Well done, I know you've been doing this for longer than I've been watching you, ( 5 or 10 years maybe) but this is not what I see everyone else doing, thank you.
You made a mistake, because the front of the drawer should have a dovetail, so it wont be pulled out of the sides when you pull on a handle. In other words you should have made the tails on the sides instead of the front. Greetings from Denmark.
I believe that Colin intended the joinery primarily as a decorative element, and for that I prefer the pins on the front the way he has constructed the drawers. Still very strong. If the drawers were intended for heavy loads he probably would have done traditional 3/4 inch sides and 1/2 inch bottom and put them on slides.
@@josephstoutenburgh8612 I caught that too on the email thumbnail but I would not have thought of it being a decorative element. I am sure it would be plenty strong anyway
Congradulations Colin, you just turned a strong dovetail joint into a weak glue joint :>) You really should acknowledge this error in your next video, but I suspect you won't. BTW, I would.
Colin I like your videos very much and i learn something new every time i see one. can you review the process of dovetails with a jig and explain how you determine the depth of cut
G'morning, Q. Why aren't you using the tails on the front side of the drawer? I know it'll be glued but wouldn't it be more secure as you pull on the drawer front over time? Please don't misunderstand I love your videos and I learned a lot from you, I was just curious.
Yeah, I was going to ask the same question, that with the current configuration the direction of force when pulling the drawer out will be in the same direction as pulling the front panel off of the side panels.
Meh, they’ll show up great on camera this way. With modern glue and maybe a pin nail or 2, they’ll be just fine. It’s functioning as a fancy finger/box joint, which is a perfectly acceptable joint for drawers.
The answer to your second question is yes. Aaron's right, they'll probably be fine, but Colin did defeat the reason for having dovetails. A box joint would be as strong or stronger because they'd have more surface area for the glue.
Great video as always but (don’t shoot the messenger) that’s the weak way to make the joints, the front pushed on so will pull off over time, the tail should be on the side so it tightens over time
I wonder if any of the keyboard warriors here faulting the orientation of the dovetails and stating that the joint will fall apart when subjected to force of opening the drawer have ever made a single dovetail joint themselves? The tail of the dovetail is a beautiful design element. There is an enormous amount of glue surface in a dovetail joint and based on that alone the joint should be extremely strong, regardless of orientation. Colin has been a woodworker longer than most of us have been alive and has a tremendous amount of experience. I'm sure he is aware of the difference and feels the joint will be more than strong enough for this application.
You make it look so easy. I am still trying to do my first. I have bought several jigs ranging from 500. To the basic one for around 50.00. Still trying. Thank for you help please take care and be safe.
Try the Keller dovetail jig. Very easy and fast, similar to what you saw in this video, which may have been a Keller. Colin didn't say what jig he was using though.
Hi, I'm a newbie to draw making, I couple of weeks ago I had to resize 4 cabinet drawers with dovetail ends. I bought a used router & a 1/2in dovetail bit. I was able to painstaking recreate the pins. I recently bought a used Sear Craftsman 8in depth Dovetail joint fixture, model 92570 for $15. Would you by any change have a setup/demo video for it or be able to point me to where a can find one. Either way.., Thanks Ed Dwyer
Great video and beautiful project as usual! Colin, your finishes are always beautiful. I'd like to suggest you trying a great product. It's an all-natural and all-in-one stain and oil called Rubio MonoCoat. It goes on like a dream. It's so easy that I've yet to screw it up! You sand to 120 grit and glide it on with a nylon implement or brush (I use a credit card). You don't use a rag to apply because it will absorb too much of the finish. You literally dribble a small line of the finish and you can push it quite a distance ... it really goes a long way. It takes to the wood immediately with no rubbing and you can't over stain, especially on places already finished, so no need to worry about blending areas. The wood will not accept more stain once it's on. You wait no more than 15 mins. and then wipe off excess with just a bit of rubbing like an oil ... it is in fact an oil but It's water based, dries to touch quickly, and will cure in 7 days (2 days with accelerator). It really lets the grain "pop" esp. the darker colors. It comes in a whole bunch of colors. Just food for thought. Btw, there's virtually no odor and certainly no chemical fumes.
Can anyone help?, I bought a jig to make dovetails from the car boot, but mine has a top clamp template plate that doesn't meet flush with the horizontal board its clamping, there is a good inch between the template and board, how do I make 90 degree joins? PS: Only one fixed template, not two like you often see (Tooth profile)
I wasn't going to comment about the orientation. Thought That I was seeing things. Hey, we're all human! I'd still like to see how a rabited half-blind drawer is done.
ill be the one to point out the dove tails are cut wrong, your pulling face slide from the front to rear on the sides defeating the mechanical strength of the dove tail, like wise with the rear , over time the face of the draw will part from the sides
I like your teaching methods Colin but all your videos are with stand drills, table saws and specialist tools. You never teach the people who only have basic tools. Why?
![Top Drawer! [video 519]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HcNRId9a3Lw/mqdefault.jpg)
Well done, I know you've been doing this for longer than I've been watching you, ( 5 or 10 years maybe) but this is not what I see everyone else doing, thank you.
You made a mistake, because the front of the drawer should have a dovetail, so it wont be pulled out of the sides when you pull on a handle. In other words you should have made the tails on the sides instead of the front.
Greetings from Denmark.
Good catch! I didn't notice at all. Great video though Colin!
I believe that Colin intended the joinery primarily as a decorative element, and for that I prefer the pins on the front the way he has constructed the drawers. Still very strong. If the drawers were intended for heavy loads he probably would have done traditional 3/4 inch sides and 1/2 inch bottom and put them on slides.
@@josephstoutenburgh8612 I caught that too on the email thumbnail but I would not have thought of it being a decorative element. I am sure it would be plenty strong anyway
I came to the comments just to see how many are going to say that.
Valid point, Mind you... considering it is just a drawer, I do believe that glue would suffice in keeping it together unless you dont use that?
wow this is advanced carpentry !!! i am amazed by the craftsmanship ....I don't think I could make that
Excellent , thanks.
Thank you for a very informative video Colin.
As Chuck Bender would say, you made the perfect Un- Dovetail!
Nice job Colin it's amazing how a little detail of the joinery makes a tremendous difference in the look. Thanks for all that you do with the videos.
Nicely Done.... Great Project Weekend
The drawers look great! Nice and strong too.
Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks for the knowledge on how to make traditional dovetail Drawers , Sir !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Very nice!
Thanks for sharing with us 😬
Congradulations Colin, you just turned a strong dovetail joint into a weak glue joint :>) You really should acknowledge this error in your next video, but I suspect you won't. BTW, I would.
Great job Colin always love watching
Very nice job, Collin.
CAB
Parallax compensation in woodworking. You learn something new each day;-) Thanks.
Nice video... thanks!
I enjoy the simplicity of your videos. Can you do a video on the knapp joint?
I like decretive dovetails also.
Colin
I like your videos very much and i learn something new every time i see one.
can you review the process of dovetails with a jig and explain how you determine the depth of cut
Hi can you tell me or give me a link for the dove tail jig please many thanks
G'morning,
Q. Why aren't you using the tails on the front side of the drawer?
I know it'll be glued but wouldn't it be more secure as you pull on the drawer front over time?
Please don't misunderstand I love your videos and I learned a lot from you, I was just curious.
Yeah, I was going to ask the same question, that with the current configuration the direction of force when pulling the drawer out will be in the same direction as pulling the front panel off of the side panels.
Finally not the only one. I heard that concept from Matt Estlea.
Not as nice to look at though
Meh, they’ll show up great on camera this way. With modern glue and maybe a pin nail or 2, they’ll be just fine. It’s functioning as a fancy finger/box joint, which is a perfectly acceptable joint for drawers.
The answer to your second question is yes. Aaron's right, they'll probably be fine, but Colin did defeat the reason for having dovetails. A box joint would be as strong or stronger because they'd have more surface area for the glue.
I like to see the joint show buy can you use thinner sides and thicker front using your jig
Beautiful work, Colin! Really nicely done! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Another very helpful video! I thoroughly enjoy your channel. Always useful content. Thanks!
Great video as always but (don’t shoot the messenger) that’s the weak way to make the joints, the front pushed on so will pull off over time, the tail should be on the side so it tightens over time
The dovetail in this orientation has no mechanical strength. It’s like a box joint solely dependent on glue surface.
I wonder if any of the keyboard warriors here faulting the orientation of the dovetails and stating that the joint will fall apart when subjected to force of opening the drawer have ever made a single dovetail joint themselves? The tail of the dovetail is a beautiful design element. There is an enormous amount of glue surface in a dovetail joint and based on that alone the joint should be extremely strong, regardless of orientation. Colin has been a woodworker longer than most of us have been alive and has a tremendous amount of experience. I'm sure he is aware of the difference and feels the joint will be more than strong enough for this application.
Good vidéo.
Merci beaucoup du 🇨🇦
You make it look so easy. I am still trying to do my first. I have bought several jigs ranging from 500. To the basic one for around 50.00. Still trying. Thank for you help please take care and be safe.
Try the Keller dovetail jig. Very easy and fast, similar to what you saw in this video, which may have been a Keller. Colin didn't say what jig he was using though.
Hi,
I'm a newbie to draw making, I couple of weeks ago I had to resize 4 cabinet drawers with dovetail ends. I bought a used router & a 1/2in dovetail bit. I was able to painstaking recreate the pins. I recently bought a used Sear Craftsman 8in depth Dovetail joint fixture, model 92570 for $15. Would you by any change have a setup/demo video for it or be able to point me to where a can find one.
Either way..,
Thanks
Ed Dwyer
Great video and beautiful project as usual! Colin, your finishes are always beautiful. I'd like to suggest you trying a great product. It's an all-natural and all-in-one stain and oil called Rubio MonoCoat. It goes on like a dream. It's so easy that I've yet to screw it up! You sand to 120 grit and glide it on with a nylon implement or brush (I use a credit card). You don't use a rag to apply because it will absorb too much of the finish. You literally dribble a small line of the finish and you can push it quite a distance ... it really goes a long way. It takes to the wood immediately with no rubbing and you can't over stain, especially on places already finished, so no need to worry about blending areas. The wood will not accept more stain once it's on. You wait no more than 15 mins. and then wipe off excess with just a bit of rubbing like an oil ... it is in fact an oil but It's water based, dries to touch quickly, and will cure in 7 days (2 days with accelerator). It really lets the grain "pop" esp. the darker colors. It comes in a whole bunch of colors. Just food for thought. Btw, there's virtually no odor and certainly no chemical fumes.
Can anyone help?, I bought a jig to make dovetails from the car boot, but mine has a top clamp template plate that doesn't meet flush with the horizontal board its clamping, there is a good inch between the template and board, how do I make 90 degree joins?
PS: Only one fixed template, not two like you often see (Tooth profile)
How about making measuring cups with forsner bits, hole saws and jig saw.
Why do you not use a miter gauge with a fence on a router table?
Where did you get the jig from
Where is your wood watch?
I wasn't going to comment about the orientation. Thought That I was seeing things. Hey, we're all human!
I'd still like to see how a rabited half-blind drawer is done.
You can cut both boards simultaneously
, I have learnt that when teaching others you should always do so, or your passing on your mistakes may perpetuate bad workmanship in them
ill be the one to point out the dove tails are cut wrong, your pulling face slide from the front to rear on the sides defeating the mechanical strength of the dove tail, like wise with the rear , over time the face of the draw will part from the sides
I'm think n dovetails should have be n on the sides of the draws n pins on the front of the draws. Watch other videos n b observant.
draws? or drawers. b observant.
As Russ said you should admit your mistake. Not here but in your future video as I being a less than expert woodworker at 85 years old
What am I the only one up?
I’m up too
nope lol
I've been up for 6 hours.
I like your teaching methods Colin but all your videos are with stand drills, table saws and specialist tools. You never teach the people who only have basic tools. Why?
Check out Rex Krueger's RUclips channel. He uses basic tools and shows how to get good results with minimal investment.
@@markmossinghoff8185 Thank you. I will.