Great video and tips. I like how you took skills from model building/painting and incorporated it into these customizations. Seems like a natural connection you don't see much.
Very nice pieces. That mold line removal really does make it look much better I kind of want you to do my pieces for me (a joke, but also let me know if you have a ton of spare time and you're feeling like doing some D-Day pieces). A couple questions (I didn't know anything about customising pieces before this): How do you apply decals? What do "primers" do? How does it relate with spray painting pieces?
Decals: I use Tamiya's decal "softener" and decal "setter". The decal comes off after leaving it soaked in water for 2-3 minutes. I place a small dot of decal softener in a spot on the piece where the decal is going to go. I place the decal on the spot with tweezers. I gently move the decal into the exact position I want. I use a q-tip and roll it across the decal to remove bubbles and soak up excess liquid. I then apply a think layer of decal setter on top to "seal" the decal properly. In theory, primer is designed to stick to plastic surfaces better than a colored paint. A coat of this helps keep the color you apply later last longer. Eventually, after several years of use, the paint will begin to chip away but it should help keep it together longer and more durably. Thanks, but I cannot make pieces for anyone. I'm flattered but it is a labor of love and takes a lot of time to do it well.
@@thegoodcaptain1217 Thanks for answering my questions! I understand that you won't be able to do the pieces for me. It certainly looks very hard and takes a lot of time.
Can I suggest using a exacto-knife for the mold lines. Scrape it across them to remove the lines. It will cut down how much sanding you have to do, possibly eliminating the need to sand the figures. It leaves a cleaner surface and you don't get all the dust. It takes less time. If you don't like the result you can always go back and sand it....there should be a lot less sanding then.
I know the technique you are describing well and I strongly recommend not doing this for two reasons. First, the mold line is not pronounced enough and second, it runs down the vertical (usually flat) service of each piece. Mistakes usually appear in the form of scoring marks that take much longer to sand out than if you hadn't used an exacto to begin with. After sanding a few sets of axis and allies pieces, I now almost never use an exacto knife even in regular scale model construction.
the infantry don't have a mold line (at least not one that is noticeable). The artilleries take about 3 minutes each, the armor about 6 minutes each. Aircraft take about 6 minutes each as well.
I usually wash mine just to be on the safe side. It’s an extra step but I’d rather do it than have the paint not cure or hold correctly and then have to redo the paint job.
That is a legitimate step in the process but also one that not everyone follows (the same is true of priming the pieces as well though). I don't personally wash the pieces and have observed no ill affects over the years.
@@thegoodcaptain1217 Agreed! I don’t know that I’ve seen or experienced a difference either over the years. I think depending on the level of detail you’re putting into the pieces can be a good indicator of whether or not you want to risk having to redo the paint job.
Great video! Question, do you always dry brush with a lighter tone then the base tone, or are there some instances (like UK, for instance), where you might dry brush with a darker tone?
I’m not 100% certain. If you’re on the axis and Allies Facebook pages, I’d ask “wolf denz customs”. He paints pieces and sells sets to players all the time. His work looks good and it looks like he dry brushes everything.
Yessir. I got them from historical board gaming. Here's a link: www.historicalboardgaming.com/1285_c_1536.html The USA armor got white starts and the UK tanks got small "red-white-red" flags.
im my set we have the mighty 'THE CHOCOLATE TANK" a german tank got chocolate schmutz on it like 30 years ago. it stands out. we always joke about it make a point of pointing it out.... its been a while i should see if it still so mighty
Great video and tips. I like how you took skills from model building/painting and incorporated it into these customizations. Seems like a natural connection you don't see much.
Wow! Great work! The screw board is genius.
Hah! Many thanks 👍
test
Very nice pieces. That mold line removal really does make it look much better
I kind of want you to do my pieces for me (a joke, but also let me know if you have a ton of spare time and you're feeling like doing some D-Day pieces).
A couple questions (I didn't know anything about customising pieces before this):
How do you apply decals?
What do "primers" do? How does it relate with spray painting pieces?
Decals: I use Tamiya's decal "softener" and decal "setter". The decal comes off after leaving it soaked in water for 2-3 minutes. I place a small dot of decal softener in a spot on the piece where the decal is going to go. I place the decal on the spot with tweezers. I gently move the decal into the exact position I want. I use a q-tip and roll it across the decal to remove bubbles and soak up excess liquid. I then apply a think layer of decal setter on top to "seal" the decal properly.
In theory, primer is designed to stick to plastic surfaces better than a colored paint. A coat of this helps keep the color you apply later last longer. Eventually, after several years of use, the paint will begin to chip away but it should help keep it together longer and more durably.
Thanks, but I cannot make pieces for anyone. I'm flattered but it is a labor of love and takes a lot of time to do it well.
@@thegoodcaptain1217 Thanks for answering my questions!
I understand that you won't be able to do the pieces for me. It certainly looks very hard and takes a lot of time.
Can I suggest using a exacto-knife for the mold lines. Scrape it across them to remove the lines. It will cut down how much sanding you have to do, possibly eliminating the need to sand the figures. It leaves a cleaner surface and you don't get all the dust. It takes less time. If you don't like the result you can always go back and sand it....there should be a lot less sanding then.
I know the technique you are describing well and I strongly recommend not doing this for two reasons. First, the mold line is not pronounced enough and second, it runs down the vertical (usually flat) service of each piece. Mistakes usually appear in the form of scoring marks that take much longer to sand out than if you hadn't used an exacto to begin with. After sanding a few sets of axis and allies pieces, I now almost never use an exacto knife even in regular scale model construction.
Im not a fan of painted pieces aswell, my eye sight is bad
Approximately how long does sanding just one unit
the infantry don't have a mold line (at least not one that is noticeable). The artilleries take about 3 minutes each, the armor about 6 minutes each. Aircraft take about 6 minutes each as well.
What is the source for the small decals? Thanks for the great video!
@@StevenViltoft historicalboardgaming.com
Sweet
👍
Does anyone wash their pieces before painting them? Does it help? I've heard residue from the manufacturing plant causes paint not to stick well
I usually wash mine just to be on the safe side. It’s an extra step but I’d rather do it than have the paint not cure or hold correctly and then have to redo the paint job.
That is a legitimate step in the process but also one that not everyone follows (the same is true of priming the pieces as well though). I don't personally wash the pieces and have observed no ill affects over the years.
@@thegoodcaptain1217 Agreed! I don’t know that I’ve seen or experienced a difference either over the years. I think depending on the level of detail you’re putting into the pieces can be a good indicator of whether or not you want to risk having to redo the paint job.
@@crookedlegs-thekansascityw8598 very good point
Great video! Question, do you always dry brush with a lighter tone then the base tone, or are there some instances (like UK, for instance), where you might dry brush with a darker tone?
I’m not 100% certain. If you’re on the axis and Allies Facebook pages, I’d ask “wolf denz customs”. He paints pieces and sells sets to players all the time. His work looks good and it looks like he dry brushes everything.
Where did you buy the decals, and did you get them for all nations?
Yessir. I got them from historical board gaming. Here's a link: www.historicalboardgaming.com/1285_c_1536.html The USA armor got white starts and the UK tanks got small "red-white-red" flags.
@@thegoodcaptain1217 Thank you!
im my set we have the mighty 'THE CHOCOLATE TANK" a german tank got chocolate schmutz on it like 30 years ago. it stands out. we always joke about it make a point of pointing it out.... its been a while i should see if it still so mighty