Very nice. You sold me on the solder. I've used colored sharpies to color wire. I read somewhere where they used larger solder for custom headers. I tried drilling out a couple distributors and it didn't work to well. Even after cutting the nubs down. Gonna head to amazon for some solder shopping. Thanks again. Just subscribed and look forward to checking out your channel.
Thank you very much. The .3mm solder is great for plug wires, fuel lines, and brake lines. If you want, .8mm solder is perfect for heater hose and PCV lines as well as brake booster line. Then there's the big stuff from Home depot. That is good for exhausts and headers.
Hey Mark, lookin' good buddy. Darn looks real! Like the 'dash'! I really enjoy these How To videos. I collect them in my 'library'. I tend to collect all of your stuff. You have your own "Grandpa Mark's" list in my library! I reckon this Mustang will look fantastic when done.too, so I'll leave you to it mate, & I'll catch ya soon. Take care my friend.
This is a great building tip. I'm currently looking on Amazon for something cheaper. Definitely giving this a go. Thanks for the video and all the awesome unboxing videos
Of course, thumbs up! I have an old model that I might try and add the spark plug wires as this will so finish it! Thanks for passing on your knowledge!
Great idea using the solder, and great tutorial, thank you! Amazon has a single spool of #30 multi-colored wires that works well too. I use a tiny (3/4" diameter) die grinder/dremel tool (around $20) to drill holes with those tiny bits. It works great and I break fewer of them than by using my fingers. I got the idea after learning that those tiny bits were made to be used at high speed. If you are interested and can't find the wire or die grinder let me know, I should be able to find them easily in my purchase history.
Thank you very much. I really like the solder because it is so forgiving and stays where you put it. LOL. I do have some AWG 32 wire that I use for very small things. I'll look for that die grinder. I've been wanting to get a small rechargeable one for a while now.
Hello Mark. I’ve spent some time looking at your MANY excellent videos. This one is no exception. Thank you very much for all your efforts. Incidentally, you’ve already built my next build the Revell ‘67 Covette. I’m looking forward to trying my hand at detailing the engine and interior.
First off, thank you for following along. Now That 67 is a great kit. The interior is molded in such a way that if you paint the dash like I did it will work out very well. I highly recommend that kit.
Nice, been using solder for years. Its number one benefit is that it bends so easily. With harder wire you glue one end and try to route the other and the brittle super glue snaps right off.
Thank you very much. I often add other things to the engines, but those go on after all of these wires and hoses. Most other engines have a brake booster line, and PCV lines (use the same solder as the heater hoses) And since you have all those cut ends from the solder you can quickly make a dipstick from one of them. I have a quick video on that too. Enjoy it's not hard at all.
Useful video.and i will try it. I never thing to use soldier wire. I was looking for internet wire and fishing line but it was not exactly the look i wanted. The most important is the way to bend it properly. Thank for that
I've been using solder for about three years now. Until I found it I gave up on wiring the plugs. Nothing looked right. Now I use it for all kinds of things. It stays where you put it and it paints so well. The plug wires are .3mm solder the heater hoses are .8mm Enjoy.
I usually do 3 mist coats first, then one or two heavy coats. Let them dry all the way before you add the next. Practice on something old first. It takes a few times to get the feel of it.
I ordered the 0.3 - 1.2 mm and the 1.1 - 2.0 mm pin drill bits set, the 3 mm solder, and the 32 AWG magnetic wire from your links. That kind of info is very helpful. I’d like to see a link to your source for Tamiya acrylic paint, unless it’s Amazon. Im trying to avoid the $2.99 per each 23ml jar.
Fantastic tutorial, thank you, and I love your jovial sense of humor. After you brush the paint on the wires and you bend them back and forth, the dried paint doesn’t flake or chip off?
Thank you very much. I use Tamiya's acrylic paints and it stays on great. I will need to go back and touch up here and there, but that's mostly because I scratch it with the tweezers or something like that. It really does not flake off at all. something about the solder holds the paint very well, and makes super glue dry VERY Quickly.
Hi, so I just watched your video,interesting, I had bought aftermarket wire, but I think your idea is so much better. So I will order the solder and pin drill things from Amazon. ONE question, how the heck do you drill out the distributor, it’s driving me crazy, can you tell me how you do it? Thanks!
Thank you very much for watching my video. I think you will like working with the solder so much more than wire. Now if you remember I start by putting the wires in the heads. Then I bend them around and run them to the distributor. I never drilled out the distributor. I just bring the wires up close to the pins and call it good. When you are done and there's nine wires all packed around that distributor no one will ever be the wiser. Now if you want to have holes (I have done this a few times) take your snips and cut the tabs off the distributor. Then with a lighter and a dental tool (From the Dollar Store) you heat up the tip of the dental tool (not cherry, but close) then take it and push down on what is left of the tab on the distributor. Let it sit for just a second or two, then give the dental tool a twist to brake it loose and you have a nice little dimple to put the solder into. Then once you get the wire run the way you want pull it up just a smidge and with a toothpick put a dab on the end of the wire. Put that back into the dimple and hold it for just a second. One nice thing about the solder is it will hold it's shape with almost no deflection. The .3mm is handy as heck for so many things (carb linkage, brake and fuel lines, battery cables, and even piping around the seats if you get really ambitious) If you like that then the next thing you want to add is the .8mm solder and you can do heater hoses, and pcv lines, and break booster line. Anyway I hope this helps, if not let me know here or on Facebook at GrandpaMark's Hobbies group page. Have a great weekend.
I always use Tamiya's Acrylic paints, and never gloss. The paint does not flake off at all. It will scratch here and there when I manhandle it with the tweezers, but for the most part it holds very well. Once I get all the wires run I'll go back if needed and touch them up again.
I'm going to wire my 50 Olds custom. It's the first time I've added spark plug wires. I'm going ti try and do the fuel lines for the tri carb set up. Wish me luck! lol
Heck, there's no luck needed, you can do it. If you are going to do that, you can do a dip stick too. It's super easy and you'll already have the extra solder from your wires. Check out my How To Make a dipstick video. It's super small but adds a lot of cool detail too.
@@grandpamarkshobbies Thanks Mark. I asked this before I finished watching the video where you talked a bit about that. By the way, that video was great! Kept everything in frame too. LOL
@@grandpamarkshobbies I'll bet it's a challenge in itself ! LOL Thanks man! I am thinking about going to the solder route. Would you please use your micrometer to measure that heater hose solder. I don't get out much so I would have to order it on line like most, I should say, ALL my stuff. Sucks having this bad right leg and owning nothing but stick shift vehicles. Everyone seems to be too busy to cart me around unless it's to the doctors. Then they are in a hurry to do something else, no time to go anyplace else. I'll steal the line "I get no respect ! " LOL Thanks again man :)
The radiator hose, PVC lines, and brake booster lines I use the same solder. It is .8mm Most radiator hose is 5/8" Which is 3/4" outside diameter. Figuring 1/24th scale that would make it .79mm which in my book is as close as you can get to .8mm. Now for my battery cables, spark plug wires, brake lines, and fuel lines I use the .3mm solder.
I was cracking up last night when I watched the video and saw that. It sure seems like it's heavier than 1 pound. LOL My other solder is .3mm here's the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M5XDKFG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
It is not clear that there are holes in the top of the distributor. Except for buying aftermarket ones, I have never seen them with holes in the distributor. I have tediously drilled a distributor myself and it is very hard to do. Any elaboration would help. And paint the engine a light color so we can see the detail, please.
When I have a distributor that does not have holes in them I trim off the nubs almost all the way. Then with a dollar store dental tool (Metal hooked one) I'll heat it up just enough to put a divot in the plastic nub that I left. That gives a good place to land the wires. Then I run the wire from the head to the distributor, and get it where I want it. Then with just a small dab of CA glue on the end of the wire I will land it in the divot. The glue will hold it nicely and there's no drilling. (I started doing this after I made this video or I'd put it in here) To get the heat where it works practice on some extra sprue. You will quickly get the feel for it and it's WAY easier than drilling. This engine was in a build for a friend so I had to paint it factory.
![How to Learn Logical Redstone [Full Guide]](/img/1.gif)
You just got yourself a new subscription buddy excellent work man I've been building since I've been saving so I can relate to what you're doing.
Thank you very much. You just made my day.
Very nice. You sold me on the solder. I've used colored sharpies to color wire. I read somewhere where they used larger solder for custom headers. I tried drilling out a couple distributors and it didn't work to well. Even after cutting the nubs down. Gonna head to amazon for some solder shopping. Thanks again. Just subscribed and look forward to checking out your channel.
Thank you very much. The .3mm solder is great for plug wires, fuel lines, and brake lines. If you want, .8mm solder is perfect for heater hose and PCV lines as well as brake booster line. Then there's the big stuff from Home depot. That is good for exhausts and headers.
Their is a lot of model creators but I like your style the most.
Wow, you just made my day. Thank you very much.
Hey Mark, lookin' good buddy. Darn looks real! Like the 'dash'! I really enjoy these How To videos. I collect them in my 'library'. I tend to collect all of your stuff. You have your own "Grandpa Mark's" list in my library! I reckon this Mustang will look fantastic when done.too, so I'll leave you to it mate, & I'll catch ya soon. Take care my friend.
You know that you just made my day right? Thank you very much.
This is a great building tip. I'm currently looking on Amazon for something cheaper. Definitely giving this a go. Thanks for the video and all the awesome unboxing videos
Thank you very much. Hey, I just shot 2 more unboxing videos last night. I plan on posting one of them Monday or Tuesday.
Of course, thumbs up! I have an old model that I might try and add the spark plug wires as this will so finish it! Thanks for passing on your knowledge!
Awesome!! You made my day telling me this. Let me know how it goes.
@@grandpamarkshobbies will do!
Great idea using the solder, and great tutorial, thank you!
Amazon has a single spool of #30 multi-colored wires that works well too.
I use a tiny (3/4" diameter) die grinder/dremel tool (around $20) to drill holes with those tiny bits. It works great and I break fewer of them than by using my fingers. I got the idea after learning that those tiny bits were made to be used at high speed. If you are interested and can't find the wire or die grinder let me know, I should be able to find them easily in my purchase history.
Thank you very much. I really like the solder because it is so forgiving and stays where you put it. LOL. I do have some AWG 32 wire that I use for very small things. I'll look for that die grinder. I've been wanting to get a small rechargeable one for a while now.
@@grandpamarkshobbies,The wire stays put too. It has a copper core. Take care and have a great day!
Ohh cool. The spool I have is stranded and it just won't stay put.
Hello Mark. I’ve spent some time looking at your MANY excellent videos. This one is no exception. Thank you very much for all your efforts. Incidentally, you’ve already built my next build the Revell ‘67 Covette. I’m looking forward to trying my hand at detailing the engine and interior.
First off, thank you for following along. Now That 67 is a great kit. The interior is molded in such a way that if you paint the dash like I did it will work out very well. I highly recommend that kit.
Great idea using the solder. Seems to be very easy to work with.
It sure is. It was a game changer for me.
Mark, A great tutorial. I am going to start using .3 solder as opposed to the 28 GA. wire I am currently using. Thanks for the link for the solder.
You are very welcome. I know you will like it a lot more. It's so much easier to work with.
Nice, been using solder for years. Its number one benefit is that it bends so easily. With harder wire you glue one end and try to route the other and the brittle super glue snaps right off.
For sure. And I'm not sure why, but CA glue dries so fast on it.
Wow thanks for the great video. Biggest takeaway I got was the whole sequence approach u did for all wires thanks again
Thank you very much. I often add other things to the engines, but those go on after all of these wires and hoses. Most other engines have a brake booster line, and PCV lines (use the same solder as the heater hoses) And since you have all those cut ends from the solder you can quickly make a dipstick from one of them. I have a quick video on that too. Enjoy it's not hard at all.
Useful video.and i will try it. I never thing to use soldier wire. I was looking for internet wire and fishing line but it was not exactly the look i wanted. The most important is the way to bend it properly.
Thank for that
I've been using solder for about three years now. Until I found it I gave up on wiring the plugs. Nothing looked right. Now I use it for all kinds of things. It stays where you put it and it paints so well. The plug wires are .3mm solder the heater hoses are .8mm Enjoy.
Wow. You even do the correct firing order. Nice.
I started out that way, but I think it drifted just a bit. LOL
Mark once again a great video, Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much.
That came out amazing great job.
Thank you very much.
Great tutorial. Thanks for being a good instructor.
Thank you very much, I'm glad you liked it.
Looks really nice!
Thank you very much.
Awesome job. Thank you for taking the time.
Thank you very much.
Looks great...question on the clear, you sais several light coats then heavy...can u suggest amount of coats?
T.Y
I usually do 3 mist coats first, then one or two heavy coats. Let them dry all the way before you add the next. Practice on something old first. It takes a few times to get the feel of it.
Thanks for a great tutorial.
Larry Landis
You are very welcome.
Great video Mark!
Thank you very much.
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much.
Great job Mark!!!!!....✌️🙂
Thank you very much.
Great video
Thank you very much.
I ordered the 0.3 - 1.2 mm and the 1.1 - 2.0 mm pin drill bits set, the 3 mm solder, and the 32 AWG magnetic wire from your links. That kind of info is very helpful. I’d like to see a link to your source for Tamiya acrylic paint, unless it’s Amazon. Im trying to avoid the $2.99 per each 23ml jar.
That is awesome. I do get my Tamiya paint from Amazon. There's nothing around here where I can get it.
Great video Mark! Ive been using phone wire, which works. However not as easily as the Soldier. Im switching🙂
Just wait till you use the solder. It is so much better all around.
Very informative.
Thank you very much
Fantastic tutorial, thank you, and I love your jovial sense of humor. After you brush the paint on the wires and you bend them back and forth, the dried paint doesn’t flake or chip off?
Thank you very much. I use Tamiya's acrylic paints and it stays on great. I will need to go back and touch up here and there, but that's mostly because I scratch it with the tweezers or something like that. It really does not flake off at all. something about the solder holds the paint very well, and makes super glue dry VERY Quickly.
Hi, so I just watched your video,interesting, I had bought aftermarket wire, but I think your idea is so much better. So I will order the solder and pin drill things from Amazon. ONE question, how the heck do you drill out the distributor, it’s driving me crazy, can you tell me how you do it? Thanks!
Thank you very much for watching my video. I think you will like working with the solder so much more than wire. Now if you remember I start by putting the wires in the heads. Then I bend them around and run them to the distributor. I never drilled out the distributor. I just bring the wires up close to the pins and call it good. When you are done and there's nine wires all packed around that distributor no one will ever be the wiser. Now if you want to have holes (I have done this a few times) take your snips and cut the tabs off the distributor. Then with a lighter and a dental tool (From the Dollar Store) you heat up the tip of the dental tool (not cherry, but close) then take it and push down on what is left of the tab on the distributor. Let it sit for just a second or two, then give the dental tool a twist to brake it loose and you have a nice little dimple to put the solder into. Then once you get the wire run the way you want pull it up just a smidge and with a toothpick put a dab on the end of the wire. Put that back into the dimple and hold it for just a second.
One nice thing about the solder is it will hold it's shape with almost no deflection. The .3mm is handy as heck for so many things (carb linkage, brake and fuel lines, battery cables, and even piping around the seats if you get really ambitious) If you like that then the next thing you want to add is the .8mm solder and you can do heater hoses, and pcv lines, and break booster line. Anyway I hope this helps, if not let me know here or on Facebook at GrandpaMark's Hobbies group page. Have a great weekend.
Very nice
Thank you very much.
Looks fantastic great job
Lately I've been pinning my headers with .020 wire I could never get them to stay put
Thank you very much.
Looks cool.
Thank you very much
Great vid!!!! 🤜🤛
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
Literally Amazing!!!
Heck, with some solder and a roll of black tape there ain't nothing we can't do. LOL
I would have thought the paint would flake off from the bending . Do you do something to make it flexible???
I always use Tamiya's Acrylic paints, and never gloss. The paint does not flake off at all. It will scratch here and there when I manhandle it with the tweezers, but for the most part it holds very well. Once I get all the wires run I'll go back if needed and touch them up again.
I'm going to wire my 50 Olds custom. It's the first time I've added spark plug wires. I'm going ti try and do the fuel lines for the tri carb set up. Wish me luck! lol
Heck, there's no luck needed, you can do it. If you are going to do that, you can do a dip stick too. It's super easy and you'll already have the extra solder from your wires. Check out my How To Make a dipstick video. It's super small but adds a lot of cool detail too.
You can also buy those pin vice bits at Harbor Freight.
I'll have to stop in there and check them out.
harber fright has the pin vese
Yes they do.
Hey Mark - Just a silly question - Will the paint crack when bending the plug wires? Or do you have to be super careful?
I use Tamiya flat paint and it does not crack. It will scratch a little bit if you get rough with the tweezers, but you can touch it up quick.
@@grandpamarkshobbies Thanks Mark. I asked this before I finished watching the video where you talked a bit about that. By the way, that video was great! Kept everything in frame too. LOL
Thank you so much. I've been working so hard to keep everything in focus and in frame. Sometimes it's hard to do. LOL
@@grandpamarkshobbies I'll bet it's a challenge in itself ! LOL Thanks man!
I am thinking about going to the solder route. Would you please use your micrometer to measure that heater hose solder. I don't get out much so I would have to order it on line like most, I should say, ALL my stuff. Sucks having this bad right leg and owning nothing but stick shift vehicles. Everyone seems to be too busy to cart me around unless it's to the doctors. Then they are in a hurry to do something else, no time to go anyplace else. I'll steal the line "I get no respect ! " LOL
Thanks again man :)
The radiator hose, PVC lines, and brake booster lines I use the same solder. It is .8mm Most radiator hose is 5/8" Which is 3/4" outside diameter. Figuring 1/24th scale that would make it .79mm which in my book is as close as you can get to .8mm. Now for my battery cables, spark plug wires, brake lines, and fuel lines I use the .3mm solder.
But did you remember to set the points.
Yeah buddy, 17 thousandths and 30 degrees. . . I love that torque. LOL This cracked me up big time.
On the label, it says 1lb.😂 Very informative mark. Thanks for sharing. Are you sure the other solder is .03mm?
I was cracking up last night when I watched the video and saw that. It sure seems like it's heavier than 1 pound. LOL My other solder is .3mm here's the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M5XDKFG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
It is not clear that there are holes in the top of the distributor. Except for buying aftermarket ones, I have never seen them with holes in the distributor. I have tediously drilled a distributor myself and it is very hard to do. Any elaboration would help. And paint the engine a light color so we can see the detail, please.
When I have a distributor that does not have holes in them I trim off the nubs almost all the way. Then with a dollar store dental tool (Metal hooked one) I'll heat it up just enough to put a divot in the plastic nub that I left. That gives a good place to land the wires. Then I run the wire from the head to the distributor, and get it where I want it. Then with just a small dab of CA glue on the end of the wire I will land it in the divot. The glue will hold it nicely and there's no drilling. (I started doing this after I made this video or I'd put it in here) To get the heat where it works practice on some extra sprue. You will quickly get the feel for it and it's WAY easier than drilling. This engine was in a build for a friend so I had to paint it factory.
File the tips down before you drill they are usually wider at bottom.
Ford is 1234 down left side 5678 down the right side
Thank you. Leave it to me to mess that up. LOL
Cool tutorial Thanks
Thank you very much.
Be careful not to use Lead Solder, its not safe to handle.
Thank you. I try and get paint on it as soon as possible to encapsulate the led.