Don't the rollers leave a lot of bubbles? I'm used to using oil based finishes and bubbles are the enemy. Do they disappear with a water based product?
Basic Coatings EasyStreet is, in my opinion, a much better product than either of those choices. Also the Super Matte is a beautiful soft, only in appearance, finish. When it achieves full cure in 7 days it is a very hard finish. You also have a longer working window that the 5 minutes stated in this demo video.
I normally use a lambswool to apply my water based finish and it flows out pretty evenly and smooth however I am going to be doing a floor soon and was wondering with using a roller does the floor have an orange peel like feel or does it flow out and become smooth ?
I’m going to be doing a job for a friend, he just bought his new house and wants new poly finish. My go to is the 3M SPP pad to remove the old poly. I see some pros laying a base coat before laying poly, is this required? Or can I lay the first coat after cleaning the floor?
So I’m doing my first poly project and I’ve applied two coats with a sheep’s wool applicator pad. I’ve sanded in between coats and will be doing my third coat tomorrow. Why does my floor look gritty…after sanding with 220 grit I’ve vacuumed and mineral spirit wiped down the flooring allowing to dry. Does it just need more coats? I’m using zar oil modified poly
What gloss level are you using? The higher the gloss the more things show. The big question is does it only look gritty or does it FEEL gritty. If it just looks gritty I would lower your gloss level to either a satin or a matte finish. If it's feels gritty re-screen your floor vacuum using a felt wand and dry tack with a microfiber towel. I don't recommend using mineral spirits. Make sure you are using a new 18" 3/8" microfiber roller (thicker naps tend to spray your finish as you roll) and a clean cut pail and brush. If you cut both end walls and pour your finish in the middle rolling wall to wall is best. You avoid lap marks this way
I ordered all the stuff needed to apply oil based poly. The guy at the store recommended a poly that was like oil based but basically water based. I didn’t figure this out until the third coat when it kept coming out rough. I even told him I needed oil based poly!! I had to get a foam applicator pad and sand down all the poly surface that I applied the water based poly with the lamb wool applicator. Then it came out great!!
Yes it cost me a lot of aggravation and put me past my deadline that I took off of work to complete but it all turned out nice. Just a little more time and money than expected.
@@jamesfarina7247 in having trouble with my 1st floor screening and recoat. I rolled on the water based polyurethane and there were a ton of tiny bubbles. I didn't shake the can or roll to fast either. Will microfiber help with the bubble issue?
I don't understand WHY SOCKS and no shoes? I would never stop in the middle of the room with the finish , you should start from one end and finish at the other end.....all finishes will give you cancer, but the Swedish/Synteko will warn you about that.
We either go socks or shoes used only for coating. We never wear work boots on a finished floor. We used to go wall to wall as well. The tech you see here just finished the factory training class for Berger Siedle and is following the factory technique. They do not go wall to wall.
Thanks for your comment and for watching. For this particular finish (Berger Seidle Royal Matte), wall-to-wall is actually against manufacturer guidelines. The reason is that you don't get even coverage when you work for long stretches.
I normally use a lambswool to apply my water based finish and it flows out pretty evenly and smooth however I am going to be doing a floor soon and was wondering with using a roller does the floor have an orange peel like feel or does it flow out and become smooth ?
Are you bold enough to coat your own floor?
Yep.. my floor is already ugly so either I make it much better or only slightly better haha.
What's the name of that top finished coat
Thank you. So was your floor sanded prior to the water base polyurethane roll
Links?
Sounds like a good time man 😎👍
“Acid cure gives you cancer don’t use it” gave me a good chuckle 😂😂 thanks for the vid !
Haha I like that too. I don't actually know what that is though. Just an older technique?
What types of rollers??
Thank you. Getting motivated, slowly but surely. 😀
Great video! You said you were going to link the rollers you use. Did I miss the link?
Don't the rollers leave a lot of bubbles? I'm used to using oil based finishes and bubbles are the enemy. Do they disappear with a water based product?
Great video
Thanks!
Thank you for the video.
Thank you! I really needed this!
Great video, my advice is don’t even address the haters.
Thank you! And your probably right about that!
My contractor wants to use varathane or duraseal to refinish our hardwood. Are they good products?
Basic Coatings EasyStreet is, in my opinion, a much better product than either of those choices. Also the Super Matte is a beautiful soft, only in appearance, finish. When it achieves full cure in 7 days it is a very hard finish. You also have a longer working window that the 5 minutes stated in this demo video.
I normally use a lambswool to apply my water based finish and it flows out pretty evenly and smooth however I am going to be doing a floor soon and was wondering with using a roller does the floor have an orange peel like feel or does it flow out and become smooth ?
I’m going to be doing a job for a friend, he just bought his new house and wants new poly finish. My go to is the 3M SPP pad to remove the old poly. I see some pros laying a base coat before laying poly, is this required? Or can I lay the first coat after cleaning the floor?
Need help to know what kind of roller to use that won't leave bubbles.
So I’m doing my first poly project and I’ve applied two coats with a sheep’s wool applicator pad. I’ve sanded in between coats and will be doing my third coat tomorrow. Why does my floor look gritty…after sanding with 220 grit I’ve vacuumed and mineral spirit wiped down the flooring allowing to dry. Does it just need more coats? I’m using zar oil modified poly
What gloss level are you using? The higher the gloss the more things show. The big question is does it only look gritty or does it FEEL gritty. If it just looks gritty I would lower your gloss level to either a satin or a matte finish. If it's feels gritty re-screen your floor vacuum using a felt wand and dry tack with a microfiber towel. I don't recommend using mineral spirits. Make sure you are using a new 18" 3/8" microfiber roller (thicker naps tend to spray your finish as you roll) and a clean cut pail and brush. If you cut both end walls and pour your finish in the middle rolling wall to wall is best. You avoid lap marks this way
I ordered all the stuff needed to apply oil based poly. The guy at the store recommended a poly that was like oil based but basically water based. I didn’t figure this out until the third coat when it kept coming out rough. I even told him I needed oil based poly!! I had to get a foam applicator pad and sand down all the poly surface that I applied the water based poly with the lamb wool applicator. Then it came out great!!
@@mkrom630 To me there is nothing worse than a sales person who doesn't give the client what they are asking for. Glad it finally worked out for you
Yes it cost me a lot of aggravation and put me past my deadline that I took off of work to complete but it all turned out nice. Just a little more time and money than expected.
Did you sand down the previous finish? Or is it ok to apply the ultra matte finish directly without sanding? I’m interested in doing it to my floors
You have to abrade the floors. Use a maroon pad
How many coats of Polyurethane finish? One or can you do two. The natural wood sealer was applied on the new floor first already.
Looks good. Question, what did you do to prep the floor? Thank you
great advice
Looks amazing!
What rollers are you using?
It is water and fire resistant?
Thanks - but I dont see the link to the rollers you use??
We have been using an 18" 3/8" Arroworthy micro fiber roller for the last 15 years and it gives us a flawless finish every time
Do the rollers work with Oil Base? Or just water?
@@JTRUTH2025 Both, this isn't your grandfathers poly anymore.
@@jamesfarina7247 in having trouble with my 1st floor screening and recoat. I rolled on the water based polyurethane and there were a ton of tiny bubbles. I didn't shake the can or roll to fast either. Will microfiber help with the bubble issue?
@@kevinbjorn267 What nap did you use? We use a 3/8th microfiber roller. Some products shouldn't be shaken so stirring well is highly recommended.
It is water and fire resistant
I came here for the rollers you promised to mention and still have no answer haha
Under ‘more’ in the title/description
It is water and fire resistant
It is water and fire resistant?
How many coats
links ??? to rollers
It's
bad for health?
The fumes are
@@lumberjackhardwoodsupply Does this cause any problems?
And
@@lumberjackhardwoodsupply
It is water and fire resistant
If the floor was so thirsty, why did you use a water based and not oil based? Just curious, I’m redoing my hardwood rn and we opted for the oil based.
It’s not related to the type of finish, it just needed a 3rd coat.
how can one see the need for the 3rd coat, what are the tale tell signs? @@lumberjackhardwoodsupply
I don't understand WHY SOCKS and no shoes? I would never stop in the middle of the room with the finish , you should start from one end and finish at the other end.....all finishes will give you cancer, but the Swedish/Synteko will warn you about that.
We either go socks or shoes used only for coating. We never wear work boots on a finished floor. We used to go wall to wall as well. The tech you see here just finished the factory training class for Berger Siedle and is following the factory technique. They do not go wall to wall.
Work in socks keep dirt off floors so keep shoes off.
@@lumberjackhardwoodsupply You should give wall to wall a try, you will like it.
Should be rolling wall to wall
Thanks for your comment and for watching. For this particular finish (Berger Seidle Royal Matte), wall-to-wall is actually against manufacturer guidelines. The reason is that you don't get even coverage when you work for long stretches.
With that technique no wonder...
Not sure what that means, but I think the end product speaks for itself...
Man find something better to do than hate on random people online. Get a hobby or something lol.
I normally use a lambswool to apply my water based finish and it flows out pretty evenly and smooth however I am going to be doing a floor soon and was wondering with using a roller does the floor have an orange peel like feel or does it flow out and become smooth ?
It is water and fire resistant