After almost owning a 230S smart for a year. This actually worked for this version. Crashed it bad. Rebuilt it. Did a bunch of trim flights and calibrated the dam thing more times than I’d like to count. Though this was the only thing that worked!!! I’m also using a NX series transmitter for those who are curious. It works! Though it does jump “ hop “ differently when you enter this mode.
I re place the blade grips and it didn't fly after I replace the blade grips I did the servo leveling thing inside the book like what you said now it does great and I don't have the dx678 or 9 I just have the ready to fly transmitter that came with it and it seems to work out quite well thank you for your video appreciate what you do stay safe
Help Please . I have this same Heli . Collective pitch is not working . Throttle works and so does Rudder on left stick . Right gimbal is fine. Elevator and ailerons move fine . Please help . I'm using the DXs transmitter that came it came with .
Hello everyone and Happy New Year ! I just received the Blade 230S Smart BNF equipped with the AR6250MHXA. How to insert the Bind Plug association socket without dismantling everything? In addition, besides the fact that my fingers do not pass and that I do not see the plugs, a plug is already connected to the BIND plug ..... My radio is a Spektrum DX6 G2 EU. All have a happy new year 2022!
Hi Cedric happy new year. I don't completely understand. Are you trying to bind it to your transmitter and cant get the bind plug in, or the plug is already in and can't remove it? Thanks
@@cydrec I'm not exactly sure about that to be honest mate. I know the 230s smart is different in a few ways from the V2. I only have the 230s v2 not the smart. The V2 just has bind port on back of the receiver easy to get to. Do you have the manual for the receiver and helicopter?
@@RCStuffvideos the AR6250MHXA he's fully different than previous receiver. Anyone reply to my the bind plug is on the side of the heli 230S Smart, now it's ok. The manual is empty about that
I guess it has the same effect as trim but we don't use trim on transmitter with rc heli really. Could call it more like fine tuning servo centre position.
I never fly in self level mode. Maybe 3 seconds to take off. Good question about pertaining to idle up. I'm sure mine flew better in all modes. I think it depends what mode you'd use as a reference if that makes sense? So i THINK you could fine tune it in any mode.
@@RCStuffvideos so when you're in acro it would drift? if you set up a stable hover it would still drift? I don't get it. the swash stays where you put it doesn't it?
@@skypilot23 yeah it should do pretty much. I can't remember exactly what idle up was like back then but more recently I was fiddling with sub-trim now I have a dx9, to try and get it hovering even more accurately and it seemed it could be tuned for self level or idle up if that makes sense. I think sub-trim is kind of doing a similar thing to this procedure. I'm not going to pretend to know everything but it did seem to affect idle up a bit too. Are you trying to solve a particular problem?
@@RCStuffvideos not having a problem here- but liked your video and trying to get detail. When I put an attitude on the swash it holds there until I give further input doesn't drift- anyway happy flying
Mines been stupid ever sense I bound it to my dx6e and off the ready to fly dxs..not sure why my stability mode doesn't work anymore.. thinking I don't have something right but don't know what
Mine acted that way with the dx6e and after much head banging someone told me to go into the stability menu of forward programming and activate stability there. It got mine working again.
@@jakelang4387 forward programming does not appear on the DX6e menu unless the helicopter is turned on. Turn on your chopper and it will magically appear in the function list
I think this is not the right way. These steps worked for me perfectly : 1. Adjust the servoarms with the shown method perpendicular to the servo (eyeballing) 2. Adjust the swashplate to a leveled position by adjusting the linkages (swash leveller / eyeballing against a horizontal line on the wall for example) 3. Adjust the center of gravity to the best you can 4. Do the Calibration flight (hovering for 2 minutes or so with no wind) with a velcroed battery WITHOUT tightening the velcro strap or no velcro strap ! Done - Flies like pussycat
This is the correct way. I have a v1 and did this exactly however I had to let the heli climb till it was pretty high while holding it steady. Then when it had a bit of drift still I repeated the trim flight with a steady 2mph wind blowing it in the direction it was drifting. Held it steady and now my 230 feels like it has gps lock. Of course stability and trim flight has no effect on the stunt modes aside from panic recovery.
If you plan on flying in stability mode and being at beginner level forever than this works for a simple but imprecise cure. No point in explaining the correct way Anyone familiar with 3d flight knows this already
Now that I've been flying mine a bit could you not have just used forward programming and adjusted the flight controller. There's calibration settings and their for the drift… That's what I did and my 230 hovers perfect… And it was quick. But believe me I am no expert I did find the blade 230 had horrible tail rotor Hold… So I had to learn the PID algorithm and the numbers I programmed are nowhere near what the factory puts in. I now have a better tale hold I was getting large blowback when aggressive
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After almost owning a 230S smart for a year. This actually worked for this version. Crashed it bad. Rebuilt it. Did a bunch of trim flights and calibrated the dam thing more times than I’d like to count. Though this was the only thing that worked!!! I’m also using a NX series transmitter for those who are curious. It works! Though it does jump “ hop “ differently when you enter this mode.
That's awesome. Glad it helped.
Wow this really helped me out with stable hovering. Used to violently drift after about 30sec of flight. Now it doesn't.
Awesome. Glad it helped.
A couple of my Blade helis do that, they start off fine, then start to wander. The longer I fly, the worse it gets.
Mine drift to left,had to move to rite to compensate, thanks you sir that help alot,newbie here,learning process...never give up 👍🇺🇸🇨🇱✌️
Nice! I've been wondering about this adjustment, and I'm gonna give it a try!
Good luck, hope it helps.
I re place the blade grips and it didn't fly after I replace the blade grips I did the servo leveling thing inside the book like what you said now it does great and I don't have the dx678 or 9 I just have the ready to fly transmitter that came with it and it seems to work out quite well thank you for your video appreciate what you do stay safe
Hi Jon, thanks for the comment. Really glad you found it useful. Cheers
Thank you very much, this saved me from more crashes and expense.
Thanks for making such a great video… Your explanation the filming everything really helps out. Big thank you
Thanks!
Hi, i have a question...which battery use for your elichapter? Best regards from Italy
Help Please . I have this same Heli . Collective pitch is not working . Throttle works and so does Rudder on left stick . Right gimbal is fine. Elevator and ailerons move fine . Please help . I'm using the DXs transmitter that came it came with .
Hi RC stuff
I received this yesterday.
I always thought it was an ugly thing but in reality it is a very nice and beautiful helicopter.
Ugly thing hahaha. I suppose there is a slight resemblance to a duck bulled platypus. Hope it's not insulting to a duck billed platypus. Lol
Sorry duck billed platypus 😁
So seems basically like the swashplate was uneven? Wonder if just adjusting physical links to level the swashplate would work too.
Oh I'm sure it would. This is just a bit less fiddly I suppose, especially if it's only slightly out. Cheers
Amazing video lad
Hello everyone and Happy New Year ! I just received the Blade 230S Smart BNF equipped with the AR6250MHXA. How to insert the Bind Plug association socket without dismantling everything? In addition, besides the fact that my fingers do not pass and that I do not see the plugs, a plug is already connected to the BIND plug ..... My radio is a Spektrum DX6 G2 EU. All have a happy new year 2022!
Hi Cedric happy new year. I don't completely understand. Are you trying to bind it to your transmitter and cant get the bind plug in, or the plug is already in and can't remove it? Thanks
@@RCStuffvideos the bind port is glued at left side of the frame :-)
@@cydrec I'm not exactly sure about that to be honest mate. I know the 230s smart is different in a few ways from the V2. I only have the 230s v2 not the smart. The V2 just has bind port on back of the receiver easy to get to. Do you have the manual for the receiver and helicopter?
@@RCStuffvideos the AR6250MHXA he's fully different than previous receiver. Anyone reply to my the bind plug is on the side of the heli 230S Smart, now it's ok. The manual is empty about that
Is this basically doing smaller versions of trim? I tried this on my DX6i and I don't think it did anything
I guess it has the same effect as trim but we don't use trim on transmitter with rc heli really. Could call it more like fine tuning servo centre position.
The trick is to use subtrim
To correct the drift.
Trim tabs should remain untouched.
Sub trim only.
Yeah sure. Definitely if you have a transmitter with it. This is for people with the basic transmitter
Doesn't subtrim see it as a movement and keep going that way, or am i confused with tail gyro's. I have the nx6 transmitter
do you spend a lot of time in angle self leveling mode- this doesn't pertain to acro (fm1 & 2) does it?
I never fly in self level mode. Maybe 3 seconds to take off. Good question about pertaining to idle up. I'm sure mine flew better in all modes. I think it depends what mode you'd use as a reference if that makes sense? So i THINK you could fine tune it in any mode.
@@RCStuffvideos so when you're in acro it would drift? if you set up a stable hover it would still drift? I don't get it. the swash stays where you put it doesn't it?
@@skypilot23 yeah it should do pretty much.
I can't remember exactly what idle up was like back then but more recently I was fiddling with sub-trim now I have a dx9, to try and get it hovering even more accurately and it seemed it could be tuned for self level or idle up if that makes sense. I think sub-trim is kind of doing a similar thing to this procedure.
I'm not going to pretend to know everything but it did seem to affect idle up a bit too.
Are you trying to solve a particular problem?
@@RCStuffvideos not having a problem here- but liked your video and trying to get detail. When I put an attitude on the swash it holds there until I give further input doesn't drift- anyway happy flying
I have this problem on my new blade 230 s (smart) does this method work there to? And If i use a spektrum nx6
Good question. Couldn't give you a definite answer to be honest mate. I've no experience with the 230s smart.
@@RCStuffvideos myb i can try this method, it won`t harm anything :)
Mines been stupid ever sense I bound it to my dx6e and off the ready to fly dxs..not sure why my stability mode doesn't work anymore.. thinking I don't have something right but don't know what
I heard of that before with the dx6 o think. Not exactly why. I'm sure someone on helifreak will know, or certainly horizon hobby themselves.
Mine acted that way with the dx6e and after much head banging someone told me to go into the stability menu of forward programming and activate stability there. It got mine working again.
@@taildragger1589 I must need to update mine,, because I don't have the forward program in my menu.
@@jakelang4387 forward programming does not appear on the DX6e menu unless the helicopter is turned on. Turn on your chopper and it will magically appear in the function list
If I fly my with the batt there it is nose forward. move the batt back to the stop . My fly great this way.
Hi, that's strange if that works for you. 230 is known for being tail heavy so a lot of people move it forward a bit to try and balance it. Cheers
Forgive me I run a 1300 pack . Not 800.
@@stepledbetter5590 oh ok that makes sense then. What sort of flight times you get with that beast battery?
@@RCStuffvideos sport 6.5min hard 3d 5.5 to6 min
Kavan 11,1 V 1300mA, 15-16min. 👍
I think this is not the right way. These steps worked for me perfectly :
1. Adjust the servoarms with the shown method perpendicular to the servo (eyeballing)
2. Adjust the swashplate to a leveled position by adjusting the linkages (swash leveller / eyeballing against a horizontal line on the wall for example)
3. Adjust the center of gravity to the best you can
4. Do the Calibration flight (hovering for 2 minutes or so with no wind) with a velcroed battery WITHOUT tightening the velcro strap or no velcro strap !
Done - Flies like pussycat
Hi mate thanks for the comment. That's awesome. Hope it helps some others here too. Happy flying.
@@RCStuffvideos jeah- took me weeks to figure it out - i have a phd in conscientiousness 👨🎓
This is the correct way. I have a v1 and did this exactly however I had to let the heli climb till it was pretty high while holding it steady. Then when it had a bit of drift still I repeated the trim flight with a steady 2mph wind blowing it in the direction it was drifting. Held it steady and now my 230 feels like it has gps lock.
Of course stability and trim flight has no effect on the stunt modes aside from panic recovery.
If you plan on flying in stability mode and being at beginner level forever than this works for a simple but imprecise cure.
No point in explaining the correct way
Anyone familiar with 3d flight knows this already
I bought this as my first heli to convert it into a UH-1D and this will be flown scale. I have 0 interesst into 3D
Now that I've been flying mine a bit could you not have just used forward programming and adjusted the flight controller. There's calibration settings and their for the drift… That's what I did and my 230 hovers perfect… And it was quick. But believe me I am no expert I did find the blade 230 had horrible tail rotor Hold… So I had to learn the PID algorithm and the numbers I programmed are nowhere near what the factory puts in. I now have a better tale hold I was getting large blowback when aggressive