*I really like the content* ... ... ... ... but that puppet ... it is getting on my nerves with its hushed voice, acting all cutesy. This is not meant as a personal attack but an explanation why i am unable to sit through the whole video. I _personally_ think that this channel could do well without that "thing". In the end this is just my personal view and people are different, so i can understand that there are people who may like that kind of stuff. The acting, puppet handling and script are well done while the puppet itself is not well suited for video in general, in my opinion. It's all black color makes the features hard to distinguish. That may be one of the reasons, that i dislike its appearance since i cannot really see much detail on it. The hushed voice might be another sore spot for me as i really dislike people speaking that way. If i compare this puppet to the Techmoan puppets, there is a clear difference in the way they appear. This puppet looks like it is meant for children while featuring an adult theme like that earring and is explaining very detailed technical processes. It acts like a Teacher. The Techmoan puppets are clearly caricatures that are used to lighten the mood and are acting in a puppet-y way with overacting and big gestures to make the punchline hit harder.
I am trying to get a bit of variety in the music... but it's hard to find tracks in a similar style that are still different and long enough to carry... some people like other music, some hate it... it's wrong either way 😊
I had a look at Mouser's. They have in stock axial 10V/1µF ones from Vishay/Sprague for around 1EUR per piece when you order 10 of them. Part number: 173D105X0010UE3
We've come such a long way in terms of efficient engineering and easy of assembly. I know there's a lot of "everything was better back then" sentiment going on with people who worked with these devices back then, but especially the Tektronix 576 really shows how unwieldy complex integration can become. Nowadays it's a touchscreen, a few encoders, a micro and maybe an FPGA.
While I agree that the complexity of the hardware got quite reduced, at the same time the possibility to service one of these things has gone down almost equally. I mean, there's almost nothing left to be serviced in the first place. Throw away and hope the manufacturer still has a suitable model for a replacement. That's the part that I really miss, despite being a bit nostalgic of course 😅
@@atkelar I don't agree with that sentiment. Plenty of stuff to replace in newer equipment. I had that discussion a while ago, someone complained about modern washing machines containing too much electronic, and that supposedly makes them unrepairable. Which simply isn't true. Most of the time it's not the electronics that fail, but the sensors and motors and stuff. And if it fails, it isn't particularly different to repair compared to one from 20 years ago, unless you're afraid of SMD. And if you go back 40 years, then good luck repairing an electromechanical program switcher, which back then was the brains of the operation.
That's a great restoration, and this analyzer is a bit of an obscure object that fully deserved it! The only thing I'd object is replacing the old wet-tantalum type caps with the newer droplets, despite the age wet tantalum are some of the most reliable caps in existence.
Thanks! As for the caps: I may be a bit too careful there, but I've had some of the older caps go pop on me before, so anything electrolytic that is pre-1990s is usually "upgraded"; especially if it's not something frequency related. i.e. I try to keep as much of a RF or AF section intact as possible, but any DC supply side caps, I try to replace with modern decent equivalents. Unless it's 30+ USD for one, then close enough is good for me.
There is much to be learnt repairing well documented quality vintage test equipment. I fear current technologies trade analogue design for digital/software alternatives and become proprietary unfathomable black box items whose attempted repair or restoration will not inspire future generations to get into the industry.
Indeed; I think we see about the same thing with "AI" in software now. Fewer and fewer people bother with solid basics about programming and make more and more things "with AI". But people keep forgetting that deep down inside, everything is electrons and resistors, or some low level math to some degree. Finding issues is going to get harder with every new layer.
Nice work. You restore everything, even the switches. Glad to see I am not the only one who uses a torch on heat shrink😁. I do use might heat gun as well.
I always aim for Sunday, 1900 European time; that seems to be the one with the highest turnout, at least within my possibilities. But no worries, if you can make it it's fine, if not, it's fine too! Thanks for watching!
At some point I had my hands on an HP-1743A with option 101, which replaced the A/B mode with STATE DISP, to display the output from this logic analyzer - it even came with a bracket to mount them together. Super cool to see a name I recognize show up here!
Interesting fact about the option; according to the manua, the "1700 series" was the preferred scope to go with it. A distinct option is still a novelty. Kind of a very early "mixed signal" solution when you think about it...
Great work as always. Some DIP clips on AliExpress, but probably of dubious quality. Or, something knocked up on a 3D printer with pins extracted from 35mm header strips (sounds easy in my head).
I actually made myself a 3D printable design some time ago; the problem is more of a precision thing: 3D prints tend to be ever so slightly warped and/or have edges that need sanding and that with the usual pin spacing is a bit extreme. I got a 40 pin version (Z80 or similar) but still haven't figured out a good way to actually connect the pins. I found something on e-bay... let's see how that turns out, if/when it arrives :)
DIP test clamps are unobatanium. The only ones I found are SMD DIPs used to test car chips. I never found those except once I found an old kit with several on eBay for a very high amount about US$400.
I did find a few used ones on e-bay... let's see how that turns out; But even then, a singe one is about 10$ minimum give or take. Still, much better than 40+
I wonder if there's too much power being dissipated by that LED. It's common to see shift towards red when that happens due to heating. It _looks_ like it resolved after the 5V adjustment as well. I usually go with Pomona for test clips like that, but while they are less expensive they're still ~£20 each. Gorgeous work as always!
I'm sure it was an oddball LED... I found it in my random selection and picked it because it was nice orange on the outside. But when lit, it looked indistinguishable from the red ones. The resistor was calculated for about 10mA, so I don't think too much power was an issue... oh, and the final beauty shots... I did replace it eventually, but a bit after the voiceover was done 😜
@@atkelar Ah, that's why it looks better! Red LEDs with colored lenses is a thing that happens sometimes, though I haven't seen it in ages. The oddest one I ever saw mention of was a red die in a green package!
@@atkelar Oh! I just had the brilliant idea to actually look at the datasheets for AlInGaP amber LEDs, and not only is 10mA fine but they don't shift much at all with die temp. You definitely found an oddball one!
Still disagree with replacing those old axial tants with the 'New' ones. But that is just me ;) BTW, Thanks for the explanation of the crowbar circuit that will come in handy in some of my later projects ;)
Well, it's not "just" you 😅 but still, I stand by it not being a big issue. While I try to keep the devices as original as possible, I am not doing museum style restorations. So slight improvements or upgrades when needed (like transformers rewinding to 240V, LED power indicator instead of bulbs,...) are IMHO fine. I tend to think of it like "If the original manufacuturer wanted to keep it current, what would they ave done?" kind of thing.
Oh, about the "crowbar" circuit: I learned the name of it from a CuriousMarc video; The concept is quiteold anappears in a few devices when voltage rgulators weren't all that trusted yet... or external supplies are an option.
I'm sure there are some differences; but in this circuit, they all are used for voltage stabilization, so the minute difference shouldn't matter too much, I think.
I am continuosly uneasy about the wholesale recapping tendency. Many people seem to replace the military ans space qualified wet slug tantalums along with all others. Even you stated them to be excessively expensive. Yes, they are, but the is a reason, as a Vishay app note tells, their hermetic construction provides essentially infinite life time. You can notice the heavy weight due to the tantalum housing, as well as the glass frit seal on the positive end. The positive end cap is typically welded to the cylindrical can. Replacing one of these wet slug tantalums with a solid tantalum, or worse yet, with an unsealed aluminum capacitor is counterproductive in most cases! In fact, the epoxy dipped solid tantalum capacitors have somewhat deserved reputation of failing catastrophically, and they should be derated generously, relative to their rated voltage, as well and especially, to their ripple current handling.
I am usually on the fence when it comes to tantalums. With some devices I do, with some I don't. Can't say I have had any negative experiences so far with the new dipped ones... other than having one of them upside down and go "pop" of course.
Can we appreciate how cute the puppet is
*I really like the content*
...
...
...
... but that puppet ... it is getting on my nerves with its hushed voice, acting all cutesy. This is not meant as a personal attack but an explanation why i am unable to sit through the whole video. I _personally_ think that this channel could do well without that "thing". In the end this is just my personal view and people are different, so i can understand that there are people who may like that kind of stuff. The acting, puppet handling and script are well done while the puppet itself is not well suited for video in general, in my opinion. It's all black color makes the features hard to distinguish. That may be one of the reasons, that i dislike its appearance since i cannot really see much detail on it. The hushed voice might be another sore spot for me as i really dislike people speaking that way. If i compare this puppet to the Techmoan puppets, there is a clear difference in the way they appear. This puppet looks like it is meant for children while featuring an adult theme like that earring and is explaining very detailed technical processes. It acts like a Teacher. The Techmoan puppets are clearly caricatures that are used to lighten the mood and are acting in a puppet-y way with overacting and big gestures to make the punchline hit harder.
I agree. The puppet is very cute - and it brings a fun lighthearted feel to the channel.
Along with the superb obsessive and OCD quality of the work, I am now addicted to the Unicorn Heads
I am trying to get a bit of variety in the music... but it's hard to find tracks in a similar style that are still different and long enough to carry... some people like other music, some hate it... it's wrong either way 😊
I love the puppet😊
The music made me think of Another Brick in the Wall.
The most comprehensive or cleanups and restorations!
That second son was really kickin!
Yes indeed! Atkelar, what's the name of the song at ~8:00?
I updated the description; copied the wrong credits list... it's "Lonely Troutman II - William Rosati"
So when Atkelar said that the axial tantalum capacitors were prohibitively expensive, I had a look. $140 for 10v 1uf. Yeah, that's expensive!
I had a look at Mouser's. They have in stock axial 10V/1µF ones from Vishay/Sprague for around 1EUR per piece when you order 10 of them.
Part number: 173D105X0010UE3
I knew from another channel's project. He had to get 10 of them because of the form factor... big F for that wallet.
We've come such a long way in terms of efficient engineering and easy of assembly. I know there's a lot of "everything was better back then" sentiment going on with people who worked with these devices back then, but especially the Tektronix 576 really shows how unwieldy complex integration can become.
Nowadays it's a touchscreen, a few encoders, a micro and maybe an FPGA.
While I agree that the complexity of the hardware got quite reduced, at the same time the possibility to service one of these things has gone down almost equally. I mean, there's almost nothing left to be serviced in the first place. Throw away and hope the manufacturer still has a suitable model for a replacement. That's the part that I really miss, despite being a bit nostalgic of course 😅
@@atkelar I don't agree with that sentiment. Plenty of stuff to replace in newer equipment.
I had that discussion a while ago, someone complained about modern washing machines containing too much electronic, and that supposedly makes them unrepairable. Which simply isn't true. Most of the time it's not the electronics that fail, but the sensors and motors and stuff. And if it fails, it isn't particularly different to repair compared to one from 20 years ago, unless you're afraid of SMD.
And if you go back 40 years, then good luck repairing an electromechanical program switcher, which back then was the brains of the operation.
That's a great restoration, and this analyzer is a bit of an obscure object that fully deserved it!
The only thing I'd object is replacing the old wet-tantalum type caps with the newer droplets, despite the age wet tantalum are some of the most reliable caps in existence.
Thanks! As for the caps: I may be a bit too careful there, but I've had some of the older caps go pop on me before, so anything electrolytic that is pre-1990s is usually "upgraded"; especially if it's not something frequency related. i.e. I try to keep as much of a RF or AF section intact as possible, but any DC supply side caps, I try to replace with modern decent equivalents. Unless it's 30+ USD for one, then close enough is good for me.
Great, especially the attention to all details.
There is much to be learnt repairing well documented quality vintage test equipment. I fear current technologies trade analogue design for digital/software alternatives and become proprietary unfathomable black box items whose attempted repair or restoration will not inspire future generations to get into the industry.
Indeed; I think we see about the same thing with "AI" in software now. Fewer and fewer people bother with solid basics about programming and make more and more things "with AI". But people keep forgetting that deep down inside, everything is electrons and resistors, or some low level math to some degree. Finding issues is going to get harder with every new layer.
Nice work. You restore everything, even the switches. Glad to see I am not the only one who uses a torch on heat shrink😁. I do use might heat gun as well.
Great work as usual, sorry I missed the live stream!
I always aim for Sunday, 1900 European time; that seems to be the one with the highest turnout, at least within my possibilities. But no worries, if you can make it it's fine, if not, it's fine too! Thanks for watching!
@@atkelarNever seen any announcements for streams?
At some point I had my hands on an HP-1743A with option 101, which replaced the A/B mode with STATE DISP, to display the output from this logic analyzer - it even came with a bracket to mount them together. Super cool to see a name I recognize show up here!
Interesting fact about the option; according to the manua, the "1700 series" was the preferred scope to go with it. A distinct option is still a novelty. Kind of a very early "mixed signal" solution when you think about it...
Great work as always. Some DIP clips on AliExpress, but probably of dubious quality. Or, something knocked up on a 3D printer with pins extracted from 35mm header strips (sounds easy in my head).
I actually made myself a 3D printable design some time ago; the problem is more of a precision thing: 3D prints tend to be ever so slightly warped and/or have edges that need sanding and that with the usual pin spacing is a bit extreme. I got a 40 pin version (Z80 or similar) but still haven't figured out a good way to actually connect the pins. I found something on e-bay... let's see how that turns out, if/when it arrives :)
Oh! It's a complet refurbish
Great video. But that's no surprise. Definitely enjoyed this project!
Warwick Test Supplies is significantly less expensive for DIL clamps, about half that for gold plate and others for even less.
DIP test clamps are unobatanium. The only ones I found are SMD DIPs used to test car chips. I never found those except once I found an old kit with several on eBay for a very high amount about US$400.
I did find a few used ones on e-bay... let's see how that turns out; But even then, a singe one is about 10$ minimum give or take. Still, much better than 40+
How very informative and interesting. 😸
Great work as usual. Regarding the DIP clips - I have the same problem. Couldn't source any for a reasonable prize...
I wonder if there's too much power being dissipated by that LED. It's common to see shift towards red when that happens due to heating. It _looks_ like it resolved after the 5V adjustment as well.
I usually go with Pomona for test clips like that, but while they are less expensive they're still ~£20 each.
Gorgeous work as always!
I'm sure it was an oddball LED... I found it in my random selection and picked it because it was nice orange on the outside. But when lit, it looked indistinguishable from the red ones. The resistor was calculated for about 10mA, so I don't think too much power was an issue... oh, and the final beauty shots... I did replace it eventually, but a bit after the voiceover was done 😜
@@atkelar Ah, that's why it looks better! Red LEDs with colored lenses is a thing that happens sometimes, though I haven't seen it in ages. The oddest one I ever saw mention of was a red die in a green package!
@@atkelar Oh! I just had the brilliant idea to actually look at the datasheets for AlInGaP amber LEDs, and not only is 10mA fine but they don't shift much at all with die temp. You definitely found an oddball one!
Great, thx!
Still disagree with replacing those old axial tants with the 'New' ones. But that is just me ;)
BTW, Thanks for the explanation of the crowbar circuit that will come in handy in some of my later projects ;)
Well, it's not "just" you 😅 but still, I stand by it not being a big issue. While I try to keep the devices as original as possible, I am not doing museum style restorations. So slight improvements or upgrades when needed (like transformers rewinding to 240V, LED power indicator instead of bulbs,...) are IMHO fine. I tend to think of it like "If the original manufacuturer wanted to keep it current, what would they ave done?" kind of thing.
Oh, about the "crowbar" circuit: I learned the name of it from a CuriousMarc video; The concept is quiteold anappears in a few devices when voltage rgulators weren't all that trusted yet... or external supplies are an option.
ilmango's intro music caught me off guard lol
That's the downside of the audio library :)
@@atkelar I'm not complaining though, it's a banger :3
wet tantalum caps are not the same as simple tantalum ones.
I'm sure there are some differences; but in this circuit, they all are used for voltage stabilization, so the minute difference shouldn't matter too much, I think.
:o)❤
I am continuosly uneasy about the wholesale recapping tendency. Many people seem to replace the military ans space qualified wet slug tantalums along with all others. Even you stated them to be excessively expensive. Yes, they are, but the is a reason, as a Vishay app note tells, their hermetic construction provides essentially infinite life time. You can notice the heavy weight due to the tantalum housing, as well as the glass frit seal on the positive end. The positive end cap is typically welded to the cylindrical can. Replacing one of these wet slug tantalums with a solid tantalum, or worse yet, with an unsealed aluminum capacitor is counterproductive in most cases! In fact, the epoxy dipped solid tantalum capacitors have somewhat deserved reputation of failing catastrophically, and they should be derated generously, relative to their rated voltage, as well and especially, to their ripple current handling.
I am usually on the fence when it comes to tantalums. With some devices I do, with some I don't. Can't say I have had any negative experiences so far with the new dipped ones... other than having one of them upside down and go "pop" of course.
Is the puppet ESD safe?
Only when wearing an ESD band :)
Nice video as usual, but the new music is hard to listen to.