I am in the UK I have a 2 year old 62kw leaf and I had issue where my car would not start meaning fire up in hv system. It was again a low battery. My Nissan dealer would not replace the 12v as it was at 50% charge. So just charged it. Now I put it on a trickle charge every so often. Been good
I just got this error today and can’t drive the car anywhere after it told me the first time once I turn it off it wouldn’t move again, I tested the 12 volt battery and it passed how ever the volts on the battery not in the car I took it to autozone and orileys they are saying the volts are only reading 12.2-12.3 max do you think I should buy a new battery even if it passed and reads 12.3 max ? May help solve the issue ? I can’t drive the car or charge it after the errors popped up. 2019 Nissan leaf sv plus 14,000 miles
Hopefully HOPEFULLY it is just the 12 v that needs replacement! I have had battery failure the last couple of days. But it has worked well, but today the car stopped again. I got it to work again, but all of a sudden the yellow exclamation warning sign came on. I could still drive the car. I stopped it in the garage and started it again. The warning sign disappeared. I haven't driven it since. Must change battery on Monday, see what happens!
No, I replaced it myself. My Leaf dealer is 35 miles away and it was too much of a hassle for a $120 battery. I'm sure they would have replaced under warranty I just didn't.
Hi Niko, thanks for your report about the battery. Actually, I am looking for these kinds of reports, as my 62 Kwh Leaf showed the same warning sign. This was after trying to plug in my Setec V2H inverter, which I use to power my gridless house in France when the batteries of my solar system are running low. This used to go without problems, until this time...The inverter and the car somehow didn't get along, and I could only slowly drive to the dealer 60 km further on (one of the THREE Nissan dealers in France that can handle more serious problems in France, so I was very lucky!). I told them honestly what happened, which caused me to pay for the diagnostics myself (about 400 $) with as a result the resetting of the system. After that, all was well again, only I don't dare to use my inverter device again! Now, you said something very interesting at the end (after putting the trickle charger in the car): "Reset the code"!! How did you do that, or is it done automatically? If I could do that myself, it might be worth trying again to connect my inverter (which is fantastic, by the way). In this inverter there is also a 12V battery to establish the contact with the car via the Chademo plug. Maybe that battery is also getting unloaded, causing the warning signal to light up?
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Check out this alternative solution for off grid power. ruclips.net/video/0RNaLEwe1FM/видео.html As far as clearing the codes, you need LeafSpy Pro and an LeLink OBD-II device to be able to clear the codes. I did an unboxing and initial run of LeafSpy in a video. I'll provide that link as well.
I am perplexed as to why you had a fault. Nissan has had bidirectional Chademo for over a decade. Did the dealership tell you the codes that were present before clearing them?
@@NoGasNiko Thanks for your quick response! I had been using my Setec device a couple of months earlier for 14 days (switching between 'solar power' for the house and 'car power' when the houses's batteries went low, and all went well, so I knew I had a good working device. After two months we came back to France, and we needed the car's power and that didn't work out then. I asked the French Nissan Garage for the diagnostics, which they gave me. The last 5 errors were all different, but had the same 'piece number': 237D0-5SR7D (all VE/VEH system). They are, from bottom to top of the list): U1009-1C "comm chargeur rapide" U1000-01 "CIRCUIT COMM CAN" B2830-17 "capteur de tension de charge rapide" P31B8-87 "erreur communication" P3172-97 "SYSTEME DE MODULE D'ALIM" (Alim= alimentation= power supply) All of them had "PASSE" behind the information, which could either mean 'past' , 'passed', or 'passes' , except for the one on top of the list, the SYSTEME DE MODULE D'ALIM", which had "actual" behind it. There were several other errors (7) with other system codes, like "METER/M&A", "BCM", "MULTI AV", "LASER/RADAR" etc, but I doubt it if they have to do with my recent problem. They were all reset and the problem was gone. They showed and gave me the list with the system codes before and after resetting. Because of what I told them, there was no warranty applying. If you are interested, I can send them to you. Thanks very much for your help already!
My toyota prius does this a lot found out if you dont lock the door car stays awake and in a few weeks months 12v charge drops I lock the doors and throw the 12v battery on 2amp 12v charge for 8hrs once every two hours and everything works as it should.
I had same problem ( multiple times - because the dealer couldnt figure it out)...I turns out my 12 volt battery kept going flat because I don't drive very much and charge the big battery infrequently. I was told to charge the 12 volt battery every other day! Well that sounds like a major design flaw... if the 12 volt battery is so important why no gauge to inform the driver of the impending doom! I decided to install a permanent 12 volt trickle charger on the car and now charge the 12 volt battery every other day regardless of the main battery charging ( because I have even had the 12 volt battery go flat after charging the main battery to 80 percent). Nissan still stands by their position that there is nothing wrong with the car! - Yeah, right!
I'm losing faith in Nissan Service myself. My next EV will likely not be another Nissan..... I hope your fix works out for you. I've only had this one issue with my 2020.
Weird. I never had to worry about the 12v battery and i have the car for almost 5 years, the main battery should take care of charging it. Sometimes i leave the car stopped for 2 or 3 days with 40% or even lower. During the pandemic it was weeks.
@@fr33mynd I think the problem has been solved. I took my car to another Nissan dealer and they researched all the error codes and found a bad switch that was shorted out and they found some type of big battery fault. They sent the whole car to a specially equipped Nissan dealer and they fixed some kind of fault. Anyway the car has been trouble free for over a month now. I guess the take-away is if something doesn't get resolved one should seek a second opinion. My original dealer is no longer a Nissan dealer...so it seems they had problems to begin with. Thanks for your follow up. Good luck to you.
David can you give anymore context/detail to what your Ev went through my battery has gone flat and have watched multiple videos your comment gives me more Hope than any I’ve read…little help please …re battery fault, re Bad Switch?
I have a 2020 leaf here in th UK and I noticed No.3 Blue light would come on randomly so I investigated, what was happening, the Auxilliary 12v battery was keeping its self charged up, by taking what it needed from the main big drive battery , this is what its supposed to do as far as I am aware, it could be that if this feature is not working properly and thats where the problem is starting from, the problem is it may be doing it this when you are not around, I have a security camera which will recorded any of these 3 lamps coming on, so I can check if if its charging properly over night, when they run their 1,2,3 sequence when charging, anyway though I would mention this self topping up feature, as you may never have seen it working.
Thanks for watching. I ha e seen this working and since I replaced my 12v battery the problem went away. I may have bought the car with a weak battery to start with. At least that's the conclusion in my mind 😁. It's been a few months now and we have not had any issues. I am considering getting deep cycle batteries when it's time to replace again, hopefully several years from now.
I had a 12V battery failure while sitting overnight right after I had charged the 40 kWh battery in my 2018 Leaf. Battery was 6 months old. Boosted it and it ran fine for about a week and then the same thing. Deader than a door nail. Had to use the key to open the car and get out the battery booster. BTW, which I now keep it in the glove compartment since you can't open the trunk when the 12 V is dead. Sounds like the dealer gave me a bum battery or did not charge it before installation. One more try before I get it fully charged with a battery charger. Hmm... I thought the big battery was supposed to do that?
The traction battery is supposed to charge the 12v. Watch my video where I ran a 2000 watt inverter powering an infrared heater. That 12v should be toast if the main battery wasn't charging it with the DC to DC inverter. Hopefully there isn't a problem with your charging system. I bet it's a lot more expensive than an alternator......
Leaf Spy Pro reports the current battery voltages (both). 12.7 is kinda low (not really charging) if you are moving. 13.7 is a normal while charging (~80F)
Disregard my last comment, I thought it was a different video. The charging comment is true but I think you are correct saying 12.7 seems low. My apologies, still had the latest video on my mind.
I assume you have the 30 kWh? Those were known to die quickly. I bought a 2017 for that reason so I can get a 40 kWh warranty replacement. My 62 kWh battery in my 2020 is doing much better, I can see me hitting over 100,000 miles before getting close to losing one segment. Best of luck to you, I know it sucks.
Find a dealer that has a technician that will look at all of the car's error codes. My technician found 2 error codes that were critical to solving my car's 12 volt battery discharging. My original dealer found nothing or didn't bother looking/ just blamed me for not driving enough...
@@NoGasNiko I am screwed..😱🇺🇸🇪🇺i lift that car,and did some pics,after that dalasev nissan leaf expert from finnland told me that the last owner that EV Rides in Portland Oregon likely swaped out the battery for a old one..and he was right..i found they put in some screws as spacers on it..that confirms it...(scam)..if its a 24 or 30 it wont work,and if its a 40 it will with a canbus,he told..me..7k $ was a good price donesticly..but till here i already at 16,6..i assume its finished and need a spare 62kwh battery it will end up over 25k$..🤔🥵no Wonder no John Doe can afford a EV..
@@NoGasNiko Here in Germany you can get a 40amp battery, brandnew for 40$..if bring in your old one,only higher Amp like 70amps one costs 80$..but US ones are got smaler sizes with over 70amps,but they expensive..🤔🇺🇸🇩🇪
I will get that spy leaf pro..then find out more about that oregon salvage leaf 2019..i think i must keep it..forever..or loose a bigbuck on it..🥵lets see..🤔
@@NoGasNiko not yet because it just happend , it was parked not able to move but i just searched it on youtube found your video , exactly same problem . i parked at work andnplugged in charging but when i come back it won't start and all sign just flashing and no power
The 12V accessory battery in the Leaf will only see a 13.0V float charge most of the time. After turning the Leaf to ON the battery may see something closer to 13.8V for a few seconds but will quickly return to a float charge. It's because of this low float charge that a quality and healthy SLA is needed. There is a lot of talk from people suggesting the use of one of the Lithium flavors now available in 12V configurations as a replacement for the Leaf's Lead Acid accessory battery. I believe that trying to convert to the new LiFePo technology now available for 12V automotive applications may not be be best replacement for the accessory battery. LiFePo will need to see something closer to 14.0V to stay properly charged. This is easy on a typical ICE where the alternator will typically put out between 13.8V and 14.8V. Also wouldn't want to use the LTO technology that's now available for 12V automotive applications as it needs to see something closer to 14.5-15.0V to stay properly charged. You could make your own using five LTO cells (nominal 2.5V) in series and it would last forever in a Leaf.
That seems like a lot of work. Spending $140 every couple of years on a 12v battery is no big deal with how much I'm saving in fuel. Not a bad idea, someone could find this info useful. Thanks for sharing.
@@NoGasNiko - My 2019 was purchased as a left over and had sat on the dealers lot until April of 2020. Because of this I believe the 12V accessory battery was damaged. The dealers really don't take proper care of EV's (you may know the reason for that). As a result my accessory battery slowly died. However, the one in my 2015 lasted 6 years which is very good for a central Maryland climate.
I just got this error today and can’t drive the car anywhere after it told me the first time once I turn it off it wouldn’t move again, I tested the 12 volt battery and it passed how ever the volt on the battery not in the car I took it to autozone and orileys they are saying the volts are only reading 12.2-12.3 max do you think I should buy a new battery even if it passed and reads 12.3 max ? May help solve the issue ? I can’t drive the car or charge it after the errors popped up. 2019 Nissan leaf sv plus 14,000 miles
@exambly if the battery drops below 12v you'll get that warning. Leafs don't behave like traditional cars. I would replace the battery. Cheapest and easiest thing to do before taking it into the dealership. They'll charge you a diagnostic fee that's way more than the battery. Hopefully that will solve your issue, I believe it will.
@@NoGasNiko let me copy and paste what I just posted on Reddit so you can be aware 2019 Leaf Sv plus Error Service ev System unable to restart after power off Today I got in my 2019 Nissan leaf sv plus 14,000 miles and started driving I recieved an error message saying “Service ev System unable to restart after power off” yet it drove just fine like any other day prior to turning it off, I simply went straight after that 12 volt under the hood since the weather has been getting colder in California in the last week. I took the 12 volt to auto zone and orileys and the battery passed however they did tell me the battery is only reading 12.2 volts. I had them charge it at the store and still receive the error of service ev system by it self. The car will not go in drive or reverse only neutral and will not charge either. Should I try a new 12v battery off the simple fact of mine is only getting 12.2? Or should i skip all this and just get it towed to a dealership, I bought the car less then 1200 miles ago and rejected the warranty however its still cover on the larger battery for 8 years if could possibly be a bad cell or something.
Yikes gotta correct you there on that one. By definition. Not what some hobo says on some online form. A Transmission has multiple gear ratios it can shift through. A gear box has a single fixed ratio and cannot shift. Thus, this car does not have a transmission. It has a gearbox. Anyone flipping the terms around is incorrect and needs to go back to 2nt trimester engineering.
I agree with you. I was talking about the definition provided by Oxford which states "the mechanism by which power is transmitted from an engine to the wheels of a motor vehicle". I get that argument all the time. Even Nissan named it a transmission service on the bill.
@@NoGasNiko I have the 2018 leaf - I just got it , I over paid for it but I like it . The 150 mile range It’s like having a ice vehicle with only a 5 gallon tank.; wonder if there’s a way to increase the range on these without a whole lot of hassle .
Can you increase the range, yes. Without a lot of hassle, no. Range is directly related to battery capacity. That's why I went with the Plus model, figured I'd be happier with the added range.
@@NoGasNiko These leafs use a chatemo Connector which I found one at an ev go station and just for the heck of it - tried it ; the thing is this: they didn’t charge per kilowatt they charge per minute which was $.30 . To my understanding the chademo is going to be discontinued. This is my first electric vehicle so I was quite surprised it’s performance and if you are easy on the throttles, you can get some pretty good range out of it but what is amazing about it is it’s takeoff . I’ve been charging mine on the trickle charger overnight and I have no complaints about the amount of time it takes to charge the car, If anything charging on the trickle charger is probably better for the battery than using the high speed charger.
These smal🤔 leaf stock 12v batteries are junk,mine was empty dead after it arrived in Europe,lets hope i not got scammed on the big one.its empty too..could be swapped by the previous owner,before it goes to copart..even they wrote Run&drive..??🤔🇺🇸🇪🇺i will check it at the Nissan dealership..
@@NoGasNiko Salvage EVs are a high Gamble,sort like a Pokergame in a Casino,even i got overhere the cheapest possibble Labor 🤔🇪🇺on rebuilt and paintings,and most stuff i will.install myself, if the main battery is swaped to a old junk one ,there will be no profit in it,after shipping and customs and spare parts a used main battery is just too expensive,the 7k purchase is now at 16k..already till here😱🇺🇸🇪🇺.19k if the battery is ok..if not i assume 25 to 27k..atleast..🤔
@@NoGasNiko yes,i now at 16k already..for a salvage (leaf 2019 plusmodel)..min.19k if its finished, but if the main battery is done,i assume it cost me 25k..🥵parts i can get cheap from the uk..labor in Germany is cheap about 30$ a hour..Salvage EVs are a high Gamble..
I’m in the UK, and my Nissan is a 40kw 2018/19 (99000 miles) model and this same error has come in the dash a few times and found myself stuck dead in traffic numerous times. Took my Nissan to local Nissan Dealer. They first thought it was the 12v battery and replaced it at £300. The car was fine for about 2 weeks and then same error came up. And now the car is completely dead. I got the car towed to the NISSAN Dealer and they want to charge me £750 to run a diagnostic test and if a cell is in the Battery is damaged it will cost £3500 per cell to replace. I have contacted NISSAN GB and they they have just turned around and said that this is not covered by the Battery Warranty of 8Yrs/100000miles??!! Surely Nissan should take responsibility for this?? Please explain this to me or AUS anybody else had a similar issue and how did they go about getting it sorted?
I am in the UK I have a 2 year old 62kw leaf and I had issue where my car would not start meaning fire up in hv system. It was again a low battery. My Nissan dealer would not replace the 12v as it was at 50% charge. So just charged it. Now I put it on a trickle charge every so often. Been good
Seems like keeping a 12V battery healthy in these cars takes extra work.
I just got this error today and can’t drive the car anywhere after it told me the first time once I turn it off it wouldn’t move again, I tested the 12 volt battery and it passed how ever the volts on the battery not in the car I took it to autozone and orileys they are saying the volts are only reading 12.2-12.3 max do you think I should buy a new battery even if it passed and reads 12.3 max ? May help solve the issue ? I can’t drive the car or charge it after the errors popped up. 2019 Nissan leaf sv plus 14,000 miles
Hopefully HOPEFULLY it is just the 12 v that needs replacement! I have had battery failure the last couple of days. But it has worked well, but today the car stopped again. I got it to work again, but all of a sudden the yellow exclamation warning sign came on. I could still drive the car. I stopped it in the garage and started it again. The warning sign disappeared. I haven't driven it since. Must change battery on Monday, see what happens!
It was. After the new 12V it's been fine. Thanks for watching.
Did you get the original Leaf 12 V Battery that failed replaced by the dealer for free under warranty? Did you return the 12 V battery to Sams Club?
No, I replaced it myself. My Leaf dealer is 35 miles away and it was too much of a hassle for a $120 battery. I'm sure they would have replaced under warranty I just didn't.
Hi Niko, thanks for your report about the battery. Actually, I am looking for these kinds of reports, as my 62 Kwh Leaf showed the same warning sign. This was after trying to plug in my Setec V2H inverter, which I use to power my gridless house in France when the batteries of my solar system are running low. This used to go without problems, until this time...The inverter and the car somehow didn't get along, and I could only slowly drive to the dealer 60 km further on (one of the THREE Nissan dealers in France that can handle more serious problems in France, so I was very lucky!). I told them honestly what happened, which caused me to pay for the diagnostics myself (about 400 $) with as a result the resetting of the system. After that, all was well again, only I don't dare to use my inverter device again! Now, you said something very interesting at the end (after putting the trickle charger in the car): "Reset the code"!! How did you do that, or is it done automatically? If I could do that myself, it might be worth trying again to connect my inverter (which is fantastic, by the way). In this inverter there is also a 12V battery to establish the contact with the car via the Chademo plug. Maybe that battery is also getting unloaded, causing the warning signal to light up?
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Check out this alternative solution for off grid power.
ruclips.net/video/0RNaLEwe1FM/видео.html
As far as clearing the codes, you need LeafSpy Pro and an LeLink OBD-II device to be able to clear the codes. I did an unboxing and initial run of LeafSpy in a video. I'll provide that link as well.
Here is my video on LeafSpy.
ruclips.net/video/m4MfaTGQ80k/видео.html
I am perplexed as to why you had a fault. Nissan has had bidirectional Chademo for over a decade. Did the dealership tell you the codes that were present before clearing them?
@@NoGasNiko Thanks for your quick response! I had been using my Setec device a couple of months earlier for 14 days (switching between 'solar power' for the house and 'car power' when the houses's batteries went low, and all went well, so I knew I had a good working device. After two months we came back to France, and we needed the car's power and that didn't work out then.
I asked the French Nissan Garage for the diagnostics, which they gave me. The last 5 errors were all different, but had the same 'piece number': 237D0-5SR7D (all VE/VEH system). They are, from bottom to top of the list):
U1009-1C "comm chargeur rapide"
U1000-01 "CIRCUIT COMM CAN"
B2830-17 "capteur de tension de charge rapide"
P31B8-87 "erreur communication"
P3172-97 "SYSTEME DE MODULE D'ALIM" (Alim= alimentation= power supply)
All of them had "PASSE" behind the information, which could either mean 'past' , 'passed', or 'passes' , except for the one on top of the list, the SYSTEME DE MODULE D'ALIM", which had "actual" behind it.
There were several other errors (7) with other system codes, like "METER/M&A", "BCM", "MULTI AV", "LASER/RADAR" etc, but I doubt it if they have to do with my recent problem.
They were all reset and the problem was gone. They showed and gave me the list with the system codes before and after resetting. Because of what I told them, there was no warranty applying. If you are interested, I can send them to you. Thanks very much for your help already!
My toyota prius does this a lot found out if you dont lock the door car stays awake and in a few weeks months 12v charge drops I lock the doors and throw the 12v battery on 2amp 12v charge for 8hrs once every two hours and everything works as it should.
I had same problem ( multiple times - because the dealer couldnt figure it out)...I turns out my 12 volt battery kept going flat because I don't drive very much and charge the big battery infrequently. I was told to charge the 12 volt battery every other day! Well that sounds like a major design flaw... if the 12 volt battery is so important why no gauge to inform the driver of the impending doom! I decided to install a permanent 12 volt trickle charger on the car and now charge the 12 volt battery every other day regardless of the main battery charging ( because I have even had the 12 volt battery go flat after charging the main battery to 80 percent). Nissan still stands by their position that there is nothing wrong with the car! - Yeah, right!
I'm losing faith in Nissan Service myself. My next EV will likely not be another Nissan.....
I hope your fix works out for you. I've only had this one issue with my 2020.
Weird. I never had to worry about the 12v battery and i have the car for almost 5 years, the main battery should take care of charging it. Sometimes i leave the car stopped for 2 or 3 days with 40% or even lower. During the pandemic it was weeks.
@@fr33mynd I think the problem has been solved. I took my car to another Nissan dealer and they researched all the error codes and found a bad switch that was shorted out and they found some type of big battery fault. They sent the whole car to a specially equipped Nissan dealer and they fixed some kind of fault. Anyway the car has been trouble free for over a month now. I guess the take-away is if something doesn't get resolved one should seek a second opinion. My original dealer is no longer a Nissan dealer...so it seems they had problems to begin with. Thanks for your follow up. Good luck to you.
David can you give anymore context/detail to what your Ev went through my battery has gone flat and have watched multiple videos your comment gives me more
Hope than any I’ve read…little help please …re battery fault, re Bad Switch?
Question. If your car was still under warranty, why did they charge you a diagnostic fee?
I had the same question. They said I wouldn't pay if they found an issue. If this last test finds the issue, I'll be requesting a refund.
I have a 2020 leaf here in th UK and I noticed No.3 Blue light would come on randomly so I investigated, what was happening, the Auxilliary 12v battery was keeping its self charged up, by taking what it needed from the main big drive battery , this is what its supposed to do as far as I am aware, it could be that if this feature is not working properly and thats where the problem is starting from, the problem is it may be doing it this when you are not around, I have a security camera which will recorded any of these 3 lamps coming on, so I can check if if its charging properly over night, when they run their 1,2,3 sequence when charging, anyway though I would mention this self topping up feature, as you may never have seen it working.
Thanks for watching. I ha e seen this working and since I replaced my 12v battery the problem went away. I may have bought the car with a weak battery to start with. At least that's the conclusion in my mind 😁. It's been a few months now and we have not had any issues. I am considering getting deep cycle batteries when it's time to replace again, hopefully several years from now.
Ok. Thanks for the feedback.
You're welcome
@@JeffS_EV_Talks Just to update you brother , i have called recovery , they have just replaced 12v battery and all went good .
@AsimShah-rk2xe excellent news!
Lock your door every day charge 12v battery every 2yrs will solve many issues on gas,hybrid and Evs
Alls well that ends well
Hasn't ended just yet. Let's see how long it takes to get the battery. I am happy knowing that it will happen now.
I had a 12V battery failure while sitting overnight right after I had charged the 40 kWh battery in my 2018 Leaf. Battery was 6 months old. Boosted it and it ran fine for about a week and then the same thing. Deader than a door nail. Had to use the key to open the car and get out the battery booster. BTW, which I now keep it in the glove compartment since you can't open the trunk when the 12 V is dead. Sounds like the dealer gave me a bum battery or did not charge it before installation. One more try before I get it fully charged with a battery charger. Hmm... I thought the big battery was supposed to do that?
The traction battery is supposed to charge the 12v. Watch my video where I ran a 2000 watt inverter powering an infrared heater. That 12v should be toast if the main battery wasn't charging it with the DC to DC inverter. Hopefully there isn't a problem with your charging system. I bet it's a lot more expensive than an alternator......
Leaf Spy Pro reports the current battery voltages (both). 12.7 is kinda low (not really charging) if you are moving. 13.7 is a normal while charging (~80F)
Disregard my last comment, I thought it was a different video. The charging comment is true but I think you are correct saying 12.7 seems low. My apologies, still had the latest video on my mind.
I have a 2016 leaf and I am on my third 12 volt battery. As well as that I have list 3 battery bars andc1/4 of it's range. Never again !
I assume you have the 30 kWh? Those were known to die quickly. I bought a 2017 for that reason so I can get a 40 kWh warranty replacement. My 62 kWh battery in my 2020 is doing much better, I can see me hitting over 100,000 miles before getting close to losing one segment. Best of luck to you, I know it sucks.
Find a dealer that has a technician that will look at all of the car's error codes. My technician found 2 error codes that were critical to solving my car's 12 volt battery discharging. My original dealer found nothing or didn't bother looking/ just blamed me for not driving enough...
My dealer did a good job. I figured out it was the 12v but had them go through it just in case. Car has been good ever since.
Dude i would advise to put a stronger12 battery,even the space is narrow,maybe i weld a bigger plate later on its space..
Seams like a lot of work. I was OK with spending $150 or so on a new battery. Even if it only lasts 2 years I'm still way ahead in fuel savings.
@@NoGasNiko I am screwed..😱🇺🇸🇪🇺i lift that car,and did some pics,after that dalasev nissan leaf expert from finnland told me that the last owner that EV Rides in Portland Oregon likely swaped out the battery for a old one..and he was right..i found they put in some screws as spacers on it..that confirms it...(scam)..if its a 24 or 30 it wont work,and if its a 40 it will with a canbus,he told..me..7k $ was a
good price donesticly..but till here i already at 16,6..i assume its finished and need a spare 62kwh battery it will end up over 25k$..🤔🥵no Wonder no John Doe can afford a EV..
@@NoGasNiko Here in Germany you can get a 40amp battery, brandnew for 40$..if bring in your old one,only higher Amp like 70amps one costs 80$..but US ones are got smaler sizes with over 70amps,but they expensive..🤔🇺🇸🇩🇪
I will get that spy leaf pro..then find out more about that oregon salvage leaf 2019..i think i must keep it..forever..or loose a bigbuck on it..🥵lets see..🤔
That doesn't sound good.
I have the same problem how i can fix it, can u help me pls
My problem was the 12v battery under the hood of the car. Start there. Should be above 12 volts when the car is shut off.
A battery tester might be a good purchase. I had to buy one to test my CRV 12v battery which would die every so many years.
Thanks.
i m having today same situation , so much worry about because its 2019 and warranty. gone , but its only driven 45k
Have you checked the 12V battery yet?
@@NoGasNiko not yet because it just happend , it was parked not able to move
but i just searched it on youtube found your video , exactly same problem .
i parked at work andnplugged in charging but when i come back it won't start and all sign just flashing and no power
Is that the original battery? If it is I'm willing to bet that's your problem. Keep me posted.
@@NoGasNiko tbh i didn't check , but i ll keep you update by monday , will take it to nissan dealership
The 12V accessory battery in the Leaf will only see a 13.0V float charge most of the time. After turning the Leaf to ON the battery may see something closer to 13.8V for a few seconds but will quickly return to a float charge. It's because of this low float charge that a quality and healthy SLA is needed. There is a lot of talk from people suggesting the use of one of the Lithium flavors now available in 12V configurations as a replacement for the Leaf's Lead Acid accessory battery. I believe that trying to convert to the new LiFePo technology now available for 12V automotive applications may not be be best replacement for the accessory battery. LiFePo will need to see something closer to 14.0V to stay properly charged. This is easy on a typical ICE where the alternator will typically put out between 13.8V and 14.8V. Also wouldn't want to use the LTO technology that's now available for 12V automotive applications as it needs to see something closer to 14.5-15.0V to stay properly charged. You could make your own using five LTO cells (nominal 2.5V) in series and it would last forever in a Leaf.
That seems like a lot of work. Spending $140 every couple of years on a 12v battery is no big deal with how much I'm saving in fuel. Not a bad idea, someone could find this info useful. Thanks for sharing.
@@NoGasNiko - My 2019 was purchased as a left over and had sat on the dealers lot until April of 2020. Because of this I believe the 12V accessory battery was damaged. The dealers really don't take proper care of EV's (you may know the reason for that). As a result my accessory battery slowly died. However, the one in my 2015 lasted 6 years which is very good for a central Maryland climate.
I just got this error today and can’t drive the car anywhere after it told me the first time once I turn it off it wouldn’t move again, I tested the 12 volt battery and it passed how ever the volt on the battery not in the car I took it to autozone and orileys they are saying the volts are only reading 12.2-12.3 max do you think I should buy a new battery even if it passed and reads 12.3 max ? May help solve the issue ? I can’t drive the car or charge it after the errors popped up. 2019 Nissan leaf sv plus 14,000 miles
@exambly if the battery drops below 12v you'll get that warning. Leafs don't behave like traditional cars. I would replace the battery. Cheapest and easiest thing to do before taking it into the dealership. They'll charge you a diagnostic fee that's way more than the battery. Hopefully that will solve your issue, I believe it will.
@@NoGasNiko let me copy and paste what I just posted on Reddit so you can be aware
2019 Leaf Sv plus Error Service ev System unable to restart after power off
Today I got in my 2019 Nissan leaf sv plus 14,000 miles and started driving I recieved an error message saying “Service ev System unable to restart after power off” yet it drove just fine like any other day prior to turning it off, I simply went straight after that 12 volt under the hood since the weather has been getting colder in California in the last week. I took the 12 volt to auto zone and orileys and the battery passed however they did tell me the battery is only reading 12.2 volts. I had them charge it at the store and still receive the error of service ev system by it self. The car will not go in drive or reverse only neutral and will not charge either. Should I try a new 12v battery off the simple fact of mine is only getting 12.2? Or should i skip all this and just get it towed to a dealership, I bought the car less then 1200 miles ago and rejected the warranty however its still cover on the larger battery for 8 years if could possibly be a bad cell or something.
Yikes gotta correct you there on that one.
By definition. Not what some hobo says on some online form. A Transmission has multiple gear ratios it can shift through. A gear box has a single fixed ratio and cannot shift. Thus, this car does not have a transmission. It has a gearbox. Anyone flipping the terms around is incorrect and needs to go back to 2nt trimester engineering.
I agree with you. I was talking about the definition provided by Oxford which states "the mechanism by which power is transmitted from an engine to the wheels of a motor vehicle". I get that argument all the time. Even Nissan named it a transmission service on the bill.
The logic battery hiccup .
Caught me off guard for sure.
@@NoGasNiko I have the 2018 leaf - I just got it , I over paid for it but I like it . The 150 mile range It’s like having a ice vehicle with only a 5 gallon tank.; wonder if there’s a way to increase the range on these without a whole lot of hassle .
Can you increase the range, yes. Without a lot of hassle, no. Range is directly related to battery capacity. That's why I went with the Plus model, figured I'd be happier with the added range.
@@NoGasNiko These leafs use a chatemo Connector which I found one at an ev go station and just for the heck of it - tried it ; the thing is this: they didn’t charge per kilowatt they charge per minute which was $.30 . To my understanding the chademo is going to be discontinued. This is my first electric vehicle so I was quite surprised it’s performance and if you are easy on the throttles, you can get some pretty good range out of it but what is amazing about it is it’s takeoff . I’ve been charging mine on the trickle charger overnight and I have no complaints about the amount of time it takes to charge the car, If anything charging on the trickle charger is probably better for the battery than using the high speed charger.
These smal🤔 leaf stock 12v batteries are junk,mine was empty dead after it arrived in Europe,lets hope i not got scammed on the big one.its empty too..could be swapped by the previous owner,before it goes to copart..even they wrote Run&drive..??🤔🇺🇸🇪🇺i will check it at the Nissan dealership..
Hope you figure it out.
@@NoGasNiko Salvage EVs are a high Gamble,sort like a Pokergame in a Casino,even i got overhere the cheapest possibble Labor 🤔🇪🇺on rebuilt and paintings,and most stuff i will.install myself, if the main battery
is swaped to a old junk one ,there will be no profit in it,after shipping and customs and spare parts a used main battery is just too expensive,the 7k purchase is now at 16k..already till here😱🇺🇸🇪🇺.19k if the battery is ok..if not i assume 25 to 27k..atleast..🤔
WOW, that's really expensive!
@@NoGasNiko yes,i now at 16k already..for a salvage (leaf 2019 plusmodel)..min.19k if its finished, but if the main battery is done,i assume it cost me 25k..🥵parts i can get cheap from the uk..labor in Germany is cheap about 30$ a hour..Salvage EVs are a high Gamble..
I’m in the UK, and my Nissan is a 40kw 2018/19 (99000 miles) model and this same error has come in the dash a few times and found myself stuck dead in traffic numerous times.
Took my Nissan to local Nissan Dealer. They first thought it was the 12v battery and replaced it at £300.
The car was fine for about 2 weeks and then same error came up. And now the car is completely dead.
I got the car towed to the NISSAN Dealer and they want to charge me £750 to run a diagnostic test and if a cell is in the Battery is damaged it will cost £3500 per cell to replace.
I have contacted NISSAN GB and they they have just turned around and said that this is not covered by the Battery Warranty of 8Yrs/100000miles??!!
Surely Nissan should take responsibility for this??
Please explain this to me or AUS anybody else had a similar issue and how did they go about getting it sorted?