How do you change rear drum brake shoes on a Vauxhall Corsa?
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- Changing the rear drum brake shoes on a 2011 Vauxhall Corsa 5-door.
It being a 5-door is important as the shoes are different sizes depending on 3-door or 5-door! 
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You couldn't pay me to work on a car balanced on a piece of wood at 45 degrees! You sir are a brave man
I was thinking the same😃😃
Just noticed the same. Absolute nutter
Isn't it sitting on the jack AND on the hydraulic lifter?
One other point with a binding brake is the danger of a brake-away in icy or snowy conditions and the subsequent loss of control of the car.
Great video thanks.
Thanks for the video. Very detailed and useful! Noticed the existing shoes weren't too bad compared to the new ones.
Thanks! Verry helpfull when the weather is getting better i wil try it myself tot the parts for like less than 150 euro's and then i got the rear pads. Rear Drums. Front discs. And brake pads. in front as wel thats crazy cheap if you see what the garage charges for al that stuff just amazing video
Brilliant video. I'm gonna be doing mine this weekend so will watch this a fair few times beforehand.
Thanks Gareth, hope it goes to plan! Watch the retaining screw which is the tricky bit not to round it off!
@@junkendriven thanks Andy, do you know what type/size it is?
Replaced my front and back springs and shocks and today replaced my from sway bar links, good job as ones I took off were WELL shot!!!!! this is my next job brakes front and rear, done it a few times just like to refresh my mind
Great news James, yeah the Corsa seems to eat front sway bars!
Cleaning the hub and the drum where they touch will make it easier to put back and remove and You can centralize the shoes by pulling the hand brake on a few times .
Great video helped me lots. Thank you
Great news, thanks for the feedback
Excellent explanation .Thanks
Excellent video
many thanks for taking the time to video,
2 ratchets, used simultaneously will make sure the hub comes off nice and level... Many thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great thinking, yeah getting the hub off straight will make it much easier
Very helpful video, thank you very much!
But I'm concerned about the safety of the operator with the trestle / jack stand with the piece of wood, supporting the car at that angle.
I think that should be corrected before one of your viewers apply the same technique and get hurt in the process.
Just had to fit some of those retaining clips. You can actually buy them in sets of four along with the springs. They are a bit tricky to fit but luckily I have a small G-clamp which came in very handy for that job. You just hook it to the shoe and wind it in from the back plate, which leave you with both hands free to do the job. If a G-clamp is not available a piece of wire eg a coat hanger cut to a U-shape slightly on the small side should do the trick.
Great info, thanks for contributing
Very good, thanks.
Good video,how big are the bolts to loosen the drums?thanks
brilliant! tnx a lot!
Hope it helps you out
Nice mate you've helped me out a lot regardless of the jacking technique i was more interested in the brakes. What size did you use for the replacement?
Great video and helped me so much. Although I did find pushing the clips in nose first under the lip of the pin a lot easier. 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for watching and the comments, yes a few ways with the clips, they're not easy!
Thank you👍
Hiya Andy I have a some problem on my car so the car is Corsa 2014 The coolant fan doesn’t come on automatic So I don’t know what I’m gonna do also show the mechanic didn’t know it’s a problem but I hope so you know because I watch your video
Regarding the video at 12:54 can cable ties be used to tension the shoe so the clip can be fitted with twohands?
I am a tyre fitter mechanic at kwik fit, plus advanced technician level 3 with BTEC qualification in motor vehicle from college but always ask for help off another colleague when adjusting the spring before putting shoe back on for double clarification on my alignment and test run. As simple job it looks, it ain't as difference between common modern car rear disc and pads is you ain't gotta worry about spring adjustments just the test run check but with older and less modern cars is you gotta worry with getting rear spring correct alignment right before taking it on first test run and it make a resisting noise with handbrake up slowly rolling back little quite often. Few times l been lucky, and other times l ain't as tuned out to be brake pipe, old contaminate fluid, cable leak etc that l didn't check when customer bought car in, and nearly getting caught out on it by my boss but just gotta roll on with it and always try second test run after quick diagnose fix on top of that to finally typing a brief summary of my findings along with what l ordered, and repaired in a detailed report down on computer, printing it out then to office and filling out paperwork in office ready for customer to pay and collect before signing out the car. Doing paperwork mostly all of time is not same as car repairing but one of the toughest job in any role at the garage as you gotta be brief and detailed on every diagnose finding possible, all this just for one issue often of correct alignment or another small issue during alignment which all time crops up to be bigger job that needed attention to is hard work but gotta do it for everyone stay happy ai lol.
Hiya buddy, thanks for contributing. Yeah not always an easy job and hats off to any mechanic doing this for a living, it's a tough job at times!
Keep doing what you're doing and please keep on commenting and subscribing, good to hear from professionals on the channel as I always admit I'm just a basic amateur doing car stuff!
@@junkendriven Hi, yeah working on older vintage cars shall l say is very hard work and a skill l lightly go on using other colleague with experience to supervise me, as with shoes also parts on vintage cars that doesnt come cheap for parts that dealerships gotta find nearly everywhere or create again isnt everyone confident skill, mess up on certain part and it tougher also longer job where that part would need either resembling or reordering because back in day our fathers and ancestors who were mechanics knew every each way to fix a shoe without going at it twice or test runs. Yeah, best way l started mate, got use to fixing cars in short run by going at it myself on my cousin car scrap yard at 10 years old, then doing lot of work placements at 12 to 16 before old enough for college but today, l gotta admit that l still am a amature from college learning more and more about cars when they keep bringing in new city & guilds, BTEC and level qualifications for EV when renewing what we we taught but doing renewal of our basic levels is often a challenge worth completing, from gaining upper insight knowledge in manufacturers of EV motors.
Like the video Andy
how many miles did it have? thanks
Apply a little anti seize on the hub before you put drum back on and it comes off easily every time, I also read the drum brakes are self adjusting so it automatically sets into the perfect setting itself
Thanks for a very informative video.
More informative: www fiatforum com/threads/rear-drum-strip-and-clean.235078/post-4532867
A very clear - no fuss video. Fantastic, thank you. I hate doing rear brakes - made it look straight forward.
Quick update - did the rear brakes last weekend - video really helped - thank you
Hi Andy wondering when more videos on your volvo 480 as interesting to watch and learn as my mate just bought a volvo 480 es that's been of road parked up over 10years so we like to see more from u.. Ps hope ur got a better mic and quality pictures. On volvo. Cheers
Hi Balbir, thanks for watching and commenting.
Yes, some new videos on the Volvo480 in the next couple of week, this year is exciting for it as we'll be getting it roadworthy. Hope yours is in decent shape, what engine?
And yes, new GoPro and better microphone should help too! Thanks for subscribing and let me know anything specific you'd like to see.
@@junkendriven thanks for your reply and our volvo is the 480 celebration model with 2.0 petrol and turbo alloys but unfortunately been of the road for 14 years and am trying to learn much more about it and find content on utube to watch. My head light lights not pop up up but can see the light on but they just don't pop up and i love the digital fuel gauge and its fully working.. But only had it few days so hopefully it's work in progress bit by bit hence contacting you Andy.
Great.
Look identical to my 2012 Doblo van. Bonus as not much out there video wise for those.
Good info there, thanks for sharing
I used a large flat bladed screwdriver on the horseshoe retaining clips to depress the prongs to engage under the flange of the pin whilst getting ready to shove it home with a pair of pliers holding the base. I would recommend disengaging the ratchet tooth with a screwdriver in one hand and turning the barrel of the adjuster with the other. Some of the the teeth are made of cheese. You can go backwards or forwards them in complete mechanical sympathy until you find the Goldilocks zone.
Good video, but that axle stand is a bit dangerous ?
Aye, couple others mentioned and I did know at the time it was a bit dicey, I'm sure I had the jack there as backup too but thanks for the comment :-)
Andy after fitting your new brake shoes did you have problems with handbrake adjustments. I replaced my shoes with a complete kit and could not get the hand brake to adjust on pull the hand brake on it went up to the roof. Put the old set back on everything was perfect. On the old brake shoes the handbrake cable spring goes over a pin and locks in place by a small lever and puts tension on the spring. Now when watching your video the hand brake cable spring end looks to have a small gap and no tension. On my set of new brake shoes same as yours this cable spring does not seem to lock anywhere in place, I must have tried all combination and would not work? to me this is a poor design on replacement shoes by manufacture cutting costs any ideas if I did anything wrong Andy? Please my old brake shoes still had some meet on them.
Hi Gary, yes most replacement parts aren't quite a standard fit so you do need to sometimes fix things differently.
The spring for the handbrake, you need to pull back quite a bit of spring first (I used pliers) and then push the rounded end through the gap, then pull it round and into the little gap for it. The spring end that was attached on original I pulled round and rested it on the brake shoe so it's secure. That's just to stop it coming free. You should feel a little tension on the brake cable pretty much at all times. After that go and carefully try your brake lever, you should get resistance and see travel on the spring. Keep trying, you just need the position right and it'll sort of all snap together
Drop me an email, contact@junkendriven.org with photos and I'll help if I can, but remember any doubt and get a professional to check since it's your brakes
Rear drum brakes are sensitive to:
- self-adjuster condition (operation, bimetal part),
- handbrake linkages (if they are old, stretched, or damaged - "just" a shield broken will spoil the brakes),
- last thing is hydraulics (hoses, cylinders).
So handbrake can spoil the main brake (hydraulic) and the other way round.
i have a question about the self adjuster part at the top, i have a mk2 focus, an old one, but the rear breaks are drums and look exactally like yours, i have seen a few videos where people are winding the adjuster all the way in, and then your way where you just move it back over to the new shoes.
Wouldn't this be incorrect ?, my understanding was you had to turn the adjuster all the way back so it can self adjust for the new brakes ?
Ill be doing mine at the weekend. Cant seem to find an answer
Hi, sorry I'd missed this comment, but yes you are right, afterwards I did wind the adjuster back as you rightly point out it needs to be almost fully retracted to cope with the thickness of the new pads and will then extend out over the wear. Thanks for the pointer buddy and thanks for contributing
Be safe there called axle stands!!!
And maybe put your wheel under the sill incase it drops. Stay safe but good video
Fair points Jeff, can't remember the circumstances as I'm normally pretty standard with axle stands, tyre underneath, etc.
Thank you.
My Corsa does not have those little retaining screws, they must have decided to do away with them. Try as I may, I cannot get the drum off. It rotates freely enough, but it will not come off. A shame, as the rest of the work looks straight forward.
They do take a lot of force, work the handbrake a few times too to make sure the shoes have disengaged, keep working it away. Also look in the screw holes and make sure they've not snapped with a small amount left protruding (really common the screws snap) and if so you need to drill part of the screw out.
Just one thing - bolts m10 not too simple ..
May you use some special bolts ?
Bolts are called by the size of threads because you cant always assume the threads by the head size. A 13mm bolt is almost always m10 thread.
No idea who taught you to jack up a car and support it how you have but I think you need to address that. As for the brakes, we’ll done!
Колесо надо под машину ложиться а не под бампер. А этот подпор с доской в лоб тебе заедит будешь знать.
Not really very helpful when you struggle so much to refit the retaining clips you give up filming it and leave everyone to guess how it was done. The idea of videos such as this is to help give people the confidence to take these jobs on. So show the whole process, struggles and all!
And while we are at it lets not grease anything up...
Thanks! Verry helpfull when the weather is getting better i wil try it myself tot the parts for like less than 150 euro's and then i got the rear pads. Rear Drums. Front discs. And brake pads. in front as wel thats crazy cheap if you see what the garage charges for al that stuff just amazing video
Great news, yes it's not too difficult a job, just be ready for the time to get the drum off, that takes the time! Those two bolts help if the bolt holes aren't too badly corroded. Good luck, glad it helped you out
Thank you👍
Thanks! Verry helpfull when the weather is getting better i wil try it myself tot the parts for like less than 150 euro's and then i got the rear pads. Rear Drums. Front discs. And brake pads. in front as wel thats crazy cheap if you see what the garage charges for al that stuff just amazing video
You can get all the tools and parts for less than what a garage would charge. Watch loads of videos before hand for all different types of tips because nothing ever goes to plan. My biggest tip for doing brakes is cleaning all your surfaces thoroughly. Brackets should be cleaned to look like new, it can take a long time but it's the most important as this is the surface that the pads slide back and forth on for 2 years, rust and baked on brake dust expands in the gap. Many people don't clean them properly and end up with binding pads 6 months later and destroyed discs. I'm talking about discs because this guy did a good explanation of drums already