This was very entertaining to watch. Especially “flipping the neck” to the wrong side after fighting the pins and the CA glue. So satisfying to see I am not the only one that goes through this 🤣🤣🤣
2 года назад
What a great result for neck#1! One thing to consider is using a radiused endmill instead of a ball endmill, at least for the final passes. Max Glanville showed me that trick. Really does minimise the need for post cnc sanding!
Congrats man. I was trying to cut out my neck two weeks ago. In the end I ruined two neck blanks and burned my cnc's inverter. I just got the replacement in and need to figure out how to hook it up. Hopefully I will have a finished neck by the end of the week:) Thanks for the video.
I scrapped so much wood trying to get this all right. Thankfully I used mostly pine for my tests. Very forgiving if you didn't get your feeds right, or your path decides to execute a hard plunge suddenly and for no good reason :-D
@@mxmlnguitars that's partly why I typically set a finishing or roughing pass on 2d contours. When that happened in the video it was on the roughing pass so it never touched my part thankfully.
Hey Austin! Super cool video. Thanks for all the input. What i don’t understand is: why are you using blue tape and glueing it together instead of double sided tape? Is there some huge benefit that i‘m overlooking there?
That looks amazing! I'm glad to see that even you experience brain farts every now and then ;-) Regarding the back, why didn't you consider the 90 degrees with a flat end mill like you did for the head stock transition in the front? Was it the heel transition?
Yeah haha,, I always make at least one mistake everytime I run the machine. But thankfully I know how to recover usually. As for the ball end mill vs flat end mill...I thought about that a lot, and nearly pulled the trigger. But unfortunately that little raised portion of my heel (furthest part towards the headstock) required a ball end mill to get into those little fillets. Otherwise I would have totally just kept my flat end mill and kept the toolpath perpendicular to the center line.
When you size the hole for the dowel pins, do you have to export a new gcode each time or is there some trick to reusing that same toolpath but incrementally removing a little bit more material each time?
On fancier cncs you can set variables such as hole size that the gcode refers to, which makes changing things like that easy. But unfortunately on mine you are exactly right. I just re-post that operation only with modified stock to leave settings. I save my nc files to my network so once I save, I just run the new file and don't have to rezero my offsets
Sorry if you've explained this in other videos-- or if it's common knowledge among the more experienced-- but why were you adjusting the RPM's on the router for those earlier cuts? Is there an ideal RPM, and how can you tell? I just assumed you'd set it to "high enough," but in what instances would you turn it down?
Hey Tim! I haven't really gone into it in depth, but this is a huge topic called "feeds & speeds". Essentially you want to balance how fast the machine moves vs how fast the spindle rotates to take an appropriate size shaving on each flute. An imbalance in either direction can cause problems with your machine or surface quality. Maybe a simpler way to explain this, if you are familiar with table saws... is that table saws rotate at a fixed RPM, and we control how slow or fast we push the material through it. If you push it very slowly, you are likely to scorch/burn the workpiece since the blade will do more rubbing than cutting (generating friction). If you move too quickly, the cut will be very aggressive and your cut quality will suffer and you risk the motor stalling (pushing the blade through the material, rather than cutting its way through. So to answer your question more directly, I will often speed up the router if the cut feels too aggressive (taking a lighter cut each revolution) - and likewise will slow down the router if the chips are too small or I notice any burning on my surface.
Note: There is a lot of flexibility in this imbalance in soft materials like wood or plastic - but the harder the material, the more strictly those feeds and speeds need to be dialed in to have both good surface finish and a happy cutter/machine.
This was awesome! Once again, learned a lot. This video gave me a good perspective on what the ridges left by the bit actually look like, I realized was going too crazy with the step over because the representation Fusion gives you is a little deceiving. Also, what do you think about those larger bits with thin shanks? Too much wobble? There's a guy on youtube that goes by Audiohotshot, he uses these bits and from what I can tell they work fine with wood and a not so powerful router if you keep reasonable feeds and speeds. It seems like they get you a smoother surface right out of the cnc, in less time. Have a great week, can't wait for the fretboard video!
Glad you liked it! I have a nice variety of standard straight flute router bits (ball, V, flat etc). They work well, though in general, helical bits are a bit easier on your machine and less prone to tearout. I should have designed my heel with a larger bit in mind, because as it turns out that little raised portion of the heel needs a 1/4" bit or smaller to reach all the little contours.
Here is a tip: Always reference from the bed and offset all toolpaths in Z and you will never touch the bed and everything will be referenced from the bed which is always planner to the bit. This should also make it so you don't have to clean up your spoil board. So you would offset for the thickness of the work holding then add offeset for the material. Z zero to bed basically. This would have also help you not get your track bit by the bit.
Hello Austin, thank you for your extremely helpful videos! I wish they had been available sooner 😉 - my first Fusion 360 project was a J_Bass video project for our small CNC milling machine (advertising video) - what else but a hobby guitar maker! Drawing the guitar was very challenging! But programming and developing the perfect workflow is almost even more difficult! Here is the video link of how I approached the project. ruclips.net/video/UMj9k3JTZHo/видео.html Greetings from Tirol Helli
Hi Austin. Just for your information, fumes and dust from cutting or sanding phenolic is very toxic. Using a breathing mask is a good idea when making fine particules. I have work with it few times at my job and it is very nasty.
Great Job Austin! I'd Highly recommend using Climb cut at all times, in every operation, even if you have a very sharp tool and your speeds and feeds are correct, there's always a chance for tearout and splintering if you use Conventional cut. I've found that Conventional cut is good only for final profiling (with no more than 0.020" of stock to remove) and hole pocketing (Better for achieving desired tolerances). Keep the good work!
For roughing strategies I typically don't care about climb vs conventional. But for finishing i could see scenarios where you might select one vs the other, particularly on endgrain/corners.
Thanks so much for this, Austin! Quick question; Setting your xyz-zero to the fixture plate... doing so, do you have to take into consideration the thickness of your blue tape work-holding so that your cuts align vertically when you flip the parts? Thanks!
My pleasure mate! And ideally yes, taking into account the thickness of the tape would make the z height more accurate (you would add that to your stock in fusion). However, each piece of tape is typically .005" thick or so. So a .010" discrepancy in the z height isn't usually a huge issue. Just depends on how dimensionally critical your body thickness is.
@@austinshaner Much appreciated... and super helpful for me just to confirm I'm thinking about all of this (somewhat?) correctly. About to start a banjo build using a Shapeoko and your channel has been super helpful. Best, Shelby
This was very entertaining to watch. Especially “flipping the neck” to the wrong side after fighting the pins and the CA glue. So satisfying to see I am not the only one that goes through this 🤣🤣🤣
What a great result for neck#1! One thing to consider is using a radiused endmill instead of a ball endmill, at least for the final passes. Max Glanville showed me that trick. Really does minimise the need for post cnc sanding!
Ahh love it man!! Thanks for the video.
bro that looks so clean!! can't wait until you can start taking orders!! 😄👍💯 I'm so excited and looking forward to seeing the fretboard!!
Thanks mate! I don't know if I'll ever be in the business of selling these, but who knows - maybe if there is enough demand for it. :)
@@austinshaner dude I'd be happy to order even if they are rough cuts and I supply the lumber 💯😊🙏
Congrats man. I was trying to cut out my neck two weeks ago. In the end I ruined two neck blanks and burned my cnc's inverter. I just got the replacement in and need to figure out how to hook it up. Hopefully I will have a finished neck by the end of the week:)
Thanks for the video.
Nooo! That sucks to hear man. Any idea of what the cause was? Would love to see the neck once you get your rig back up and running
I scrapped so much wood trying to get this all right. Thankfully I used mostly pine for my tests. Very forgiving if you didn't get your feeds right, or your path decides to execute a hard plunge suddenly and for no good reason :-D
@@mxmlnguitars that's partly why I typically set a finishing or roughing pass on 2d contours. When that happened in the video it was on the roughing pass so it never touched my part thankfully.
@@austinshaner I have no clue what happened. Even the guy who built my cnc couldn't figure it out. Hopefully this new inverter will last longer.
Hey Austin! Super cool video. Thanks for all the input. What i don’t understand is: why are you using blue tape and glueing it together instead of double sided tape? Is there some huge benefit that i‘m overlooking there?
Awesome, as ever!
You didn’t show removing the excess stock or making the dowel pin holes in the neck blank. Anything special there to know about?
Do you have a list of your CNC setup? Parts list or anything?
Thank you for including the errors. Makes me feel a bit less "developmentally disabled."
That looks amazing! I'm glad to see that even you experience brain farts every now and then ;-) Regarding the back, why didn't you consider the 90 degrees with a flat end mill like you did for the head stock transition in the front? Was it the heel transition?
Yeah haha,, I always make at least one mistake everytime I run the machine. But thankfully I know how to recover usually. As for the ball end mill vs flat end mill...I thought about that a lot, and nearly pulled the trigger. But unfortunately that little raised portion of my heel (furthest part towards the headstock) required a ball end mill to get into those little fillets. Otherwise I would have totally just kept my flat end mill and kept the toolpath perpendicular to the center line.
When you size the hole for the dowel pins, do you have to export a new gcode each time or is there some trick to reusing that same toolpath but incrementally removing a little bit more material each time?
On fancier cncs you can set variables such as hole size that the gcode refers to, which makes changing things like that easy. But unfortunately on mine you are exactly right. I just re-post that operation only with modified stock to leave settings. I save my nc files to my network so once I save, I just run the new file and don't have to rezero my offsets
Sorry if you've explained this in other videos-- or if it's common knowledge among the more experienced-- but why were you adjusting the RPM's on the router for those earlier cuts? Is there an ideal RPM, and how can you tell? I just assumed you'd set it to "high enough," but in what instances would you turn it down?
Hey Tim! I haven't really gone into it in depth, but this is a huge topic called "feeds & speeds". Essentially you want to balance how fast the machine moves vs how fast the spindle rotates to take an appropriate size shaving on each flute. An imbalance in either direction can cause problems with your machine or surface quality.
Maybe a simpler way to explain this, if you are familiar with table saws... is that table saws rotate at a fixed RPM, and we control how slow or fast we push the material through it. If you push it very slowly, you are likely to scorch/burn the workpiece since the blade will do more rubbing than cutting (generating friction). If you move too quickly, the cut will be very aggressive and your cut quality will suffer and you risk the motor stalling (pushing the blade through the material, rather than cutting its way through.
So to answer your question more directly, I will often speed up the router if the cut feels too aggressive (taking a lighter cut each revolution) - and likewise will slow down the router if the chips are too small or I notice any burning on my surface.
Note: There is a lot of flexibility in this imbalance in soft materials like wood or plastic - but the harder the material, the more strictly those feeds and speeds need to be dialed in to have both good surface finish and a happy cutter/machine.
@@austinshaner Okay, gotcha, thanks! I'm still learning how to dial in the feeds and speeds, but keeping an eye on chip size is good advice, thanks!
This was awesome! Once again, learned a lot. This video gave me a good perspective on what the ridges left by the bit actually look like, I realized was going too crazy with the step over because the representation Fusion gives you is a little deceiving. Also, what do you think about those larger bits with thin shanks? Too much wobble? There's a guy on youtube that goes by Audiohotshot, he uses these bits and from what I can tell they work fine with wood and a not so powerful router if you keep reasonable feeds and speeds. It seems like they get you a smoother surface right out of the cnc, in less time.
Have a great week, can't wait for the fretboard video!
Glad you liked it! I have a nice variety of standard straight flute router bits (ball, V, flat etc). They work well, though in general, helical bits are a bit easier on your machine and less prone to tearout. I should have designed my heel with a larger bit in mind, because as it turns out that little raised portion of the heel needs a 1/4" bit or smaller to reach all the little contours.
Well I've ruined 4 necks so far. I'm so pissed. On to the 5th with a total change in tool paths and fixturing
Oh no! What did your process look like on the previous ones?
28 minutes in....Ask me how I know what that feels like Austin I've even done the same on some projects involving glue😢😢
Here is a tip: Always reference from the bed and offset all toolpaths in Z and you will never touch the bed and everything will be referenced from the bed which is always planner to the bit. This should also make it so you don't have to clean up your spoil board. So you would offset for the thickness of the work holding then add offeset for the material. Z zero to bed basically. This would have also help you not get your track bit by the bit.
Hello Austin, thank you for your extremely helpful videos! I wish they had been available sooner 😉 - my first Fusion 360 project was a J_Bass video project for our small CNC milling machine (advertising video) - what else but a hobby guitar maker! Drawing the guitar was very challenging! But programming and developing the perfect workflow is almost even more difficult! Here is the video link of how I approached the project.
ruclips.net/video/UMj9k3JTZHo/видео.html
Greetings from Tirol
Helli
Hi Austin. Just for your information, fumes and dust from cutting or sanding phenolic is very toxic. Using a breathing mask is a good idea when making fine particules. I have work with it few times at my job and it is very nasty.
Great Job Austin! I'd Highly recommend using Climb cut at all times, in every operation, even if you have a very sharp tool and your speeds and feeds are correct, there's always a chance for tearout and splintering if you use Conventional cut. I've found that Conventional cut is good only for final profiling (with no more than 0.020" of stock to remove) and hole pocketing (Better for achieving desired tolerances). Keep the good work!
For roughing strategies I typically don't care about climb vs conventional. But for finishing i could see scenarios where you might select one vs the other, particularly on endgrain/corners.
nice work
Great videos! Extremely helpful all around! Can you tell us where you get the plywood from? Thanks again
GREAT JOB, i love watching your videos nice greetings from Slovenia
Beautiful job Austin. Thanks for a great series of tutorials 👍🏼
Worked out great! Looking forward to the fretboard cut.
Thanks so much for this, Austin! Quick question; Setting your xyz-zero to the fixture plate... doing so, do you have to take into consideration the thickness of your blue tape work-holding so that your cuts align vertically when you flip the parts? Thanks!
My pleasure mate! And ideally yes, taking into account the thickness of the tape would make the z height more accurate (you would add that to your stock in fusion). However, each piece of tape is typically .005" thick or so. So a .010" discrepancy in the z height isn't usually a huge issue. Just depends on how dimensionally critical your body thickness is.
@@austinshaner Much appreciated... and super helpful for me just to confirm I'm thinking about all of this (somewhat?) correctly. About to start a banjo build using a Shapeoko and your channel has been super helpful. Best, Shelby