I'll be dealing with the same kind of work starting tomorrow. So I'm pretty glad I came across your video here. Hopefully all works well. 🙏🏼 thank you for sharing and passing along the knowledge.
Hello there and thank you for watching. I think you’ll do just fine on the install. Just follow my 6 videos and you’ll achieve it. Don’t get started too late in the day. I typically won’t start no later than 10am. Hope this message finds you well. Good Luck tomorrow.
Hello there and thank you for watching. I’m glad that my videos are helping technicians out there like you. If you think of something that you would like please comment what you may need assistance on. I do my best to reply to all comments and have even made videos upon request. Again, thank you for watching.
Man ,thats actually a clean install you started with. Usually you'll discover those fur downs were originally installed with the utmost hackery when you go to replace them.😂😂 nice work!
Hello there and thank you for watching. Yes Sir, I appreciate it. I’ve been installing these units for the last 15 years at my apartment complex. I’ve trained several technicians over the years and most never seen these style units. I figured there were techs out there that needed my help so I started these videos. If I could reach just one, then I did my job.
Your work is IMPORTANT trust me I have two of these in my townhome & next door (rental) & having functioning units is very very important. I'm in DallasTX & we've had crazy weather the last year or so including that freeze in 2021. Sooo many dishonest people working in the hvac field it's terrible 😑
That’s unfortunate about the workers. I live in south Louisiana so last years freeze didn’t effect us that bad. I have family in Houston who suffered from it. I don’t think most heaters or the electrical grid were ready for that amount of cold weather. Thank you for watching.
A whole lot of dishonest techs which makes me want to get the most knowledge possible so I can diagnose honestly and accurately and not mess people over.
Thank you Klew Music for those kind words. Last week I replaced my 104th air handler at my property. I’ve been there for 11 years. It gets easier I promise. Just take your time and you’ll get it done. Good luck!!
Nice video! Thank you for posting. Have you seen the new improved ZoomLock fittings? They have been redesigned and offer 2 types now. The ZoomLock Push does not require any press tools. The ZoomLock Max uses the new "Rothenberger" press jaws.
Bill Burkhalter you’re very welcome. I have not heard of the Zoomlock fittings. I just sweat everything in. I’ll check into those fittings. How do they hold up over time?
@@klinthanks9946 They have been tested for years. The O-ring is HBNR (the same o-ring found in automobile compressors and line connections.)Which is compatible with most refrigerants. The main benefit is you no longer need to nitrogen purge. And no more torches, toxic fumes, fire hazard.
@@klinthanks9946 Can I use shark fitting to connect the inlet and outlet copper pipes to the coil ? My fan coil doesn’t have a heater, it’s basically blow air over coil. In summer the complex send chilled water through the coil while in winter the same pipes carry hot water Second question I have a good experience as a mechanic, will removing and installing a fan coil air handle unit is hard for someone who didn’t suck work before
@@tothepointvids5192 I’m sure you can use shark bite fittings. I don’t care for them, it’s a personal preference I think. I’ve seen contractors use propress fittings on similar fittings in the HVAC world. Some plumbers swear by shark bite while others only soldier. Having chilled/heated water run through probably doesn’t put the joint under the stress a typical cooling system does. I’ve never dealt with a chiller type system so I don’t know if my opinion is valid. To answer your second question, removing the excess weight of the blower and electrical components can allow for an easier install. Working above your head can be difficult so cut the weight where you can.
@@kevincarrick3304 Hello there and thank you for watching. Having fiber board makes it 10x’s easier. I however, have a metal sheetmetal plenum. Mine will have 2-3 screws on top and 1-2 screws on each side of the unit. Getting the screws out can be difficult if not approached carefully. Then stabbing the new unit into the sheetmetal plenum will sometimes be difficult if the top of the plenum is drooping any. I take them apart to reduce the fatigue my arms will encounter later on. I also do it because I don’t have much room to work with when soldiering them in. If you’re able to do the install with the unit as a whole, more power to you!!!! Each property is different though. Keep up the good work!!!
Hello there. You are 100% correct. I’ve seen so many vendors do electrical work and trust that the voltage is off. 9 times out of 10 it is off but there is still that chance that the breaker/disconnect failed to shut off. Thank you for watching.
Where would the drain line be for self maintenance? I got quoted 300 dollars. And another 150 for a 10 minute, it turned out to be, job. I live in a condo. Units are on the roof.
Hello there and thank you for watching. The drain line for these type units are at the unit itself. There is a drain nipple on each side of the pan. It is a 3/4” nipple. Where they go from there is up to the plumbing design. I hope this information finds you well.
Hello there and thank you for watching. Sometimes there are screws that you can back out but most times you just have to give it an attitude adjustment and get it out. I do have a couple videos on changing the complete assembly out. Check them out and hopefully it will answer your questions.
Hey Klint How do I relief the pressure inside the copper tube before cutting it. I closed the valves but there’s a pressure coil and the tubes I own my apartment in a shared community building. 50 condos have one common chiller and boiler. I don’t have and cannot stop the main boiler. But I do have my own shutoff valves in hot water inlet and return lines. I close these valves but I know there’s a pressure contained in the coil tubes.
Hello there and thank you for watching. I’m not familiar with a chiller/boiler set up. If there isn’t a visible bleed off valve then I would recommend asking the building maintenance workers. They may be able to point you in the right direction.
Hello there and thank you for watching. Are you referring to the drain line not flowing? Does this air handler hook to a chiller system? Let me know and I will do my best to help you out. Thank you
I live in an apartment and mine is just installed in the ceiling space in between the first and second floor. No clean box out or fur out concealing the unit. Meaning it’s just open to insulation and dust. Also no filter??
Hello there and thank you for watching. That’s not a good thing if unfiltered air is going into the system. Are you sure there is no place for a filter to go? There needs to be a properly sized grille install with a filter. This unit will work, but only until the evaporator becomes restricted with the unfiltered air. Hope there is a solution for your issue.
Thanks for the response! I went ahead and purchased a filter as soon as I read your comment. My main concern now is the fact that the unit itself isn’t placed in a clean fur out like the one seem in the Video. It’s just placed in between the ceiling and the second floor, exposed to insulation, dust and whatever other creatures lie in the walls. Am I breathing in dust of fiber glass particles?
Honestly, it’s hard to say without actually being able to put my eyes on the situation. All returns should be sealed from outside air/inside air so all air is force to flow through the filter only. If the cavity the air handler is in is sealed all around but air can flow across the any insulation then that could be an issue. If the insulation is way off, away from the path the air travels, then it may be ok. I would ask for the maintenance department to inspect and ensure it is sealed properly. Again, without my eyes on the situation it’s difficult to judge it. Hope this helps.
Hello there and thank you for watching. I purchase my air handlers through HD Supply Solutions. You may be able to go to a local hvac supplier and check to see if this is something you can order. You will need the correct tonage when speaking to them. Hope this information finds you well.
Hello There and thank you for watching. These style units can sometimes have a bent blower wheel or the motor/blower assembly needs a minor twist to it to get the blower wheel from tapping the shroud. I hope this information helps you out. Let me know.
@@klinthanks9946 thanks for answering.. it’s a new system but it sounds like an airplane taking off lol! I’m just wondering if it’s normal. My tech says it is.
If it’s just the sound of air moving then yes that’s normal but if it’s a loud vibrating or metal dragging against metal noise then it needs minor adjustment to get rid of that noise. Hope that helps.
Was there a leak? How could you leak check one of these, without pulling the damn blowers off? Btw good stuff man! Little things like pre sanding that copper before cutting is a time and energy saver forsure!
Yes, there was a leak. When these leak, it’s almost always on the tube bends where it comes through the galvanized sheet metal. General rule of thumb is if there is oil, there is a leak. A lot of time I’ll inspect while the unit has been running. Nothing says a leak faster than beaded up water on the tube bend. If the unit has been off, you can see the darker copper ends and sometimes rub your fingers over it and feel the oil. If those aren’t enough, soap bubbles will show something too.
@@klinthanks9946 Ah! Okay. I thought I would have to pull the blowers off to do a more thorough search. Also would you call this a horizontal coil? Even though it's called a FurDOWN....Thanks for the quick response 💪🏼
I guess you could call it a horizontal system since it does blow the air horizontal into a plenum. I’ve always called it a Furdown system and then have to explain what it is.
@@klinthanks9946 Yeah just had to explain one to a Home insurance company so they could order a new one . & Okay cool, I figured the same thing. Thanks Hank! You the Man! 😎💪🏼
I have a Goodman condenser that keeps short cycling. It will run for 3 seconds then shut off. Then it comes back on after 5 minutes and does the same thing again. Can you help please?
Hello there and thank you for watching. This could be any number of things but for starters, I would suggest checking your thermostat. It’s possible the batteries are weak. I would then suggest checking all wire nuts at the air handler and or condenser to ensure all connections are good. When this occurs, does the air handler continue to function? Hope this information helps you out.
Did you check your thermostat to ensure you have good batteries? I’ve seen cheap batteries and weak batteries make a system act funny. I’ve seen them not turn the handler on but turn the condenser on resulting in the unit freezing. This could be the opposite in your situation. Thank You
Well now that you e located the source, now it’s time to figure out why it’s getting so high. Clogged liquid line drier, dirty condenser coil, overcharged, restricted metering device at the air handler, locked up condenser fan motor. These are some reasons for a high head pressure. Hope you are able to get it fixed. Good luck!!!
No, the entire assembly is NOT “the coil”. They can be repaired. It’s just not an easy-peazy job to do. Don’t lie. The only places that get leaks in the assembly is from contact rub-through on the tubes going in-&-out of the galvanized end-plates….that eventually rust out. Copper doesn’t rust…but the plates do & that loosens & allows for vibration to insidiously work it’s inadvertent contact magic.
@@Casmige Hello there and thank you for watching. The air handler in this video is a 40 year old unit. Doing any amounts of repair to a unit of this age is not worth the time, not to mention the copper is paper thin. If I did decide to repair, it would be removed for easier access for the repair and at that point, just replace the whole unit. You got your moneys worth out of it. You’re right, copper doesn’t rust. I never stated that. It’s the galvanized end plates that the copper goes through that do.
@@klinthanks9946 indeed. I “get” what you’re attempting to assert. The copper is not paper-thin the copper is per code a certain thickness when extruded & it doesn’t get thinner over time but what does happen indeed is what I said: that the end plates which are galvanize steel end up rusting, loosening up around the 180° u-caps of the copper tubing that makes up “the coil” core allowing for vibration which then eventually wears through the softer copper (compared to the rusted Steel), Causing the leak. Copper doesn’t just start to leak without a reason. Copper could be in the ground or installed anywhere for 100 years & it’s not just going to suddenly leak “just because”. That’s why you never get a leak inside the main coil assy., it’s always either on either ends. & yes it’s $650 for an air handler it is cheaper, easier (& probably “best practices”) just to drop the damaged one & replace with a new unit but the old one is still repairable & for what HVAC guys are charging people 4x’s times the price for an air handler than what it’s costing?, *THAT?* well, that’s absolutely greedy Gordon Gekko obscene
@@Casmige I appreciate you taking the time to comment on my video and have a reasonable conversation. I by no means know it all but what I do know is that I’ve been in this career for 18 years and been working on/installing these units for 15 of those years at this apartment complex. When I say it’s not worth making this repair, I’m not saying that copper can’t be repaired, I’m saying that the unit as a whole is not worth it. At 40 years of age, the drain pan is shot, the internal “baffle” is rusted out allowing air to just blow wherever, and most of all, the coil is of a lower seer rating. Not to mention, these units do not have serviceable metering devices. All in all, these units served their a great number of years but at some point you gotta weigh your options on repair vs replace. As far as the copper is concerned, I have seen copper thinning out over the years. I can’t explain it, but it does. I can push the tube ends over with my thumb and they snap off.
Hello there and thank you for watching. These units can be tricky to replace and from what I hear, there aren’t many helpful videos out there. Hopefully you were able to find all my videos that are on my channel to be helpful with what you need. If not, are there any questions that you may have that I might be able to answer?
I'll be dealing with the same kind of work starting tomorrow. So I'm pretty glad I came across your video here. Hopefully all works well. 🙏🏼 thank you for sharing and passing along the knowledge.
Hello there and thank you for watching. I think you’ll do just fine on the install. Just follow my 6 videos and you’ll achieve it. Don’t get started too late in the day. I typically won’t start no later than 10am. Hope this message finds you well. Good Luck tomorrow.
I just started working on these units. They seem fairly straight forward but my trainer is super lame so this video is gold to me. Thankyou very much.
Hello there and thank you for watching. I’m glad that my videos are helping technicians out there like you. If you think of something that you would like please comment what you may need assistance on. I do my best to reply to all comments and have even made videos upon request. Again, thank you for watching.
Man ,thats actually a clean install you started with.
Usually you'll discover those fur downs were originally installed with the utmost hackery when you go to replace them.😂😂 nice work!
Hello there and thank you for watching. Yes Sir, I appreciate it. I’ve been installing these units for the last 15 years at my apartment complex. I’ve trained several technicians over the years and most never seen these style units. I figured there were techs out there that needed my help so I started these videos. If I could reach just one, then I did my job.
Your work is IMPORTANT trust me I have two of these in my townhome & next door (rental) & having functioning units is very very important. I'm in DallasTX & we've had crazy weather the last year or so including that freeze in 2021. Sooo many dishonest people working in the hvac field it's terrible 😑
That’s unfortunate about the workers. I live in south Louisiana so last years freeze didn’t effect us that bad. I have family in Houston who suffered from it. I don’t think most heaters or the electrical grid were ready for that amount of cold weather. Thank you for watching.
A whole lot of dishonest techs which makes me want to get the most knowledge possible so I can diagnose honestly and accurately and not mess people over.
Awesome video! Started working on these and his video is extremely helpful especially breaking them down in sections. This really helps . Thank you!
You’re welcome. Thank you for watching. Glad I could help.
Yeah I'll be tackling one of these for the first time on Monday I was looking for information seems informative thanks
Hope my videos help. Good luck and thank you for watching.
Encouraging attitude. Admire your work ethics. Im about to go tackle one for the first time. I was dreading it....or still am lol
Thank you Klew Music for those kind words. Last week I replaced my 104th air handler at my property. I’ve been there for 11 years. It gets easier I promise. Just take your time and you’ll get it done. Good luck!!
Thank you for sharing
I enjoy watching
I appreciate it. Thank You for watching.
Nice video! Thank you for posting. Have you seen the new improved ZoomLock fittings? They have been redesigned and offer 2 types now. The ZoomLock Push does not require any press tools. The ZoomLock Max uses the new "Rothenberger" press jaws.
Bill Burkhalter you’re very welcome. I have not heard of the Zoomlock fittings. I just sweat everything in. I’ll check into those fittings. How do they hold up over time?
@@klinthanks9946 They have been tested for years. The O-ring is HBNR (the same o-ring found in automobile compressors and line connections.)Which is compatible with most refrigerants. The main benefit is you no longer need to nitrogen purge. And no more torches, toxic fumes, fire hazard.
I’ll need to look into them. Thank you for the info.
thank you very much to show how to remove easy
You’re very welcome. I just responded to your other message about where to buy one.
You are awesome!!
Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching.
@@klinthanks9946
Can I use shark fitting to connect the inlet and outlet copper pipes to the coil ? My fan coil doesn’t have a heater, it’s basically blow air over coil. In summer the complex send chilled water through the coil while in winter the same pipes carry hot water
Second question
I have a good experience as a mechanic, will removing and installing a fan coil air handle unit is hard for someone who didn’t suck work before
@@tothepointvids5192 I’m sure you can use shark bite fittings. I don’t care for them, it’s a personal preference I think. I’ve seen contractors use propress fittings on similar fittings in the HVAC world. Some plumbers swear by shark bite while others only soldier. Having chilled/heated water run through probably doesn’t put the joint under the stress a typical cooling system does. I’ve never dealt with a chiller type system so I don’t know if my opinion is valid. To answer your second question, removing the excess weight of the blower and electrical components can allow for an easier install. Working above your head can be difficult so cut the weight where you can.
@@klinthanks9946
Thank you sir !
@@tothepointvids5192 you’re welcome!!!
Property I do has them over tub u can put a board on tub and take them out whole mine is done with fiber board I’m half way thru 380 units
@@kevincarrick3304 Hello there and thank you for watching. Having fiber board makes it 10x’s easier. I however, have a metal sheetmetal plenum. Mine will have 2-3 screws on top and 1-2 screws on each side of the unit. Getting the screws out can be difficult if not approached carefully. Then stabbing the new unit into the sheetmetal plenum will sometimes be difficult if the top of the plenum is drooping any. I take them apart to reduce the fatigue my arms will encounter later on. I also do it because I don’t have much room to work with when soldiering them in. If you’re able to do the install with the unit as a whole, more power to you!!!! Each property is different though. Keep up the good work!!!
Thank you for a good video! Very helpful.
Thank you for watching.
Thanks for video
You’re welcome.
The old chicken stick will save your back side from getting zapped! AKA non contact voltage detector 👍😉
Hello there. You are 100% correct. I’ve seen so many vendors do electrical work and trust that the voltage is off. 9 times out of 10 it is off but there is still that chance that the breaker/disconnect failed to shut off. Thank you for watching.
Those things love to rust up
Yes they do!!!
Amazing vid brother
I needed this in 2011. now I know. but still good for other maintenance people. who want to exert this type of work
Hello there and thank you for watching.
@@klinthanks9946 you're welcome
thanks man
Hello there and thank you for watching.
Great video, your are a Pro..!
Thank you for the comment and thank you for watching. Hope it can assist you.
Where would the drain line be for self maintenance? I got quoted 300 dollars. And another 150 for a 10 minute, it turned out to be, job. I live in a condo. Units are on the roof.
Hello there and thank you for watching. The drain line for these type units are at the unit itself. There is a drain nipple on each side of the pan. It is a 3/4” nipple. Where they go from there is up to the plumbing design. I hope this information finds you well.
Great vid. We seem to have a very similar unit and I was wonder how to remove the drain pan if at all possible?
Hello there and thank you for watching. Sometimes there are screws that you can back out but most times you just have to give it an attitude adjustment and get it out. I do have a couple videos on changing the complete assembly out. Check them out and hopefully it will answer your questions.
@@klinthanks9946 Thanks 💪
@@briantwining86 you’re welcome!!
Hey Klint
How do I relief the pressure inside the copper tube before cutting it. I closed the valves but there’s a pressure coil and the tubes
I own my apartment in a shared community building. 50 condos have one common chiller and boiler. I don’t have and cannot stop the main boiler. But I do have my own shutoff valves in hot water inlet and return lines. I close these valves but I know there’s a pressure contained in the coil tubes.
Hello there and thank you for watching. I’m not familiar with a chiller/boiler set up. If there isn’t a visible bleed off valve then I would recommend asking the building maintenance workers. They may be able to point you in the right direction.
Do you know if having a person vaping in the home will damage these units?
Any way to clean the blower fans and anything else to help it be more efficient?
Installed a air handler like this but water is not flowing through why not did I connect the water line wrong
Hello there and thank you for watching. Are you referring to the drain line not flowing? Does this air handler hook to a chiller system? Let me know and I will do my best to help you out. Thank you
I live in an apartment and mine is just installed in the ceiling space in between the first and second floor. No clean box out or fur out concealing the unit. Meaning it’s just open to insulation and dust. Also no filter??
Hello there and thank you for watching. That’s not a good thing if unfiltered air is going into the system. Are you sure there is no place for a filter to go? There needs to be a properly sized grille install with a filter. This unit will work, but only until the evaporator becomes restricted with the unfiltered air. Hope there is a solution for your issue.
Thanks for the response! I went ahead and purchased a filter as soon as I read your comment. My main concern now is the fact that the unit itself isn’t placed in a clean fur out like the one seem in the Video. It’s just placed in between the ceiling and the second floor, exposed to insulation, dust and whatever other creatures lie in the walls. Am I breathing in dust of fiber glass particles?
Honestly, it’s hard to say without actually being able to put my eyes on the situation. All returns should be sealed from outside air/inside air so all air is force to flow through the filter only. If the cavity the air handler is in is sealed all around but air can flow across the any insulation then that could be an issue. If the insulation is way off, away from the path the air travels, then it may be ok. I would ask for the maintenance department to inspect and ensure it is sealed properly. Again, without my eyes on the situation it’s difficult to judge it. Hope this helps.
@@klinthanks9946 great help! Thank you!
Thank you for watching.
sir where to buy that
mine long 43" w 28" high 10"
Hello there and thank you for watching. I purchase my air handlers through HD Supply Solutions. You may be able to go to a local hvac supplier and check to see if this is something you can order. You will need the correct tonage when speaking to them. Hope this information finds you well.
Installed one like this but it’s loud. Is this normal? Can it be adjusted in some way?
Hello There and thank you for watching. These style units can sometimes have a bent blower wheel or the motor/blower assembly needs a minor twist to it to get the blower wheel from tapping the shroud. I hope this information helps you out. Let me know.
@@klinthanks9946 thanks for answering.. it’s a new system but it sounds like an airplane taking off lol! I’m just wondering if it’s normal. My tech says it is.
If it’s just the sound of air moving then yes that’s normal but if it’s a loud vibrating or metal dragging against metal noise then it needs minor adjustment to get rid of that noise. Hope that helps.
@@klinthanks9946 sure did.. thanks!!
Was there a leak? How could you leak check one of these, without pulling the damn blowers off? Btw good stuff man! Little things like pre sanding that copper before cutting is a time and energy saver forsure!
Yes, there was a leak. When these leak, it’s almost always on the tube bends where it comes through the galvanized sheet metal. General rule of thumb is if there is oil, there is a leak. A lot of time I’ll inspect while the unit has been running. Nothing says a leak faster than beaded up water on the tube bend. If the unit has been off, you can see the darker copper ends and sometimes rub your fingers over it and feel the oil. If those aren’t enough, soap bubbles will show something too.
@@klinthanks9946 Ah! Okay. I thought I would have to pull the blowers off to do a more thorough search. Also would you call this a horizontal coil? Even though it's called a FurDOWN....Thanks for the quick response 💪🏼
I guess you could call it a horizontal system since it does blow the air horizontal into a plenum. I’ve always called it a Furdown system and then have to explain what it is.
@@klinthanks9946 Yeah just had to explain one to a Home insurance company so they could order a new one . & Okay cool, I figured the same thing. Thanks Hank! You the Man! 😎💪🏼
Thank you for watching!!!
About how much is one of these units? Dec 2022
Hello there and thank you for watching. These units around the 500-600 mark. The higher in tonage you go the higher the price. Hope this helps.
I have a Goodman condenser that keeps short cycling. It will run for 3 seconds then shut off. Then it comes back on after 5 minutes and does the same thing again. Can you help please?
Hello there and thank you for watching. This could be any number of things but for starters, I would suggest checking your thermostat. It’s possible the batteries are weak. I would then suggest checking all wire nuts at the air handler and or condenser to ensure all connections are good. When this occurs, does the air handler continue to function? Hope this information helps you out.
@klinthanks9946 yes the air handler is still running.
Did you check your thermostat to ensure you have good batteries? I’ve seen cheap batteries and weak batteries make a system act funny. I’ve seen them not turn the handler on but turn the condenser on resulting in the unit freezing. This could be the opposite in your situation. Thank You
@klinthanks9946 I found out today is was shutting down because of high head pressure.
Well now that you e located the source, now it’s time to figure out why it’s getting so high. Clogged liquid line drier, dirty condenser coil, overcharged, restricted metering device at the air handler, locked up condenser fan motor. These are some reasons for a high head pressure. Hope you are able to get it fixed. Good luck!!!
No, the entire assembly is NOT “the coil”.
They can be repaired.
It’s just not an easy-peazy job to do.
Don’t lie.
The only places that get leaks in the assembly is from contact rub-through on the tubes going in-&-out of the galvanized end-plates….that eventually rust out.
Copper doesn’t rust…but the plates do & that loosens & allows for vibration to insidiously work it’s inadvertent contact magic.
@@Casmige Hello there and thank you for watching. The air handler in this video is a 40 year old unit. Doing any amounts of repair to a unit of this age is not worth the time, not to mention the copper is paper thin. If I did decide to repair, it would be removed for easier access for the repair and at that point, just replace the whole unit. You got your moneys worth out of it.
You’re right, copper doesn’t rust. I never stated that. It’s the galvanized end plates that the copper goes through that do.
@@klinthanks9946
indeed. I “get” what you’re attempting to assert.
The copper is not paper-thin the copper is per code a certain thickness when extruded & it doesn’t get thinner over time but what does happen indeed is what I said: that the end plates which are galvanize steel end up rusting, loosening up around the 180° u-caps of the copper tubing that makes up “the coil” core allowing for vibration which then eventually wears through the softer copper (compared to the rusted Steel), Causing the leak.
Copper doesn’t just start to leak without a reason. Copper could be in the ground or installed anywhere for 100 years & it’s not just going to suddenly leak “just because”.
That’s why you never get a leak inside the main coil assy., it’s always either on either ends.
& yes it’s $650 for an air handler it is cheaper, easier (& probably “best practices”) just to drop the damaged one & replace with a new unit but the old one is still repairable & for what HVAC guys are charging people 4x’s times the price for an air handler than what it’s costing?, *THAT?* well, that’s absolutely greedy Gordon Gekko obscene
@@Casmige I appreciate you taking the time to comment on my video and have a reasonable conversation. I by no means know it all but what I do know is that I’ve been in this career for 18 years and been working on/installing these units for 15 of those years at this apartment complex. When I say it’s not worth making this repair, I’m not saying that copper can’t be repaired, I’m saying that the unit as a whole is not worth it. At 40 years of age, the drain pan is shot, the internal “baffle” is rusted out allowing air to just blow wherever, and most of all, the coil is of a lower seer rating. Not to mention, these units do not have serviceable metering devices. All in all, these units served their a great number of years but at some point you gotta weigh your options on repair vs replace. As far as the copper is concerned, I have seen copper thinning out over the years. I can’t explain it, but it does. I can push the tube ends over with my thumb and they snap off.
Who is this guy I need his help
Hello there and thank you for watching. These units can be tricky to replace and from what I hear, there aren’t many helpful videos out there. Hopefully you were able to find all my videos that are on my channel to be helpful with what you need. If not, are there any questions that you may have that I might be able to answer?