Hey fam. Michael here. I hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful and entertaining. If you've ever considered installing solar on your home, my day job outside of RUclips is solar consulting. If you’d like to schedule a free - no obligation - solar consultation to see what the options are for you to switch to solar, save money, and become energy independent, please click this link and enter your zip code to see if your home qualifies: *****powur.com/understandingsolarp... Do you know anyone who is considering installing solar on their home? Refer them and earn up to $1000! Find out more by clicking this link: *****powur.com/understandingsolarp...
I’ve spent 3 days trying to find an answer related to wiring my new battery monitor. Your video was the only one that answered it. Thanks! You do a great job of explains things in a clear concise way.
My name is Shunt, Shunt counter... nice info, i am planing to build 100% solar powered house in Somalia where it's always sunny. and this was helpfull info even tho my plan is 7kw
Micheal, you are a Missouri guy just like me. I live in Kansas City. Was thrilled when I saw you wearing Truman stuff and Mizzou stuff. I've been RVing for 2 years but not full timing. Just love it. Keep up the great work. Really enjoy your You Tube site. :)
Are you a HAM radio operator? With your electrical knowledge, being a HAM would be as easy as a couple hours reading and taking the Technician test (one written test and NO Morse Code). Hobby goes great with people that like to travel and talk...... Your invited, be a HAM (NO8X). Great video series; enjoyed every one of them. I understood the electrical part but just getting into solar. TY Jay.
Bud ... im so glad i found your channel. Youve helped me a lot. Thanks a mill.... and please when you feel the urge to go full geek / technical... please feel free. Cheers from SA
Love these videos they are going to come to be very handy for us when we get our RV. I look forward to seeing you and Jenny and all your videos. I love what you offer here.
I would install a small inline fuse holder and a two amp fuse in the two wires from the shunt to the wall monitor. Just a safety feature in case the signal wires get shorted.
Some Observersations: you should upgrade to a lifepo4 which allows you to fully utilize your full battery and they also last way way longer. 2 you should use a DC distribution block rather then piling everything into your shunt.
Dude, stole my glory I was doing a shunt count to put in the comments and was going to say you should have put a shunt counter in the video and then....you did.
You mentioned the shunt transmits voltage to the battery monitor to display amps. Any guess why I have intermittent (false) negative amp readings when the solar charge controller is on? This can happen at night wen the SCC is sleeping too. Thnx! Rich
Great video but don't forget the losses on inverter a direct ohm's law calculation won't cut it. From what I have seen with pure sine wave inverters you need to factor a 10% to 20% loss. The positive feed wire is also not just powering the meter it gives it a voltage reading. This is essential for the unit to calculate remaining capacity. That is a very nicely put together system you have there :-)
interesting that you made a remote Negative post for the Shunt to more easily stack the Inverter & charge controller cable lugs onto. I'm going to be challenged a bit to have my Negative charge controller lead on the shunt because of the way I led the POS & NEG cables from the battery bank outside to the interior connections for the inverter. I'm sure I'm over thinking the situation.
Well, you had to put it into non-technical terms, but for those interested: a shunt for measuring current is a very low resistance resistor with a very accurate (low tolerance) resistance. The voltage drop over that resistor is directly proportional to the current flowing though it. This is used when the current is too high to be measured directly. So in effect, this is simply Ohm's law with a high current and a very low resistance. It makes measuring the current flowing so much easier though.
Mhhh, maybe you're right. A very old nerd. I just paid attention to my physics classes back in the 80ies (and no, there's no 20 in front of those). Good old days - no cellphones or internet. HAM radio was top of the line...
I love it when people nerd out 👍🏼😎 Great info and I appreciate you sharing the tech specs about the shunt. Everyone here will definitely appreciate it!
Uwe Schroder Thanks for translating it to something i can under stand , i loves me some accurate low resistance, i'm starting to like this guys videos , still on the fence though
Thanks, your explanation really helps. Now it makes sense. It just seamed like a direct conductor but knowing that the resistance is known it makes sense why and how an item like this works.
Hello , I have watch your channels and I must admit, they have been very useful to my understanding of a whole lot about Solar power, and thanks a lot for your efforts. I am a complete novice in this field but am determine to do it myself as a do yourself person, now I sometimes travel to Nigeria where there is a constant blackout , sometimes for a week or even 2 weeks in my area, we are lucky in our area as others experiences even months of blackouts. So this time I decided to invest in Solar power since I hated the noises from the neighbours generators. My flat is on the top floor and I can use the roof for my panels. I bought 4 panels of 300W each and an inverter that is pure sine 6000W. My intended uses are for runing the dish washer, airconditioning, electric cooker, computer, lights washing machine, a freezer and stereo system. Since I intended to use these things, here is my question, Which is the most suitable system, a 24V, 48V, 60V or more? Which of the wiring method is best suited to my system, Parallel or Series? Since we are very close to the Equator there is abudance of sunlight all year round. Please your expertised input will be greatly valuable and appreciated. Thanks
I just got a shunt and monitor , are you saying you connect your negative coming in from your solar to one side of the shunt ,then another cable to the negative on the other side of the shunt to the battery negative ,is that correct ?
Are those brand new 6V FLA golf cart style batteries? If so I'm very curious why one would choose those over a single 200AH Lithium Iron Phosphate which is smaller and maintenance free? Nice video though shunts are confusing.
Hahahaha Shunt is a fun word...ie "Shunt the heck up", "No Shunt?" "Shunt the front door" Hahahaha yes it really is a fun word :-) Hahahaha Thank you so much for the video and sharing :-) Looking forward to the next one. !!!!
Thank you. Can you recommend a brand for the 500 amp shunt or a company to buy it from? I see the 500 amp from $29 - $55 ?? Thank you for the clear and explicit info and pics.
Hi Michael. I have been enjoying your videos on solar power upgrades for an RV. My question is regarding the solar charge controller and your use of a shunt. Many of the MPPT controllers I have been looking at have a display and are capable of providing battery information. I think this would avoid the requirement of the shunt for the battery monitoring. The MPPT controller with the display could also be mounted in the cabin of the RV and not in the basement. Is there something wrong with my logic?
An MPPT and many other controllers will display voltage, which gives a general idea of state of charge, but can be off if there is a load or charge recently applied to the batteries. They also display the charger’s output in amps or watts, but this isn’t necessarily the charge the batteries are receiving. The shunt measures amps going in or going out of the battery, and you can program the meter with the amp hours of your battery bank and it’s efficiency, giving you a much more accurate state of charge. It is also interesting to see what is going into the battery as opposed to what the MPPT charger is putting out. You might have 200 watts coming in from the solar, but 165 watts charging into the battery, for example, if you are also using lights and have the TV on…
Hi do you have any issues regarding battery volt reading compare to battery percent? I have a 24volt system and at 23volts my percent is reading 70 percent I don't think that's is rite and I have made all the checks. My total battery amp hours is 428amp and I program that into the monitor The only time i get percent reading close to what should be rote is reducing the total battery amp hours to 210 amp hour
Great topic. The battery monitor is probably the very first thing to be added. That way you'll get a better idea how much solar you need based on your actual use. Did you install a catastrophic fuse and shutoff switches for your solar and inverter? I don't remember from your install video. BTW, I picked the TM-2025 since I wasn't planning on using Bogart Engineerings charge controller. It's a little bit cheaper.
Hey Richard! I did fuse everything and will be talking about the inverter on the next solar video. I will either be adding shutoff switches in the future or on my next install. Great questions 👍🏼
Amazing I m Puting 4 batteries in series 200ah12v4x lithium it would be connected to 12 or 10kw hybrid inverter I m going to put them in series I need something so I can connected to the batteries and the inverter the same time that was the inverter can communicate and I can read it online isit possible ?
Great. Can you come up with a wiring schematic on shunt connection /battery/ loads/fusing/panels etc. Do I fuse the shunt connection ? or is that built in ?
A shunt is generally wired with a negative cable to the battery bank on one side, and all connections to negative on the other. Two wires (best to use twisted pair, small like 20 gauge) connect to the shunt. A shunt is basically a precise resistor, IE a 500 amp/50 millivolt shunt has a voltage drop of 50 millivolt at a 500 amp load. From the voltage difference across the shunt carried by the small wires, the meter can calculate amps going in or out. The meter it’s self needs 12v pos and neg power, and that positive lead should be fused. Hope that makes sense.
OMG you are a chatty Cathy man, I have no idea what the hell you are talking about, but all good. I love watching you with you hands and you shunt count down, hehehe
Hey mate, amazing video! One quick question, why did you wire your inverter to the shunt? Shouldn't be enough with wiring the charge controller? Thank you very much in advance!
Every negative, goes to one end of the shunt, and the battery negative goes to the other end, so when you connect your sensing wires to the small screws on the shut, if you connect any loads on the battery side of the shunt, those loads will not be monitored, hope this helps
I heard another channel talk about you have to isolate your solar from your batteries when you use shore power or a gen. Is this correct? Or can I run solar and gen to add the amps together when charging my batteries and it would be quicker.
Great question. You can run something that's called a "hybrid" system where you can utilize both shore/generator and solar power at the same time. It is a slightly more complicated system though... Hope this helps!
Here's a question about the travel trailer , Can you install the Shunt from the Negative Side of the Converter instead of trying to get to the Battery Cable ?
@@gabrielmartinez3171 Hey Gabriel. The power from the controller is going INTO the battery right? Where the other wires are measuring power going OUT of the battery? I'm having trouble figuring out if all my negative post wires should be on the shunt. They are: inverter, chassis ground, solar charge controller. That's it. Just those three.
@@leelfm through the shunt so it can properly measure power in and power out to accurately measure the state of charge of the battery. Also make sure your shunt can handle the max current of the inverter you are using.
@@gabrielmartinez3171 Thank you. I got a 350A one and I only have a 1000w inverter currently. The other option was a 100A and I went higher to be safe. Should I got ahead and put the chassis ground cable through the shunt too? Just do it all through the shunt? Currently I have two batteries and one has the inverter from negative and the other has charge controller and chassis ground. I'd need to take them all off and combine them onto just one?
@@leelfm is this battery bank also charging from your vehicle? Is it still powering some of your 12v appliances or lights? If so to either question then yes should also go through the shunt. If your not charging from your vehicle and have a higher voltage battery bank ie. 24v or 48v and are using a step down converter to power your 12v system then ground the converter to the shunt.
So, The negative from the SCC, should go to the top of the shunt, if the bottom of the shunt is going directly to the negative post of the battery bank,,,?? Why not put the negative from SCC directly to the negative post on battery bank? Won't the battery monitor sense incoming and outgoing?? First time I've seen it done that way and I'm looking for a reason. Let me know please.
I am not sure you guys are right about doing the vent change in colder weather... It was like 25 and still having a hell of a time removing the sealant... Also you guys were right silicone sucks, and doesn't fix anything externally...gah do I have a lot of work.
New to the Solar world. Still trying to formulate how much solar will be needed and what type of camping we will be able to do with the system we choose. Any tips would be helpful. And yes i have been watching all your videos.
This is the? what is the cost difference between a 100 amp and a 500 amp i would think it's better to have it and not need it than to not have it and need it
It seems your math 2500/12 should really be 2500/120v... the wattage is the output wattage of the inverter. And AC has a much lower duty cycle than DC.... isn't this correct?
@@DuetJustusFam you are right, but your inverter is rated 2500W in the AC part of your system! You do not have 2500W in before hitting the inverter, hence your amperage is no way 2500/12
I was wondering whatnhappened tobyour channel when I discovered somehow you got unsubscribed. Must have miswired my charge contioller! or done series instead of parallel!
This video made me MORE CONFUSED than before! Lots of incoherent rambling! What was he trying to say? Why make it difficult to understand? This concept should be simple to explain, but he FAILED miserably! But thanks for trying......
Hey fam. Michael here. I hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful and entertaining. If you've ever considered installing solar on your home, my day job outside of RUclips is solar consulting. If you’d like to schedule a free - no obligation - solar consultation to see what the options are for you to switch to solar, save money, and become energy independent, please click this link and enter your zip code to see if your home qualifies:
*****powur.com/understandingsolarp...
Do you know anyone who is considering installing solar on their home? Refer them and earn up to $1000! Find out more by clicking this link:
*****powur.com/understandingsolarp...
I’ve spent 3 days trying to find an answer related to wiring my new battery monitor. Your video was the only one that answered it. Thanks! You do a great job of explains things in a clear concise way.
I did a lot of research on the TM2030 two years and it has not let us down since we bought it. Great explanation of another so easy subject.
#greatminds 😎 It’s a must have for us 👍🏼
Meant to say "not" so easy subject BTW.
Great video, I'm in UK and wiring up a canal boat, very easy to follow
My name is Shunt, Shunt counter... nice info, i am planing to build 100% solar powered house in Somalia where it's always sunny. and this was helpfull info even tho my plan is 7kw
Thanks. This helped much in my adventure of installing a shunt and battery monitor on my [Off-Grid Bunny Bungalow] featured on my channel.
Micheal, you are a Missouri guy just like me. I live in Kansas City. Was thrilled when I saw you wearing Truman stuff and Mizzou stuff. I've been RVing for 2 years but not full timing. Just love it. Keep up the great work. Really enjoy your You Tube site. :)
Hey Chuck. Thanks! Shout out to a fellow Missourian 👋🏼
Are you a HAM radio operator? With your electrical knowledge, being a HAM would be as easy as a couple hours reading and taking the Technician test (one written test and NO Morse Code). Hobby goes great with people that like to travel and talk...... Your invited, be a HAM (NO8X). Great video series; enjoyed every one of them. I understood the electrical part but just getting into solar. TY Jay.
Bud ... im so glad i found your channel. Youve helped me a lot. Thanks a mill.... and please when you feel the urge to go full geek / technical... please feel free. Cheers from SA
Great Explanation !! will continue to check out your videos
Awesome .learning lots
You have just taught me so much. Thank you.
Love these videos they are going to come to be very handy for us when we get our RV. I look forward to seeing you and Jenny and all your videos. I love what you offer here.
Hey thanks 🙏🏼 This is such a nice comment. We really appreciate the positive feedback 😊
I would install a small inline fuse holder and a two amp fuse in the two wires from the shunt to the wall monitor. Just a safety feature in case the signal wires get shorted.
Some Observersations: you should upgrade to a lifepo4 which allows you to fully utilize your full battery and they also last way way longer. 2 you should use a DC distribution block rather then piling everything into your shunt.
Awesome Video
Dude, stole my glory I was doing a shunt count to put in the comments and was going to say you should have put a shunt counter in the video and then....you did.
Lol! 😂
Great video.
Good job brother, I have the same battery monitor and shunt in my RV.
#greatminds 🙂
Thanks for the 'Welcome'.
Great video dude !
You mentioned the shunt transmits voltage to the battery monitor to display amps. Any guess why I have intermittent (false) negative amp readings when the solar charge controller is on? This can happen at night wen the SCC is sleeping too. Thnx! Rich
great video, clear explanations, thanks !
Great video but don't forget the losses on inverter a direct ohm's law calculation won't cut it. From what I have seen with pure sine wave inverters you need to factor a 10% to 20% loss. The positive feed wire is also not just powering the meter it gives it a voltage reading. This is essential for the unit to calculate remaining capacity. That is a very nicely put together system you have there :-)
interesting that you made a remote Negative post for the Shunt to more easily stack the Inverter & charge controller cable lugs onto. I'm going to be challenged a bit to have my Negative charge controller lead on the shunt because of the way I led the POS & NEG cables from the battery bank outside to the interior connections for the inverter. I'm sure I'm over thinking the situation.
nice, thanks for the info.
Wow, y'all do so much DIY with all you know now you could redo RV's for a living. Great video! Thanks😊❤
I think I will look you up when it comes to adding the monitor.
what shoulD be shunt size for equipments draws 10A DC, batery bank is 24v?
thank for your video
Well, you had to put it into non-technical terms, but for those interested: a shunt for measuring current is a very low resistance resistor with a very accurate (low tolerance) resistance. The voltage drop over that resistor is directly proportional to the current flowing though it. This is used when the current is too high to be measured directly. So in effect, this is simply Ohm's law with a high current and a very low resistance. It makes measuring the current flowing so much easier though.
Mhhh, maybe you're right. A very old nerd. I just paid attention to my physics classes back in the 80ies (and no, there's no 20 in front of those). Good old days - no cellphones or internet. HAM radio was top of the line...
Lol 😂
I love it when people nerd out 👍🏼😎 Great info and I appreciate you sharing the tech specs about the shunt. Everyone here will definitely appreciate it!
Uwe Schroder Thanks for translating it to something i can under stand , i loves me some accurate low resistance, i'm starting to like this guys videos , still on the fence though
Thanks, your explanation really helps. Now it makes sense. It just seamed like a direct conductor but knowing that the resistance is known it makes sense why and how an item like this works.
Thanks fantastic explanation!
Convincing my wife on a solar system for our semi-small house. Thanks!
👍👌🇨🇦❤, I use the same battery monitor, gr8 video
Hello , I have watch your channels and I must admit, they have been very useful to my understanding of a whole lot about Solar power, and thanks a lot for your efforts. I am a complete novice in this field but am determine to do it myself as a do yourself person, now I sometimes travel to Nigeria where there is a constant blackout , sometimes for a week or even 2 weeks in my area, we are lucky in our area as others experiences even months of blackouts. So this time I decided to invest in Solar power since I hated the noises from the neighbours generators. My flat is on the top floor and I can use the roof for my panels. I bought 4 panels of 300W each and an inverter that is pure sine 6000W. My intended uses are for runing the dish washer, airconditioning, electric cooker, computer, lights washing machine, a freezer and stereo system. Since I intended to use these things, here is my question, Which is the most suitable system, a 24V, 48V, 60V or more? Which of the wiring method is best suited to my system, Parallel or Series? Since we are very close to the Equator there is abudance of sunlight all year round. Please your expertised input will be greatly valuable and appreciated. Thanks
Take a drink/shot every time he say's the word "shunt" and you'll be drunk half way through the video. (Comment posted before the "shunt" calculator).
I just got a shunt and monitor , are you saying you connect your negative coming in from your solar to one side of the shunt ,then another cable to the negative on the other side of the shunt to the battery negative ,is that correct ?
Are those brand new 6V FLA golf cart style batteries? If so I'm very curious why one would choose those over a single 200AH Lithium Iron Phosphate which is smaller and maintenance free? Nice video though shunts are confusing.
love the videos , very informative :)
It’s me again lol👍🙏🏼❤️
What gauge are your ground wires? They look smallish, especially the main battery ground.
It's ok to oversize the shunt?
Hahahaha Shunt is a fun word...ie "Shunt the heck up", "No Shunt?" "Shunt the front door" Hahahaha yes it really is a fun word :-) Hahahaha Thank you so much for the video and sharing :-) Looking forward to the next one. !!!!
Holy shunt! I love this comment 😂... such a fun word!
Hahahahaha
Thank you. Can you recommend a brand for the 500 amp shunt or a company to buy it from? I see the 500 amp from $29 - $55 ?? Thank you for the clear and explicit info and pics.
Hi Michael. I have been enjoying your videos on solar power upgrades for an RV. My question is regarding the solar charge controller and your use of a shunt. Many of the MPPT controllers I have been looking at have a display and are capable of providing battery information. I think this would avoid the requirement of the shunt for the battery monitoring. The MPPT controller with the display could also be mounted in the cabin of the RV and not in the basement. Is there something wrong with my logic?
An MPPT and many other controllers will display voltage, which gives a general idea of state of charge, but can be off if there is a load or charge recently applied to the batteries. They also display the charger’s output in amps or watts, but this isn’t necessarily the charge the batteries are receiving.
The shunt measures amps going in or going out of the battery, and you can program the meter with the amp hours of your battery bank and it’s efficiency, giving you a much more accurate state of charge.
It is also interesting to see what is going into the battery as opposed to what the MPPT charger is putting out. You might have 200 watts coming in from the solar, but 165 watts charging into the battery, for example, if you are also using lights and have the TV on…
Hi do you have any issues regarding battery volt reading compare to battery percent? I have a 24volt system and at 23volts my percent is reading 70 percent I don't think that's is rite and I have made all the checks. My total battery amp hours is 428amp and I program that into the monitor
The only time i get percent reading close to what should be rote is reducing the total battery amp hours to 210 amp hour
Great topic. The battery monitor is probably the very first thing to be added. That way you'll get a better idea how much solar you need based on your actual use. Did you install a catastrophic fuse and shutoff switches for your solar and inverter? I don't remember from your install video. BTW, I picked the TM-2025 since I wasn't planning on using Bogart Engineerings charge controller. It's a little bit cheaper.
Hey Richard! I did fuse everything and will be talking about the inverter on the next solar video. I will either be adding shutoff switches in the future or on my next install. Great questions 👍🏼
Amazing I m Puting 4 batteries in series 200ah12v4x lithium it would be connected to 12 or 10kw hybrid inverter I m going to put them in series I need something so I can connected to the batteries and the inverter the same time that was the inverter can communicate and I can read it online isit possible ?
Great. Can you come up with a wiring schematic on shunt connection /battery/ loads/fusing/panels etc. Do I fuse the shunt connection ? or is that built in ?
A shunt is generally wired with a negative cable to the battery bank on one side, and all connections to negative on the other. Two wires (best to use twisted pair, small like 20 gauge) connect to the shunt. A shunt is basically a precise resistor, IE a 500 amp/50 millivolt shunt has a voltage drop of 50 millivolt at a 500 amp load. From the voltage difference across the shunt carried by the small wires, the meter can calculate amps going in or out. The meter it’s self needs 12v pos and neg power, and that positive lead should be fused. Hope that makes sense.
How does geometric compare to the mt50
You are Kvothe's doppleganger from the Name of the Wind. If you haven't read it that's a compliment.
I am subscribed but do not see the bell how do I find it thanks
OMG you are a chatty Cathy man, I have no idea what the hell you are talking about, but all good. I love watching you with you hands and you shunt count down, hehehe
Lol
👋🏼 😎
it sure would be nice if you drew out a wire diagram and explained how it was wired from there
did u take out ur kitchen table
Hey mate, amazing video! One quick question, why did you wire your inverter to the shunt? Shouldn't be enough with wiring the charge controller? Thank you very much in advance!
Every negative, goes to one end of the shunt, and the battery negative goes to the other end, so when you connect your sensing wires to the small screws on the shut, if you connect any loads on the battery side of the shunt, those loads will not be monitored, hope this helps
I heard another channel talk about you have to isolate your solar from your batteries when you use shore power or a gen. Is this correct? Or can I run solar and gen to add the amps together when charging my batteries and it would be quicker.
Great question. You can run something that's called a "hybrid" system where you can utilize both shore/generator and solar power at the same time. It is a slightly more complicated system though... Hope this helps!
Can you please post a diagram of this?
Here's a question about the travel trailer , Can you install the Shunt from the Negative Side of the Converter instead of trying to get to the Battery Cable ?
No because it needs to read the power from the controller as well through the shunt.
@@gabrielmartinez3171 Hey Gabriel. The power from the controller is going INTO the battery right? Where the other wires are measuring power going OUT of the battery? I'm having trouble figuring out if all my negative post wires should be on the shunt. They are: inverter, chassis ground, solar charge controller. That's it. Just those three.
@@leelfm through the shunt so it can properly measure power in and power out to accurately measure the state of charge of the battery. Also make sure your shunt can handle the max current of the inverter you are using.
@@gabrielmartinez3171 Thank you. I got a 350A one and I only have a 1000w inverter currently. The other option was a 100A and I went higher to be safe. Should I got ahead and put the chassis ground cable through the shunt too? Just do it all through the shunt? Currently I have two batteries and one has the inverter from negative and the other has charge controller and chassis ground. I'd need to take them all off and combine them onto just one?
@@leelfm is this battery bank also charging from your vehicle? Is it still powering some of your 12v appliances or lights? If so to either question then yes should also go through the shunt. If your not charging from your vehicle and have a higher voltage battery bank ie. 24v or 48v and are using a step down converter to power your 12v system then ground the converter to the shunt.
So, The negative from the SCC, should go to the top of the shunt, if the bottom of the shunt is going directly to the negative post of the battery bank,,,??
Why not put the negative from SCC directly to the negative post on battery bank? Won't the battery monitor sense incoming and outgoing??
First time I've seen it done that way and I'm looking for a reason.
Let me know please.
I have same question did you ever figure this out?
I am not sure you guys are right about doing the vent change in colder weather... It was like 25 and still having a hell of a time removing the sealant... Also you guys were right silicone sucks, and doesn't fix anything externally...gah do I have a lot of work.
Also ohms power law
Nice video but you forgot to tell us what the green wire on the shunt is for but I guess everyone knows it's a ground.
Anyone knows long lasting reliable wind turbine?
Would this monitor work for Lithium?
Yes
How I can use my solar panel to use his energy to run my house and at th same time charge my bat bank for the night use
New to the Solar world. Still trying to formulate how much solar will be needed and what type of camping we will be able to do with the system we choose. Any tips would be helpful. And yes i have been watching all your videos.
A shunt is old technology - a hall effect sensor will measure the current just as easily
What is DIY means?
This is the? what is the cost difference between a 100 amp and a 500 amp i would think it's better to have it and not need it than to not have it and need it
What he said 👆🏼 😎
Size matters!
It seems your math 2500/12 should really be 2500/120v... the wattage is the output wattage of the inverter. And AC has a much lower duty cycle than DC.... isn't this correct?
Only after the energy is converted to 120V. The energy is always lower voltage until it hits the inverter. Hope this helps!
@@DuetJustusFam you are right, but your inverter is rated 2500W in the AC part of your system! You do not have 2500W in before hitting the inverter, hence your amperage is no way 2500/12
What did you call me? 😆
😁
Im realated to the lady\
my mom is her cousin
Shunt up and vlog
#onit
to shunt or not to shunt.. that is the shunt
can you show by diagram. I think that's batter to explain LOL
no hold-downs on the batteries, going down the road the vibration and bouncing of the batterers can shorten the life span.
#hotginger
I was wondering whatnhappened tobyour channel when I discovered somehow you got unsubscribed. Must have miswired my charge contioller! or done series instead of parallel!
excuse poor spelling. big fingers, little keyboard.
That's so weird! We've heard about RUclips doing this. So glad you are back 😊
Haha 😂 Totally understand 👍🏼
Shunt count? Lol
Meh
This video made me MORE CONFUSED than before! Lots of incoherent rambling! What was he trying to say? Why make it difficult to understand? This concept should be simple to explain, but he FAILED miserably! But thanks for trying......