Thank you. It's my first time changing spark plugs or doing any type of work on a car and you went step by step and made it not so intimidating to try it.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video! Made it easy to change my ignition coils and spark plugs =D I was worried about doing it myself but seeing it start to finish through you was fantastic.
Awesome video! Question, on attempt of removal of the 10mm nut for the negative cable on the coil. It snapped off. Both nuts are stuck together on the screw. Any suggestions to further proceed?
If the wire broke off for the 10 mm ring terminal for the coil you may need to fabricate a new one and rewire a new wire for that. You can try spraying penetrating oil to remove the other nut. You will probably need two wrenches together or one wrench and a socket to hold the other nut to get them free.
@@moosemobileautorepair could I cut off the wire from a junk yard vehicle and just take the circular copper ring and recrimp it on my vehicle? Or it has to be soldered?
Yeah, that could work. It doesn't have to be soldered. You can crimp it or solder either way works fine. You can make your own with a gauge wire that's the same or thicker than the one on the vehicle and that should work fine. You can find ring terminals at a hardware or part store and just use a length of wire to join to the old one. Cut off where it's bad on the old one and hopefully you still have enough length of wire on the vehicle to attach a new one.
@@moosemobileautorepair I really appreciate your advice! I’ll be working on that tomorrow. I was attempting to do a compression test in my vehicle and seems I’m just adding work to my plate! Also, when attempting to do a compression test, I turned the key so the vehicle could turn over for 10 or 15 seconds to build compression and all the vehicle does is it just shutters and all the dash lights flicker, as if the battery is low. I put a jump box to the battery and it still does the same thing. I cleaned off the battery terminals before I attempted to turn the vehicle over due to blue powder that had accumulated on the better. I know it’s hard to diagnose without actually seen the vehicle but what do you think?
Lol, more work indeed. Let me know how it goes. As for the compression test 10 to 15 seconds is way too long on a cylinder. Cranking the engine for extended periods for a compression test could damage the main computer of the vehicle. If your Volkswagen is a gasoline engine you will hear the steady rhythmic tone of the pistons going up and down while cranking usually around 4 to 5 seconds is enough of cranking while holding down on the accelerator all the way to the floor to allow air through otherwise you will get a false reading. I do have a video on how to perform a compression test. ruclips.net/video/67Bzr1VzfsA/видео.htmlsi=i7yxk29zSpmWyIVn
It's going... I would check and test the camshaft sensor on the side of the timing cover on those models as they often go bad on those. Other than that I would check for any vacuum leaks and if there is a misfire as well. Many things can cause idle hunting so you may need a high level scan tool to analyze the data first. Meanwhile, I would check the obvious. Things like a bad pcv valve, ignition coil, spark plugs, low fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, carbon build up in the intake system, etc. can all cause that.
Hey Moose! I was changing the spark plugs on my 2016 VW Jetta GLI. couple issues. I ripped the first ground wire because the two nuts were stuck together. And secondly I broke two of the tabs on the connectors. What are my options for fixing those?
You will need to rewire a new wire for the ground connection with a ring terminal of some sort. You can cut off where it's bad if there's enough wire and extend it. For the ignition coil connectors depending how bad it's broken. You could connect them back and leave it as is if there's no problems that way. Otherwise, you would need replacement connectors and you would need to remove the pins inside the connector with a special tool to install the new one and possibly rewire the new one unless you are able to connect the connector itself with the original wiring. There are some kits that are available out there, not sure if the dealer might have some.
Hello again, question do you work Mercedes Benz! If so I have buddy or neighbor with a s 320 1998 and I scanned it the code is p0341 ,but he replaced already and the code won't erase. What say you about that! The camshaft postion senor that is was replaced but wont erase, so i scanned and also the mils appeared , cat eva air 0S2 HTR. BUT the car runs fine for now
I do work on Mercedes-Benz, but not as often as I normally do compared to other vehicles. P0341 is a camshaft range/performance code. I would double check the air gap where the sensor bolts on between the sensor and the engine where it goes into sometimes if the sensor is not installed correctly or on a very slight angle it could cause that code to trip. Also, if you used a different aftermarket brand of sensor instead of the original OEM that could cause problems too. I would also check for any oil leaks getting into that area and also check and test the wiring where the connector goes into to see if it's good. If the car runs relatively OK and is not misfiring or hesitating or anything I would double check the wiring and the sensor itself. For problems like this sometimes it can be a good idea to scope the sensor signal to see what it is putting out and compare to a known good. In worse case you would have to rule out a mechanical/timing problem as well and in some cases the cam actuator/phaser could also be bad. You would have to do some diagnostic and investigation work to figure it out. I hope that helps.
It's pretty insane just to think about it for one spark plug. It's beyond belief. Most expensive plugs I've seen on the planet so far around 50 dollars CAD. Thanks for the info!
Hey good morning Moose. I have a question for you of course answer at your leisure as always, here are the details: I have a question for you , I have a toyota corrolla s 2007 with 232228 and I purchased a innova 5610 scanner, so I did a live data scan while In idle and Im gettig a value of 99.16 (%) O2FT B1S2 can explain you that,should I be concerned?
Lamda is referred to as the stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1 which is 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. So Lamda will always have a value of 1 also called Equivalence Ratio on some scan tools. Ideally you want Lamda to be as close to 1.00 as possible or near it which is what you want. Anything below 1.00 is lean (more air less fuel) and anything above 1.00 is rich (more fuel). But 99.16 on the scan tool means that it is close to 1 which is good. It means it is running slightly lean. There is nothing to worry about since that particular value is normal.
@@moosemobileautorepair read something about but I wanted to be come firmed thanks moose your awesome! Enjoy your day! I'm waiting on my clock spring to arrive so I can install it , can't wait!
It’s worth noting that you can know buy a spark plug socket with a magnet built in the end, this will hold the plug correctly in the socket while you screw the plug by hand
You could use a couple of wrenches if you're able to get in there. One to hold the bottom nut while you use the other to remove the other nut. In some cases you may need to hold down on the coil by hand or hold the stud without damaging the threads so that it doesn't spin. Let me know if any of that works.
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Thank you. It's my first time changing spark plugs or doing any type of work on a car and you went step by step and made it not so intimidating to try it.
Great job explaining every detail thanks!
Life saver sir! Thanks for the lessons!
Thanks for taking the time to do this video! Made it easy to change my ignition coils and spark plugs =D I was worried about doing it myself but seeing it start to finish through you was fantastic.
Glad it helped!
Thank you very much
You D'best! Thank you. Nice work!
Saved to favorites ! 👌💯
Excellent! 😀
One thing i would say is some Volkswagen jetta some spark plus have two lines of connection so just make sure to take pictures of how it was set up
Awesome video! Question, on attempt of removal of the 10mm nut for the negative cable on the coil. It snapped off. Both nuts are stuck together on the screw. Any suggestions to further proceed?
If the wire broke off for the 10 mm ring terminal for the coil you may need to fabricate a new one and rewire a new wire for that. You can try spraying penetrating oil to remove the other nut. You will probably need two wrenches together or one wrench and a socket to hold the other nut to get them free.
@@moosemobileautorepair could I cut off the wire from a junk yard vehicle and just take the circular copper ring and recrimp it on my vehicle? Or it has to be soldered?
Yeah, that could work. It doesn't have to be soldered. You can crimp it or solder either way works fine. You can make your own with a gauge wire that's the same or thicker than the one on the vehicle and that should work fine.
You can find ring terminals at a hardware or part store and just use a length of wire to join to the old one. Cut off where it's bad on the old one and hopefully you still have enough length of wire on the vehicle to attach a new one.
@@moosemobileautorepair I really appreciate your advice! I’ll be working on that tomorrow. I was attempting to do a compression test in my vehicle and seems I’m just adding work to my plate!
Also, when attempting to do a compression test, I turned the key so the vehicle could turn over for 10 or 15 seconds to build compression and all the vehicle does is it just shutters and all the dash lights flicker, as if the battery is low. I put a jump box to the battery and it still does the same thing. I cleaned off the battery terminals before I attempted to turn the vehicle over due to blue powder that had accumulated on the better.
I know it’s hard to diagnose without actually seen the vehicle but what do you think?
Lol, more work indeed.
Let me know how it goes.
As for the compression test 10 to 15 seconds is way too long on a cylinder. Cranking the engine for extended periods for a compression test could damage the main computer of the vehicle. If your Volkswagen is a gasoline engine you will hear the steady rhythmic tone of the pistons going up and down while cranking usually around 4 to 5 seconds is enough of cranking while holding down on the accelerator all the way to the floor to allow air through otherwise you will get a false reading. I do have a video on how to perform a compression test.
ruclips.net/video/67Bzr1VzfsA/видео.htmlsi=i7yxk29zSpmWyIVn
How’s it going Moose?
I have a 2014 VW Jetta SE 1.8 I was wondering if you knew why when I drive my car my rpm goes up and down?
It's going... I would check and test the camshaft sensor on the side of the timing cover on those models as they often go bad on those. Other than that I would check for any vacuum leaks and if there is a misfire as well. Many things can cause idle hunting so you may need a high level scan tool to analyze the data first. Meanwhile, I would check the obvious. Things like a bad pcv valve, ignition coil, spark plugs, low fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, carbon build up in the intake system, etc. can all cause that.
Hey Moose! I was changing the spark plugs on my 2016 VW Jetta GLI. couple issues. I ripped the first ground wire because the two nuts were stuck together. And secondly I broke two of the tabs on the connectors. What are my options for fixing those?
You will need to rewire a new wire for the ground connection with a ring terminal of some sort. You can cut off where it's bad if there's enough wire and extend it.
For the ignition coil connectors depending how bad it's broken. You could connect them back and leave it as is if there's no problems that way. Otherwise, you would need replacement connectors and you would need to remove the pins inside the connector with a special tool to install the new one and possibly rewire the new one unless you are able to connect the connector itself with the original wiring. There are some kits that are available out there, not sure if the dealer might have some.
Hello again, question do you work Mercedes Benz! If so I have buddy or neighbor with a s 320 1998 and I scanned it the code is p0341 ,but he replaced already and the code won't erase. What say you about that! The camshaft postion senor that is was replaced but wont erase, so i scanned and also the mils appeared , cat eva air 0S2 HTR. BUT the car runs fine for now
I do work on Mercedes-Benz, but not as often as I normally do compared to other vehicles. P0341 is a camshaft range/performance code. I would double check the air gap where the sensor bolts on between the sensor and the engine where it goes into sometimes if the sensor is not installed correctly or on a very slight angle it could cause that code to trip. Also, if you used a different aftermarket brand of sensor instead of the original OEM that could cause problems too. I would also check for any oil leaks getting into that area and also check and test the wiring where the connector goes into to see if it's good. If the car runs relatively OK and is not misfiring or hesitating or anything I would double check the wiring and the sensor itself.
For problems like this sometimes it can be a good idea to scope the sensor signal to see what it is putting out and compare to a known good. In worse case you would have to rule out a mechanical/timing problem as well and in some cases the cam actuator/phaser could also be bad. You would have to do some diagnostic and investigation work to figure it out. I hope that helps.
@@moosemobileautorepair thanks moose yes it did!
$30 CAD isn't that much more expensive then your average ones here in the US. At least for my jetta, expensive ones were around $60 CAD per plug
It's pretty insane just to think about it for one spark plug. It's beyond belief. Most expensive plugs I've seen on the planet so far around 50 dollars CAD. Thanks for the info!
Hey good morning Moose. I have a question for you of course answer at your leisure as always, here are the details:
I have a question for you , I have a toyota corrolla s 2007 with 232228 and I purchased a innova 5610 scanner, so I did a live data scan while In idle and Im gettig a value of 99.16 (%) O2FT B1S2 can explain you that,should I be concerned?
Lamda is referred to as the stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1 which is 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. So Lamda will always have a value of 1 also called Equivalence Ratio on some scan tools.
Ideally you want Lamda to be as close to 1.00 as possible or near it which is what you want. Anything below 1.00 is lean (more air less fuel) and anything above 1.00 is rich (more fuel). But 99.16 on the scan tool means that it is close to 1 which is good. It means it is running slightly lean. There is nothing to worry about since that particular value is normal.
@@moosemobileautorepair read something about but I wanted to be come firmed thanks moose your awesome! Enjoy your day! I'm waiting on my clock spring to arrive so I can install it , can't wait!
Thanks. Good to hear. Good luck on the repairs.
I have one like that jetta . how can i change my throttle position sensor is so hard please tell me how much does cost it
It’s worth noting that you can know buy a spark plug socket with a magnet built in the end, this will hold the plug correctly in the socket while you screw the plug by hand
where i’m having trouble is getting the nuts off that are on top of the ground because the bottom nut wants to spin too. what should i do
You could use a couple of wrenches if you're able to get in there. One to hold the bottom nut while you use the other to remove the other nut. In some cases you may need to hold down on the coil by hand or hold the stud without damaging the threads so that it doesn't spin. Let me know if any of that works.
@@moosemobileautorepair do you know the usual size i would need for the bottom one
They should be 10 mm in size.
You'll probably need a thin (low profile) 10mm wrench for the bottom bolt. A regular thickness wrench won't fit.
I had seized nuts too..going to have to find a thin 10mm wrench to hold bottom nut.