just got back into cycling after a 30+ year break. I bought a 1x gravel bike and after a year of riding (relatively hilly terrain) I’m liking it and I prefer the clean look and simplicity. Mine is a 40 tooth chainring with an 11 speed 42 tooth rear.
Much lower and you'd be blowing up freehubs. Nobody talks about the physics behind that. The old freewheel systems, you could get away with a 20 gear inch low. Not anymore. The freehubs can't really handle the torque of a sub 1:1 gear ratio. Hence, the 1x system. I run 3x7. 28:28 low. 48:12 high. On a cassette hub. No drivetrain problems because it's all within the realm of reasonable engineering. 100,000 miles on average before I have to change anything.
I’m running 1x on my road bike (44t and 10-36), but I live in a place with only moderate hills and am a decent climber. I like it for me and where I ride, but definitely not for everyone in all situations. 2x still suits the majority of drop bar bikes.
Let's be honest: it just looks cool. I have both. It doesn't have any real advantages in almost all situations. Mostly disadvantages. Unless you think shifting is difficult.
Disagree... I think it looks pants. Much prefer the look of a double chainring and lets be honest for pretty much any road rider 2x drivetrains are just better. The gaps between gears on 1x are just too large.
I think it looks worse actually, the only advantage is that you can reduce over 200 grams( 120 fderaileur, about 70 from 1 chainring, and also about 70 grams from the cable), and all of that is fixed weight that is only noticeable on climbs if you are really really really fit
Currently have a two-by and the electronic shifting and it is working well for me right now. However, my biggest reason to probably go one-by is because of the gear ratios. The industry is so keen on keeping a 1:1 gear ratio or worse on 2by setups. A 36/28 ratio might be fine if you live in an area with low gradients and willing to get into low cadence on that hill that is only 4% steep but I love spinning and my hills can sometimes hit double digits at times. And the 3x setup I had before I transitioned to a 2x setups had an even more generous gear ratio range than the 1:1 that I now have. I would love to have a higher climbing ratio than 1:1 which is very common in 1x gravel setups but difficult to find in 2x setups.
imho both the Canyon Roadlite (1X 46T chainring 10-51T 12 gears) and the Canyon Pathlite (1X 36T chainring 10-51T 12 gears) are the way to go for future bikes. I got a 2X road bike and a 3X MTB and 1X has always been my dream bike, however, I wanted a bike with the nimbleness of my road bike (48-34T 11-34T) and the huge gear ratio of my mountain bike (22-30-40T 11-34T) and after a lot of time when I discovered the Canyon Roadlite I wanted to cry out of emotion. Gorgeous, super light, faster than my road bike.., and much better at climbing. However I ended up getting the Canyon Pahtlite 6 'cos I live in a rural mountainous area and it's a better suited bike for that.
Thanks Chris...I am OAF , and new to biking , and I bought 3 bikes without knowing enough . I have , a 2X road, a 2X MTB and a 1X gravel bike . Where I live , and my age , made me understand that Gravel is my best surface ! City drivers , and insane technical stuff convinced me to get off the road and on a rail trail in the woods ! 1X is the easiest for me , as I don't have to think about it anymore ?
Have had both. 2x wins in virtually every scenario for me. The massive jumps in gears on a 1x don’t work for my natural cadence. Weight - yes, you have an extra chainring on a 2x, but some of this is offset by a lighter cassette. 1x dinner plates are heavy. More reliable? Not in my experience. The worst thing that can happen to a 2x is that you end up riding a 1x…. With di2 I’ve never dropped a front chain, nor got it stuck between the chainrings. Also, 2x grx rear mech has a clutch too. Ultimately, I suppose 1x will work for some, but it’s not the way forward for any sort of riding that involves road or smooth gravel. The jumps between gears are just too big. Campag sort of solved it with Ekar as the jumps at the faster end of the cassette are much smaller for when you’re likely to be moving faster. But it’s a compromise.
I have 1x12 Rival / eagle axs mix on my gravel bike the rpm difference between the gears is small enough, 1x11 isn't. I can always find my optimal cadence ( between 90 and 100). The only time I would want 2x maybe, is when riding very very flat terrain for a long time.
I think it certainly is an option for some. My partner much prefers it for its simplicity too. Gear jumps are getting better and better as new components arrive.
Until I recently purchased my new Marin Kentfield 2 hybrid/city bike, I was totally against 1x drivetrains. As far as I was concerned, the ultimate in drivetrains was the trusty 3x8; nothing was better, as it offered you various ranges of gears. However, when I test rode the Marin Kentfield 2, I was like, "Hey, this is a nice bike! This 1x setup might not be so bad." I liked the bike and got it a couple of weeks ago. As I've ridden it, I've grown to like its 1x10 drivetrain; it has a 38 tooth wide-narrow chainring up front with a 10 speed, 11-48 cassette on the rear wheel. The gears are well chosen and perfectly suited for the riding I do. The Marin's 1x10 setup has almost the same high and low gears that my Fuji MTB's 3x8 drivetrain does. The jumps in gears aren't that extreme, either; they feel just right. They're perfect for when I'm going uphill, because by the time I complete the downshift, the momentum and speed I've lost is perfectly suited for the gear I've changed into. What's the moral of the story here? Don't knock 1x drivetrains until you've TRIED them!
1x all the way. Lighter, less moving parts, less tuning, less maintenance and service, lighter weight. Just less can go wrong. As a PT mechanic, sure I can make more when customers bring in 2x and 3x but many riders cross chain all the time and don’t understand and expect zero noise when the chain is at its extreme angles.
got a 2X road bike and a 3X MTB and now that I have gotten the 1X Canyon Pathlite 6 I don't want a 2X or 3X bike anymore. The only advantage of 2X and 3X is imho the emergency gear switching (well, chainring switching). As I explained in another comment, my dream bike has always been a bike with the nimbleness of my road bike (48-34T 11-34T) and the huge gear ratio of my mountain bike (22-30-40T 11-34T), so I discovered the 1X (46T chainring 12 gears 10-51T cassette) Canyon Roadlite 6 out of sheer chance and I almost got all emotional 'cos it was like someone had listened to what I wanted and made a bike suited to my tastes. 46-10 (hardest gear of the Roadlite) is faster than 48-11 of my road bike and 46-51T (easiest gear) is much better than 34-34 to climb, specially in my very hilly and very rainy region. I ended up getting the Canyon Pathlite 6 (same drivetrain specs than the Roadlite 6, but it the chainring has 36T instead of 46T) and not the Canyon Roadlite 6 'cos I live in a place with rough terrain and very rainy weather, but the idea of both bikes is perfect. Also I prefer flat bars to drop bars, so it's even better.
Coming into cycling later in life. Could never figure when to change chainrings and then figuring out how to change the rear to offset. So glad I’m on 1x now. The only thing I miss from 2x is being able to quickly change big for short 2-3sec pitches
Mine is a 1x crux with 46t up front and 11:28 cassette. I did a 230 km ride with 3100m of climbing and the only thing that was difficult were a few 15% hills. I was amazed by how it worked. That said, this kind of setup is for road only
@@ChrisHallRides Why? Not low enough gear ratio? I calculated the ratios on my Canyon Grail with 1x SRAM Force (12 speed cassette), and it's almost exactly the same range as the 2x GRX Di2, just slightly larger gaps between mid gears. I feel like everyone saying "1x is bad for climbing/speed" are simply using limited cassettes that don't reach those ratios.
1x all the way for me. I remember the old times when MTBs had 3x systems and I hated them for so many reasons: never had much use for the big chainring, dropped chains, rubbing front mechs, having to think about how to avoid cross chaining, the sheer amount of gunk accumulating between the chainrings, etc. If I´d ever go back to 2x it would only be with electronic shifting which I also hate because of the exorbitant price tag and the need to keep batteries charged.
@@ChrisHallRides 😊 So im getting back into cycling now im semi retired. I've a 30+yr old Marin 3x mtb which I changed the tyres for more road friendly to get me out & about again. Looking at replacing so 1x seems the way to go....
I just bought my first 1x drivetrain, 11 speed sensah 11-46 cassette and a 42 chainring. I havent installed it yet. It's going on a carbon road bike with flat bars for commuting to work. If I like it, I will be doing the same thing with some of my other bikes.
@@ChrisHallRides Well I tried it for a week and I have to say I love the simplicity of it, I haven't missed the other 11 gears I normally have at all. I am actually pondering going 1x on my road bike if my opinion hasn't changed in a month or so. I also like the fact I can zip through the gears without having to trim the front mech and theres no rub anywhere. Awesome, cheers!
I still ride my old 3x10 MTB (11-32T rear and 24-32-42T front) and my biggest problem with 1X is lack of range and top end gears. Maybe riding only off road would be fine, but as soon I enter gravel or road its not enough gears. In the last 12 years i replaced largest chainring 4 times and middle one 2 times. Smallest chainring and 3 largest rear sprockets are rarely unused. Considering modern MTB frames can't fit larger than 36T chainring im not sure about the upgrading and my MTB is on it's last legs.
Also in the last 12 years i never dropped the chain, because of derailleur clutch. I had chain suck couple of times which bend front derailleur cage and i used pliers ti straighten it back up and after couple of times just replaced it and it costed less than 15 EUR.
Cassettes going down to a 10 tooth make a surprising amount of difference with needing a hard gear. You’ll also be able to find frames with bigger clearance
yes not just the groupset though! They'll mess with the chainline or remove the option to fit an fd all together...(more aero or something!)..so you'll be forced to buy new yet again!
I've been on 1x for years. Main reason.....mtb background, no other reason than it looks better/is cooler 😄 I do like the quieter bike though with a clutch mech, uk roads are terrible. 10-42 46t has loads of range, not bothered by the gaps
I totally disagree for it to be cheaper, maybe for initial cost of parts thats true but in the long run smaller rear casettes are much cheaper. Having 2 chainrings in the front also makes it to last longer (the bigger the chainring it lasts longer). You probably wear chain faster too. I basically like idea of 1x but i always end at the 2x setup just because i have more options and dont have to choose between climbing gear vs speed. Also the point about 1x being more reliable is kinda skewed since i never saw broken front deraileur.
I have 1x with the same climbing and speed gear ratios as the best 2x Di2 setups... I'm starting to think the people complaining about 1x just have a skill issue
I was thinking the same. Then I remembered some of the challenges. Like weight. The specially dished wheel. Price! For the moment, I think I'd put my money and energy into a solid 1x system.
Went 1x for the cheaper power meters, but the 40 tooth default had me spinning out all the time. Just bumped it to 42 to see if it’s what I hope before jumping somewhere silly like 50 (where I always was in 3x)
My Gravel and MTB are 1x. The simplicity and ease of use is far superior to having front derailleur. However my road bike is Ultegra triple. Need the clinbing gears and close spacing when riding at 35kph+
So.. I'm thinking changing to 1x ring. I'm not a fast rider. I do a lot of climbing, here in my area we have mountains. I have done 2 Brevets (200km). Any Tips foe choosing the wright groupset? Front ring and a casstte?
I’d probably go the biggest casette you can do you have a good range. I like a 40t chainring personally. It’s hilly where I live so 40t on the front and 11-46 on the back or 11-50 for the mtb
Catch up 2 Chris! If folks are "in the market" and looking to go 1x ......5 very good reasons to change.....it arguably makes sense? Have a great weekend!
@ChrisHallRides I agree, Chris, but 2 bikes purchased recently (in 2022), so that's me done for the next 10 years!! BTW....Put a belated comment on your Austria 🇦🇹 trip 👍
OK - There's less stuff put on the bike without a front derailleur. Have manufacturers passed that decreased cost to the bike buyer? I think you already know the answer to that. I kind of think this 1X is intended for the same people that think driving a car with a standard transmission is too complicated.
I love the simplicity of 1x. But there are definitely compromises between climbing gears and speed on the flats. On balance, I think Shimano and/or Shimano-compatible kit offers the most flexibility for the money. If money is no object, I'd probably choose SRAM wireless and go mullet - gith a big mtb cassette and derailleur in bach, and road shift/brake levers up front. They're supposed to be mix-n-match now, right? Cheers
I do a lot, and I mean a lot, of ledge climbing and log hopping. My old (2014) Fuel ex has 3 chain rings, that big one is never used, and it’s my lowest strike point. I’m thinking it might be worth it??
If I could get a system that would give me 15 gear inches for climbing and not spin out when on the flats or going downhill I'd do 1x on my touring bike....as I dont race.
I dont think that you can save money on a 1x setup because it is expensive actually the chainline is extreme from both ends of the Cassette. The wear and tear is faster than the 2x or 3x setup and the massive jumps between gears.
People who say front mechs never fail... I was on a road ride in the UK and a small twig got flicked up by my front wheel and wedged itself into my front derailleur, snapping it off, 30km from home. Fortunately I managed to limp home on the small ring and a few gears. Simply would not have happened on a 1x system.
so, now i have 3x9. my lowest is .6 and the highest 4.8 ratio. So how big my 1 by cassette should be to have the same gear spectrum? (i use all my gears)
I don't know anyone on 1x who doesn't still get chain drops. The thing is that with my 2x I just shift the chain back on and I'm off. My 1x buddies have to stop and get their chain back on with their dirty gloves... gross.
I have a 1by road and love it ,46t chaing ring and a 10 33 cassette definitely don't feel under geared , only thing is if its 20% I may have to stand up and pedal , I definitely can live with that, it looks cool as too 👌
I agree with many of the comments, but number four is not really true as my analysis shows: ruclips.net/user/shorts2_bIqoJAoH8?si=QhX4qA04Nl4tOzsS or rather the weight saving is insignificant.
No! Just no ! The ONLY time a 1 x is great is serious mtb'ing Anything else 2 x, even 3 x is better, especially for the non competitive, non pro cyclists.
@@ChrisHallRides 3x is great if using a friction shifter. Index, not so much. Me being a 105kg 62 y/o Clydesdale, riding a steel 29er, my 42-26 double is nigh on.perfick. Peace.
Spot on. I reckon it's a bit like the difference between a manual (stick shift) and an automatic car. I used to enjoy driving stick. But it'd take a lot to get me to switch back after the simplicity of an auto box.
2x has a better chainline which saves quite a few watts, and however large of a range you get from a sram eagle cassette you can expand it by throwing on another front chainring. Or the classified hub lol, although that has its own inefficiencies.
Literally no reason to go 1X besides the following 2 reasons: 1. You live somewhere relatively flat and will rarely ever encounter any sort of climb. 2. You commute to work, etc, and don’t need a large option of gears. In my opinion, even 1x13 isn’t enough for gravel riding (unless it’s relatively flat) Also, using a cassette with big jumps in between each gear is just cringe.
No, you shouldn't. 1X transmissions are the incarnation of marketing w*nk. They offer zero benefit, they just are a novelty that has the added bonus for manufacturers that they can sell you less for more money. And the ironic part is, that we've been there. 1) 1x transmissions are a tad lighter, but the weight savings are absolutely inconsequential. It's like having your keys on you or not. Head over to bike calculator if you don't believe me. 2) 1x transmissions have abysmal efficiency, due to the extreme chain lines. 3) 1x transmissions offer insufficient gearing for all but the most specialized use cases. They can either go fast but not uphil, or the can go uphil but not fast. Or they can't do either. 4) 1x transmissions offer no way of "dialing it in", since you are stuck with the chain ring you have and that's it. 5) 1x transmissions force you to go through EVERY. FING. GEAR. EVERY. FING. TIME. It's absolutely annoying, it's slow, it put's a ton of wear on the parts. I have both, and it's just no comparison. This is not news. 1xs always have been limited by physics (derailleur size, chain line, number of available gears), and the 2x and 3x literally were invented to overcome those shortcomings. There is absolutely no reason to go back.
If you’re using gears correctly on a 2x set up you shouldn’t actually use all 22/22 gears so going 1x isn’t actually halving the number of gears you’ve got.
Dumb clickbait. There are reasons for 1x, 2x, 3x, and single speed, just as there are reasons for rim/disc brakes. Pick the right system and gearing for the rider, type of rides they are going on, and their budgets. No reason to get all religious about it. Easier to use - electronic shifting solves the shifting complexity issue. On mechanical if you choose your gearing appropriately, you can treat 2x as two 1x systems. Treat the front derailleur as a hi/lo clutch. This should reduce the need for shifting the front derailleur. I run 46/30 chainrings, but there are options to go smaller or larger if you have the need. Dropped chains- Plenty of 2x derailleurs have clutches. Front is a sort of a dual purpose chain guide. Cheaper - assumes things have the same cost and wear at same rate. The big cogs on cassettes are often alloy, and can wear much faster- to the point some people avoid it if they can. Cassettes, especially light weight dinner plates are very expensive. 2x can give you wider range without going into that low gear as often. Cheaper bikes often come with 2x groupsets, though with microshift advent x it’s not necessarily the case these days. Weight- can be a trade off by shifting more weight to the wheel (bigger cassette). Saving wheel rotational weight has a bigger impact on performance than saving weight on the rest of the bike. Newer tech- 2x is mature, thus can be found more cheaply and more broadly available than 1x. New tech isn’t always better until it’s been proven to be mature and well supported. Until then, the standards often haven’t stabilized, which can lead to difficulties sourcing parts if/when they are abandoned. Will campg continue to support Ekar long into the future or will it only be a brief foray like their mtb group sets in the 90’s? Sram 12 speed runs flat top chain- but now have a new flat top chain for Transmission mtb groupsets that seems incompatible with their old flat top chain - is that the new future for their chains or just a dead end? Gear range- if you’re carrying loads (i.e bikepacking), or if you’re less fit, you may need more range than what 1x can provide to get up hills and not run out on flats. I have 600+% gearing on my 2x. Efficiency- 1x aero is counteracted by drive train inefficiency from increased cross chaining and the 10t cog. I’ve heard experts say that for road rides they favor a 2x, with it maybe being a wash between the two at best. 1x is may be better for TTs.
I run 3 separate 1x systems on my mtb. It's a 3x7. It shifts flawlessly. It is MORE EXPENSIVE to run 1x than to run 3x7. I can replace my entire drivetrain for less than 100 dollars. I get around 100,000 miles per drivetrain. Oil your chain and ride easy.
just got back into cycling after a 30+ year break. I bought a 1x gravel bike and after a year of riding (relatively hilly terrain) I’m liking it and I prefer the clean look and simplicity. Mine is a 40 tooth chainring with an 11 speed 42 tooth rear.
Good stuff! Awesome to hear you’re back cycling!
Much lower and you'd be blowing up freehubs. Nobody talks about the physics behind that.
The old freewheel systems, you could get away with a 20 gear inch low.
Not anymore. The freehubs can't really handle the torque of a sub 1:1 gear ratio.
Hence, the 1x system.
I run 3x7. 28:28 low. 48:12 high. On a cassette hub.
No drivetrain problems because it's all within the realm of reasonable engineering.
100,000 miles on average before I have to change anything.
I cant wait til 14speed comes out. It'll be 1x supremacy!!!!
Let’s wait for 15
@@ChrisHallRides it'll be here soon enough!
I’m running 1x on my road bike (44t and 10-36), but I live in a place with only moderate hills and am a decent climber. I like it for me and where I ride, but definitely not for everyone in all situations. 2x still suits the majority of drop bar bikes.
My new BMC commuter has a 40T 10-51 cassette. Covers any gear I need so far! So simple. No trimming required.
Let's be honest: it just looks cool. I have both. It doesn't have any real advantages in almost all situations. Mostly disadvantages. Unless you think shifting is difficult.
it definitely does look cool. I know many people who prefer it in terms of its simplicity
It also allows you to run wider rear tire as no interference from front derailleur
Disagree... I think it looks pants. Much prefer the look of a double chainring and lets be honest for pretty much any road rider 2x drivetrains are just better. The gaps between gears on 1x are just too large.
Less parts (front derailleur) less headache
I think it looks worse actually, the only advantage is that you can reduce over 200 grams( 120 fderaileur, about 70 from 1 chainring, and also about 70 grams from the cable), and all of that is fixed weight that is only noticeable on climbs if you are really really really fit
Currently have a two-by and the electronic shifting and it is working well for me right now.
However, my biggest reason to probably go one-by is because of the gear ratios. The industry is so keen on keeping a 1:1 gear ratio or worse on 2by setups. A 36/28 ratio might be fine if you live in an area with low gradients and willing to get into low cadence on that hill that is only 4% steep but I love spinning and my hills can sometimes hit double digits at times. And the 3x setup I had before I transitioned to a 2x setups had an even more generous gear ratio range than the 1:1 that I now have.
I would love to have a higher climbing ratio than 1:1 which is very common in 1x gravel setups but difficult to find in 2x setups.
imho both the Canyon Roadlite (1X 46T chainring 10-51T 12 gears) and the Canyon Pathlite (1X 36T chainring 10-51T 12 gears) are the way to go for future bikes. I got a 2X road bike and a 3X MTB and 1X has always been my dream bike, however, I wanted a bike with the nimbleness of my road bike (48-34T 11-34T) and the huge gear ratio of my mountain bike (22-30-40T 11-34T) and after a lot of time when I discovered the Canyon Roadlite I wanted to cry out of emotion. Gorgeous, super light, faster than my road bike.., and much better at climbing. However I ended up getting the Canyon Pahtlite 6 'cos I live in a rural mountainous area and it's a better suited bike for that.
Get the electronic 2x12 and use Synchronized Shifting 👍🏽
100% agreed, brilliant feature!
Thanks Chris...I am OAF , and new to biking , and I bought 3 bikes without knowing enough . I have , a 2X road, a 2X MTB and a 1X gravel bike . Where I live , and my age , made me understand that Gravel is my best surface ! City drivers , and insane technical stuff convinced me to get off the road and on a rail trail in the woods ! 1X is the easiest for me , as I don't have to think about it anymore ?
Completely agree with you here! I know many people who agree
Have had both. 2x wins in virtually every scenario for me. The massive jumps in gears on a 1x don’t work for my natural cadence. Weight - yes, you have an extra chainring on a 2x, but some of this is offset by a lighter cassette. 1x dinner plates are heavy. More reliable? Not in my experience. The worst thing that can happen to a 2x is that you end up riding a 1x…. With di2 I’ve never dropped a front chain, nor got it stuck between the chainrings. Also, 2x grx rear mech has a clutch too.
Ultimately, I suppose 1x will work for some, but it’s not the way forward for any sort of riding that involves road or smooth gravel. The jumps between gears are just too big. Campag sort of solved it with Ekar as the jumps at the faster end of the cassette are much smaller for when you’re likely to be moving faster. But it’s a compromise.
Exactly. I have both. Got the 1x because it looks cool and I wanted something different. But it doesn't have any real advantages.
I have 1x12 Rival / eagle axs mix on my gravel bike the rpm difference between the gears is small enough, 1x11 isn't. I can always find my optimal cadence ( between 90 and 100). The only time I would want 2x maybe, is when riding very very flat terrain for a long time.
@@RepsacZ 1x has less things to adjust and go wrong. Which is a huge advantage in my book
I agree here
I think it certainly is an option for some. My partner much prefers it for its simplicity too. Gear jumps are getting better and better as new components arrive.
Until I recently purchased my new Marin Kentfield 2 hybrid/city bike, I was totally against 1x drivetrains. As far as I was concerned, the ultimate in drivetrains was the trusty 3x8; nothing was better, as it offered you various ranges of gears. However, when I test rode the Marin Kentfield 2, I was like, "Hey, this is a nice bike! This 1x setup might not be so bad." I liked the bike and got it a couple of weeks ago. As I've ridden it, I've grown to like its 1x10 drivetrain; it has a 38 tooth wide-narrow chainring up front with a 10 speed, 11-48 cassette on the rear wheel. The gears are well chosen and perfectly suited for the riding I do. The Marin's 1x10 setup has almost the same high and low gears that my Fuji MTB's 3x8 drivetrain does. The jumps in gears aren't that extreme, either; they feel just right. They're perfect for when I'm going uphill, because by the time I complete the downshift, the momentum and speed I've lost is perfectly suited for the gear I've changed into. What's the moral of the story here? Don't knock 1x drivetrains until you've TRIED them!
Absolutely!
1x all the way. Lighter, less moving parts, less tuning, less maintenance and service, lighter weight. Just less can go wrong.
As a PT mechanic, sure I can make more when customers bring in 2x and 3x but many riders cross chain all the time and don’t understand and expect zero noise when the chain is at its extreme angles.
Commenting to appease the algorithm gods. Gonna make a 1x my first bike. Thanks for rhe reassurance its a good decision.
Thanks for commenting! I appreciate it!
got a 2X road bike and a 3X MTB and now that I have gotten the 1X Canyon Pathlite 6 I don't want a 2X or 3X bike anymore. The only advantage of 2X and 3X is imho the emergency gear switching (well, chainring switching).
As I explained in another comment, my dream bike has always been a bike with the nimbleness of my road bike (48-34T 11-34T) and the huge gear ratio of my mountain bike (22-30-40T 11-34T), so I discovered the 1X (46T chainring 12 gears 10-51T cassette) Canyon Roadlite 6 out of sheer chance and I almost got all emotional 'cos it was like someone had listened to what I wanted and made a bike suited to my tastes. 46-10 (hardest gear of the Roadlite) is faster than 48-11 of my road bike and 46-51T (easiest gear) is much better than 34-34 to climb, specially in my very hilly and very rainy region.
I ended up getting the Canyon Pathlite 6 (same drivetrain specs than the Roadlite 6, but it the chainring has 36T instead of 46T) and not the Canyon Roadlite 6 'cos I live in a place with rough terrain and very rainy weather, but the idea of both bikes is perfect. Also I prefer flat bars to drop bars, so it's even better.
Coming into cycling later in life. Could never figure when to change chainrings and then figuring out how to change the rear to offset. So glad I’m on 1x now.
The only thing I miss from 2x is being able to quickly change big for short 2-3sec pitches
Mine is a 1x crux with 46t up front and 11:28 cassette. I did a 230 km ride with 3100m of climbing and the only thing that was difficult were a few 15% hills. I was amazed by how it worked. That said, this kind of setup is for road only
Yeah it’s very versatile. Like you mention the issues tend to come when it’s over 15%
@@ChrisHallRides Why? Not low enough gear ratio? I calculated the ratios on my Canyon Grail with 1x SRAM Force (12 speed cassette), and it's almost exactly the same range as the 2x GRX Di2, just slightly larger gaps between mid gears. I feel like everyone saying "1x is bad for climbing/speed" are simply using limited cassettes that don't reach those ratios.
Makes so much sense for commuters as well. And set-up recommendations?
I think the new 12 speed GRX options would be good. Can’t speak for sram as I’ve never used them
1x all the way for me. I remember the old times when MTBs had 3x systems and I hated them for so many reasons: never had much use for the big chainring, dropped chains, rubbing front mechs, having to think about how to avoid cross chaining, the sheer amount of gunk accumulating between the chainrings, etc. If I´d ever go back to 2x it would only be with electronic shifting which I also hate because of the exorbitant price tag and the need to keep batteries charged.
3x now for mtb seems so dated too right?
@@ChrisHallRides yes and I feel old!
@@ChrisHallRides 😊 So im getting back into cycling now im semi retired. I've a 30+yr old Marin 3x mtb which I changed the tyres for more road friendly to get me out & about again. Looking at replacing so 1x seems the way to go....
I just bought my first 1x drivetrain, 11 speed sensah 11-46 cassette and a 42 chainring. I havent installed it yet. It's going on a carbon road bike with flat bars for commuting to work. If I like it, I will be doing the same thing with some of my other bikes.
Oh awesome! Be interesting to hear what you think of the groupset
@@ChrisHallRides Well I tried it for a week and I have to say I love the simplicity of it, I haven't missed the other 11 gears I normally have at all. I am actually pondering going 1x on my road bike if my opinion hasn't changed in a month or so. I also like the fact I can zip through the gears without having to trim the front mech and theres no rub anywhere.
Awesome, cheers!
I still ride my old 3x10 MTB (11-32T rear and 24-32-42T front) and my biggest problem with 1X is lack of range and top end gears. Maybe riding only off road would be fine, but as soon I enter gravel or road its not enough gears. In the last 12 years i replaced largest chainring 4 times and middle one 2 times. Smallest chainring and 3 largest rear sprockets are rarely unused. Considering modern MTB frames can't fit larger than 36T chainring im not sure about the upgrading and my MTB is on it's last legs.
Also in the last 12 years i never dropped the chain, because of derailleur clutch. I had chain suck couple of times which bend front derailleur cage and i used pliers ti straighten it back up and after couple of times just replaced it and it costed less than 15 EUR.
Cassettes going down to a 10 tooth make a surprising amount of difference with needing a hard gear. You’ll also be able to find frames with bigger clearance
My wife gets dreadfully confused with the front/rear gears. The Mason Definition I purchased for her is 1x ..... She loves it.
It's much more simple for newer cyclists for sure and will continue to get better and better
I hate it that we do not have a say in it, because of the Pro's. I want a modern bike with 2x10...
real question : how much of this 1X trend/fashion is linked to the industry willing to make us change our groupesets ?
There could be an element of that for sure but equally there’s always room for innovation
I suppose that in the end the consumers will decide what is innovation to what is just "market".
However I wouldn't mind trying a 12x one
yes not just the groupset though! They'll mess with the chainline or remove the option to fit an fd all together...(more aero or something!)..so you'll be forced to buy new yet again!
I've been on 1x for years. Main reason.....mtb background, no other reason than it looks better/is cooler 😄
I do like the quieter bike though with a clutch mech, uk roads are terrible. 10-42 46t has loads of range, not bothered by the gaps
I totally disagree for it to be cheaper, maybe for initial cost of parts thats true but in the long run smaller rear casettes are much cheaper. Having 2 chainrings in the front also makes it to last longer (the bigger the chainring it lasts longer). You probably wear chain faster too. I basically like idea of 1x but i always end at the 2x setup just because i have more options and dont have to choose between climbing gear vs speed. Also the point about 1x being more reliable is kinda skewed since i never saw broken front deraileur.
100% true. In my opinion 1x can be considered in 'fun' bikes, not in proper race bikes.
@@wwedscsdsdsa5395 LOL OK sure bro
I have 1x with the same climbing and speed gear ratios as the best 2x Di2 setups... I'm starting to think the people complaining about 1x just have a skill issue
cheaper apart from you need a narrow wide chain ring and if your chain does drop its likely on the floor
On the new 12 speed Shimano you can't use narrow wide
would love to try one by with a classified rear hub
Same here! I did a video on that with my mate back in February who runs it
I was thinking the same.
Then I remembered some of the challenges. Like weight. The specially dished wheel. Price!
For the moment, I think I'd put my money and energy into a solid 1x system.
1x could be an option if you start at 10 teeth (instead of 11).. it basically turns you 40 teeth chainring into a 44-ish with 11t casette
Went 1x for the cheaper power meters, but the 40 tooth default had me spinning out all the time.
Just bumped it to 42 to see if it’s what I hope before jumping somewhere silly like 50 (where I always was in 3x)
Where I live where it’s incredibly hills a 40t on the steep stuff is tough!
Just as front mechs get pretty flawless......
My Gravel and MTB are 1x. The simplicity and ease of use is far superior to having front derailleur. However my road bike is Ultegra triple. Need the clinbing gears and close spacing when riding at 35kph+
My 1 by sytems all work well..its all I need in any of my bikes!
Exactly!
Simplicity over efficiency for me.. love 1x, especially Sram mullet.
That is a big reason for so many I think
So.. I'm thinking changing to 1x ring. I'm not a fast rider. I do a lot of climbing, here in my area we have mountains. I have done 2 Brevets (200km). Any Tips foe choosing the wright groupset? Front ring and a casstte?
I’d probably go the biggest casette you can do you have a good range. I like a 40t chainring personally. It’s hilly where I live so 40t on the front and 11-46 on the back or 11-50 for the mtb
Catch up 2 Chris! If folks are "in the market" and looking to go 1x ......5 very good reasons to change.....it arguably makes sense? Have a great weekend!
I think if I was looking for a new bike now I would seriously consider it
@ChrisHallRides I agree, Chris, but 2 bikes purchased recently (in 2022), so that's me done for the next 10 years!! BTW....Put a belated comment on your Austria 🇦🇹 trip 👍
OK - There's less stuff put on the bike without a front derailleur. Have manufacturers passed that decreased cost to the bike buyer? I think you already know the answer to that. I kind of think this 1X is intended for the same people that think driving a car with a standard transmission is too complicated.
I love the simplicity of 1x. But there are definitely compromises between climbing gears and speed on the flats.
On balance, I think Shimano and/or Shimano-compatible kit offers the most flexibility for the money.
If money is no object, I'd probably choose SRAM wireless and go mullet - gith a big mtb cassette and derailleur in bach, and road shift/brake levers up front. They're supposed to be mix-n-match now, right?
Cheers
With SRAM and Shimano to an extent you can mix and match, especially with electronic groupsets
@@ChrisHallRides True. 1X is certainly an interesting rabbit hole.
Subbed
Cheers
I’ve forced to do 1x setup due to FD gearing is broken. Let see how’s gonna pan out.
I do a lot, and I mean a lot, of ledge climbing and log hopping. My old (2014) Fuel ex has 3 chain rings, that big one is never used, and it’s my lowest strike point. I’m thinking it might be worth it??
I think you’ve answered your own question there
If I could get a system that would give me 15 gear inches for climbing and not spin out when on the flats or going downhill I'd do 1x on my touring bike....as I dont race.
I dont think that you can save money on a 1x setup because it is expensive actually the chainline is extreme from both ends of the Cassette. The wear and tear is faster than the 2x or 3x setup and the massive jumps between gears.
People who say front mechs never fail... I was on a road ride in the UK and a small twig got flicked up by my front wheel and wedged itself into my front derailleur, snapping it off, 30km from home. Fortunately I managed to limp home on the small ring and a few gears. Simply would not have happened on a 1x system.
Ouch! Not fun to have to deal with that!
How much top speed did you lose going from 2x to 1x?
Massively depends on the chainring and setup you’re using. There’s benefits to both
so, now i have 3x9. my lowest is .6 and the highest 4.8 ratio.
So how big my 1 by cassette should be to have the same gear spectrum? (i use all my gears)
You probably need a mullet setup so a 52t casette if you want all the gears
I don't know anyone on 1x who doesn't still get chain drops. The thing is that with my 2x I just shift the chain back on and I'm off. My 1x buddies have to stop and get their chain back on with their dirty gloves... gross.
Do they have the clutch turned on? That's usually the reason
Chris, I would watch you make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Any video from you is a good video
Ok that’s definitely now going to happen
I have a 1by road and love it ,46t chaing ring and a 10 33 cassette definitely don't feel under geared , only thing is if its 20% I may have to stand up and pedal , I definitely can live with that, it looks cool as too 👌
It definitely looks really cool right?
@@ChrisHallRides so much cleaner ,lighter more aero , who doesn't want to be more aero ay 👌🤙🤙🤙
I agree with many of the comments, but number four is not really true as my analysis shows: ruclips.net/user/shorts2_bIqoJAoH8?si=QhX4qA04Nl4tOzsS
or rather the weight saving is insignificant.
No!
Just no !
The ONLY time a 1 x is great is serious mtb'ing
Anything else 2 x, even 3 x is better, especially for the non competitive, non pro cyclists.
My partner who is a new cyclist hates 3x. We actually changed hers to 1x as its cleaner and easier for her
@@ChrisHallRides 3x is great if using a friction shifter. Index, not so much.
Me being a 105kg 62 y/o Clydesdale, riding a steel 29er, my 42-26 double is nigh on.perfick.
Peace.
Spot on.
I reckon it's a bit like the difference between a manual (stick shift) and an automatic car.
I used to enjoy driving stick. But it'd take a lot to get me to switch back after the simplicity of an auto box.
6) A simpler option for new cyclists
YES EXACTLY THIS!!!
I have only had problems with the rear derailleur.
Have you had it all checked over by a bike shop?
2x is more efficient. It is also better for non pro cyclists because there is a wider range especially in the easy gears.
Wider range?
SRAM Eagle: 😳😳😳😳😳😳😳😳😳😳😳
@@notpablo8369yes, wider range. Bigly.
Have a look at a 20 y/o triple with 600+% range.
That has a massive range!
I bet youre the guy using Shimano's Trekking groupset (3x10) with a Classified rear hub😏😏😏😏😏😏😏😏😏😏😏😏
2x has a better chainline which saves quite a few watts, and however large of a range you get from a sram eagle cassette you can expand it by throwing on another front chainring. Or the classified hub lol, although that has its own inefficiencies.
didn't we answer this years ago?...mtb yes, gravel yes/maybe, road no.
if you have your hands off one handlebar and come across a steep hill , your ability to anticipate is crap , thats your problem
Don’t take your hands off the bar
I did not watch this video, and you will never ever convince me that a 1X is good for anything....
Thanks for watching
I can’t stand not being able to ride my specific cadence. 2X all the way
Nope. Stick with 2x.
Like 20g lighter lol
Lol
Comment ;) But I still remain with 2x setup ;)
Literally no reason to go 1X besides the following 2 reasons:
1. You live somewhere relatively flat and will rarely ever encounter any sort of climb.
2. You commute to work, etc, and don’t need a large option of gears.
In my opinion, even 1x13 isn’t enough for gravel riding (unless it’s relatively flat)
Also, using a cassette with big jumps in between each gear is just cringe.
No, you shouldn't. 1X transmissions are the incarnation of marketing w*nk. They offer zero benefit, they just are a novelty that has the added bonus for manufacturers that they can sell you less for more money. And the ironic part is, that we've been there.
1) 1x transmissions are a tad lighter, but the weight savings are absolutely inconsequential. It's like having your keys on you or not. Head over to bike calculator if you don't believe me.
2) 1x transmissions have abysmal efficiency, due to the extreme chain lines.
3) 1x transmissions offer insufficient gearing for all but the most specialized use cases. They can either go fast but not uphil, or the can go uphil but not fast. Or they can't do either.
4) 1x transmissions offer no way of "dialing it in", since you are stuck with the chain ring you have and that's it.
5) 1x transmissions force you to go through EVERY. FING. GEAR. EVERY. FING. TIME. It's absolutely annoying, it's slow, it put's a ton of wear on the parts.
I have both, and it's just no comparison. This is not news. 1xs always have been limited by physics (derailleur size, chain line, number of available gears), and the 2x and 3x literally were invented to overcome those shortcomings. There is absolutely no reason to go back.
If you’re using gears correctly on a 2x set up you shouldn’t actually use all 22/22 gears so going 1x isn’t actually halving the number of gears you’ve got.
Dumb clickbait. There are reasons for 1x, 2x, 3x, and single speed, just as there are reasons for rim/disc brakes. Pick the right system and gearing for the rider, type of rides they are going on, and their budgets. No reason to get all religious about it.
Easier to use - electronic shifting solves the shifting complexity issue. On mechanical if you choose your gearing appropriately, you can treat 2x as two 1x systems. Treat the front derailleur as a hi/lo clutch. This should reduce the need for shifting the front derailleur. I run 46/30 chainrings, but there are options to go smaller or larger if you have the need.
Dropped chains- Plenty of 2x derailleurs have clutches. Front is a sort of a dual purpose chain guide.
Cheaper - assumes things have the same cost and wear at same rate. The big cogs on cassettes are often alloy, and can wear much faster- to the point some people avoid it if they can. Cassettes, especially light weight dinner plates are very expensive. 2x can give you wider range without going into that low gear as often. Cheaper bikes often come with 2x groupsets, though with microshift advent x it’s not necessarily the case these days.
Weight- can be a trade off by shifting more weight to the wheel (bigger cassette). Saving wheel rotational weight has a bigger impact on performance than saving weight on the rest of the bike.
Newer tech- 2x is mature, thus can be found more cheaply and more broadly available than 1x. New tech isn’t always better until it’s been proven to be mature and well supported. Until then, the standards often haven’t stabilized, which can lead to difficulties sourcing parts if/when they are abandoned. Will campg continue to support Ekar long into the future or will it only be a brief foray like their mtb group sets in the 90’s? Sram 12 speed runs flat top chain- but now have a new flat top chain for Transmission mtb groupsets that seems incompatible with their old flat top chain - is that the new future for their chains or just a dead end?
Gear range- if you’re carrying loads (i.e bikepacking), or if you’re less fit, you may need more range than what 1x can provide to get up hills and not run out on flats. I have 600+% gearing on my 2x.
Efficiency- 1x aero is counteracted by drive train inefficiency from increased cross chaining and the 10t cog. I’ve heard experts say that for road rides they favor a 2x, with it maybe being a wash between the two at best. 1x is may be better for TTs.
Thanks for watching 👍
I run 3 separate 1x systems on my mtb.
It's a 3x7.
It shifts flawlessly.
It is MORE EXPENSIVE to run 1x than to run 3x7.
I can replace my entire drivetrain for less than 100 dollars.
I get around 100,000 miles per drivetrain.
Oil your chain and ride easy.