Love how you come up with solutions that fix multiple issues with one build, from your lure capsule to a simple brush holder. Learning alot from this channel. Thank you
G'day mate. I'm so glad I found your channel I have learnt so much my mind can't process it !! Quick question, would a grow light from hydroponics work as they have such a broad spectrum. Thanks and keep up the great work you are incredibly inspirational. Kid regards Craig
Love it - Usefull information - Considering using UV resin for some of my projects, and bought the same chinese stuff I see you have on the table (Black jar with green leaf pattern) Do you find that there is great difference between this and lets say AlumiUV?
The biggest difference I was finding is that Alumi-UV took just a little bit longer to set really hard and it finished a bit dull..a satin finish. I mentioned that in the video where I com;pare the two types but, since then, it seems that Alumilite has changed their UV Resin formulation because now it sets just as fast and with a high gloss finish. I'm not sure what to make of that...but I am comfortable using both.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the info. Maybe the two products are, at least chemically, the same. Don't know how many producers of UV resin is actually around. I will continue with the chinese stuff as the the custom rules allows me to get that cheaper than Alumilite
Hello there, nice work man! I have 2x36W nail lamps and curing box, when i setting up the lure and turning on UV, leaving it for 30min. I getting a dull effect, maby i doing something wrong ?
If the resin still has a strong smell it is not fully cured...give it another 30 minutes. I usually leave my lures turning for an hour or more. Some uv resins just don't have a high gloss finish.
Great video!! Very well explained. One question: Have you used the chinese uv resin to apply it to the lures like a final coat? If so, how was the result? Thanks from Spain!
That's true I only compared the characteristics of the two resins. I use both of the UV Resins as top finish coats and find them both to work well. I like using at least two coats but three is better. I love Spain, I want to go back to the north coast and do some fishing. Thank you for the question.
You can use black light bulbs but they produce a weak light that will take much longer to set the resin. You can find uv LED spot lights on line that work well. I use the ladies nail setting lights. they are inexpensive and you get twice the wattage for the money. Just be sure you get a UV light with a wavelength between 360 and 395 nM.
Thank you for your share.I have a question that which kind of paint can I use?I found that If I paint the lure with Alcohol Marker，the UV coat can't get dry.
No...alcohol is not a good thinner. You can use the pre-made thinners. Most airbrush paint makers sell thinners or reducers for their paints. There are also DIY vedios you can try. Good luck.
I used to carve my own lures as a kid and got frustrated because there was nothing suitable to use as a clear-coat. Retired now and with these modern products, lure making is on the winter project list! My experience with UV resins is limited to the (extremely expensive - $45 per ounce!!!) products from Loon Outdoors and Solarez that I use for fly tying. If you are familiar with the Loon Outdoors and Solarez products would you compare them to the chinese resin for me? Five minutes to drip; five minutes to level; 20% thinning for spraying... would you please describe the viscosity of the chinese resin so I get an idea of what it would be like to work with it - sounds like would be similar to "table syrup" in viscosity. Sorry for all the questions, I've made many composite (wood/fiberglass) canoes and kayaks so I am used to modifying (thickening) the epoxies properties with fillers but have done nothing to try to thin them - I'm just trying to get a handle on the UV resins - especially the chinese one as I can get it locally (Canada). Thanks in advance! Hank
Happy to have the questions and hope you can spend some time building lures this winter. I have used Solarez quite a bit over the past decades, it has its uses but not for lure clear coats (my opinion). I have tested four different UV suppliers and for ease of use, quality of finish, and value the Chinese brand is best for lure building. The viscosity is just about like thirty weight motor oil.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the reply! 30 weight oil - got it! Started viewing your videos from the beginning - really enjoying seeing someone else's way of doing things.
I’m new to Alumi UV Ive had some issues with a second coat repelling and pulling back. Should I be wiping with alcohol in between coats? I’m wearing nitrile gloves not touching the lures with my hands. Thanks.
Yes...wiping with alcohol is a must between coats. I like to take #000 steel wool and knock down the gloss then wipe down with alcohol. Then I am not shy with the second coat, I pile it on and turn it with out the lights for 5 minutes to get the bubble out. Results are supper ratifying! Good luck.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the info. I did it once with success but the second time it was a disaster. I will give it another shot. Thank you Sir. 🙏🏽
I was looking for a "fade resistant", fast drying clear cast for use over spray painted art works? I may be lost, but i know a fair share of how uv clear works. Quantity, affordability, & reasonable fade resistance are my main focus im looking for? Applied like a boat veneer with foam brush. :-)
UV cure resin is pretty tough and more resistant to yellowing than anything else I've seen. Its no inexpensive and its kind of brittle so if you're putting it over something that flexes much it might crack.
@@EngineeredAngler Hoping the solarez is correct product for me?, looking for that nudge to try it, ha... I do painting both on "concrete" art, once an acrylic white paint & primer base is applied & also concrete epoxied adhered foil graphics, which is even faster of a process. The work encounters sun that fades my colors within only one season of exposure. :-[ Potential exposure to salt water, & vehicular run over, as well as different weather conditions. But non yellowing is good, but not always proven to stop a season of fading. 10 years of painting & haven't settled on anything great. Considering more expensive ootions. No paint is perfect, but need to find something favorable.
I e watch this video several times and I’m having a issue with my UV clear. I dipped it this past time on 16 lures. Nice and slow and allowed to drip for a period of time. Buts after 20 minutes the clear thinned out and even pulled away from the lure leaving bare areas. Nothing I can’t fix, but I hate wasting more time into baits. I used rubber gloves throughout the process, never touching the baits with my hands. All baits were cleaned with denatured alcohol prior to painting. For The life of me I can’t figure out why it’s doing this. And yes my UV clear is nice and warm prior to applying to the baits. Any thoughts Franco as to why it’s doing this?
Dought you read these comments still, but maybe someone will be able to answer me. I am new to UV top coating. The hv nail cuter has a bunch of little led hv lights and says 120 watt light. Is this too much wattage? Should I go with tube bulbs 30 watts each, would 7w screw in light bulbs work, if I used 4/5, asking them questions cause I know my friends are going to be asking save questions once I get into this. I am going to use Alumilite UV, also saw water diamond clear, but I’ve used alumilite products before good products. Also my motor is 7rpm is that too fast everyone or forms all hv different answers. Any help greatly appreciated befire I start spending money on all the wrong things. Gambleing here text me please no can’t post my phone number but will check back every day and see if anyone has helped me thanks guys be safe god bless
Hello, and yes I do still try to answer all the questions 😄 You can't go wrong with higher wattage, but you should really check out my playlist on this topic. You'll find lots of answers there. ruclips.net/p/PLEVBv_zywucSOtu4FSkyWnDc5groq--WK
No worse than 2 part resin, I think. The UV resin tends to be harder, that means it doesn't flex as much as 2 part resin. So it's a mixed bag, it's tough against a tooth penetrating but can be brittle and crack. If you put on 3 or more coats you'll have a pretty tough lure though.
Hi my friend! What about uv resin inside the black box is it Alumi or the china brand, one of the 2 showed in past video? About UV light what the difference between 360 and 400, here the most common available are 400, important is no go down 360, did I get it right? Thanks
The resin in the black container is an industrial resin used in circuit boards...I've been testing it but I don't recomend it. For the light, no lower than 360nm and no higher than 400nm. 365nm is very easy to find.
360 to 400 mn, got it thanks! What about power, watt? Here I find many kind of uv tipology lights with different power: 5 to 120 watt, it does matter or not? In my uv box, I use the exact same brand from China that in a past video you compared to Luma and you're made very positive comment about, say nothing about, watt does matter or not? Thanks!
@@lannabulls The power of the lights is very important, it determines how quickly the resin will cure. Get as high a wattage light as you can. At minimum 50 watts but no more than 100W.
Ok 50 watt is the average however, if I 'm correct, we can use lower than 50 watt or even sun light, it just takes longer to cure and may related problems that come with a slow curing time, am I right? Thanks!
I always shop around until I find the lowest price. Just keeping in mind a wavelength between 365nm and 395nm with the highest wattage I'm willing to pay for. I almost never buy from the same place twice....
![ARGENTINA vs. CHILE [3-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 7](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/De3AWmXzhuA/mqdefault.jpg)
Love how you come up with solutions that fix multiple issues with one build, from your lure capsule to a simple brush holder. Learning alot from this channel. Thank you
Yes to the longer videos the more content the better... we can always fast forward if we need want to.
Longer videos please. Knowledge it’s about the only this that doesn’t occupied space. Great video btw!
I was looking in to doin the UV clear coat method but I had questions about it . Thank you for answering the exact questions I had.
G'day mate. I'm so glad I found your channel I have learnt so much my mind can't process it !! Quick question, would a grow light from hydroponics work as they have such a broad spectrum. Thanks and keep up the great work you are incredibly inspirational.
Kid regards Craig
I'm afraid it won't work... thank you for watching.
How do you clean your air brush after putting the different finishes through it?
Thanks..great content.
That's a bit of a lengthy topic...ill do a Q&A vid on it, I'm sure other's would like to know. Thanks for the question.
Love it - Usefull information - Considering using UV resin for some of my projects, and bought the same chinese stuff I see you have on the table (Black jar with green leaf pattern) Do you find that there is great difference between this and lets say AlumiUV?
The biggest difference I was finding is that Alumi-UV took just a little bit longer to set really hard and it finished a bit dull..a satin finish. I mentioned that in the video where I com;pare the two types but, since then, it seems that Alumilite has changed their UV Resin formulation because now it sets just as fast and with a high gloss finish. I'm not sure what to make of that...but I am comfortable using both.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the info. Maybe the two products are, at least chemically, the same. Don't know how many producers of UV resin is actually around. I will continue with the chinese stuff as the the custom rules allows me to get that cheaper than Alumilite
What resin is in the black can of UV Clear Padur 1050?
It's an industrial version but is difficult to set in thin coats. I don't use it because of that.
Hello there, nice work man! I have 2x36W nail lamps and curing box, when i setting up the lure and turning on UV, leaving it for 30min. I getting a dull effect, maby i doing something wrong ?
If the resin still has a strong smell it is not fully cured...give it another 30 minutes. I usually leave my lures turning for an hour or more. Some uv resins just don't have a high gloss finish.
I'm using alumi-uv, ill try to take more time, thank you! And what can be, if you holding lure to long in the box, under UV ?
Great video!! Very well explained. One question: Have you used the chinese uv resin to apply it to the lures like a final coat? If so, how was the result? Thanks from Spain!
he has a video about that
@@dathanoutdoors6922 if I am not wrong, in this video he used the chinese uv resin just to make eyes... 🤔
Yup, I made a video comparing Alumi UV to Chinese UV they both work well.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the answer! Yes, I saw it! 😅 But I think that you didnt use it as a final layer, did it? 🤷🏻♂️
That's true I only compared the characteristics of the two resins. I use both of the UV Resins as top finish coats and find them both to work well. I like using at least two coats but three is better. I love Spain, I want to go back to the north coast and do some fishing. Thank you for the question.
When you say UV bulbs are you referring to the UV black light bulbs you can get on Amazon?
You can use black light bulbs but they produce a weak light that will take much longer to set the resin. You can find uv LED spot lights on line that work well. I use the ladies nail setting lights. they are inexpensive and you get twice the wattage for the money. Just be sure you get a UV light with a wavelength between 360 and 395 nM.
Thank you for your share.I have a question that which kind of paint can I use?I found that If I paint the lure with Alcohol Marker，the UV coat can't get dry.
I use only water based paints. The UV resin should work well on oil based paints too.
@@EngineeredAngler Thank you so much!And can you tell me how do to shrink the water based colour?Can I use the alcohol？
No...alcohol is not a good thinner. You can use the pre-made thinners. Most airbrush paint makers sell thinners or reducers for their paints. There are also DIY vedios you can try. Good luck.
@@EngineeredAngler Thank you!
I used to carve my own lures as a kid and got frustrated because there was nothing suitable to use as a clear-coat. Retired now and with these modern products, lure making is on the winter project list! My experience with UV resins is limited to the (extremely expensive - $45 per ounce!!!) products from Loon Outdoors and Solarez that I use for fly tying. If you are familiar with the Loon Outdoors and Solarez products would you compare them to the chinese resin for me? Five minutes to drip; five minutes to level; 20% thinning for spraying... would you please describe the viscosity of the chinese resin so I get an idea of what it would be like to work with it - sounds like would be similar to "table syrup" in viscosity. Sorry for all the questions, I've made many composite (wood/fiberglass) canoes and kayaks so I am used to modifying (thickening) the epoxies properties with fillers but have done nothing to try to thin them - I'm just trying to get a handle on the UV resins - especially the chinese one as I can get it locally (Canada). Thanks in advance! Hank
Happy to have the questions and hope you can spend some time building lures this winter.
I have used Solarez quite a bit over the past decades, it has its uses but not for lure clear coats (my opinion). I have tested four different UV suppliers and for ease of use, quality of finish, and value the Chinese brand is best for lure building. The viscosity is just about like thirty weight motor oil.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the reply! 30 weight oil - got it! Started viewing your videos from the beginning - really enjoying seeing someone else's way of doing things.
Will conformal coat for electronics work for uv?? I noticed the stuff that glows under a blacklight
I have tried some...in fact I have a gallon of the stuff. you need powerful lights to set it quickly. It sets a little matte not quite glossy.
I’m new to Alumi UV Ive had some issues with a second coat repelling and pulling back. Should I be wiping with alcohol in between coats? I’m wearing nitrile gloves not touching the lures with my hands.
Thanks.
Yes...wiping with alcohol is a must between coats. I like to take #000 steel wool and knock down the gloss then wipe down with alcohol. Then I am not shy with the second coat, I pile it on and turn it with out the lights for 5 minutes to get the bubble out. Results are supper ratifying! Good luck.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the info. I did it once with success but the second time it was a disaster. I will give it another shot.
Thank you Sir. 🙏🏽
I was looking for a "fade resistant", fast drying clear cast for use over spray painted art works? I may be lost, but i know a fair share of how uv clear works. Quantity, affordability, & reasonable fade resistance are my main focus im looking for? Applied like a boat veneer with foam brush. :-)
UV cure resin is pretty tough and more resistant to yellowing than anything else I've seen. Its no inexpensive and its kind of brittle so if you're putting it over something that flexes much it might crack.
@@EngineeredAngler Hoping the solarez is correct product for me?, looking for that nudge to try it, ha... I do painting both on "concrete" art, once an acrylic white paint & primer base is applied & also concrete epoxied adhered foil graphics, which is even faster of a process. The work encounters sun that fades my colors within only one season of exposure. :-[ Potential exposure to salt water, & vehicular run over, as well as different weather conditions.
But non yellowing is good, but not always proven to stop a season of fading. 10 years of painting & haven't settled on anything great. Considering more expensive ootions. No paint is perfect, but need to find something favorable.
Is 405 NM too much from a 60w??
I e watch this video several times and I’m having a issue with my UV clear. I dipped it this past time on 16 lures. Nice and slow and allowed to drip for a period of time. Buts after 20 minutes the clear thinned out and even pulled away from the lure leaving bare areas. Nothing I can’t fix, but I hate wasting more time into baits. I used rubber gloves throughout the process, never touching the baits with my hands. All baits were cleaned with denatured alcohol prior to painting. For
The life of me I can’t figure out why it’s doing this. And yes my UV clear is nice and warm prior to applying to the baits. Any thoughts Franco as to why it’s doing this?
It is probably the paint on the lure. I have had this happen and that's why I seal my paint with a good coat of minwax polyacrylic. amzn.to/3oaBU6F
@@EngineeredAngler ever try the rustoleum ultra clear? Was thinking trying that.
@@EngineeredAngler probably not the paint. I used candy 2o on some of them with the same results
@@EngineeredAngler do you brush, dip or spray the poly on the bait.
What’s the dilution rate with denatured alcohol and uv resin to spray it with an airbrush?
20% by volume works well with my airbrush...could be different with different needle sizes.
How much time to put a lure on lure rotary after applying epoxy ?
That depends on the epoxy, but usually 8 to 12 hours.
In contineous rotation or stagnant ... That is d key for me ?
At the beginning of the video you are holding a lure in a clamp with a handle. Where did you buy this?
That is something that I make.
@@EngineeredAngler can you share a pic or describe how you make them? I would like to try making some to hold the musky lures i make
Dought you read these comments still, but maybe someone will be able to answer me. I am new to UV top coating. The hv nail cuter has a bunch of little led hv lights and says 120 watt light. Is this too much wattage? Should I go with tube bulbs 30 watts each, would 7w screw in light bulbs work, if I used 4/5, asking them questions cause I know my friends are going to be asking save questions once I get into this. I am going to use Alumilite UV, also saw water diamond clear, but I’ve used alumilite products before good products. Also my motor is 7rpm is that too fast everyone or forms all hv different answers. Any help greatly appreciated befire I start spending money on all the wrong things. Gambleing here text me please no can’t post my phone number but will check back every day and see if anyone has helped me thanks guys be safe god bless
Hello, and yes I do still try to answer all the questions 😄
You can't go wrong with higher wattage, but you should really check out my playlist on this topic. You'll find lots of answers there.
ruclips.net/p/PLEVBv_zywucSOtu4FSkyWnDc5groq--WK
How well do you think uv resins would hold up to big saltwater game fish with big teeth?
No worse than 2 part resin, I think. The UV resin tends to be harder, that means it doesn't flex as much as 2 part resin. So it's a mixed bag, it's tough against a tooth penetrating but can be brittle and crack. If you put on 3 or more coats you'll have a pretty tough lure though.
@@EngineeredAngler I greatly appreciate the info! Thank you and aloha from hawaii 🤙🤙
Hi my friend! What about uv resin inside the black box is it Alumi or the china brand, one of the 2 showed in past video?
About UV light what the difference between 360 and 400, here the most common available are 400, important is no go down 360, did I get it right?
Thanks
The resin in the black container is an industrial resin used in circuit boards...I've been testing it but I don't recomend it.
For the light, no lower than 360nm and no higher than 400nm.
365nm is very easy to find.
@@EngineeredAngler
Thanks so much!
360 to 400 mn, got it thanks!
What about power, watt? Here I find many kind of uv tipology lights with different power: 5 to 120 watt, it does matter or not? In my uv box, I use the exact same brand from China that in a past video you compared to Luma and you're made very positive comment about, say nothing about, watt does matter or not?
Thanks!
@@lannabulls
The power of the lights is very important, it determines how quickly the resin will cure. Get as high a wattage light as you can. At minimum 50 watts but no more than 100W.
Ok 50 watt is the average however, if I 'm correct, we can use lower than 50 watt or even sun light, it just takes longer to cure and may related problems that come with a slow curing time, am I right? Thanks!
anyone have a link to some good budget uv lights that work great for uv resins?
I always shop around until I find the lowest price. Just keeping in mind a wavelength between 365nm and 395nm with the highest wattage I'm willing to pay for. I almost never buy from the same place twice....
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the reply sir