Why Do I Make Things Harder || Airstream Interior Walls
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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The author does like to from scratch, ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
This man is a national treasure. He just speaks the true language of people buying airstreams who need to restore them who shouldn’t. We don’t know what we’re doing and we feel so much less alone after watching him construct a wall. Also, the 1/8 inch birch plywood to form the curved wall is genius. We’re not worthy!
I have thoroughly been enjoying this series. If I've learned anything, it's at my age, there is no way I would EVER want to re-model a trailer. Thanks.
co-sign.
Agreed!
I wouldn't want to do it at Jason's age.
Lucky for me, my wife just wants me to build out stuff in a van. 😂
@@powrfwd37 pretty sure he is quite young...haha.
@@windmonk100 Me too. That's my point here. LoL
I found myself wanting to call to you and say, "Don't rotate the scriber - It will make the piece too narrow!" Starting with the scriber perfectly vertical, slide it along the curve keeping it vertical. The result should be an exact match to the shape as far as the width of the material allows. This is the same way we all scribe countertops to fit the unevenness of the wall. For vertical matching like the edge of a tall cabinet against an uneven wall, the scriber is held horizontally. Thanks for the video. Nice looking project.
When scribing the ply, you must hold the "scribing stick" vertical at all times. Not 90` angle from the roof/wall, I usually use a level to scribe with
This was obvious to me as he was working too. I was almost yelling at the screen!! :) :) :)
Oh is that how it's done? Can you tell me how I can keep the spacing going from the roof to the wall?
You don't need spacing from the roof to the wall. Cutting more material from the sides is just super wasteful
@@Goalsplus Vertical is not necessary, but the same angle is. You can start at 45%, but then end at 45% degrees. That way you can scribe without problems from your roof to your wall and have it perfect.
@wendeavontuur thanks very much. Now I get it. Things are falling into place. Do you have any advice on how to keep the 45 degree angle consistent? And how to do it with a floor?
Best thing about Saturday mornings, a new Bourbon Moth video!
Hi there, I enjoy your videos. Let me give you at tip that should help with the rest of your curved construction: you're scribing wrong. You should hold the scribing tool in the same orientation through the whole scribe. If you are starting with it straight up and down, keep it that way. Don't rotate it as you go around the curve. It's a little counterintuitive because it feels like you want it perpendicular to the curve, but you don't!
If you adjust your technique, you'll find you need many fewer passes to get a perfect fit. Good luck!
Coming along nicely! Why not try to move the scribing tool in a parallel motion? Then you will actually copy the shape on the right scale. The "sliding over" issue won't be a problem any more. And you will get quicker to the needed shape. The way you do it it will great a much smaller shape. You will get there but in many more steps. Good luck!
The easier solution was not to tilt the scribe tool.
If it remain verticaly - you won't have reduction of width
How do you hold the tool vertically when scribing a vertical wall?
@@SLorraineE The point is not to hold it vertical but to retain the angle all through the scribe... scibing a curve like this might work best with a 45 degree tilt so that the scribe kan clear all the shapes. Every situation might demand a different angle.
@@SLorraineEyou only ever want to shift the piece in 1 direction. Whichever angle you pick, is the angle the scribe needs to point at all times. To see it more clearly think of a square shelf going in to a corner. You scribe side 1 to the wall and cut, then scribe side 2 to it's wall and cut, the side 1 will no longer fit because it shifted from the original position by however much was cut on side 2.
This was so painful to watch.
Another plywood material you might try for curved areas I have had success with is called “wackey board” it is laminated plywood with a fabric layer bonded in the center…it can be bent into radius curves easily without breaking or cutting multilevel slots or grooves. Used in furniture often. And can be surfaced with paint or plastic laminate… or metal such as aluminum.
Yep. I’ve used wacky wood, it bends very easily.
We used to call it wiggle board. I've used it quite a bit in my career. There are 2 options....curl on width or curl on length. Great stuff
You can also just steam the plywood so it bends exactly as you want it to bend. plus side of this is when the plywood cools down and is dry, it keeps its shape with no tension at all.
I was thinking the same thing. PLUS, make a template in the shop, bend, dry it, THEN take it to the vessel of curves on wheels.
Really thought it was going to be a 'shoulda steamed it'
I have a friend that learn to fix cars by taking the engines apart and marking where each screw and part went. He took a while to get it right and lots of folks laughed but he is the best mechanic in our small town now. You are loads ahead of where he started. But the main thing I see in you is the willingness to go outside of your comfort zone. That is where all the learning goes on in life.
Sometimes the hands-on approach to learning is the best. You can learn a lot from reading and watching other people, but all that is just theory until you actually do it yourself to see what really works!
Noticed a gutted Airstream on Marketplace the other day, and thought: "Hey. Jason can do one. How about me?" Then I watched your videos again and remembered that I'm a mediocre woodworker at best. So I did not make an offer. Thanks for saving me about $30k in wasted materials and about 900 hours of stress.
As a retired contractor who lost his shirt estimating time on all my first jobs,I came up with a scientific formula based on a consistent time overrun. Take your build time,add clean up,design discussion,chit chat, occasional oversight and .......DOUBLE IT. Worked every time. Cheers.
I love that your son plays and “active” part in a lot of your work. I haven’t worked on an Airstream but have used many of you videos for construction of my kitchen and bathroom cabinets. Simple, common sense commentary with a bit of humour thrown in works perfectly for me. I may just tackle a trailer reno!
This reminds me of the first time I had to make a template. I went to the plywood rack and grabbed some very thin plywood and started to fit it to the bottom of the hull. It was funny looking because it had spots. The expression on the foreman's face was priceless as he told me I had just used a piece of very expensive maple plywood to make my template. Birds Eye Maple. $300 for a 4x8 sheet back in the late 80's. Whoops!
Some time ago, I too had an airstream. It was a 1960 Airstream Safari Land yacht, single axle. It was a victim of deferred maintenance, one might say, so I took it upon myself to complete a restomod. I detached the shell from the frame and everything. I cussed, I bled and I learned. Unfortunately, the circumstances of life presented no other option, but to cut my losses, about 10,000 of them, and sell it before I finished. It was for the better, everything is fine now, but I still think of what might have been, had I made better choices.
At any rate, I now watch you “struggle” through the parts I didn’t get a chance to do myself, and I’m enjoying every minute of it. Thanks for sharing.
I think your scribe technique is absolute genius. It may be time consuming, but the results are extraordinary. Especially for someone who has no idea what he is doing.
Actually, what he should have done was keep the scribe in one angle the same at all times. So he started vertical, he should've kept it vertical.
In marine fitouts I seen arches done with multiple layers of really thin, flexible plywood built up to look like a much thicker curved piece of wood. Love your videos and humour.
Hey, maybe you're already aware of this, but have you looked into building walls out of foam? It's about a third of the weight of a traditional stick frame wall, and just as strong if laminated properly.
This build is more or less the exact opposite of @TheDuracellProject, where everything is vacuum formed foam core GRP. I appreciate the craftsmanship on both. I was also prompted to comment here by the weight of this inside wall. Then again, I have seen the truck that will tow this trailer. My euro car frame of reference for towing loads doesn’t apply in the slightest.
When scribing I think you need to keep your dog ball flinger perfectly vertical as you move it, your action is more to rotate it.
I'm not certain but that makes sense in my brain!
Loving this series, great progress!
Just a trick I use with the grey tank vent. Instead of making a hole in the roof I loop it above the flood line of the sink and down through a hole in the floor.
For someone who doesn’t have any clue what they are doing, you sure are clever. (Seriously, that scribe trick was awesome!)
I like the un-scribe technique (forever associated now with BourbonMoth) , but it occurs to me if the panel is moving up only, holding scribe perpendicular(kinda like square) to that direction of movement and not perpendicular to the path (that would require the wood to stretch?) ; I think that initial cut would be closer. Maybe in this case we pick 45 degrees as a constant angle to hold the scribe at, and the cut piece goes up and over along a 45 degree path.
I was going to give you advice on making better videos and about how to better build out an Airstream. Then I realized I don't have a RUclips channel, have never made a video, and have never built out an Airstream. So I'll just say I love your videos Jason. Keep it up man. Love the channel.
Start by say your are an amazing wood worker....
Thank you for all your videos...
You were looking for a shop to come to and help with a project...
I'm in Bridgeport ny
Retired electrician
Bought a house on a lake.A attached 2200 sq ft shop was included, go figure anyway well equipped
Need to figure out how to match existing oak cabinet doors to existing cabinet doors. I built the new cabinet boxes.... having trouble matching rail and style profile.. oh yea. Raise pannle matching too..
You may have been able to achieve your goal with the door archway by using a round nose router bit instead of cutting kerfs. I used this method with a 16" wide by 8' long 3/4" piece of melamine. Over the middle 4' length I routed a 1/2 flute about 1-1/2" OC about 3/8" deep. This was for a Pinewood Derby track so it need to be moved around and reused so I had to keep it from breaking. Using kerfs would make it more prone to breaking, as you experienced, due to the sharp corners. The round corners reduce that. I also reinforced it by using 2 3/4" aluminum flat bars. One end of the bar is fixed in position and runs along the fluted side of the board. The other end of the bars have a slot that the screw can travel in as the board is arched. The spacing and depth allows the board to bend to about a 45 degree arc and allows the cars to make a smooth transition from the upper part of the track to the lower portion. Using a narrower round nose bit and some trial and error on the spacing and depth may just due it on the next Airstream you refurbish.
Thanks for all your videos.
I’m in the middle stages of building out my second airstream. The first, a 1956, was a restoration. The new one, 1962, is a custom like yours. I’m watching hoping to steal some ideas and enjoying it much.
Comments thus far: excellent craftsmanship as always. That’s a lot of plywood, be careful or your vintage airstream will weigh as much a as a new one. Airstreams are very flexible going down the road. Not sure how your wall attachment, which looks stiff, will survive.
Can’t wait for your next installment.
Some boat builders I watch used something called joggle sticks to do a lot of the work for complex shapes for walls (bulkheads) in their boat.
also hold your scribe at the same angle the whole duration of your scribe line.
Hi! You can use a circle thing as a scribing tool. Just put the pencil in a center and rolling it. Sorry for bad English!
Jason have you seen the Tally Ho boat build? Check how they make accurate curved walls: make a rough piece thats too small, tack it in place, then hot-glue a ton of tabs to it that touch the wall. Now you have a template to trace around perfectly.
For scribing curved areas ideal thing is wooden wheel with hole in the center for sharpie, diameter of wheel about 10cm. Just roughly cut ply to shape and then mark with wheel
To make your curved piece with the veneer showing you could make a mold and slowly bend it around on work work table. A steaming tube out of PVC pipe and a kettle also helps with bendability. Once in place you can use expanding window foam to fill all of the kerf cuts. Once dry…….voila!
Ends up I have the same airstream and was having the same dilemma with what to do with the curved wall for my bathroom and I need to run plumbing through it. This was beyond helpful so thank you so much!
That scrubbing technique was awesome, I’ve never seen that before
Boat builders face these kinds of scribing-on-curved-surfaces issues all the time. Putting up that first temporary piece of ply is actually a great first step. But after that, the easiest way is either to use a *"ticking stick"* (plenty of videos about it, and would take too long to describe it here. But it's really simple...), or hot-glueing a whole bunch of thin ply scraps to your 'main' board, which poke out in all directions and just-touch the inside of your curved roof/walls (creating a big spiky template). I'd recommend using the ticking stick method, as its easier than trying to manhandle a gigantic spiky template out of your tiny front door :)
You could have scribed holding the tool constantly plumb. As you got to the wall the gap of the scribe to the wall will narrow, but what you are scribing is a trace of the surface an inch lower. Once you get the top done,say to the top of the windows, clamp the top piece in with the bottom parallel to the floor. Take a new piece to do the sides. This time hold the tool level. You will then get the side profile and the template will slide sideways to the wall. Then join the side template to the top. Now repeat the other side. You will need fewer cuts and back and forth that way.
You can control the shape of the kerf by cutting a plywood template in the shape of the inside curve. Drill big holes in the template to clamp the kerf in place. Then glue the layers of the curve together. You can even do this with multiple thin layers instead of cutting kerfs. Perfect job for the shaper as you can cnc nice even curves.
Don't forget to put some vents in your door or wall to allow fresh air to pass through and for the air conditioning to get in.
My wife who is a former school teacher said that she handled weird shaped builds by using excessive amounts of butcher paper as a template before using the good stuff for her projects (think cardboard displays and props). Perhaps that might help here? Anyways.... Thanks for entertaining us with your build, good luck with the next part!
This series is killing me. I built a 23 ft boat with only one square corner so every time you mention lack of squareness, I can't stop giggling. BTW.....beautiful work.
If I have to match a piece of plywood to a curved wall (like in your case) I tape a cardboard strip with painters tape to the curved section (similar to the first piece of plywood that you screwed to the ceiling and the walls) and then use plenty of cardboard pieces upright to the strip and hotglue everything together. if you use enough pieces to stiffen out the contraption, you can remove the painters tape and you have a perfect and stable contour of the curved section that you can use for creating an almost perfect template from plywood. The last gaps can be closed by the old Pencil-in-a-washer trick to match the contour of the Plywood perfectly to the curve.
21:34 now that's a useful pro tip Jason!
seejanedrill has a fantastic video on how to scribe these kinds of areas using what’s called a “ticking stick”. I use one frequently and I have never had to cut my final piece more than once. I hope this helps in some of the other curved areas.
On yachts we deal with a lot of the same issues (nothing is straight or square) instead of scribing you may want to try to make door skin strip templates with hot glue.
Green is a wonderful color! I’m a big fan of blue, but I live in the PNW too, can’t live here without loving me some green! 🤣
I looked at the descriptions to see your favorite color and it really was there.👍
Scribing the line back on to a bigger piece just blew my mind, so obvious, but completely mind blowing like the end of the original saw movie. Look I made a joinery reference to a movie🤦🏻♂️
I love that you actually put your favorite color in the description. A man of your word!
13:27 you got me! I had no faith and I totally thoughts it was going to break 😂
the scribe explanation is one of the best explanations i've ever heard! ok, i knew how to scribe straight lines, but didn't know the downside of inside curves... great work!
When I paneled the inside of my camper, I hot glued patterns that followed the shape of the wall which removed all scribing out of the process. And for your curved door, you should have used bender wood.
If you’d like to contact me, I can send you some photos
Dont vent plumbing thru the roof, if you can avoid it. That would invite leaks. Use a sure-vent air admittance valve
The black tank must be vented to allow for gas escape. Otherwise sewer gas ends up in the RV.
"Favorite Color: Green" - I had to check, and you were definitely not lying.
I learn something every time I watch one of your videos, Airstream looking good!
Great video. I am surprised we didn't see any wood steaming. The +scribe is an awesome tip.
I love the storytelling in these videos
“I have absolutely no clue, but that’s never stopped me before.” Words to live by!
You can never have enough of a variety of clamps in this profession and in large numbers !
Love how you show the finished wall at the start of the video so i fint have to Watch more than 30 seconds
Need to make some compartments on the inside of that wall for some storage. Bed side of wall.
Jason, as a fellow, tatted, bearded, bourbon loving, woodworker and adoptive dad I must say I truly love you brother. That being said let’s talk scribing technique, yours can be greatly improved and reduce time and waste with the simple modification of one thing. As you are scribing you are keeping your scribe bar/tennis ball launcher/4 fingers (a better amount of bourbon than 2 fingers) roughly perpendicular to the wall at any given moment during your scribe. Instead start with your scribe bar in the vertical position and the bar should remain vertical throughout the entire scribe. If you start horizontally it should remain horizontal for the entire scribe, if you are working flat the same principal applies. The position of the scribe bar should remain parallel with its own original starting position throughout the entire scribe. Don’t alter the angle. So that being said, thanks for all you do. Keep it up. Especially keep loving and supporting that foreman of yours. He desperately needs it. Adoption is tough as I am sure you know, but worth every effort. Hang in there through the tough times and find support for you and your wife along that journey. God bless. Thanks David Stolpe of Goose and Grain Woodwright.
Thanks for sharing your journey! Really enjoy watching someone else struggle...😂
Respect to you Sir! You are a beautiful human
I really enjoy your ingenuity with tackling problems like this as well as your frank admission of feeling your way humourously to solutions.
Looks like building in an Airstream would be a good reason to get a 3D scanner or an app for your phone to help template on all of the curved surfaces.
Green is my favourite colour too!!! Knew there was something I liked about you!
OMG! That scribing thingy makes perfect sense. Thank you!
Jason, I really enjoy your videos I always learn something. In the rest of your build you may want to try using a "ticking stick" to capture the curve of the airstream. It's an old method used by boat builders to create complex patterns. Thanks for all the effort in providing us with great content!
A simple question: how about using hot glue to temporarily adhere the divider wall's top/outer laminate plate layers to the ceiling, and to each other, with hot glue, then sink screws after the total laminate sandwich is cured? Then it's removable. Apol if already suggested: you're so popular with so many comments I can't read them all. Good work!
Great way to start the morning... coffee and bourbonmoth!
loved the dog ball launcher scribe! creative with the tools hes got.
When scribe always maintain the scribe 90 to the floor to avoid removing the material on the side it will only slide up once you remove the material.
HOLY CRAP! "inverted scribe" technique is brilliant. Not sure what wood ninja showed you that method but it is genius.
I think you're instincts are spot on. Looking good! Don't forget with the plumbing drains they need a vertical vent pipe out the roof
Also, as an owner of a '66 model, I recommend putting a piece of thick weather strip foam along the inside top edge of the exterior door. Having bumped my head way too many time going out the door, this solution saves me a lot of headaches. Literally.
Your initial framing arch was a rather ingenious 'Brute Force' approach to solving that problem and, almost certainly, the one I would have used. Kudos on that. But the arched doorway you wanted could have been achieved ALMOST EXACTLY the same way. But, rather than making the entire arch, just make segments for the corners. Cut out a pattern or mold that spans the width of the door and conform the strips of 1/4"" plywood slathered with glue around that arch until it sets. then screw that piece to your existing frame.
Square board=square opening. wicked smart.
I will again recommend Tally Ho or Acorn to Arabella as excellent examples of how to do cabinetry on a curved surface.
"You go to school on the first one!" ( Jimmy Diresta ) My catch phrase..."Murphy is my mentor!" That's a lot of plywood? Nicely done sir!
You are making good progress on the trailer and I love watching you and Iver's relationship.
If you have more curved and odd shapes to fit into your build, consider watching some videos on using a joggle stick or ticking stick which are often used in building out boat hulls. You might find it useful and a lot less wasted plywood.
Simpler solution. Buy a roll of heavy duty craft wrapping paper and double sided tape. Put little squares of double sided tape on your stud work and stick the heavy duty paper to the wall. Then re-enforce with packing tape, then cut with a box cutter. Then carefully remove your paper and use it as a template to scribe to your plywood, adding a 16th of an inch as a buffer for the cutting blade and sanding. Probably will work?
To make an arched doorway, cut the arch into 2 pieces of plywood and put them up at the top of the doorway so there is something for the kerfed piece to push up against. It is a lot stronger that way.
Bought the new hat. Got it last night. Couldn't wait to wear it. Father-in-law called, needed some new steps for his hot tub. Said I got this. Built the steps. And he sat on my new bourbon moth hat. Deviated.
Check into getting Sasquatch soap as a sponsor.
You’d make a rather handsome, witty, & sassy Sasquatch product-hawker.
You can save a TON of wasted plywood when you scribe curves, if you keep the scribing tool VERTICAL. Do not rotate it perpendicular to the surface you are scribing. Keep it parallel to wherever you had it when you started.
For templating the curves of these walls, you need a 'tick stick' as used a lot by boat builders. Seen in use a lot in the 'acorn to arabella' and 'rebuilting tallyho' video series.
you could use 1/8 ply and putting it flat against the wall bend the curve and add blocking to the ends so you can attach a frame to it making kind of like a cookie cutter then use that as the template. I've done this several times with the interior of boats to make templates. great series by the way cant wait to see the completed project.
Funny woodworking guy... I didn’t understand any of the words of technique or tools, but it was fun to watch and listen! 😂- watching from Lake Wales, Florida
Should have turned a few of those spaces made by the wall framing into pull out storage. Kinda like those file holders they screw on doors at the hospital. Could have done it on the bed side to keep it hidden.
Hey Jason! I really appreciate your craftsmanship and the way it is presented. I do have a video request if you need material for one at some point. CLAMPS? I know I could use some education on types of clamps, when and where to use them and why certain ones need to be used. Keep up the great work and content brother!
I LOL'd at that slow look at the camera on the failed kerf. Love your stuff man
Great progress. Time consuming getting the panels lined up precisely.
Love the content, and the wholesome family ad read. Keep doing you!
it made sense. but I think you can take that logic and use it at a bigger scale. after you clamped your squer sheet of plywood, take a bycicle wheel or cut a circle from wood. take a pencil and pass it throug the middle of the circle. now you can scribe a line thats a set distance from the airstreem walls on to the scrap piece of plywood. now take it to the shop. cut the scribed line, set the finale piece of wood you want to cut beneeth the cut plywood. roll the edge of the wheel on the scribe line you just cut, with the pencil trought the middle on the outside. now you are drawing a line thats the same distance, and basically adding the exact amount of matirial you need.
less cutting and measuring. and by changing the radius of the circle, you can cut shallower curves.
hope you read this and this would help
What made the scribing off more is that you changed the angle of your offset. That effectively shrunk the outline of the scribe and made the radius tighter. Next time you have to scribe keep a fixed angle for your scribing offset. Should get you closer faster.
Keep the scrib plumb, and you will have fewer issues. Or vertical. You just have to keep it consistent.
Usually, I'd comment on your technique. But I wanna say that was theee nicest HelloFresh plug ever. Just have a soft spot for father/son moments. Outstanding work, sir! You're evited to the BBQ.
Looks great to me😊
Really looking great. You talk about it going really slow and not making much progress, but with everything that’s involved to cut a single sheet to fit I’m impressed you’ve done so much already.
fun build! but that bed looks small. taking 5 inches off each side storage compartment would give you some more room to move around when your sleeping 🤩I really enjoy your videos!