English Wheel Build - The Details
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- In this video we cover all of the details in finishing the English Wheel build. Getting these key parts made and measured took a long time but the results speak for themselves.
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A person told me to fill the tubes with sand. So I packed the sand as best I could. It worked good before and it works now. On the planishing hammer, filling and packing with sand worked much better. In my shop, I paint danger points yellow. So by the roller paint yellow with a small sign that says; Always wear gloves!. The rest of it use the red that Lincoln welder. Thank you for sharing.
I should be able to start my first project in a month or so using the machine. I can't wait to learn how that works.
Hoosier Profiles is good to go!
I know... but at the time, Joe was saying that he was out of the wheel game. I'm very glad he's still committed to supplying the very best wheels.
Incredible work! I would watch you read the operational instructions on a box of paper towels..... You are the best example of real world genius. A guy who gets it done. The attention to details and the artistry of application. . Best.. Tool, work, car, machining, welding, engine, paint, project channel on RUclips. Awesome as always...
Thanks Marc - very much appreciated. It's sure been a fun project and I can't wait to fumble around trying to make panels for real.
"They just have an opinion, I hate that"
LOL - well, it's a philosophy.
Great work. Try hammering your part into its rough shape then wheeling it smooth. You will be amazed at your ability from the get go. Also, doing this would demonstrate how the English wheel is used for smoothing panels to.
Upcoming video! When I'm done making stainless steel trim.
Awesome skills! I think Covelle would be impressed!
Thanks - I have learned a lot reading his books and watching his videos over the years.
Great job Mate 😀. I am going to try and make one myself. Your home made English wheel is inspirational. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks 👍
Green for the win!
It's in the running for sure. I've got to get a few samples.
Happy days I've been waiting for this to drop
Hope you enjoyed it!
That is one incredibly precise running English Wheel from your garage with modest tools. Great inspiration to us all.
Thanks 👍
I think you built yourself the best possible English Wheel. I would order one directly if you decided to produce a batch! Thank you for making these interesting videos!
Thanks! High praise indeed. Can't wait to try making real panels.
All English Wheels have some flex to allow for varying material thickness, smoothing wrinkles from shrinking either manual or by shrinker stretcher, ect. What is truly the bane of a wheel is side to side motion as the material is moved back and forth. Very similar to a bead roller needing to be strengthened perpendicular to the die axis. Yours is definitely if adequate strength my friend! Oh and Powdercoat is cured at approx 250° f and will have zero effect on the frame.
Good to know - I'm always worried about the heat cycle! I thought about adding more 6" X 3" to the frame perpendicular to the original frame for exactly this reason. I just didn't have enough material and I would have to order 24' of the stuff...so far so good.
@@ThrottleStopGarage 250 F? I've worked in powder coating for over 30 years, the lower end for us is 350 with most running around 400 F plus some extra dwell time for the thickness of the material but that still shouldn't distort your frame.
Most impressive machine you've made! I'll go back to my Eastwood bolt together bench top model now. (sigh)
@@allanpeters Thanks Allan - as long as I get confirmation from experts like yourself that nothing weird is going to happen, I'm happy to send it out.
Not sure how I missed your channel til now as I've been researching an English wheel build for months now... but I'm so happy I have found it now. Great quality videos and information. And as a lifelong Volvo fan I must compliment you on your sweatshirt! Thanks for the great videos.
Welcome aboard! I'm happy you have found the information useful. Those awesome sweatshirts are also available in the store (check description).
This episode is brought to you by the letter C. First that came to me when you stood it up. Nice work to bad you couldn't just clear coat it. Really enjoyed the series.
First Sesame Street reference! Glad you've enjoyed it so far. Now to make something.
Great job, love your attention to detail. From an Expat in China who is looking forward to getting home in the summer and building some tools. So that must be a Nova Scotia Volvo.
Thanks - Yes - it was assembled in Nova Scotia.
Another work of art from the Professor of meticulisis!
LOL - well, I try Alan.
Love the new intro... Very impressed with the build and results!
Thanks - it was fun to play around with something new! Filming in 4K sure does fill up the hard drives though.
I got a harbor freight English wheel 3 years ago 230 dollars really more than happy with it it's the same one that many companies sell for 700 dollars, does very well for the classic car panels I make,, most panels you can buy cheaper than you can make them anyway, but it's nice to have anyway.
I know a few people with these wheels - no one complains.
@@ThrottleStopGarage my only complaint is it only came with one bottle die and I kick myself for not buying a set 2 year's ago for 150 bucks now there 250.
I'm almost done my English wheel project that I call OVERKILL. it has a 52" throat and is made out of 14×4×3/8 rectangular tubing.. I bought the Hoosier profile wheel and anvils...I'm saddened to hear Joe is not making them anymore...they are a work of art. He engraved my moniker on the wheel.. I appreciate your craftsmanship and precision on all your videos..
52" That's HUGE! I appreciate craft and those that take care to make nice things. Joe's wheels are works of art. It's too bad it's more of a hobby industry than something he could make work.
Great 👍 work, I think bright yellow with black letters would make it stand out!
Thanks - I'm trying to work out a machine plate or something to signal that I built the thing - I do expect it may outlast me.
Try Cerakote Titanium, that is a greenish color. You can paint it yourself, because it's an
air-cure product.
We're having trouble getting anything across the border. Just had the powder sent back because it had sat for over a week without being delivered.
Very nice one... I like your attention to details. If you don't plan to move the frame to much... you can fill the inside with concrete, yap you should plan this in advance and give the concrete something to grab on the inside walls by weld some old screws with the heads up. This will stiff the frame extremely well. Never late, you can thing about...
Can wait to see you using it.
PS:
Fill with concrete the wheel will not "sing on you" too much when you work on it. Like this hollow it will make quite a noise I believe.
Can't wait to get some work done with the wheel. Coming soon enough.
Cool intro, looking good 👍
Cheers - it was time to put a new intro into the set.
@@ThrottleStopGarage pretty fancy, what do you use to edit video and do stuff like the intro?
very professional job i just subbed thanks for the videos
Thanks for the sub!
Beautiful machine and yes you should be doing this. As far as measuring stiffness, I would say you are over thinking it. I just threw together a small bench top machine and it works really well, I don’t know, maybe I just lucked out. Thanks for sharing the build, I still want to build a bigger one so I appreciate your insight.
Overthinking is a real habit for me. I was so happy when I could feel the subtle tracks and could feel them disappearing! That was pretty cool to me. You read about this stuff and watch all the videos but until you feel it...I can see how it could become addictive.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I find wheeling to be very therapeutic, I have a chunk of metal that I just work on randomly for that purpose.
Well done Craig! I bought one of those little bench top wheels a few months ago and it was very funny watching you catch on to the pattern of wheeling... I remember very well how counter intuitive it was the first time I ran a piece of sheet metal through there. I made my first patch panel for the Karmann Ghia and it went surprisingly well. That said, I've got "english wheel envy" now watching how easily your machine works the sheet metal.
Cool - I think you've mentioned it before. It really was cool to run that first test piece and have a bit of fun working out what the heck you have to do to track. Hats off to those that make this look easy!
Nice work.
Thanks!
Excellent work as always Craig.
Glad you enjoyed it...fun project as promised.
Awesome work. So few understand the time involved. Great video. Thanks for the effort I love your videos.
Much appreciated! I'm glad you're enjoying the adventure.
metallic blue or dark pearl blue painting with pearls com i mixed that in clear and played a bit nice stuff
Having issues getting powder - but you're on the right track.
Great work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Awesome! Thank you!
@@ThrottleStopGarage You're welcome! You can always email me at "jon" at our url, and I'll set you up with a free membership (usually $39/year) and you can post your videos on our forum whenever you want. Looks like you're one of us :)
Great job and beautiful. Thanks
Thank you! Cheers!
Stunning work as always. High quality leaving your personal signature.
Would possibly add location for your different wheels on the frame so it’s always together.
I'm thinking I'll make some wooden boxes to store the wheels and just store them on a shelf. Safe and out of the dirt/dust and moisture.
Nice work! The only way to make it stiffer would be to fill it cement.
Thanks - trying to keep it so I can move the thing without a crane.
Interesting video. I’m sure you watch Karl Fisher. I love the precision you make stuff with. It’s all about the attempt at being as accurate as you can. It will come out better in the end. One thing this reminds me of is the OCP logo from Robocop. Good job and can’t wait to see more on the Amazon car.
Thanks - getting back on the car this week. I've got a subframe to rebuild!
I still think it should be British racing green, and then maybe some old English white details 🤔😃👌🏼
I'm having trouble finding a local powder coater who is decent...let alone the colour choice.
@@ThrottleStopGarage oh that's a shame 😒 I hope you finde one soon 🙏🏼
21:25 Feels good!
Yup
Beautiful work, as always! Thank you for putting in the effort!
If I may be so bold as to suggest a fresh blue colour?
I'm dreading the day you finish your Volvo..
Fresh blue would be cool...I do have a "blue" car fetish - all 4 of my cars are blue. And never fear - I've got a couple more cars in the wings waiting for some care and attention.
Loved the updates on instagram and glad to see the new video drop! I wonder if you could use one of those bench top thickness sanders to clear off mill scale from stock?
I'm not sure - I find that any abrasive gets clogged by the stuff. The purple pads are the best because they really are non-clogging. The flat bar was the worst - it was crazy thick.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Good point
I think light green german machine colour will fit nicely. Powder coat is not necessary, you can use chassis enamel for reasonable robust coat without troubles of heating whole thing.
True - I've thought about just painting it. I just don't have the space right now and would like the durability of the powder. I hope the heat doesn't move things much.
@@ThrottleStopGarage powder good for abrasion but it is pretty brittle. When you will be using wheel, frame going to bend a little, it can develop cracks in powder over time.
I know it's unusual but maybe pay a painter to paint frame.
Nice job and super helpful that you measured the flex. I'm about to build one using heavy structural beams because I got some pieces cheap, but have been wondering about the flex, lots, none, good or bad ? Mine will be a beast in comparison. Have you used it much yet, and what is your opinion on the amount of flex since using it ? I'd appreciate any input from anyone experienced enough on the english wheel to give an opinion with some figures so the comparison is measurable ? I can easily see that twist should be as close to zero as possible.
I've not used it in anger just yet. I'm trapped in the spiral of details on the build right now and I'm making stainless steel trim. Over the next 6 months, it will start to get some use. I'm a complete novice, but I can say that working the little bit of metal with the wheel that I have - it moves metal very quickly. I think a little flex is desirable and I've seen people make great looking panels from the cheap wheels. The more flex in the machine, the less consistent it would be. I also think it's easier to learn on a machine that does what it's suppose to do.
@@ThrottleStopGarage The million dollar question .. What's it supposed to do ? Importing a good machine down here isn't going to happen, it'd be cheaper to pay someone to build the body for me. I'm like you, I have to build it with no wheeling experience in order to gain some wheeling experience ... so every detail you find will be super helpful. I'm finding those with experience don't say much, and those with lots to say don't have much experience ? Seems to be that old debate of engineer vs. artist ?
@Funkiwi Kid build it as stiff as you can. I did buy anvils with flats and I'll post more content on doing this when I have some experience. I went through the same issue you're finding...that's why I made this video.
I found another series that I'm guessing will interest you as much as it did me. This guy has his own technique but check out his wheel and how little it flexes, the wheels never touch. I'd guess there's a good reason the originals were made from cast which will usually have a lot less flex than steel.
ruclips.net/video/KD7eAwO-BGQ/видео.html And this one on the shape of the wheels ruclips.net/video/MbFa7KyZ_pA/видео.html
When you say "A light Green Color"???? are we talking that minty-green color that a lot of Lathes and mills were painted in the 50's and 60's? Yuck! LOL - in my shop, everything thats a cabinet or metal storage locker gets painted cherry red, machine tools and machinist tools are all Oliver Tractor green, and Bench vices no matter how big or small they all get done in Hammered Light blue/silver color? IDK why, that how it is, I guess I could change but why? Hahaha - no matter what color you go with I'm sure it'll be SUPER NICE- well done young man!
No, more of an olive green. I also found a blue that's close to the car's eventual colour. What I can't find is someone local to do the work. I may have to road trip it or paint it myself.
It is not so necessary to have perfect angels it work real well with little fault on the angel
Sometimes is good ide to put under something one side for make it easier to reach one special place on the sheet metal
I made English Wheel for many yeas ago and it was little of angel but worked real well only time there was problem was when had flat under wheel
a use full tips is have 2 flat under wheels with some space apart and roll a square tub in it or some other profile in it
Interesting. I've seen people shim the anvil to do as your suggesting. It will be fun to learn.
Craig: Have you sèen Dominic Chinea's English Wheel series on RUclips? Very interesting.
Absolutely - brilliant journey.
English wheel, would British Racing Green be inappropriate?
Nope - it's in the running.
Hoosier is now by request
Glad to hear this.
It's to bad you live in a remote area that probably doesn't offer cryogenic services. If it were my frame and wanted to get the welding stress out of it I would have it froze. I have parts frozen all the time at Circle City Cryo. It really does work very well on weldments and castings.
How cold does it need to get? Liquid nitrogen?
@@ThrottleStopGarage canadian midsummer temperatures 🤣
How to build a Mona Lisa of English Wheels.
Thanks!
Amazing work. With mill scale and pieces small enough I just soak them in vinegar for a day. But might not work 100% if you're trying to create content.
I've done that lots. Mostly it's fine - but for larger pieces it's a pain because I don't have the space to get it out of my way.
do you find your portaband breaks blades? I feel like i have to be super gentle with mine or else the blades get too hot and snap. Even cutting things like plastic have caused me problems. I slowed it way down and take my time and they last a while. Still no where near wearing out a blade though. Always break before that. Pretty sure i have the same milwaukee saw.
lots great either way! i hate picking colours. too indecisive.
It sure used to Greg. Like you - I have to be very careful and I use Lennox blades and have had good luck with them. I also had a few Bosch blades with lower TPI for thicker material that were fine. Most of the rest were garbage. I use a pretty coarse blade (10-14 TPI) as it's the best fit for the general cutting that I do. I hate cut-off wheels...so most of the cutting is handled by the portaband. I try to blow it out periodically to keep the metal swarf off the wheels and out of the bearing guides. I've had to replace the bottom blade guide once when it locked up.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I was mostly using 24tpi as I was doing a lot of tubing and that sort of thing. Good blades didn't seem to help but I haven't tried Lennox. Used Morse, Milwaukee, and the Fastenal house brand rockriver or something. I think I just have to chill out more with my cutting and maybe make the course blades my regular.
@@gregpetroski6333 My guess is more TPI - three teeth in the work is what is suggested. I've had better luck with coarser blades on the portaband.
At 14:00 what's all that noise? HF start on constant?
Arc length Joel. With the mic around a foot from the weld (I really should do a video that shows why I don't do a lot of arc shots with my equipment...) you can really hear it. When I was arc welding full time, you could hear the good welders because they make less noise. Even in this video, I can see when I'm really close with the tungsten and when I'm not - I also vary the height as I weld so I don't dip the rod in the tungsten. Having the magnifier means I don't make that mistake as often - but I can hear the change in tone as I pull up a fraction.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I must be 3/4 deaf lol, your mic puts my ears to shame. I'm sure you've said it and I missed it, what machine are you running?
You talk so much about measuring deflection of the beam. What difference does it make as long as you don't exceed the elastic limit of the material, which I have never heard anyone say they did. The deflection is holding the pressure on the wheel.
I have no way of knowing what is right Tom - I could find nothing that said X is the amount of deflection you need. Having consistent contact pressure is (guessing) important and seems to be the difference between cheap and expensive machines.
Awhile man, sorry your initial design was to the standard you wanted.. but looks about beautiful and your test looks amazing!!
Thanks - my real hope is that someone will measure these things. I was following what I saw other people do for the basic design. I was really surprised with how easily it moved. Then when I found that there isn't much real information on how stiff is stiff or even what would be recommended, it gave me the push I needed to measure and see. I'm very happy now and can't wait to try to make real panels.
Paint it Hot Pink, then tag Keith Rucker :)
Trolling Keith...not advisable.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I don't think he'd see it as "trolling". He's received a few suggestions to paint various machines pink over the years. By way of response he produced a can of 'Manly Pink' to paint an item with - after removal of the Hot Pink cap, the can of course turned out to contain some classic machine grey. So I think Keith would probably LOL.
Your video got copyrighted man
Please use non copyrighted music so that you can have your adsense
What are you talking about? There are zero issues with this video.
I can see in your description that your video got copyrighted. So if there is no issues i apologize
@@ikmalsomadani9970 No problem - the music is from the YT collection and they're providing proper attribution to the artists. Anyway - thanks for the notice - there are no problems.
Please dont powder coat this. Brushed nickel would be my choice.
That would have looked cool. Oh well, powder coat was the choice.