Here's What a 172,000 Mile E46 BMW M3 Looks Like Underneath
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
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Even though this is the second video of the M3 saga, it's really the first. In this video the M3 story begins when I bought a one way ticket to Orlando to help deliver the car to Chad back in New Jersey. We got Tavarish's help to check out the car before I took it on a semi long road trip, and he gave us a lot of good insight on the E46 BMW M3s as we crawled around and underneath the car. After a cursory inspection I went on my way to deliver the car and to capture my thoughts.
Major thanks to Tavarish for helping us out on this journey. Make sure you check out and subscribe to his channel: / tavarish
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for about two and half years of owning it here's what actually "failed" rather than "preventitive maintenance"
Valve cover Gasket a.k.a. VCG (pretty common, easy and cheap fix if you do it yourself. takes about an 1-2hrs depending on your familiarity with the steps.)
Constant Pressure Valve a.k.a. CPV (I knew about this leak when I bought it, pretty common, cheap part either 50bucks for the whole valve or just replace the O-ring for under 99cents, Labor wise its just a Pain in the ass specially when you have the OEM headers, very tight space there but its possible to do it w/ removing headers, just very hard to get there unless you got skinny arms and small hands).
Front Control Arm Bushing a.k.a. FCAB (Again, EASY to do and pretty cheap as well, takes maybe an hour to do. One side of mine failed and replaced both side)
Vanos High pressure line (not sure what else this thing is called, it started leaking and this time I had a shop do the job, can't remember the price from the shop but the part itself is no more than 150bucks and if you DIY its actually pretty easy as well, I just didn't have tools at the time since I was out of town and they discovered it while doing an oil change and asked me if I wanted it fixed).
Overflow line from upper radiator hose to the expansion tank. (VERY EASY to fix, simple pull out the old one, and put in the new one. ESPECIALLY if you have removed all your fan shrouds already like I did. Part cost less than 30bucks or if the upper radiator hose connector is salvageable you can cut and put in a hose there yourself and use zip tie/ clamp to hold it down. Again easy and cheap fix).
Rear Differential Bushings (Mine failed about 4-5months ago? it was the original factory bushings so its kind of expected for it to fail, the fact it lasted 160k miles before failing is pretty amazing. polyurethane part cost about a hundred bucks, but difficulty of installation especially if you are by your self is very very hard. 7/10 in terms of difficulty and if you don't have the bushing installation/removal tool it gets worst. its not impossible to do it yourself but be sure to have someone to lift up/down the differential with you as that thing weights like 100+ lbs and you're trying to manuever it at weird angle to get it down/up. Can be done in a day if you got the proper tool and knowledge/experience but if you are like me and my buddy who had somewhat had experience with it, it took 2 days to do it, first day removing the stuff including diff and second day putting it all back on.)
Center carrier Bearing (This one failed early 2017, it was still the factory one as well so not surprised as well that it failed as I drive pretty enthusiastically LOL. cheap parts I replaced the carrier bearing and the guibo together since I am down there anyways. easy DIY as well and it makes a lot easier with help when putting things back together.)
water pump (water pump started leaking at its seal when spinning, very small leak and I could have probably just lived with it but it makes my engine bay look dirty after a week or two. part can either be really cheap like 80bucks or if you go OEM its 300bucks, Rein or Saleri pumps cost somewhere around 120-150bucks and they are good parts. if you're doing this might as well replace the thermostat which is about 50bucks, and all gaskets and o-rings which is about 10bucks total. Labor is very easy but time consuming. If you're like me who have no fan shroud nor clutch fan anymore as I switched to SPAL fan. replacing the water pump will take about 1.5hrs at most since the pump is easily accesible at the top if there was no shroud installed but if the shrouds are still there that makes the time go up by half hour to an hour. easy DIY but time consuming, relatively cheap parts as well.)
These are the only ones that actually FAILED on me.
other things I've done just because I wanted to do them, Rear Trailing arm Bushing (RTAB), Valve timing adjustment, cooling system (CSF radiator, thermostat and belts and hoses), Airlift Suspension w/ suspension re-enforcement, Fuel filter and more that I can't remember.
If you're gonna buy one, have it PPI'd (Pre-purchase inspection) by a shop that KNOWS the e46 chassis. Have the subframe floor checked if there's signs of cracks as this is a VERY common problem especially any models under 2003.5 (google it) and even models after 2003.5 can still have it but not as prone/bad as previous year models. even if the car has been "re-enforced" on the sub frame they can crack around the re-enforcement plates itself unless they installed something like "vince bar re-enforcement" (google it or look for it at m3forum.net).
if the car has high mileage (100k+) have the oil analyzed (google blackstone analysis) to see if the copper contaminants is within limits or getting close to limit, if so ROD bearings needs to be replaced which would cost somewhere around 2.3k to 3k parts and labor and if you're replacing it might as well get the WPC treated rod bearings as they are more durable than OEM. Check if valve timing adjustment has been done especially if the car has over 65k miles.
CPV oil leak is very common as well, don't get discouraged buying a car with CPV leak as its very very common.
Rust isn't much of an issue but if the car came from a rust prone place, you need to check right around where the jack pads are underneath the plastic covers, try to push the metal part under the covers and if you hear any creaking noise, that's most likely rust. but it's not common to see rust problems on the e46 m3.
There's vanos issue which the vanos exhaust hub tabs breaks and would cause a rattle sound as well as bolts getting loose and dropping and would cause the same sound. a new cryo treated vanos exhaust hub cost 900bucks and a used cryo treated cost 600bucks, but these cryo treated parts are MUCH MUCH durable than the non cryo treated, so far no reports of any of them that have failed.
Another vanos issue is vanos solenoid pack, if there's a leak up front right on top its the vanos plate and replacing the O-rings are easy and cheap. but if it manages to ruin the solenoid it can be costly, as high as 750bucks for the part, the up side is that its easy to do the replacement, 5 bolts out I think remove the solenoid pack and put new one in.
I am probably missing other stuff but I've rambled way too long already... (I just noticed how long my response already is LOL) anyways the car is very reliable as long as you do the preventitive maintenance and cost is not that different on normal cars as long as you DIY otherwise LABOR cost will kill you.
Just bought an e46 m3. This write-up is exactly what I needed. Thanks man.
Post this on m3forum ;)
thats worst than cancer
😃
My M3 has 362 000km. Runs amazing. No oil burning issue. Had to do the common sub frame issue. Fixed all the common oil leaks. Very reliable car. Rad and all hoses are still stock. Expansion tank replaced. All bushings are polyurethane. Heater FSR and blower motor changed. Other than that car has been amazing through summer hard driving and an amazing car in the winter for a RWD. I still love my m3. Ppl make it sound more bad than the car really is.
don't you have rust issues if you drive it in winter?
Facts, same here
That's true my friend. Very reliable car especially if you are a person that take care a car like this.
People who says bad things about m3s maybe they can't afford one and are jealous
Literally what I was thinking when he was ragging on it for needing the tow hook cover off .. thats never been something that's happened to me and mine's clocking 140k. I wouldn't say it's a cheap car to maintain, but if you do the simple jobs yourself it's manageable and the car is reliable.
good to hear this Bruce. What about the head gasket and rod bearings? Are they still the same at 362,000 kms?
197k on my e46. Expansion tank just cracked. $40 later and 10 min of labor it should be back to running like a champ. Saying it's unreliable is something I can't relate to. Looking forward to this project.
And THAT! is the perspective one should naturally have or develop when viewing and interacting in this wicked world... Nothing is impossible - reasonably, realistically speaking, other than the limitations you place on yourself or allow others to straddle upon you.
Bigups, mate. Great attitude.
197k here too 02 330xi
6social 6path6 great comment
It was great having you! Come back anytime!
Tavarish I feel like some weird stalker because I only clicked this video because I seen the garage and wondered why it looked familiar
Great work guys, that's a super fresh m3. 10k could bring that car back to the glory days! Tarvaris I'm really interested in picking up a SL couple.
Tavarish m3 is the best looking car in that driveway then the supra..that mercedez is trash so is the aston martin straight garbage
Wow, this M3 is hella rough! Makes me appreciate mine that much more. Good luck with the project guys. I absolutely love mine. Can't count how many hours I've spent wrenching on her, and money that I've thrown at her, but the driving experience makes it all worth it.
since you have an M3 i have a question? how much is your insurance per month? and of course with that, what state you live?
you pay $108 per month?? i am assuming you have a clean record then? i pay $113 a month for comprehensive coverage on a "03 330i with Allstate
awesome dude, subbed.
love this series
+Peter Peters Thanks!
Just sub'd. I've got an 05 e46 M3, looking forward to seeing more content.
Welcome pdpmojo! Thanks for the sub. Can't wait to bring you more content on this car.
-Gregson
Congrats on the E46M. An interior refresh would really bring this one up to par. The Dove interiors show up on the forums quite often, so you should be able to find a nice replacement for not a lot of money. Or you could go all out and swap in an imola or cinnamon interior 😀
Tavarish - loved that step brothers reference. Very well done.
did you check for rear subframe cracking?
14:12
Love the car, E46 M3's is my favorite BMW (LSB in paricular) and there's something about it in white, so pure! Great rims too, M colored stripes on the fender/hood would be my first mod!
Thanks Dude!
"Eaten out by guys" LOL
Bit oily under the gearbox. Helps keep rust at bay
I bought mine last year in Savannah GA and drove it 1200 miles to TX. 198k miles. 03 smg, slicktop and under 4K:-)
Own a bmw 325ci with over 180000 miles and a 2008 328i with over 127000 on the clock as long as you don't abuse them and do your oil changes and original parts when needed this little cars run a pretty long time and you buy bmw because they are fun to drive and even after so many years they still look amazing 😎
Sort the mirror if it leaks will destroy your greashift / centre console trime. Had to replace mine a few years back.
Subbed because of the E46 NA
that car is rough...
Mine has 164k now and its nowhere near that rough... not even close... my interior was clean and looks new and you can't say its a garage queen coz it has 164k on it!
The front is understandable to a point, mine is peppered with rock chips but nothing major, just the paint which is easy fix.
I still have the ORIGINAL expansion tank, its the only thing that hasn't failed/no signs of failing LOL. it still looks new.
I switched to CSF radiator, Mishimoto hoses. I do recently have a coolant leak around either the pump or thermostat area which should be a o-ring or the gasket which cost really cheap.
But to be fair, my car has been in San diego all its life (first owner owned it for 6kmiles, then the second owner got it til 100k and then I bought it, and it was Dealer maintained before I got it).
had it PPI'd and no major issue came up except for the normal CPV leak (again cheap fix but Pain in the ass to do), subframe points are clean no signs of crack that can be seen and recently just replaced the rear diff bushing and still no signs of cracking although it would be adviseable to re-enforce it with vince bar.
erickrayos 125k on my 04 and the interior looks nothing like this one. I agree, this car is a bit rough but hopefully the owner can bring it back to life.
Ditto, 126k on my 51 plate cabrio and like most UK cars I've seen, the interior has been looked after and always scrubs up well!
erickrayos hey is their any other issues you’ve had with it? I’m thinking about getting one but I’m scared of getting one because of the potential costs of fixing stuff lol :/
for about two and half years of owning it here's what actually "failed" rather than "preventitive maintenance"
Valve cover Gasket a.k.a. VCG (pretty common, easy and cheap fix if you do it yourself. takes about an 1-2hrs depending on your familiarity with the steps.)
Constant Pressure Valve a.k.a. CPV (I knew about this leak when I bought it, pretty common, cheap part either 50bucks for the whole valve or just replace the O-ring for under 99cents, Labor wise its just a Pain in the ass specially when you have the OEM headers, very tight space there but its possible to do it w/o removing headers, just very hard to get there unless you got skinny arms and small hands).
Front Control Arm Bushing a.k.a. FCAB (Again, EASY to do and pretty cheap as well, takes maybe an hour to do. One side of mine failed and replaced both side)
Vanos High pressure line (not sure what else this thing is called, it started leaking and this time I had a shop do the job, can't remember the price from the shop but the part itself is no more than 150bucks and if you DIY its actually pretty easy as well, I just didn't have tools at the time since I was out of town and they discovered it while doing an oil change and asked me if I wanted it fixed).
Overflow line from upper radiator hose to the expansion tank. (VERY EASY to fix, simple pull out the old one, and put in the new one. ESPECIALLY if you have removed all your fan shrouds already like I did. Part cost less than 30bucks or if the upper radiator hose connector is salvageable you can cut and put in a hose there yourself and use zip tie/ clamp to hold it down. Again easy and cheap fix).
Rear Differential Bushings (Mine failed about 4-5months ago? it was the original factory bushings so its kind of expected for it to fail, the fact it lasted 160k miles before failing is pretty amazing. polyurethane part cost about a hundred bucks, but difficulty of installation especially if you are by your self is very very hard. 7/10 in terms of difficulty and if you don't have the bushing installation/removal tool it gets worst. its not impossible to do it yourself but be sure to have someone to lift up/down the differential with you as that thing weights like 100+ lbs and you're trying to manuever it at weird angle to get it down/up. Can be done in a day if you got the proper tool and knowledge/experience but if you are like me and my buddy who had somewhat had experience with it, it took 2 days to do it, first day removing the stuff including diff and second day putting it all back on.)
Center carrier Bearing (This one failed early 2017, it was still the factory one as well so not surprised as well that it failed as I drive pretty enthusiastically LOL. cheap parts I replaced the carrier bearing and the guibo together since I am down there anyways. easy DIY as well and it makes a lot easier with help when putting things back together.)
water pump (water pump started leaking at its seal when spinning, very small leak and I could have probably just lived with it but it makes my engine bay look dirty after a week or two. part can either be really cheap like 80bucks or if you go OEM its 300bucks, Rein or Saleri pumps cost somewhere around 120-150bucks and they are good parts. if you're doing this might as well replace the thermostat which is about 50bucks, and all gaskets and o-rings which is about 10bucks total. Labor is very easy but time consuming. If you're like me who have no fan shroud nor clutch fan anymore as I switched to SPAL fan. replacing the water pump will take about 1.5hrs at most since the pump is easily accesible at the top if there was no shroud installed but if the shrouds are still there that makes the time go up by half hour to an hour. easy DIY but time consuming, relatively cheap parts as well.)
These are the only ones that actually FAILED on me.
other things I've done just because I wanted to do them, Rear Trailing arm Bushing (RTAB), Valve timing adjustment, cooling system (CSF radiator, thermostat and belts and hoses), Airlift Suspension w/ suspension re-enforcement, Fuel filter and more that I can't remember.
If you're gonna buy one, have it PPI'd (Pre-purchase inspection) by a shop that KNOWS the e46 chassis. Have the subframe floor checked if there's signs of cracks as this is a VERY common problem especially any models under 2003.5 (google it) and even models after 2003.5 can still have it but not as prone/bad as previous year models. even if the car has been "re-enforced" on the sub frame they can crack around the re-enforcement plates itself unless they installed something like "vince bar re-enforcement" (google it or look for it at m3forum.net).
if the car has high mileage (100k+) have the oil analyzed (google blackstone analysis) to see if the copper contaminants is within limits or getting close to limit, if so ROD bearings needs to be replaced which would cost somewhere around 2.3k to 3k parts and labor and if you're replacing it might as well get the WPC treated rod bearings as they are more durable than OEM. Check if valve timing adjustment has been done especially if the car has over 65k miles.
CPV oil leak is very common as well, don't get discouraged buying a car with CPV leak as its very very common.
Rust isn't much of an issue but if the car came from a rust prone place, you need to check right around where the jack pads are underneath the plastic covers, try to push the metal part under the covers and if you hear any creaking noise, that's most likely rust. but it's not common to see rust problems on the e46 m3.
There's vanos issue which the vanos exhaust hub tabs breaks and would cause a rattle sound as well as bolts getting loose and dropping and would cause the same sound. a new cryo treated vanos exhaust hub cost 900bucks and a used cryo treated cost 600bucks, but these cryo treated parts are MUCH MUCH durable than the non cryo treated, so far no reports of any of them that have failed.
Another vanos issue is vanos solenoid pack, if there's a leak up front right on top its the vanos plate and replacing the O-rings are easy and cheap. but if it manages to ruin the solenoid it can be costly, as high as 750bucks for the part, the up side is that its easy to do the replacement, 5 bolts out I think remove the solenoid pack and put new one in.
I am probably missing other stuff but I've rambled way too long already... (I just noticed how long my response already is LOL) anyways the car is very reliable as long as you do the preventitive maintenance and cost is not that different on normal cars as long as you DIY otherwise LABOR cost will kill you.
Nowadays most of the stuff listed by erickrayos would have already been done by the person selling it, but it does mean that you must ask them before deciding to buy. Remember these were between £40000-50000 new, and can snap at the heels of cars much more expensive! In relation to the new price, maintenance is about what is expected. Not cheap, but not mega sky high with all proprietary parts like porsche or ferrari, etc. As for the Vanos - the Beisan Systems rebuild packs are much cheaper, around £600 for a full kit. They also come with uprated seals and the oil pump disk tabs are CNC machined slightly wider so there is much less chance of any rattles appearing. Solenoid packs are also strengthened around the solder points with the PCB buffered to eliminate shocks/vibration damage. Loose cam bolts are extremely rare and generally only happen if someone has been in there before and not retightened them properly but if they do go then say goodbye to the top end! One thing left out of the list above is the rear differential. Rebuilds for these are much, much cheaper than OEM replacements and there are options to uprate the crown and pinion to adjust the gearing and give more acceleration. Quaiffe ATB diffs are indestructable and also about half the price of OEM. The cooling system on these are also prone to giving out but again, most will have been replaced already. Samco make decent silicon hoses to replace the plastic parts that are known to give out around 100k miles or so. Also available in different colours, which look great in any engine bay. Please don't be put off looking for an S54 though, if you do then be prepared to pay a premium for one that has been looked after and had all the majors already taken care of. A few thousand more for a really good one is well worth the money as the seller will be making a loss on the combined total of the maintenance costs he will have shelled out for. If you are handy with tools and prepared to learn how to maintain an E46 M3 there are plenty of tutorials and help on hand through various dedicated forums. Now is the time to pick up a decent M3 as the prices are already starting to climb. Looked after models will be at the same price as a sorted Euro spec E36 M3 Evolution in a couple of years (these are rare now and going for well over £14000) so you are guaranteed to at the very least recoup your initial investment. Many say keep away from SMG but it's all down to preference. Try both an SMG and 6MT if you can as you can be easily bogged down reading about everyones "opinion" of each online. If you do buy and decide it is too much of an upkeep then you can easily resell for what you bought it for as they are sought after now.
man that would be a fun trip id go the long way and make it a 2000 mile run home,, would love a white m3 or any m3 lol
You looking
What's up, ShiftingLanes! Is that my music that I hear in your video? ;)
Noooooo. Also yes. Love your work!
-Gregson
Ryan, I only use your music now in my videos on RUclips. It's a tech channel.
Thanks!!! :D
I appreciate the love, TuxTechTV :)
how much did you pay for the m3?
You didn't show us the subframe mounts. If it was crack-free at 176,000 miles, I would be very surprised.
Have a similar head unit myself, really good
I used to have a Vauxhall ( GM ) Vectra that I kept till 170k. It was in much better shape. That M3 has had a tough life.
Knowing my luck I'd do the walk around with the new buyer and spot the big ends hanging out saying Yo !
headlights can be self levelling arm on the suspension can break simple fix . If that mirror leaks though its corrosive and ruins what it hits it did in mine. I would get it sorted if i was you
I saw this car on Orlando Craigslist and knew it was a great deal! I wish I had the money to buy it :/
This M3 is abused, i tell ya.
Most of us BMW owners would immediately zero in on the rear subframe. The mounting points almost always crack and require remediation and the installation of new mounting hard points. It's not a showstopper but just be aware.
Having tavarish’s knowledge would be amazing
Lol
That’s not an oil leak, that’s the factory anti rust protection system! LOL
The subframe is a non issue unless someone likes dumping the clutch at 8,000 rpms at stop lights regularly or drifting it. I'll bet the valve cover gasket is leaking. They are notorious for leaking on that strait six. If you change it also check the valve clearances, it has solid lifters.
194,000 on my 03 330ci, i drive the hell out of it everyday, if you maintain your vehicle it will run for a long time
Tavarish the type of guy who thinks he’s a expert on vehicle inspections. He’s just a DIY guy who enjoys working on cars while doing a backyard job
Jon Hashimi MAYBE YOU FEEL LIKE HE KNOWS EVERYTHING...HE OBVIOUSLY KNOWS MORE THAN YOU LITERALLY OR YOU WOULDN'T HAVE COMMENTED ON YOUR PERCEPTION OF HIM....
What makes an expert? Please expound....
@@kbgbrownbrown2922 shut up man..its not even that serious
Do you happen to know the make and model of the Android radio?
Knew it was tavarishs garage from the thumbnail lol
totally agree the expanshion tanks are bad for blowing up happend on my e46 330d m sport and my mates m3 e46
Also the m3 has a auto headlight adjuster it’s attached to the front suspension it has a plastic arm. Just swap it to easy That most likely why it’s point down. Also the oval mirror is know to leak the acid.
E46 unibody is known to crack around the rear subframe mounting points. The whole chassis tears apart on these cars. It'd be the first thing to check if it was my car! Or even before I bought it. Search for it, its well known.
Whole chassis? Bollocks mate. The RACP is the main and only structural weak point on these cars. A vince brace is the only permanent fix, but once done there is nothing left to worry about chassis wise.
Look on the youtube channel of Redish Motorsport. Some cars even had the whole trunk floor torn apart. For example: watch?v=hvyfSpHpx6A
Don't need to look. I've had my own M3 for over 2 years and researched before, during and after buying it. The guys at redish know their M3s' and their work is top notch. The point is the "whole chassis" is very much a different thing to say than just the RACP in the boot area (aka "trunk floor"). Cars that have had the boot area come away are ignored by idiot owners as the well known signs and sounds of a failing RACP come way, way before that happens.
Okay, I meant to say the surrounding of the rear subframe plus trunk floor. Ofcourse the rest is fine. Still a sad thing to happen, I wont be buying a E46 because of this very reason.
No probs mate. To be honest, the Internet has done a very good job of demonising the entire E46 range through its' design faults which has left everyone insisting that every single one is guaranteed to fail. Although there are a minority of cars affected, there are too many variables that would determine if or when a RACP is going to fail. The most notable one is how it has been driven and if there have been many sloppy gear changes or drag starts. Redlining 1st gear with a quick change to 2nd is a surefire way to test the M3 chassis but so long as it is done in a controlled manner there is a lot less strain on the final drive area. Plus, the cabrios of any year have strengthening panels which although do add weight, it gives more protection and they are less vulnerable to stress cracks. The various dedicated forums have a few people who have had this exact problem and spent the money to have it fixed right but it most definitely is not at epidemic levels. The bad, unmaintained, uncared for M3's are now starting to leave the roads (some literally), which is leaving the good ones that will be mainly enthusiast owned and properly looked after. Eventually, most M3's for sale will have had a shit load of preventative money spent on them and will be good to go for years to come. But this will also carry a hefty premium, exactly how the E36 Evo went for example. Good Evo's are impossible to find for under around £14000 now.
Tavarish ftw
What you see are TYPICAL E46 problems.. The fix for both the mirror and sunroof-cover is both easy and cheep. I had them both, and also subframe-cracks, on my E46 M3.
Hope you got a really good price for that...
just bought my e46 m3 and im in orlando lol mine is in the same condition as yours lol
lol i recognized Tavarish's garage from the thumbnail
It's actually in decent condition, the engine has no vanos noises, small leaks underneath but that's to be expected, the mirror and switches, android system and speakers etc are small problems. I don't think the car has ever been enthusiast owned, possibly people just had it for a few years and roasted it every day, regardless of that it wouldn't take much to bring it back
Dealing with a check engine light is easy. That’s what black plastic electrical tape is for. Cover the dash area.
nice video..... I want one
what brand is that head unit im looking for one of them
I got acura integra 91 wit 289,881 miles driveing to vegas and driving back to los angeles and still a champ 😂👌
I just got my second m3 with 186k miles and it’s in very good shape subframe and everything is stock interior looks like it has 60k miles on it
you've been eatin out by guys lol
You need to remove that mirror asap before the fluid leaks out and eats through the interior.
have to go into phone bluetooth settings and set it to auto connect mate i have same head unit
Hell, just weld some half inch thick 60K psi steel plate on the top of the spring mount, never another issue.
V70R takes the win for practicality.
Ugh I replaced those emmisions hoses on mine since the plastic gets pretty brittle .
E46s also chew up the sunroof rail tabs lol 😭
mine is broken too
Happened to me too
Was this trip non stop? Or you had some down time?
Watch you don't kick off the OBD2 port bluetooth adapter off when you get in the car. I had an android head unit and Torque app in my now gone 330d E46.
Only real issue I had with the video is damn...the e46 get's that bad gas mileage?
1996 e36 328is, 251,000 miles, I average 25-26mpg. That's direct calculated, not off some gauge. I fill it every time, then when I refill I note in my book the trip mileage and the gallons to fill.
If I'm willing to go below 1/4 tank I can make 400 miles between fillups, probably more with continuous highway driving like this. I've driven St Louis to Denver in only two stops.
Wow doing well for high millage perfomance car no vanos rattle and no rot from rear subframe wich are the 2 most common high cost problems these car suffer from.
looks good underneath compared to our uk m3s with half the mileage ...salty wet roads
Also the m3 nor does any 3 series has Harmon Kardon sound system stock. It’s an upgrade. If the system is all there and not blown is sounds amazing it’s a great setup for its age.
My right tweeter just blew last week :( lol
I have a 2000 328ci with sports and premium package and it HAS the harman kardon system. I dont know what u mean by "stock" and "an upgrade". Wtf
harmon kardon is an upgrade you pay extra for. the base system comes with the car included. the base system doesn't sound as good as HK. you can tell if the car does or doesn't have HK by looking at the tweeters in the A pillar and the rear speakers on the rear deck of the trunk. they will say harmon kardon and also there will be a switch with a speaker on it infront of the gear selector.
Yeah i have all that but i mean to me stock means whatever comes from the factory. Yes, the lower trim doesnt have the HK and the higher trim does. But both versions come from the factory as stock. An upgrade to me feels like something non-oem. Something installed by the owner for example
instead of stock think of it as base. upgrade is upgrade and aftermarket is aftermarket.
Front bilsteins are installed wrong (not fully seated)
I would teardown the whole engine rebuild it again and you should be good for another 150k
Headgasket went on mine at112 thou miles ,between 5&6 ,
Hell, we all have some loose screws. LOL
That happened to my rear view mirror.. Damn replacement is way to much $$ I don't need my rear view mirror anyways lol
Eaten out by guys... ahahahahahaha
All kids making vids are pretending they were big car guys BUT THEN THEY CRANK THE CAR TURNING THE KEY AS IF THEY FLIP A BURGER. WHICH THEY EVENTUALLY WILL BE DOING WHEN RUclips DOES NOT FETCH ANYMORE. There are a number of processes that need to be carried out by the car's systems to successfully perform a crank and start procedure. There are positions in the ignition lock, which stand for groups or levels of these processes such as: reset and set up the throttle plate(s), charge the ignition coil(s), prime the fuel tank, pressurize the fuel in the rail(s), boot the ECU, check oil level, check air temperature, check coolant temperature, check check check. And then THE KID WHO HAD ALWAYS WANTED EVERYTHING NNNNOW COMES IN AND FREAKING TWISTS THE KEY IN ONE GO. If you want to act like you know shxt about cars on the interwebz, start a car turning the key step by step. You may even wait for the dash lights to go out before cranking WHICH IS WHAT 90% OF USER MANUALS SAY.
Btw that trim isn’t aluminum. That’s the titan trim it’s the base trim and it’s just wrapped plastic it doesn’t wear nicely. The aluminum it’s noticeably more aluminum than the not aluminum titan trim. The real aluminum trim will just scratch. Titan trim peals
We only have those hands free fuel pumps on big fast pumping truck diesel fill up pumps in the UK. Gas and normal diesel are not allowed ( bummer).
there's and old petrol station near me that still has one going, (in uk) only one of there four pumps still has it working tho its just a little clip under the trigger that you press down and it holds the trigger down, or sometimes I'll just use a small plastics bottle or a small piece of wood to wedge it on works a treat
Scott Unwin, I'm surprised health and safety haven't jumped on that, like everything else!
green grass, it's the only one iv ever came across and I'm sure thay would have if it had been check properly, it's makes fill up so much easier I think thay sould bring it back, iv seen a guy uses the petrol cap to wedge the trigger open too that seem to work just as well
How much miles does it have now
Self changing oil feature
Also the factory Mac at this age is going to have lots of deal pixels and it grows like a virus to either get s car with the regular radio or if you have the Mac plan to swap with the android unit. Your lucky it was already done do you. It’s a good couple hundred bucks.
Are you are using an iPhone? They have horrible problems with earlier implementations of Bluetooth - I have a Bluetooth 2 headset I use with my iPhone 6 Plus and it does the same thing, you have to turn bluetooth off and on to get it working properly again. My old iPhone 5C had the same problem. Same headset with my Nexus 6P has zero issues ever. Same with an old bluetooth speaker I have, works perfectly on my Android phone, pain in the ass on my iphone. I have a Bluetooth 4 headset and that doesn't have the same problem, and a newer speaker that likewise works fine - so I suspect Apple have just never bothered to fix bugs in older bluetooth connectivity.
My E46 has 222,000 miles... LOL
of my 7 series 2006 986.000 km original all!!
tovarish means really good freind in Romanian
Hey Bro how much did you pay for that car? I guess for the shape less than $8,000
That E46 is an absolute lemon
Tavarish @11:16
Jesus.
Hope he got that for a killer price....
+Toyota4Life We did.
he paid you to take it away i hope : )
ShiftingLanes how much?
is that the stock exhaust or is there a cat replaced by a straight pipe?
OKS BASS that’s stock
My 2002 330i with 170k has zero leaks...
Typical rear view mirror issue. Anyone interested in getting this fixed email message me. I can get your mirror fixed for $65 will do turn around in less than 3 days.
Man that car is rough bro
I have a 99 C43 AMG with over 312k miles on it and almost zero maintenance the last 100k miles. I would love for you to compare/contrast between these 2 cars after so many years and miles, but you're in NJ.
lol zero maintenance my ass
Tbh, the w202, w208, w210 chassis and m112 (v6)/m113 (v8) paired engines were Mercedes' last "bullet proof" models to come off the production line. Aside from general maintenance, the Mercedes doesn't seem to be programmed to go into full shutdown mode when the slightest variance in mechanical/electrical function is detected. To compare, I have a '99 c280 and even with bad transmission solenoids, it never gives the infamous "transmission slam" that was so prevalent in my E60. There's plenty more but then it'll just piss me off the more I think about it.
nice car
great truck for carrying your old tyres
Long throw on that gearbox for an m3. Looks ready for the bin.
Miles on the M3 is almost match with this video total view count.
how much did you pay for it?
solid car my ass
i hate it when ppl just stick the key in the ignition and start the engine right away...it is clearly a cold start as the revs are in red 8:05
The quality of BMW's makes me shit nauseous!
I’d love to get one but worried about the reliability of them . Don’t want to be spending a fortune fixing it
mine does the same thing i have a 02 SMG M3 E46 my chk engine light sometimes just op on i like that head unit were u got that????
My expansion tank didn’t explode. I had a crack and then it leaked...