MINIATURE BASICS - HOW TO BASE YOUR MINIS
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
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#BlackMagicCraft #Episode081
In this episode of the Mini Basics series I cover a few options for basing your miniatures. I'll cover a few options for the actual bases, and some various covering styles using sand and green stuff. I also show how to use a greenstuffworld.com textured rolling pin to decorate a miniature base.
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I love the attitude of this series. I find a lot of people can be very "my way or the highway" about tabletop stuff- it's so nice to have a series giving good, solid advice while still acknowledging other people's tastes & preferences.
It's weird how infectious it gets. When I first started, I figured I'd get a handful of generic minis to represent all kinds of things and never bother with painting. Now mini painting is probably my primary hobby.
I'm less particular about uniformity in my bases as much as I just prefer that all minis have one, and they all be circular. I agree with you that the pudding bases kind of irk me, but I'm okay with using the thin Wizkids bases and leaving them plain, especially if I'm doing a batch of mobs.
Different terrain doesn't really bug me, and can even be used to accent the character. I played a Goliath Barbarian in a previous game, but finding a Goliath mini to scale is tough. So instead I got a good Reaper mini and based it on a layer of cork painted to look like a large rock. This made it stand taller than the rest of the party and gave the desired imposing effect.
Yes, my druid always is standing on grass, it grows around his feet
He's not popular in taverns. Or churches. Or shops. Or castles. Or basically anywhere inside
XD
Love it!
HorzaPanda ROFL!
This made me smile!
Thank goodness I found this channel! Just starting painting minis again after a 30 year break. ;-) a bit has changed. What happened to the lead? Kidding, got me some Reapers, and excited to get started into some painting.
Another thing you can do with the Reaper Round bases - turn them upside down and mount the model inside of the well - you can have the model sitting on what looks like level ground is you do it right. (A bit of green stuff in the well, or even more sand and superglue.)
I have been painting on and off for thirty years. Even though I know most of what you are talking it’s still nice to get refreshers and even learn a thing or two
I like to buy a few of my character minis, and then do different terrain bases for them so I can just swap them out during gameplay. It's probably a little obsessive of me, but I love basing so it gives me an excuse to do more of it. Realistic bases just add so much!
Jeremy, as usual, I agree with your aesthetic choices! Probably this is due to the fact that we are both musicians inside ...
I use a wooden dowel cut into similar size "slices" and use these discs as bases. Sand down the edges and decorate as desired.
I'm not sure if you still check these but i LOVE this channel and finally got into a place where i can set up my painting area. The Base knowledge is GREAT!
I made my own bases out of old metal bottle caps that I primed and painted. It is kind of like the reaper ones but have a little bit more weight and have a different shape. It is free and easy
As a DM it's helpful to paint numbers, letters, or roman numerials on the side of the base. It helps to identify groups of miniatures, like my players are fighting 10 goblins or zombies, so everyone can see mob A, mob B....ect
Would you consider different color sides to help or no?
@@MarshalltheMarshtompOfficial numbers tend to just be easier, particularly on the part of the DM as all you have to write is Goblin 1, goblin 2, etc; versus writing out goblin red, goblin green.
This makes things cleaner and more streamline. Also another argument could be made that just painting a number utilizes far less paint than painting the whole ring.
Just got into painting my minis and I’ve probably watched the first four videos of the series 3 times each. Thanks for the tutorials and please keep them coming.
Great video! Personally, I like to use US pennies for bases for most all my RPG minis. I like the 3/4 inch diameter and the weight they add to the plastic figures. Also, they only cost 1 cent each! Though it does often require some reposing shenanigans since so may are sculpted with a 1 inch base in mind. Larger figures or monsters that won't fit on a penny get the washer treatment.
I'm surprised that you say you've had PVA peel off bases. I've been using pretty much only PVA to glue down sand and have been doing so since the mid 1990s and have never once experienced this. I wonder what we're doing differently.
Hey Black Magic, great video! I make my own minis and I make them with circular base that fit in 5 in game feet square. It doesn't matter the size of a creature, it always stands still.
Great advice, the only thing I'll add is: using green stuff (or other such putty) to level out your bases (if you're leaving the pudding base on when you attach it to the base) before putting any flocking on can help make a more natural looking mini. If you flock with the pudding base on often that level difference between the flat base and the mini is quite apparent. You can also save a bit of money and use hot glue to level it out with a bit of practice! Regardless, great video!
Lawless The bases on models is usually uneven because they are removed from the mold before they can fully cool.
You can simply heat the base in boiling water and press it onto the bottom of a flat dish full of cold water.
I use 1" fender washers for minis for tabletop, usually for Reaper Bones or WhizKids minis. It adds great ballast to the minis, I buy them in boxes of 100.
Mini tip: use cork pieces on a base and paint it with agrax earthshade or some other shade to make a nice size effective log
The wizkids bases are great options for objective and similar things you might want to use.
For those planning on the clear acrylic bases, be very careful with superglue. It can frost the base and ruin the effect if you aren't very careful. Some of the other clear drying glues actually work better for it.
Yea, I save all those thin bases as they are awesome for little bits of terrain and stuff.
FWIW if you give your clear base a quick spray of clear gloss, when it's dry you can use superglue. The gloss will act as a barrier to the clear plastic. :)
That also adds another point of failure in the end. You really want a clean connection point between the mini and the base or it can break off more easily as the paint and gloss doesn't bond as well compared to the metal/plastic/acrylic does. And when it does, the end result is more likely to do some nasty things to the rest of the paint job...
Use epoxy.
So many channels out there doing minis, same for crafting. Only difference is that your crafting videos have your own unique style that keep me coming back. So much of my terrain has blossomed from techniques I've learned from you and I sport many projects that scream "BMC". I hope this foray into minis doesn't take away from your actual crafting vids, I've been using them as a gold standard in my builds. Even though I don't have any hot wire tools I'm still able to emulate your designs for the most part. I really enjoy your builds, they are why I love this channel. But waiting around for a week only to find that you're doing another mini video is disheartening. I'm sure you are receiving praise for the mini related stuff, but it lacks the essence of what brings the majority of us back each video. (I hope I'm not the only one who feels this way)
You are correct, I am getting a lot of praise for this series. Actually I have over all gotten more positive praise on this series than any of my terrain stuff. You might actually be the first person, or one of only a couple, to react negatively.
Many have covered this subject before. But most of my viewers come to me for my own unique way of approaching subjects, and teaching. A lot of my viewers come to me as a one stop shop to learn the hobby. This is a series I avoided for over a year, but the non stop requests (literally hundreds and hundreds of comments) for me to cover minis in my teaching style finally won out.
My content can’t please everyone all the time. My content isn’t tailer made to one viewer. In the end no one knows the general needs of my viewers better than me as I am the one that reads every single viewer comment, giving me a good global view of what people want and don’t want.....and trust me, they want me to cover the miniature side of the hobby.
I have over 100 terrain videos, I now have 3 mini videos....minis are not taking over, they are just something I’m covering so I have a playlist for beginners to reference.
I always base my players in a solid color of there choice it helps with me /them to be able to recognize the players quickly on the battle mat. also i always fill the bottom of my bases with hot glue, it adds some weight and adds grip to the piece.
Nice video, BMC. One comment....you are using a 25mm base for a 28mm mini. That, combined with the more dynamic posing that has in vogue, gives you the trouble you were on about. That's one of the underlying reasons for the larger scale of the Wyloch-style tiles.
Just put in my order through Green Stuff world, can’t wait to use my rolling pin, thanks for all the good info!
Awesome installment to this series, full of great advice. I tend to agree with your thoughts on miniatures and basing; while its not necessary, I always highly recommend to people that they do it. Then again, I also really enjoy the process of creating bases for my miniatures; its basically (no pun intended) like building terrain/scenery on a much smaller scale and you do so much with it. Admittedly, I probably go overboard when creating my bases but its fun and it adds to the narrative of the miniature. Its interesting that you've had problems with PVA glue separating; the only time I've experienced this is when using washable glue, like the stuff tend to use in schools now, because its not really meant to be permanent. Everyone's experience are different though and in the end all that really matters is that your basing material gets stuck on nice and secure. If you're looking for really fine sand (emphasis on "really"), hit Hobby Lobby or any type of crafts store that carries supplies for sand art; I found this stuff, often referred to as "craft sand" years ago and its somewhere between finely granulated sugar and flour and makes really convincing scale dirt. Another great thing to keep in your "basing kit" (assuming you want to take it this far) is chunks of bark; they make amazing look scale rocks that, in my opinion, look a lot better than the normal gravel/ballast you normally see for dioramas and model trains. I've got orchid bark for smaller rocks and chunks of pine bark for really big rocks, and the nice thing about them is that you can usually find them at Outdoor/DIY stores like Home Depot in sufficient quantity to last you a *long* time (the pine bark came in a 2.2 cubic foot back which I didn't fully comprehend the sheer volume of until I saw it in person, if you will).
I have a beetle "mini" that i did a pretty detailed base and it got me hooked on making crazy bases as it just accentuated the miniature and made it better
Thank you broo...this video answer much of my questions about basing our minis...
He is correct that it is a matter of personal preference.
I would, however, like to offer the counter point for decorating bases and why I paint all mine black.
Black represents negative space. It is easily ignored.
Decorating a base looks cooler, but creates inconsistencies, as he mentioned in the video.
A mini on a flag stone base during a fight in the wilderness, or a grasslands base while fighting in a dungeon, creates dissonance.
My intention soon, is to use clear disk bases.
I do, however, decorate monster bases for creatures I know will only appear in a specific environment.
Thanks for the link! Just ordered some reaper bases from Amazon. I’m new to the world of miniatures and your channel is awesome!
The confrontation 30 MM bases can be found for cheap on ebay and are a great option for those miniatures with larger bases that are too small to be used as large miniatures. They still fit pretty good on an one inch battle mat.
If you're not going to base them and keep the "pudding"(first time for me to hear this term) base, is at least sand/file the bottom flat. I got one that I painted up for my niece, and it needed quite a bit of work for it to sit still.
Especially true for the Reaper Bones minis. You need to sand or slice off the molded in text if you want them level. Never heard them called pudding bases either, everyone on the forums calls them "broccoli" bases.
Hey BMC :D Thanks for your super helpfull videos! :D I have just taken up minipainting and you have no idea how much your tutorials help! I just threw on some smooth jazz, watched your guide on painting and bases and followed along :) I think for my first try it came out pretty decent! Keep it up man! Peace from Switzerland!
I suddenly got this video in my recommendations while I've been trying to get into minis and it was super helpful! Thanks! ♡
for gluing sand on a base, i usually use wood glue (white glue). After it dried i shove away everything that sticks to the sides, and afterwards seal it with watered down wood glue. Never had problems with sand coming off with that.
I like to build a paste out of my grit when texturing a base rather than gluing it down. Typically I'll mix up two different sizes of grit with a bit of heavy gel medium, matte medium, and/or pva, mix it all up and then push it around the way I want it on the base with an old brush. Once it dries you get a nice texture without the differentiation between different individual peices of grain that you can sometimes get when just gluing it down.
I'm sure a more industrious crafter could mix up a whole jar's worth ahead of time to maintain a degree of consistency across multiple bases if that's your jam.
I have used pre mixed tile grout to good effect. Dries rock hard with a sandy texture that blends in pretty well with a lot of integral bases.
I used super glue and baking soda on my warhammer miniatures the baking soda looks better then just sand because its super fine and more to scale as sand
Miniature paintings, the perfect hobby for the O.C.D.
I love finding new videos of yours and watching them. There always informational thank you
The bases you choose matter a lot if you use terrain. Flat bases like wizkids don't grip terrain and slide and fall off any kind of slope. Elevated empty bases grip to terrain and flock a lot better and won't fall off as easily.
Round bases still seem weird to me. My favorite bases were the (discontinued) 1x1 reaper square metal bases. The extra weight at the bottom helps keep the minis from tipping over, and they had a little well you could fill with a mix of PVA and sand/ballast to make it level.
Reaper's square plastic bases are ok, but the sides are more tapered, so you have to trim the "broccoli" base more to fit. I actually found some Ral Partha metal bases the other day, which are pretty nice as well.
You can also use green stuff to adhere the mini. Another great video.
Something of the european Perspektive (just got this Series from RUclips in my Suggestions): There is a British Company called "Renedra" which seams most of the time been used in the historical Wargamins Scene. They produce a own tipe of those Coin-Bases, not quite the same as the Bases Witzkids seams to produce, but if they are in a comparable Size this could work as well. (But at least I prefere the GW-Style-Bases as well, which I can order pretty Easily over a few Webstores here in Germany.)
Rather than superglue, I use No More Nails to secure my minis to bases. Wall filler/putty plus sawdust and/or coffee grounds of various coarseness makes for great and cheap texture/filler.
The No More Nails obviously take longer to dry/set, but it's a little more impact resistant because it's flexible.
Totally agree with the frustration of over-sized/misshapen bases. Why, artists, why?!?!
I have a few human sized Bones miniatures that are on larger 40mm bases instead of my normal 25mm bases because trimming them down to 25mm is not an option. They'd lose a foot or tail, or something else which hangs way over the edge.
I use othello board tokens they fit perfectly and you can use the white side or the black,plus they have some weight to them
For my standardized base, I use hardware store washers. They're thin but have weight and are readily available. I haven't tried pinning yet.
I use modeling paste to blend my mini bases right now, but I'm definitely going to try green stuff/miliput at some point.
Damn! You're almost as picky as I am! LOL
Love what you're doing. And thanks for speaking as though I don't know anything about this, because i don't. Looking forward tot he next video.
The whole point is to take someone from knowing absolutely nothing about minis, to being able to paint some up that are good enough for the table.
And I appreciate it. As I've told you before, I bought -- over the years -- four "For Dummies" books. Each of them ASS-SUMED that I already knew something. In truth, the books are NOT "for dummies."
Thanks again!
You can make multiple based for the mini if you use the pinning method but don't glue it to the base.
My bases all cost a penny each, well 2 pennies, as i use a 2 pence coin to base all my minis on. The size is perfect but even better than that, they weigh the minis down, specially those plastic ones, though i prefer to paint metal minis as thats where my background lies. Once i have a tuppence glued to my figure, i bulk up the base with superglue and extra fine sand, simple paint job and the occasional grass tuft. This works for me as i only paint for myself really, i am not a gamer, just someone who likes painting fantasy figures =)
Love this series
I should have know that if I just looked at BMC, I would find a video that deals with exactly what I'm working on. Thank you for the information contained in this video. Now, I just have to work up the nerve to cut the miniatures free from their "pudding" bases so that I can put them on the new bases.
If you’ve got a question, I’ve probably got a video 😃
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial This video was exactly what I was looking for. I have several miniatures which I want to rebase and you showed me what I can do. Thanks again.
knocks over easy (flicks mini like 10 times... finally falls over)... lol.. great video as always...
I’ve glued sand to plastic GW bases with PVA and my models are over 15 years old with no issues.
never had to mess with mini 's and bases. But I recieved a mini today that is smaller than the standard dnd mini size and has no base so it can't stay standing up. So I will have to look at trying to not ruin this mini. My last one had it's spear break and the glue we tried didn't stay in place leaving a V shaped top of a spear and big glue ball fists.
Where possible, dry fit the mini for basing before you paint, then paint the parts separately, so you can do cool things with both without worrying about them not fitting together.
Man I love the videos you make! Thank you from a newbie.
I have always wanted to get into D&D but never had a crew. Well I made my own! This weekend I am starting a game with my wife and three kids. I picked up the starter set with the lost mines of phandelver and I’m hoping to work through that. My kids are 11, 10 and 8.
Do you have an recommendations for a new DM with a team of all new players?
Thanks again for all the content. I’m starting my builds this weekend!!! You made quarantine so much easier
Keep the story simple.
Don’t worry too much about rules. Just make something up when in doubt and check the rules later.
If using a module, don’t worry about memorizing every detail. Understand the general idea and important things and let yourself improvise the rest.
Just relax and have fun.
You mentioned Citadel slotted based as if they were the only options. Citadel mostly makes fully solid bases, both sold with their minis and sold in bulk. If you’re looking for continuity, I’d suggest those because they’re sold with all Citadel minis so if you’re going to throw AoS or Warhammer Fantasy minis into your D&D game, they’ll all look the same.
Edit: also, you can just use texture paint rather than green stuff because then you don’t have to add anything and you can easily cover the pudding base, as you can glue the mini down and just slather the stuff on top.
Yes, having uniforn bases looks really good. I need to admit.
I have that pirate! Yaaaargh! Just painting it up now. Timely.
Standard base size is also great if you get into miniature skirmish games, like "Song of Blades and Heroes"
can i use an bottle cap for bases?
Do you ever do magnetic base attachments or magnetic weapon attachments so you can kinda modularize minis? I'd love to see a video on this if you do.
Would applying the sand /dirt to a mortar/pestle help refine the grit?
Adding weight under your base is a good idea especially if your cats try to play Pathfinder with you.
I only use transparent bases which are more immersive on a dungeon floor.
Any thoughts to using air dry clay for some of the mini terrain building, at least in place if epoxy or the green stuff? It does have a pretty long work time and you can do a lot with it, plus a tub of the stuff is cheap.
I don’t like the stuff. It shrinks a lot, it cracks, it’s brittle, and it doesn’t hold detail. For every application there is an alternative I’d rather use.
Any suggestions for something I can fill the bottom of the base with? You had a washer in yours which is great for weight, but I won’t want people to see that when they pick it up.
You can fill it with something like green stuff or miliput, or even DAS clay, and just paint the underside....or even hot glue.
It’s fun making decorative and scenic bases for larger models. Made a nice one for my Bones hydra that it could detach from and be used for other models if needed.
By the way what size washer was that you used in the Reaper base?
I paint minis as an excuse to decorate their bases!
Nothing wrong with that. I compulsively buy models and kits even when I’ve got about 600 that still need to be assembled and painted. Acceptance is the first step towards... i have no idea, still doesn’t stop me lol
You named a link to Scotty's video, but I can not find it ...
Whoops, forgot the link. Fixed
Does greenstuff work for sealing gaps, etc. effectively on metal minis?
Yup
I’ve been using 1” washers with as small inside diameter possible. They’re cheap, they weigh more and you can buy them in bulk.
Great series!
Do you paint the mini first then base it or put it on the base first?... does it really matter? Thanks.
Well the unpainted minis I’m putting on bases should answer this question.....I’m sure I even discuss that in this series (been a while since I made it). Anyway you can do either but there are pros and cons to each, I prefer to base first.
Do scissors work as an alternative for those wire cutters to cut the pudding base away?
What about using foam in or on bases? Any cool builds to do that?
Great video! Where did you get the electric pinning tool shown on 9:51? I see the manual one listed in your store, but didn't see this one. Is it any better than a standard dremmil tool?
It’s a proxxon rotary tool. It’s great, but requires a dedicated power supply which only makes sense to but if you own multiple handheld proxxon tools (which I do). Any cheap Dremmel, or Dremmel knock off will do.
Black Magic Craft Thanks, I bought your handheld on amazon. My drimmel is too fat to comfortably use on fine detail.
Great video. Quick question - I regularly use sand and PVA glue for miniature bases and never had the problem you described with peeling off. What do you think causes this problem and do you think there is a way to avoid it, but still use PVA and sand?
PVA and sand works great, but PVA does not bond to plastic. Which is how you can get a solid sand layer to peel right off. Not saying it will happen every time, but it can, and it’s happened to me so I don’t do it any more.
Thanks! I could see that happening with the Bones 'pudding base' especially. The material in Bones can be tricky in how it reacts to different stuff. Anyways, I can't say enough good things about your channel. Really enjoy the quality stuff you're putting out.
Danny McPurple do it with PVA. If it comes off, put a bit of super glue on the bottom and stick it back on. Using super glue alone will get extremely expensive fast if you have allot of minis.
Extremely expensive? I buy super glue at that dollar store. For $1 Cdn I get a pack of like 5 small tubes. Each tube can base at least 5 minis. So for $1 I can base about 25 minis. That doesn’t really seem that expensive when talking about an expensive hobby like mini collecting.
Black Magic Craft in the U.S. at least where i live, for 1 USD you can get a package of 2 small tubes. If you do hundreds of minis with super glue, you honestly could have used that money to get a few more or something else. There is no point in wasting any amount of money on something that can be achieved at the same quality, but with one more step that does not take long whatsoever. Mini painting is not something you should rush. Even a beginner can do a good job if they take their time.
So what about pewter ones? Do you suggest to cut those of too? If they're wobbly and not big enough is what I mean.
If you have issues with the base on the mini, put the base in boiling water for 20 or 30 seconds (kids, have an adult help you with this, burns are not nice) and then press it against the bottom of a flat dish filled with cold water for another 20 or 30 seconds.
It will reset the base to how it should have been. The same applies to warped swords and such. Also applies to more expensive models if they are made of plastic. Just make sure that they do not touch the metal with the mini, it will melt if you do.
And for basing models with sand, you CAN easily use PVA. All you need to do is after it dries, so overnight. Put another layer or two of thinned down PVA, around a little thicker than the consistency of milk, it should be able to flow freely into all of the cracks and crevices of the sand without obscuring detail.
PVA doesn’t bond to plastic. It just doesn’t. The pva and sand will be plenty strong, that’s not the issue. The issue is that you can have that sand layer peel off the plastic base. It’s still a rigid hard layer of sand, it just separates. Not saying it will happen all the time, but it can, and it has to me so I don’t do it any more.
Black Magic Craft i do this on all of my minis. The worst that has ever happened is it popped off and i had to put a thin layer of super glue on the bottom. And that was on a 60mm gw base, and it was due to how thin the plastic on the base is.
On all of my Privateer Press bases I had not had any issues.
Anyways. A few drops of super glue is way cheaper than doing it with only super glue.
Like I said in the other comment, $1 worth of glue on a couple dozen minis doesn’t seem that expensive to me to ensure a bullet proof application.
Black Magic Craft i do wargaming. So it is more than a couple dozen miniatures for me. I have over 100 all ready to paint. A bottle of Elmer's glue all, around 1.99 USD at walmart lasts a long time. And you do not have to worry about accidently getting a finger print in the glue on the model.
And later on, if you decide to repaint a mini that is not bones, you don't have to worry about sand or anything sticking the the model. Most cleaners used to strip models do not get rid of super glue.
Edit: And if you want a "bullet proof" application, buy GW texture paint or make a substitute.
I can base 100 minis with super glue for $4-$5. I really don’t find that expensive.
have you ever thought about getting 1" round wood stock and cutting your own bases. Or filling your bases with resin
eh...my time is valuable and plastic bases are cheap. Resin is also more expensive than just buying plastic bases.
Cutting a wood dowel into discs is a really bad idea. They will just fall apart. Cutting thin slivers of wood across the grain makes the weakest bit of wood possible. They would snap into pieces just looking at them.
Serioiusly.....just buy cheap plastic bases.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial will do, I'm glad for your experience. Gonna get started on some Warhammer as the first time with my son.
Great video man
It would be cool to see a kit bash video. Tutorial or just a "hey watch me make something cool".
Das air dry clay works in basing as well, and is relatively simple and inexpensive to do
Square bases for life.
I like plain black bases on my minis. If they are decorated, it kind feels to distracting and makes it seem like too much on one base. I can't really explain it plain black bases just look really good.
I usually use Reaper metals. Any advice on how to remove the base if I have to? And do you base before painting miniatures usually? I always thought you should base after the mini is painted.
Youll want a small modelling or jewellers saw to cut metal minis free. Basing before or after paint is up to you. Basing after can provide the best finished look but requires more skill to attach the mini after paint and look good.
Black Magic Craft Thank you for your advice. I appreciate it. 😄
I was just wondering. I was thinking of buying a 4ft 1in dowel and cutting 1/4 in pieces off. and using those as bases.you can get 48 based for every ft. I've never done that, and is there any cons doing it that way? thanks
Um, your saw will reduce the number of bases per foot -- for example a circular saw might eat 1/16 or 1/8 inch per cut. And I would not recommend wood for lead alloy minis, treated wood tends to outgas acids that can cause lead rot. Should be fine for plastics and leadfree tin.
1/4 of an inch is going to make an overly thick base. That's just over 6mm, when most bases are closer to 2mm.
Would you recommend painting the mini and base before pinning/gluing the mini onto the base? Or is it better to pin/glue the mini before painting the whole thing?
Superglue doesn't really work with painted surfaces (it will stick to the paint, not mini/base, and won't last long).
Keeping that in mind, it highly depends on the miniature. If it has a lot of details on the belly (e.i. Umberhulk from WizKids) it is easier to paint the mini and the base before gluing them together. If its a humanoid with a relatively strait pose then you can glue it first so it's easier to hold on to while painting.
It really depends on the situation. Pinning after paint is the nicer way to do it, and often how more experienced painters will do it. I don’t think it’s a great option for beginners however.
Geoffrey Hart I would recommend painting after it is glued onto the base. Just take a bit more time on the base around the already painted bits of the model.
With reaper bones though, you don't have to prime them whatsoever. So depending on the model and its pose, I would suggest painting in without being on its base, maybe use some blu tac to adhere it to a handle of some kind. I stick mine to a base i will never use and use the GW Painting handle.
Other people use a empty pill bottle or something, but the handle is more ergonomic so it makes it easier to paint for an extended period of time.
Thanks for the tip guys!
I have a dragon "mini" that has a huge base, I kinda want to add some terrain to it like sand. Any suggestions?
How do you decide what diameter you use 25mm, 50mm?
Use E6000 glue then coat in sand.
What if you have a larger miniature such as the demon lord minataur?
should have checked here first super glue not pva to glue scenic material to the base and I just started basing my first
In one of your videos you gave the real name of green stuff. I can't find this video could you tell me what it's called please
Kneadatite is the brand that makes it, and they call it Yellow/Blue. There are links on my essential equipment store if you'd like to help out the channel with your purchase.
How do you guys feel about items on miniature bases?
What's the name of that little drill tool you use to pin your minis' feet?
It's a rotary tool. More info and links on it and the other tools I use on my Essential Equipment page: blackmagiccraft.wordpress.com/shop/
6:14 Give it a blast from your spice weasel! Bam!
Anyone else use just coins for thier mini's? I find coins not only to be cheaper, but the weight makes them hard to knock over. For 1 buck I have all the bases I need. Then I super glue sand or kitty litter right onto the coins.
10: 45 Besides, if it's on a black base so it "goes with everything," it NEVER looks right... or really only looks natural when you're in the plain of shadow. At least if it's pretty pretty flowers, it looks appropriate occasionally, and, as you say, on the shelf. Also, how the h*ck are you not breaking your drill bits? I think I've snapped at least 5 Dremel fine bits (1/36) and just drilling into resin. You have a better touch, my friend.
AND finally joined your Patreon, under my real name. I owe you more than this just for getting me back into creating with my hands. Really, thanks for working so hard.
I like whizkids cause all my Minnie's are made by Whizkids. Maddness games and comics carries mainly Whizkidz minnis.
The reason some minis don't fit is because they were designed to sit on a one inch square base diagonally. They are used in miniature wargaming.
Sure that could be true of some, but most of the Reaper Bones stuff is made for tabletop rpgs not war gamming and this is a thing that happens with wizkids minis that are officially D&D branded minis that COME WITH round bases. So I’m not really buying that reasoning.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Reaper had a skirmish wargame called Warlord which used 1" square bases. I have a copy of the open beta from 2003, and the Reaper Bones were originally intended as a less expensive way to fill out your warband, with the "Warlord" line being the Captains/Leaders.
I think the real issue with mini bases being too large to fit bases is "scale creep". Minis used to be 25mm then they crept up to 28mm. Reaper then called 28mm "heroic scale" because it was ridiculous to continue to call these 25mm. Some of the newer minis seem to be approaching 30mm. It's really obvious when you have minis from 20 years ago next to new ones, the new ones look 7ft tall.