I own a 1979 all steel Burgundy Superb wich I bought new . I am really amazed how little the Superb has changed sinds 1952 , only the brake rods on mine are a real difference . Lovely bike and well hidden battery ! Mine will stay pure manpower in our flat Netherlands ! 😂
Ahh the Dutch/Belgian maroon models! Lovely. I have videos of my Dutch models and maroon Superbe, elsewhere on the channel. I have a bike like yours arriving in 2 weeks directly from Utrecht
Your regular reminder that Rowan needs our help if this channel is to continue. Please become a Velocipedian to thank him and allow him to continue sharing his knowledge and passion with us.
I just converted a 1972 Raleigh Sports using the latest Swytch ebike kit. They provided a 37-590 (26X1 3/8) front motor hub wheel as a standard option. It has the slimmer batteries. I really like the setup.
For many years I've owned a lovely original1952 Raleigh Superb DL-1, all original with rod lever brakes, and since I'm approaching retirement age, I've been contemplating converting it to a stealth eBicycle. You paved the way already, as my main concern was spreading the front fork from about 85mm to 100mm, and hoping that the pads of the rod brakes will still reach the rim. I didn't know about the longer crank axle, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. I too have an old large Brooks saddle bag hanging below my B90, allowing me to hide the controller and the battery as well. Thank you for this highly informative video!
Thank you for this inspirational video which stimulated me to use the Covid lockdown similarly to convert a step-through (i.e. 'ladies') Raleigh all steel cycle of 1951. My main point of departure was to swap the Raleigh front forks for a modern 'mountain bike' version whose span was already at 100mm to accommodate the engine wheel. This was also to ease removing the wheel without a spreader (blessed though such devices are) and avoid the risk of overstraining the Raleigh forks. I also used one of the Chinese provided brakes whose operation can break the power circuit to glide/brake accordingly. Most difficult of all - and sensibly avoided in the video by placing the battery in a saddlebag - was to fit an adequately supported rack for the battery. This required some D clips and other fettling. Throughout - and despite the time delays for messaging - the vendors in S China could not have been more helpful.
This bike is definitely more in the spirit of the law than the letter 😊. It has cut-out brake levers but they are in the saddle bag. The thumb trigger still needs the pedal sensor to be signalling, but you can just move the pedals slowly. I don’t know how long it will run on the trigger. I still think it’s the coolest e-bike I’ve ever seen and I’d love to do it again
@@Velocipedium its such a fabulous covert, little thing, much nicer, than the old petrol engine conversions, you could use to buy and still looks very classy :)
Wonderful! I will post you a link to my American equivalent my 1952 CWC Roadmaster all wheel drive 1500w racer. I am of course a 30 year BSA bodger. LOL!
Wonderful eBike Conversion and is inspiring me to convert my Raleigh Sport here in America Also own a DL-1 Can you elaborate on the crank axle that was used? In the video it was mentioned that the original crank axle wasn't wide enough so a different one was use that was wider. Do crank axles interchange? And which bicycle can this be obtained from?
Great video. I converted an old mountain bike with a Yose power kit a few years ago and have done a lot of commuting with it. They are good systems! I have got a bit fed up with the hassles of the derailleurs and the none too comfortable riding position of the mountain bike though. So I’ve just bought a 1964 Triumph, 3 speed, which I may convert to electric at a future date. I had exactly the same idea as yourself, so it’s interesting to see your experience of doing it. I also wondered about the power assist sensor, so it’s handy to know that it can be done!
Great conversion which is giving me ideas as well. Any chance you can share a link to this electric wheel conversion if I wish to buy one for my superbe. Thanks
Hi, Peter looks like he has original brake cables on his bike. I am guessing that they are not and that he has soldered some new ones? If that's the case, can you ask him what he used as nipples at the brake caliper please? I have the original cables on mine, but they now need changing. I don't know if I can heat the originals to melt the solder and re use the original nipples? Great video. Thanks.
Great conversion!! I am doing one with rod brakes, using the same kit as you, built onto the correct rim. I have a problem : Where did you get your lengthened axle and how much longer did you go? Did the longer crank have the same chainline on the other side and if not I wonder how did you deal with it. My crank is a 16GC 34-55-46, so I'm guessing the ideal is 39-55-46. The nearest Raleigh crank is (I think) 39-55-47.5 but (a) I can't find one and (b) I don't know how to handle another 2.5 mm on the chain line. Does the OP or anyone have any suggestion? I know this is a comment secion not a forum but any port in a storm! Cheers!
2.5mm is only 1/16” and it’s not an issue imho. We (peter did most of the work, not me) used an axle that he had around. I don’t know the specs as he did that job without me. I just built the wheel and modified the fork (never got the chance to make it look better). If i had problems fitting the chaincase with an extra 1.5 mm outset, instinctively I would add a washer or two behind the chaincase mounting bolt on the chainstay
@@Velocipedium Thanks very much. I think the chain line difference was a red herring. My bike mechanics manual says they differ but my original Raleigh spare parts manual says they are same chain line, so I just need to be patient until one surfaces. Thanks again for getting back to me.
Excellent job. I have a Raleigh Superbe from around 1970 with rod brakes. I'd like o do what you have done, but wonder if the wheel as supplied would be compatible with the rod operated brake. The brake doesn't pinch inwards from the side, but pulls up - old style on the rim. Perhaps I would need to obtain a new old stock rim and have the motor laced into a wheel with the new rim. I would not want to damage the original wheel by stripping out the original rim to lace up with the motor. Any ideas on that chaps?
Yes you would need a westrick or Westwood rim ruclips.net/video/Xy5c8DegqSo/видео.html And I don’t think rod & stirrup brakes are adequate for an e-bike. They ate only just adequate for dry weather rides away from hills as it is!
@@Velocipedium Ah - yes - the brakes are pretty marginal. If I could fit a caliper brake to the front, would the motor wheel supplied with the kit fit - or could it be made to fit with a bit of 'fettling'? Thanks for your time in responding.
Im guessing that a kit would not be available in 26 x 1 3/8 (590). Their idea of 26” would be mountain bike (559). You will probably need a wheel building regardless
@@Velocipedium I just used a swytch ebike kit to convert a Raleigh Sports and they have a 37-590 front hub motor wheel as a standard option. Pretty cool.
Happy new year. I've been waiting with anticipation : The idea of decluttering the handlebar was the key to this bike, great. The bag could go on a front rack? With a bike of this age this is an 'adaption' so the UK/EU( ho hum?)Pedelec rules are different from that of new e-bikes, you could do a simple 250W front hub like the older Sparticle system and not need to have a crank sensor, just throttle and go! That top tube could be covered with heating pipe foam tubing covered in leather, hide the wires, help carrying and may reduce scrotum pain if you slip. That seat angle looks too 'radical', horizontal should be more comfortable. Rather than using files to trim the dropouts there are Dremel stones that can cut the 'indents' a bit deeper for washers. A Dremel tool does so many jobs on my old cars.
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I own a 1979 all steel Burgundy Superb wich I bought new .
I am really amazed how little the Superb has changed sinds 1952 , only the brake rods on mine are a real difference .
Lovely bike and well hidden battery !
Mine will stay pure manpower in our flat Netherlands ! 😂
Ahh the Dutch/Belgian maroon models! Lovely. I have videos of my Dutch models and maroon Superbe, elsewhere on the channel. I have a bike like yours arriving in 2 weeks directly from Utrecht
Your regular reminder that Rowan needs our help if this channel is to continue.
Please become a Velocipedian to thank him and allow him to continue sharing his knowledge and passion with us.
I just converted a 1972 Raleigh Sports using the latest Swytch ebike kit. They provided a 37-590 (26X1 3/8) front motor hub wheel as a standard option. It has the slimmer batteries. I really like the setup.
For many years I've owned a lovely original1952 Raleigh Superb DL-1, all original with rod lever brakes, and since I'm approaching retirement age, I've been contemplating converting it to a stealth eBicycle. You paved the way already, as my main concern was spreading the front fork from about 85mm to 100mm, and hoping that the pads of the rod brakes will still reach the rim. I didn't know about the longer crank axle, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. I too have an old large Brooks saddle bag hanging below my B90, allowing me to hide the controller and the battery as well. Thank you for this highly informative video!
Thank you for this inspirational video which stimulated me to use the Covid lockdown similarly to convert a step-through (i.e. 'ladies') Raleigh all steel cycle of 1951. My main point of departure was to swap the Raleigh front forks for a modern 'mountain bike' version whose span was already at 100mm to accommodate the engine wheel. This was also to ease removing the wheel without a spreader (blessed though such devices are) and avoid the risk of overstraining the Raleigh forks. I also used one of the Chinese provided brakes whose operation can break the power circuit to glide/brake accordingly. Most difficult of all - and sensibly avoided in the video by placing the battery in a saddlebag - was to fit an adequately supported rack for the battery. This required some D clips and other fettling. Throughout - and despite the time delays for messaging - the vendors in S China could not have been more helpful.
Such a beautiful bike! Great job on the conversion too!
aaaah the good ole days, when you could use a hand throttle :) lol
This bike is definitely more in the spirit of the law than the letter 😊. It has cut-out brake levers but they are in the saddle bag. The thumb trigger still needs the pedal sensor to be signalling, but you can just move the pedals slowly. I don’t know how long it will run on the trigger. I still think it’s the coolest e-bike I’ve ever seen and I’d love to do it again
@@Velocipedium its such a fabulous covert, little thing, much nicer, than the old petrol engine conversions, you could use to buy and still looks very classy :)
Wonderful! I will post you a link to my American equivalent my 1952 CWC Roadmaster all wheel drive 1500w racer. I am of course a 30 year BSA bodger. LOL!
Wonderful eBike Conversion and is inspiring me to convert my Raleigh Sport here in America
Also own a DL-1
Can you elaborate on the crank axle that was used? In the video it was mentioned that the original crank axle wasn't wide enough so a different one was use that was wider. Do crank axles interchange? And which bicycle can this be obtained from?
Great video. I converted an old mountain bike with a Yose power kit a few years ago and have done a lot of commuting with it. They are good systems! I have got a bit fed up with the hassles of the derailleurs and the none too comfortable riding position of the mountain bike though. So I’ve just bought a 1964 Triumph, 3 speed, which I may convert to electric at a future date. I had exactly the same idea as yourself, so it’s interesting to see your experience of doing it. I also wondered about the power assist sensor, so it’s handy to know that it can be done!
My father also have a raley bycicile, with Philips head lights, Lucas bell..
how cool is this a "sleeper" bicycle. Its guna catch a lot of them young whipper snappers napping.
Brilliant and lots of corduroy on show !
Great job! Thanks for sharing
Great bike! Nice conversion!
Great conversion which is giving me ideas as well. Any chance you can share a link to this electric wheel conversion if I wish to buy one for my superbe. Thanks
Hi,
Peter looks like he has original brake cables on his bike. I am guessing that they are not and that he has soldered some new ones?
If that's the case, can you ask him what he used as nipples at the brake caliper please?
I have the original cables on mine, but they now need changing. I don't know if I can heat the originals to melt the solder and re use the original nipples?
Great video. Thanks.
Great conversion!! I am doing one with rod brakes, using the same kit as you, built onto the correct rim. I have a problem : Where did you get your lengthened axle and how much longer did you go? Did the longer crank have the same chainline on the other side and if not I wonder how did you deal with it. My crank is a 16GC 34-55-46, so I'm guessing the ideal is 39-55-46. The nearest Raleigh crank is (I think) 39-55-47.5 but (a) I can't find one and (b) I don't know how to handle another 2.5 mm on the chain line.
Does the OP or anyone have any suggestion? I know this is a comment secion not a forum but any port in a storm! Cheers!
2.5mm is only 1/16” and it’s not an issue imho. We (peter did most of the work, not me) used an axle that he had around. I don’t know the specs as he did that job without me. I just built the wheel and modified the fork (never got the chance to make it look better).
If i had problems fitting the chaincase with an extra 1.5 mm outset, instinctively I would add a washer or two behind the chaincase mounting bolt on the chainstay
@@Velocipedium Thanks very much. I think the chain line difference was a red herring. My bike mechanics manual says they differ but my original Raleigh spare parts manual says they are same chain line, so I just need to be patient until one surfaces. Thanks again for getting back to me.
Excellent job. I have a Raleigh Superbe from around 1970 with rod brakes. I'd like o do what you have done, but wonder if the wheel as supplied would be compatible with the rod operated brake. The brake doesn't pinch inwards from the side, but pulls up - old style on the rim. Perhaps I would need to obtain a new old stock rim and have the motor laced into a wheel with the new rim. I would not want to damage the original wheel by stripping out the original rim to lace up with the motor.
Any ideas on that chaps?
Yes you would need a westrick or Westwood rim
ruclips.net/video/Xy5c8DegqSo/видео.html
And I don’t think rod & stirrup brakes are adequate for an e-bike. They ate only just adequate for dry weather rides away from hills as it is!
ruclips.net/video/q1jqtFfZYBE/видео.html
@@Velocipedium Ah - yes - the brakes are pretty marginal. If I could fit a caliper brake to the front, would the motor wheel supplied with the kit fit - or could it be made to fit with a bit of 'fettling'? Thanks for your time in responding.
Im guessing that a kit would not be available in 26 x 1 3/8 (590). Their idea of 26” would be mountain bike (559).
You will probably need a wheel building regardless
@@Velocipedium I just used a swytch ebike kit to convert a Raleigh Sports and they have a 37-590 front hub motor wheel as a standard option. Pretty cool.
Fantastic
Happy new year.
I've been waiting with anticipation : The idea of decluttering the handlebar was the key to this bike, great. The bag could go on a front rack?
With a bike of this age this is an 'adaption' so the UK/EU( ho hum?)Pedelec rules are different from that of new e-bikes, you could do a simple 250W front hub like the older Sparticle system and not need to have a crank sensor, just throttle and go!
That top tube could be covered with heating pipe foam tubing covered in leather, hide the wires, help carrying and may reduce scrotum pain if you slip. That seat angle looks too 'radical', horizontal should be more comfortable.
Rather than using files to trim the dropouts there are Dremel stones that can cut the 'indents' a bit deeper for washers. A Dremel tool does so many jobs on my old cars.
Hello,
Did you encounter any issues with the torque of the hub motor liberating the assembly from the forks?
Nothing at all. The bike has covered hundreds of miles so far.
All vintage bikes should be converted
Oh gosh no!
@@Velocipedium I mean all the bikes that are just rotting away or the nice ones that never get used
New lease of life
gostei