done, the books are like auto mechanic work books and need to be easily passed around and thumbed through and be able to pull out references and ref rolling tables…. And shared with a couple copies around the table.
That's a good method
You know, I might drop your method in a video (and credit you, of course). I never considered doing this your way, because it's very outside of our normal thinking. But in board games, I have spoken before about how much I've been turning towards these solo skirmish games where you buy only the rules, then bring your own materials and reuse them between multiple games.
With as expensive as everything is getting, and how much it costs to freight all these redundant components in from China, it just seems like the only way some of us won't get priced out of our hobbies is to reuse components and dial back the luxury obsession.
Anyway, thanks so much for taking the time to share your method
I agree. Andrew's method is paradigm shifting. It really has me thinking
Will you be making play through videos for this? That would be great!
Edit: Oh you answered this kinda at the end. Sorry
hey, never apologize for early commenting! I always appreciate a comment.
I have a cyberpunk mini skirmish game called Kuroi that I think will come first, but I think Forbidden Lands will come after that. So stay tuned!
Ok, so it's a bit more ghetto than I expected, but it works fine I guess. Thanks for the advice!
ha it's definitely purely functional. My board games are on display upstairs and my rpg books are my secret shame in the basement
Next time type the book titles on paper, I use the same el cheapo duck tape but halved the width.
I used to print the covers, but I don't have much of this discontinued card stock that is flexible enough to go through my printer. I have a bunch of this heavier stock that won't
how long does the tape binding last before becoming sticky? have you ever used tape designed for book repair
My oldest are 4AD and only a few years old, and haven't gotten stick, probably though due to infrequent use. I had encountered book tape in my previous job (much more often removing it than adding it) but had totally forgotten about it. Thanks, I'm going to look into getting some!
Thanks
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