I've said it before, but the fact that Park are sharing such well produced, informative and entertaining videos without pushing a single one of their products makes them da real MVPs in my eyes. Thanks Park, Truman, Calvin and the production team!
Could not agree more! Among my favourite channels for bike repair and maintanance to recommend. Also like the chemistry between Calvin and Truman. Also, camera work, sound, lighting is top notch. Furthermore, the subtle product placement works on me ;-) If there is a Park Tool product I tend to purchase it. Unforunately, the fluid helpers etc. are hard to come by in Germany.
@@GrigoryRechistov Yeah, I had to wonder where they got them all, they're not pretending, those are for real stuck. They could have been from an org that takes donations of old bikes to be refurbished for a good cause.
I had an alloy seat post stuck in a steel seat tube, and pretty sure the manufacturer never greasesd the post when building the bike. I taped a plastic around the top of seat tube, and soaked WD-40 (penetrating oil) into the tube for 3 days. A mechanic mate helped me (desperate), and put an 18" pipe wrench onto the seat tube, and then a 4' pipe onto the wrench; and we got the seat tube out. I had to buy a new seat tube (approx $35), well worth it as my knee ligaments couldn't tolerate the saddle being low. I did apply grease with the new seat tube. Calvin - a good video on an obscure task.
Needed this video a few years back! Tried much of these methods and eventually managed to melt an aluminum seat post out of my steel frame with lye/caustic soda. Don't let those seat posts win!
There is no way to use an extraction tool if the post is bonded to the frame. The 'jab saw' is about as good as there is. Perhaps motorize it with a 'Sawzall'?
The guilty party is AL2O3, often caused by sweat. I once heard the sound at 8:56 when I had an Aluminum quill stem stuck in a steel steerer tube and used a bench vise to twist it free. PS: Twisting on a saddle, can destroy the saddle by bending, or breaking the rails.
This is exactly how it works in the workshop - in the end the vice or the whole table turns. Where do you get all the old and broken bikes from? if the seat post is made of steel, you can also weld on a large nut and try to turn the seat post with an impact wrench. It makes a hell of a noise but is also a lot of fun.
As someone who works on used/discarded bikes, this is such a common occurrence that I've often checked the condition of the sear post prior to initiating any kind of work on the remainder of the bike. Imagine if you can spending multiple hours refurbishing a bike, to find that you can't do anything with the seat post.
Great demo and loved and last tool. I had the same issue with a carbon frame and an aluminum dropper post. After months of creative ideas without any success, I gave my bike to a local store that promised to release the post in no time. They did managed to take the post out, but on the expensive of cracking the fame. This was the first and last time that I gave someone else do any work on my bike.
Fine video fellas, very useful. One thing to not try….had a bad one many years ago. Tried lube, pipe wrench, and vise with no progress. Someone had the wise idea to drill a hole through the post, dump a bunch of lube in it, insert a large screwdriver through the hole and turn. We found out pretty quick that 4-6 hands trying to turn it would only shatter it into approximately 12,000 pieces of razor sharp shrapnel. All mechanics walked away, barely. Made for a good story. Keep the videos coming, thanks much. Stephen
Great video, good to see that some jobs aren't straightforward! I recently got one out using a screw jack (from a car wheel changi9ng set) between the top tube and the saddle as tight into the set post as I could get. Danger of distorting the top tube bu by doing it very slowly, a quarter turn of the screw at a time I could keep an eye on it to make sure the seat post was moving and the top tube wasn't distorting. It worked!
They're a gorgeous bike, I'm delighted to see that Calvin and Truman were able to save that one. Be right back, going out to check my own Zip's seat post is still free! (it's lubed, but hasn't been moved in a while).
The high grit sandpaper in the clamp is a new one to me. I'm sure i'll end up having to utilize that at some point. I have definitely learned to check all seat posts for seizure before bringing bikes in to inventory!
One thing. If you have the frame upside down in the vice, remove the BB and spray the penetrating lubricant down the hole of the BB which should seep between the seat tube and the seat post? As an engineer, I thoroughly enjoyed all the methods and over the years have pretty used most of them. Thanks for another fun video.
If you have BB removed this should work. I do it for good measure. However, the amount needed to wet the inside needs to acounted for which is not easy to judge if I am not missing something. Using the screw holes is good for vinegar but penetrating oil is a bit expensive to use it this way. (Call me a cheapskate ;-) )
Wow! How timely! I am currently confronting having to remove an old seatpost that just broke its head by fatigue. I plan to first soak the post with vinegar and penetrating oil by letting them seep between the seatpost and the seat tube. I know it is really seized, so I plan 2 different extreme procedures: a) Pull the seatpost straight out with a rope and pulley system (with a purchase ratio 128:1). I don't see it justified to build the rig just for one occasion. b) If a) doesn't work, saw the seatpost away. But I'll use a powered saw. I don't have the patience you displayed.
I might have to try some of these methods on my 1980s Fuji Del Rey; the seat post has been stuck for years; I’ve already written off the old seat post and the original saddle was unfortunately destroyed in the process.
How did you find the bikes to work on in this video? Do you have bikes piled up behind the shop deteriorating in the weather? That was a serious array of stuck sestposts.
A few trips to the police station, community bike shop, and regular bike shops allowed us to collect most of these. We also caused a few of them to corrode and get stuck by using a mixture of a few common household chemicals.
My back is killing my from only watching this video! Are your backs not sore from all the twisting and pulling Calvin and Truman? Advice: Instead of a jab saw use an electric sabre saw with extended blade, cuttig oil and a head lamp to check your progress constantly.
I’ve done the twist and pull but seeing you doing the inside sawing I thought if it would work making two cuts close together instead of opposite and then try to pull that thin piece first.
Great video! I've often wondered why we can't come up with an impact tool that loosens these post up. You need something that is super quick and easy especially if your paying shop labor.
@@ReportReport-fz2pn yea, I went back and rewatched his video. I wonder if something like a large universal socket would able to give enough clamping power to break the post free. That would save time from drilling holes in the post.
@@notanomad9320 I can't think of a socket that would clamp, but there are lug nut removers which have internal, spiral teeth, that might grab. But an impact driver shocks with repeated hammer blows, so not sure the lug nut remover would grab enough. Also, would depend on if you're trying to save the seat post, frame, or both.
When you do get that inital cracking noise its best to let it cool down. That noise is heat and expansion. Carrying on means its going to grind and grove its way out. Best apply ice at this point and let it shrink again. Itll come out easier with less damage on its way out
I've cut out seat posts using a long blade on a reciprocal saw. The trick there is to wrap tape at the end of the blade, so you don't cut into the frame. Have removed alloy posts out of carbon frames that way.
This brings back nightmares of a stuck aero seatpost I worked on this summer. Gald I got it out without having to saw it. Heating and gentle tapping upward with a hammer did the trick.
About the slotting method: once you have 2 or even only one done, you can clamp the vice-grip and bang on its head. You could avoid more cutting earlier than you think. Also, we have successfully cut seatposts with the blade in a reciprocating saw. You have to be careful of course, but it can become 15 minutes of cutting instead of 3 hours. Only to be done with steel frames. If you hit the steel with blade a bit, things will be fine, and they wouldn't with aluminum or carbon.
One more tip. If you do use a pipe wrench grab the post as far away from the bike as possible because the pipe wrench can elongate the post locking it even harder.
The Yorkshire Bike Mechanic has a spring loaded rollers ripsaw for seatpost cutting , the spring loaded rollers keep the pressure on the blade so all you have to do is the back & fore motion.
Best summarizing video I’ve seen on YT till now😎Could you please name the type of saw you used for cutting the inside of the seatpost in half and could you tell where the seatpost puller is coming from? Great job you two🌟🌟🌟
If using a jab saw or for that matter any of the technique where corrosion product are dropping down as you remove the post, what does it mean for the bottom bracket. If am just wondering if you have to pull it and clean that space up and then reinstall
Mostly unlikely, especially if the hardware installed at the bottom bracket shell has good fitment (can vary with each seatpost puller) and if there's a junk bottom bracket module to further protect the bottom bracket shell. If I were to design one, the hardware installed into the bottom bracket shell would be a dummy bottom bracket with a bore for a rod to go through it (light interference fit for zero play) and the puller. Bottom bracket shells are already designed to withstand powerful pedaling forces, but it doesn't take concentrated pressure points into account, so your concern is valid.
@@sbccbc7471 My thoughts as well. I'd be inclined to design it to use a 24 mm puller rod, to enable using ubiquitous Shimano Hollowtech II bottom brackets to fill the shell.
Thanks guys! Embarrassed to say I’ve just checked my bikes and had to resort to a heat gun to get the carbon post out my road bikes alloy frame - oops! Maybe saved it just in time too…
@@MartinKiely-c3r Good to know! I always grease (or grip compound, for carbon) thoroughly when I first install a seatpost, but that's good evidence that it needs to be refreshed from time to time!
It looks like a discontinued Klein Tool #703 Jab Saw. I just bought a new old stock one on eBay; it's identical except they're using a silver one and mine's blue. The seller has three more available.
These kinds of challenges provoke some metaphysical thoughts in me - just like when cleaning an oven where the grease is black and almost welded to the surface of the oven: At which point are the molecules of the grease so intertwined with those of the surface that it has literally become part of the oven? And at which point has the seatpost corroded so much into the seat tube that the two have become one? 🤯
How about mounting a headset compression plug or a star nut into the top of the seat post (a part that sticks out from the frame, preferably), then screwing in a bearing extractor with an impact hammer and try hammering it out?
Reaming it out is the nuclear option. It's guaranteed to work but it will take hours and your wrists will take weeks to recover! Towards the end you'll see that the post really is essentially welded to the frame.
@parktool Do you have some advice as to what to use for the seatpost/seat tube maintenance to avoid corrosion with different frame and seatpost materials (aluminium, steel, carbon). So when to use for example grease, anti-seize, copper grease, etc? And how can you avoid the seatpost slipping when greasing?
If the hardware's fitment at the bottom bracket shell is good, I don't see why it'd be a problem. I'd use a rod as large as the bore itself to distribute pressure most evenly. The frame they were working on has a junk bottom bracket module, so that's fine.
I noticed that they kept a scrap BB cup in the shell - it would be disastrous to try anything like that with the shell empty - apart from thread damage, the shell would get ovalised.
@ roughly 21 mins in, with a rough, razor sharp is spots broken post jutting out the risk of slamming your hands into that sharp edge is very high. Wear thick gloves when doing this!
I'd try dropping chips of dry ice into the post from the inside, upside-down via the bottom bracket. The aluminum should shrink but the carbon not so much.
The differential heat (hot/cold) technique isn't that hard, you need to remove the seat clamp from the top of the post (saw it off) and then push lumps of frozen CO2 (from your local plumbers merchant) into the post. Once there is frost appearing on the outside of the post/frame apply heat to the frame seat tube (not the post) just as demonstrated here.
Uff they should use some soft plastic bushings or even one with threads before inserting the pipe in the bottom bracket or u will damage the threads or press fit.
Look at smallish bearing pullers - the hooked arms that go around the outside of the bearing MIGHT work around the outside of the crank arm. (Assuming that the crank arm is going to garbage afterwards)
You know what goes through my mind whenever I’m doing something that’s tedious like this? Instead of thinking about the size and amounts of shavings it’s going to take….i think about how much time and money I could have saved if I had just done normal maintenance on my bike in the first place🤦🏻♂️
Shall we infer, from the fact that the pulling jig wasn't painted blue, that Park won't be mass-producing and selling this tool? But I'm sure you'd sell dozen of them! Maybe even a baker's dozen!
That is not a good thing, as you know. Be sure to check with the frame manufacturer. An acid soak and some twisting when clamping the lower post might help. As stated, think things through, and then, you just go for it....even if it is sending it off to someone.
The methods they are demonstrating in the video cause little to no damage to the bike frame, and shows just how important greasing your seat post is too.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey, thanks for watching! Have you had to unstick a seatpost before? How did you do it? And yes, we know we misspelled VISE.
Both "vice" and "vise" are valid spellings for the bench-top clamping tool.
Y'all should make that Xtreme Pulling jig, XP-1 has got a nice ring to it
Today got to unstuck steel seatpost from a steel frame.
I've said it before, but the fact that Park are sharing such well produced, informative and entertaining videos without pushing a single one of their products makes them da real MVPs in my eyes.
Thanks Park, Truman, Calvin and the production team!
Could not agree more! Among my favourite channels for bike repair and maintanance to recommend. Also like the chemistry between Calvin and Truman. Also, camera work, sound, lighting is top notch. Furthermore, the subtle product placement works on me ;-) If there is a Park Tool product I tend to purchase it. Unforunately, the fluid helpers etc. are hard to come by in Germany.
Wow, props for using actual stuck seatposts instead of just presenting some theoretical techniques!
They must have had access to a bunch of old frames with seatposts, and a bunch of those posts have likely corroded.
@@GrigoryRechistov Yeah, I had to wonder where they got them all, they're not pretending, those are for real stuck. They could have been from an org that takes donations of old bikes to be refurbished for a good cause.
@@stephensaines7100 My guess was that they've been saving them up as friends and family bring them, until they felt they had enough to make the video.
thx for sticking with us
i see what you did here
Wow, this video must have taken weeks to make it! I’m pretty impressed with the amount of knowledge and energy from you guys!
I had an alloy seat post stuck in a steel seat tube, and pretty sure the manufacturer never greasesd the post when building the bike. I taped a plastic around the top of seat tube, and soaked WD-40 (penetrating oil) into the tube for 3 days. A mechanic mate helped me (desperate), and put an 18" pipe wrench onto the seat tube, and then a 4' pipe onto the wrench; and we got the seat tube out. I had to buy a new seat tube (approx $35), well worth it as my knee ligaments couldn't tolerate the saddle being low. I did apply grease with the new seat tube. Calvin - a good video on an obscure task.
As ALWAYS, a surprising amount of knowledge in the Park Tool videos. Thank you, Calvin!
28:53 When Is the park tool SPR-1 (Seatpost remover) coming out?
I hope not with that kind of design. There are better design with similar concept that other people made and was showed here in yt.
Needed this video a few years back! Tried much of these methods and eventually managed to melt an aluminum seat post out of my steel frame with lye/caustic soda. Don't let those seat posts win!
the main reason why I buy park tools is because of Calvin and Truman
When is parktool coming out with the extreme seatpost extration tool?
Local fabricators can make one, especially if they have a good understanding about bicycles.
Let me guess, it'll be called the XSPE-01 😂
There is no way to use an extraction tool if the post is bonded to the frame. The 'jab saw' is about as good as there is. Perhaps motorize it with a 'Sawzall'?
www.youtube.com/@PhilVandelay
This was unexpectedly wholesome, what nice guys 💪
The guilty party is AL2O3, often caused by sweat.
I once heard the sound at 8:56 when I had an Aluminum quill stem stuck in a steel steerer tube and used a bench vise to twist it free.
PS: Twisting on a saddle, can destroy the saddle by bending, or breaking the rails.
Yes, quill stems suffer the same problems. Perhaps more, as seats are moved more often.
This is exactly how it works in the workshop - in the end the vice or the whole table turns. Where do you get all the old and broken bikes from?
if the seat post is made of steel, you can also weld on a large nut and try to turn the seat post with an impact wrench. It makes a hell of a noise but is also a lot of fun.
Thanks for sticking with us, Heh good one
As someone who works on used/discarded bikes, this is such a common occurrence that I've often checked the condition of the sear post prior to initiating any kind of work on the remainder of the bike. Imagine if you can spending multiple hours refurbishing a bike, to find that you can't do anything with the seat post.
The challenge of pulling a stuck post can be fun or incredibly tedious…. And sometimes both!
Yes, the chance of failing catastrophically adds to the success and failure makes a good story....
Great demo and loved and last tool. I had the same issue with a carbon frame and an aluminum dropper post.
After months of creative ideas without any success, I gave my bike to a local store that promised to release the post in no time.
They did managed to take the post out, but on the expensive of cracking the fame.
This was the first and last time that I gave someone else do any work on my bike.
Fine video fellas, very useful. One thing to not try….had a bad one many years ago. Tried lube, pipe wrench, and vise with no progress. Someone had the wise idea to drill a hole through the post, dump a bunch of lube in it, insert a large screwdriver through the hole and turn. We found out pretty quick that 4-6 hands trying to turn it would only shatter it into approximately 12,000 pieces of razor sharp shrapnel. All mechanics walked away, barely. Made for a good story.
Keep the videos coming, thanks much.
Stephen
Great video, good to see that some jobs aren't straightforward!
I recently got one out using a screw jack (from a car wheel changi9ng set) between the top tube and the saddle as tight into the set post as I could get. Danger of distorting the top tube bu by doing it very slowly, a quarter turn of the screw at a time I could keep an eye on it to make sure the seat post was moving and the top tube wasn't distorting.
It worked!
Yeah, the risk of damage, especially with a thin-wall Reynolds or the like, is high. It hurt just to watch this.
Had to watch to see to see the solution. Always a crap shoot with used bikes. Let the games begin!
That MB-Zip is a beauty
They're a gorgeous bike, I'm delighted to see that Calvin and Truman were able to save that one. Be right back, going out to check my own Zip's seat post is still free! (it's lubed, but hasn't been moved in a while).
The high grit sandpaper in the clamp is a new one to me. I'm sure i'll end up having to utilize that at some point. I have definitely learned to check all seat posts for seizure before bringing bikes in to inventory!
One thing. If you have the frame upside down in the vice, remove the BB and spray the penetrating lubricant down the hole of the BB which should seep between the seat tube and the seat post?
As an engineer, I thoroughly enjoyed all the methods and over the years have pretty used most of them. Thanks for another fun video.
If you have BB removed this should work. I do it for good measure. However, the amount needed to wet the inside needs to acounted for which is not easy to judge if I am not missing something. Using the screw holes is good for vinegar but penetrating oil is a bit expensive to use it this way. (Call me a cheapskate ;-) )
Bottle holder holes are good for running lube down.
Wow! How timely! I am currently confronting having to remove an old seatpost that just broke its head by fatigue.
I plan to first soak the post with vinegar and penetrating oil by letting them seep between the seatpost and the seat tube.
I know it is really seized, so I plan 2 different extreme procedures:
a) Pull the seatpost straight out with a rope and pulley system (with a purchase ratio 128:1). I don't see it justified to build the rig just for one occasion.
b) If a) doesn't work, saw the seatpost away. But I'll use a powered saw. I don't have the patience you displayed.
Awesome! Best tech video ever. Bet you guys had fun making that one.
This was a really entertaining video to watch, thank you!
I might have to try some of these methods on my 1980s Fuji Del Rey; the seat post has been stuck for years; I’ve already written off the old seat post and the original saddle was unfortunately destroyed in the process.
make one of these videos for stuck quill stems ? beautiful vid as allways
That was a perfectly good integrated seat post! 😆
How did you find the bikes to work on in this video? Do you have bikes piled up behind the shop deteriorating in the weather? That was a serious array of stuck sestposts.
A few trips to the police station, community bike shop, and regular bike shops allowed us to collect most of these. We also caused a few of them to corrode and get stuck by using a mixture of a few common household chemicals.
were the trips to the police station to pick up bikes or to bail one of you out after "acquiring" samples?
Was that large puller, used at the end of the video, custom made for this video? Or is it available for purchase by other shops?
Some fabricators may sell seatpost pullers like this one. Park Tool have never made such a tool.
@@sbccbc7471 how sell It wordwilde?
you can built on on your own or have it built. Phil Vandelay covers it in a video and offers plans
ruclips.net/video/mJ8R_Dqk1u0/видео.html
World wide Lube Your Seatpost Day is 27.2. as Feb 27th.
Makes sense
My back is killing my from only watching this video! Are your backs not sore from all the twisting and pulling Calvin and Truman?
Advice: Instead of a jab saw use an electric sabre saw with extended blade, cuttig oil and a head lamp to check your progress constantly.
I’ve done the twist and pull but seeing you doing the inside sawing I thought if it would work making two cuts close together instead of opposite and then try to pull that thin piece first.
Great video! I've often wondered why we can't come up with an impact tool that loosens these post up. You need something that is super quick and easy especially if your paying shop labor.
JR The Bike Guy has a number of stuck seat post videos. One uses an impact driver.
@@ReportReport-fz2pn yea, I went back and rewatched his video. I wonder if something like a large universal socket would able to give enough clamping power to break the post free. That would save time from drilling holes in the post.
@@notanomad9320 I can't think of a socket that would clamp, but there are lug nut removers which have internal, spiral teeth, that might grab. But an impact driver shocks with repeated hammer blows, so not sure the lug nut remover would grab enough. Also, would depend on if you're trying to save the seat post, frame, or both.
When you do get that inital cracking noise its best to let it cool down. That noise is heat and expansion. Carrying on means its going to grind and grove its way out. Best apply ice at this point and let it shrink again. Itll come out easier with less damage on its way out
I've cut out seat posts using a long blade on a reciprocal saw. The trick there is to wrap tape at the end of the blade, so you don't cut into the frame. Have removed alloy posts out of carbon frames that way.
Extreme pulling Is on Parktool store?
I actually went to their website to see if they added one to the catalog with this video release.
They've never made one.
@yonglingng5640 why?
Thanks for all the tips!
You're welcome!
All the small particles that are falling, are they from the seat post...or the frame is what i was thinking!
This brings back nightmares of a stuck aero seatpost I worked on this summer. Gald I got it out without having to saw it. Heating and gentle tapping upward with a hammer did the trick.
About the slotting method: once you have 2 or even only one done, you can clamp the vice-grip and bang on its head. You could avoid more cutting earlier than you think.
Also, we have successfully cut seatposts with the blade in a reciprocating saw. You have to be careful of course, but it can become 15 minutes of cutting instead of 3 hours. Only to be done with steel frames. If you hit the steel with blade a bit, things will be fine, and they wouldn't with aluminum or carbon.
One more tip. If you do use a pipe wrench grab the post as far away from the bike as possible because the pipe wrench can elongate the post locking it even harder.
The Yorkshire Bike Mechanic has a spring loaded rollers ripsaw for seatpost cutting , the spring loaded rollers keep the pressure on the blade so all you have to do is the back & fore motion.
Is this featured in a video of his? I did a search on his page, but no luck. Thank you.
Best summarizing video I’ve seen on YT till now😎Could you please name the type of saw you used for cutting the inside of the seatpost in half and could you tell where the seatpost puller is coming from? Great job you two🌟🌟🌟
Thank you very much for this video!
incredibly satisfying.
If using a jab saw or for that matter any of the technique where corrosion product are dropping down as you remove the post, what does it mean for the bottom bracket. If am just wondering if you have to pull it and clean that space up and then reinstall
Depends on the bottom bracket style but removal would be the best option to keep it in the best overall condition.
Any possibility of deforming the BB tubing with the puller?
Mostly unlikely, especially if the hardware installed at the bottom bracket shell has good fitment (can vary with each seatpost puller) and if there's a junk bottom bracket module to further protect the bottom bracket shell.
If I were to design one, the hardware installed into the bottom bracket shell would be a dummy bottom bracket with a bore for a rod to go through it (light interference fit for zero play) and the puller.
Bottom bracket shells are already designed to withstand powerful pedaling forces, but it doesn't take concentrated pressure points into account, so your concern is valid.
@@sbccbc7471 My thoughts as well. I'd be inclined to design it to use a 24 mm puller rod, to enable using ubiquitous Shimano Hollowtech II bottom brackets to fill the shell.
@@mattgies That's actually a neater idea. A few rods shaped after some existing crankset spindle standards.
Thanks guys! Embarrassed to say I’ve just checked my bikes and had to resort to a heat gun to get the carbon post out my road bikes alloy frame - oops! Maybe saved it just in time too…
Do you know whether it was originally installed dry, or with any kind of protective substance?
@@mattgies it was greased, but clearly it’s been too long since I last checked it!
@@MartinKiely-c3r Good to know! I always grease (or grip compound, for carbon) thoroughly when I first install a seatpost, but that's good evidence that it needs to be refreshed from time to time!
park tool SSPP-1 coming to qbp soon? (SHOP-Seat-Post-Puller)
Saw item number mentioned that holds blade for pushing into tube?
I'm also looking for similar, in the UK - "hack saw blade handle" is pulling up some pretty cheap and nasty looking tools
It looks like a discontinued Klein Tool #703 Jab Saw. I just bought a new old stock one on eBay; it's identical except they're using a silver one and mine's blue. The seller has three more available.
These kinds of challenges provoke some metaphysical thoughts in me - just like when cleaning an oven where the grease is black and almost welded to the surface of the oven:
At which point are the molecules of the grease so intertwined with those of the surface that it has literally become part of the oven?
And at which point has the seatpost corroded so much into the seat tube that the two have become one? 🤯
Informative and comprehensive as always from Park Tool. But guys, what's up with the baby talk?
How about mounting a headset compression plug or a star nut into the top of the seat post (a part that sticks out from the frame, preferably), then screwing in a bearing extractor with an impact hammer and try hammering it out?
Reaming it out is the nuclear option. It's guaranteed to work but it will take hours and your wrists will take weeks to recover! Towards the end you'll see that the post really is essentially welded to the frame.
Dang, wish I’d known y’all were doing this. I’ve a really stuck seat tube that I could’ve sent over lol 😆
@parktool Do you have some advice as to what to use for the seatpost/seat tube maintenance to avoid corrosion with different frame and seatpost materials (aluminium, steel, carbon). So when to use for example grease, anti-seize, copper grease, etc?
And how can you avoid the seatpost slipping when greasing?
There is suffering to perform this service.
Greetings from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Do a similar video for stuck stems please.
It's basically the same thing, just with smaller tubes.
Any advice on hernias please..😅
When does the SPP-1 go up for sale, guys?
Having worked at a shop, I can only assume these are staff commuter bikes. Poor things!
In my shop days had to do this several times with titanium Litespeed road frames and Al seatposts. Was not fun.
Always wondered if the last technique can damage the BB area . but anyway that is the reason we charge hourly for this.
If the hardware's fitment at the bottom bracket shell is good, I don't see why it'd be a problem. I'd use a rod as large as the bore itself to distribute pressure most evenly.
The frame they were working on has a junk bottom bracket module, so that's fine.
I noticed that they kept a scrap BB cup in the shell - it would be disastrous to try anything like that with the shell empty - apart from thread damage, the shell would get ovalised.
I love you calvin😥😥
30 minutes of stuck seatpost removal? Yes please! Right after I go remove my seatpost...
See you in a week, then!
@ roughly 21 mins in, with a rough, razor sharp is spots broken post jutting out the risk of slamming your hands into that sharp edge is very high. Wear thick gloves when doing this!
Can you tell me where I can get that jab saw? I believe I had the same saw, but was stolen from me in the late 90's.
Nice video. However i have an alu post stuck in a carbon frame. Most of the presented options won't work i'm afraid 😢
I'd try dropping chips of dry ice into the post from the inside, upside-down via the bottom bracket. The aluminum should shrink but the carbon not so much.
thank you
I like how you poured the acid on a grass floor ahhahaha
Thats the best spot for it :)
@@parktool Should have spelt out something on the grass...
Should have poured it over a salad.
The differential heat (hot/cold) technique isn't that hard, you need to remove the seat clamp from the top of the post (saw it off) and then push lumps of frozen CO2 (from your local plumbers merchant) into the post. Once there is frost appearing on the outside of the post/frame apply heat to the frame seat tube (not the post) just as demonstrated here.
Awesome stuff as always.. Its Vise.. not vice... sorry.. had to😬😁
Vice is the European spelling, so it's not totally wrong.
@type17 valid point 😁
That’s dedication. I would have junked that voodoo.
But not the MB-zip, right?... RIGHT?
Would the heat trick work for an aero carbon seatpost in a carbon frame? I find the idea terrifying.
I wouldn't subject any carbon part to heat.
@yonglingng5640 I am certain you are right.
Any fixes to remove a metal post from a carbon frame?
Maybe freeze the seatpost with dry ice. Don't heat the carbon with a heat gun. A hair dryer could be ok.
Uff they should use some soft plastic bushings or even one with threads before inserting the pipe in the bottom bracket or u will damage the threads or press fit.
The bottom bracket has threaded bearing cups matching the diameter of pipe. No threads were harmed in the making of this film.
Why don’t you use the puller every time? Seems pretty reliable.
We wanted to show methods accessible to everyone. The puller was custom made in house here at Park Tool.
Coca-cola works better than vinegar. Left it overnight once and found a seatpost and coke on the floor in the morning :)
I'm currently dealing with a stuck crank arm that's been on for 35 years and the threads are gone, so a puller won't work...
Look at smallish bearing pullers - the hooked arms that go around the outside of the bearing MIGHT work around the outside of the crank arm. (Assuming that the crank arm is going to garbage afterwards)
Galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals!! Need Corrosion inhibitor?
That's why people apply grease or anti-seize compound on their seatpost.
I do believe, that Dia-Compe sentimental value is infinite.
Do droppers get stuck?
I have a dropper stuck in a steel frame, so yes.
I have a dropper stuck in a carbon frame, so YES!
Corrosion the best Glue in the World.😮
"holy buckets"
"thanks for *sticking* with us"
ha!
You know what goes through my mind whenever I’m doing something that’s tedious like this? Instead of thinking about the size and amounts of shavings it’s going to take….i think about how much time and money I could have saved if I had just done normal maintenance on my bike in the first place🤦🏻♂️
Trumann looks like your friendly neighbourhood Wolverine
I've used a sawzall instead of hand cutting
28:16 Huh, someone overfed a brass instrument mouthpiece puller.
Seatpost stuck? Time for new bike day 🥳
before a pipe wrench, I'd try a band wrench with the rubber belt.
Having a hard time locating a jab saw like the one in the video
That exact type is hard to find new. Look on the used market.
u missed the trusty hammer
Shall we infer, from the fact that the pulling jig wasn't painted blue, that Park won't be mass-producing and selling this tool? But I'm sure you'd sell dozen of them! Maybe even a baker's dozen!
It's an extreme-case tool not all workshops will invest in, so it won't make sense for mass production.
@@sbccbc7471 ...that was the joke. I said they would be able to sell 12 or 13.
These are all the EASY scenarios.... Please help with a Dropper post stuck in a full suspension Carbon frame...???
That is not a good thing, as you know. Be sure to check with the frame manufacturer. An acid soak and some twisting when clamping the lower post might help. As stated, think things through, and then, you just go for it....even if it is sending it off to someone.
Arrrgh it’s a bench viSe not viCe😊
seriously is park tool stuck in stone age. they are behind times as there are diy tools for seat post extraction that work like miracles
it is clear that you haven't got your hands dirty enough working on bikes
they are giving you their expertise and knowledge for free, you don’t want it then don’t watch the video
The methods they are demonstrating in the video cause little to no damage to the bike frame, and shows just how important greasing your seat post is too.
Try watching the entire video.
Then let us participate in your divine knowledge, if any.... IMHO these are sensible options presented very nicely.