Very informative video Keith. After a good deal of research and instruction from people who have done diff changes many times, I am putting a 3.6 ring and pinion on my MSM torsen. Love the Pink Floyd reference. 😁
My little NA6 has the visco-diff, it seems it will be fine with the mighty 115hp that car is producing. But now i'm better informed on it all. Thanks FM, these vids are great and im already looking at your store with big eyes!
Viscous is not torque sensing but wheel speed sensing. They need a difference in wheel speed to start locking. Therefore viscous slip diffs are slower to respond.
Yup. This is why, if you boot it round a corner with a VLSD, it just won’t lock, because the wheel speeds haven’t changed. If you clutch kick, all of a sudden the wheel speeds are different in relation to each other and it “locks” … somewhat.
On the note of the 3.3 ring and pinion, i do believe Mfactory now sell a 3.3:1, for anyone curious about doing 280km/h with enough power and lack of self preservation
Has FM made a video on seam welding the targa miata? I want to seam weld my NA and would benefit greatly with a video on how it's done, were to weld and what not to do. I saw the info on the website.. I just think a video would be super cool..
I use 309L stainless welding TIG rod. Weld the body at 75 amps. I use a Lincoln Square Wave Tig welder and Argon gas. Weld one inch at a time to minimize warp and Pliojig to absorb the heat if you can get it. or some form of clay. Works fine
As far as rx7 housings, oiling isn't an issue. There is only a slight difference in the s4 mating surface where as the s5 is nearly identical to the 1.8 housing. The s4 is also around 2lbs lighter since the s5 is only marginally thicker. You cannot use the "pumpkin" from an rx7 without a custom driveshaft and mounting solution for the diff. I actually just put a clutch pack from an rx7 into my miata as well as the rx7 housing. The rx7 housing lacks the breaking notch too so it's a lot better for tracking the car as well as it will survive an impact. I already had one break from being rear ended.
Thank you tanner, I have several of your miata books and enjoy you all putting this See video out and all the others. I have 2005 miata speed and enjoy the part selection you all carry. Dan from Alaska
How about a video of putting in new diff seals. There’s one video how to rebuild a whole diff but not just seals: mainly pinion shaft seal and crush sleeve
@@FlyinMiataVideo no problem but to know how or a trick to doing it and not upsetting the crush sleeve or smoking the bearings and diff would be pretty awesome as it’s a wear part that has to be replaced and these rear ends are getting harder to find so service prices are going up since there’s no education out there on it Iv been told you can’t take the pinion nut off without knowing the torque as Iv also watched on RUclips people put the nut back on with an impact gun haha
I can answer the rx7 question. The diffs are essentially the same as na rx7s with the exception of the pinion length and axle shafts. The covers and mounting ears are basically identical....again the turbo rx7 stuff uses the larger 7 inch ring gear so that has to match. A lot of miata guys swap in the rx7 turbo clutch types which are very strong. The stub shafts and driveshafts would have to be custom.
FC rx7 NA and turbo diff carriers bolt onto mx5 na/nb pumpkins. people swap them because they are stronger and dont have the notch where miata diffs crack. i have a msm pumpkin on an fc diff carrier and the carrier has welded plates and poly diff bushings from a miata, running insane shafts on it. drives like a dream!!!
I'm watching as many of your videos as I can and I don't even have a Miata yet! However, this is the reason why I'm watching your vids, because I'm in the market for a Miata, just not sure which one yet. I was looking at 911's, but the maintenance and repair costs can be as much as a used Miata....fun factors are the same too! So if you're looking for ideas on what do show/film, do one on a V8 installation on an ND. I know, I know that would take some time, difficult since you may not have a V8 project now to video. BUT if you make a video on it as a purchase video it may be worth your efforts. And, I would purchase a used ND ASAP and bring it to you for the project....just saying! All your installation videos are great, although most are on NA and NBs, so please show more on the NC and NDs. I already have a list of things I'll be purchasing from FM once I get my Miata, which most likely will be an ND. Keep up the Great Work, it's greatly appreciated! Thank you for all you do!
We already have a full V8 install series on an ND - check our channel! We also have a number of ND-specific installation videos for everything from rear view cameras to suspension components.
Can you do one about brakes -how total piston area + brake system pressure are ultimately what affect clamping force (not number of pistons, though they help to better distribute that pressure) -what the difference is between different types of brake pads (semi metallic, metallic, ceramic, carbon, etc.) and their characteristics (Mu vs temperature, heat capacity, etc.) -rotors (size vs brake torque, mass vs heat capacity, importance of cooling vanes and their design) How to compare and evaluate braking systems (braking systems equivalent of horsepower in the "other" direction, how much energy you can dump into the braking system in a given amount of time and how much energy you can reject from the braking system into the ambient environment) Most importantly, how tires factor into the equation as they are the mechanism by which brake torque is ultimately converted into "stopping force"
@@frenchmanremy We've done three videos on reroutes: general theory, specifics on the FM solution and installation. We won't do one on competitor products, we prefer to educate our audience on how things work and then give the features of our own. We have found that when a company talks about products from a different company, there is rarely accurate information presented.
I know some companies sell larger housings for the rear differentials on Miata’s to get more fluid in there for cooling and lubrication. I was wondering if you could post a video about that or at least explain the process of doing this. Thanks!
I have a really big question and I'm getting ready to undergo this. I'm swapping a 43 gear ratio onto the 36 differential. I was wondering if you guys could do a video on that if or if that's something you guys do but it's something I'll be doing and I was wondering if you guys go to elaborate more on what it can and can't do for the car a positive negatives please if it's something you guys will be willing to do much appreciated. Thank you!
That's not something we do very often and we don't have any plans to do a video on it, but there is a writeup in the garage section of Miata.net on how to set up a ring and pinion. If you're worried about the setup, a local driveline shop can probably do it for you at a reasonable cost.
We haven't done a video like that, but the book "How To Build a High Performance Miata" has a good breakdown on how springs and sways affect the car's ride and handling.
I put a os giken in my 07 nc auto. Made it difficult to drive with the traction control on as it would set it off all the time. Turn the dsc off and its good ,really good😀. Other thing I think although it may be subjective it seems to work better on turn in with less tendency to partial lockup /grab one wheel as opposed to the factory open diff? Does that sound plausible? Btw great series vids.
Hi, could you make a video about intake systems, throttle body differences and intakes across the years/ engine range, and which works for na and fi. Cheers
Small correction at 3:10. With an open diff, both wheels always get the same amount of torque. So if one wheel is spinning and has low grip, the other wheel will get an equally low amount of torque.
I have a 2004 mx-5 Mazdaspeed with the Little Enchilada package and my diff destroyed itself somehow. Either I hit something or a gear came loose. The case was destroyed. Dealer said he had never heard of that happening. Cost me several thousand for a used one. Car was driven gently serviced properly and around 50k miles.
Torsens & Helical Diffs do NOT operate on a worm gear worm wheel basis. This is the most common misconception about Torsens. If you build a diff using worm wheels and worm gears it will 100% be able to lock the diff even with one wheel off the ground. The theory behind "worm wheels can't drive worm gears" is of course correct but the helical gears inside a Torsen/Quaife/Helical Diff are NOT worm gears (clearly evident by looking at it's cross section down the axis of rotation, you will see many teeth if you look at the gears inside a Torsen/Quaife/Helical diff but if you do the same thing to a worm gear, you only see one tooth). How Torsens/Helical Diffs ultimately operate is related though not the same, the angle of engagement between the gears in the differential create a thrust force through its axis of rotation into the casing itself, this creates a tremendous amount of force and friction. It's this friction that allows the differential to operate in the limited slip condition. The angle at which these helical gears are cut and meshed are ultimately what affect the torque bias ratio of the differential.
We like the Getrag because it's lighter and packages better. There have been no differential failures of the Getrag in Miata applications that we know of.
If I had a genie, I'd wish for an incredible LSD for the 2014 Mk3 GT Auto. Or at least an answer to why an open is on the automatics instead of an LSD.
What's the difference from a solid spool to a welded open diff ? I have a welded diff in my nbfl and It still handles / turns quite well so I'm interested in knowing why a solid spool makes such a difference
What's the torque bias ratio of the ND club LSD? It's not a clutch type as those need servicing somewhat frequently so surely they must be torsen (or some other helical, Quaife type)
@@FlyinMiataVideo Ah yes I found some info myself shortly after posting my comment. The "super lsd" is actually a pretty shit design compared to the older torsen units (both in bias ratio and fundamental design). It's using effectively a "friction washer" (they call it the taper ring) between the differential casing and side gears which "bind" under power ONLY as it relies on the thrust force generated from the pinion gear/side gear interaction (effectively a really shitty 1 way clutch type lsd with 1 clutch/friction plate) I guess with stock power and grippier modern tires we don't "need" as much torque bias as older NA and NBs which had torsens.... Atleast that's what I tell myself for why Mazda would use this over a torsen or Quaife which is similarly low maintenance.
I found a NC sport with 5 speed that has an open diff. Really low miles and babied-it’s a PRHT. I live in an area with a lot of bad bumpy roads and twisty roads. I kind of wanted an lsd. Would there be a huge difference in handling with the open and lsd? How much do you think it would cost me to add the lsd? Unfortunately I’m not a mechanic so would need to hire someone to do it.
You probably wouldn't notice an LSD most of the time, especially if you're not planning on taking your car to the track and pushing it hard. If you found an LSD out of a wrecked car and gave the entire pumpkin to your mechanic to swap, they'll probably charge you 4 or 5 hours in labor if we were to guess.
Not a reply exactly; I'm interested in the answer also. Looking closely (even getting transportation quotes) at a 2019 GT 6AT and just discovered that Mazda didn't put LSDs in any auto. Would really prefer one! I think I heard him say that there could be warranty issues and dealers probably reluctant to do the work.
@@davidshaughnessy8713 In order for a warranty claim to be denied, the modified parts have to cause the problem. So if you had a differential problem (or something closely related) after installing an LSD, you'd be on your own. But if you had an engine problem, it would still be under warranty.
I have a 99 1.8 Miata 5 speed with a 4.3/1 Torson differential, can I just put in 3.6 to 3.9/1 gears in so I can put in a 6 speed or does the entire diff need to be changed. I am tired of 4000 RPM at 60 MPH. I need another gear. Good at stop lights but fatiguing on the freeway.
Yes, you can replace just the ring and pinion. It'll take proper setup. The 4.1 is a good match to the 5-speed on a naturally aspirated engine. A 3.9 will certainly take some sparkle out of the car and a 3.6 will likely make it a dog.
The point is I want the range of a 6 speed but with a 6 speed and my current 4.3 to one rear I would be revving at higher rpm in 6th than I now am in 5th I want an overdrive 6th 4000 rpm at 60mph is annoying. That is why I want a 6 speed unless somebody makes an overdrive system which would give me a 10 speed.@@FlyinMiataVideo
With that current rear end that car gets barely over 30 MPG on the highway. My 6 speed 600HP at the wheels GT500 gets 24mpg on the highway. Although handling wise there is not much that can keep up with my Miata in tight corners with racing suspension from the factory and no factory AC. People that have tried overshoot the corner because I am around it before they can even respond. I need to use power to go around corners in my Cobra and tight ones no way would it keep up even with 600HP. The only vehicle I have that could keep up is my racing motorcycle but it would take more skill and courage than I have to do it.@@FlyinMiataVideo
Not inherently. Or more accurately, the choice of spring rates and how well they're matched to the shocks are probably going to be more important overall.
I believe they are, but they are running differential coolers to prevent failures. The important thing about the Global Cup cars is that they're all the same - their equipment may not be the best in terms of performance, but as long as it's consistent across the whole pack and reliable it makes for good racing.
This can be a little tricky to spot depending on the trim and what previous owners have done to the car. If Keith's video didn't give you what you needed to know, would you please reach out to our customer support team directly via phone or email? They'd be happy to give you some pointers on how to tell the diffs apart, as well as recommendations for fluids. Thanks!
I have a 92 NA. Living in south-east ALBERTA I spend a lot of time at 120 kmh with is not fun. What miata diff should I look for to lower the rpm or should I swap in a Cadillac diff?
First off, it's not hurting your car. Miata owners have been worried about high rpm highway use for 30 years, and it hasn't been a problem yet. The easy solution would be the 4.1 out of a 1994-97. You'll need the driveshaft, driveshaft bolts and halfshafts out of a 1.8 Miata as well. That can even get you a Torsen. You could also go with a 3.9 out of a 1999-03 6-speed car, but that little 1.6 is going to lose some acceleration in exchange. I would stay away from the 3.2 Cadillac rears even if they were an easy install.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks for the info. It might not hurt the car but it sure is hard on my ears. LOL I know it'll hurt acceleration but It's just a fun cruiser for now. I plan to add one of your turbo kits when money allows which should get some of it back and in the meantime time I can enjoy the drive to cruise/shows.
@@CODxPHIL Use a Torsen or a clutch pack. We're not drift specialists so you'll have to find out elsewhere which is preferable - I suspect the clutch pack. Running a welded diff (aka spool) on the street will lead to huge understeer and you'll probably have the accident before you break the halfshafts.
Yes, 86-88 Normally aspirated FC has a clutch type LSD. It’s a drop in into any 1.8 Miata front diff housing with ring gear. You will need to set back lash and preload. 89-91 is a VLSD and not really desirable.
On car-part.com Miata diffs are listed as "locking" or "w/o locking". Which one refers to a torsen? Do you know of a better used car part resource for sourcing differentials in North America?
"Locking" can probably be used as a substitute for LSD in this case. Since Torsens are so hard to identify from their behavior, it may be better to play "spot the Torsen by looking at the car options" game.
@@jamesfcookjr We talk about the viscous LSD in the video. Short version: better than an open diff, but not the best LSD. The biggest problem is the small ring gear is weak, so it's common to yank the whole thing out and replace it with parts from a 1994 or later car including a Torsen.
I know hardly anyone watches these videos but they're the primary reason why I buy things from you and recommend that other people do, too.
Thanks so much, we appreciate that!
Very informative video Keith. After a good deal of research and instruction from people who have done diff changes many times, I am putting a 3.6 ring and pinion on my MSM torsen. Love the Pink Floyd reference. 😁
@JoeCool2342 The 3.6 rear gear does pair very well with the 6 speed gearing!
Excellent overview and information. Its easy to see why FM is the best source for Miata parts and services.
Thank you for the kind words!
Lots of diff questions. Thanks for taking the extra time to answer them, I had many of the same questions.
My little NA6 has the visco-diff, it seems it will be fine with the mighty 115hp that car is producing. But now i'm better informed on it all. Thanks FM, these vids are great and im already looking at your store with big eyes!
Viscous is not torque sensing but wheel speed sensing. They need a difference in wheel speed to start locking. Therefore viscous slip diffs are slower to respond.
Yup. This is why, if you boot it round a corner with a VLSD, it just won’t lock, because the wheel speeds haven’t changed. If you clutch kick, all of a sudden the wheel speeds are different in relation to each other and it “locks” … somewhat.
On the note of the 3.3 ring and pinion, i do believe Mfactory now sell a 3.3:1, for anyone curious about doing 280km/h with enough power and lack of self preservation
@perplexed2352 Thanks for sharing!
What I'm taking away from these videos is that the NC is perfect as-is and that's why no one ever talks about us.
We've got a lot of NC stuff coming up, keep an eye out!
think u r wrong I watch ALL the video out of flyin miata . Been a tech for 30 yrs and I learn still from their video and word.
Has FM made a video on seam welding the targa miata? I want to seam weld my NA and would benefit greatly with a video on how it's done, were to weld and what not to do. I saw the info on the website.. I just think a video would be super cool..
I use 309L stainless welding TIG rod. Weld the body at 75 amps. I use a Lincoln Square Wave Tig welder and Argon gas. Weld one inch at a time to minimize warp and Pliojig to absorb the heat if you can get it. or some form of clay. Works fine
Thoriated Tungsten 3/32 or smaller. Very Sharp tungsten tip. I weld at 8 psi for stainless and mild steel tig welding
3:30 I think an open differential sends equal torque to both wheels (As for power, that means it sends more power to the faster wheel (P = Fv).)
As far as rx7 housings, oiling isn't an issue. There is only a slight difference in the s4 mating surface where as the s5 is nearly identical to the 1.8 housing. The s4 is also around 2lbs lighter since the s5 is only marginally thicker. You cannot use the "pumpkin" from an rx7 without a custom driveshaft and mounting solution for the diff. I actually just put a clutch pack from an rx7 into my miata as well as the rx7 housing. The rx7 housing lacks the breaking notch too so it's a lot better for tracking the car as well as it will survive an impact. I already had one break from being rear ended.
Thanks for watching!
That stuck in a snowbank use the e-brake trick is an old VW exercise. Get your mate to stand on the rear bumper, a little e-brake and off you go.
Thank you tanner, I have several of your miata books and enjoy you all putting this
See video out and all the others. I have 2005 miata speed and enjoy the part selection you all carry.
Dan from Alaska
That Hamilton Futura is super class
Focus now. The topic is Differentials😁
How about a video of putting in new diff seals.
There’s one video how to rebuild a whole diff but not just seals: mainly pinion shaft seal and crush sleeve
Thanks for the suggestion! We can't promise each video idea will be fulfilled, but we've added your suggestion to our list of future video ideas.
@@FlyinMiataVideo no problem but to know how or a trick to doing it and not upsetting the crush sleeve or smoking the bearings and diff would be pretty awesome as it’s a wear part that has to be replaced and these rear ends are getting harder to find so service prices are going up since there’s no education out there on it
Iv been told you can’t take the pinion nut off without knowing the torque as Iv also watched on RUclips people put the nut back on with an impact gun haha
can you guys talk about why early 90 models have a different clutch slave vs later 90 models?
49:24 Setting a calendar reminder to come back to this video in 2032 🗓
I can answer the rx7 question. The diffs are essentially the same as na rx7s with the exception of the pinion length and axle shafts. The covers and mounting ears are basically identical....again the turbo rx7 stuff uses the larger 7 inch ring gear so that has to match. A lot of miata guys swap in the rx7 turbo clutch types which are very strong. The stub shafts and driveshafts would have to be custom.
Can you do a step by step diff assembly with how to set all clearances and pinion preload and so on? Miata na/nb specific
FC rx7 NA and turbo diff carriers bolt onto mx5 na/nb pumpkins. people swap them because they are stronger and dont have the notch where miata diffs crack. i have a msm pumpkin on an fc diff carrier and the carrier has welded plates and poly diff bushings from a miata, running insane shafts on it. drives like a dream!!!
I'm watching as many of your videos as I can and I don't even have a Miata yet!
However, this is the reason why I'm watching your vids, because I'm in the market for a Miata, just not sure which one yet. I was looking at 911's, but the maintenance and repair costs can be as much as a used Miata....fun factors are the same too!
So if you're looking for ideas on what do show/film, do one on a V8 installation on an ND.
I know, I know that would take some time, difficult since you may not have a V8 project now to video. BUT if you make a video on it as a purchase video it may be worth your efforts.
And, I would purchase a used ND ASAP and bring it to you for the project....just saying!
All your installation videos are great, although most are on NA and NBs, so please show more on the NC and NDs.
I already have a list of things I'll be purchasing from FM once I get my Miata, which most likely will be an ND.
Keep up the Great Work, it's greatly appreciated!
Thank you for all you do!
We already have a full V8 install series on an ND - check our channel! We also have a number of ND-specific installation videos for everything from rear view cameras to suspension components.
Can you do one about brakes
-how total piston area + brake system pressure are ultimately what affect clamping force (not number of pistons, though they help to better distribute that pressure)
-what the difference is between different types of brake pads (semi metallic, metallic, ceramic, carbon, etc.) and their characteristics (Mu vs temperature, heat capacity, etc.)
-rotors (size vs brake torque, mass vs heat capacity, importance of cooling vanes and their design)
How to compare and evaluate braking systems (braking systems equivalent of horsepower in the "other" direction, how much energy you can dump into the braking system in a given amount of time and how much energy you can reject from the braking system into the ambient environment)
Most importantly, how tires factor into the equation as they are the mechanism by which brake torque is ultimately converted into "stopping force"
We did a video on "Performance Brake Theory" and another on brake hydraulics in the past year.
@@FlyinMiataVideo oh right, you did, completely forgot about that one !!
Do a bit on all of the coolant reroute options and their pros vs cons!
They already have a install video for their reroute kit. It’s really in dept maybe try give that a watch!
@@jesper98 It really only talks about one option.
@@frenchmanremy We've done three videos on reroutes: general theory, specifics on the FM solution and installation.
We won't do one on competitor products, we prefer to educate our audience on how things work and then give the features of our own.
We have found that when a company talks about products from a different company, there is rarely accurate information presented.
@@FlyinMiataVideo I want to know what happens to cylinder 1 when we reroute coolant to cylinder 4. Are we know making 1 hotter??
@@glenjamindle Slightly, although it's better to have all four cylinders as close to the same temperature as possible.
I'd love to see some time stamps on these videos 😀
I know some companies sell larger housings for the rear differentials on Miata’s to get more fluid in there for cooling and lubrication. I was wondering if you could post a video about that or at least explain the process of doing this. Thanks!
It's very very good information for mx5 owners thank you
I have a really big question and I'm getting ready to undergo this. I'm swapping a 43 gear ratio onto the 36 differential. I was wondering if you guys could do a video on that if or if that's something you guys do but it's something I'll be doing and I was wondering if you guys go to elaborate more on what it can and can't do for the car a positive negatives please if it's something you guys will be willing to do much appreciated. Thank you!
That's not something we do very often and we don't have any plans to do a video on it, but there is a writeup in the garage section of Miata.net on how to set up a ring and pinion. If you're worried about the setup, a local driveline shop can probably do it for you at a reasonable cost.
@flyin' Miata is there a video on how to choose spring rates vs sway bar rates? How do you know which one you stiffen?
We haven't done a video like that, but the book "How To Build a High Performance Miata" has a good breakdown on how springs and sways affect the car's ride and handling.
I put a os giken in my 07 nc auto. Made it difficult to drive with the traction control on as it would set it off all the time. Turn the dsc off and its good ,really good😀. Other thing I think although it may be subjective it seems to work better on turn in with less tendency to partial lockup /grab one wheel as opposed to the factory open diff? Does that sound plausible? Btw great series vids.
How about a complete engine rebuild series or maybe a engine built for boost series
I know of a new boost built engine for sale now 1.8 8.5:1 compression done 3500. Located in Utah. Gabe sold his Miata and bought a Z06
Bought a 1.8 from him, just put it in my NA today. We'll see how she runs!
Hi, could you make a video about intake systems, throttle body differences and intakes across the years/ engine range, and which works for na and fi.
Cheers
Eliminator was like a legend. I've spent hours drooling over pictures of his car.
Love these vids, keep em coming!
Small correction at 3:10. With an open diff, both wheels always get the same amount of torque. So if one wheel is spinning and has low grip, the other wheel will get an equally low amount of torque.
FC non-turbo RX-7 -- the rear aluminum carrier is the same as the NA8 / NB diff (but with different rubber mounting bushings).
Yes it is. Doing that housing with a torsen and an Aussie 3.6 final drive for my 99 right now
I have a 2004 mx-5 Mazdaspeed with the Little Enchilada package and my diff destroyed itself somehow. Either I hit something or a gear came loose. The case was destroyed. Dealer said he had never heard of that happening. Cost me several thousand for a used one. Car was driven gently serviced properly and around 50k miles.
I want to upgrade my Miata NA 1.6 open diff now😂
Torsens & Helical Diffs do NOT operate on a worm gear worm wheel basis. This is the most common misconception about Torsens. If you build a diff using worm wheels and worm gears it will 100% be able to lock the diff even with one wheel off the ground.
The theory behind "worm wheels can't drive worm gears" is of course correct but the helical gears inside a Torsen/Quaife/Helical Diff are NOT worm gears (clearly evident by looking at it's cross section down the axis of rotation, you will see many teeth if you look at the gears inside a Torsen/Quaife/Helical diff but if you do the same thing to a worm gear, you only see one tooth).
How Torsens/Helical Diffs ultimately operate is related though not the same, the angle of engagement between the gears in the differential create a thrust force through its axis of rotation into the casing itself, this creates a tremendous amount of force and friction.
It's this friction that allows the differential to operate in the limited slip condition.
The angle at which these helical gears are cut and meshed are ultimately what affect the torque bias ratio of the differential.
For 400+ hp V8 swaps, would you recommend the Ford 8.8 or the GM Getrag
We like the Getrag because it's lighter and packages better. There have been no differential failures of the Getrag in Miata applications that we know of.
If I had a genie, I'd wish for an incredible LSD for the 2014 Mk3 GT Auto. Or at least an answer to why an open is on the automatics instead of an LSD.
What's the difference from a solid spool to a welded open diff ? I have a welded diff in my nbfl and It still handles / turns quite well so I'm interested in knowing why a solid spool makes such a difference
A welded diff is a spool from a functional standpoint, we don't discriminate between them.
What's the torque bias ratio of the ND club LSD?
It's not a clutch type as those need servicing somewhat frequently so surely they must be torsen (or some other helical, Quaife type)
It's a Tochigi Fuji "super-LSD", like all Miata LSDs since 2001 or so. Torque bias ratio is 2.0 according to Mazda's documentation.
@@FlyinMiataVideo
Ah yes I found some info myself shortly after posting my comment.
The "super lsd" is actually a pretty shit design compared to the older torsen units (both in bias ratio and fundamental design). It's using effectively a "friction washer" (they call it the taper ring) between the differential casing and side gears which "bind" under power ONLY as it relies on the thrust force generated from the pinion gear/side gear interaction (effectively a really shitty 1 way clutch type lsd with 1 clutch/friction plate)
I guess with stock power and grippier modern tires we don't "need" as much torque bias as older NA and NBs which had torsens.... Atleast that's what I tell myself for why Mazda would use this over a torsen or Quaife which is similarly low maintenance.
I guess FM is no longer selling the clutch pack diff?
I could not find it n the website.
I realize the video is 3yrs old, lol.
Not anymore, unfortunately!
I found a NC sport with 5 speed that has an open diff. Really low miles and babied-it’s a PRHT. I live in an area with a lot of bad bumpy roads and twisty roads. I kind of wanted an lsd. Would there be a huge difference in handling with the open and lsd? How much do you think it would cost me to add the lsd? Unfortunately I’m not a mechanic so would need to hire someone to do it.
You probably wouldn't notice an LSD most of the time, especially if you're not planning on taking your car to the track and pushing it hard.
If you found an LSD out of a wrecked car and gave the entire pumpkin to your mechanic to swap, they'll probably charge you 4 or 5 hours in labor if we were to guess.
Does flyin Miata sell an aftermarket lsd?
@@treeskier802not at this time.
What would a good diff be for occasional drifting but mostly daily driver ND1?
OS Giken makes the best diff on the market. Any car.
You said torsen diffs behave like open diffs, when you spin a wheel with both wheels raised. Does that also go for the Miata Viscous LSD??
My 2019 Club 6 speed automatic does not have LSD. Would there be any warranty issue if I installed an LSD? Any drive train mods, or just a drop in?
Not a reply exactly; I'm interested in the answer also. Looking closely (even getting transportation quotes) at a 2019 GT 6AT and just discovered that Mazda didn't put LSDs in any auto. Would really prefer one! I think I heard him say that there could be warranty issues and dealers probably reluctant to do the work.
@@davidshaughnessy8713 In order for a warranty claim to be denied, the modified parts have to cause the problem. So if you had a differential problem (or something closely related) after installing an LSD, you'd be on your own. But if you had an engine problem, it would still be under warranty.
I have an nd 1.5 132 hp with open diff and I want to install an lsd too, so it's just a replacement or there are mods to do?
lol Keith, the name on your lab coat is priceless.
What about sourcing the Belleville washers inside the torsen type 2 diffs. Does flying miata sell these?
We don't sell those specifically, but feel free to reach out to our customer support team. They'd be happy to help point you in the right direction.
How to adjust ramp angles for street
What is this stroker kit you mention for the 1.6?
what is usual initial torque for lsd torsen for mx5 nd
I have a 99 1.8 Miata 5 speed with a 4.3/1 Torson differential, can I just put in 3.6 to 3.9/1 gears in so I can put in a 6 speed or does the entire diff need to be changed. I am tired of 4000 RPM at 60 MPH. I need another gear. Good at stop lights but fatiguing on the freeway.
Yes, you can replace just the ring and pinion. It'll take proper setup. The 4.1 is a good match to the 5-speed on a naturally aspirated engine. A 3.9 will certainly take some sparkle out of the car and a 3.6 will likely make it a dog.
The point is I want the range of a 6 speed but with a 6 speed and my current 4.3 to one rear I would be revving at higher rpm in 6th than I now am in 5th I want an overdrive 6th 4000 rpm at 60mph is annoying. That is why I want a 6 speed unless somebody makes an overdrive system which would give me a 10 speed.@@FlyinMiataVideo
Sorry, missed the part about the 6 speed. Yes, use a 3.9 or 3.6 with that.
With that current rear end that car gets barely over 30 MPG on the highway. My 6 speed 600HP at the wheels GT500 gets 24mpg on the highway. Although handling wise there is not much that can keep up with my Miata in tight corners with racing suspension from the factory and no factory AC. People that have tried overshoot the corner because I am around it before they can even respond. I need to use power to go around corners in my Cobra and tight ones no way would it keep up even with 600HP. The only vehicle I have that could keep up is my racing motorcycle but it would take more skill and courage than I have to do it.@@FlyinMiataVideo
but can you drift more easily with locked diffs?
Does combining an open diff with RB front and rear sway bars along with DIY Billies and the “dual duty” SuperMiata alignment make for a bad time?
Not inherently. Or more accurately, the choice of spring rates and how well they're matched to the shocks are probably going to be more important overall.
Are the Global Cup cars running the Tochigi Fuji differential?
I believe they are, but they are running differential coolers to prevent failures. The important thing about the Global Cup cars is that they're all the same - their equipment may not be the best in terms of performance, but as long as it's consistent across the whole pack and reliable it makes for good racing.
I have a stock 2003 miata . What kind of diff do I have and what fluid should I put in it ?
This can be a little tricky to spot depending on the trim and what previous owners have done to the car. If Keith's video didn't give you what you needed to know, would you please reach out to our customer support team directly via phone or email? They'd be happy to give you some pointers on how to tell the diffs apart, as well as recommendations for fluids. Thanks!
What diff for a RF ND with an auto? And why didn't mazda offer it on the GT's
Mazda has never put LSDs on automatic Miatas. You'll have to ask them why.
I have a 92 NA. Living in south-east ALBERTA I spend a lot of time at 120 kmh with is not fun.
What miata diff should I look for to lower the rpm or should I swap in a Cadillac diff?
First off, it's not hurting your car. Miata owners have been worried about high rpm highway use for 30 years, and it hasn't been a problem yet.
The easy solution would be the 4.1 out of a 1994-97. You'll need the driveshaft, driveshaft bolts and halfshafts out of a 1.8 Miata as well. That can even get you a Torsen. You could also go with a 3.9 out of a 1999-03 6-speed car, but that little 1.6 is going to lose some acceleration in exchange. I would stay away from the 3.2 Cadillac rears even if they were an easy install.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks for the info.
It might not hurt the car but it sure is hard on my ears. LOL
I know it'll hurt acceleration but It's just a fun cruiser for now. I plan to add one of your turbo kits when money allows which should get some of it back and in the meantime time I can enjoy the drive to cruise/shows.
I am trying to drift my nb casually - should I go for torsen or weld the open diff? Will the torsen lock both wheels when oversteering?
Don't weld the diff. Just don't.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks for the answer. Mind sharing an alternative if I want to slide it on the weekends?
@@CODxPHIL Use a Torsen or a clutch pack. We're not drift specialists so you'll have to find out elsewhere which is preferable - I suspect the clutch pack.
Running a welded diff (aka spool) on the street will lead to huge understeer and you'll probably have the accident before you break the halfshafts.
I know you guys work with any Miata but, what is you guys favorite?
You'll get a different answer from anyone you ask.
Different turbos topic?
Does the spacer on front of the diff wear out?
The one on the pinion behind the drive flange? No.
What is the Lego model you used?
"24 hour race car", model 42039. I chose it because it had a good view of the differential!
does the oem clutch pack lsd from rx7 fit the miata?
I seem to recall that it does (for a specific value of both RX7 and Miata), but it's not something we've ever played with.
Yes, 86-88 Normally aspirated FC has a clutch type LSD. It’s a drop in into any 1.8 Miata front diff housing with ring gear. You will need to set back lash and preload. 89-91 is a VLSD and not really desirable.
On car-part.com Miata diffs are listed as "locking" or "w/o locking". Which one refers to a torsen? Do you know of a better used car part resource for sourcing differentials in North America?
"Locking" can probably be used as a substitute for LSD in this case. Since Torsens are so hard to identify from their behavior, it may be better to play "spot the Torsen by looking at the car options" game.
open diff actually send the same amount of torque to both wheel so the unloaded wheel will spin faster.
How good is a 4.3 LSD 🤔
Depends on what it is. 4.3 is the ring and pinion ratio.
@@FlyinMiataVideo The only thing I know so far it’s a LSD viscous MK1
@@jamesfcookjr We talk about the viscous LSD in the video. Short version: better than an open diff, but not the best LSD. The biggest problem is the small ring gear is weak, so it's common to yank the whole thing out and replace it with parts from a 1994 or later car including a Torsen.
@@FlyinMiataVideo ok thanks I will run it until I break it or if I find another one I picked this one up for 100 bucks anyways but thank you
@@jamesfcookjr The viscous LSD uses different stub shafts than the open 1990-93 differential, so make sure you get those as well.
Video ideas: RX8 to NC wheel hubs and bearings.
"Unbolt and bolt the new ones on". It would be short :)
IIRC the NC got the upgraded bearings during one of the refreshes.
Why doesn't "IKEA Råskog" deserve a diff?
"Gi-ken" not "Gai-ken"