On the cam retainer, I've always used a transfer punch for the first hole, chamfered it, then tapped it, cleaned it out, bolted the plate back on, checked it for cam clearance, then repeated the second hole. Always works.
I would also like to add that the top of the lifter bores is supposed to be milled flat and into the upper valley itself to allow correct clearance and a flat surface for the lifter anti rotation plates. This is one often over looked process. Some blocks came done while others did not.
I realize this is a older video , one thing is the lifters in the down position will set slightly lower in the dog bones . This is normal as the top of lifter bore is not machined flat . The lifter should still have about 3/16 engagement into the dog bone and will work just fine. I have done this several times and had zero issues . Do not use a small or reduced base circle camshaft.
If you guys do this with the engine in the vehicle use a round speaker magnet to surround the boss while drilling and use grease on the tap to catch the chips, then use a scribe with a small magnet on the end to remove any excess chips.
Myvintageiron7512 Hey bud I have a factory stock 95 stick shift Silverado with a 5.7 350 tbi ,what cam can i put on, and what else can I modify besides getting a better fuel pump ??
This is an older video, but I'm throwing in my own interesting experience anyway. I have a 1989 TBI block and I'm working on a roller cam conversion for it in my truck. I learned the hard way that if you're not doing this in a machine shop, and your holes ARE pre-drilled, make sure to clean any oil out of those spider bosses before threading in a bolt. If your engine didn't have a spider installed there before and you're converting it without a full engine teardown/cleanup, then as the engine ran it probably filled up those holes with oil and created a unique situation specific to adding bolts that weren't there before. I didn't think anything about it and assumed the oil would just act as a lube as I threaded in a bolt, and the first two bolts pushed the oil out just fine. The third hole had just a little too much crud in the threads to allow the oil to escape, so the hydrostatic pressure ended up busting out the boss. There's no one in my area that specializes in brazing cast iron blocks and machine shops refused to touch it, so I ended up using a brass battery terminal as a band-aid for the boss. My bad experience aside though, an interesting thing someone online pointed out to me is that my spider bosses were drilled off-center. His thought is that the drilled holes were probably a victim of core shift, and the factory probably sent it to the flat tappet assembly line as a result. It would be interesting to know if the imperfectly manufactured roller provisions in these 87-95 blocks did play a role in deciding which blocks were used in roller cam applications and which ones were dedicated to flat tappet.
Good point. I have one of those flat tappet roller blocks in my 87 silverado. It was a rebuilt/ replacement engine at some point and has about 3k miles on it. There are currently bolts in those holes but no spider plate. Im looking to convert to roller myself, I'll be careful about that part now that you brought it up.
ohhh fuck yeah ! i just got a 91 silverado with 5.7 , im gonna do this ! i know a machinist in my town that i drink beer and smoke dope with ! im sure hed give me a good deal
that look on your face in the end was priceless lol. it's interesting, even my 68 & 70 Olds 350s have those spider bosses drilled & taped even though olds blocks didn't use roller cams until 85. another weird thing is on the 68 the heat shield on the exhaust manifolds have circular cut outs in them for o2 sensors. it's crazy the stuff car companies play with years before their actually in use.
Sometimes those exhaust manifold holes weren't for oxygen sensors. They were for connecting an air pump into the exhaust system to reignite the unburnt fuel in the exhaust. From 1966 onwards, some engines had air pumps and some didn't based on the needs of the car. Auto manufacturers would put plugs in those locations if they were building engine with and without air pumps that year.
it was more to teach my son he hasn't been around a fuel pump. my point was you explain all that and that was the problem i ran into. love your channel. not a troll
I recently scored a #638 casting which is a 1994 casting - this one has the fuel pump hole drilled out (with the blockoff plate) and the spider boltholes r present but untapped
I have a #638 from my 95 that was like this without fuel pump hole either but not just that it only had 1 hole for a fuel pump cover plate instead of all 4. Not that u need a cover without the hole drilled but I like the looks of a cover over that ugly cut out lol
was reading in hot dog magazine a roller hydraulic setup give you 25 hp , that not bad :) no need to make my hot rod stranded steering and no AC , it even outs on power loss :) i love technology
I have one of these I took out of my 1990 350SS. I put a ZZ4 in it and wanted to convert it into a ZZ4 because its the same block but like this one it has a tiny hydraulic flat tappet cam. Now I just need to get the crank, rods, pistons, and cam/lifter/retaining set and im good to go.
Something that can save you a little time and headache if your doing this alot is making setup pins by turning down capscrews to the dia of the holes in the plates ,you can get the holes centered to under +/- .005 or better . such a good thing to see mockup in the machining /layout /blueprinting this can't be driven home enough , if your going to spend thousands or more and want the motor to live at high rpm's , awesome vid's
,,, yep,,, that cam had too much walk,,, already,,,. It will eat up timing chains real soon,,,. !!! Didn't like seeing the metal shavings going into the new cam and cam bearings,,,. !!! After Center punching,,, I would have removed the cam and then drilled and tapped,,. !!!
@@ricksimpson2167 he said in the start of the video that he had not done the final wash yet, and that the cam used during the drilling and tapping was not the one that was going to go in the motor....
I have a home made centering punch made from a 1" piece of 5/8 round rod. I tapered the end 75 degrees and drilled a 3/16 bore through it. I made the actual punch from a piece of 3/16 rod and heat treated it. It will find center through any hole less than 5/8". Would work great for this project.
I got a 350 tbi in my 91 c1500 there good motors but I ended up buying a LT1 350 from a 96 buick roadmaster for $400 I wanted to put a tbi intake on it but I was told I cant and just use a 4 barrel intake with a tbi plate adapter
Very cool to see a transition block like that. Guess they were rolling out the new castings already for the L31's before the model year was switched? And saving a few dollars by not machining the bosses that they didn't need to for that application.
hallis1 no usually these block were previously rejected for core shift I'd of had it sonic checked before I did any machining to it I did one at school and had to correct every cylinder on by slightly offsetting the boring bar if I had went straight inline with the deck I'd of been thin one side or the other on every cylinder some times the can bore is out of line to the main bore to you'll find that when you go to degree the camshaft because it can be as much as four degrees there tolerances were sloppy on the flat tappet blocks towards the last year's of the small block plus these blocks are low nickel and a lot lighter than the older blocks they took a lot of metal out of the castings of these blocks
the L31 (880) block will have a timing cover flange with the thicker lip 4 the plastic cover - this one seen is a 638 hybrid block in transition - note the upper bolt holes since it has the thick flanges where it was for the redesigned timing cover
@ Shane Singleton, I have these three year model 5.7L blocks with the last three block casting numbers of 638; 86, 88, and a 92 and everyone of them were fully machined for a roller cam.
The cars with the 5.7 had a roller cam , the trucks did not . The blocks were probably all cast the same , with the provision to add the rollers in the car applications.
I found a lot of k series up to 95, no holes, like the factory was getting ready for them, and some boat motor blocks too...most of these blocks were straight making for the better build if hot rod, street builds or Baja🏜️⛱️🤗🗜️🔩🔧⚙️📐📈
FYI the Weiand 8000 is the best manifold for the TBI as far as performance is concerned. I put one on my ZZ4 with a 1 inch 2 hole spacer to give the throttle body a little more length for better atomization of the fuel charge and clearance for the EGR breather. I put a K&N velocity stack on it to open up throttle body around the injectors to unshroud them. The Edelbrock TBI intake isnt much better than the stock TBI manifold and makes little if any power. The Weiand 8000 makes all kinds of power and is a much better manifold than the Edelbrock and the factory ZZ4 intake. I used the stock ZZ4 cam but I used Manley 44210 springs and 23652 retainers which gave me 130 lbs of seat pressure at 1.75 inches. I used crane narrow body roller rockers and 12497985 tall valve covers. This seems to work pretty well together and I have beat every truck Ive run with a vortec engine. A few have been beat so bad it was embarrassing.
Talking about weird engines I have a 12550313...454.......91-up...4-bolt, Gen.V crate motor, Gen. VI 4.25" bare block, fuel pump boss Is that consider gen 5 or gen 6 to shop for parts thank you and knowledge is gold 🙏
This may be very helpful. I'm actually trying to go backwards. picked up an 87 305, but didn't realize it was a roller cam. with the cost of upgrading the cam in a roller cam setup it will be cheaper to convert back to a flat tappet cam. currently in the process if figuring out if thats possible or not. I guess the only thing that is unknown, is if the timing gears will line up. Going to be doing measurements comparing from a 69 307 and the 87 305.
Myvintageiron7512 yep, after days of looking finally found the answer. Also find out it’s already flat tappet, I guess an el camino is considered a truck haha. Or because it’s still a carb motor, it wasn’t upgraded to a full roller cam.
the hole still there but not drilled all the way out , was switching back to carb to show my boy how and you can drill it out just like the plate you drilled if im not mistaken
Kewl video I do believe though when tapping cast iron you can use kerosene as a lube. I use a center drill drop the table lower and the recess in the back of your tap handle fits with centerdrill you can start the tap by hand then n be dead straight
Cast iron really doesn't need any lubricant for tapping. In my race shop I have a cooling light blast of air to keep the tooling cool whether it's a tap, drill, or end mill. Been doing it this way for 40 years, and on blocks that can't be replaced. Hopefully that helps. T.S. RACING
Do you have a video showing how to completely rebuild the oem roller block? I want to build a 383 stroker using an oem chevy block which I have. However I am so glad that you made this video because I didn't have a clue as to what those three tapped holes were for....the spider which holds the dog bones in place. The block did not come with the spider so I was totally confused. Thanks a million for this video.
not scared I would try it with a hand drill you should see my portable frame drill it's a piece of pipe and a piece of chain LOL cheap and easy only downfall is it takes a helper
We tried a 1998 Vortec 350 roller cam in a 1990 Chevy truck application. It started and ran good but didn't feel like it had the power to spin the tires in grass. I know it pulled the correct vacuum to work with the 1990 MAP sensor so I'm not sure what was holding it back.
Myvintageiron7512 I built The hodgepodge engine for a customer. 1995 350 factory roller block, 1998 Vortec cam, 1971 LT1 #492 2.02/1.60 heads. Topped off with the 1990 TBI and ignition... junk. It would have run much better with an HEI and a carburetor! lol. Thanks for the feedback JD
Factory vortec cams are not worth the metal they are made of they are made to work with a very specific OBD2 tune with the vortec fuel injection they do ot work well with TBI or carbs don't waste your time comp cams rollers are the only way to go
HeadFlowInc ive got a free pair of them heads nos. Ive been considering a cheap sbc build to throw them at. TBI and that cam would sign off about the time those heads came on line. Then theres compression issues with them big a$$ chambers. What did you use for pistons? I figure them heads would make a decent buck down 383 build but a guys really gonna have to pay attention to piston choice with them chambers
Bro the correct bolts for the cam plate are Torx and they are round and do NOT protrude up into the Cam gear . I myself personally would have Opted for the Torrington Bearing & cam button but I guess it's a preference ..If you went .040 over bore instead of the .030 would the net cubic inches be 396 ? of course using the same stroker kit you were going to use but swap for the .040 over pistons ?
Just pulled up pictures of the TBI 350 I semi-rebuilt for my '92 truck. My block is already drilled and tapped at these locations? I stumbled upon this video while looking for ways to get more power from my TBI 350.
Vintage I love your outtake here at the end of this video that was priceless , okay back to my comment I have an early small block Chevy if you want to convert to a roller cam , how do you keep the cam from walking back and forth in the Block , if you can please send me a link to one of your videos if you have a video to show how an early block is done . Thank you as always vintage I love watching your videos they're Priceless thank you .
You need a thrust button between the cam and the timing cover Cloyes sells a timing cover with a built-in thrust button part number 9-221 summit sells it, if you look at my 383 engine rebuild serious I am using a stand alone thrust button for cam end play
The "spider" spring hold down is designed that way to allow for slight movement of the lifter retainers. If you simply bolted them down, there is the possibility of lifter bind leading to premature wear. Edit: just realized your comment was 2 years old haha.
So With out tearing the 5.7 GMC K1500 Down is there any way to know if it came with a Roller I plan on rebuilding it About this time next yr II will not go back with a flt tap Roller or roller retro fit Would Vin indacate any way if it was roller --Ok I have lot of questions but That will do for now Thank you Dave @ Dad's Ole Garage
Hey man watching ur videos is like going to school I love them thank u so much for doing this. Funny I have a 89 tbi that has a flat tapped and doesn't even have the bosses for the spider crazy huh. Question thought ..what kind of heads can I use on this cuz the ones on it are junk!!! Thanks man ur awesome I am rebuilding this engine cuz of u and ur super informative videos
JUSTPEED ,,, do you want a higher RPM engine,,, with torque and horsepower coming in later,, ??? Or a lower RPM,, all torque and horsepower in by 4000 RPMs,,,, higher torque,,, and high miles per gallon,,. ??? A daily driver that can pull 4000 lb,, ???
How is the engagement of the dog bone to the follower when on lowest point on cam. The factory has the lifter bores machined down 100 odd thou. How those are left without machining them flat may be ok with a std base circle cam. But I would be really careful with a reduced base circle cam that the lifter doesn't drop down out of the dog bone and rotate.
I have a question if you might know I have the exact same set up.. except I added upgrades heads etc. Wondering if I should switch out the tbi and go carberator and different distributor etc. Or keep all that and find a different computer chip for it or will the computer accommodate the new parts etc. I hope makes semse. Any help appreciated thank you.. Troy
I would like to know if you did anything to the top of the lifter bores where the dog bones sit. I have a 95 TBI truck motor that is the same as in your video but did not here you mention anything about doing any machine work in this area or is it ok to leave as is. Thanks
I have a 94 firebird with the LT1 350 and I'm looking into getting a cam. I have a first gen cloyes timing set already installed ( no water pump gear) and electric water pump. Also have the 24x LS style coil packs and computer so i dont need the cam to spin the distributor either. I'm wondering if i can use first gen cams and/or flat tappet cams. Never did this before and im not an expert so ANY suggestions on a good street cam that isnt to expensive would be great. Shooting for close to 400 horse and 800 or less.
I have a 350 chevy that came in a boat as a volvo penta marine engine. the boat is a '92 is there a way to know if this engine has a flat tappet cam without pulling the intake? also do you think 25 hours of operation would be enough to damage the cam if it ran the wrong oil, ie non zink oil? because of this channel I now understand why i might have an issue. thanks for the videos
25 hours could definitely wipe out a flat tappet but remember it depends on whether or not the cam was run with high zinc oil in the past what the zinc does is embed itself into the cam lobe and makes a sacrificial layer of zinc between the lobe and the lifter this protects it if it has zinc embedded in the lobes it could last quite a while on low zinc oil however eventually the lifters will wear through the zinc layer and wipe out the cam this is why it's imperative to use ZDDP rich oil and no there is no way to tell cam type without pulling the intake they built those engines both ways hope this helps
Why not use a retrofit roller kit? Is it not possible to use a retrofit kit on a block such as this one? Or, is the OEM style roller kit with spider/lifter retainers (dogbones) better in some way? I want to convert to a roller cam from flat tappet with my 1995 350 TBI Tahoe, however, I am torn between going this route with OEM style roller kit or going for a retrofit kit. What is your suggestions/opinions/thoughts? Thank you in advance, excellent work here and very informative :)
The block I have the bosses are not milled off flat on the top. Were yours already cut down? I came up with 2.150" below the block's manifold surface is where they should be. Maybe some blocks are milled but just not tapped.
I recently bought a 1992 5.7 four bolt main block with a pair of 193 heads, it came with a cam in it but the guy I bought it from said that all he knew was that it is a mild cam in it but couldn’t tell me anymore info on it. Is there a way to tell if it’s a flat top or a roller lifter cam? And or if it’s hydraulic or not?
Interesting, my oddball story is having and old late 70's 350 that came from the factory with two different heads, basically the same specs for each head, just two different casting #'s.
@@stevew270 They ran out of parts that night and had to switch over more then likely but you would think they'd pulled the oddball to keep things the same number. More then likely was a shift suprisor call and gm knew nothing of it lol
I'm in the process of setting up my press for this exact conversion. I mean for real it isn't rocket science. what size bit and taps/thread pitch did you go with? also what cam recommendations for this exact t.b.i motor but I will have vortec 062 heads? thanks man
I purchased a 880 block (95 tbi) and after ripping it apart I found it has a two bolt main and no roller setup. I made an uniformed purchase and I'm most likely not using most of what came on the engine and it also has a few nasty ridges in the cylinder bore... I found another block (LQ3) that comes with the roller setup and a four bolt main, hardly any wear in the cylinders and it's only $50... should I make the swap or just take my block in for a clean & bore then drill the holes for the roller cam?
I've got a related question. I have a 93 Gen V TBI 7.4L I'm itching to tear into. I've heard conflicting stories that these blocks are similar to the 5.7L and were provisioned for the roller cam but never given one. Could I be looking at the need to machine holes for a cam thrust plate?
I have a very odd 1995 TBI, my bosses for the spider is tapped and drilled but no bosses for a cam retainer! Not sure what I can do, any help would be appreciated.
Im using a stock vortec block with the stock roller lifters. I’m also gonna use the 041 heads with 202 valves on this block with an aluminum high rise (carbureted) I can’t use the roller rockers on this motor because our street stock rules won’t allow it. I wanna use the same camshaft from the 604 crate engine (.474 intake / .510 exhaust). What’s your thoughts on this combination and how well do you think it would perform for a circle track motor? I understand that when using a roller cam and roller lifters I will still have to use the roller push rods (shorter). What should I use for a rocker arm? Thanks Rusty
I am so glad you asked this it is a really good question, first and foremost you do not need to use high zinc oil as you probably know the engine oil sold today has very low zinc content and that makes life for a flat tappet impossible. Another good reason is a roller cam can have much more duration at lower valve lifts because of the lobe profile, Also the roller cam has 2/3 less rolling resistance than a flat tappet so basically uses 1/3 of the power to rotate it that is free HP I have seen 15 to 20 HP gains just from this alone, and yes much longer life for the cam as well as the entire valve train the difference between roller and flat tappet is as big as the difference between Fuel injection and Carbirators
@@Myvintageiron7512 it's opposite, roller cams can have more more lift at a lower duration. it's not hard to find a flat tappet cam with low lift and a lot of duration, most of the 60s performance hydraulic cams were like this. duration at .050 in the 220-230 range but lift less than .450. Take for example the L79 350hp 327 cam, in Comp's reproduction of it, has 222/222 with .447 lift: www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=2&sb=2
off topic but I was hoping you could answer a question for me. I have 781 cast iron Factory heads which are going on a 496. The heads are going to have 2.25 intake and 1.90 exhaust. will it be of benefit, time, money vs gain if I port match and polish intake and exhaust?
port match the intake only not the ex and polish the ex only not the intake polishing the intake causes the fuel to fall out of suspension and port matching the ex causes ex. gas reversion yes it will benefit I recommend it
any plans 2 do a video series on drilling out the fuel pump boss on a roller block (after 1991) - there r some who wish not to convert to EFI and retain the mechanical fuel pump or choose not to run a Carter P4070 external electric fuel pump
Had_Built Not_Bought If you gotta ask what it costs to build your foundation you aint got the $ to afford huff or candy. Just set fire to your budget $ now.
is the 97 vortecs stock cam good for midrange power I am using 91 series 191 heads on a 97 tbi roller cam block. my builder put stock cam in. also my block was decked .20 , and my heads were shaved .20 also the cylinders were bored .20 . im trying to figure out what thickness head gasket I need,. the head gasket I have is .70 thousandths but I dont know what thickness it will compress to. my stock pistons sit .032 below deck at TDC. THANKS
Those gaskets are fine they will compress to around .045. .032 below the deck is allot of deck Clearence, you won't have any problems we run them a .000 deck and a .045 gasket all the time with no trouble
oh I see 638 number on that block you were working on, I wonder if my 95 880 block is a roller cam, maybe I should buy a crate 880 engine with roller and 4 bolt. might be cheaper than bring mine to the machine shop and get it redone
Can anyone give me some insight into these 350 TBI motors??? I bought a 1990 Cadillac Brougham with a 350/5.7 TBI, with 30k ml. & probably an orig. motor. I guess the "EASIEST" way to see if it has a roller-cam is to look down thru the head's oil drain holes or push-rod ports with my Borescope, to see if there are any dog-bone lifter retainers, or the spider-hold down....any other way to know if this is a roller motor? Factory manual says this car has a 175hp@4200 / 295 lbs ft. @2000rpm, 240@3200rpm. with 9.3:1 compression ratio & "Hydraulic Lifters". I'm hoping that I have a better-variation motor that somehow made it into this car from the factory since it was a Cadillac. Are there any type of block casting codes or other info I can find to determine what motor I have and confirm it's spec's easily???????
your idea of using a bore scope to look in the lifter valley is probably the best way to tell there, really wasn't any way to tell externally if it's a roller, most of the TBI engines were not roller, the decision to make them a roller was made on the assembly line based on application. I think a Caddy probably has the best chance of having one because it is considered a higher end car
I HAVE A 5.7 1PC REAR MAIN BLOCK AND I WANT TO BUILD A 383 FOR MY TRUCK IF I GET A EXTERNAL BALANCE ROTATING ASS. DO THEY MAKE A FLYWHEEL FOR A MANUAL TRANSMISSION THAT WILL WORK ? IM GONNA HAVE IT BALANCED JUST WONDERING.............SHOULD I JUST GET AN INTERNAL BALANCED ASSEMBLY INSTEAD
Informative but wouldn't it be cheaper just to get a motor with it all done with all the components? I mean you can get a motor with it all for 150 to 200 bucks!
Hi, I was recently given a good crank and pistons from a 350 sbc and he suggested I get a 302 and bore that to a 350. To stick them in I had never heard of a chevy 302. Any suggestions or if a 302 sbc is rare? Thanks in advance
A 302 Chevy is rare. www.holisticpage.com/camaro/camaros/302.htm You can't bore a 302 to a 350 because a 302, 327, and 350 all use the same diameter pistons. They do however use different stroke crankshafts and some of the crankshafts have small or large diameter main bearings.
the crank from a Baby LT1 (L99) has a 3 inch stroke and 5.94" rods which yields a 302 without the use of the vintage 302 pistons from the DZ motor (the L99 as with all 86+ SBCs incl the 4.3L r a one piece rear seal)
@@montrosepatriot News to me ! hav i been under a rock or did chevy make another 302 i have never heard of ? and with a odd ball rod length ta boot ! Are we even talking small blocks or are we into some unrelated L series here ?
Glad i ran into this video. Just learned my 95 638 block was drilled and tapped for the roller setup good info for future upgrades
On the cam retainer, I've always used a transfer punch for the first hole, chamfered it, then tapped it, cleaned it out, bolted the plate back on, checked it for cam clearance, then repeated the second hole. Always works.
I would also like to add that the top of the lifter bores is supposed to be milled flat and into the upper valley itself to allow correct clearance and a flat surface for the lifter anti rotation plates. This is one often over looked process. Some blocks came done while others did not.
If the block has the 3 tower bosses in intake valley , the top of lifter bore will be milled flat .
Love the humor at the end. Happens to me too. I think that's called a gravity storm. They pop up out of nowhere. ...... :)
I realize this is a older video , one thing is the lifters in the down position will set slightly lower in the dog bones . This is normal as the top of lifter bore is not machined flat . The lifter should still have about 3/16 engagement into the dog bone and will work just fine. I have done this several times and had zero issues . Do not use a small or reduced base circle camshaft.
Long live the 5.7
This can be done by hand at home if you are comfortable and proficient with a hand drill.
If you guys do this with the engine in the vehicle use a round speaker magnet to surround the boss while drilling and use grease on the tap to catch the chips, then use a scribe with a small magnet on the end to remove any excess chips.
Cool whip bowl with hole in bottom , slide it over the boss then drill it and tap it. Done it every time works well.
love all your videos and have learned a lot from watching you teach us the small things to look for when building a motor the right way
Become a supporter of this channel follow link to find out how and how it can benefit you
ruclips.net/video/HmZHwJBT26w/видео.html
Myvintageiron7512
Hey bud I have a factory stock 95 stick shift Silverado with a 5.7 350 tbi ,what cam can i put on, and what else can I modify besides getting a better fuel pump ??
This is an older video, but I'm throwing in my own interesting experience anyway. I have a 1989 TBI block and I'm working on a roller cam conversion for it in my truck. I learned the hard way that if you're not doing this in a machine shop, and your holes ARE pre-drilled, make sure to clean any oil out of those spider bosses before threading in a bolt. If your engine didn't have a spider installed there before and you're converting it without a full engine teardown/cleanup, then as the engine ran it probably filled up those holes with oil and created a unique situation specific to adding bolts that weren't there before. I didn't think anything about it and assumed the oil would just act as a lube as I threaded in a bolt, and the first two bolts pushed the oil out just fine. The third hole had just a little too much crud in the threads to allow the oil to escape, so the hydrostatic pressure ended up busting out the boss. There's no one in my area that specializes in brazing cast iron blocks and machine shops refused to touch it, so I ended up using a brass battery terminal as a band-aid for the boss.
My bad experience aside though, an interesting thing someone online pointed out to me is that my spider bosses were drilled off-center. His thought is that the drilled holes were probably a victim of core shift, and the factory probably sent it to the flat tappet assembly line as a result. It would be interesting to know if the imperfectly manufactured roller provisions in these 87-95 blocks did play a role in deciding which blocks were used in roller cam applications and which ones were dedicated to flat tappet.
Good point. I have one of those flat tappet roller blocks in my 87 silverado. It was a rebuilt/ replacement engine at some point and has about 3k miles on it. There are currently bolts in those holes but no spider plate. Im looking to convert to roller myself, I'll be careful about that part now that you brought it up.
ohhh fuck yeah ! i just got a 91 silverado with 5.7 , im gonna do this ! i know a machinist in my town that i drink beer and smoke dope with ! im sure hed give me a good deal
that look on your face in the end was priceless lol. it's interesting, even my 68 & 70 Olds 350s have those spider bosses drilled & taped even though olds blocks didn't use roller cams until 85. another weird thing is on the 68 the heat shield on the exhaust manifolds have circular cut outs in them for o2 sensors. it's crazy the stuff car companies play with years before their actually in use.
Sometimes those exhaust manifold holes weren't for oxygen sensors. They were for connecting an air pump into the exhaust system to reignite the unburnt fuel in the exhaust. From 1966 onwards, some engines had air pumps and some didn't based on the needs of the car. Auto manufacturers would put plugs in those locations if they were building engine with and without air pumps that year.
it was more to teach my son he hasn't been around a fuel pump. my point was you explain all that and that was the problem i ran into. love your channel. not a troll
from what I've heard, 94-95 blocks weren't drilled since at that point only the trucks were using that block
I recently scored a #638 casting which is a 1994 casting - this one has the fuel pump hole drilled out (with the blockoff plate) and the spider boltholes r present but untapped
I have a #638 from my 95 that was like this without fuel pump hole either but not just that it only had 1 hole for a fuel pump cover plate instead of all 4. Not that u need a cover without the hole drilled but I like the looks of a cover over that ugly cut out lol
All internally balanced 87 and later blocks were bossed for roller. Some were drilled, some were not
was reading in hot dog magazine a roller hydraulic setup give you 25 hp , that not bad :) no need to make my hot rod stranded steering and no AC , it even outs on power loss
:) i love technology
I hear blue Sharpie works well for metal layout.
I have one of these I took out of my 1990 350SS. I put a ZZ4 in it and wanted to convert it into a ZZ4 because its the same block but like this one it has a tiny hydraulic flat tappet cam. Now I just need to get the crank, rods, pistons, and cam/lifter/retaining set and im good to go.
How did that end up going?
Something that can save you a little time and headache if your doing this alot is making setup pins by turning down capscrews to the dia of the holes in the plates ,you can get
the holes centered to under +/- .005 or better . such a good thing to see mockup in the machining /layout /blueprinting this can't be driven home enough , if your going to spend
thousands or more and want the motor to live at high rpm's , awesome vid's
Great advise Thanks
,,, yep,,, that cam had too much walk,,, already,,,. It will eat up timing chains real soon,,,. !!! Didn't like seeing the metal shavings going into the new cam and cam bearings,,,. !!! After Center punching,,, I would have removed the cam and then drilled and tapped,,. !!!
@@ricksimpson2167 he said in the start of the video that he had not done the final wash yet, and that the cam used during the drilling and tapping was not the one that was going to go in the motor....
If I end up doing this it will definitely be with a hand drill
I have a home made centering punch made from a 1" piece of 5/8 round rod. I tapered the end 75 degrees and drilled a 3/16 bore through it. I made the actual punch from a piece of 3/16 rod and heat treated it. It will find center through any hole less than 5/8". Would work great for this project.
i love your videos very helpful THANKS FOR MAKING THEM!!! keep it up
Awesome videos. Thanks so much!!! Can't wait to get mine to this point!!!
I got a 350 tbi in my 91 c1500 there good motors but I ended up buying a LT1 350 from a 96 buick roadmaster for $400 I wanted to put a tbi intake on it but I was told I cant and just use a 4 barrel intake with a tbi plate adapter
Very cool to see a transition block like that. Guess they were rolling out the new castings already for the L31's before the model year was switched? And saving a few dollars by not machining the bosses that they didn't need to for that application.
hallis1 no usually these block were previously rejected for core shift I'd of had it sonic checked before I did any machining to it I did one at school and had to correct every cylinder on by slightly offsetting the boring bar if I had went straight inline with the deck I'd of been thin one side or the other on every cylinder some times the can bore is out of line to the main bore to you'll find that when you go to degree the camshaft because it can be as much as four degrees there tolerances were sloppy on the flat tappet blocks towards the last year's of the small block plus these blocks are low nickel and a lot lighter than the older blocks they took a lot of metal out of the castings of these blocks
the L31 (880) block will have a timing cover flange with the thicker lip 4 the plastic cover - this one seen is a 638 hybrid block in transition - note the upper bolt holes since it has the thick flanges where it was for the redesigned timing cover
@ Shane Singleton, I have these three year model 5.7L blocks with the last three block casting numbers of 638; 86, 88, and a 92 and everyone of them were fully machined for a roller cam.
The cars with the 5.7 had a roller cam , the trucks did not . The blocks were probably all cast the same , with the provision to add the rollers in the car applications.
I found a lot of k series up to 95, no holes, like the factory was getting ready for them, and some boat motor blocks too...most of these blocks were straight making for the better build if hot rod, street builds or Baja🏜️⛱️🤗🗜️🔩🔧⚙️📐📈
The run really smooth with hand picking 1.52 rollor rockers from comp ...📀
FYI the Weiand 8000 is the best manifold for the TBI as far as performance is concerned. I put one on my ZZ4 with a 1 inch 2 hole spacer to give the throttle body a little more length for better atomization of the fuel charge and clearance for the EGR breather. I put a K&N velocity stack on it to open up throttle body around the injectors to unshroud them. The Edelbrock TBI intake isnt much better than the stock TBI manifold and makes little if any power. The Weiand 8000 makes all kinds of power and is a much better manifold than the Edelbrock and the factory ZZ4 intake. I used the stock ZZ4 cam but I used Manley 44210 springs and 23652 retainers which gave me 130 lbs of seat pressure at 1.75 inches. I used crane narrow body roller rockers and 12497985 tall valve covers. This seems to work pretty well together and I have beat every truck Ive run with a vortec engine. A few have been beat so bad it was embarrassing.
You probably beat them because they weren't even racing you...haha
Talking about weird engines I have a 12550313...454.......91-up...4-bolt, Gen.V crate motor, Gen. VI 4.25" bare block, fuel pump boss
Is that consider gen 5 or gen 6 to shop for parts thank you and knowledge is gold 🙏
if its a 95 its not a vortec R motor its a K motor. blocks were updated in 95 to be ready for vortec designation in 96
This may be very helpful. I'm actually trying to go backwards. picked up an 87 305, but didn't realize it was a roller cam. with the cost of upgrading the cam in a roller cam setup it will be cheaper to convert back to a flat tappet cam. currently in the process if figuring out if thats possible or not. I guess the only thing that is unknown, is if the timing gears will line up. Going to be doing measurements comparing from a 69 307 and the 87 305.
you can use a flat tappet no problem the early flat tappet timing set will work just fine
Myvintageiron7512 yep, after days of looking finally found the answer. Also find out it’s already flat tappet, I guess an el camino is considered a truck haha. Or because it’s still a carb motor, it wasn’t upgraded to a full roller cam.
Dog Bones hold the roller Lifters straight & spider holds dog bones down on block.
the hole still there but not drilled all the way out , was switching back to carb to show my boy how and you can drill it out just like the plate you drilled if im not mistaken
yes that is corresc you can drill the fuel pump hole although many prefer to use an electric pump even with a carb
Kewl video I do believe though when tapping cast iron you can use kerosene as a lube. I use a center drill drop the table lower and the recess in the back of your tap handle fits with centerdrill you can start the tap by hand then n be dead straight
Why don't you use oil on your tap??? I don't tap anything without cutting oil or fluid
Cast iron really doesn't need any lubricant for tapping. In my race shop I have a cooling light blast of air to keep the tooling cool whether it's a tap, drill, or end mill. Been doing it this way for 40 years, and on blocks that can't be replaced. Hopefully that helps.
T.S. RACING
Do you have a video showing how to completely rebuild the oem roller block? I want to build a 383 stroker using an oem chevy block which I have. However I am so glad that you made this video because I didn't have a clue as to what those three tapped holes were for....the spider which holds the dog bones in place. The block did not come with the spider so I was totally confused. Thanks a million for this video.
no problem many of the GM blocks had factory flat tappet cams even tho the blocks were set up to take a roller
not scared I would try it with a hand drill you should see my portable frame drill it's a piece of pipe and a piece of chain LOL cheap and easy only downfall is it takes a helper
We tried a 1998 Vortec 350 roller cam in a 1990 Chevy truck application. It started and ran good but didn't feel like it had the power to spin the tires in grass. I know it pulled the correct vacuum to work with the 1990 MAP sensor so I'm not sure what was holding it back.
Vortec rollers do not work well with TBI heads get a comp cams roller
Myvintageiron7512 I built The hodgepodge engine for a customer. 1995 350 factory roller block, 1998 Vortec cam, 1971 LT1 #492 2.02/1.60 heads. Topped off with the 1990 TBI and ignition... junk. It would have run much better with an HEI and a carburetor! lol. Thanks for the feedback JD
Factory vortec cams are not worth the metal they are made of they are made to work with a very specific OBD2 tune with the vortec fuel injection they do ot work well with TBI or carbs don't waste your time comp cams rollers are the only way to go
HeadFlowInc ive got a free pair of them heads nos. Ive been considering a cheap sbc build to throw them at. TBI and that cam would sign off about the time those heads came on line. Then theres compression issues with them big a$$ chambers. What did you use for pistons?
I figure them heads would make a decent buck down 383 build but a guys really gonna have to pay attention to piston choice with them chambers
do u have a part # for the Comp Cams roller grind
Bro the correct bolts for the cam plate are Torx and they are round and do NOT protrude up into the Cam gear . I myself personally would have Opted for the Torrington Bearing & cam button but I guess it's a preference ..If you went .040 over bore instead of the .030 would the net cubic inches be 396 ? of course using the same stroker kit you were going to use but swap for the .040 over pistons ?
Just pulled up pictures of the TBI 350 I semi-rebuilt for my '92 truck. My block is already drilled and tapped at these locations?
I stumbled upon this video while looking for ways to get more power from my TBI 350.
Yea most of them are drilled
Vintage I love your outtake here at the end of this video that was priceless , okay back to my comment I have an early small block Chevy if you want to convert to a roller cam , how do you keep the cam from walking back and forth in the Block , if you can please send me a link to one of your videos if you have a video to show how an early block is done .
Thank you as always vintage I love watching your videos they're Priceless thank you .
You need a thrust button between the cam and the timing cover Cloyes sells a timing cover with a built-in thrust button part number 9-221 summit sells it, if you look at my 383 engine rebuild serious I am using a stand alone thrust button for cam end play
WOW that was nostalgic. Dad's engine shop had the same Winona and head milling machine.
Have you ever thought about drilling a hole in between where the lifters sit to hold down the dogbone that way eliminating the need for the spider?
The "spider" spring hold down is designed that way to allow for slight movement of the lifter retainers. If you simply bolted them down, there is the possibility of lifter bind leading to premature wear. Edit: just realized your comment was 2 years old haha.
Excellent and informative, thank you so much for the education!!! :) :)
The bosses are there and not drilled for the trucks. The same blocks are used in the cars where they are drilled and used.
So With out tearing the 5.7 GMC K1500 Down is there any way to know if it came with a Roller I plan on rebuilding it About this time next yr II will not go back with a flt tap Roller or roller retro fit Would Vin indacate any way if it was roller --Ok I have lot of questions but That will do for now Thank you Dave @ Dad's Ole Garage
Hey man watching ur videos is like going to school I love them thank u so much for doing this. Funny I have a 89 tbi that has a flat tapped and doesn't even have the bosses for the spider crazy huh. Question thought ..what kind of heads can I use on this cuz the ones on it are junk!!! Thanks man ur awesome I am rebuilding this engine cuz of u and ur super informative videos
THX
JUSTPEED ,,, do you want a higher RPM engine,,, with torque and horsepower coming in later,, ??? Or a lower RPM,, all torque and horsepower in by 4000 RPMs,,,, higher torque,,, and high miles per gallon,,. ??? A daily driver that can pull 4000 lb,, ???
Most roller lifters come with anti rotation plates joining the 2 lifters so you dont need this spyder piece
The block with bosses use .300" taller hydraulic roller lifter.
Fantastic. Very detailed
How is the engagement of the dog bone to the follower when on lowest point on cam. The factory has the lifter bores machined down 100 odd thou. How those are left without machining them flat may be ok with a std base circle cam. But I would be really careful with a reduced base circle cam that the lifter doesn't drop down out of the dog bone and rotate.
Best channel on youtubes
I have a question if you might know I have the exact same set up.. except I added upgrades heads etc. Wondering if I should switch out the tbi and go carberator and different distributor etc. Or keep all that and find a different computer chip for it or will the computer accommodate the new parts etc. I hope makes semse. Any help appreciated thank you.. Troy
Truck engines were flat tappet until 96 I believe
Good stuff👍
how much would this cost getting done? all the drilling and tapping..
if you use a cam retainer plate , do you still have to use a thrust button , thanks ..
I would like to see a 2008 ram 5.7 hemi with the mds rebuilt, and hopped up a little.
I would like to know if you did anything to the top of the lifter bores where the dog bones sit. I have a 95 TBI truck motor that is the same as in your video but did not here you mention anything about doing any machine work in this area or is it ok to leave as is. Thanks
we ran it without doing that and it worked fine
I have a 94 firebird with the LT1 350 and I'm looking into getting a cam. I have a first gen cloyes timing set already installed ( no water pump gear) and electric water pump. Also have the 24x LS style coil packs and computer so i dont need the cam to spin the distributor either. I'm wondering if i can use first gen cams and/or flat tappet cams. Never did this before and im not an expert so ANY suggestions on a good street cam that isnt to expensive would be great. Shooting for close to 400 horse and 800 or less.
I have a 350 chevy that came in a boat as a volvo penta marine engine. the boat is a '92 is there a way to know if this engine has a flat tappet cam without pulling the intake? also do you think 25 hours of operation would be enough to damage the cam if it ran the wrong oil, ie non zink oil? because of this channel I now understand why i might have an issue. thanks for the videos
25 hours could definitely wipe out a flat tappet but remember it depends on whether or not the cam was run with high zinc oil in the past what the zinc does is embed itself into the cam lobe and makes a sacrificial layer of zinc between the lobe and the lifter this protects it if it has zinc embedded in the lobes it could last quite a while on low zinc oil however eventually the lifters will wear through the zinc layer and wipe out the cam this is why it's imperative to use ZDDP rich oil and no there is no way to tell cam type without pulling the intake they built those engines both ways hope this helps
I know this is a old video, but do you remember the cam you used
I'd like to know that myself. TBI is historically more finicky about larger Cams than any other type of Induction!
Why not use a retrofit roller kit? Is it not possible to use a retrofit kit on a block such as this one? Or, is the OEM style roller kit with spider/lifter retainers (dogbones) better in some way? I want to convert to a roller cam from flat tappet with my 1995 350 TBI Tahoe, however, I am torn between going this route with OEM style roller kit or going for a retrofit kit. What is your suggestions/opinions/thoughts? Thank you in advance, excellent work here and very informative :)
OEM roller cam parts are far less expensive than retrofit roller cam kits.
Oem rollers weigh less too
I decided to go this route because it was cheaper, even with the machining
The block I have the bosses are not milled off flat on the top. Were yours already cut down? I came up with 2.150" below the block's manifold surface is where they should be. Maybe some blocks are milled but just not tapped.
I would mill them
I am currently doing this on my motor. What timing set did you use.? Std non roller timing sets are not even close. Thanks
I recently bought a 1992 5.7 four bolt main block with a pair of 193 heads, it came with a cam in it but the guy I bought it from said that all he knew was that it is a mild cam in it but couldn’t tell me anymore info on it. Is there a way to tell if it’s a flat top or a roller lifter cam? And or if it’s hydraulic or not?
great work enjoyed the video
so is it true you can't put heads from 86 an under on 87 to 95 blocks. cause of water jackets
Interesting, my oddball story is having and old late 70's 350 that came from the factory with two different heads, basically the same specs for each head, just two different casting #'s.
Yep I have seen that to had one with a 993 and a 487 castings but like you say they are identical heads
Left over parts I guess.
@@stevew270 They ran out of parts that night and had to switch over more then likely but you would think they'd pulled the oddball to keep things the same number. More then likely was a shift suprisor call and gm knew nothing of it lol
Did you get around to doing the heads?
I had the same motor in my 1994 gmc from Canada
I have a block just like this on the engine stand.
Oh man you gotta make it a roller
I pulled this motor from a 91 firebird. At some point someone swapped out the 305 tbi for this 350.
Iv got a 95 z71 probably will be doing this in time
I'm in the process of setting up my press for this exact conversion. I mean for real it isn't rocket science. what size bit and taps/thread pitch did you go with? also what cam recommendations for this exact t.b.i motor but I will have vortec 062 heads? thanks man
For 1/4 20 bolts which is what they are, use number 7 drill.
Would this have been easier on a Bridgeport. Just wondering. I know dead lifting a block on a Bpt table is not fun either.
No I have a Bridgeport but this machine is much better suited for it
where do you get yours studs I notice you use them pretty often
I purchased a 880 block (95 tbi) and after ripping it apart I found it has a two bolt main and no roller setup. I made an uniformed purchase and I'm most likely not using most of what came on the engine and it also has a few nasty ridges in the cylinder bore... I found another block (LQ3) that comes with the roller setup and a four bolt main, hardly any wear in the cylinders and it's only $50... should I make the swap or just take my block in for a clean & bore then drill the holes for the roller cam?
#$50.00? For 50 bucks I'd risk buying it, but after you get it, have a machine shop check the block before spending any money on it.
I've got a related question. I have a 93 Gen V TBI 7.4L I'm itching to tear into. I've heard conflicting stories that these blocks are similar to the 5.7L and were provisioned for the roller cam but never given one. Could I be looking at the need to machine holes for a cam thrust plate?
it should have the holes drilled already
I have a very odd 1995 TBI, my bosses for the spider is tapped and drilled but no bosses for a cam retainer!
Not sure what I can do, any help would be appreciated.
retro fit roller
I got a 1992 tbi 4.3 can I run a cam out of a CPI 4.3 ? As, a upgrade?
Im using a stock vortec block with the stock roller lifters. I’m also gonna use the 041 heads with 202 valves on this block with an aluminum high rise (carbureted) I can’t use the roller rockers on this motor because our street stock rules won’t allow it.
I wanna use the same camshaft from the 604 crate engine (.474 intake / .510 exhaust).
What’s your thoughts on this combination and how well do you think it would perform for a circle track motor?
I understand that when using a roller cam and roller lifters I will still have to use the roller push rods (shorter).
What should I use for a rocker arm?
Thanks Rusty
use the TBI or vortec rockers they will work fine
What’s your thoughts on this combination and that cam? I forgot to mention the motor is .030 over also
it sounds pretty good
cool lol , so what the advantage of the roller cam ? i`m guessing less friction more HP ? or less ware longer life ?
I am so glad you asked this it is a really good question, first and foremost you do not need to use high zinc oil as you probably know the engine oil sold today has very low zinc content and that makes life for a flat tappet impossible. Another good reason is a roller cam can have much more duration at lower valve lifts because of the lobe profile, Also the roller cam has 2/3 less rolling resistance than a flat tappet so basically uses 1/3 of the power to rotate it that is free HP I have seen 15 to 20 HP gains just from this alone, and yes much longer life for the cam as well as the entire valve train the difference between roller and flat tappet is as big as the difference between Fuel injection and Carbirators
Both.
@@Myvintageiron7512 it's opposite, roller cams can have more more lift at a lower duration. it's not hard to find a flat tappet cam with low lift and a lot of duration, most of the 60s performance hydraulic cams were like this. duration at .050 in the 220-230 range but lift less than .450. Take for example the L79 350hp 327 cam, in Comp's reproduction of it, has 222/222 with .447 lift: www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=2&sb=2
how much of a bigger roller cam can i put in a 95 350 tbi that would be computer compatible i have a 95 chevy silverado k1500
I wonder if thats just a vortec block without the holes drilled since gm went roller cam in 96...
I got a 89 small block chevy that has a roller cam from the factory. Yep.
The 305 that WAS in my Camaro had this as well. Weird.
off topic but I was hoping you could answer a question for me. I have 781 cast iron Factory heads which are going on a 496. The heads are going to have 2.25 intake and 1.90 exhaust. will it be of benefit, time, money vs gain if I port match and polish intake and exhaust?
port match the intake only not the ex and polish the ex only not the intake polishing the intake causes the fuel to fall out of suspension and port matching the ex causes ex. gas reversion yes it will benefit I recommend it
Thanks for the reply and information
any plans 2 do a video series on drilling out the fuel pump boss on a roller block (after 1991) - there r some who wish not to convert to EFI and retain the mechanical fuel pump or choose not to run a Carter P4070 external electric fuel pump
Montrose Patriot ,,,, a roller cam,,, does not have a lobe for a mechanical fuel pump,,. !!!! ???
ruclips.net/video/zLU5mfMvwlw/видео.html
Now i am worried I have 95 Suburban and a 95 truck and they both have hurt engine so I was going to try to build me one for the truck
Is it possible to sleeve a 350 cast iron for boost or nitrous?. If so, what is needed and what is the common cost from a machine shop?
Had_Built Not_Bought
If you gotta ask what it costs to build your foundation you aint got the $ to afford huff or candy. Just set fire to your budget $ now.
is the 97 vortecs stock cam good for midrange power I am using 91
series 191 heads on a 97 tbi roller cam block. my builder put stock cam
in. also my block was decked .20 , and my heads were shaved
.20 also the cylinders were bored .20 . im trying to figure out what
thickness head gasket I need,. the head gasket I have is .70 thousandths but I dont know what thickness it will compress to. my stock pistons sit .032 below deck at TDC. THANKS
Those gaskets are fine they will compress to around .045. .032 below the deck is allot of deck Clearence, you won't have any problems we run them a .000 deck and a .045 gasket all the time with no trouble
@@Myvintageiron7512 thanks this gives me confidence to finish putting it together!
I have a 1995 chevy G20 5.7 880 tbi block, what block is that one, supposed to be a roller block, not sure if its 4 bolt mains as well
oh I see 638 number on that block you were working on, I wonder if my 95 880 block is a roller cam, maybe I should buy a crate 880 engine with roller and 4 bolt. might be cheaper than bring mine to the machine shop and get it redone
Can anyone give me some insight into these 350 TBI motors???
I bought a 1990 Cadillac Brougham with a 350/5.7 TBI, with 30k ml. & probably an orig. motor.
I guess the "EASIEST" way to see if it has a roller-cam is to look down thru the head's oil drain holes or push-rod ports with my Borescope, to see if there are any dog-bone lifter retainers, or the spider-hold down....any other way to know if this is a roller motor?
Factory manual says this car has a 175hp@4200 / 295 lbs ft. @2000rpm, 240@3200rpm. with 9.3:1 compression ratio & "Hydraulic Lifters".
I'm hoping that I have a better-variation motor that somehow made it into this car from the factory since it was a Cadillac.
Are there any type of block casting codes or other info I can find to determine what motor I have and confirm it's spec's easily???????
your idea of using a bore scope to look in the lifter valley is probably the best way to tell there,
really wasn't any way to tell externally if it's a roller, most of the TBI engines were not roller,
the decision to make them a roller was made on the assembly line based on application.
I think a Caddy probably has the best chance of having one because it is considered a higher end car
I HAVE A 5.7 1PC REAR MAIN BLOCK AND I WANT TO BUILD A 383 FOR MY TRUCK IF I GET A EXTERNAL BALANCE ROTATING ASS. DO THEY MAKE A FLYWHEEL FOR A MANUAL TRANSMISSION THAT WILL WORK ? IM GONNA HAVE IT BALANCED JUST WONDERING.............SHOULD I JUST GET AN INTERNAL BALANCED ASSEMBLY INSTEAD
ther is an external balance flywheel for your rotating ass
OK THANK YOU
Informative but wouldn't it be cheaper just to get a motor with it all done with all the components? I mean you can get a motor with it all for 150 to 200 bucks!
Why not just use a Cam button?
It doesn’t make sense to magna flux it before you Final wash it? I’m confused
That makes two of us
I was under the impression all TBI blocks were roller cams.
no most TBI engines were flat tappet
Hi, I was recently given a good crank and pistons from a 350 sbc and he suggested I get a 302 and bore that to a 350. To stick them in I had never heard of a chevy 302. Any suggestions or if a 302 sbc is rare? Thanks in advance
A 302 Chevy is rare. www.holisticpage.com/camaro/camaros/302.htm You can't bore a 302 to a 350 because a 302, 327, and 350 all use the same diameter pistons. They do however use different stroke crankshafts and some of the crankshafts have small or large diameter main bearings.
the crank from a Baby LT1 (L99) has a 3 inch stroke and 5.94" rods which yields a 302 without the use of the vintage 302 pistons from the DZ motor (the L99 as with all 86+ SBCs incl the 4.3L r a one piece rear seal)
@@montrosepatriot News to me ! hav i been under a rock or did chevy make another 302 i have never heard of ? and with a odd ball rod length ta boot ! Are we even talking small blocks or are we into some unrelated L series here ?
How deep did you drill
Where is your shop?
did they forget the fuel pump rod also ran into that on same MOTOR haha
This one did not have the fuel pump rod hole drilled because it was FI engine
FI engines have the pump in the gas tank so need for any work on the block.