Got a rifle that after 3-4 shots wasn't fun to continue. Took a chance on a WITT MACHINE clamp on brake and shot an entire box. Made a believer out of me.
The tang on the Savage action is a good spot to reference leveling the action. The top of the tang is the same level as the raceway, so no wondering about misaligned bases or any of that while leveling things.
Years ago I did something similar with a big box retailer Remington 700 ADL package gun. Although, I used a H&S Precision stock and an old Leupold LPS Premier scope. It’s a good hunting rig.
I like light rifles in 06 I have my mountain rifle under 8 lbs I don't hunt with any belted mags. Here in WV. There is not really much use for them most places I hunt anything over 225 or 250 would be wish in one hand and whatever you want in the other it just doesn't happen unless you are on a gass line or a big power line my favorite rifle now is a 25 WSSM I HAD A 257 ROB. Stolen and that's the closest factory rifle to the dimensions I like it's the Browning I think stalker small light and shoots like a laser no farther than I will be shooting . I really enjoy your show 👍
Looks good! Glad to see you finally making something that’s not some long range rifle. It’s fun to watch videos of little things people could do at home. Like putting a dab of epoxy on the recoil lug in that stock.
Did almost identical build with my Savage Axis heavy barrel 308. I put in a timney trigger. Boyds varmint stock. Arken optic.. Brother arken optics is where it's at!!! They are going to win the government contract
That rifle really pops with the stainless, it looks fantastic. I have a Stevens 200 (Savage 10 pretty much) that came with a synthetic stock. Years ago I put a Boyds pepper laminate just like that on it. Turned a great shooting rifle into a great looking as well as shooting rifle. Thumped a lot of coyotes with it. Only problem I see are Boyds prices creeping up. I put a Boyds walnut prairie hunter on my Savage axis in 223, I opted for some checkering. When all was said and done I was left with a really good looking 650 dollar Savage Axis. Not sure I would go that route again, probably just spring for a different rifle.
I have a Savage and a Remington 770, I bought the Boydes at-one Pepper for the 770 but I am regretting that because I like the Prairie Hunter in CIRCASSIAN XX WALNUT RIFLE BLANK better. I will probable get it for the Savage both in 30-06. I like the classic look.
I recently bought the Boyds At-One Thumbhole stock for my Ruger M77 and I like it a lot. Next time I think I'm going to get their Spike Camp thumbhole stock.
I grabbed a Spike when they first was released. Did a review on it. I find it very blocky a d feels unfinished. I decided to rake a rasp to it a d smooth and trim and contour. I is ok now. But I wont buy another. I like some more traditional stocks in there line. I have four or five of there stocks and overall I like them. But not the spike and AT one styles. Just tryin ta help brother. You may like it I did not. BTW many stocks can have an adj comb added. All can be cut to length with pads installed of your choice.
Nice video! Good idea with the Boyd’s stock, however, I feel like you went in the opposite direction calling this a budget upgrade when you put a $1000 scope on. It would’ve made more sense to go with something in the $500-600 range. Just my 2 cents. Take care.
Great video for ideas to turn a basic rifle into a personalized rig DIY. Stainless and laminate is always nice. The budget portion not so much, aside from the stock, but I guess budget is relative.
its such a sleek looking rifle and then there's the bulky rings and the chunky 34mm scope , for a hunting rifle would rather have the silver scope 3x9 and keep the wider field of view and keep the above center line weight down instead of the heavier "tactical" exposed turrets unless your packing out for mountain range deer hunting at 700yds or so
I have a Savage with the Accu-stock which shoots amazing. I might bed it in a Boyds, they certainly look nicer. I’ll never go back to a non-adjustable cheek piece though.
$1,250 isn't a budget optic. You could have gone with the Arken EPL 4 for $399.99 losing 1x lower power and 2x at the upper end. The Athlon might have a higher clarity, but not much for the extra money.
Yeah, seeing some of this mans reviews and checking out some price points, I don't think he has the same objective view as what budget means to most of us.
@@CrazyPalidin57 I definitely agree this setup was not as budget as it could have been, but give him a chance. When it comes to reloading equipment he is very concerned about value. Just because something is more expensive, doesn’t mean it the best for the job and he will be the first one to say it. Saying that I understand where you’re coming from. I guess I just wanted to say give him another chance because he and the Ultimate Reloading team are a wealth of knowledge.
I'd recommend pillar bedding or glass bedding. Put one on a 300 win mag. 13 rounds later. My stock has split from the recoil lug all the way thru the pistol grip
Excellent video. I like how you lay everything out in an organized fashion and then go through each one in detail, one by one. That style helps me to memorize what products you're talking about!
I have a stainless Axis II .308 with the adjustable trigger. I also installed a Boyd's Heritage Pepper stock on it. Sadly, scopes to match the stainless rifle are hard to come by these days. I ended up installing a scope from a little-known company called Osprey. The rifle is purely a range toy for fair weather use only, so cosmetics are nearly as important as function for my needs. All in all, a good-looking package that performs well for me.
Nice Stock upgrade. The rifle looks great. I have a Remington LH(Left Hand) SPS in 30-06 that I purchased new several years ago. It is unfired. Crazy! I think I was disheartened when I removed the barreled action from the stock and realized how things have changed in what you get for your money these days. I already knew the stock was junk. Just dealing with it mad me sad. Maybe I just need to remember what I bought it for. A thrasher. But, my SPS's barreled action still has potential because it does have a 24 inch barrel and a BDL configuration. This Boyd's stock is the stock I have been wanting to upgrade to. It is reasonably priced and will add some weight and be a solid platform to bed to. But, I didn't really hear much detail about what the author thought about it. I really wanted a Bell and Carlson Weatherby patterned fiberglass model, but they don't make it in left hand and McMillan's are just too pricey for this gun. This Boyd's stock has that Weatherby-like raised cheek piece that is angled down to the comb that I think makes a huge difference in obtaining a great cheek weld and reducing perceived recoil. The weight helps and being more rigid will lend to a pillar full length bedding. I am really curious to know some real answers about what bedding methods really work the best under what circumstances. I have my opinions and experiences, but not sure of everything. All we really have to go on is varied opinions and some shared experiences by some really great sources and some questionable sources of information from both experienced and inexperienced people along with our own experiences and opinions. Over the years, I have read up, studied and watched many videos about this and also bedded several barreled actions. I once read where it is generally good practice to free float from a #4 contour up. Since then, I do not believe it was said right. This statement was from a very well respected gunsmith I will not name. He wasn't really wrong, but I am saying it can be right or wrong. I believe it can depend on some other aspects. Well, I think he did say "generally". I think he said that because he deals with match grade barrels and it is true for those more often. But, the jury is still out for me about some issues. I have two rifles to bed and I will do things a bit different with these. There is definitely some well accepted and proven elements in design and bedding practices. Pillar bedding is on top of that list in my opinion. I have used it and nothing else feels as solid as that when torquing down action screws. Remember the XP-100? I bought a new one in the 90's for $369 as a foundation to build a custom rear grip on. It was in 223 with a 14 inch barrel, center grip, single shot with that strange plastic stock. It used a pillar bedding scheme where the pillars floated in the stock and were engaged into round recesses in the action. CHEEZY! But, it shot fairly well. When I rebuilt this gun, I used the same scheme with steel pillars, but included them, the front of the receiver and tang only in my bedding. The barrel is free floated all the way to the lug. This custom 221 fireball is a dream to shoot and is sub 1/2 MOA with some loads. But, I would bed it differently if I was to do it again. I believe pillars take care of only part of the total solution. What about full length action bedding vs. tang and recoil lug area only. And what about full free floating the barrel up to the action vs. full length barrel bedding or just the shank area of the barrel(partial free float)? I have experienced results that counter what I thought was well accepted practices and I do think it involves exceptions and also opposing methods that can both work. Don't forget about that pressure point scheme at the for-end that puts a rig in a bind. This has been used since when??? All I know is a long time. I know it can work well to improve accuracy, but isn't this exactly why we bed rifles- to rid the rifle of any binding, stress or pressure points? Sounds contradictory doesn't it? Well, it is in a sense. But, these are examples of elements that accomplish certain desirable effects that gain accuracy by preventing inaccuracy for one reason or another and are not necessarily related in what they do to promote accuracy. But, back to my ultimate question- when should you use what method or elements? What about incorporating all of them at the same time? Is that even possible or necessary? What about the one method that is the simplest and easiest way to achieve close to the most bang for anybody's buck? I think a good gunsmith should always consider what kind of rifle he or she is dealing with. Does it have a factory barrel or is it match grade? What contour? Is it too long for its contour? What kind of stock are we bedding to? The one method that might come to mind is full length bedding while excluding the middle section of the action. The question of weather to include the middle portion of the action or not is determined by what? Forget about a full length glue in. Glue-in is the best of all but one that wont fly for most people, unless you are a bench rest competitor. That is why they have used it. We want to stay conventional and versatile here. On my SPS, I will break the barrel in my way and develop a good load with the original stock to obtain a base line to compare to. I will bolt in my new Boyd's stock and test for accuracy. If it is good enough for me, I will do nothing. If I choose to bed, I will pillar bed with a full length bedding all the way from tang to for-end tip. I will test it. If necessary, I will relieve to a partial free float arrangement and retest. By this time, I will be satisfied I know what I need to know. Hopefully, it will have been transformed somewhere along the way.
Throwing it out there machine in a muzzle break you may enjoy shooting it now that it will have less recoil. Still a good upgrade and not overpriced to keep it in someone's budget
That 10ish pound range is probably a good compromise for most people between shootablity and packability in a 30-06ish recoil cartridge. Looks good too.
I think 10lbs is too much . I've got a 308 that weighing 8lbs 12oz scope n all and after 5r6 hrs lugging it around the thick brush and steep ridges that's all the weight I want. I would Def notice another pound n half . 8lbs is the max in my opinion for user friendly long hunts
Funny when I watch people shooting a sporter 30-06 and they often comment about the stout recoil. When I was working up loads for my custom 340 Weatherby, rem 700 action,HS precision fibreglass stock, about 9.5 pounds, 250 grain bullets at about 2950 fps, a friend asked me to sight in his 30-06 and he complained about the recoil? When I sighted in the 06 I was surprised how mild and pleasant it was to shoot lol! It’s all about perspective? After a couple hundred rounds with the 340 the 06 felt like a varmint rifle. Not kidding!
Lol. I just did the same thing with a Savage 116 in 7 Rem mag. I, however, was trying to keep it light for elk hunting in the mountains. I installed Houge over molded stock, Vortex Viper 6.5 x 20, and installed a Trigger Basix trigger. ( My gun was a pre accu trigger model.) Shoots great, but I really liked the Boyd's stock you used. Thanks for the video.
Too much money invested on aftermarket parts, without the barrel, having been threaded for a break or suppressor I would’ve liked to have seen aluminum pillars, and a good bedding job, that would’ve hopefully increased accuracy more
I put a Boyd's pepper stock with laser engraved texturing, pillar bedding, etc on a RA Predator barreled action. Turned out nice but Boyd's stocks are getting expensive enough that it's close to not being worth it. But their modern laser engraved texturing feels awesome compared to their plain laminated stock.
Looks good! I prefer a browning BAR for a hunting rifle. They seem to point well and have less kick plus all of mine shoot 1 MOA or better with the right ammo.
I have a savage 110 in 30-06 with black plastic stock and bushnell elite 3-9. I've thought about putting a boyd's on it cuz it's ugly honestly. But with a little work free-floating and working on the trigger, I can shoot a few different handloads at 3/4 inch at 100 yards. Which is good for me with a 400 dollar gun. Love the vid!
Too much scope for the price point. I think maybe a more appropriate option for real world deer hunting would be the Burris Signature HD 3-15x44mm at 15.5 oz. Or, the Bushnell Forge 2.5-15×50 Scope. In the midwestern woods and farm land I hunt, 50-300 yards is the norm. I would say with 90% of shots in the 80-150 yard range. As such, I much prefer second focal plane to keep the reticle large enough to see at the very close distances. I realize you are west, so preferences would probably be different. But the over $1,000 Athalon Ares UHD sure seems over-kill for an $800 Savage in .30-06. If I was setting up a Fierce, Christiansen Arms, Seekins, or Bergara Premier line, or something in that category in 7mm Rem mag, 6.5/7mm/ or 300 PRC, then I would feel the Athalon Ares UHD is more appropriate. Just my 2 cents worth. FYI. I did literally the exact upgrade from you video. I have a Tikka T3 in .338 Federal. I swapped out the black plastic stock with a Boyds thumb hole stock. It is beautiful to look at and shoots so much more comfortable than previously setup.
Great job Gavin beautiful combination with the laminated Boyd black/ silver stock. I built a similar rifle a few years ago with a Mauser 243 and thumb hole green / black/beige stock likewise beautiful rifle. What are you going to use as finish and with sanding are you concerned about “ blurring or bleeding over”the dark and lighter colors during finish sanding? Thank you, always love your videos. C Rhea MD
I have a 25-06 in process, walnut thumb hole stock, howa barrel action and going to thread and fit silencer. Zerotech 3-9x40 scope. Can’t wait! This video made me so excited! Thanks Gavin!
I love it! Great video and nice rifle build! I probably would go with a more budget minded scope. I shoot sub MOA with at least 6 different rifles that all have optics between $300 & $900 out to 400 yards. I have one $1,500 Leopold on a target rifle and it's fantastic but I shoot just as well with several that are 1/3 of the price.
@@TAWier scope quality doesn’t really affect the ability to hold zero once you move past the $200 price point. After that you are paying for clarity, comfort for long term glassing, and adjustment accuracy
@Alex Mason I know that but the deer I shot with a rifle that had a 30+ year old Simmons scope that was under $100 shouldn't have been able to perform but it has always held zero and the deer was hit exactly where I was aiming in the early morning with overcast skies. I get what your saying though but it's not really that big a difference at 200 yards and in for most situations. I have HD glass on several scopes that range from $700 to $1,500 and I can see the difference in clarity and brightness but it's not that big a difference especially when the goal is improving the setup on a budget.
Outstanding! Love the looks of the Boyds stock on that Savage rifle. Quite an upgrade over stock... And... That's all the rifle that's needed for any North American big game. :)
I miss Curt and his videos on the Savage builds. I'm definitely a Savage fan boy! Those of us who like to build our own rifles and don't have the place or room for a precision lathe or milling machine can order the parts and build our own rifles.
@Vaughn Precision I just moved to the Washington Oregon line/ coast. I have an idea about a Savage build/part I'd your input on. Is there somewhere I can DM or message you?
I’ve got an older 116 in 30/06. It has the synthetic stock but it has the side button magazine release. It also has the factory on/off muzzle brake. I’d love to get an Agility stock for it
I have seen a lot of scope mounting vidieos, I rarely , like almost never, seen a final ck by aiming offhand in a shooting position at a line developed by a plum bob. How can you not and consider it true. The only true reference is gravity.
I just ordered a Heritage for my Marlin XL7. I assume that is the pepper stock. I went with Forrest. Yours looks nice with the stainless. I wanted a DBM, but Boyd's said it was a no go.
It looks nice. ..barrel match to stock.. I'd have liked to see the groups from factory stick vs groups from Boyds stock vs groups with boyds bedded . Also curious bout boyds thumbhole stocks for better comfort and trigger control ..
It’s an Off hand hunting rifle but you add a big 34mm tube 3-18x50 with turrets and a Christmas tree. What? Must be a western thing. I agree with getting that Simmons out of there but a 1” 3-9x40 with a duplex and small caps would be better suited for offhand. That laminate stock is sweet, always good to add a montecarlo or Weatherby style stock to any scoped hunting rifle.
The Savage and Boyd's stock are fine . I could even stiffen up the ugly plastic stock and make it work. I would prefer a low mounted 2×7 or 2.5x8 Leupold scope. I never did like the stove pipe boozuka tube scopes. Quick handling and field of view is important to me for a medium game hunting rifle.
Lately i been converting old savage Ott-6s into a 204 ruger with an EABCO replacement barrel and another in 6mmARC with a Shaw replacement barrel. And now i got another 30-06 that will become a 223 Wylde useing a EABCO barrel. I say old Savages beacuse i dont like those accu-tigger trash triggers.
Iv bedded a few Boyd's stocks , there great for the money, but I wish the length of pull , i think that is what its called ( the distance from grip to trigger) was a touch shorter.
I have thought about getting a less expensive rifle in a 7mm cartridge to go with my .270 Win and .300 WSM and upgrading the stock to pretty much the same stock that you did here to get my cheek weld in line with the scope etc.., Thanks for sharing this
That stock really does dress this gun up! I have a couple of guns I am wanting to replace the “Tupperware” stock with. Looks like this will be a winner!
Reminds me of a Davey Crockett story I heard about. A foreign noble was hunting in the states and couldn't hit anything with his expensive ornate rifle yet Davey was knocking down everything he pointed at. The noble offered a trade, rifle for rifle. Davey agreed. Once he had it he immediately began removing all the ornate embellishments from the nobles' rifle. True story? Haven't confirmed it personally but whole heartedly agree with the message.
I've got a 30-06 Garand with less recoil than the 308Win Savage 110 I have. Not sure if its the gas action on the Garand or it's weight that accounts for this.
I'd think both contribute to it, and with the Garand, a fellow shouldn't run today's top-velocity hunting loads anyway. All that leads to the Garand being pretty pleasant to shoot.
Got a rifle that after 3-4 shots wasn't fun to continue. Took a chance on a WITT MACHINE clamp on brake and shot an entire box. Made a believer out of me.
What caliber?
The tang on the Savage action is a good spot to reference leveling the action. The top of the tang is the same level as the raceway, so no wondering about misaligned bases or any of that while leveling things.
Love the upgrade. I have done the same for many of my rifles except I bed them. I really like the Ares scope.
I was thinking about putting the Ares ETR on my .270 and 30.36, after watching this video I'm definitely going to.
Years ago I did something similar with a big box retailer Remington 700 ADL package gun. Although, I used a H&S Precision stock and an old Leupold LPS Premier scope. It’s a good hunting rig.
I like light rifles in 06 I have my mountain rifle under 8 lbs I don't hunt with any belted mags. Here in WV. There is not really much use for them most places I hunt anything over 225 or 250 would be wish in one hand and whatever you want in the other it just doesn't happen unless you are on a gass line or a big power line my favorite rifle now is a 25 WSSM I HAD A 257 ROB. Stolen and that's the closest factory rifle to the dimensions I like it's the Browning I think stalker small light and shoots like a laser no farther than I will be shooting . I really enjoy your show 👍
Looks good! Glad to see you finally making something that’s not some long range rifle. It’s fun to watch videos of little things people could do at home. Like putting a dab of epoxy on the recoil lug in that stock.
Yup, this was just a nice, simple upgrade of Gavin's good ol' Savage hunting rifle. I like it!
I put the exact stock on a RA 7mm-08. Sweet upgrade!
Any idea of the weight difference between the Boyd’s stock and the factory plastic stock?
I have a Savage 116. In 270. It has the drop magazine. Love the video
Just ordered the same Boyds stock but laser engraved for my Ruger Hawkeye Alaskan.
Every rifle I own gets boyds except my antiques. Love em, especially the At-One.
Boyds makes a fine stock. Easy on the budget too.
I wish Savage still made these. I have a 111 in .30-06, and for $400 it did everything I need it to and looked pretty nice for a budget gun to boot.
Did almost identical build with my Savage Axis heavy barrel 308. I put in a timney trigger. Boyds varmint stock. Arken optic.. Brother arken optics is where it's at!!! They are going to win the government contract
That rifle really pops with the stainless, it looks fantastic. I have a Stevens 200 (Savage 10 pretty much) that came with a synthetic stock. Years ago I put a Boyds pepper laminate just like that on it. Turned a great shooting rifle into a great looking as well as shooting rifle. Thumped a lot of coyotes with it. Only problem I see are Boyds prices creeping up. I put a Boyds walnut prairie hunter on my Savage axis in 223, I opted for some checkering. When all was said and done I was left with a really good looking 650 dollar Savage Axis. Not sure I would go that route again, probably just spring for a different rifle.
I have a Savage and a Remington 770, I bought the Boydes at-one Pepper for the 770 but I am regretting that because I like the Prairie Hunter in CIRCASSIAN XX WALNUT RIFLE BLANK better. I will probable get it for the Savage both in 30-06. I like the classic look.
I recently bought the Boyds At-One Thumbhole stock for my Ruger M77 and I like it a lot. Next time I think I'm going to get their Spike Camp thumbhole stock.
I grabbed a Spike when they first was released. Did a review on it. I find it very blocky a d feels unfinished. I decided to rake a rasp to it a d smooth and trim and contour. I is ok now. But I wont buy another. I like some more traditional stocks in there line. I have four or five of there stocks and overall I like them. But not the spike and AT one styles. Just tryin ta help brother. You may like it I did not.
BTW many stocks can have an adj comb added. All can be cut to length with pads installed of your choice.
Way better looking with the laminate versus the polymer stock. Adding an extra pound and a half is not bad with the stock and higher power scope.
Nice video! Good idea with the Boyd’s stock, however, I feel like you went in the opposite direction calling this a budget upgrade when you put a $1000 scope on. It would’ve made more sense to go with something in the $500-600 range. Just my 2 cents. Take care.
Great video for ideas to turn a basic rifle into a personalized rig DIY. Stainless and laminate is always nice. The budget portion not so much, aside from the stock, but I guess budget is relative.
its such a sleek looking rifle and then there's the bulky rings and the chunky 34mm scope , for a hunting rifle would rather have the silver scope 3x9 and keep the wider field of view and keep the above center line weight down instead of the heavier "tactical" exposed turrets unless your packing out for mountain range deer hunting at 700yds or so
I put that same stock on my mossburg 100 atr. It made a big difference in accuracy and looks!
I have a Savage with the Accu-stock which shoots amazing. I might bed it in a Boyds, they certainly look nicer. I’ll never go back to a non-adjustable cheek piece though.
Boyd’s stocks are really great. I got one for a Howa mini barreled action and it shoots perfectly.
I have two Savage Rifles -- they are both excellent shooters.
Same laminated Boyd stock on my Weatherby Vanguard 300 winmag. Love it.
$1,250 isn't a budget optic. You could have gone with the Arken EPL 4 for $399.99 losing 1x lower power and 2x at the upper end. The Athlon might have a higher clarity, but not much for the extra money.
Yeah, seeing some of this mans reviews and checking out some price points, I don't think he has the same objective view as what budget means to most of us.
@@CrazyPalidin57 I definitely agree this setup was not as budget as it could have been, but give him a chance. When it comes to reloading equipment he is very concerned about value. Just because something is more expensive, doesn’t mean it the best for the job and he will be the first one to say it. Saying that I understand where you’re coming from. I guess I just wanted to say give him another chance because he and the Ultimate Reloading team are a wealth of knowledge.
I just did the same to my Savage 110 243.
Then pillar & Glass bedded the stock.
Boyd’s recoil pads blow chunks! Put a Limb Saver on there! It’s a night and day difference!
I'd recommend pillar bedding or glass bedding. Put one on a 300 win mag. 13 rounds later.
My stock has split from the recoil lug all the way thru the pistol grip
Nice! No complaints. (I don't need a bipod, but for those who do.... looks good.
Nice job!
I have always liked the look of Boyds stock winder if they can fix my Persuit.
Excellent video. I like how you lay everything out in an organized fashion and then go through each one in detail, one by one. That style helps me to memorize what products you're talking about!
Glad it was helpful!
I have a stainless Axis II .308 with the adjustable trigger. I also installed a Boyd's Heritage Pepper stock on it. Sadly, scopes to match the stainless rifle are hard to come by these days. I ended up installing a scope from a little-known company called Osprey. The rifle is purely a range toy for fair weather use only, so cosmetics are nearly as important as function for my needs. All in all, a good-looking package that performs well for me.
I have that stock in my 7mm08 also I am very happy with it!
Nice Stock upgrade. The rifle looks great. I have a Remington LH(Left Hand) SPS in 30-06 that I purchased new several years ago. It is unfired. Crazy! I think I was disheartened when I removed the barreled action from the stock and realized how things have changed in what you get for your money these days. I already knew the stock was junk. Just dealing with it mad me sad. Maybe I just need to remember what I bought it for. A thrasher. But, my SPS's barreled action still has potential because it does have a 24 inch barrel and a BDL configuration. This Boyd's stock is the stock I have been wanting to upgrade to. It is reasonably priced and will add some weight and be a solid platform to bed to. But, I didn't really hear much detail about what the author thought about it. I really wanted a Bell and Carlson Weatherby patterned fiberglass model, but they don't make it in left hand and McMillan's are just too pricey for this gun. This Boyd's stock has that Weatherby-like raised cheek piece that is angled down to the comb that I think makes a huge difference in obtaining a great cheek weld and reducing perceived recoil. The weight helps and being more rigid will lend to a pillar full length bedding.
I am really curious to know some real answers about what bedding methods really work the best under what circumstances. I have my opinions and experiences, but not sure of everything. All we really have to go on is varied opinions and some shared experiences by some really great sources and some questionable sources of information from both experienced and inexperienced people along with our own experiences and opinions. Over the years, I have read up, studied and watched many videos about this and also bedded several barreled actions. I once read where it is generally good practice to free float from a #4 contour up. Since then, I do not believe it was said right. This statement was from a very well respected gunsmith I will not name. He wasn't really wrong, but I am saying it can be right or wrong. I believe it can depend on some other aspects. Well, I think he did say "generally". I think he said that because he deals with match grade barrels and it is true for those more often. But, the jury is still out for me about some issues. I have two rifles to bed and I will do things a bit different with these. There is definitely some well accepted and proven elements in design and bedding practices. Pillar bedding is on top of that list in my opinion. I have used it and nothing else feels as solid as that when torquing down action screws. Remember the XP-100? I bought a new one in the 90's for $369 as a foundation to build a custom rear grip on. It was in 223 with a 14 inch barrel, center grip, single shot with that strange plastic stock. It used a pillar bedding scheme where the pillars floated in the stock and were engaged into round recesses in the action. CHEEZY! But, it shot fairly well. When I rebuilt this gun, I used the same scheme with steel pillars, but included them, the front of the receiver and tang only in my bedding. The barrel is free floated all the way to the lug. This custom 221 fireball is a dream to shoot and is sub 1/2 MOA with some loads. But, I would bed it differently if I was to do it again. I believe pillars take care of only part of the total solution. What about full length action bedding vs. tang and recoil lug area only. And what about full free floating the barrel up to the action vs. full length barrel bedding or just the shank area of the barrel(partial free float)? I have experienced results that counter what I thought was well accepted practices and I do think it involves exceptions and also opposing methods that can both work. Don't forget about that pressure point scheme at the for-end that puts a rig in a bind. This has been used since when??? All I know is a long time. I know it can work well to improve accuracy, but isn't this exactly why we bed rifles- to rid the rifle of any binding, stress or pressure points? Sounds contradictory doesn't it? Well, it is in a sense. But, these are examples of elements that accomplish certain desirable effects that gain accuracy by preventing inaccuracy for one reason or another and are not necessarily related in what they do to promote accuracy. But, back to my ultimate question- when should you use what method or elements? What about incorporating all of them at the same time? Is that even possible or necessary? What about the one method that is the simplest and easiest way to achieve close to the most bang for anybody's buck? I think a good gunsmith should always consider what kind of rifle he or she is dealing with. Does it have a factory barrel or is it match grade? What contour? Is it too long for its contour? What kind of stock are we bedding to? The one method that might come to mind is full length bedding while excluding the middle section of the action. The question of weather to include the middle portion of the action or not is determined by what? Forget about a full length glue in. Glue-in is the best of all but one that wont fly for most people, unless you are a bench rest competitor. That is why they have used it. We want to stay conventional and versatile here. On my SPS, I will break the barrel in my way and develop a good load with the original stock to obtain a base line to compare to. I will bolt in my new Boyd's stock and test for accuracy. If it is good enough for me, I will do nothing. If I choose to bed, I will pillar bed with a full length bedding all the way from tang to for-end tip. I will test it. If necessary, I will relieve to a partial free float arrangement and retest. By this time, I will be satisfied I know what I need to know. Hopefully, it will have been transformed somewhere along the way.
Thanks for the video of budget gun build.
I am doing a very similar build on a Ruger M77 Mark II in 30-06. I would love to see you do a pillar bedding video for that platform.
Throwing it out there machine in a muzzle break you may enjoy shooting it now that it will have less recoil. Still a good upgrade and not overpriced to keep it in someone's budget
That 10ish pound range is probably a good compromise for most people between shootablity and packability in a 30-06ish recoil cartridge. Looks good too.
I think 10lbs is too much . I've got a 308 that weighing 8lbs 12oz scope n all and after 5r6 hrs lugging it around the thick brush and steep ridges that's all the weight I want. I would Def notice another pound n half . 8lbs is the max in my opinion for user friendly long hunts
I have a ar10 that's 10.5 lbs. It never leaves the closet lol
You should thread the barrel and put a break on and do it’s own hand loads, it’s own modern/long range spin on an old cartridge
After this video we ran some of my handloads through it, and that Savage is capable of amazing accuracy.
Funny when I watch people shooting a sporter 30-06 and they often comment about the stout recoil. When I was working up loads for my custom 340 Weatherby, rem 700 action,HS precision fibreglass stock, about 9.5 pounds, 250 grain bullets at about 2950 fps, a friend asked me to sight in his 30-06 and he complained about the recoil? When I sighted in the 06 I was surprised how mild and pleasant it was to shoot lol! It’s all about perspective? After a couple hundred rounds with the 340 the 06 felt like a varmint rifle. Not kidding!
Yup. I consider the 30-06 to have quite reasonable recoil.
Lol. I just did the same thing with a Savage 116 in 7 Rem mag. I, however, was trying to keep it light for elk hunting in the mountains. I installed Houge over molded stock, Vortex Viper 6.5 x 20, and installed a Trigger Basix trigger. ( My gun was a pre accu trigger model.) Shoots great, but I really liked the Boyd's stock you used. Thanks for the video.
I rebarreled one this past summer like your m77. Hogue bedded over molded. Rifle basics trigger, and a viper 4-16. Shilen barrel
Very gorgeous the grey stock and stainless steel barrel🎉
I did this with a Stevens 200 in 30-06, hard to beat those Boyd’s stocks.
Too much money invested on aftermarket parts, without the barrel, having been threaded for a break or suppressor
I would’ve liked to have seen aluminum pillars, and a good bedding job, that would’ve hopefully increased accuracy more
Looks very nice, you should pillar bed it and see what it will do off the bench with a worked up load.
Since this video came out - I've used the rifle to shoot some very nice groups at 100 yards with my handloads. :)
The stock definitely changed the look. Thanks for the info and video.
Boyds makes very nice products.
I put a Boyd's pepper stock with laser engraved texturing, pillar bedding, etc on a RA Predator barreled action. Turned out nice but Boyd's stocks are getting expensive enough that it's close to not being worth it.
But their modern laser engraved texturing feels awesome compared to their plain laminated stock.
What shape did you put on that ruger?
@@ryangoby9095 Boyd's Classic stock with "Ribbon Panel Stippling". Turned out nice.
Looks good! I prefer a browning BAR for a hunting rifle. They seem to point well and have less kick plus all of mine shoot 1 MOA or better with the right ammo.
I have a savage 110 in 30-06 with black plastic stock and bushnell elite 3-9. I've thought about putting a boyd's on it cuz it's ugly honestly. But with a little work free-floating and working on the trigger, I can shoot a few different handloads at 3/4 inch at 100 yards. Which is good for me with a 400 dollar gun.
Love the vid!
Too much scope for the price point. I think maybe a more appropriate option for real world deer hunting would be the Burris Signature HD 3-15x44mm at 15.5 oz. Or, the Bushnell Forge 2.5-15×50 Scope. In the midwestern woods and farm land I hunt, 50-300 yards is the norm. I would say with 90% of shots in the 80-150 yard range. As such, I much prefer second focal plane to keep the reticle large enough to see at the very close distances. I realize you are west, so preferences would probably be different. But the over $1,000 Athalon Ares UHD sure seems over-kill for an $800 Savage in .30-06. If I was setting up a Fierce, Christiansen Arms, Seekins, or Bergara Premier line, or something in that category in 7mm Rem mag, 6.5/7mm/ or 300 PRC, then I would feel the Athalon Ares UHD is more appropriate. Just my 2 cents worth. FYI. I did literally the exact upgrade from you video. I have a Tikka T3 in .338 Federal. I swapped out the black plastic stock with a Boyds thumb hole stock. It is beautiful to look at and shoots so much more comfortable than previously setup.
"I can't leave anything alone"
Same.
Been think about doing the very same thing to my son's 6.5 c savage with that same stock.
100% better.... love that stock color
Great job Gavin beautiful combination with the laminated Boyd black/ silver stock. I built a similar rifle a few years ago with a Mauser 243 and thumb hole green / black/beige stock likewise beautiful rifle. What are you going to use as finish and with sanding are you concerned about “ blurring or bleeding over”the dark and lighter colors during finish sanding? Thank you, always love your videos.
C Rhea MD
You should do your sporter rifle muzzle threading on this.
Out of all of my guns I hunt with my Browning 30-06 a bolt every year.
I have a 25-06 in process, walnut thumb hole stock, howa barrel action and going to thread and fit silencer. Zerotech 3-9x40 scope. Can’t wait! This video made me so excited! Thanks Gavin!
25-06 is a great cartridge! Enjoy that rifle.
Great stock upgrade..love it
I would have liked to have seen a scope only accuracy test before and after stock replacement without bedding.
Nice package. Except I would have left the Simmons on there. Nothing wrong with it for deer hunting.
I agree with the boyds being a budget friendly stock, but the scope is $1200. That is not budget.
@Trever Thompson I think his point is if your going to spend that much on the scope, you would buy a better stock too
I love it! Great video and nice rifle build! I probably would go with a more budget minded scope. I shoot sub MOA with at least 6 different rifles that all have optics between $300 & $900 out to 400 yards. I have one $1,500 Leopold on a target rifle and it's fantastic but I shoot just as well with several that are 1/3 of the price.
@@TAWier scope quality doesn’t really affect the ability to hold zero once you move past the $200 price point. After that you are paying for clarity, comfort for long term glassing, and adjustment accuracy
@Alex Mason I know that but the deer I shot with a rifle that had a 30+ year old Simmons scope that was under $100 shouldn't have been able to perform but it has always held zero and the deer was hit exactly where I was aiming in the early morning with overcast skies. I get what your saying though but it's not really that big a difference at 200 yards and in for most situations. I have HD glass on several scopes that range from $700 to $1,500 and I can see the difference in clarity and brightness but it's not that big a difference especially when the goal is improving the setup on a budget.
ARKEN Optics. $400 scope reviewed to have $1,000 - $1,200 value.
Outstanding! Love the looks of the Boyds stock on that Savage rifle. Quite an upgrade over stock... And... That's all the rifle that's needed for any North American big game. :)
You know it Guy!
I miss Curt and his videos on the Savage builds. I'm definitely a Savage fan boy! Those of us who like to build our own rifles and don't have the place or room for a precision lathe or milling machine can order the parts and build our own rifles.
I might be building another rifle this year, if I do I’ll post it.!
@Vaughn Precision I just moved to the Washington Oregon line/ coast. I have an idea about a Savage build/part I'd your input on. Is there somewhere I can DM or message you?
Nice looking. Only 9.41 lbs too. Good shooting
I’ve got an older 116 in 30/06. It has the synthetic stock but it has the side button magazine release. It also has the factory on/off muzzle brake. I’d love to get an Agility stock for it
Really cool. All savages shoot great
I have seen a lot of scope mounting vidieos, I rarely , like almost never, seen a final ck by aiming offhand in a shooting position at a line developed by a plum bob. How can you not and consider it true. The only true reference is gravity.
Right on Gavin!
I just ordered a Heritage for my Marlin XL7. I assume that is the pepper stock. I went with Forrest. Yours looks nice with the stainless. I wanted a DBM, but Boyd's said it was a no go.
Nice upgrades looks better to with the stainless steel 😊
It looks nice. ..barrel match to stock..
I'd have liked to see the groups from factory stick vs groups from Boyds stock vs groups with boyds bedded .
Also curious bout boyds thumbhole stocks for better comfort and trigger control ..
I've got a Boyds thumbhole stock on my 22-250 varmint rifle, a Remington 700. It's very comfortable to use.
It’s an Off hand hunting rifle but you add a big 34mm tube 3-18x50 with turrets and a Christmas tree. What? Must be a western thing. I agree with getting that Simmons out of there but a 1” 3-9x40 with a duplex and small caps would be better suited for offhand.
That laminate stock is sweet, always good to add a montecarlo or Weatherby style stock to any scoped hunting rifle.
I love Boyd stock have beaded love them they have alot of stock for sale
The Savage and Boyd's stock are fine . I could even stiffen up the ugly plastic stock and make it work. I would prefer a low mounted 2×7 or 2.5x8 Leupold scope. I never did like the stove pipe boozuka tube scopes. Quick handling and field of view is important to me for a medium game hunting rifle.
Understand. I typically use a fixed 6x Leupold on my hunting rifles, or a fixed 2.5x Leupold.
I like the upgrade. I want to do my mossberg 4x4 with a boyds
Can’t say I am a huge fan of laminate stocks, least of which the grey ones, but whatever floats your boat.
we need a high end 30-06 build
This 30-06 fan agrees! :)
@@guyminer3168 make it happen!!
That’s a nice looking rifle Gavin.! Should be a great hunting set up and not weigh you down in the hills.
Nice improvement Gavin!
Lately i been converting old savage Ott-6s into a 204 ruger with an EABCO replacement barrel and another in 6mmARC with a Shaw replacement barrel. And now i got another 30-06 that will become a 223 Wylde useing a EABCO barrel. I say old Savages beacuse i dont like those accu-tigger trash triggers.
Alway thought the ring nuts faced the non ejection side?
The Heritage is usually what I go for with my builds or if I'm replacing a factory stock. I've used XX Maple, the nutmeg, and coyote
What did you think of their XX Maple? I haven't seen that yet.
Looks great and it's definitely an improvement.
One of us! Nothing like watching a RUclips video to learn how to disassemble a rifle, lol
Would there be a big difference in accuracy if you were to pillar bed it? Also do you prefer the fore grip of the heritage vs the prairie hunter?
I have the same rifle. Definitely interested in what upgrades or changes you make.
I'm looking at the Bell and Carlson stock
Iv bedded a few Boyd's stocks , there great for the money, but I wish the length of pull , i think that is what its called ( the distance from grip to trigger) was a touch shorter.
They can be shortened...
@@guyminer3168 from the grip to trigger? I don't mean the but stock length if that's how it sounded.
@@allen4758 - ah no. You're right, that is what it is.
Great looking semi budget build, too bad it doesn’t have a threaded muzzle.
Gavin just might thread that muzzle someday...
I like it. Just add a titanium silencer.
Honestly the biggest improvement might be that Athlon scope. Bought one for $500 and it equals if not surpasses my $1000+ scopes I have.
I have thought about getting a less expensive rifle in a 7mm cartridge to go with my .270 Win and .300 WSM and upgrading the stock to pretty much the same stock that you did here to get my cheek weld in line with the scope etc.., Thanks for sharing this
Thinking about doing the same thing with the Stevens model 200 30.06
That stock really does dress this gun up! I have a couple of guns I am wanting to replace the “Tupperware” stock with. Looks like this will be a winner!
Reminds me of a Davey Crockett story I heard about.
A foreign noble was hunting in the states and couldn't hit anything with his expensive ornate rifle yet Davey was knocking down everything he pointed at. The noble offered a trade, rifle for rifle. Davey agreed. Once he had it he immediately began removing all the ornate embellishments from the nobles' rifle. True story? Haven't confirmed it personally but whole heartedly agree with the message.
Rifle looks great
Did you adjust the trigger. Many rifles come with 3.5lbs or more. Trigger pull weight is important to me for accuracy.
I've got a 30-06 Garand with less recoil than the 308Win Savage 110 I have. Not sure if its the gas action on the Garand or it's weight that accounts for this.
I'd think both contribute to it, and with the Garand, a fellow shouldn't run today's top-velocity hunting loads anyway. All that leads to the Garand being pretty pleasant to shoot.
I want a stock like this for my Savage Axis in 270.