You are one of the very few RUclipsrs that understands audience, having an organized list of talking points or a script, and delivering it clearly and cleanly with heart but not a bunch of vocal noodling. I am an English teacher and admire your build and your speaking/presenting skills. Thank you fine sir, and may God bless your efforts and your audience.
Yes indeed, I too was struck by notable absence of vocal noodling throughout this very educational video presentation. Note to self : Vocal noodling is rarely appreciated, unless it is at least mildly amusing. That reminds me of the one about a man who walked into a bar with an agitated porcupine under each arm....... On second thoughts, maybe another time....
I didn't pay due respect to my English teachers in school, and found that I had to get it together or people in the working world wouldn't respect me and my opportunities would be limited. Fortunately, I'm a voracious reader, and that saved me - learning to articulate from literature. I expect many, many of your students are better off in the world because of your efforts, and you have my deepest respect. The compliment is most appreciated.
I am a union electrician and have been in the trade for 20+ years. This is a Very well put together video is accurate and to the point . Probably the best video I've ever seen to explain and give correct information about ANY subject matter so that all can understand. 👏👏 Thank you for the time and energy you spent on this alot of people will benifit from it.
Can I use five 80w solar panels in place of four 100w solar panels. I can't get the 100w because of coronavirus. Will everything else in the video remain the same?
Thank you! I built a solar generator based on your video two years ago. I followed your design using a few different components / brands that were more readily available where I live. But the outcome is very similar to yours. My system is powered by two 100W 12V solar panels. I use mine in a hangar at a local airfield where there is no power. It has completely replaced the gas generator I used previously. The system powers my table saw, mitre saw, drill press, belt/disc sander, microwave, lights, radio, 110V hand tools and battery chargers for cordless power tools, as well as recharges my cell phones and batteries for an RC rock crawler. Fantastic! Thanks again. The best and most useful DIY project I have ever built.
Seriously, amazing! I'll be sharing this video with relief workers, missionaries, Preppers, and everyone else I can think of. Few things I would add: - Small charging basket for devices - Lightweight, coroplast, waterproof cover that hinges near the top of the truck - Small shelf above the batteries to carry all 4 solar panels for use in mobile applications - Cord spooling hooks on both sides of the truck - Magnet mounted rotatable floodlight - Huge decal saying, "Thank you Desert Prep for the most useful video on the internet!"
Just completed the break-in period and so far the unit is operating perfectly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y . I was amazed by just how quiet this little guy is. I kept having to walk down the driveway to the generator to make sure it was still running. In fact, the most annoying noise coming from the set-up is a high-pitched chirping coming from the pressure regulator on the propane line. I suppose it's possible my other propane-powered generator's pressure regulator is making the same noise, but the generator itself is so loud I've never noticed it. Build quality so far is excellent. My only nit is the service panel is a little tricky to remove. I feel like I might break off one of the plastic tabs when bending it back. I probably just need to work out the technique, so will not hold it against Champion.Next week I intend to fully load the unit to charge a large battery pack and will update this review if there's any problem (3000W continuous load vs a rated 3100W capacity while using propane). Absent any trouble there, I'm 100% pleased with this purchase.
The recent PG&E black out just made me realize how important this is. My needs, basically a fridge and few phones, seem pretty similar to yours. Thanks for sharing your build
Mirroring the thoughts of others here. This is the absolute best tutorial I've seen on this subject (and really on any subject). So comprehensive, yet doesn't waste time. The pictures really give a great understanding of exactly what to do and your spreadsheet calculator and wiring diagram are THE BEST!!! I have three thoughts/suggestions to make this the most comprehensive build possible. 1) adding circuit breakers or fuses between the panels and the charge controller and a fuse with battery cutoff switch between the battery and the inverter (this actually makes connecting the wires less dangerous as well as providing an easy way to disconnect the batteries from load). Not that you really need the fuses because your build is so tightly connected but more for educational purposes. Other people likely won't make such a beautiful and tightly sealed up build. 2) a temperature sensor or two. One to tell the charge controller to stop charging if it's too hot/cold and one that protects the battery from discharge in high/low temp situations. 3) undervoltage protection. When the voltage drops to a point where you might damage the batteries it's nice to have an automatic cutoff. Again, your system is incredibly well built and you know exactly what you're doing so you don't need these things, but might be fun for educational purposes. P.S. I LOVE the way you figured out the right angle for the sun. Very MacGyver.
Many thanks for both the positive feedback and the well-reasoned suggestions. Your instincts are spot on regarding the shut off -- with only a few inches of distance, the switch adds more complexity and wiring while protecting just inches of potential short-circuit. The charge controller does have a temperature sensor that I didn't detail in the video. I really agree in the low-voltage protection, but I've been unable to find a reasonable option. At hundreds of dollars, the protection is more expensive than the components it protects. Perhaps someone will develop one that closely matches a project like this at a reasonable price.
I was in electronics for almost 15 years after I got my degree and have not seen this level of build expertise since then. This was beautifully laid out. Technically thorough and well presented and easy to follow. Thank you so much.
Love this! I keep trying to download the spec and design sheets but it won’t go through to your desertprep.info site... any other place to get this info? Thanks so much for your great work!!
Need to start looking into gasifiers which you can run your generator off of the fuel it makes and it’s a free fuel because we have trees and bushes and dead branches everywhere. Which would make a generator a good idea also. Only the gasifier would do that
I actually couldn’t agree more... the narration and overall flow was done better than most professional productions.... this is the guy everyone wishes lived next door.
@@charlesrossman5426 - hey man... Could you elaborate a bit more on this gasifier doohickey? I’m working on a build just like this one, if not identical, and have never heard of what you mentioned.. thanks!
Wow... So often these videos leave one confused... If RUclips gave out awards, this one, my man, would take them all. The type of content that I would literally pay for. So concise. Thank you very much. I'll start my build this weekend.
I watched all your videos on this build. I have to say, you're a freaking genius man. You thought of factors which very few would have considered until the problem arose. I am extremely impressed. Excellent video, build, narration, note keeping, everything! Just amazing!!
Hello Desert Prep. I was cruising through youtube videos when I came across this video. My first comment is great minds think alike. Back in 2016 I built a nearly identical system to yours including your choices for charge controller, solar panels, inverter, digital readouts and how to wire it. My goal was to have power for simple electronics when I boondock with my Aliner or for emergency use. The difference is I used two 100W panels instead of four, one 100Ah deep cycle battery instead of two, and my whole system including a 2000W pure sine wave inverter is attached/contained in a type 27 battery enclosure. So I can store it on a shelf in a cabinet. Though I do use a small four wheel dolly to roll it around since it weighs 80 pounds. My system cost $980 to build, but that's 2016 dollars. Thanks for the excellent video. It brought back memories.
This is fantastic! Thank you! My suggestion: Start an operation where you combine all the items in kit form and sell it to prospective buyers. Use crowdfunding to finance the operation. Encourage buyers to record their projects. This reminds me of how Dell started. This video is a powerful pitch for crowdfunding.
Very impressive Solar Generator and explanation. However, there is one major oversight from what I see in your design. You need to add a heavy duty SHUT OFF switch (marine switch) on the positive side of your batteries to shut down the whole generator in the event of an unexpected short. The smell of burning insulation and the sight of smoke without a way to quickly shut the generator down would be devastating. Also, as mentioned in another comment your cables supplying DC to your inverter need to be a larger gauge to handle higher wattage devices. Looks like your 12 volt accessory jack and your Anderson Power Pole jacks need a buck converter to regulate the output voltage to prevent frying Ham Radios and other 12 volt devices with tight voltage tolerances. From my experience, solar controllers typically output up to 15 volts during battery equalization charging cycles. I would also suggest you consider someway to waterproof your design. In emergency situations a generator like this could easily end up outside where an unexpected rain shower could ruin your day and your equipment. I can see how your design could be very handy around the house, but if you had to transport it in a car to help out a family member or friend, that could be challenging. Perhaps a two part approach would be easier to relocate. The batteries might be a rolling box, and the electronics might be some type of wagon configuration. Just a suggestion. I admire your passion for portable solar power. Your willingness to design and redesign multiple improved versions is great to see. For you to freely share your progress and invite feedback from your peers is absolutely outstanding! Keep up the Great work you’re doing!
Good thoughts Joe, however 12 VDC HAM and audio equipment is generally designed for up to a 15 V maximum input to tolerate the output from automotive charging systems, who's voltage regulators are supposed to limit to around 14.9 V during engine running conditions. If anything needs tighter control than that, a separate regulator would be needed.
Been thinking about mounting my portable solar system on a hand truck... but I really enjoy being able to grab it and go in my car. Made two 100 watt panels into a solar suitcase with handles using all stainless hardware... it cranks out 12amps with my mppt charge controller hooked to a 125 amp hour AGM... have room to expand with a 40amp mppt controller... just add two more panels and an extra battery! Also have a 1200 watt pure sine wave inverter and 4 usb outlets and two cigarette ports... absolutely love it! Great video thanks!
The only thing I would do differently would be to get Group 27 Size Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries, and an MPPT Controller configured FOR those batteries. Here is my unsecured email address: ebxrocks@yahoo.com. Please contact me there and I'll respond from my SECURED address.
I noticed an error in the spreadsheet. Cell G5 is the surge for the first item, and there is no formula, it is just set to 900. So even if you 0 out the quantity for that line it is still totaled up and affects the size of the inverter. In my example it was saying i needed a 2000w inverter, when I really needed 1000w, big price difference. My solution is it to add a peak watts column and peak load column. So you enter the peak watts for each item (just as you do in the "watts") and it totals up in the peak load column (just as your current "Load" column does). Then when selecting an inverter make sure that it meets both criteria, constant load and peak load. These are absolutely phenomenal videos and tools you have put together and shared with everyone. Thank you very much for putting in the work to help out so many other people!
You’re most welcome. Working the generator to its current state has been very rewarding, and the upgrades will leave us in a much better place should we face a grid-down situation. I’m now toying with the idea of upgrading the solar capabilities of our RV...
I can't wait to see that, I was thinking to add solar on our RV and will definitely look to your solution before to do anything. Thank you for all the work you put in.
@@DesertPrep I got here while looking for ideas for such a system to have in my RV, but able to take it out when in a tent or at home. Have it mobile and with a higher WAF.
I was considering solar for my RV but the cost of a system that can run an AC and a fridge is out of my price range! I came across your video which looks like a great and cost-effective setup!
I will like to personally thank you taking the time to make this this video available. I built the exact same system this weekend and it turned out perfect. Again thanks!
your attention to detail, clear and concise instruction is exceptional. I had been thinking of doing exactly the same project, for several months, but now I have an example beyond reproach. Thank you so very much.
Love the video, very professional and well made! One note to those who are interested in doing a project like this, and maybe something you did or did not take into account with this build is that solar panels in series are derated by the production of any panel in the series and so any panel in a series string should ONLY be wired with panels of the same type and same orientation or else the lowest voltage or current output will constrict the flow of electrons to its level. An MPPT charge controller will always optimize the output to the battery for charging it so as long as you are within the parameters of its input and output you are golden. In this case, the panels that are oriented towards the sun should be on their own string and the panels horizontally mounted should as well, then the two strings can be combined before they reach the charge controller for their most efficient output. for a clean installation, all of this can be accomplished at the array with two MC4 Y connectors to combine the two strings. As long as the combine amps from each string do not exceed the amps rating of the PV wires you do not need overcurrent protection or a combiner box. Also because solar panel voltage fluctuates very little while the amps/current fluctuates based on the level of solar irradiance you get a net sum effect with this wiring V.S. a continuous series string. Wiring dissimilar modules in this configuration would not necessarily produce the same desired effect as the voltage would be drawn down by the lower voltage string. If anyone would like more info or consulting my website is www.zensolar.info. Cheers!
One of the best builds I’ve seen on RUclips. I’d add a low voltage alarm. Mine has saved my build several times and has paid for itself many times over in overdischarge and potentially permanent battery damage not to mention the safety concern.
Excellent comment. The particular inverter I used has a low voltage alarm, alerting you to a low-voltage over-discharge that will certainly harm the batteries. This is vital because the batteries represent 1/3 of the investment in the project, and replacing them would be painful.
I'm running the same 40 amp charge controller but with a 24 volt battery setup. The charge controller comes with a default low voltage cutoff preprogrammed into it and can be adjusted with MT-50 meter P.S. Really excellent work
I think using decent quality ( lead acid ) regular 12v Deep cycles would be acceptable. I dont think agms are worth the additional cost vs amount of time u need to use the rig. Id rather spend the money on extra regular batterys than agms personally.
Recently I purchased a small trailerable houseboat for the ultimate off grid floating cabin. I’ve watched over 100 hundred yt videos. Your video has been one of the best. This will provide my power and I will have propane for backup. Thanks for the links provided.
Without doubt the absolute best solar power pack I've ever seen, wonderfully described with no unneeded information. Very inspiring! I plan on doing a scaled down version of this using your system as a template. Thank You!
Here's a Post-SHTF Event system I designed and built: I started with a Pelican IM-2435 Storm Case. In it, I placed TWO Bioenno 12 Volt, 40 Amp LiFePO4 Batteries connected in Parallel for 960 Watt Hours of storage. I added a 500 Watt DC to AC PURE Sine Inverter. Then I added an Allpowers 100 Watt Foldup Solar Panel. I then gave it a Goal Zero Mini USB Lantern for remote lighting. NOW comes the Instrument Panel. It fits neatly in the top of the Main case, covering the goodies inside. ON this Board are a 20 AMP Bioenno PWM Charge Controller, EIGHT THREE AMP USB OUTPUTS, 3 12 VDC Sockets, and an Anderson Dual Powerpole Plug. In the Lid, there is an Insert that contains three Cig Buddy Powerpole Plugs, Two 5-foot Power Pole Jumper Cords, three short Standard to Mini USB reducers, and a rechargeable Flashlight. Using the 500 Watt Inverter, and the 100 Watt Solar Panel, I can literally keep 4-5 Cordless Tool Batteries at the ready all day long, and NOT Drain the Main Battery! In the Evening, it CAN run my home entertainment system (I have another Battery for that) but IF I instead put a 1000 Watt PURE Sine inverter to it, this unit WILL run a Leaf blower! I DID that today at a job site! I DESIGNED AND BUILT THIS UNIT MYSELF. It is on Rollers and fits in the cab of my Pickup It has roughly the same capabilities as your system, however it takes up a MUCH smaller footprint, is COMPLETELY weatherproof when closed up, and weighs less than 40 Pounds! I store it in the extra cab portion of my pickup, or it can safely ride in the trunk of a car. It is ready ANY time, ANY where. What's really neat, is when the batteries finally do give out, it is all on quick-disconnects, and both Batteries can be changed out in under 90 Seconds! It DID cost me some Bucks to build it, however!
Super nice set up mechanic of 25 years here and it meets your needs which is the most important no problem is the cost but over time I could see how it will pay off good job my friend
This video is without a doubt the best DIY project I have ever seen. I am an illiterate rock when it comes to electrical work. But this video is so well made and understandable that I actually comprehended the subject material. You sir are and excellent teacher.
Incredible... only thing I can think to improve would be to enclose the whole thing to protect for weather. Amazing video and very useful. One of the best videos I have seen on RUclips.
I built one. Thank you. I used one 12v marine battery and a 12v 1800 cca Maxwell Super Capacitor. The super capacitor allows me to run circular saw almost all day. The super capacitor charges fully in 3 minutes.
Awesome setup! I have an industrial rubbermaid push cart I use for my setup. the bottom shelf has four 100Ah deep cycle batteries and the top shelf has my inverter and other electronics. I'm using four 230 watt panels with the same Epever charge controller (80Amp version). I have to say it works very well but make sure you ground the system!
I have no idea what I’d do differently except I’m going to have to up my studying of not only the diagrams that you have left us and watch your video over and over until I can understand really well what’s really going on, but I’m going to have to start studying up on basic electrical engineering! I have to say that my dad was an engineer and I can tell by your very cautious nature and your attention to detail that you and he would have gotten along great! And between the two of you I bet I could even ask enough questions after doing my homework to make it sound like I knew what I was talking about. You’ve done a great service to people like me who know I have to get serious and make a rig like you did but I guess Hawaii might loose me in order to get enough land and privacy to build and install and test something as awesome as you’ve designed and built! Thanks so much for sharing everything with us, I know that there must be plenty of slack jawed people out there which I would be one of if my dad wasn’t an engineer too! And my dad would be proud of me for thinking ahead and for wanting to prepare myself and to take care of my loved ones and neighbors in an emergency that we’ll be sure to have one way or another in the not too distant future. I’m not a doomsayer by any means but everything that I’ve learned when I was at university (UC Irvine graduated 1986 so it’s been quite a while that I’ve been learning about different kinds of emergencies and RUclips has been a wealth of knowledge too!) and since then I’ve learned so much and now it’s time to get serious about electricity if I want to include that in our future lives and what kind of provider would I be if we had to give up electricity after getting so addicted to it! And yes I’m one of the addicts myself I’m not going to lie! I’m just the only one who’s doing anything about it. Aloha, Kevin
Thanks, so far I got the hand truck, inverter, one battery. Just ordered a steel box. Right now it’s yard work and fixing the house that’s keeping me busy.
@@DesertPrep - God Bless you for sharing all these wonderful information with us. Is there a way I could speak with you just for a few minutes about something? I plan to build this portable unit you did and have my friend help me since I am an idiot with electronics...anyway...do you have an email address or cell phone and I will contact you right away. Thank you.
Dismantled my shuttle bus RV's electrical system and about to build one of these this weekend. Thank you so much for this very well made and descriptive video. It's really going to come in handy
It certainly was a comprehensive explanation of your building process. Thank you for sharing. Since you asked for suggestions this is the only thing I can think of. Eliminate the handtruck and build a really small frame with detachable wheels and a handle on to the unit that would make it even smaller and easier to say than put in the trunk of the car.
I think that's a very good idea. Making a version that's much more portable would open up a lot of possibilities. Switching to a LiFePo battery would really save on weight for this kind of use.
I was actually looking you up because I found an error in the design spreadsheet, but that was version 1.2, and I see you're up to version 1.4, with that error already gone, so - never mind about that... You may find that LiFePO4 batteries are an even better choice than Lithium Poly batteries, because even though they aren't *quite* as small for the energy stored, they last so much longer, and they're still much lighter/energy stored than lead/acid batteries. www.electriccarpartscompany.com is one example, where one can buy those for much less than what they used to cost, so you may even find the price jump isn't nearly as bad as it was when you started looking into this concept. At the prices for their Fortune 100 AH cells, it may actually be cheaper than lead *over the lifetime of the batteries* because while they cost about 4x typical lead/acid batteries of similar capacity, they will last at least 6x longer, and you can use the top 80% of them every day without damaging that, vs. only the top 50% of a typical SLA battery, so you have more usable reserve built into the batteries. I'm not endorsing that particular company, I haven't yet done business with them, but shop around and you should be able to find similar products, whether or not you get them from them. Thanks for your efforts in posting both this information, and the updates/revisions for the rest of the world to share too!
Thanks for the note. I was really hoping to hear from someone who’d reviewed the sheet and found an issue so it could be corrected, so I appreciate you finding it. It occurs to me that I need to put some info about he channel in the docs to help someone find it later, so thanks for that as well. I’ll check out the batteries...
A thoroughly inspiring tutorial indeed, not only a totally professional & practical layout, the neatness of the layout speaks safety. Totally impressed with your project.
It’s quite the masterpiece already ! I suppose a solar tracker & linear actuator setup on the panels would be the cherry on top. Cheers & thanks for making such a great video.
I can't teach you anything because I myself was seeking knowledge, and would like to thank you Ever so kindly for sharing your knowledge and time and effort put into helping me, Bravo and well done! May you and your family be blessed and prosperous because of your generous attitude in sharing
Great video! I’m building with myself but using a battle born 100 amp hour lithium phosphate battery. It’s a lighter, quicker charging and will be the equivalent of two AGM batteries because you can fully discharge lithium ion. I plan on using these on my roof but having manual mechanized tilting system for the solar panels in winter and in summer.
Several months ago I built a smaller "mobile power" setup for the sheer convenience of not having to utilize a ridiculously long extension cable when i need to power something outside - a wooden crate from Walmart's crafts isle, plus some swivel casters and inexpensive 100w panel kit from Harbor Freight was definitely enough to meet my needs, then. But this... Dude. This is all sorts of awesome. After watching this, I can't confidently call mine a "mobile power" setup anymore... not out loud, at least - I'll just call it BoB - just a 'box of batteries!' Thanks a bunch for sharing! I've gotta implement some of these ideas and get BoB some upgrades so I can slap the AZ sun in the face!
Very nice build. I would recommend adding a 12 volt buck converter/regulator (output 12.5 - 13.8 volts) for use with Ham Radios and other voltage sensitive devices so you don’t exceed power specs and burn them up. Also, a low wattage, switched, LED light to illuminate generator controls in the dark would be helpful. Good luck!
Its so obvious that your aim is to make it as easy as possible for someone else to make it. Worksheet and everything. this is not a learn from the video, it is almost a full course
Thanks, and good luck on the build for your parents. They can have some relief from the extended outage, and some protection against future instability. All the best.
I went to Puerto Rico after Maria, I brought with me...a harbor freight tailgate generator 900 watt. Small and 48 pounds. 83 bucks, ran a small fridge, 2 lights, 2fans tv and charge batteries. I will build my mother a solar setup when I return to the island.
What a great video. How to help people during the worst times of their lives is fantastic. I live in the city and not a electricians but understand this videos value. Well done!
I have been wondering how to power up my new overlanding trailer build, and run across your work, this is well thought out and to the point. Thank you for all your efforts. .
Best, most complete simple explanation on youtube on anything!!! All the details without any bs, every second involves needed info. This is what Ive been looking for forever for my cabin.
Very nice setup! Love how cleanly executed your wiring job turned out! To lighten the load, consider using 100Ah lithium batteries as they only weigh about 31lbs per each and outperform lead acid batteries hands down! Thanks for making such an informative video! - Brian + Erin Currently converting our old school bus into a tiny home on wheels
@@njtexit8 for us, it’s usable capacity vs price which was a huge decision point along with performance in different weather conditions. Different needs will dictate which battery truly is a good deal 😉
Sir, this video and the solar generator unit are incredibly well designed and executed. Your step by step analysis and descriptions make it possible for anyone to understand and build their own system. Awesome! Bravo, Sir. Darryl
I was just about to start hooking up all my gear with a pretty clear idea of how it was all going to be laid out. BUT, then I stumbled your set-up! Well, guess what.. I will be using your template to set mine up. Exceptionally well thought out and executed! I'm Very Happy to have come upon and seen your design. Thank You for sharing and All The Best In Your Future Endeavors...
Fantastic idea and video! The final product is amazing and would be extremely useful in a time of need. Your previous videos were also great ideas and good stepping stones for the final one. I hope that people who view the video take advantage of all the work and effort you put into this project. THANK YOU!
Very nice build, and an excellent presentation. One suggestion I have is to consider the use or addition of thin flexible solar panels, which are very portable and extremely lightweight. Four 100w panels are $340 on Amazon right now and might even fit on the back side of your truck for storage. This would allow solar use somewhere besides at home. Another suggestion would be to add a small built-on bag or pouch to the truck for storing supplies and tools, such as spare fuses, wrench, cheap multimeter, multitool, one 55 gal drum-liner bag to pull over the truck if it rains, etc. (should only add around a pound) Adding a port to attach a generator to top off the batteries would also be a good idea. (and I love the use of power poles, though I would add a 10-15ft 10ga high strand count twin lead power pole jumper and a 1-to-4 power pole distribution block to the bag) I use power poles for my solar cables, though I suppose you went with SAE since that's what the less experienced viewers are likely to use? I use a green shell for + so I don't confuse 12v with > 12v runs.
Great build, I love it. Have you thought about adding just a small LED light panel on the very top so when the power went out at night you can just switch on the LED and be able to see every part of your power generator and not have to go look for a flashlight first?
Yes, well done all the way around. Thank you. Since you are expertise consider 1. the weight is lb, and N these stand for pound, and Newton. Kg or g are mass and cannot make a weight scale go down (up, left, right, back, or forth). You have to have force which is lb or N. If you can figure this out you will have correct definition of current physics. If you can't you will be like the smart members of the world and never have a correct definition of physics as it is currently modeled. Funny for hundreds of years no one has been able to figure this out - I think you can at least think about this as you go about your excellence, otherwise it would not be a comment. 2. the solar panels can be moved during the year so all are nearer optimum - say two to four settings, and simply mount them all the same angle each 3 to 6 months or so whatever your desire to optimize. (whoops this is already in the comments, sorry) 3. I want to go all DC (like Westinghouse?). I use a 2 battery type system to get two 12 V DC circuits from a 28 to 32 V DC panel. This 2 battery system makes 24 V DC circuit as well (That would be the series for batteries, right?, with the single output from the panel) now each battery or 12 V circuit can add a 12 V battery as needed - say 10 to 20 in the extreme. So you have a 1 panel of 28 to 32 V that runs 2, 12V batteries like yours. You get two 12V circuits and 1, 24V circuit, all DC. The 12V is for 'automotive' like you have using cigarette lighter and USB. The 24V circuit is for 18 V drill batteries and 20 V laptop computer batteries - also refrigerators, freezers that have 12 or 24V DC. I like this system because it can charge batteries or run a 24 V system directly during sun energy. (You have to be careful not to have - radiation at night or discharge batteries at night when radiation goes from ambient night temperature earth to absolute zero universe.) I am trying to get refrigeration with refrigerator and freezer that operate during sun energy and super insulate and hold during non sun energy. I think next step is to avoid batteries somewhat and store the sun energy in water at a higher elevation. So in sun energy the refrigerator and water pump at 24V (or 28 to 32V depending on the type of electrical device that will work in a range without damage to it). Something for you to think about. I am also making solar heaters by concentrating of just letting the sun energy transfer somehow. There are different ways to do this. But integrating into electric type things is possible for they are all the same thing - energy (remember the gram thing you are going to think about; the gram is actually energy just like charge, foot lb as in water raised to an elevation, etc. All the exact same thing!) What has also occurred to me is that for large projects you can use several of the 2 battery systems and place the panel and batteries in different locations. Your 2 battery system can do exactly the same thing. So the 2 battery is very versatile. I don't really want to put 20, 12V batteries in a circuit and another 20, 12V batteries in the circuit next to that for 2, 12V infinite amp hour capacity and add 28 to 32 V solar panels to match. I like the simple 2 battery, 1 panel or in your case 2 battery 4 panel where you are using lower energy panels - same thing. Very good system. Hope to hear more from your channel in the future. Excellent job. Thanks again.
Very comprehensive. It’s interesting to read your thoughts as they introduce a myriad of interesting possibilities. If i was going off-grid permanently in a go-for-broke move, I’d likely integrate quite a bit of your thinking. Thanks for taking the time to articulate all of it.
great job. nice video. and a wonderful portable power generator. My daughter called yesterday asking if I had a gas generator as their power has been out since tuesday due to the wind storm in Salt Lake City. I don't have a gas generator but am building my whole house off grid power plant while still connected to the grid for BACKUP. I have had small portable solar generators, but most crap out after a time. So I will add yours as a reference to build a portable one that will allow me to loan to my kids the next time they need help. I saw your fixed panels and that is great. The EPEVER can handle a larger array if you can add some panels over time. In my daughter's case, I thought having an extra set of panels that would be portable and possibly stored. Then I could take the generator and the panels to her house and offer her some power. Great job and 73s
Good video, great information. I will be using your templates to get me started on my own portable unit for my travel trailer. Thank you for taking the time to share your work with others.
This video has been inspirational to my own DIY setup. I simplified the design immensely but implementing the use of the MPP Solar Off-Grid Solar Inverter. An all-in-one MPPT charge controller, pure sine wave inverter, all while supporting grid charging when necessary. The output of the inverter is 800W but meets any needs that I've needed to present. Thank you.
Have you ever thought of adding a wind powered generator to help charge the batteries as well as the solar. Up here in WI we have often have wind on gray days and nights that could supplement the solar.
That would require a hybrid inverter to take the higher voltages of a wind generator as well as things like a dump load, it would increase the size and complexity a bit. It could be done though.
Iʻll probably have to watch this a few times to increase my confidence in taking the first step in a project like this. It does intrigue me as I got to this video from watching your earlier phase. Great job with putting this video and project together. Very clear explanation. I have minimal experience with power generators, but am an avid DIYer and am looking forward to trying something like this to lower my anxieties during the annual hurricane seasons.
Well done video. Your system is well thought out and cleanly assembled, kudos for that too. I don't know the vintage of your build, but today, 2022, you could use lithium batteries that will draw down further without harm and PV panels with more than double the output in the same foot print. The 2000 watt inverter I purchased is not robust enough to start my 4" angle grinder, because of this, all my other power tools are now battery powered. I will place a larger inverter beside the 2k unit for when I need to draw some serious power. I'm converting my sailboat from 25 hp diesel to a 10kw electric motor this summer. It will run on 48 volts. About 1200 watts of PV panels is all that will fit. While 3 - 48 volt lithium banks should handle all our needs. Good luck!
Mate that is absolutely bloody fantastic, really nice work. Thanks heaps for sharing, I just wish I had your electrical prowess, but I will certainly give it a red hot crack. Thanks again and keep up the wicked projects.
Thank you for your time and effort...it gives me the knowledge for having back up (off grid) power. The only thing I may add is putting a lid or board to top of the batteries as to have additional safety for the terminals.
I would add a high current Anderson plug for extra capacity and with that you could also create a secondary battery box with the other end of the high current Anderson plug wtih a jumper cables also so you can easily jump a vehicle in dire need.
Desert Prep you are most welcome and something else to think about for batteries is AGM gel batteries that are used in say power wheelchairs for deep discharge as well
Your system looks very handy and professional. It is a unique idea to install it all on a hand truck. I have never thought of that myself. However, I think that during the wintertime you should have all the four panels at the same angle as those two are now, perhaps just aiming them a bit higher (more flat). During the summer all those four would still collect as much energy as they do now (2 horizontal + 2 nearly vertical), but during the winter you would get nearly twice as much as with your present installation. Quite often the need for energy is lower during the long summer days when there is not so much lighting needed. Of course, it depends on what else you need that energy for. It is also worth considering using a bit bigger batteries with so big an inverter, which could totally empty your batteries in less than an hour. If you have emptied your batteries and you need to use your gasoline generator for your electricity needs, you could charge your battery bank at the same time, and then a bit bigger charger would come handy also. Thanks anyway for a clear presentation and a unique idea.
Great video ! only upgrades id make would be: 1) Circuit breakers instead of Fuses. Fuses wont be available in shtf scenario. 2) Your large Battery cables ( Pos & Neg ) Cross over each other and that is Never a good idea. i Never cross pos & neg wires because they can rub through the insulation and arc over time or high amperage melt. If absolutely unavoidable use a Split loom covering Between them , install it on the black cable since split loom is black. Or u can use Clear tubing or rubber hose split fown the middle and secure with wire ties for sacrificial rubbing. Otherwise Very Excellent Build ! Im in the Process of a Build Myself. Very similar to yours but different in some ways.
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. Where are you located? Would you consider assembling and shipping this (or all except batteries)? If so pls email me mayagayam at gmail with price. Thank you 🙏🏼
Great ideas! But yes Auto Fuses will be everywhere in most cases except in the senario of a EMP. But then his unit will be shot unless (and maybe still) he has an anti EMP tarp over it at time of occurrence.
People got to stop using fuses --- its like using AA batteries. throwing away stuff / polluting planet and buying fuses & AA batteries is so 1980. just flip a circuit breaker and u are going again. no looking for fuses , no throwing them away , saves waste polluting planet. , no buying- save your cash.
There are so many YT's that have covered this subject and I have always finished their video's felling more confused that I was when I started. This one however left me well informed and with the tools to make my own decissions. Thanks for a great video tutorial.
This is for you, and speaking from experience: Make sure that there is an air gap of at least 4" to 6" between the flat solar panels and the roof. This is for 3 reasons,: 1). the hotter the panel becomes the lower the output that panel produces, so I have 5 (five) 1375 +/-w panels , that produce an average of 1350 to 1390 w each, but when they start to heat up, my panels tend to lose peak power production, and I have friends who have stated the same, "keep your panels cool, and they will keep you happy." 2). when it rains, it pours, enough said; take this to heart, My first system produced right around 7500 to 7800 w in full sun, and 4950 to 5600 w on a mild cloudy day, but after the first major storm, I noticed a significant drop in available wattage, from the standard of taking maybe 2.5 to 3 hrs to charge my battery banks, [28 (6 volt) Kukula (Spanish) deep cycle lead acid/glass mat, sealed batteries, capable of storing 52.4 kilowatts of power] to (after the soaker), now needing 10+ hours to charge my battery bank in full sun. Now, I am not stating that this is 'normal' as it may be just a freak accident (though I have been told that it is becoming quite prevalent, that the manufactures do not correctly seal the frames, and hence allows for water to access the critical parts and cause damage to the module(s). And finally, 3). Where my solar panels are parked, is prime real-estate, I use the area of my roof to both collect water (water catchment system) and heat my water (solar powered hot water heater, mounted under the panels, and yes the water takes longer to heat up but the space where the panels are, is being used for four other purposes, solar, water catchment, water heating, and all my weather sensors. So, by raising your panels up 4" to 6" you can save them from damage from rain and water, and keep them cool where their performance will not be diminished due to the heat of the building. (Oh, and by the way, my panels were raised up to the 1 meter mark (3' 3", or 39") and I still have room enough to run other stuff under that area... . And now you have a new subscriber, with a thumbs up, I enjoyed the content. -Birdy
Hey you battery bank usually need 8 hrs to get fully chardged and thats with 10% of chardge power if you hawe that .. to use longer time ..than 8hra I think somthing is wrong with the math 7500watt can't chardge 52.400watt and yes they can but not in 3 hrs unless the bank is almost full I haw'e 4 x 4 200A AGM Sonneshine thats 48v 800A But i need to use 80A to chardge in 8 hrs to go from 10.5v to 14.4v So i have 3000wattPV x 2 .. 2 60A EPever chardgers My house is East West .. so i haw'e 3000 x 2 East and 3000 x 2 vest And 4 60A EPever and going to buy 4 more batteries .. So i haw'e 48.000Watt but I still can't chardge faster .. becaus the Chargers von't exceed Chardge speed .. and i can't in any way get my AGM Deep cycle batteries to absorb 800A in 3 hrs unless ITs LiOn or What ever xcotic fast chardge fast dischardge battery .. Why i hawe 2 East 2 vest .. so i in any given time on a cloudy Day Haw atleast 2000watt of the 12.000 And when do you use power ..in the morning and the evening .. And i go for max batteri juice at night time
Being doing Electronics for over 20 years and found your video to be good. I myself have built a system in case of blackouts. While i do not have a solar option at this time i still can get around 24 hrs out of my 2 120amp hour agm batteries drawing around 350watts. use it on a need only use, this can last for days. But i do recommend using a battery isolator switch (master switch) that way if something goes wrong you can shut it off. The system i built is expensive but very basic, that way if a fault does occur it is easy to find and fix. Sometimes simply is best.
Thank you for all of the countless hours you have put into researching and building these generators. Question, though... It's now 2022 and I'd imagine it will cost $2K to build this. What is the advantage to building vs buying a similar one for $2500. Thanks again!
Other than a master kill sw, this is a well planed & presented idea. 5-thoughts. One may consider putting one of the batteries (or add a 3-rd) over the axle on the back side of the trk to balance out the weight when transporting. 2, put a removable lid / cover over the top of the batts for protection and to use a as a platform to put / store things. 3, build a holder above the front batts to hold several PV panels during transport. PV's can be removed from the holder, set-up at a remote location while in use then returned to the trk while being transported back to storage. 4, Consider adding the option of a 3-rd locking wheel on the front to roll fully vertical due to weight. 5, Consider adding a flip-up rain-guard or umbrella to cover the unit if a sudden dn pour hits while in use.
I have setup panels at the respective peak angles like you have. If you put the horizontal panels at the base of the winter angle panels, then the reflected light off the glazing during the non-peaks hits the other panel and increases yield slightly.
Thank you for this I was researching this exact setup for my truck I want to make it portable and part of my SUV something I can take out of the SUV and used anywhere else and the plan is to put my components in my SUV and have another component on the outside of that suv .wiring diagram is perfect.hue from Virginia
Thanks, Hugh. Appreciate the feedback. I’ve been having the same thoughts about building a version for our RV. I think we could nearly eliminate use of the fuel-driven generator. Good luck with your project.
I've been searching for a system that can match my needs. This is a complete, understandable tutorial that will guide me through a build that up until now, seemed too technical. Thank you very much!
Not sure if someone mentioned this but on panels in series you want to have them contributing the same. The panels that get less sun can actually consume power i believe. A while ago i read that solar panels that are partially blocked can get to act like a diode or series resistance and thats no bueno. Im really just a arm chair expert here, but it may be something worth checking out?
I think you’re onto an important aspect of the design that affects its capability. I’m currently measuring the solar production of the panels themselves, looking at tilt angle dirt, wiring configuration, shade, etc. I’ll post a video soon with the results...
Desert Prep I think you'll be fine, I've seen other people on youtube do a panel for dawn, for afternoon, and dusk. You can really lengthen the day this way but you lose amps. It's better to have longer run times I think.
Failed/dark panels basically become resistors, and will really drag down the charge current. The solution is to stick a bypass diode in parallel with the panel, if there isn't one already.
Well my first comment is that was the best narration I have a "how to" I've ever heard in my life. The only things I think I would have added is an enclosure. A large aluminum project box. With an enclosure it probably would need a couple cooling fans but I think aesthetically, and functionally, and enclosure would provide it with some necessary protection. Perhaps with a couple lexan windows to see the inside. Then Mount your sockets and switches to the enclosure. I think I would have replaced the dolly. I probably would have assembled a dolly from high-strength schedule 40 PVC to cut down on weight and maximize spatial efficiency. Maybe adding some friction locking hinged arms that move in x-y axis with pistons on the y-axis to add portability to the solar panels. I know weight is a concern but if you can fabricate the dolly it would save a ton of weight. Those things are pretty heavy. Otherwise, much better than I could have ever fabricated. Outstanding job. I think you broke the internet with this one.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
No music, no shaky video, no garbage, only knowledge sharing. Hats off to you, thank you for sharing this with us
Yes there are some people who still know how to make a quality video
This... THIS.. is the way how to videos should be done. No one learns by simply watching and listening to music. Thank you for superb content sir.
You are one of the very few RUclipsrs that understands audience, having an organized list of talking points or a script, and delivering it clearly and cleanly with heart but not a bunch of vocal noodling. I am an English teacher and admire your build and your speaking/presenting skills. Thank you fine sir, and may God bless your efforts and your audience.
Yes indeed, I too was struck by notable absence of vocal noodling throughout this very educational video presentation. Note to self : Vocal noodling is rarely appreciated, unless it is at least mildly amusing. That reminds me of the one about a man who walked into a bar with an agitated porcupine under each arm....... On second thoughts, maybe another time....
I didn't pay due respect to my English teachers in school, and found that I had to get it together or people in the working world wouldn't respect me and my opportunities would be limited. Fortunately, I'm a voracious reader, and that saved me - learning to articulate from literature. I expect many, many of your students are better off in the world because of your efforts, and you have my deepest respect. The compliment is most appreciated.
And I want to say thank you very much as well.
I am a union electrician and have been in the trade for 20+ years. This is a Very well put together video is accurate and to the point . Probably the best video I've ever seen to explain and give correct information about ANY subject matter so that all can understand. 👏👏
Thank you for the time and energy you spent on this alot of people will benifit from it.
Michael Birtley thank you for that comment .
I agree 100%
Can I use five 80w solar panels in place of four 100w solar panels. I can't get the 100w because of coronavirus. Will everything else in the video remain the same?
@@kennethmacleod5147 yes !! Only difrence is chardging time ..
@@kennethmacleod5147 check out RICH SOLAR panels on Amazon.
Same panels, basically, 4 100w mono,poly...for $388.00
I have hundreds of hours watching videos on small solar setups and this is by far the best one yet. Hats off.
Wow, thanks!
Thank you! I built a solar generator based on your video two years ago. I followed your design using a few different components / brands that were more readily available where I live. But the outcome is very similar to yours. My system is powered by two 100W 12V solar panels. I use mine in a hangar at a local airfield where there is no power. It has completely replaced the gas generator I used previously. The system powers my table saw, mitre saw, drill press, belt/disc sander, microwave, lights, radio, 110V hand tools and battery chargers for cordless power tools, as well as recharges my cell phones and batteries for an RC rock crawler. Fantastic! Thanks again. The best and most useful DIY project I have ever built.
Is there an advantage to using 300 watt panels?
Seriously, amazing! I'll be sharing this video with relief workers, missionaries, Preppers, and everyone else I can think of.
Few things I would add:
- Small charging basket for devices
- Lightweight, coroplast, waterproof cover that hinges near the top of the truck
- Small shelf above the batteries to carry all 4 solar panels for use in mobile applications
- Cord spooling hooks on both sides of the truck
- Magnet mounted rotatable floodlight
- Huge decal saying, "Thank you Desert Prep for the most useful video on the internet!"
As a Coach. An ECE instructor and a C10 Electrical Contractor that was as brilliant as any tutorial I’ve seen. Thank you for sharing
Just completed the break-in period and so far the unit is operating perfectly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y . I was amazed by just how quiet this little guy is. I kept having to walk down the driveway to the generator to make sure it was still running. In fact, the most annoying noise coming from the set-up is a high-pitched chirping coming from the pressure regulator on the propane line. I suppose it's possible my other propane-powered generator's pressure regulator is making the same noise, but the generator itself is so loud I've never noticed it. Build quality so far is excellent. My only nit is the service panel is a little tricky to remove. I feel like I might break off one of the plastic tabs when bending it back. I probably just need to work out the technique, so will not hold it against Champion.Next week I intend to fully load the unit to charge a large battery pack and will update this review if there's any problem (3000W continuous load vs a rated 3100W capacity while using propane). Absent any trouble there, I'm 100% pleased with this purchase.
The recent PG&E black out just made me realize how important this is. My needs, basically a fridge and few phones, seem pretty similar to yours. Thanks for sharing your build
Mirroring the thoughts of others here. This is the absolute best tutorial I've seen on this subject (and really on any subject). So comprehensive, yet doesn't waste time. The pictures really give a great understanding of exactly what to do and your spreadsheet calculator and wiring diagram are THE BEST!!!
I have three thoughts/suggestions to make this the most comprehensive build possible.
1) adding circuit breakers or fuses between the panels and the charge controller and a fuse with battery cutoff switch between the battery and the inverter (this actually makes connecting the wires less dangerous as well as providing an easy way to disconnect the batteries from load). Not that you really need the fuses because your build is so tightly connected but more for educational purposes. Other people likely won't make such a beautiful and tightly sealed up build.
2) a temperature sensor or two. One to tell the charge controller to stop charging if it's too hot/cold and one that protects the battery from discharge in high/low temp situations.
3) undervoltage protection. When the voltage drops to a point where you might damage the batteries it's nice to have an automatic cutoff.
Again, your system is incredibly well built and you know exactly what you're doing so you don't need these things, but might be fun for educational purposes.
P.S. I LOVE the way you figured out the right angle for the sun. Very MacGyver.
Many thanks for both the positive feedback and the well-reasoned suggestions. Your instincts are spot on regarding the shut off -- with only a few inches of distance, the switch adds more complexity and wiring while protecting just inches of potential short-circuit. The charge controller does have a temperature sensor that I didn't detail in the video. I really agree in the low-voltage protection, but I've been unable to find a reasonable option. At hundreds of dollars, the protection is more expensive than the components it protects. Perhaps someone will develop one that closely matches a project like this at a reasonable price.
I was in electronics for almost 15 years after I got my degree and have not seen this level of build expertise since then. This was beautifully laid out. Technically thorough and well presented and easy to follow. Thank you so much.
Very professional narration, never ever heard on YT. Hats off, Sir. This is called the epitome of perfection. Thank you.
Love this! I keep trying to download the spec and design sheets but it won’t go through to your desertprep.info site... any other place to get this info? Thanks so much for your great work!!
Need to start looking into gasifiers which you can run your generator off of the fuel it makes and it’s a free fuel because we have trees and bushes and dead branches everywhere. Which would make a generator a good idea also. Only the gasifier would do that
I actually couldn’t agree more... the narration and overall flow was done better than most professional productions.... this is the guy everyone wishes lived next door.
@@charlesrossman5426 - hey man... Could you elaborate a bit more on this gasifier doohickey? I’m working on a build just like this one, if not identical, and have never heard of what you mentioned.. thanks!
000 song from the '70s lyrics yes you can can if you can can if you want if you want it and you can can
Wow... So often these videos leave one confused... If RUclips gave out awards, this one, my man, would take them all. The type of content that I would literally pay for. So concise. Thank you very much. I'll start my build this weekend.
I watched all your videos on this build. I have to say, you're a freaking genius man. You thought of factors which very few would have considered until the problem arose. I am extremely impressed. Excellent video, build, narration, note keeping, everything! Just amazing!!
Hello Desert Prep. I was cruising through youtube videos when I came across this video. My first comment is great minds think alike. Back in 2016 I built a nearly identical system to yours including your choices for charge controller, solar panels, inverter, digital readouts and how to wire it. My goal was to have power for simple electronics when I boondock with my Aliner or for emergency use. The difference is I used two 100W panels instead of four, one 100Ah deep cycle battery instead of two, and my whole system including a 2000W pure sine wave inverter is attached/contained in a type 27 battery enclosure. So I can store it on a shelf in a cabinet. Though I do use a small four wheel dolly to roll it around since it weighs 80 pounds. My system cost $980 to build, but that's 2016 dollars. Thanks for the excellent video. It brought back memories.
This is fantastic! Thank you! My suggestion: Start an operation where you combine all the items in kit form and sell it to prospective buyers. Use crowdfunding to finance the operation. Encourage buyers to record their projects. This reminds me of how Dell started. This video is a powerful pitch for crowdfunding.
I’m a electrician and this guys work is so perfect, everything is done neatly and efficiently.
Very impressive Solar Generator and explanation. However, there is one major oversight from what I see in your design. You need to add a heavy duty SHUT OFF switch (marine switch) on the positive side of your batteries to shut down the whole generator in the event of an unexpected short. The smell of burning insulation and the sight of smoke without a way to quickly shut the generator down would be devastating.
Also, as mentioned in another comment your cables supplying DC to your inverter need to be a larger gauge to handle higher wattage devices.
Looks like your 12 volt accessory jack and your Anderson Power Pole jacks need a buck converter to regulate the output voltage to prevent frying Ham Radios and other 12 volt devices with tight voltage tolerances. From my experience, solar controllers typically output up to 15 volts during battery equalization charging cycles.
I would also suggest you consider someway to waterproof your design. In emergency situations a generator like this could easily end up outside where an unexpected rain shower could ruin your day and your equipment.
I can see how your design could be very handy around the house, but if you had to transport it in a car to help out a family member or friend, that could be challenging. Perhaps a two part approach would be easier to relocate. The batteries might be a rolling box, and the electronics might be some type of wagon configuration. Just a suggestion.
I admire your passion for portable solar power. Your willingness to design and redesign multiple improved versions is great to see. For you to freely share your progress and invite feedback from your peers is absolutely outstanding! Keep up the Great work you’re doing!
Agreed on the 12v jack being unregulated. He could rewire it to the MPPT controller's "Load" output which is 12v regulated.
Good thoughts Joe, however 12 VDC HAM and audio equipment is generally designed for up to a 15 V maximum input to tolerate the output from automotive charging systems, who's voltage regulators are supposed to limit to around 14.9 V during engine running conditions. If anything needs tighter control than that, a separate regulator would be needed.
hey joe how many batteries do you think i could add to this .......................bob
or desert prep
and he need to add a fire extinguisher plus keep all generators at least 4-6ft from the house
Been thinking about mounting my portable solar system on a hand truck... but I really enjoy being able to grab it and go in my car. Made two 100 watt panels into a solar suitcase with handles using all stainless hardware... it cranks out 12amps with my mppt charge controller hooked to a 125 amp hour AGM... have room to expand with a 40amp mppt controller... just add two more panels and an extra battery! Also have a 1200 watt pure sine wave inverter and 4 usb outlets and two cigarette ports... absolutely love it! Great video thanks!
Dude. You're not getting older-you're getting BETTER!
I absolutely LOVE the simplicity & serviceability of your latest setup!
LOL - great compliment. Thanks so much...
The only thing I would do differently would be to get Group 27 Size Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries, and an MPPT Controller configured FOR those batteries.
Here is my unsecured email address: ebxrocks@yahoo.com.
Please contact me there and I'll respond from my SECURED address.
I noticed an error in the spreadsheet. Cell G5 is the surge for the first item, and there is no formula, it is just set to 900. So even if you 0 out the quantity for that line it is still totaled up and affects the size of the inverter. In my example it was saying i needed a 2000w inverter, when I really needed 1000w, big price difference.
My solution is it to add a peak watts column and peak load column. So you enter the peak watts for each item (just as you do in the "watts") and it totals up in the peak load column (just as your current "Load" column does). Then when selecting an inverter make sure that it meets both criteria, constant load and peak load.
These are absolutely phenomenal videos and tools you have put together and shared with everyone. Thank you very much for putting in the work to help out so many other people!
Looks great. Thinking about giving this a shot and can’t thank you enough for all the work you put in to this project.
You’re most welcome. Working the generator to its current state has been very rewarding, and the upgrades will leave us in a much better place should we face a grid-down situation. I’m now toying with the idea of upgrading the solar capabilities of our RV...
Desert Prep I have some questions
I can't wait to see that, I was thinking to add solar on our RV and will definitely look to your solution before to do anything. Thank you for all the work you put in.
@@DesertPrep I got here while looking for ideas for such a system to have in my RV, but able to take it out when in a tent or at home. Have it mobile and with a higher WAF.
I was considering solar for my RV but the cost of a system that can run an AC and a fridge is out of my price range! I came across your video which looks like a great and cost-effective setup!
I will like to personally thank you taking the time to make this this video available. I built the exact same system this weekend and it turned out perfect. Again thanks!
Nice work! I'm delighted to hear you've got your own system built, and I hope your community gets as much use from it as mine does here.
your attention to detail, clear and concise instruction is exceptional.
I had been thinking of doing exactly the same project, for several months, but now I have an example beyond reproach.
Thank you so very much.
Thanks for the kind comment.
Great job explaining planning and leaving links. Pure genius.
Love the video, very professional and well made! One note to those who are interested in doing a project like this, and maybe something you did or did not take into account with this build is that solar panels in series are derated by the production of any panel in the series and so any panel in a series string should ONLY be wired with panels of the same type and same orientation or else the lowest voltage or current output will constrict the flow of electrons to its level. An MPPT charge controller will always optimize the output to the battery for charging it so as long as you are within the parameters of its input and output you are golden. In this case, the panels that are oriented towards the sun should be on their own string and the panels horizontally mounted should as well, then the two strings can be combined before they reach the charge controller for their most efficient output. for a clean installation, all of this can be accomplished at the array with two MC4 Y connectors to combine the two strings. As long as the combine amps from each string do not exceed the amps rating of the PV wires you do not need overcurrent protection or a combiner box. Also because solar panel voltage fluctuates very little while the amps/current fluctuates based on the level of solar irradiance you get a net sum effect with this wiring V.S. a continuous series string. Wiring dissimilar modules in this configuration would not necessarily produce the same desired effect as the voltage would be drawn down by the lower voltage string. If anyone would like more info or consulting my website is www.zensolar.info. Cheers!
One of the best builds I’ve seen on RUclips. I’d add a low voltage alarm. Mine has saved my build several times and has paid for itself many times over in overdischarge and potentially permanent battery damage not to mention the safety concern.
K J thinking the same thing, Missouri Wind and Solar has one I like.
Excellent comment. The particular inverter I used has a low voltage alarm, alerting you to a low-voltage over-discharge that will certainly harm the batteries. This is vital because the batteries represent 1/3 of the investment in the project, and replacing them would be painful.
Is this the one? mwands.com/store/low-voltage-shutdown-relay-switch?search=battery%20protection
If so, is there an anything similar on Amazon?
I'm running the same 40 amp charge controller but with a 24 volt battery setup. The charge controller comes with a default low voltage cutoff preprogrammed into it and can be adjusted with MT-50 meter
P.S. Really excellent work
I think using decent quality ( lead acid ) regular 12v Deep cycles would be acceptable. I dont think agms are worth the additional cost vs amount of time u need to use the rig. Id rather spend the money on extra regular batterys than agms personally.
Recently I purchased a small trailerable houseboat for the ultimate off grid floating cabin. I’ve watched over 100 hundred yt videos. Your video has been one of the best. This will provide my power and I will have propane for backup. Thanks for the links provided.
Without doubt the absolute best solar power pack I've ever seen, wonderfully described with no unneeded information. Very inspiring! I plan on doing a scaled down version of this using your system as a template. Thank You!
Finally, a professionally made diy solar generator video. Well narrated, efficient, and links to resources provided. Very well done, sir!
Here's a Post-SHTF Event system I designed and built:
I started with a Pelican IM-2435 Storm Case. In it, I placed TWO Bioenno 12 Volt, 40 Amp LiFePO4 Batteries connected in Parallel for 960 Watt Hours of storage. I added a 500 Watt DC to AC PURE Sine Inverter. Then I added an Allpowers 100 Watt Foldup Solar Panel. I then gave it a Goal Zero Mini USB Lantern for remote lighting.
NOW comes the Instrument Panel. It fits neatly in the top of the Main case, covering the goodies inside. ON this Board are a 20 AMP Bioenno PWM Charge Controller, EIGHT THREE AMP USB OUTPUTS, 3 12 VDC Sockets, and an Anderson Dual Powerpole Plug. In the Lid, there is an Insert that contains three Cig Buddy Powerpole Plugs, Two 5-foot Power Pole Jumper Cords, three short Standard to Mini USB reducers, and a rechargeable Flashlight.
Using the 500 Watt Inverter, and the 100 Watt Solar Panel, I can literally keep 4-5 Cordless Tool Batteries at the ready all day long, and NOT Drain the Main Battery! In the Evening, it CAN run my home entertainment system (I have another Battery for that) but IF I instead put a 1000 Watt PURE Sine inverter to it, this unit WILL run a Leaf blower! I DID that today at a job site!
I DESIGNED AND BUILT THIS UNIT MYSELF. It is on Rollers and fits in the cab of my Pickup
It has roughly the same capabilities as your system, however it takes up a MUCH smaller footprint, is COMPLETELY weatherproof when closed up, and weighs less than 40 Pounds! I store it in the extra cab portion of my pickup, or it can safely ride in the trunk of a car. It is ready ANY time, ANY where. What's really neat, is when the batteries finally do give out, it is all on quick-disconnects, and both Batteries can be changed out in under 90 Seconds! It DID cost me some Bucks to build it, however!
That Pelican case is pricey but nice!
Super nice set up mechanic of 25 years here and it meets your needs which is the most important no problem is the cost but over time I could see how it will pay off good job my friend
This video is a biiiiiiiig asset to society so glad its still up to this day.
This video is without a doubt the best DIY project I have ever seen. I am an illiterate rock when it comes to electrical work. But this video is so well made and understandable that I actually comprehended the subject material. You sir are and excellent teacher.
Incredible... only thing I can think to improve would be to enclose the whole thing to protect for weather. Amazing video and very useful. One of the best videos I have seen on RUclips.
I built one. Thank you. I used one 12v marine battery and a 12v 1800 cca Maxwell Super Capacitor. The super capacitor allows me to run circular saw almost all day. The super capacitor charges fully in 3 minutes.
Awesome setup! I have an industrial rubbermaid push cart I use for my setup. the bottom shelf has four 100Ah deep cycle batteries and the top shelf has my inverter and other electronics. I'm using four 230 watt panels with the same Epever charge controller (80Amp version). I have to say it works very well but make sure you ground the system!
I have no idea what I’d do differently except I’m going to have to up my studying of not only the diagrams that you have left us and watch your video over and over until I can understand really well what’s really going on, but I’m going to have to start studying up on basic electrical engineering! I have to say that my dad was an engineer and I can tell by your very cautious nature and your attention to detail that you and he would have gotten along great! And between the two of you I bet I could even ask enough questions after doing my homework to make it sound like I knew what I was talking about. You’ve done a great service to people like me who know I have to get serious and make a rig like you did but I guess Hawaii might loose me in order to get enough land and privacy to build and install and test something as awesome as you’ve designed and built! Thanks so much for sharing everything with us, I know that there must be plenty of slack jawed people out there which I would be one of if my dad wasn’t an engineer too! And my dad would be proud of me for thinking ahead and for wanting to prepare myself and to take care of my loved ones and neighbors in an emergency that we’ll be sure to have one way or another in the not too distant future. I’m not a doomsayer by any means but everything that I’ve learned when I was at university (UC Irvine graduated 1986 so it’s been quite a while that I’ve been learning about different kinds of emergencies and RUclips has been a wealth of knowledge too!) and since then I’ve learned so much and now it’s time to get serious about electricity if I want to include that in our future lives and what kind of provider would I be if we had to give up electricity after getting so addicted to it! And yes I’m one of the addicts myself I’m not going to lie! I’m just the only one who’s doing anything about it. Aloha, Kevin
Thanks, so far I got the hand truck, inverter, one battery. Just ordered a steel box. Right now it’s yard work and fixing the house that’s keeping me busy.
Good luck on your project. Hopefully the downloadable worksheet and wiring diagram will be helpful.
@@DesertPrep - God Bless you for sharing all these wonderful information with us. Is there a way I could speak with you just for a few minutes about something? I plan to build this portable unit you did and have my friend help me since I am an idiot with electronics...anyway...do you have an email address or cell phone and I will contact you right away. Thank you.
Dismantled my shuttle bus RV's electrical system and about to build one of these this weekend. Thank you so much for this very well made and descriptive video. It's really going to come in handy
It certainly was a comprehensive explanation of your building process. Thank you for sharing. Since you asked for suggestions this is the only thing I can think of. Eliminate the handtruck and build a really small frame with detachable wheels and a handle on to the unit that would make it even smaller and easier to say than put in the trunk of the car.
I think that's a very good idea. Making a version that's much more portable would open up a lot of possibilities. Switching to a LiFePo battery would really save on weight for this kind of use.
I was actually looking you up because I found an error in the design spreadsheet, but that was version 1.2, and I see you're up to version 1.4, with that error already gone, so - never mind about that...
You may find that LiFePO4 batteries are an even better choice than Lithium Poly batteries, because even though they aren't *quite* as small for the energy stored, they last so much longer, and they're still much lighter/energy stored than lead/acid batteries.
www.electriccarpartscompany.com is one example, where one can buy those for much less than what they used to cost, so you may even find the price jump isn't nearly as bad as it was when you started looking into this concept. At the prices for their Fortune 100 AH cells, it may actually be cheaper than lead *over the lifetime of the batteries* because while they cost about 4x typical lead/acid batteries of similar capacity, they will last at least 6x longer, and you can use the top 80% of them every day without damaging that, vs. only the top 50% of a typical SLA battery, so you have more usable reserve built into the batteries. I'm not endorsing that particular company, I haven't yet done business with them, but shop around and you should be able to find similar products, whether or not you get them from them.
Thanks for your efforts in posting both this information, and the updates/revisions for the rest of the world to share too!
Thanks for the note. I was really hoping to hear from someone who’d reviewed the sheet and found an issue so it could be corrected, so I appreciate you finding it. It occurs to me that I need to put some info about he channel in the docs to help someone find it later, so thanks for that as well. I’ll check out the batteries...
Love your work. Just what the doctor ordered for the handyman without a rock solid diagram!
Thank again.
A thoroughly inspiring tutorial indeed, not only a totally professional & practical layout, the neatness of the layout speaks safety. Totally impressed with your project.
I've been purchasing parts little by little for a garage unit. I like the dolly idea as I have little space
This is the most helpful video I have ever seen on a solar video, thanks
People like you makes the world better place .
It’s quite the masterpiece already ! I suppose a solar tracker & linear actuator setup on the panels would be the cherry on top. Cheers & thanks for making such a great video.
I can't teach you anything because I myself was seeking knowledge, and would like to thank you Ever so kindly for sharing your knowledge and time and effort put into helping me, Bravo and well done! May you and your family be blessed and prosperous because of your generous attitude in sharing
Great video! I’m building with myself but using a battle born 100 amp hour lithium phosphate battery. It’s a lighter, quicker charging and will be the equivalent of two AGM batteries because you can fully discharge lithium ion. I plan on using these on my roof but having manual mechanized tilting system for the solar panels in winter and in summer.
Several months ago I built a smaller "mobile power" setup for the sheer convenience of not having to utilize a ridiculously long extension cable when i need to power something outside - a wooden crate from Walmart's crafts isle, plus some swivel casters and inexpensive 100w panel kit from Harbor Freight was definitely enough to meet my needs, then.
But this...
Dude. This is all sorts of awesome. After watching this, I can't confidently call mine a "mobile power" setup anymore... not out loud, at least - I'll just call it BoB - just a 'box of batteries!'
Thanks a bunch for sharing! I've gotta implement some of these ideas and get BoB some upgrades so I can slap the AZ sun in the face!
I just want to say. This video is one of the most informative solar system built out there.thank you!
This is amazing the simplicity yet effectiveness of the panels the clean execution of the build bravo 👏🏿
Very nice build. I would recommend adding a 12 volt buck converter/regulator (output 12.5 - 13.8 volts) for use with Ham Radios and other voltage sensitive devices so you don’t exceed power specs and burn them up. Also, a low wattage, switched, LED light to illuminate generator controls in the dark would be helpful. Good luck!
Your thought about a [low voltage] light to make the controls visible is excellent.
Its so obvious that your aim is to make it as easy as possible for someone else to make it. Worksheet and everything. this is not a learn from the video, it is almost a full course
Great job on your build. My parents are in Puerto Rico and could use one. I'm gonna go there and build one
Thanks, and good luck on the build for your parents. They can have some relief from the extended outage, and some protection against future instability. All the best.
Desert Prep May i know but, how much time will it take me to make this i am not a electric expert
@@DesertPrep hi , I am in the Bahamas and I would love to build this solar system can you please direct me to your plan parts list
Don't let the Clinton's know. Good luck!
I went to Puerto Rico after Maria, I brought with me...a harbor freight tailgate generator 900 watt. Small and 48 pounds. 83 bucks, ran a small fridge, 2 lights, 2fans tv and charge batteries. I will build my mother a solar setup when I return to the island.
What a great video. How to help people during the worst times of their lives is fantastic. I live in the city and not a electricians but understand this videos value. Well done!
Everything is located practically and purposefully, nice one!
I have been wondering how to power up my new overlanding trailer build, and run across your work, this is well thought out and to the point. Thank you for all your efforts. .
I have two solar panels but will still probably end up getting a DC to DC charger for the system eventually.
Excellent presentation, most probably the best I’ve ever seen on this subject. Thank you.
Best, most complete simple explanation on youtube on anything!!! All the details without any bs, every second involves needed info. This is what Ive been looking for forever for my cabin.
Very nice setup! Love how cleanly executed your wiring job turned out! To lighten the load, consider using 100Ah lithium batteries as they only weigh about 31lbs per each and outperform lead acid batteries hands down! Thanks for making such an informative video!
- Brian + Erin
Currently converting our old school bus into a tiny home on wheels
Lithiums are nice but they are $1000 each while each AGM battery he is using is $207 (price Nov 12, 2020).
@@njtexit8 for us, it’s usable capacity vs price which was a huge decision point along with performance in different weather conditions. Different needs will dictate which battery truly is a good deal 😉
@@BEAdventurePartners Lithiums are great. Don't get me wrong. I wish I had the $$$ to get two to build this setup.
@@njtexit8 save up for’em! It’ll be worth it 😁
Sir, this video and the solar generator unit are incredibly well designed and executed.
Your step by step analysis and descriptions make it possible for anyone to understand and build their own system.
Awesome! Bravo, Sir. Darryl
I was just about to start hooking up all my gear with a pretty clear idea of how it was all going to be laid out. BUT, then I stumbled your set-up! Well, guess what.. I will be using your template to set mine up. Exceptionally well thought out and executed! I'm Very Happy to have come upon and seen your design. Thank You for sharing and All The Best In Your Future Endeavors...
Thank you for your kindness and helping people such as myself with this knowledge. May God bless you and keep you safe!
Fantastic idea and video! The final product is amazing and would be extremely useful in a time of need. Your previous videos were also great ideas and good stepping stones for the final one. I hope that people who view the video take advantage of all the work and effort you put into this project. THANK YOU!
Very nice build, and an excellent presentation. One suggestion I have is to consider the use or addition of thin flexible solar panels, which are very portable and extremely lightweight. Four 100w panels are $340 on Amazon right now and might even fit on the back side of your truck for storage. This would allow solar use somewhere besides at home. Another suggestion would be to add a small built-on bag or pouch to the truck for storing supplies and tools, such as spare fuses, wrench, cheap multimeter, multitool, one 55 gal drum-liner bag to pull over the truck if it rains, etc. (should only add around a pound) Adding a port to attach a generator to top off the batteries would also be a good idea. (and I love the use of power poles, though I would add a 10-15ft 10ga high strand count twin lead power pole jumper and a 1-to-4 power pole distribution block to the bag) I use power poles for my solar cables, though I suppose you went with SAE since that's what the less experienced viewers are likely to use? I use a green shell for + so I don't confuse 12v with > 12v runs.
Great build, I love it. Have you thought about adding just a small LED light panel on the very top so when the power went out at night you can just switch on the LED and be able to see every part of your power generator and not have to go look for a flashlight first?
Great idea sir. Thanks.
IKEA makes a cheap LED Lamp that plugs into a USB outlet.
@@pb5172 this can you make yourself. its just a usb port and LED driver with LED.
Backlight the LEDs
Awesome job. Thanks for sharing. Clear and concise video too!
Thanks tor the kind feedback. Much appreciated.
Excellent job! Very precise and thoughtfully produced video. Gives a realistic viewpoint to construction of a well Fort out project, again thank you
Yes, well done all the way around. Thank you.
Since you are expertise consider 1. the weight is lb, and N these stand for pound, and Newton. Kg or g are mass and cannot make a weight scale go down (up, left, right, back, or forth). You have to have force which is lb or N. If you can figure this out you will have correct definition of current physics. If you can't you will be like the smart members of the world and never have a correct definition of physics as it is currently modeled. Funny for hundreds of years no one has been able to figure this out - I think you can at least think about this as you go about your excellence, otherwise it would not be a comment.
2. the solar panels can be moved during the year so all are nearer optimum - say two to four settings, and simply mount them all the same angle each 3 to 6 months or so whatever your desire to optimize. (whoops this is already in the comments, sorry)
3. I want to go all DC (like Westinghouse?). I use a 2 battery type system to get two 12 V DC circuits from a 28 to 32 V DC panel. This 2 battery system makes 24 V DC circuit as well (That would be the series for batteries, right?, with the single output from the panel) now each battery or 12 V circuit can add a 12 V battery as needed - say 10 to 20 in the extreme. So you have a 1 panel of 28 to 32 V that runs 2, 12V batteries like yours. You get two 12V circuits and 1, 24V circuit, all DC. The 12V is for 'automotive' like you have using cigarette lighter and USB. The 24V circuit is for 18 V drill batteries and 20 V laptop computer batteries - also refrigerators, freezers that have 12 or 24V DC.
I like this system because it can charge batteries or run a 24 V system directly during sun energy. (You have to be careful not to have - radiation at night or discharge batteries at night when radiation goes from ambient night temperature earth to absolute zero universe.) I am trying to get refrigeration with refrigerator and freezer that operate during sun energy and super insulate and hold during non sun energy. I think next step is to avoid batteries somewhat and store the sun energy in water at a higher elevation. So in sun energy the refrigerator and water pump at 24V (or 28 to 32V depending on the type of electrical device that will work in a range without damage to it). Something for you to think about.
I am also making solar heaters by concentrating of just letting the sun energy transfer somehow. There are different ways to do this. But integrating into electric type things is possible for they are all the same thing - energy (remember the gram thing you are going to think about; the gram is actually energy just like charge, foot lb as in water raised to an elevation, etc. All the exact same thing!)
What has also occurred to me is that for large projects you can use several of the 2 battery systems and place the panel and batteries in different locations. Your 2 battery system can do exactly the same thing. So the 2 battery is very versatile.
I don't really want to put 20, 12V batteries in a circuit and another 20, 12V batteries in the circuit next to that for 2, 12V infinite amp hour capacity and add 28 to 32 V solar panels to match. I like the simple 2 battery, 1 panel or in your case 2 battery 4 panel where you are using lower energy panels - same thing. Very good system. Hope to hear more from your channel in the future. Excellent job. Thanks again.
Very comprehensive. It’s interesting to read your thoughts as they introduce a myriad of interesting possibilities. If i was going off-grid permanently in a go-for-broke move, I’d likely integrate quite a bit of your thinking. Thanks for taking the time to articulate all of it.
@@carlostavares6052 wow!
great job. nice video. and a wonderful portable power generator. My daughter called yesterday asking if I had a gas generator as their power has been out since tuesday due to the wind storm in Salt Lake City. I don't have a gas generator but am building my whole house off grid power plant while still connected to the grid for BACKUP. I have had small portable solar generators, but most crap out after a time. So I will add yours as a reference to build a portable one that will allow me to loan to my kids the next time they need help. I saw your fixed panels and that is great. The EPEVER can handle a larger array if you can add some panels over time. In my daughter's case, I thought having an extra set of panels that would be portable and possibly stored. Then I could take the generator and the panels to her house and offer her some power. Great job and 73s
Good video, great information. I will be using your templates to get me started on my own portable unit for my travel trailer. Thank you for taking the time to share your work with others.
This video has been inspirational to my own DIY setup. I simplified the design immensely but implementing the use of the MPP Solar Off-Grid Solar Inverter. An all-in-one MPPT charge controller, pure sine wave inverter, all while supporting grid charging when necessary. The output of the inverter is 800W but meets any needs that I've needed to present. Thank you.
Have you ever thought of adding a wind powered generator to help charge the batteries as well as the solar. Up here in WI we have often have wind on gray days and nights that could supplement the solar.
That would require a hybrid inverter to take the higher voltages of a wind generator as well as things like a dump load, it would increase the size and complexity a bit. It could be done though.
Iʻll probably have to watch this a few times to increase my confidence in taking the first step in a project like this. It does intrigue me as I got to this video from watching your earlier phase. Great job with putting this video and project together. Very clear explanation. I have minimal experience with power generators, but am an avid DIYer and am looking forward to trying something like this to lower my anxieties during the annual hurricane seasons.
The best video I’ve seen so far. Now I can do this! THANK YOU!
Enphase grid-agnostic IQ 8 microinverter
Well done video. Your system is well thought out and cleanly assembled, kudos for that too. I don't know the vintage of your build, but today, 2022, you could use lithium batteries that will draw down further without harm and PV panels with more than double the output in the same foot print. The 2000 watt inverter I purchased is not robust enough to start my 4" angle grinder, because of this, all my other power tools are now battery powered. I will place a larger inverter beside the 2k unit for when I need to draw some serious power.
I'm converting my sailboat from 25 hp diesel to a 10kw electric motor this summer. It will run on 48 volts. About 1200 watts of PV panels is all that will fit. While 3 - 48 volt lithium banks should handle all our needs.
Good luck!
Mate that is absolutely bloody fantastic, really nice work. Thanks heaps for sharing, I just wish I had your electrical prowess, but I will certainly give it a red hot crack. Thanks again and keep up the wicked projects.
Thank you for your time and effort...it gives me the knowledge for having back up (off grid) power. The only thing I may add is putting a lid or board to top of the batteries as to have additional safety for the terminals.
I would add a high current Anderson plug for extra capacity and with that you could also create a secondary battery box with the other end of the high current Anderson plug wtih a jumper cables also so you can easily jump a vehicle in dire need.
Excellent suggestion - I’ll add the high-current Anderson. Thanks for the idea.
Desert Prep you are most welcome and something else to think about for batteries is AGM gel batteries that are used in say power wheelchairs for deep discharge as well
I'm intrigued... please note where you would use an Anderson plug. Thanks.
Excellent project, very professional and clear explanation. We need more videos of this quality on YT.
GREAT VIDEO, am looking to scale down to 1 battery and smaller inverter to save money for now, THANKS. 👍
Your system looks very handy and professional. It is a unique idea to install it all on a hand truck. I have never thought of that myself. However, I think that during the wintertime you should have all the four panels at the same angle as those two are now, perhaps just aiming them a bit higher (more flat). During the summer all those four would still collect as much energy as they do now (2 horizontal + 2 nearly vertical), but during the winter you would get nearly twice as much as with your present installation. Quite often the need for energy is lower during the long summer days when there is not so much lighting needed. Of course, it depends on what else you need that energy for. It is also worth considering using a bit bigger batteries with so big an inverter, which could totally empty your batteries in less than an hour. If you have emptied your batteries and you need to use your gasoline generator for your electricity needs, you could charge your battery bank at the same time, and then a bit bigger charger would come handy also. Thanks anyway for a clear presentation and a unique idea.
Great video ! only upgrades id make would be:
1) Circuit breakers instead of Fuses. Fuses wont be available in shtf scenario.
2) Your large Battery cables ( Pos & Neg ) Cross over each other and that is Never a good idea. i Never cross pos & neg wires because they can rub through the insulation and arc over time or high amperage melt. If absolutely unavoidable use a Split loom covering Between them , install it on the black cable since split loom is black. Or u can use Clear tubing or rubber hose split fown the middle and secure with wire ties for sacrificial rubbing. Otherwise Very Excellent Build ! Im in the Process of a Build Myself. Very similar to yours but different in some ways.
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. Where are you located? Would you consider assembling and shipping this (or all except batteries)? If so pls email me mayagayam at gmail with price. Thank you 🙏🏼
mayagayam@gmail.com
Rosalva Brennan yes? If you meant to call my attention to this post, thank you, yes, I did takes notes on it 🙏💕
Great ideas! But yes Auto Fuses will be everywhere in most cases except in the senario of a EMP. But then his unit will be shot unless (and maybe still) he has an anti EMP tarp over it at time of occurrence.
People got to stop using fuses --- its like using AA batteries. throwing away stuff / polluting planet and buying fuses & AA batteries is so 1980. just flip a circuit breaker and u are going again. no looking for fuses , no throwing them away , saves waste polluting planet. , no buying- save your cash.
There are so many YT's that have covered this subject and I have always finished their video's felling more confused that I was when I started. This one however left me well informed and with the tools to make my own decissions. Thanks for a great video tutorial.
This is for you, and speaking from experience: Make sure that there is an air gap of at least 4" to 6" between the flat solar panels and the roof.
This is for 3 reasons,:
1). the hotter the panel becomes the lower the output that panel produces, so I have 5 (five) 1375 +/-w panels , that produce an average of 1350 to 1390 w each, but when they start to heat up, my panels tend to lose peak power production, and I have friends who have stated the same, "keep your panels cool, and they will keep you happy."
2). when it rains, it pours, enough said; take this to heart, My first system produced right around 7500 to 7800 w in full sun, and 4950 to 5600 w on a mild cloudy day, but after the first major storm, I noticed a significant drop in available wattage, from the standard of taking maybe 2.5 to 3 hrs to charge my battery banks, [28 (6 volt) Kukula (Spanish) deep cycle lead acid/glass mat, sealed batteries, capable of storing 52.4 kilowatts of power] to (after the soaker), now needing 10+ hours to charge my battery bank in full sun. Now, I am not stating that this is 'normal' as it may be just a freak accident (though I have been told that it is becoming quite prevalent, that the manufactures do not correctly seal the frames, and hence allows for water to access the critical parts and cause damage to the module(s).
And finally, 3). Where my solar panels are parked, is prime real-estate, I use the area of my roof to both collect water (water catchment system) and heat my water (solar powered hot water heater, mounted under the panels, and yes the water takes longer to heat up but the space where the panels are, is being used for four other purposes, solar, water catchment, water heating, and all my weather sensors.
So, by raising your panels up 4" to 6" you can save them from damage from rain and water, and keep them cool where their performance will not be diminished due to the heat of the building. (Oh, and by the way, my panels were raised up to the 1 meter mark (3' 3", or 39") and I still have room enough to run other stuff under that area...
.
And now you have a new subscriber, with a thumbs up, I enjoyed the content.
-Birdy
Hey you battery bank usually need 8 hrs to get fully chardged and thats with
10% of chardge power if you hawe that .. to use longer time ..than 8hra
I think somthing is wrong with the math 7500watt can't chardge
52.400watt and yes they can but not in 3 hrs unless the bank is almost full
I haw'e 4 x 4 200A AGM Sonneshine thats 48v 800A
But i need to use 80A to chardge in 8 hrs to go from 10.5v to 14.4v
So i have 3000wattPV x 2 .. 2 60A EPever chardgers
My house is East West .. so i haw'e 3000 x 2 East and 3000 x 2 vest
And 4 60A EPever and going to buy 4 more batteries ..
So i haw'e 48.000Watt but
I still can't chardge faster .. becaus the Chargers von't exceed
Chardge speed .. and i can't in any way get my AGM Deep cycle batteries to absorb
800A in 3 hrs unless ITs LiOn or What ever xcotic fast chardge fast dischardge battery ..
Why i hawe 2 East 2 vest .. so i in any given time on a cloudy Day
Haw atleast 2000watt of the 12.000
And when do you use power ..in the morning and the evening ..
And i go for max batteri juice at night time
Being doing Electronics for over 20 years and found your video to be good. I myself have built a system in case of blackouts. While i do not have a solar option at this time i still can get around 24 hrs out of my 2 120amp hour agm batteries drawing around 350watts.
use it on a need only use, this can last for days. But i do recommend using a battery isolator switch (master switch) that way if something goes wrong you can shut it off.
The system i built is expensive but very basic, that way if a fault does occur it is easy to find and fix. Sometimes simply is best.
I would love to see a version 5 with a DIY LiFePo4 prismatic from CALB. Otherwise great vid !!!!
Looks like a pretty good battery -- 180Ah @12V with 4cells at about 80 lb, and just under $1,000. Not bad.
Thank you for all of the countless hours you have put into researching and building these generators. Question, though... It's now 2022 and I'd imagine it will cost $2K to build this. What is the advantage to building vs buying a similar one for $2500. Thanks again!
We are looking for the same answer... Great video.
I love your setup its beautiful. Great video, very well done, easy to follow. I hope to build one of these myself
Other than a master kill sw, this is a well planed & presented idea. 5-thoughts. One may consider putting one of the batteries (or add a 3-rd) over the axle on the back side of the trk to balance out the weight when transporting. 2, put a removable lid / cover over the top of the batts for protection and to use a as a platform to put / store things. 3, build a holder above the front batts to hold several PV panels during transport. PV's can be removed from the holder, set-up at a remote location while in use then returned to the trk while being transported back to storage. 4, Consider adding the option of a 3-rd locking wheel on the front to roll fully vertical due to weight. 5, Consider adding a flip-up rain-guard or umbrella to cover the unit if a sudden dn pour hits while in use.
I'm going to start this build soon, thank you so much for this, I was looking at having to drop 2k on a yeti1000 and panels and this is far better
How did your build turn out??asking before I purchase everything
THat's where I started -- the commercial units were very expensive and lacked the kind of capacity you can get with DIY.
You are a live saver man. Really should start a company and sell and affordable version of this!!
This is so wonderful, i would seriously love one of these, your powerful in your brain, thank u so much for sharing this great idea
the use of the hand cart is brilliant. that is a nice clean looking unit you have constructed.you can throw a trashcan over it and it is rainproof.
Friggen MacGuyver over here! Well done.
alOL.- Thanks!
Lol the real deal :)
I have setup panels at the respective peak angles like you have. If you put the horizontal panels at the base of the winter angle panels, then the reflected light off the glazing during the non-peaks hits the other panel and increases yield slightly.
Thank you for this I was researching this exact setup for my truck I want to make it portable and part of my SUV something I can take out of the SUV and used anywhere else and the plan is to put my components in my SUV and have another component on the outside of that suv .wiring diagram is perfect.hue from Virginia
Thanks, Hugh. Appreciate the feedback. I’ve been having the same thoughts about building a version for our RV. I think we could nearly eliminate use of the fuel-driven generator. Good luck with your project.
I've been searching for a system that can match my needs. This is a complete, understandable tutorial that will guide me through a build that up until now, seemed too technical. Thank you very much!
Not sure if someone mentioned this but on panels in series you want to have them contributing the same. The panels that get less sun can actually consume power i believe. A while ago i read that solar panels that are partially blocked can get to act like a diode or series resistance and thats no bueno.
Im really just a arm chair expert here, but it may be something worth checking out?
I think you’re onto an important aspect of the design that affects its capability. I’m currently measuring the solar production of the panels themselves, looking at tilt angle dirt, wiring configuration, shade, etc. I’ll post a video soon with the results...
Desert Prep I think you'll be fine, I've seen other people on youtube do a panel for dawn, for afternoon, and dusk. You can really lengthen the day this way but you lose amps. It's better to have longer run times I think.
Failed/dark panels basically become resistors, and will really drag down the charge current. The solution is to stick a bypass diode in parallel with the panel, if there isn't one already.
Panels have blocking diodes built in that only allow power to flow in one direction...
Solar panels are one way power silly.
Well my first comment is that was the best narration I have a "how to" I've ever heard in my life. The only things I think I would have added is an enclosure. A large aluminum project box. With an enclosure it probably would need a couple cooling fans but I think aesthetically, and functionally, and enclosure would provide it with some necessary protection. Perhaps with a couple lexan windows to see the inside. Then Mount your sockets and switches to the enclosure.
I think I would have replaced the dolly. I probably would have assembled a dolly from high-strength schedule 40 PVC to cut down on weight and maximize spatial efficiency.
Maybe adding some friction locking hinged arms that move in x-y axis with pistons on the y-axis to add portability to the solar panels.
I know weight is a concern but if you can fabricate the dolly it would save a ton of weight. Those things are pretty heavy.
Otherwise, much better than I could have ever fabricated. Outstanding job. I think you broke the internet with this one.
Awesome explanation. Great documentary voice . You could make money with that voice lol .