That is a great explanation of the impact of positive crankcase ventilation system. I would never have related transmission clutch pack failure to dirty MAF sensor. The importance of regular maintenance ...
Damn, how did I not find this channel way earlier than now... how many times I searched issues with the 2.7t... never saw any of your vids. No idea why you popped up right away.... very informative and this is the only vid of watched so far. It was from a while ago, but someone’s always going to need help!! Thank you much my man. This is going to be super helpful. I appreciate your time and effort (almost a decade ago) so thank you.
Thank you for that, greatly appreciate the way you took the time to explain everything like if you're talking to someone right in front of you, very helpful I myself have a 2.7 L allroad. 2004, greatly appreciated once again for the explaining that you do, keep it up, very helpful to us. ... please continue explaining on subjects that are Connected to the allroad
MrRio1973 What would cause my car to have a misfire I put in brand new coils and spark plugs, I also changed the valve cover gasket, it shake a little and the engine smokes a little
Wow! Out of the weeks worth of forum searches and still being sooo un-informed, in 20min you gave me a wealth of knowledge about the 2.7T! Thank you very much! Soooo much good info! Idk shit about these cars yet but having this issue.... some sorta over pressurizing, misfire, detonating like behavior above 4k rpm after K04, clutch and gaskets install! So this should help me I hope! 🙏
Excellent video; I think, this info would apply to my 1.8T as well. At 14 years old and almost 100k; I am going through ALL of the boost related hoses and valves, parts that are boost related, on my 2002 New Beetle Turbo S with the 1.8T AWP engine. I've noticed, that allot of the valves; like the DV , N249, N75, etc, are in "soft failure" mode and while they technically "work", they are not up to correct performing levels. This is also, probably why; traditional testing methods, cannot replicate real world scenarios and how things work, in a hot engine. Each part I replaced; the boost increased and smoothed out, the boost flutter and low psi. Thanks for the video; I appreciate more in depth tech like in this video, this is the type of info and observations, that come from working on VW's all the time. Thanks again and keep up the good work! :)
I look forward to that! I'm mainly; working with Mark IV 1.8T's and helping others in support forums, figure out their drivability issues. Your experience and "putting it all together", way of explaining things is really helpful and appreciated! It kinda seems like a domino effect on these VW's; one thing in the system fails and it affects or ends up destroying, everything else! :) Thanks again and keep these in depth videos coming! :) PS: it would be cool; to hear about your new career changes, what working in a Audi dealership is like and what your outlook is on the current VAG repair industry. What you are doing now and where you would like to go, in the future! :) It is always nice; to hear about those "in the trenches" and what your perspective is on VW and all the changes that are taking place in the German Auto industry. Thanks!
+Billy P. I'm not really working. I had a son born with a birth defect who now at almost 2 years old has a colostomy bag. He's happy and healthy other than that, but can't be put into normal childcare because of it. I'm working on a website called German Auto Institute to teach these things and how to use all the info in the scan tool that backyard mechanics don't even know is there really. So that will be my job more or less. Hoping to attract some sponsors and things like that.
I'm really enjoying; the "humble mechanic" lately but many times want more technical information; there is room on youtube for your approach! Going in depth and explaining how different systems work overall and how they all related to each other, how it affects the other related systems. It sounds like; you have a wide experience working with specific models, so you can explain how things work and also, bring your experience into play. Knowing the failure modes, typical failure parts and engineering weaknesses, only seems to come with working on these cars and seeing the same problems, over, over and over again. This kind of information is needed! I hope, you can figure out a revenue stream and business plan, that can work out to support you and your family. Thanks, again! :) I look forward; to your upcoming videos!
+Billy P. Yes him and I started around the same time when I had my podcast. When my son was born I had to stop. I was watching some of his and noticed it doesn't go quite as in depth as well. I'd say there's room for both. I'm aiming more at professional mechanics or just people looking for more in depth info.
chris williams I'm actually working on an online training course program right now that will be on GermanAutoInstitute.com, I'm just working on modeling things in 3d currently so people will be able to see how the parts look.
As all the other comments this is a great explanation of a very confusing and complex system, much better than other explanations, I have made an entirely new spider assy from heat rated silicone hose and reused the factory quick connects, my particular 2.7 was the 230HP model which still had the F hose so i deleted that, I also replaced the one green check valve on top of the intake as that was damaged, still have a massive issue in that the car runs fine, but its way to rich especially at idle, so im guessing vac leak, i have replaced various oe hoses on the system that looked bad but i cannot now find another leak, its very hard to see much of the vac system on this car as its so cramped. Now I have those values you mentioned for the MAF I will at least be able to check them as I fear my MAF may now be reading incorrectly but i also fear this is still down to a leak somewhere, I even did a smoke test and found nothing. DV Valves were also replaced for good oem plastic ones already
@@adv-nomad Thanks a lot for the reply (after all these years heh). I'm really having a problem with mine, misfires, usually codes of too rich mixture, and sometimes to lean, and he is gulping gas like crazy, I think I am just pouring a liquid gasoline from the exhaust 😂
Great video ! My 03 a6 2.7T has an oil leak and its getting on the belt and going every were and it doesn't pour out but when driving it leaks a decent amount and seems to be coming from around the valve cover , has 100,800 miles
Just saved my damn life bro... my 06 allroad quattro just started having Boost problems and I know my Spider and F-hose assembly are brittle. New valves and tubes and give her a good cleaning too. TLC
Perfect timing with this ad, my 2004 Allroad went from running great to loss of power, no CEL just sluggish until I build up then runs okay, no weird sounds or smoke?
I'm pretty sure I have a boost leak. I did the spider hose from 034 motorsports. I noticed a broken vacuum hose that goes to what I believe is the vacuum reservoir. I did the DV valves (plastic). My symptoms were bad gas mileage, intermittent cylinder 4/random misfire (under load), lose of power and failed a boost leak test instantly (couldn't hold even 1psi). I'm hoping it's not valves, valve springs or head gasket. One thing you said about the built of pressure in the bottom end that hits homes with my issue... Is my oil pan gasket started pushing out, my front crank shaft gasket popped out and leaked oil, I notice oil leaking from the back on the motor (cam seals, half moon, etc.). I am guessing this is all caused by a boost/vacuum leak either that broken hose did it over time or there's a bigger leak somewhere else, or it's really really bad and something much worse. I am going to just do anything and everything you mentioned and see what happens.
so if it would be the way you say, it should run bad/wrong/rough when oil fill cap would be opened right? from what i know and checked it runs normally.
All this in the video, oil leaks at the backs of the cylinder heads, upper control arm bushings worn which you can see with a flashlight even with the car on the ground looking above the wheels up front.
Curious as to how you removed the valley pan with the coolant hard pipe installed. I tried to remove it from my BEL engine and I kept hitting the coolant hard pipe.
Hi, i have a 2011 S4 3.0TSFI with coolant leak which i suspect it is leaking through to the exhaust because it gives a steam exhaust when idling, what could be the problem? Is it a top gasket fail? Spider pipe leak? EGR fail? ... i would like some help before i take it to the specialist.
Hey man So My B5 6 speed is like jumping whenever I hit boost. Its almost like my engine is getting slammed around in the engine bay is what it feels like...its fine until i hit the boost then it studders and feels like absolute doo doo New plugs recent. No engine codes...stage 2 ECU after market diverter valves..
My 2001 S4 recently started loosing boost, also when I throttle it and go up to high rpms my boost goes down to 10 psi and the car starts "stuttering" and rpms raise very, very slow if I try to hold boost at 5psi it just drops, what could it be?
FuxEmUp I figured it out my maf was bad and my crankcase breather hose was broken. If you have an aftermarket CAI your ignition wires might be to close to the maf
Quick Question!! So my Audi A6 2.7 2001 Has been dying on me while driving every time I drive it for 1-2 hours I was told it was the battery or alternator and I replaced them both brand new so I don’t know what could be the problem, something is killing the battery
Isaac macias I have a very long in depth vehicle describing how to diagnose the alternator and charging system and identify if that's the issue. Do you have to jump start it after that it dies? If not then it's the fuel pump or crank sensor most likely.
Hey I have a a6 Quattro 2.7t that I did a f21 stage 3 tune to and ever since I did the tune it's burning super rich on idle and has rondum misfire, I checked for vacuum leaks, sparks plugs and coil but still can't find the problem. Any help will much be appreciated. Thanks.
I have a c5 2.7 that I am slowly fixing and I was driving it finally and it would accelerate very slowly and the rpms would build slowly then it would shift and would run normal until I stopped at a light again would that be a problem with a boost leak?
That'd be more of a vacuum leak than a boost leak, but it's ALLLLL part of this system yes. You really need to do it all in reality or you'll just keep having issues with breaking pipes, oil leaks, failing mass airflow sensors, the oil leaks will leak onto coolant hoses, and eat those. And like the video says, the breather system being bad will throw the maf readings off, and the shift points off for the trans. So even when you're at full throttle and the trans is under max load and it needs to have maximum transmission fluid pressure, it won't, and that'll cause transmission failure through internal slipping. So, if you want to try to find the a broken hose or a hose with a hole, get a can of brake cleaner or starting fluid, start the engine, and spray the hoses in the engine bay. Don't do the whole engine bay at once, concentrate on specific areas, and make sure you spray down at the hoses that aren't right on top. When you find the broken hose you'll hear the RPM pick up on the engine as it gets sucked into the engine and burned. Do you happen to have an OBD 2 capable scan tool, one of the ones that can read the values in the scan tool like the fuel trims, maf reading, etc?
I don't have much time to check the car now since the front tires are now flat but I did notice a hose was a little bit loose so that kind of changed how it ran at idle so hope that's it when I do get to driving it thanks
You don't really need to drive it to figure this system out. You can do what I'm saying with it sitting. And if you have an air compressor, you can do a boost pressure test on it as well. Where was the loose hose? Also, FYI, where the boost pipes come off the timing covers and go to the Y connector at the throttle body, that rubber Y at the throttle body is one of the main failure points, reach up under that pipe with your finger and feel around or use the brake clean to spray around that area. With how you're describing the super slow RPM build and stuff, you probably don't want to drive it. It's not in limp mode is it? If it is the indicator for what gear the car is in willl be ghosted and it may not tell you what gear it's in.
Im about to get my first "modern' car (because not to keen on the electronics in them) a Audi Allroad 2.7bt. I waited so long due to gain trust with new technology in them (strange I know) just like to know if possible, how is it to own for long term, any problems? computer glitches, seal problems? wanted one of these for ever, but it's full of computer power.
Those check valves need to be replaced,all of them! Take from me, my 2000 s4 automatic pop the crankshaft seal and leaked all the oil in the engine. One of the check valves got stock close and needless to say everything in front and top of the engine had to come off in order to fix the seal and the bad check valve.
wait a sec you said 2.7t doesn't have combi valves mine has 2 one on each side fucks up my access to the valve gaskets. mine is a early 2000 a6 2.7t base not allroad
Hey I have a b5 s4 and the other day I went on break at work and it ran perfectly, then I went out 5 hours later to leave work and it started misfired and died, if I drive it and get it up to temp itll run and stay running but run rough I checked the codes and I got p1128 p1130 and it had a p0305 the other night and it went from running 20psi of boost to now it wont go over 6, any ideas what it could be? Once the cars warm and running a bit better it is running perfect vacuum
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That is a great explanation of the impact of positive crankcase ventilation system. I would never have related transmission clutch pack failure to dirty MAF sensor. The importance of regular maintenance ...
Damn, how did I not find this channel way earlier than now... how many times I searched issues with the 2.7t... never saw any of your vids. No idea why you popped up right away.... very informative and this is the only vid of watched so far. It was from a while ago, but someone’s always going to need help!! Thank you much my man. This is going to be super helpful. I appreciate your time and effort (almost a decade ago) so thank you.
Thank you for that, greatly appreciate the way you took the time to explain everything like if you're talking to someone right in front of you, very helpful I myself have a 2.7 L allroad. 2004, greatly appreciated once again for the explaining that you do, keep it up, very helpful to us. ... please continue explaining on subjects that are Connected to the allroad
MrRio1973 What would cause my car to have a misfire I put in brand new coils and spark plugs, I also changed the valve cover gasket, it shake a little and the engine smokes a little
@@isaacmacias4295 another thread I saw said to replace the two ICM.s (ignition control modules)
One of the best videos Ive seen for these types of vehicles - impressive knowldge, great delivery - kudos.
Most informative video I've seen on the subject
Wow! Out of the weeks worth of forum searches and still being sooo un-informed, in 20min you gave me a wealth of knowledge about the 2.7T! Thank you very much! Soooo much good info! Idk shit about these cars yet but having this issue.... some sorta over pressurizing, misfire, detonating like behavior above 4k rpm after K04, clutch and gaskets install! So this should help me I hope! 🙏
I have a 2.7 l -04 allroad. Going to look over all my valves. Thanks. Excellent video. Keep it up.
excellent explanation and I'm sure it's the reason my S4 is throwing the P1127 and P1129 codes...
Excellent video; I think, this info would apply to my 1.8T as well. At 14 years old and almost 100k; I am going through ALL of the boost related hoses and valves, parts that are boost related, on my 2002 New Beetle Turbo S with the 1.8T AWP engine. I've noticed, that allot of the valves; like the DV , N249, N75, etc, are in "soft failure" mode and while they technically "work", they are not up to correct performing levels. This is also, probably why; traditional testing methods, cannot replicate real world scenarios and how things work, in a hot engine. Each part I replaced; the boost increased and smoothed out, the boost flutter and low psi. Thanks for the video; I appreciate more in depth tech like in this video, this is the type of info and observations, that come from working on VW's all the time. Thanks again and keep up the good work! :)
Yes it absolutely applies to the 1.8t I'm just in the process of making the video still.
I look forward to that! I'm mainly; working with Mark IV 1.8T's and helping others in support forums, figure out their drivability issues. Your experience and "putting it all together", way of explaining things is really helpful and appreciated! It kinda seems like a domino effect on these VW's; one thing in the system fails and it affects or ends up destroying, everything else! :) Thanks again and keep these in depth videos coming! :)
PS: it would be cool; to hear about your new career changes, what working in a Audi dealership is like and what your outlook is on the current VAG repair industry. What you are doing now and where you would like to go, in the future! :) It is always nice; to hear about those "in the trenches" and what your perspective is on VW and all the changes that are taking place in the German Auto industry. Thanks!
+Billy P. I'm not really working. I had a son born with a birth defect who now at almost 2 years old has a colostomy bag. He's happy and healthy other than that, but can't be put into normal childcare because of it.
I'm working on a website called German Auto Institute to teach these things and how to use all the info in the scan tool that backyard mechanics don't even know is there really. So that will be my job more or less. Hoping to attract some sponsors and things like that.
I'm really enjoying; the "humble mechanic" lately but many times want more technical information; there is room on youtube for your approach! Going in depth and explaining how different systems work overall and how they all related to each other, how it affects the other related systems. It sounds like; you have a wide experience working with specific models, so you can explain how things work and also, bring your experience into play. Knowing the failure modes, typical failure parts and engineering weaknesses, only seems to come with working on these cars and seeing the same problems, over, over and over again. This kind of information is needed! I hope, you can figure out a revenue stream and business plan, that can work out to support you and your family. Thanks, again! :) I look forward; to your upcoming videos!
+Billy P. Yes him and I started around the same time when I had my podcast. When my son was born I had to stop.
I was watching some of his and noticed it doesn't go quite as in depth as well.
I'd say there's room for both. I'm aiming more at professional mechanics or just people looking for more in depth info.
You just described my Allroad's entire problem lol
Thank you so much
Just found this great vid. I am planning on adding an oil catch can to help alleviate these problems in the future.
You could be an instructor, i subbed!👍👍 i learned more from this short video than years of screwing with motor
chris williams I'm actually working on an online training course program right now that will be on GermanAutoInstitute.com, I'm just working on modeling things in 3d currently so people will be able to see how the parts look.
German Auto Institute awesome!!! I will keep an eye out for it.
As all the other comments this is a great explanation of a very confusing and complex system, much better than other explanations, I have made an entirely new spider assy from heat rated silicone hose and reused the factory quick connects, my particular 2.7 was the 230HP model which still had the F hose so i deleted that, I also replaced the one green check valve on top of the intake as that was damaged, still have a massive issue in that the car runs fine, but its way to rich especially at idle, so im guessing vac leak, i have replaced various oe hoses on the system that looked bad but i cannot now find another leak, its very hard to see much of the vac system on this car as its so cramped. Now I have those values you mentioned for the MAF I will at least be able to check them as I fear my MAF may now be reading incorrectly but i also fear this is still down to a leak somewhere, I even did a smoke test and found nothing. DV Valves were also replaced for good oem plastic ones already
Did you find the problem, I have the same issues as you?
@@bkingtz1 torn throttle body boot was hard to spot until I did proper pressure test
@@adv-nomad
Thanks a lot for the reply (after all these years heh).
I'm really having a problem with mine, misfires, usually codes of too rich mixture, and sometimes to lean, and he is gulping gas like crazy, I think I am just pouring a liquid gasoline from the exhaust 😂
Great video ! My 03 a6 2.7T has an oil leak and its getting on the belt and going every were and it doesn't pour out but when driving it leaks a decent amount and seems to be coming from around the valve cover , has 100,800 miles
also check the oil cap make sure you have the updated psi release.
Just saved my damn life bro... my 06 allroad quattro just started having Boost problems and I know my Spider and F-hose assembly are brittle. New valves and tubes and give her a good cleaning too. TLC
This was a very helpful video. Thanks for sharing!
Perfect timing with this ad, my 2004 Allroad went from running great to loss of power, no CEL just sluggish until I build up then runs okay, no weird sounds or smoke?
Most likely this breather system stuff.
Perfect video, thanks alot.
Spectacular video. Thanks alot.
I'm pretty sure I have a boost leak. I did the spider hose from 034 motorsports. I noticed a broken vacuum hose that goes to what I believe is the vacuum reservoir. I did the DV valves (plastic). My symptoms were bad gas mileage, intermittent cylinder 4/random misfire (under load), lose of power and failed a boost leak test instantly (couldn't hold even 1psi). I'm hoping it's not valves, valve springs or head gasket. One thing you said about the built of pressure in the bottom end that hits homes with my issue... Is my oil pan gasket started pushing out, my front crank shaft gasket popped out and leaked oil, I notice oil leaking from the back on the motor (cam seals, half moon, etc.). I am guessing this is all caused by a boost/vacuum leak either that broken hose did it over time or there's a bigger leak somewhere else, or it's really really bad and something much worse. I am going to just do anything and everything you mentioned and see what happens.
What check valve is that at 1:30 ?Near the fuel pressure regulator.
what is the part number for the RS6 DV?
so if it would be the way you say, it should run bad/wrong/rough when oil fill cap would be opened right? from what i know and checked it runs normally.
Great videos!
what would cause rough idle in a 2002 allroad only while stopped and goes away when you drive?
Hello there im looking to buy 2004 allroad 2.7t what things should i be looking at before buying it ?
All this in the video, oil leaks at the backs of the cylinder heads, upper control arm bushings worn which you can see with a flashlight even with the car on the ground looking above the wheels up front.
Curious as to how you removed the valley pan with the coolant hard pipe installed. I tried to remove it from my BEL engine and I kept hitting the coolant hard pipe.
you have to drain the system and remove the bolts on the back right side holding that hard pipe.
Ok i have a a6 2.7t 2000 on idle it stall out and wen am driving it stall out any idea
Hi, i have a 2011 S4 3.0TSFI with coolant leak which i suspect it is leaking through to the exhaust because it gives a steam exhaust when idling, what could be the problem? Is it a top gasket fail? Spider pipe leak? EGR fail? ... i would like some help before i take it to the specialist.
How to fix Excessive crank case pressure 2000 Audi A6 Quattro 2.7T???
replace the spider hose 034motorsport sells the stock and also made a silicone version thats better.
Hey man So My B5 6 speed is like jumping whenever I hit boost. Its almost like my engine is getting slammed around in the engine bay is what it feels like...its fine until i hit the boost then it studders and feels like absolute doo doo New plugs recent. No engine codes...stage 2 ECU after market diverter valves..
Bro where are u located?
do the 2.7 c5 6mt sedans have the same exact engine code? APB?
Depends of the year. After from 2003 is BEL , APB has ignition coils square with bolts. BEL has 2.0 style
My 2.7 is leaking oil and gets poor gas mileage. Where are you located?? And where could i find all of these parts?
My 2001 S4 recently started loosing boost, also when I throttle it and go up to high rpms my boost goes down to 10 psi and the car starts "stuttering" and rpms raise very, very slow if I try to hold boost at 5psi it just drops, what could it be?
Moto Utah you wouldn’t have found out what the problem is? I’m having the same problem
@@Dom-wg1pk me too. decent in first but if i floor it she goes no where, 3/4s of the way works better
FuxEmUp I figured it out my maf was bad and my crankcase breather hose was broken. If you have an aftermarket CAI your ignition wires might be to close to the maf
Quick Question!! So my Audi A6 2.7 2001 Has been dying on me while driving every time I drive it for 1-2 hours I was told it was the battery or alternator and I replaced them both brand new so I don’t know what could be the problem, something is killing the battery
Isaac macias I have a very long in depth vehicle describing how to diagnose the alternator and charging system and identify if that's the issue.
Do you have to jump start it after that it dies? If not then it's the fuel pump or crank sensor most likely.
Mine stutters between 4th and 6th gear under load before boost.? Currently running jfone stage 3 f21! So it suffocates like before boost
Hey I have a a6 Quattro 2.7t that I did a f21 stage 3 tune to and ever since I did the tune it's burning super rich on idle and has rondum misfire, I checked for vacuum leaks, sparks plugs and coil but still can't find the problem.
Any help will much be appreciated.
Thanks.
@@simroycampbell1477 did you ever find the solution to the problem?
@@freddiemendoza4188 yes it was the spider house that was leaking
I have a c5 2.7 that I am slowly fixing and I was driving it finally and it would accelerate very slowly and the rpms would build slowly then it would shift and would run normal until I stopped at a light again would that be a problem with a boost leak?
Nearly ALL rpm and boost issues can be traced to their breather system as shown in this video.
That'd be more of a vacuum leak than a boost leak, but it's ALLLLL part of this system yes. You really need to do it all in reality or you'll just keep having issues with breaking pipes, oil leaks, failing mass airflow sensors, the oil leaks will leak onto coolant hoses, and eat those. And like the video says, the breather system being bad will throw the maf readings off, and the shift points off for the trans. So even when you're at full throttle and the trans is under max load and it needs to have maximum transmission fluid pressure, it won't, and that'll cause transmission failure through internal slipping.
So, if you want to try to find the a broken hose or a hose with a hole, get a can of brake cleaner or starting fluid, start the engine, and spray the hoses in the engine bay. Don't do the whole engine bay at once, concentrate on specific areas, and make sure you spray down at the hoses that aren't right on top. When you find the broken hose you'll hear the RPM pick up on the engine as it gets sucked into the engine and burned.
Do you happen to have an OBD 2 capable scan tool, one of the ones that can read the values in the scan tool like the fuel trims, maf reading, etc?
I don't have much time to check the car now since the front tires are now flat but I did notice a hose was a little bit loose so that kind of changed how it ran at idle so hope that's it when I do get to driving it thanks
You don't really need to drive it to figure this system out. You can do what I'm saying with it sitting.
And if you have an air compressor, you can do a boost pressure test on it as well. Where was the loose hose?
Also, FYI, where the boost pipes come off the timing covers and go to the Y connector at the throttle body, that rubber Y at the throttle body is one of the main failure points, reach up under that pipe with your finger and feel around or use the brake clean to spray around that area.
With how you're describing the super slow RPM build and stuff, you probably don't want to drive it. It's not in limp mode is it? If it is the indicator for what gear the car is in willl be ghosted and it may not tell you what gear it's in.
The boot in front of the throttle body was loose from underneath a little and no as far as I know it is not in limp mode
Dame! u are good! Thanks 4 sharing! I have one 2.7T Allroad 2004 Most informative video I've seen on the subject!
Im about to get my first "modern' car (because not to keen on the electronics in them) a Audi Allroad 2.7bt. I waited so long due to gain trust with new technology in them (strange I know) just like to know if possible, how is it to own for long term, any problems? computer glitches, seal problems? wanted one of these for ever, but it's full of computer power.
I own 3 b3's (2 of them were gen2 Quattro) not one problem for 12 years, apart from one had a ignition coil problem, 100$ fix.
Those check valves need to be replaced,all of them! Take from me, my 2000 s4 automatic pop the crankshaft seal and leaked all the oil in the engine. One of the check valves got stock close and needless to say everything in front and top of the engine had to come off in order to fix the seal and the bad check valve.
Wheres your shop?
thats strange my 2.7 has the combi valves its a apb i hate the combi valves. and its not a avant
wait a sec you said 2.7t doesn't have combi valves mine has 2 one on each side fucks up my access to the valve gaskets.
mine is a early 2000 a6 2.7t base not allroad
MIT smart
When did you start putting your name online ;) I have to confess this guy taught me much of this shit.
To bad I crashed my issue was in here when I pulled the motor lolz
great video... I have s4 b5 stage 3 K04 turbos ... GIAC chip... I have a EGT delete....is that problematic?
Hey I have a b5 s4 and the other day I went on break at work and it ran perfectly, then I went out 5 hours later to leave work and it started misfired and died, if I drive it and get it up to temp itll run and stay running but run rough I checked the codes and I got p1128 p1130 and it had a p0305 the other night and it went from running 20psi of boost to now it wont go over 6, any ideas what it could be? Once the cars warm and running a bit better it is running perfect vacuum