Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
3020 Pro Max CNC Metal Engraver by Sainsmart Genmitsu - Build, test and review
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- In this weeks episode we take a look at the Sainsmart Genmitsu 3020 Pro Max desktop CNC machine. A detailed look at what you get, how to set it up and a couple of test pieces.
3020 Pro Max
shrsl.com/36dy4
Into 00:00
Specification 01:10
Unbox and build 05:12
Setup and tests 22:36
Review 37:28
I have recently set up a Patreon page to help keep making tutorials and keep my RUclips channel moving forward.
/ jamesdeandesigns
If you want to help but do not want to become a Patreon, you con contribute directly:
www.paypal.me/...
Some product links I use are affiliate links. This means they do not cost you any more but I might make a small commission in return which helps towards making these videos.
UPDATE: I didnt mention in the video but I rotated the spindle 180 degrees to put less pressure on the connections
Are you able to some comparisons on how loud different spindles are? I’ve got a 3018 and I think I’m at the limits of the standard spindle. Would love to get something that is as quiet on a budget.
Also with UGS is there a way to get a ‘frame’ button like laser software like light burn?
Can you also maybe do a video on working out feeds and speeds?
Sorry for all of the questions
@@mcbeardface I can tell you it's super quiet compared to the 3018, but I also find that with the 4030XL and the 4040-XE. Something about those little 60w spindles on the 3018s make them noisier than the 300w spindles.
As.for the frame button 🤔 not sure. I know Openbuilds can do it but don't recall seeing it in UGS
I have a question regarding this particular cnc machine, I am new to CNC machines I plan on purchasing one within the next month but before I do my question is is there any way to upgrade the surface area or to make your work space within the CNC machine bigger.
So I guess my question is is there any way that I can later down the road purchase upgrades that could increase the amount of space that I have available to work with this particular CNC machine or would I have to ultimately invest a bit more money to get a higher quality bigger surface area CNC machine.
Now I usually work with laser and graber's that is like my thing I my thing I some time ago probably well over a year ago now have obtained a laser engraver machineAnd I have pretty much mastered every element of it and I have figured out the INS and outs of how to use that properly and safely.
They only have 2 concerns regarding CNC machines can you upgrade an existing CNC machine it's been mainly regarding surface area that you can work with and can you upgrade it to make it more powerful so that you can engrave anything and everything.
I mind as well ask is there any actual danger to using a CNC machine is there any particular things that a unexperienced person should look for while using a CNC machine.
It's not new to using different types of machinery and tools and I know that there are very basic tools that a person can use and still get severely injured so I'm trying to make sure is there anything in particular that people should pay attention to while using machines like a CNC machine especially considering the fact that I have never used the CNC machine I've used table saws mitersaws I've used a lot of woodworking tools and I worked with laser and gravers so that is my field of experience but I don't know very much about CNC machines.
It's trying to see if there's any way that you may have an existing video on your channel about safety precautions and just basic knowledge or if you were to be kind enough to make a video in the future maybe for the unexperienced viewers such as myself if you were willing thank you very much.
@@JamesDeanDesigns 68 decibels on engraving, but no example of routing.. which is what most people buy these things for..
@@Ashpari You should be able to upgrade the machine to a 3040 by buying the extension kit compatible with the 3018, although you might have to drill and tap some custom holes to make it all work and fit, and it will not be helpful to the machines rigidity so if you're looking at a 30x40 work surface, you would be better off buying one instead of trying to upgrade a 3020.
The biggest dangers with CnC routers/engravers for newbies is that the dust can be incredibly harmful to your health (think fiberglass), if the spindle jams it can catch on fire from the heat buildup and your workpiece might not be secured properly which can result in it flying off. Also the bits (tools) can be quite sharp (they are designed for cutting after all) and you can cut yourself very badly with one if you don't pay attention. Lastly the power supply is chinese without any proper safety certification so be attentive that the machine can fail deadly like short live to ground or for example the upgrade 500W power board has a speed dial that could be referenced to live, so you could get a very nasty shock if you use it and touch ground at the same time.
Basically, never leave the machine running unattended, don't "autopilot" and use the e-stop (or preferably, remove power alltogether) to make sure the machine is safe when handling it and make sure you understand how the electronics inside work and if you can check it before operating one.
Also the fan on the motor seems to be unbalanced for a lot of people which could introduce a lot of excessive wear&tear and noise while using, you should take off the fan and balance it before using the machine a lot.
I just unboxed mine today, some changes are as follows: No T-nits for gentry, thy have pre-drilled holes now. It has a Y-Axis cable protector so you can route the limit switch in the inside rail of the base.
I took off the mount for the Y-Axis limit switch and put the wire in the gap behind the bracket. less likely for it to get damaged. I had problems running the wire out the back for the Y-Axis limit switch. I ended up drilling a hole in the back of the frame so it would not interfere with the base movement. Added a P-Clip to one of the back rail bolts and drilled 2 holes on the side of the gentry and added 2 more P-Clips to secure the Y-Axis wire.
Thank you for making this video. I'm new to CNC and your information videos are essential. I just bought the Sainsmart 3020 Pro Max and the one change they made since this video is they drilled and tapped the holes for the gantry, so there are no slot nuts or measuring 13 mils from the end. But they also included a length of rubber with no instruction on what it is for. Since it fits in the milled slots on the base, I used it to secure the y-axis limit switch wire along the underside of the bed. Their instructions for the offline controller are confusing and lack basic explanations for new users.
Your reviews are very thorough and comprehensive👍
I got the 3020 Plus. Giving it a test drive. Looks good for it's value. Will use for PCB making. Will update how well it goes to ones 6 times more cost.
Late for comment, but I just purchased this unit and my machine came with the threaded holes for the gantry already drilled on the extruded rails, no need for the little t-nuts on the channel, nice and easy process now. Thank you so much for this video, very helpful, appreciated 👍.
Excellent. Good to see they are still making improvements
@@JamesDeanDesigns Sorry to bother, one more detail, minor I would say. For the Y motor cable that goes goes under the plate and you suggested to put it into one channel of the inside of the right rail and use tape or other trick to keep it in place, they provided a rubber like tube that you pushed into the channel to secure and sort of hide the cable from view, I'm surprised with this machine, not expensive but a solid performance, again, thank you, decided to buy it after watching your video. Respect.
@@marcoss6212 don't say sorry. You're providing me with useful updates 👍
Now you need to do a video showing the expansion kit!👍😀
I've been looking at getting my first hobby CNC machine that can handle small aluminium projects. Your video has convinced me to get this when it becomes available in the UK! Love your videos can't wait for more on this model!
Excellent. Hopefully it won't be too long before they release it here
Awesome video! I can't wait for the 4th axis table!
Me too 👍
Looks like an awesome, great machine. I just bought the 3018PROver, extension kit, spoilboard extension kit, and 20k motor. Thanks James for the video tutorials... I set up my machine based on your specs... keep up the good work! We need a good video describing which programs you need to use to make 2d/2.5d vs 3d projects...and something to explain the different file types, how to work with them... it's not very easy to figure out as a new user...
James has already done a video looking at several programs which can be used for carving and engraving if that's the sort of thing you want to make.
Hi Kevin, of you've not already seen it then this is the video Paula is on about. Hope it helps
ruclips.net/video/EMI97Rcb0bQ/видео.html
It would be very easy to make an L bracket to screw/bolt/rivet to the side of the machine to re position the E Stop so it is facing forward, therefore making it more accessible and visible as well as getting the terminals away from the work area, while still keeping the wiring more or less correct and out of the way. Cheers, mate. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Ron. Probably going to do that my self to be honest
As long as it doesn't obstruct the bed mounts/rails etc. I would have thought the E-Stop on the front rail where it's easily accessible
Linear rails on the x axis only secured with two T nuts per rail. I had an issue were some bolts came loose and fell out as they were only barely screwed into the aluminium rail without T nuts. I have added T Nuts to all bolts now.
TYVM for the heads up on UGS!!!!
Actually im only missing the white large clip of that extension to the spindle... Somehow i lost it... Do love this machine.
I recently bought the 20w Genmitsu L8 max pro - just learning how to use it!!
Hello, I have followed your video up until the section where you navigate the spindle, the spindle moves on the computer but not on the actual machine itself, I double check the connections twice, I don't know what's wrong, none of the fans are running when I turn on the machine, it just dead, any advice?
I found the issue, the emergency stop was pressed, needed to release it, for the machine to become operational again.
Its amazing how many times I knock that switch and dont realise. Glad you found it
Bless you for this quality tutorial
That looks like they've fixed all the issues that irritate me and constantly make me want to upgrade. Pretty awesome that it will cleanly mill aluminium right out of the box. Thanks for a concise but comprehensive review.
But I'm not buying another one for just another 20mm of Y axis, and presumably the 3018 extender kit is not compatible because the Y runners are now thicker. If they had a version with longer parts for a 400mm Y axis they'd already have had an order from me.
Totally agree about the stop switch - the moment i saw it my eyes rolled about it poking into the work area. Most of my failed mills are due to unexpected collisions, the work area needs to be kept clear of everything. ES needs to be on the top.
I suspect (but don't know) they might bring out an extension kit later in the same way they have for other machines
The location of the e-stop is easily fixed with a 3D printed part. The main problem I have is with the +$70% higher price over the similar size 3018 PROVer. So remove the $180 Cervero 1yr sub and that becomes a $399 machine by Thanksgiving IMO.
@@TheNature101 linear square bearings, full metal z axis, larger extrusions holding it all together, 300w spindle, 48v machine - I think it is priced right at $549.
@@bestyoutubernonegraternumber1 You are 11 months too late... inflation took care of that...
Thank you!! This was perfect... I am wondering if you can tell him if I can buy the one wire with the white larger clip on it that attaches to the spindle? The longer there... And does this come with a DVD? Or you said a stick? Thanks Sherri
Are there any links to a ready-made Z-axis upgrade to work with rails on similar machines? (I have 3018 MAX Metal)
P.S. Putting rails is not a problem, the most difficult thing is to make adapters for rail carriages.
can a bigger router be used, can the jobs/time in 3d carving be shorten an is there a off line control, so dont have to have net or pc to do the jobs?
Wanna to have a size 3018or3020 size 800w spindle capable to kill aluminum at height 3”, any recommend?
So, I purchased this model a couple of weeks ago, building it was a breeze, I learnt a lot from watching the many videos by James including the correct direction of the bed and the one discussing the $3 command for altering the direction of the stepper motors, but I have a conflicting software/hardware issue, can anyone who has had this issue assist as I have also tried to resolve this in configuration software but it loops such that it doesn't let me adjust the direction. I installed the limit switches as per this video at 12:51 namely X-limit near the stop switch, Y-limit front of the unit, Z-limit top of the spindle. The steppers and limit switches are plugged in as described at 19:00, I've rewired this three times now because of this issue and have labelled the cables at both ends with their direction (x,y,z) and function (step/limit). I can connect with ease to the PC, and when I use the 'Jog' arrows (in any of the programs, Easel, Candle, UGS) etc, the 'X' right or (+) the spindle carriage moves towards the 'stop' switch, likewise jog left or (-) and it moves left. When I use the 'Y' jog buttons, the table moves towards me when I tab forward or (+) and towards the back of the machine when I tap back or (-), and the spindle is raised when I tap the up or '+' and lowered when I tap the down or '-', and when I used the offline controller it functions as above, correctly. Here is the problem, in that respect it's as perfect as a Swish watch.
When I 'Home' the machine the bed travels towards the back of the machine (where there are no limit switches and crashes and chatters), and the 'X' rail travels to the left, away from it's limit switch (where it chatters and growls at me). I have reinstalled the firmware twice now, I have adjusted the $3 command using all the figures but doing so either makes no difference or screws up another setting. As there are holes for the limit switches on the other side of the X and Y sides, I have also placed the limit switches here, so the X was on the side away from the 'Stop' button, and the 'Y' was at the front of the machine. That allowed me to home the machine, but my working limit was reduced by about 30mm on the Y axis and the machine/software would often report an alarm of varying reports from a non start or soft limit reached (even when in UGS they machine set up they were turned off) and no, I don't know why, by this point figures for X/Y were in negatives sometimes.
So, what could be causing it to function correctly using 'Jog' commands, but failing to home correctly. I can only print the Genmitsu test file if shortly after I run it I press the 'Stop' button as it nears the left side of the machine (or it crashes and the X motor does it's funky noise), then pull out the 'Stop' switch for it to mill, by which time I've lost half the 'G'... So, where am I going wrong? I've tried the individual zeroing of X/Y and the Z I've used a Z Probe.
$1 = 25 (Step idle delay, milliseconds)
$0 = 10 (Step pulse time, microseconds)
$2 = 7 (Step pulse invert, mask)
$3 = 2 (Step direction invert, mask)
$4 = 0 (Invert step enable pin, boolean)
$5 = 0 (Invert limit pins, boolean)
$10 = 115 (Status report options, mask)
$6 = 0 (Invert probe pin, boolean)
$11 = 0.010 (Junction deviation, millimeters)
$12 = 0.002 (Arc tolerance, millimeters)
$13 = 0 (Report in inches, boolean)
$20 = 0 (Soft limits enable, boolean)
$21 = 1 (Hard limits enable, boolean)
$22 = 1 (Homing cycle enable, boolean)
$23 = 3 (Homing direction invert, mask)
$24 = 25.000 (Homing locate feed rate, mm/min)
$25 = 500.000 (Homing search seek rate, mm/min)
$26 = 250 (Homing switch debounce delay, milliseconds)
$27 = 1.000 (Homing switch pull-off distance, millimeters)
$30 = 12000 (Maximum spindle speed, RPM)
$32 = 0 (Laser-mode enable, boolean)
$31 = 0 (Minimum spindle speed, RPM)
$100 = 800.000 (X-axis travel resolution, step/mm)
$101 = 800.000 (Y-axis travel resolution, step/mm)
$102 = 800.000 (Z-axis travel resolution, step/mm)
$110 = 1000.000 (X-axis maximum rate, mm/min)
$111 = 1000.000 (Y-axis maximum rate, mm/min)
$112 = 600.000 (Z-axis maximum rate, mm/min)
$120 = 30.000 (X-axis acceleration, mm/sec^2)
$121 = 30.000 (Y-axis acceleration, mm/sec^2)
$122 = 30.000 (Z-axis acceleration, mm/sec^2)
$130 = 300.000 (X-axis maximum travel, millimeters)
$131 = 180.000 (Y-axis maximum travel, millimeters)
$132 = 70.000 (Z-axis maximum travel, millimeters)
$3 adjust the general travel directions, so make sure that is set correctly, but $23 adjusts the homing direction with the exact same principle. So adjust that one until it homes in the direction you want it to
Many thanks for your reply @@JamesDeanDesigns I also found this video just as valuable as your own ruclips.net/video/5vaAthrJQm0/видео.html
That's good production.
Thank you 🙏
Selam bu makinayla birlikte lazer başlık ta geliyormu
I fail to understand why the linear bearings are so close to each other on these machines. look at the clip at 7:06. by spacing them more, the table will have less play. Are they like that because of travel limits?
Nice but the important bits are missing.
Does it have play in the axis, backlash? How the vibration when milling aluminium.
No, the backlash nuts are secured now taking the slack out of it. No vibrations (other that what's expected) when working on the aluminium either. I havent pushed it that hard yet but certainly a huge step forward
nice video
Any word if an upgraded version 2 3020 Pro Max is coming?
How do you find it while cutting alloy? Does the alloy get hot and the shavings stick on the main piece? Did you have to use a compressor to blow away the shavings?
If you get your feeds and speeds right then it's fine. For for example I was cutting the other day with a 300w spindle, 1/8th O flute DLC bit, 450mm/min feed, 0.3mm depth of cut and a 1.5mm stepover. Cutting super easy, no melting and no air assist required. It is a slow speed but equally the quality of the cut is great and no melting
Hi James, have you ever created a spoilboard for this CNC? I have been following all your 3018, 3020 and 3040 series and I decided to go with the 3020 as a starter cnc. I would definitely be interested in buying the files for a spoilboard for this machine if you have created them. Thank you
Question maybe you can point me in the direction. I want to increase the y travel. I know I can buy the Aluminum Extrusion to length. But I would need to buy 2 guide rods and 1 ball screw. Can you tell me what the orginal length of the guide rods are and the ball screw? I have seen that there is an upgrade for the 3018 buyt cant find one for the 3020. Thanks!
Have you done any testing on a MYSWEETY 4030 PRO. Still looking for a good machine that is priced well.
Thank you James for this amazing video. My question is how to ture this machine to rotary ??? Thank you
I am looking for an affordable mill which is precise enough to also do PCB milling for SMD parts. Can I expect sub millimeter precision out of the box on this one? How much outrun does the spindle have? Is the ER collet screwed on the same way as on the 3018s (flattened shaft) or does this spindle have a thicker shaft? What I'd also like to see is the 4th axis add on and doing some brass gear milling. That would be cool.
Hi James, Thanks for all of your videos. I have this Genmitsu 3020 pro max and i cant figure out how to get it to start carving where i want it to. I am using Easel and UGS and when i hit the start button the spindle moves to wherever it wants and then starts carving. Could you help me on this? Thanks
Anyone know if one can engrave scrollwork on metal with this ?
hello, i just assembled the 3020 pro following your video of setup , i got to the memory stick for the software part of this video and plugged in the stick and i says folder is empty , im extremely upset , this software setup without the memory stick seems impossible no com ports says driver file was installed and nothing works
Let us know the follow-up, I am sitting here with my credit card ready, on hold now.
I'm not a fan of that emergency stop button. It really should be on the front of the machine or moveable, if you're placing the CNC inside an enclosure. Does the E-stop kill the power to the machine or does it only send a stop signal? Preferably it would do both.
I think this machine is just what i want as my next machine, cant afford it at the moment so i was thinking of getting a Genmitsu Aluminum Z Axis Spindle Motor Mount, 300-500W Spindle Holder, 52mm Diameter for 3018-PROVer/PROVer Mach3/MX3, what do u think of this machine and will i be able to use easel with it
Thanks for the well done video. The online information says: The control board and spindle holder still support the upgrade to 600W spindle - Does this mean it will accept a Dewalt or Makita router?
I dont think so. I believe its referring to a 600w spindle of the same diameter which I think is 52mm off the top of my head where as a Dewalt is 69mm and makita is 65mm
I knew you had fingerprints on a real machine!!
Definitely brilliant thought & engineering gone into this, I thought it a beauty when it was first hinted at, having previously seen a competitor ProMAX machine video, I knew SainSmart had to match it, better it or lose out!.
68dB can be improved with an enclosure. We heard it as quiet possible that your recording software automatically levelled & toned our excess. I wonder if it's extra dimension will fit in the enclosure that SainSmart sell??
Hi James
What laser module is best to be added to this machine?
Thanks
Can this machine cut silver and gold plates? I am looking for a machine that cuts letters as pendants. What do you recommend to buy?
Good afternoon, tell me where to download the installation file and programs for the machine?
You mentioned that the y-axis rods have been increased to 12mm. Has the z-axis rods been increased also?
I believe they have but its as part of the entire Z assembly upgrade which is why I didn't specifically reference their size. I can double check the diameter tomorrow though
Very nice!! Thank you!!
Nice upgrade but I am surprised they didn't make it bigger. Make me think a bigger one will be next..
I did wonder that myself initially but this is really geared towards metal and to my knowledge people who do metal typically don't need as much space
@@JamesDeanDesigns I have a self designed and scratch built 24 x 36 machine built from 1/2" plate aluminum. All Ball screws with 1" steel rod "ways" and Nema 23's with a 1.25 HP DeWalt Router motor on it. But I do see the place for a smaller machine. Larger size does lead to thicker and more costly materials. I think they were after the price point and a market not well covered by other brands. Even if you have no interest in cutting metal rigid and reliable works for everything.
Hi James,
Thank you for your videos, especially the 3020 ProMax video. You mentioned the you would include in the notes how to install a z-probe for this machine. Where can i find that?
Any luck using this on stainless?
I've really been looking at getting a CNC of some sort to try and learn the tech since my current experience is in 3d printing. When I went to the site you linked, they don't seem to ship to the UK, any idea how I'd be able to get one here?
They ship to their USA warehouses first then UK and Europe which is understandable. Give it a few weeks and it should be available
hi pal are you from uk just had look on line to see where you can buy 3020 pro max and look like you can only buy it in USA is that right are can you buy over here in uk
That box is heavy! You are a super human to just pick it up like that as though it was empty! Lol!
Before they came out with this, when I got my 3018 pro and was thinking of a simple design to upgrade the X axis to linear rail, it's exactly how this is designed. Lol. I also bought a Z axis assembly similar to that. I plan to upgrade the Y axis to linear rails aswell to give it more rigidity. With this product you already have some of the upgrades I've done built in but my motor is 800w.
Sounds like you're building a beast of a machine. Nice one 👍
Could it be that the pre-built base was put together wrong regarding the odd place for the limit switch?
Excelente, muchas gracias por compartir.
Looking at the machine on their website (I wanted first off to see the current price), I see that they are showing the control circuit board in an orientation that's 180 degrees different from the way you mounted it.
We might be looking at different things but all the photos I'm looking at have it mounted the same way as I have done in my video. To be honest it doesn't make any difference though
I will recieve this machine next week and wonder how do you set this up in Fusion 360 ? Do you just use the generic machine setting ?
thanks for this video, i was looking at ProVerXL 4030 cnc but it is maybe a bit to big for me. The upgraded 3018 with 300w spindle is to heavy for the X axis rods. And the added end stops keeps geving me false alarm. One day i can use my vinyl cutter flawless and the other day the knive dives to deep into the material. It is just not firm enough. I am in europe and the early bird option is not availeble :-( this looks like the machine for me.
Is it posible to make an extension of the z-axys? I want to put a piece that is 12 cm height, so i need to extend the cnc.
You would need new side plates , or extensions to them in order to raise it up but yes, it is possible
I see that also, I want to get a small Kurt vice or toolmakers vice to hold things, going to need a taller side rails when I pull the trigger.
James, I recently purchased one of these machines in July. So far so good. I would like to use it (and my Prover XL 6060 I purchased a year ago) with Fusion 360. Can you point me in the right direction regarding setting up these two SainSmart CNCs with Fusion 360? Is there anything special that I need to do to the generated g-code if I am running Candle? Thanks for your excellent videos.
Hi James,
I have also recently purchased the 3020 and intend using it mostly for Name Plate engraving. I am struggling to find a cheap suitable software that will do Text in the format for Name Plates and ID Tags
. The Easel software seams a bit basic for my needs. Can you recommend any. Cheers from Mark in Australia..
do you know how to do simple text on a key tag. like my name and vehicle number without all the outlines
You're probably wanting to use things called single line fonts. I imagine these will work better for what you need
Aluminum is the true way
Can a 65mm be added to the 3020 pro?
Yes but you need to replace the entire carriage as it won't fit in the original holder
Is there a follow up video on how well (or not) this cuts thin plate aluminum? I'm very close to pressing BUY on amazon, haha. I do understand there will be a few upgrades in order.
Hi Mike.
I havent had chance to do a followup yet. It will be coming next year. TechyDIY did a review of this machine and he went into a bit more detail on the aluminium. If you're on Facebook, checkout the Sainsmart group. Graham Bland did a written review in there. It can cut aluminium but it's about getting the right speeds
With improvements like linear rails on the x, where do you see the current weakest link as far as machine performance, namely in cutting aluminum?
Definitely the spindle motor is the main bottle neck in that regard, I have recently purchased this machine, haven’t received it yet. I wonder if it could take a VFD system with some redesigning of the Z axis and a more powerful stepper. It’d probably handle aluminium quite well with that set up.
Thanks for this video. Can I set this CNC up (e.g. measure the Z axis) and operate it without a computer? With the Offline-Controller. Maybe you can make such an informative video about it too.
Yes, this actually comes with an offline controller. You can run jobs and things like that from offline controller but some more advance thing you will need to do from a laptop/pc
thank you very much,
is it good for pcbs?
I cant say I've tested for PCBs but in theory, yes it is good for them
Great helpful setup. I have just received my machine today and when trying to install the driver from the memory stick I get an error message driver install failure? Do you know what I can do or why this is happening. I have contacted sainsmart just now so hope to get a reply soon. Neil
You may have a faulty driver on the memory stick, you can always download a new one from the Sainsmart resource website. Also, it will sometimes fail if your USB cable is not connected as you are installing the driver
What are the alternatives to Sainsmart Genmitsu 3020 Pro Max at similar prices?
I think the FoxAlien Masuter is a similar price. Bigger work area, but less powerful spindle and smaller frame extrusion www.foxalien.com/collections/cnc-router/products/cnc-router-machine-masuter?sca_ref=725103.t6qfXeHAnx
Hi James. I love your videos. They are all very informative. I plan to buy my 1st cnc (newbie alert) and this video has convinced me that it has to be the Sainsmart Genmitsu 3020 Pro Max. My question is, I have noticed you have made a few changes to the machine since this video, other than a still picture I cant find any info on what you did to it. Can you please let me know what you did. What are the green strips, where did you get them from, what did you do with the emergency stop button, did you change the cable management and anything else you would recommend. Also how is the machine one year on. Do you still like it. Thank you in advance.
Great news. I put the machine into an small enclosure so I moved all the electronics to the outside. Also you can gain a little bit of extra work area by adjusting the limit switches positions. Not much space but at least a few millimeters. I think that was all I really modified on it
Thank you. I like the green strips you’ve added. What are they and where did you get them from. Thanks
Hi there, great channel, thanks for all your work…this question has probably been asked but I can’t see it, can this CNC Machine engrave stainless steel, like watch straps and case backs please?
I cant say I've tested it but it can probably do it with very shallow passes.
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks James 🙏😊
Great Video James, if you are going to do a video later w/ aluminum any thoughts of giving brass a try as well? Thanks!
I'm hoping to. I need to get back onto doing more with this machine.
Thanks for the great video. what bit were you using when you did the aluminum cuts?
Just a standard 20 degree V bit
Was this more solid than the 3018 PROver? I am trying to pick between them, and I would love to be able to machine a small amount of aluminum (fairly thin sheets) and some thicker carbon fiber. Is there a machine around the same price bracket you'd recommend more?
Yes, this is more solid than the 3018 Prover. In this price range, its probably the most solid machine you are going to get
@@JamesDeanDesigns Ok, thank you!
knobs check, nuts check, inserts (blushes). nice we machine that
:)
Great video again James. Do you know if this takes the 3040 extension kit and, if it does, would it degrade it? Thanks
No, the extrusion is 4040 as opposed to the standard ones which are 2040 I believe. So I suspect there will need to be a new extension kit for this one
Hi James, could you give me the actual dimensions of the cardboard box it came in please, (for shipping cost) sainsmart don't seem to know..
They come from China and they are currently on a national holiday which may be the reason they can't get it measured. Box is roughly 520 x 440 x 320
Can you added a bed extender for the 3020 or the 3020?
There is no extension kit currently available for this but it would be possible if you bought the individual parts
@@JamesDeanDesigns Is that from the Manufacturer or 3rd party?
Hi James, which machine would you recommend/prefer for making small aluminium parts between this machine the 3020 pro max and the PROVerXL 4030. I'm converting a milling machine to cnc, similar in size to the PM30MV and to save having to disassemble, measure, reassemble and make the parts on the machine I would prefer to have another machine to save time. Are there any other machines around the same price that may fit the bill. Thanks and thanks for the great informative videos you make.
Hi Derek, if they are just small parts then I would probably stick with the 3020. But like all things buy the best you can afford so if you can afford the ProverXl then I would probably go that way because it gives you more options and a bigger machining area.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks James, Yes they are only small parts so have no problem with either. Once my conversion is done I will have a similar work area as the 4030 but obviously a much more rigid machine as its all cast iron, cutting steel is no problem(within reason). Basically I would like to know which is the most rigid of the 2, I also have an Eleksmaker A30 laser so that side is also covered. Thanks
@@JamesDeanDesigns I eventually went with the 3020 Pro Max, one difference in the building is the whole gantry assembly is no longer fastened with T nuts, the holes are pre drilled and threaded in the outer frame so the gantry position is almost perfect from the outset, you do get a very small amount of wiggle room in order to help trim the spindle perfectly. Unfortunately it sat in the box for over a year due to health problems, now overcome and the machine is up and running. Thanks for all you do to help the community.
Does the machine work on stainless steel?
I didnt test it with stainless so difficult to say. The frame should be capable of handling it but might need a higher torque motor
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you for the answer ! I can't figure this out before buying.
I am curious if this CNC could cut aluminum panels at thicknesses of .08" .063" & .040" if you think this could handle that job please let me know, I just want to bring my business 100% in house.
It will. Probably take multiple passes but it will machine through it
@@JamesDeanDesigns Do you think those more basic $199 bakelight based similar 3020 systems would fair as well machining aluminum? Do I need the stops?
Hi there
Not sure about this so asking. Can the machine do auto levelling? Reason being I would like to use one for pcb milling. Do you think it is suitable?
Great video
Auto-levelling is implemented in the Gcode sender (which is running on your PC or laptop) on a GRBL machine rather than on the machine itself. The reason I ditched UGS in favour of bCNC is because I never managed to get UGS auto-levelling to work. So as long as you use a Gcode sender which has a working auto-levelling function then you'll be fine.
Yes auto levelling can be achieved but uses the Z probe in order to carry it out I believe. Not 100% on this but I believe you can make upgrade/modifications that allow levelling without the probe.
As for software I believe UGS should be able to do this but haven't personally tested it my self. However as Paula mentions there are other options
@@JamesDeanDesigns James you don't use the Z probe when auto-levelling. You connect to the bit and also connect to the copper surface of the PCB board. Good luck trying to get it work in UGS. I couldn't make it work and net searches led me to conclude that it's broken and the developer doesn't seem to have shown any interest in fixing it. If it were the only FOSS option available I'd have fixed it myself (I've got 2 decades of commercial experience as a Java software engineer) but I've been around long enough to know that if the original developer won't fix a broken piece of code then it's probably because it's unfixable without rewriting a significant amount of the code base. Fortunately for us there are other FOSS options available and I've gone for bCNC.
@@paulathomas4944 thank you. I've only seen the auto levelling done on none conductive material where the z probe is used to track it. Ive never done PCB's before but that makes sense now you have mentioned it.
Hi James - first many thanks for your excellent videos as a retired "Old Geezer" I do need very detailed instructions!😂 - I have decided to get a CNC machine and I was looking at the Vevor 3018 Pro Max at £238 and that includes the 15w Laser - BUT.. having watched this video (and quite few of your other videos) I'm thinking this might be a better bet - I like the fact that its all metal - I'm only using it for a hobby and to make some toys for a local charity - what do you think is this overkill or just the job? One last question - what's the benefit of a 15/20 w Laser over a 5.5w?
Hi Geoff, think I replied earlier on Facebook about the 3018 Pro. This machine is great but obviously another good step up price wise and not available I'm in the UK yet. But can cut faster and deeper so the 19mm boards you were on about, this could probably cut 2-3 times faster. General rule is buy your second machine first or at least buy the best you can afford so if this isin price range and ticks all the boxes then go for it. As for the laser, manufactures are a little sneaky. They sometimes advertise the input power but output power is the true value. So the 15w laser is more like tha 4w and the 20w is the equivalent of a 5.5w. Usually they put it in the fine print but generally speaking anything listed as 10w or above will be the input value, output is usually around 1/3 to 1/4 of that
How frustrating James...the bit I'm really interested in, you skipped over. On the last demo, how did you align the V bit on the exact same start point as the roughing bit and run the second file?
Hi Phil, assuming your wood is flat, change the bit over and navigate off to the side of the material where it hasn't been touched. At that point reset ONLY the Z axis either manually or with a Z probe. Then click return to zero, it should return to the centre and drop down to the correct height before you start
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks James, I'll give it a go
Can it mill aluminium?
It can. You still have to take it steady but it will do it
How long did it take for the machine to do your logo? Thank you for the video as always you are awesome.
It took about 2 hours but I think I could have increased the speeds quite a bit
👍
Almost 40 minutes and no aluminum was tested.
So you didn't watch the whole video.
the truth. is actually aluminum.
I bet you that same 3020 Pro Max CNC machine without the Cervero $180 1 year sub, becomes a $399 CNC machine by Thanksgiving. Cause let's face it, the 3020 is just a 3018 PROVer with just a bit more metal parts and a better motor. And I would pay $100 more than the 3018 PROVer. But +$200 (or almost +70% more than the 3018 PROVer) I will not, cause I don't need the $180 Cervero 1year sub.
Thats just the early bird bundle. You can buy the machine on its own, it only shows me in pounds but comes up about £350 if I remember correctly. We're all going to have our thoughts on this but to say its just the Prover with a few extra bits is a real understatement. The volume of the cutting area is nearly 3 times as much, the power of the spindle is nearly 7 times more than the Prover. That's before taking the other bits into account. I think of this had been released before the Prover, more people would have gone for this but I get what you're saying for those who already have the Prover
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for your comment and the many great videos. They are awesome. And don't get me wrong. I think the 3020 Pro Max is a great machine at 300x200x72mm. I just don't think is a +70% higher price than the PROVer, type of a great machine. The 45mm thickness of material have never been a problem with me. Yes the ProMax can do 72mm but I will probably never use something that thick. Other than that, the size of the 2 are similar. Especially when you compare with other ALL METAL CNC 3018 Pro Max machines like the Cenoz at $230-250 and working area of 300mmx180mmx45mm
On the issue of power, you mentioned 7x more power. Since I looked for data on the motor and I can't find any, can you be more specific on the numbers of the motor? I'm especially interested on torque and speed but I will take Amps and Watts (I think it's just 300W @12K RPM, so I don't know how you get 7x more power than a 200W@10K RPM 775 motor) if you have them. Thanks.
@@TheNature101 the website has been updated since I last checked which is why we're having slightly different conversations I think. it's still slightly confusing as the machine-only and bundle price are showing the same for me which is $499 but its now showing the standard price to be $709 🤔
This video is pretty subpar, you don't mention the $550 price tag, the runout of the spindle, flexing of the motor or frame, the type of motor, or how loud it is. I think you have alot you can improve on to make this a better video.
Thanks for the feedback
I think you need your head read. Video was very informative better than any of the others I have seen. Price and decibel levels are mentioned. You obviously didn’t watch the whole video. Go check the manufactures website if you want the type of motor. Great work James.
I know English says different. but the truth is American way
Is there a way I can private message
Im on Instagram and Facebook