My JQ400 was surging and turning off after about 2 hours on the machine. I knew it was a fuel issue. I did minimal research and got a clear fuel filter from Oreallys for $9. It fixed it immediately. Maybe ill save someone some time and money with this comment.
Same thing. Thanks for note on Fuel filter and fuel pump. Our choke cable got stuck. We have to manually open the hood and reach in and shove it back into place. More importantly the drive wheel on left and right side started jamming up against the Undercarriage. So we had to plasma cut the clearance hole bigger. The cogs on the drive wheel would literally rub the undercarriage in front of it. In forward they rubbed, in reverse they jammed completely. So we plasma cut a bigger hole. Why the undercarriage can move like that is disappointing why they chose to die on the cross and make the rough components so close together in a way that did not need to happen is beyond me. While it does move and go, it is a bit rough driving and the standing on it is not like a kubota for sure. Handy machine for 3k. So while not a massive fan of them. For 3k if you are mechanically inclined and can risk the maintenance it is a back saver potential. As for parts, most are off the shelf hydraulic components. The belts….not sure. Nothing here is really proprietary. What is odd. They made a “decent” machine. With a little effort they can make an exceptional one and it is mind boggling why they don’t.
I had to clean the carb twice. My Locking fuel cap is vented so that wasn’t a problem for me. I had water in my fuel tank. Drain it and refueled and added a little “HEET” to dry up the remaining water. Put a different fuel filter on. It seemed that water was getting into the tank at the filler neck which was not welded completely around that joint. I cleaned up that joint / seam and applied a bead of STEEL STICK.
Another great video. I'll be switching my hoses. Your throttle looks like it moves easily. Mine has about a 2+ ft cable, snaking all over and doesn't move easily. I'll probably shorten it. My user manual shows a filter in the bottom of the hydraulic tank. It also shows a drain plug on the bottom of the tank. Check under your machine for access.
@ecooutdoors I have the pamphlet, more or less that came with mine. Service intervals, some drawings and capacities/specs. I took pictures and put it in one of my videos, but it is minimal. Are you looking for anything specific or just more info overall?
@@ecooutdoors It should either have the manual set up or grease tensioner. Manual has a lock not to loosen and then a tensioner bolt that pushes the assembly fwd. If it's a greasable one, you should see it take up slack as you pump grease in. I've heard some fail and don't hold pressure. You should either have an open window or a small cover plate to remove on the side of the tracks, although I have seen some where you have to remove the entire side panel. No access port.
oil capacity and viscosty? hydro oil specs? and manufacture website? i have one and its been great so far but im looking to update all fluids. i'd greatly appreciate some input! great channel.
The rato R740 engine holds roughly 1.6L of oil. A decent quality 10w-30 will do fine. Hydraulic oil tank holds roughly 25 - 30L. AW46 is recommended. I will make a video on it in the future.
@@SJWEQUIPMENTmuch appreciated! I just noticed my right track tooth is doing the drag on the box like I’ve been seeing I have slack on that side so I’m going to jump into some how to’s.. on repairing that as well. If I recall you may have it in a video but I need to get that figured out before I start throwing tracks off. Other than that the machine has been freaking amazing.
First thing I'd have to do is start swaping hydraulic lines so the drive controls are on one handle and loader controls on the other. Having them combined like that has got to be goofy to try to operate
They are all hard lines. And not the correct valves for that. You can’t drive both sides by pushing one lever forward. It only opens one port. You’d have to have your lever pushed forward at a 45° angle from straight ahead to allow flow through both ports at once. Which would be terribly slow because each valve body is being fed by its own pump. So now you’re dividing the flow of one pump to drive to motors instead of 2 pumps, each driving a drive motor. It’s just H pattern. The same way many many skid steers have been built for decades.
I figured it out. You have to get the track off the ground, remove the grease fitting on the tensioner, put the track in place, replace the grease fitting, pump it full of grease and your set.
My JQ400 was surging and turning off after about 2 hours on the machine. I knew it was a fuel issue. I did minimal research and got a clear fuel filter from Oreallys for $9. It fixed it immediately. Maybe ill save someone some time and money with this comment.
Having same issue man mine has 2 hrs and started doing the same thing I put special gas and nothing.
Really nice video! Can you also create a video showing the process of changing Engine oil and Hydraulic Oil on this one. Thank you so much!
Just FYI if yours is like mine the drain for the hydraulic tank is on the right front under the machine.
I see something on the bottom right. Do you have to lift the machine too get to it?
@@usmcmohammad you don't have to. But I did so my drain pan would fit.
Same thing. Thanks for note on Fuel filter and fuel pump. Our choke cable got stuck. We have to manually open the hood and reach in and shove it back into place. More importantly the drive wheel on left and right side started jamming up against the Undercarriage. So we had to plasma cut the clearance hole bigger. The cogs on the drive wheel would literally rub the undercarriage in front of it. In forward they rubbed, in reverse they jammed completely. So we plasma cut a bigger hole. Why the undercarriage can move like that is disappointing why they chose to die on the cross and make the rough components so close together in a way that did not need to happen is beyond me. While it does move and go, it is a bit rough driving and the standing on it is not like a kubota for sure. Handy machine for 3k. So while not a massive fan of them. For 3k if you are mechanically inclined and can risk the maintenance it is a back saver potential. As for parts, most are off the shelf hydraulic components. The belts….not sure. Nothing here is really proprietary. What is odd. They made a “decent” machine. With a little effort they can make an exceptional one and it is mind boggling why they don’t.
Do you know what size replacement tracks fit?
I had to clean the carb twice. My
Locking fuel cap is vented so that wasn’t a problem for me. I had water in my fuel tank. Drain it and refueled and added a little “HEET” to dry up the remaining water. Put a different fuel filter on. It seemed that water was getting into the tank at the filler neck which was not welded completely around that joint. I cleaned up that joint / seam and applied a bead of STEEL STICK.
Another great video. I'll be switching my hoses. Your throttle looks like it moves easily. Mine has about a 2+ ft cable, snaking all over and doesn't move easily. I'll probably shorten it. My user manual shows a filter in the bottom of the hydraulic tank. It also shows a drain plug on the bottom of the tank. Check under your machine for access.
Can you link us a use Manual? Only thing I’ve done is look st the agt manual
@ecooutdoors I have the pamphlet, more or less that came with mine. Service intervals, some drawings and capacities/specs. I took pictures and put it in one of my videos, but it is minimal. Are you looking for anything specific or just more info overall?
@@mikedesilets3324 thank you looking to do some track tensioning adjustments
@@mikedesilets3324 my left track has a ton of slack in it and I’d like to see if there is a way for me to adjust a tensioner
@@ecooutdoors It should either have the manual set up or grease tensioner. Manual has a lock not to loosen and then a tensioner bolt that pushes the assembly fwd. If it's a greasable one, you should see it take up slack as you pump grease in. I've heard some fail and don't hold pressure. You should either have an open window or a small cover plate to remove on the side of the tracks, although I have seen some where you have to remove the entire side panel. No access port.
@1:43 you took the what off??
oil capacity and viscosty? hydro oil specs? and manufacture website? i have one and its been great so far but im looking to update all fluids. i'd greatly appreciate some input! great channel.
The rato R740 engine holds roughly 1.6L of oil. A decent quality 10w-30 will do fine. Hydraulic oil tank holds roughly 25 - 30L. AW46 is recommended. I will make a video on it in the future.
@@SJWEQUIPMENTmuch appreciated! I just noticed my right track tooth is doing the drag on the box like I’ve been seeing I have slack on that side so I’m going to jump into some how to’s.. on repairing that as well. If I recall you may have it in a video but I need to get that figured out before I start throwing tracks off. Other than that the machine has been freaking amazing.
Can you give me a link to obtain a owners/maintenance manual for this skid steer?
Looking for one also. Can't find anything anywhere
Me too
First thing I'd have to do is start swaping hydraulic lines so the drive controls are on one handle and loader controls on the other. Having them combined like that has got to be goofy to try to operate
They are all hard lines. And not the correct valves for that. You can’t drive both sides by pushing one lever forward. It only opens one port. You’d have to have your lever pushed forward at a 45° angle from straight ahead to allow flow through both ports at once. Which would be terribly slow because each valve body is being fed by its own pump. So now you’re dividing the flow of one pump to drive to motors instead of 2 pumps, each driving a drive motor.
It’s just H pattern. The same way many many skid steers have been built for decades.
I thought about this bro having hard time with the original configuration
Oh it has h pattern or case controls
I have an lrt23 for sale. Has 5.6 hours on it. Got it in a settlement. Has a smooth bucket. Near Charlotte nc. Its ready to work.
Still for sale?
WHat size were the bolts on the drive motor you needed to tighten up?
WHERE CAN i BUY ATTACHMENTS?
How wide is this machine? Wanting to get one for tree work, thanks!
43.5" +/- 0.5"
What area are you in. And do you sale the pallet fork set ups for these units ?
Im in Canada, around Edmonton. Occasionally have attachments for sale
Where do you buy parts for these machines
Amazon
Do these have a 2 or 3 pump hydraulic system?
@ pump, the AGT CRT have 3, but a stupid 4 lever control system
What is length
Good way to get the tracks back on?
I'm also looking for tips to put the tracks back on.
I figured it out. You have to get the track off the ground, remove the grease fitting on the tensioner, put the track in place, replace the grease fitting, pump it full of grease and your set.
We’re do you fill the oil at?
On the right hand side valve cover there’s a yellow oil cap you unscrew.
@@SJWEQUIPMENT on mine it had a tag that said no oil were the valve cover is so it’s very confusing to me
which engine do you have?
Does it come with all fluids inside?
I just got one. Hydraulic oil was very low, and oil was ok.
@@fredcory2686any idea where to get a fluid capacity chart?
Where can i get forks to fit the JQ 400?
Bought mine at auction. Wolverine brand. Look a little grinding to make them fit proper. Look up Wolverine attachments website
Antonietta Turnpike
Alessia Knoll
Lenny Junction
7:45, you have a crack in your mount!
So it’s a POS
Its no bobcat or kubota thats for sure. But ive paid as little as $3500 all in for a mini skid and they have done alot of work at that price.
how to contact you