Just got around to printing this and this is just as amazing as the lighthouse puzzle. I will post my print to printables. Thanks again for sharing with the community!
You instructional videos are SO SO good. Thank you for sharing and creating these instructional videos. I am not the best when it comes to reading and applying written instructions, so these videos are GODSENT. Thanks again for sharing; you are making my gift giving so much fun and honestly, since I found you, all I have 3d printed is puzzles and I can't wait to print every single one you have. Thanks again. Big FAN of yours. Much Love. Owais.
I am so glad you share these amazing puzzles with us. I am having trouble on this one, however. No matter what I try I cannot get the interlocking parts to interlock. I have pressed them into the ends to where I am convinced that they are fully seated but when I put the bottom end on and press the top, middle and, bottom together and turn them they don't even scrape together.
I'm glad you like the puzzles! I can think of a few possible causes. - Do the interlocking pins fit together okay if you try to connect them outside the puzzle? If not, you may need to sand them down a little. - Did you print 1 copy of each pin? They look similar, but the two sides aren't identical. - When the interlocking pins fit into the top and bottom shells, are they rotated so that the little indexing dot lines up with the cutout in the pin base? - Last but not least, did you download the files from Printables or elsewhere? I try to keep my models up-to-date, but it's definitely possibly you have an older version from Thingiverse or Thangs.
Thank you so much for the information. I did print a copy of both interlocking files at the same time. Is there a way to tell them apart? Or do I need to print one over?
To tell them apart, I look at whether or not the little round notch in the base lines up with a raised tooth where the pins lock together. Once you have two non-identical pins, it doesn't matter which pin goes in the top and which one goes in the bottom. They just have to mesh. Good luck!
I know this is old, but lots of people find it hard to find dowels that are magetic, but if you look for DIN 6325 (dowel) those are made from carbon steel = magnetic.
Hatchbox True Gold PLA! It's a bit too dull to use for things that I want to look actually gold, but it works great as a fake wood color. I also use the same color for the frame on the Treasure Chest Puzzle Box. Happy printing!
I had a lot of bad luck with final assembly & testing. I had to unscrew mine and chamfer the central mating parts to get a good snap. Then I think I may have snapped the hole-less lid on without the piston in the right place. I had to get a long skinny-handled spoon to push it open. Then I managed to gouge my tabletop trying to pound the magnetic bar free. In the end, it seems to work, but the threaded rod tends to spirally dribble its way right out of the chute when you hold it up :/
Sorry to hear it gave you so much trouble! A few of the issues (interlocking pins & tight metal dowel) sound related - clearances that are too tight. This is possibly over extrusion? The Interlocking pins and screw have alternate versions with different clearances for this exact problem. I've printed over 100 barrels now and, even on the exact same printer, I have to switch between the "tight" & "loose" version of the screw depending on what filament I'm using. Some mechanical designs just require a lot of printer tuning and testing. Thanks for printing my design anyway! Maybe some of the issue can be cleared up just by reprinting the alternate screw and the interlocking pins. I'd also try using a drill bit to open up the channel the metal dowel slides through. Good luck!
@@3DPrinty Oh it was more of me being distracted and oblivious about where I was pounding it until it was too late (alas). The metal pin does drop out of the way as needed. I did drop down to a single o-ring on the pistons for both lids because the thread rod tended to just shove apart the center spring joint rather than displace the lid like it was supposed to. Not sure what if anything can be done about the threaded rod falling out by itself, though. Maybe a little nub of hot glue or something.
I'm going to research printing a custom TPU insert for the versions of the screw that have an o-ring slot. If that works, it'll be an easy way to adjust how tight the screw is without actually reprinting the screw. On a positive note, even if the screw slides out on its own, the puzzle still requires removing the cork tool to progress - it blocks the puzzle rotation.
I printed mine with 0.2mm layer heights, 2 perimeters, and 10% gyroid infill. I used a brim just to be absolutely certain that the bottoms of all the shells remained flat. Depending on how your slicer makes brims, you may be best NOT adding them to the list. Some slicer settings print super tiny brims between each cut in the lid... and that's tricky to remove. For the hoops, you can get away with 2 perimeters and no infill. Print the screw slowly with a very generous brim. This part is very tall and must be printed accurately. Happy printing!
That really comes down to your printer. I'd print the default first and see how it feels. Ideally, the screw will be tight enough not to just come out when you tip the barrel over. But even if it does, the puzzle isn't ruined - solving requires taking out the cork either way.
This is what I used: 52100 Alloy Steel Dowel Pin, 4mm Diameter, 14mm Long www.mcmaster.com/52100-alloy-steel-dowel-pins/material~52100-alloy-steel That said, the dowel and magnet are the least important part of the puzzle. If you can't find a suitable pin, or cut one down from a magnetic bolt, I would just skip that part of the assembly and let the cork just sit in the hole. In many cases, it's a reasonably snug fit. Good luck!
Just got around to printing this and this is just as amazing as the lighthouse puzzle. I will post my print to printables. Thanks again for sharing with the community!
I'm so glad you like it! The barrel puzzle is probably my favorite of the series, even though there's a lot of hardware required.
You instructional videos are SO SO good. Thank you for sharing and creating these instructional videos. I am not the best when it comes to reading and applying written instructions, so these videos are GODSENT. Thanks again for sharing; you are making my gift giving so much fun and honestly, since I found you, all I have 3d printed is puzzles and I can't wait to print every single one you have.
Thanks again. Big FAN of yours. Much Love.
Owais.
I'm happy to hear it. Thank you for printing my designs :)
I am so glad you share these amazing puzzles with us. I am having trouble on this one, however. No matter what I try I cannot get the interlocking parts to interlock. I have pressed them into the ends to where I am convinced that they are fully seated but when I put the bottom end on and press the top, middle and, bottom together and turn them they don't even scrape together.
I'm glad you like the puzzles! I can think of a few possible causes.
- Do the interlocking pins fit together okay if you try to connect them outside the puzzle? If not, you may need to sand them down a little.
- Did you print 1 copy of each pin? They look similar, but the two sides aren't identical.
- When the interlocking pins fit into the top and bottom shells, are they rotated so that the little indexing dot lines up with the cutout in the pin base?
- Last but not least, did you download the files from Printables or elsewhere? I try to keep my models up-to-date, but it's definitely possibly you have an older version from Thingiverse or Thangs.
Thank you so much for the information. I did print a copy of both interlocking files at the same time. Is there a way to tell them apart? Or do I need to print one over?
To tell them apart, I look at whether or not the little round notch in the base lines up with a raised tooth where the pins lock together.
Once you have two non-identical pins, it doesn't matter which pin goes in the top and which one goes in the bottom. They just have to mesh. Good luck!
So cool! I'm 3D printing the DK edition for my brother!
That's great! Good luck and happy printing!
I know this is old, but lots of people find it hard to find dowels that are magetic, but if you look for DIN 6325 (dowel) those are made from carbon steel = magnetic.
What filament (brand and color) was used for the wooden slates? I am using Cyclone and eSun, but I cannot find a similar color.
Hatchbox True Gold PLA!
It's a bit too dull to use for things that I want to look actually gold, but it works great as a fake wood color. I also use the same color for the frame on the Treasure Chest Puzzle Box.
Happy printing!
I had a lot of bad luck with final assembly & testing. I had to unscrew mine and chamfer the central mating parts to get a good snap. Then I think I may have snapped the hole-less lid on without the piston in the right place. I had to get a long skinny-handled spoon to push it open. Then I managed to gouge my tabletop trying to pound the magnetic bar free. In the end, it seems to work, but the threaded rod tends to spirally dribble its way right out of the chute when you hold it up :/
Sorry to hear it gave you so much trouble! A few of the issues (interlocking pins & tight metal dowel) sound related - clearances that are too tight. This is possibly over extrusion?
The Interlocking pins and screw have alternate versions with different clearances for this exact problem.
I've printed over 100 barrels now and, even on the exact same printer, I have to switch between the "tight" & "loose" version of the screw depending on what filament I'm using. Some mechanical designs just require a lot of printer tuning and testing.
Thanks for printing my design anyway!
Maybe some of the issue can be cleared up just by reprinting the alternate screw and the interlocking pins. I'd also try using a drill bit to open up the channel the metal dowel slides through. Good luck!
@@3DPrinty Oh it was more of me being distracted and oblivious about where I was pounding it until it was too late (alas). The metal pin does drop out of the way as needed. I did drop down to a single o-ring on the pistons for both lids because the thread rod tended to just shove apart the center spring joint rather than displace the lid like it was supposed to. Not sure what if anything can be done about the threaded rod falling out by itself, though. Maybe a little nub of hot glue or something.
I'm going to research printing a custom TPU insert for the versions of the screw that have an o-ring slot. If that works, it'll be an easy way to adjust how tight the screw is without actually reprinting the screw.
On a positive note, even if the screw slides out on its own, the puzzle still requires removing the cork tool to progress - it blocks the puzzle rotation.
@@3DPrinty A (dried!) drop of white school glue on the screw is enough to give it a little friction in the tube.
@@JavaJack59 That's a great solution!
Do you have recommended print settings for prusa printer?
I printed mine with 0.2mm layer heights, 2 perimeters, and 10% gyroid infill.
I used a brim just to be absolutely certain that the bottoms of all the shells remained flat. Depending on how your slicer makes brims, you may be best NOT adding them to the list. Some slicer settings print super tiny brims between each cut in the lid... and that's tricky to remove.
For the hoops, you can get away with 2 perimeters and no infill.
Print the screw slowly with a very generous brim. This part is very tall and must be printed accurately.
Happy printing!
@@3DPrinty I see the file has three different screws (screw, tight, loose)how do you which to use?
That really comes down to your printer. I'd print the default first and see how it feels. Ideally, the screw will be tight enough not to just come out when you tip the barrel over. But even if it does, the puzzle isn't ruined - solving requires taking out the cork either way.
Where did you get your dowel? Im having a hard time finding one thats magnetic
This is what I used:
52100 Alloy Steel Dowel Pin, 4mm Diameter, 14mm Long
www.mcmaster.com/52100-alloy-steel-dowel-pins/material~52100-alloy-steel
That said, the dowel and magnet are the least important part of the puzzle. If you can't find a suitable pin, or cut one down from a magnetic bolt, I would just skip that part of the assembly and let the cork just sit in the hole. In many cases, it's a reasonably snug fit.
Good luck!
@@3DPrinty thank you!