I bought a new F-150 this weekend. I went to a small town dealer that was advertising a truck that was in the ballpark of the price I was looking for. I followed your advice and asked for the Invoice sheet. The salesman said she had never had a customer ask her for that before, but gave me a copy. I told her that my wife and I were going to get some lunch and crunch some numbers and get right back to her. On the sheet I saw the "HB" code with "1062" so I made an offer at the invoice price.Of course she had to talk to her manager, and they rejected the offer, and countered, with $1000 above Invoice. They countered with an offer slightly above my latest offer, but well below the price I had in my head as the max I was willing to spend. So bargaining up from Invoice rather than down from MSRP paid off. THANKS
Mr Hunter , after watching your video, I did go car shopping, asked a few questions, the salesman ended up accusing me that i was from another dealership, was not interested in selling, chevy dealer. Ended up buying a Ford..Very happy
That's quite funny. A well informed customer sounds like an employee from another dealership. Well, that tells you something, doesn't it? The salesman immediately recognizes that you know your stuff, so much so that he thinks you work for another dealer. That's an awesome confirmation that the content we put out is right on the money!
I worked for Ford, Toyota, Lincoln, and Saturn for a total of 12 1/2 years and never knew half of what he has given us here today. Thank you for giving this invaluable knowledge to us for buying a new vehicle. Thumbs up!!
Bought a new car when I was in my mid twenties years ago. Got totally ripped off. They saw me coming a mile away. Have never bought a new car again. Always used cars about two to three years old. This is where you will find the best deals.
I did the same thing when I got my first real job and paycheck..bought a brand new truck..after 250k miles i had to get another one..this time it was less then 2 yrs old..with 50k.miles..has 255k now..I'm just gona squeeze another 100k more if i can...i dont want no more payments..esp on these 30 m 40 grand trucks now
Scott Carlon for sure when you walk in and say “I have cash” it’s like you don’t even exist lol. Used to be a great tool, now if they can’t make 15k additional in interest, they don’t even care.
No Shiite. They are basically selling you a mortgage to pay for inflated pricing. Except the vehicle purchased Loses value instead of gains value. It's a lose lose proposition for the buyer.
The first version of this video had a couple mistakes I wanted fixed, so we got it changed.. and here's the corrected version! Hope you all enjoy what me and my team are trying to do for you! Best of luck to all of you car shoppers out there!
Kevin Hunter what would be the downside of getting a five year loan if I’m being offered 0% percent interest? I can make payments as if it’s a 3 or 4 year loan, but they’ll only offer 2.9% on those? Are they doing 0% because they’re trying to rip me off somehow? Thanks.
No problem taking the five year loan, and then paying it down faster than the payments call for. Just watch the fine print on the loan document and make sure they are packing other products or fees in there on you.
@@eddiesvideos2012 You can choose the 0% but often times you will loose a few thousand $ in rebates. Usually the loss of rebates is far greater than the finance charge that you will pay on say a 3.00% loan. But, sometimes I have seen the 0% and all the rebates available together. The manufacturer sets the rebates and incentives, not the dealer. Please look at your offer both ways.
@@KevinHunter It's not packing you have to worry about. The dealer doesn't care which option you choose. Rates are low, it wont change the payment enough to frontload anything at all. But, your viewer could loose rebates that are not stackable with the 0%.
That's precious. If I walked into ANY dealer I've ever bought a car from and ask to see their "invoice" they would look at me, laugh, and show me the door.
Why would you ask for invoice anyways, y'all don't believe businesses should make a profit just like the employer y'all working for? If you paying thousands less than msrp, then you got a good deal
Kevin, another great and incredibly informative video; clear, concise and straight to the point! You're not like other videos out there that are say 10-15 minutes long with only 3-4 minutes of actual information and the rest is filler. I'm not currently in the market for a vehicle but I still enjoy your videos so I can be fully prepared and informed when the time comes to get a fair deal
I come from the UK. My father in law worked in one of the factories of British Leyland/Rover/Jaguar/Land Rover. If he, or a relative, wanted a new car he was entitled to two cars a year at a discount of 23% off the MSRP, that included anything from a Mini to a Range Rover - I once had the discount "voucher" to buy a Mini. Further, the brother of a good friend worked for a Volvo dealership where their discount deal for employees was 45% - said friend had his brother buy him a Volvo estate and he received the 45% discount.
I worked at 3 dealerships selling cars in the past. A couple things you left out. The dealer needs to pay the mechanic for the safety inspection and the dealer needs to pay the detail guy to clean and prep the car. In many cases that is shown as a Doc fee or some other dealer added charge. Anything $500 or less is average but seen some raising that to $800. Because you never know what these deals are and how much they want to sell you that car a bottom price is never known. What I do is Shop my trade-in first. Get the best deal I can on my trade from various places. Used car dealers sometimes will give you more cause they have profit on the car they want to sell you. Get a copy of the trade in value and hold that for leverage later. Shop over the phone and through the internet, get the best price you can. Then go in, get a LOWER sell price, get the trade in value. If it looks close, pull out your printed trade in value, they will meet it. When you got as low as you can, start to leave. Get your keys (yes they hold your car keys with the manager for a reason) and leave. Wait for a phone call 3 days later. that is your best price
The dealer gets a PDI fee from the manufacturer to cover the pre delivery inspection. It includes clean up, inspection, and a tank of gas. The dealer fee is just additional markup.
Hey Kevin I worked at dealers all my life and I remember years ago when the new vehicles arrived the person checking them in grabbed up the factory invoice and no one was ever allowed to see them. I doubt the "invoice" the dealer is willing to give to the customer is the real thing.
It is possible and honest dealers will show it to you. I do what Kevin mentioned in this video. It truly works. I help all friends and family get the best prices for their vehicles, new or used. It's all about knowledge/information.
@@LeroyBraun For sure. When I buy a new vehicle I take the sticker price and deduct 20-25% then add in sales tax. I make this offer as an out the door price, no additional charges of any sort, i.e. destination, title, ext warranty, nothing. I always buy on the last 1-3 days of the month and preferably near the end of the model year. I just bought a 2020 F150 in Oct that stickered for just under $55,000 and paid $47,000 out the door. Considering sales tax that was about 20% off sticker but I paid that much for it since they searched and found exactly what I wanted.
@@johntatman9168 but you had to do this near the end of the year in 2020? I'm currently looking because I think Toyota will have their red tag deals going on clearing inventory and enticing folks to 2021 models. Wish I could say I could hold out until December but I'm not sure if I can or want to. My car has been put through the ringer and it really only works well as transportation, nothing else. Slid on ice a month back, trunk won't even close anymore, stereo hasn't worked for like 2+ years, I don't want to invest any money into it at this point. It's an 04 sunfire, 200 thousand km but I'm looking at a 2021 rav, hard to find 2020 anymore in the trim I'd prefer. I'm thinking ideally it should last me well over a decade with little to no maintenance besides oil changes. My smarter option is to just get another car but I don't want one, I'd be more comfortable in a suv. I see hyundai has an incentive where I could get 500 off just because my dad and sister both have them but I don't trust the build quality as much. However, I could get a top of the line Tuscon or middle Santa Fe for what I'd get on a middle rav. Hard choice, I'll test some tomorrow. My brain is saying go with the cheapest but my gut is saying go with the rav. Listed at 37k with a "1k discount" so I'm not sure they'll budge. From what I gather in the comments Toyota dealers have sticks up their asses, but could be different in Canada. Not likely, but hopefully.
When I was selling back in the 80's new cars were manufacture wholesale cost, plus government tax plus dealers profit margin. So its was something like this, $20000mwp + $2000GST (10%) + $2000 dealer margin (10%) = $24000RRP, where as for a used car, its Dealer cost = $10000 + retainer for warranty = $600-$1000 depends on dealer + Dealers mark up= $3000-$5000 the high mark up gives the dealer to discount the price or to give a higher trade in valuation above true wholesale price.
The last few minutes of this video answered my prayers ILL WAIT FOR YOU KEVIN, and THANK YOU, I wish you much success in helping people buy cars without having to take medication 😆😆
As someone who manages the business office for multiple dealerships I can tell you this guy understands half of it. He is knowledgeable as far as how to read the invoice and rebates.
In Finland was one car dealer who sell something to any customer who walked in the yard. Except couple of them who escaped by swimming. Shop was next the river and that section wasn`t fenced. Big mistake.
Great information Kevin, that’s why I don’t like dealing with dealers, they lie and never tell the truth, plus the inevitable multiple times of “let me go ask my manager”. And that’s not to mention all my time they waste!
So very wise. I had a touring caravan dealership for 42 years and my policy was the best deal for the customer and our Company. This involved the best after care possible as well. We made so many loyal customers, stopped advertising 30 years ago and had 40 very happy years. Money was never our intention, just to look after people.
I made an offer to a dealer on a semi trailer, he literally yelled no to me and walked away like in disgust like I slept with daughter. Next week went back, made the same offer to his son, he took it. Met with both for the signing of paperwork, they were both happy as can be
@@acemoore7204 So in the middle of pandemic you want a crowded dealership of people arguing about $1200 profit on a Nissan or Toyota? If I was the salesman I would run away. Just stay away from the dealership and buy a peice of shit Chrysler 200 off Craigslist.
Thanks, Kevin - great videos. Question I've always wondered about - which is even more true in these days of COVID where dealers are more constrained. Why can't customers just say 'based on my research, here's what I'm willing to pay?' That's what happens in open markets where bartering is the rule. If they can't do it, fine, move on. I just sent a proposal to a dealer (that's been hounding me) several states away. Thanks
Thanks so much Kevin for all your help! Just bought a brand new 2019 Kia Optima LX that I got for under 18K! It needed to go and had to be deeply discounted because it was a last years model and no one wanted the pearl white metallic. I followed your steps and got the deal of a lifetime! Thanks so much and stay safe to you and your family! Much appreciation & Respect, -Gregory
After spending 45 years in Auto/Heavy Truck/Equipment manufacturing when I go in to the car dealer locally and they know me well all they tell show me is the cars with the best dealer net net invoicing. I normally pick up very nice new one year model year back to add in depreciation deductions I get off the actual manufacturer in the floor plan. You are in the 60% or less of stricker.
If You walk into a Car Dealer & Think for one second that there not out to Burn your ass, You have a lot to learn! Around here they stick you now with Documentation Fee Usually 4--5--6--700 dollars! For filing out the papers to sell you the car!!! And then they want you to give them yours and Buy there's!
Holdback? You want the holdback too? This ain’t a charity brother and if $750 bucks in holdback is the difference between you being able to afford the car or not then you need a cheaper car. Special Offers? Like what? I’m genuinely not sure what you mean here but if you will elaborate I’ll try to give you my advice on it.
Another note at end of the month. Check out the sales board frequently visible in the showroom. You can see how the dealership and your sales person is doing and look for motivations.
Sadly that is something that someone decided to ADD 0N because they could. I often like it to the same thing airlines do with LUGGAGE FEES. There is no reason other than they found a new way to screw you. Have you ever looked at your cellphone bill closely? There are about 9 different taxes on it. Why.......because they can. Who can stop it
Documentary fees, depending on state, are illegal. In Georgia, for instance, the only thing dealers can add to the advertised price are tax/tag/title and lemon law fee for new cars (not used). If they try to tack on anything else they're just shafting you, it's time to walk. For Georgia: consumer.georgia.gov/auto-informer-newsletters (issues 12-14. 12 is important to read). In some states you can look up the tax on each particular vehicle using the vin (included in the listing somewhere), and the other fees like title, tag, and lemon law fees. With those in hand you can look at the advertised price and know exactly what the drive out is before stepping onto the lot. As soon as they mis-quote that total (and they will, every time) you can point out the law. if they refuse to budge, WALK. Then file a complaint with the BBB, state consumer protection bureau, and the manufacturer... and the media, if you can get them to pay attention (they seldom do).
I don’t understand why people think that just because they know what the cost or other perks the dealers get as profit, they must give it up. How would you like to sell a product or provide a service with no profit?
This is good advice. I would also mention you should not talk about your trade in vehicle until you finalize the new car price. Don’t bring an excited wife with you to negotiate. Don’t deal in monthly payments to determine the selling price, negotiate the for sale price not what your payments are going to be.
Kevin, I have been buying new cars for fifty years. On the average every five to six years. (I like new vehicles) After watching all your videos I hate to think about how many times I was bent over with BS fees etc. I'm in the process of buying a new truck, in December and at the end of the month, and I have been to four dealerships in my area. Interesting experiences at each with different personalities coming into play. Thanks to your videos I feel that I am now on a level playing field. All I every want is a fair deal that I can feel good about when I am sitting in the vehicle thinking about how well I did once the ink is dry.
That's why they're always full lol. Mostly it's people who live for the moment and don't pay cash. Old people do this all the time yet criticise the younger generation for the same thing for different material
Wishful thinking but the opposite is happening. They are selling cars like crazy because everyone took their corona check and bought a new car with it.
First off the best way to sort this out I think is find out what they would pay you for a new one that is a couple months old ! With that price it will include all discounts and a bit of depreciation! Then it doesn’t matter what discounts you might miss when buying brand new ! Because they know for sure at this point And asking what cars they have in stock you can get the best price on will be stuff that’s hard to probably move ! They hardly ever move a car that’s known for being popular and reliable for big discounts!
I wish I knew all this stuff before my 1st time. I got completely ripped off with a 2011 Mini Cooper a couple years ago. A lot happened but here's an attempted short version: My bank gave me a check for an approved amount to use, but they tried super dang hard to get me to finance through them. They charged a fee for using a bank check instead of their financing. Sticker price was $7,777 but after all the paper work it was $12,000. After driving the car home I tried to restart it but it started hiccuping. Dealer said Mini coopers need to cool off first for 10min before it starts again, in which it did. Found out for a Mini dealership that was a lie! Cost me almost $5,000 in repairs for various issues. Even the key fob stop working! Thank God for the warranty I put on. I ended up crying to the warranty company for help and they bent rules just to help me. The dealership gave me temp tags for 6 months and never sent the car title to my bank. I reported them and they ended up getting shut down by the DMV. They screwed a lot of people. Long story short I'M DUUUUMB!!
Interesting video and educational, however I learned through the years the fallowing: - if you buy a car from a dealer considered yourself “screwed” automatically - if the dealer don’t make enough profits out of your “purchase” you ain’t going to get your dream car ! -... of course is not the same have been screwed up with a couple of thousand rather than five or ten thousand !!!
Dave S. You are right, the best thing I've learned about buying a car is go to a bank if you got good credit and apply for a good low interest rate loan. The banks will let you know what amount you qualify for, this way here when you go to a dealership you've got the upper hand you've already got the financing in the amount you want to spend on a vehicle.
@@jmackinjersey1 Why would you pay more than what the car is worth. Dealers do that all the time "well how much can you afford a month?" Question. I say its not about monthly payments which I can swing anyway, i dont wanna pay 50k on a 40k truck.
@@jmackinjersey1 well... thats when you say... "that sounds like a great monthly payment for that amount of money.... id like to sign up for that because it seems the bank is losing money...." google says the payment is this much... and we know Google don't lie. Oh you trust Alexa...
You are amazing! I wish I could take you with me on my next vehicle purchase. Really appreciate all this helpful information Enjoy your time with your three little munchkins. ☺
For many years I used Consumer Reports, which would, for a small fee, provide you with a printout showing dealer cost and sticker price for the car and all the options. CR used to advise that about the best deal that you will get is 4-6% above dealer cost, and that less than that makes it not worth the dealer's effort to sell you the car. I have found that usually I can get the price down into that range and while I may not have gotten the very best price, I still ended up with a fair and good price. Dealers that will not negotiate, who merely push a note across the desk and say "this is my best price" get me to walk out the door and try another dealership. Sometimes I have said "what is your bottom line price? You get one shot and then I either buy or walk". Trying that with multiple dealers ended up with me getting a very good price in the end. But you always have to be willing to walk.
Great video and excellent presentation! I've been to dealerships that tried to tell me the MSRP on the window is what the dealership paid for the vehicle. I just shook my head and walked out the door with the salesman trying to get me to come back to the showroom.
If your not to picky about the vehicle wait to buy in February when the manufacturer wholesales the new left over inventory from the previous year. I purchased a new GMC 2500HD 4x4 @ a 23% discount from MSRP at the dealership, again last years model but brand new.
@j mcmann that is because they know that they make more money on home loans than on car loans, buy a car, the dealers makes the money on selling you a loan and most people dont even know that the dealership gets a cut of the interest, but the banks make the money on the house.
@j mcmann and the real money that the dealership makes is on the service, i took my new 2019 camry in for the 15000 mile service 4 weeks ago here in North Carolina and did that so i could get it taken care of in case the virus spread got worse and the car has less than 14000 miles on it. when i was checking in for service, they had the mechanics washing down the inside of the car for sanitizing and then the mechanic and the service writer told me my tires look like they are wearing strange and uneven and that i needed to get a front end alignment and they were showing me why i needed it and i already knew they were full of shit and i said oh really, and i told them that ill pass on it and then the mechanic went on his way and the service writer told me that if i dont do whats recomended, that it would void the life time warranty that the dealership offers and also the extended warranty could refuse to pay future repairs, i told him that is why i cancelled the extended warranty 3 days after i purchased it and got it applied to my principle, but, i just paid off the card 3 weeks ago and got the title this week. when i finsh the free 25000 mile service that the manufacturer offers, im done taking it to them, ill do the oil service myself, everybody here knows a brand new car dont need no dam alignment, it goes straight down the road and dont even pull to either side of the road and goes straight, they tried that crap on me wanting me to replace my rack and pinion on my 2011 camry and they wanted $2200 for that. i told the service writer that i know that she is on commision and the mechanic and i know whats happening, that mechanic is so deep in debt to that snap on tool truck for the tool box and the tools, he got to shaft people to pay for it.
Yup. Bought a new car summer 2016 because I’ve always wanted a brand new car with the plastic wrap all over the interior. Now that I know how much they depreciate, will buy something that is 2-4 years old going forward
They depreciate so quickly because they aren't worth what you're actually paying. I think another way to ballpark price a new car is to take a very slightly used car's value and calculate in wear and tear. All the money that a brand new car depreciates went right into the dealer's pocket.
Who cares if the car smells like puke? Lease cars. Those big SUV's always do. Gross. Puke, shit, bad milk. You name it. Don't buy a leased car. They smell.
Incentives are another pet peeve of mine the dealers advertise with all the incentives then you go in an find out most of the incentives don't apply to you unless you happen to be a one legged world war one veteran working as a realtor and holding a conquest lease living in the correct metropolitan zip code.
And it also instantly becomes a used car. My parents slogan under the Fabbi Auto Wrecking sign was "Everybody drives on used". This cheesed off a lot of "new" car owners.
Depreciation on value as far as inventory is when it comes off the assembly line. But that is for tax values to the manufacturer and is wrapped up in the floor plan deals given dealers and the finished inventory. I spent years involved in this.
Back in the 80s one of my teachers bought a brand new S10 pickup. Was undecided between the green one or the red one (otherwise identical). Got the green one. Drove off the lot into the turn lane for a major 4-way intersection. Sales guy and manager were catching a smoke at the corner of the lot and waved at him. Suuuucker! Huge 1980s detroit steel monster took their right turn wide while speeding and plowed into his brand new truck, shoving it into a delivery truck behind it. Pretty much folded his brand new truck in half. Once the cops were done arresting the uninsured, unlicensed, inebriated driver my teacher slunk back to the dealership to ask if he could get his trade in back... Salesman gave him an odd look and handed him a pen and some keys - to the RED truck. Apparently, after witnessing the accident 20 seconds after he left the lot, they sent all of his paperwork through the shredder and drew up the same paperwork on the red truck. The green one they wrote off as a 'test drive accident'... Needless to say, they earned a customer for life that day.
When I worked for a Honda dealership years ago, we could tell how much the dealer paid for parts just by looking at a set of lines on the parts label. Everything was printed out in black and white if you knew how to read it.
Kevin, thank you for all your valuable advice! What is a fair profit formula I can calculate for a dealership to make on a purchase? Thank you so much for your response.
I was looking at a new Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro a couple weeks ago. MSRP $43,600. On the Addendum Sticker: "Special Dealer Package" (2 inch lift/leveling kit, 33" tires and wheels) $4,600. "Local Market Adjustment" $5,000. Delivery Charge: $800. Total Price: $54,000. When a salesman started to walk over, I waved him off, laughed, and walked out.
That was the first question I asked the salesman and I always got a confused, caught off guard look from him. They would stumble and mumble and then I'd get the "I would have to ask the manager " bullshit. I knew they wouldn't tell me I just used to like to watch them squirm.
I have been buying Chrysler, Dodge, Ram and Jeep vehicles since 1982, 17 to be precise, plus 7 that my daughters and grand kids have bought, I have never had a coupon from the manufacturer.
Cant get a dealer to move of the "No Haggle Price". This particular vehicle is used, been there for almost an entire year, but they refuse to negotiate. What gives?
Just a PSA....we already know about your coupons. They're typically referred to as private offers. We get a list at the beginning of every month with previous buyers that have them. They usually make the new guys cold call the whole list. They also pop up when we go to pull rebates for an individual customer.
Great video. This is the only online video I have watched that is 100% accurate. I had a close friend that owned a major dealership and you are on the money with this info.......🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I worked for GM Assembly back in the early 70's. It cost the plant $600.00 a minute to operate. (material, labor and power) We produced 1 Vehicle every 59 seconds. The vehicle was driven to the shipping yard where the price was doubled ($1,200) and moved to a distribution yard in any given state where it sat until that vehicles description was called for by a dealer. The more units the dealer sold the less they paid for a unit (called incentives, like an extra 2%) I never buy a brand new vehicle. Two years old with low miles is the best choice (2019 with 10,000 miles)
I was a salesmen for 3 months ( I sold only 1 car ) was fired, but did take their $600 class which told me their tricks and mark up price. All new cars are marked up $3000 and used cars are marked up $3000 - $ 6000 in 1996. So you can imagine how much they have gone up these days.
Why would a dealer give you their invoice? It's like walking into Macy's and asking them what's their cost on product they sell. They or any other business dont give out their cost info
There are 3 invoices for every vehicle. 1) MSRP price. 2) Invoice price they may share and you can detail on any manufacturer site and 3) The true invoice which is kept in glove box on delivery to dealer. Many dealers are very secretive about this and will go to extreme lengths to avoid discovery. This true dealer invoice price does not include hold backs and dealer cash or coupons.
Thanks for the info. Please consider covering used car pricing. I’m finding it difficult to negotiate a fair deal. I believe dealer should make a profit but I’m seeing 20% markup between trade and sale prices. Maybe show a few vehicles in car gurus and show us how your would work a deal. Thanks again I’m learning a lot but unlike new cars used car pricing is the wild Wild West.
Yeah used cars sales is where I fall flat on. There's just so many more incentives you can take advantage of with a new car that you can't do with a used car. I often times stick to KBB value and hope it's within that range. That site though is shady in itself since it is in the used car business.
As an older person, (not that old) It’s hard for me to remember everything said, so hoping to remember enough to get fair deal as I’m looking for a new truck for towing. But, did learn one great thing, that is when to walk away! Thanks.
@Kevin Hunter I recently decided to get a new used CPO 2018 Prius C with less than 7,000 miles. After watching a few of your videos I feel like i was played just a bit in the finance portion. I have not taken delivery of the car yet due to the car having a bad battery so waiting for a new battery on back order due to covid-19 going around the world but I did sign off on all paperwork given to me. My first payment is not due for 90 days and they have yet to pay off my current loan for my current car. I have a trade in with negative equity but since I have not taken the new car yet I still have my car.They only gave me $3,000 for my trade in giving me a $4,172.00 negative equity. They did get the new car sale price of $17,699.00. They got me with a 3.29% for 72 months and a total finance amount of about $25,813.90. I initially came in with a pre-approved amount of $20k at 3.49% for 60 months. I do have a few extras on the deal like gap for $1,050 and a small warranty called ecoblockandkey for an amount of $895. Is there anything I can realistically do to get a better/fairer deal?
Yes, there is a TON you can do for a better and fairer deal. You have great timing. I have a CPO video coming out at 5am tomorrow morning. I think you'll want to see that. Without a doubt, you paid more for your car (because it's a CPO) than you would have for a good used car. I wouldn't have done that. I have a number of questions. With all the economic worries currently facing this country, why would you go out and take a chance on making your financial situation even worse? Trading off a car with $4,172 in negative equity... whoa, double ouch! You could sell your own vehicle outright and likely recover most or all of that money. Why wouldn't you do that first? That kind of money is like GOLD to people right now. And then... you're buying a CPO, so why do you buy a $895 EcoBlockandKey warranty? You're getting hosed on the trade, hosed on the car, hosed on warranties you don't need, and then blasted with a $1,050 GAP policy. Here's the good news: You haven't taken delivery on the car... it means you can walk away from this deal right now, and I'm suggesting you do exactly that. I'd rewind the whole scenario, and start completely over. Your next first step: Can you give me the details on your car? Year, miles, trim level, approximate condition of the vehicle, including the zipcode you live in. I'd be happy to help you establish a proper value for it. Tag me on your response, or email to info@thehomeworkguy.com
@@KevinHunter Thank you so much for responding and your feedback. I thought because of the situation I could get a decent deal because the sales department was shutting down indefinitely due to the restrictions in California. My current car is a 2014 Mini Cooper hardtop base model with 1.5L 3 cyl turbo engine with 80,100 miles on it. Zip code 91746. I wanted to trade it in since I feel the car is going to conk out on me since other little things were going out like the moonroof, fog lights, chrome trim pieces, and transmission is riding rough already. Plus the car did break down on me leaving me stranded late last year which costed me $1,200. To add, this is the only car for my family since my mother car was totaled by my father midyear last year. Since my mother has been driving it these last few months the current condition of the car I would say is fair. Nothing major is wrong and it goes down the road fine. How do I walk away from the deal right now when that dealers sales department is closed and all paperwork has been signed for? I did initially went to a Honda dealer the day before and they offered $4,000 for my trade in and when I went told Toyota they initially said they would give me $4,200 for my trade in but when I went to financing they gave me a BS reasoning to why they could not give me that initial trade in value. I know now that I should have gotten in writing and I was initially trying to discuss sale price of vehicle but they detracted me towards negotiating monthly payment.
With similar miles, there are Mini Coopers for sale in your area for $8,000. Some are over $13,000... well equipped, great shape. You could likely private party (sell) your car for $6,500-$7,000. Start it at $7,000, or $7,500. In any event, don't saddle yourself with that negative equity. It's such a bad idea. You have email, phone numbers, etc to contact the dealership. Use both methods, and inform them you are tearing up the deal and walking. Your signature on papers for a car you haven't taken delivery on (and you still have your own car) means nothing. A contract is only a contract after you've done everything that's happened so far..... AND you drive your new car home. THEN, and only then, you have a car contract. Contact the dealership and let them know you're making better financial choices for yourself, and you're going to rewind this whole thing. Perhaps you choose a different path than what I'm suggesting, but this is exactly what I'd advise any person asking the same question.
@@KevinHunter Thank you so much Kevin for saving me from making a terrible financial decision! I have contacted my bank to not accept the dealership check when it comes in. I have also tried contacting the dealer through email and by leaving a message on the phone. I do not know if anyone will get it because the sales department of dealership is closed due to covid-19 but I am going to walk away from this terrible deal. I will continue to contact dealer and Toyota financing to tear up this terrible deal. Thank you again! Just one more question. In the event they try to tell me it is not possible to get out of deal for whatever reason or try to charge me for walking away from the deal who do I go to/talk to to get out of deal?
Learned long ago ordering the last Grand National, that invoices are different per dealer, which always puzzled me because I ordered directly from the dealers cost sheet. I learned even with same options & cost, another dealer was still able to cut the price. It gets overwhelming with all the layers. That was a customer ordered Buick. Thanks, hope I know enough for my next purchase.
The best cars are the ones you'll find for sale by senior citizens, usually one owner cars they've had for years and have usually been well taken care of, we used to cruise the senior parks and neighborhoods looking for cars for sale, some being sold just because someone passed away, dealers may not want cash, but it's king on private sales, especially in times of recession.
@AL CAPPS WRONG! You would have to be a gazillionaire to buy car's that sell from mid 20S to mid 60s, 70s thousands of dollars. On top of that, it's just not like it used to be.
Consignment implies the dealer has no financial stake until the vehicle is sold. Most dealers are "floor planned financed" and the dealer is financing possession of the vehicle
Also; since dealers don’t have to pay for electricity, phones, rent employee benefits, licenses or anything else, everyone should pay dealer cost for their cars. The last time I went to a restaurant, I asked to see the invoice on the steak I ordered so I didn’t get ripped off. After all, no restaurant should make a fair profit on the food they sell.
As a former dealer mgr, I can tell you everybody negotiates incorrectly. Everybody want to negotiate a "discount", when the best way to get your best deal is to offer "X" amount OVER invoice. This forces the dealer to produce a copy of the invoice to confirm your pricing. If they refuse to show invoice..........walk away
@@tmackie1694 As a rule, I would start with $400, but, select a "ceiling" offer you're willing to live with, ie, $600 over invoice ahead of time. Another point, if you're willing to wait about 8-10 weeks, place a factory order and in this instance, $100 over invoice is the marker. Another point, on the window sticker will be a date the dealer received the car......the dealer will have more incentive to give you what you want for the "older" vehicle....this is because almost all dealers don't "own" their cars, they're being financed and they pay interest while that car sits there and collects dust. Look for a car that's been there at least 90 days. As a rule, most cars only have a profit of 9%-10% of window sticker, so don't be expecting "tons" of money for a discount. Remember, every $$ you save is less registration fees and sales tax $$ paid. Hope this helps
@@tedhursh9058 thank you very much for your reply and further insight, I really appreciate it. My situation is two wks ago I visited the local Ford dealer to test drive the Bronco Sport. They had no cars to sell, only two demo models, neither of which they were willing to discuss sale of. They have three cars being delivered in August, so I put down a fully-refundable deposit on one. No negotiations have yet taken place. I noticed one of the demos that next to the Monroney (MSRP $34,745), there was a second “official”-looking sticker that said “Markup $6,995” !?!? With this in mind, I anticipate that when I start negotiations with “X over invoice”, my offer will be rejected. I anticipate the very real possibility that I might have to walk away simply because of demand. I fear the dealer will be happy to let me walk away with confidence someone else will come along shortly and pay much more. This situation is exacerbated by the fact that I live in a very geographically isolated location with no competing local dealers. I cannot drive to the next dealer. I would have to negotiate & buy via email/phone, then ship via sea. Quite possibly a situation that sees me with the least leverage of any buyer in the country 😞 Any further thoughts? Thanks again. #thehomeworkguy
Some Car Dealerships also do this, hiring Young and Sexy Girls, and Male Models to distract some of us. I KNEW of some Young Women went to Dealers just to check out the handsome men there 😉
Negotiations are essential if you want a great deal! That said do your homework, try to deal near the end of the month, finding the most popular vehicle discounts are difficult but not impossible. Be ready to just walk away, expect a call from the dealership shortly. Use your brain, be aware of fraudulent offers. Lastly Good luck with your search and purchase.
I fear, though, that in the current seller’s market, if you get up and walk away, the dealer will never call because someone else will buy the car in the same week… 🤷🏼♀️
Thanks for your channel video. I learn a lot before buying cars. God Bless you and your channel helping people not to get ripped off by most car dealer, salesman
Nice Information... but none of it applies to any Toyota dealers with whom I have visited. Not only will they demand the list price....they add 1,000s of dollars for paint finish and other mysterious charges. Toyota dealers have been doing this for over 40yrs. By taping a little piece of paper on the window plus the factory sticker. I never purchased a Toyota since I refuse to pay the sucker.
KEVIN, REALLY ENJOYED YOUR PRESENTATION. AS A MATTER OF FACT I'M GOING TO FIX A CUP OF COFFEE AND WATCH IT AGAIN. WHAT AREA OF THE COUNTRY ARE YOU IN. I SURE WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU MORE QUESTIONS. HAVE YOU EVER THOUGHT OF DOING SEMINARS?? Cordially, Chuck📖🛫🛬
I knew a guy who worked for an independent leasing agent. He had access to a book they called "The Bible." In it was the price that every dealer paid for every new car in America. What I saw on average was a difference of over four thousand dollars between the MSRP and the actual price paid. I also saw that the more fun or popular the car was the difference was over five thousand.
Thirty years ago when I sold cars for Chrysler, used cars had roughly 50% more markup when sold. And if you get that new car serviced regularly at the dealership, they’ll make more off of you there then when the car sells. Parts are always more expensive at the dealership than when I get work done at the independent garage. Even misc. items such as lug nuts, filters and engine oil are more expensive there then at a department store.
Pretty good video, glad he explained the cost of the vehicle.only if he could teach people to shop for cars... The best line is " I know it when I see it"... they typically means you know nothing about what your shopping for. You will probably shop price and looks feeling like the sales men might screw them and typically they just end up screwing them selfs. Plz stop buying kai Hyundai or Mitsubishi Chevy.
Hey love the video as! I followed your advice and got a 2019 F-150 $1600 below invoice and got them to throw in $1100 of accessories, which was a level kit and spray-in bed liner. I paid a $300 doc fee and that was it. MSRP 56500, invoice 50100, paid price 41500. Used my own financing. How did I do?
Will be shopping for my first car sometime in the future. Just wanted to express thanks, as I do as much homework as I can before my car buying experience.
I always work off invoice price. The first person I speak with when I walk on a car lot, I tell them I generally pay $200 to $300 over invoice. Is that a problem here? And I shut up. And when we sit down they show me the invoice or I walk. I also only buy from the sales manager who has to move many cars each month to get his bonus. Never the next salesman up in rotation. Car buying can be an emotional purchase = they win. Do your homework. Have your own prequalified financing. Show up as an educated buyer.
I bought a new F-150 this weekend. I went to a small town dealer that was advertising a truck that was in the ballpark of the price I was looking for. I followed your advice and asked for the Invoice sheet. The salesman said she had never had a customer ask her for that before, but gave me a copy. I told her that my wife and I were going to get some lunch and crunch some numbers and get right back to her. On the sheet I saw the "HB" code with "1062" so I made an offer at the invoice price.Of course she had to talk to her manager, and they rejected the offer, and countered, with $1000 above Invoice. They countered with an offer slightly above my latest offer, but well below the price I had in my head as the max I was willing to spend. So bargaining up from Invoice rather than down from MSRP paid off. THANKS
Mr Hunter , after watching your video, I did go car shopping, asked a few questions, the salesman ended up accusing me that i was from another dealership, was not interested in selling, chevy dealer. Ended up buying a Ford..Very happy
That's quite funny. A well informed customer sounds like an employee from another dealership. Well, that tells you something, doesn't it? The salesman immediately recognizes that you know your stuff, so much so that he thinks you work for another dealer. That's an awesome confirmation that the content we put out is right on the money!
I worked for Ford, Toyota, Lincoln, and Saturn for a total of 12 1/2 years and never knew half of what he
has given us here today. Thank you for giving this invaluable knowledge to us for buying a new vehicle. Thumbs up!!
Lol you must not have sold many cars 😂
Bought a new car when I was in my mid twenties years ago. Got totally ripped off. They saw me coming a mile away. Have never bought a new car again. Always used cars about two to three years old. This is where you will find the best deals.
I did the same thing when I got my first real job and paycheck..bought a brand new truck..after 250k miles i had to get another one..this time it was less then 2 yrs old..with 50k.miles..has 255k now..I'm just gona squeeze another 100k more if i can...i dont want no more payments..esp on these 30 m 40 grand trucks now
DEALERS DONT SELL YOU A CAR, THEY SELL YOU A PAYMENT.
Not if you buy cash!!!!
@@Retiredmco That's a payment
@@rydfree 1 time only! ROFDLMAO
Scott Carlon for sure when you walk in and say “I have cash” it’s like you don’t even exist lol. Used to be a great tool, now if they can’t make 15k additional in interest, they don’t even care.
No Shiite. They are basically selling you a mortgage to pay for inflated pricing. Except the vehicle purchased Loses value instead of gains value. It's a lose lose proposition for the buyer.
Rule #1 depreciation starts when you sign the contract, because @ that point it is called a USED CAR. Thx. for the great videos Kevin.
The first version of this video had a couple mistakes I wanted fixed, so we got it changed.. and here's the corrected version! Hope you all enjoy what me and my team are trying to do for you! Best of luck to all of you car shoppers out there!
Kevin Hunter what would be the downside of getting a five year loan if I’m being offered 0% percent interest? I can make payments as if it’s a 3 or 4 year loan, but they’ll only offer 2.9% on those? Are they doing 0% because they’re trying to rip me off somehow? Thanks.
No problem taking the five year loan, and then paying it down faster than the payments call for. Just watch the fine print on the loan document and make sure they are packing other products or fees in there on you.
@@eddiesvideos2012 You can choose the 0% but often times you will loose a few thousand $ in rebates. Usually the loss of rebates is far greater than the finance charge that you will pay on say a 3.00% loan. But, sometimes I have seen the 0% and all the rebates available together. The manufacturer sets the rebates and incentives, not the dealer. Please look at your offer both ways.
@@KevinHunter It's not packing you have to worry about. The dealer doesn't care which option you choose. Rates are low, it wont change the payment enough to frontload anything at all. But, your viewer could loose rebates that are not stackable with the 0%.
Thanks for clarifying. I was confused because I could have sworn I saw your excellent video previously. Btw, excellent 2nd video!
That's precious. If I walked into ANY dealer I've ever bought a car from and ask to see their "invoice" they would look at me, laugh, and show me the door.
You don't have to ask them for the invoice. You can find out most information online, it just takes time to do the research.
Why would you ask for invoice anyways, y'all don't believe businesses should make a profit just like the employer y'all working for? If you paying thousands less than msrp, then you got a good deal
Yea no kidding
Kevin, another great and incredibly informative video; clear, concise and straight to the point! You're not like other videos out there that are say 10-15 minutes long with only 3-4 minutes of actual information and the rest is filler. I'm not currently in the market for a vehicle but I still enjoy your videos so I can be fully prepared and informed when the time comes to get a fair deal
i agree, i appreciate this video because it's short and full of facts. other videos on the internet are full of bullshit filler and way too long.
Thanks for the 'dealer invoice price' tip, I would never have thought to ask about that and instead would have focused on the MSRP.
"Employee pricing" have you seen how they treat their employee's?
I come from the UK. My father in law worked in one of the factories of British Leyland/Rover/Jaguar/Land Rover. If he, or a relative, wanted a new car he was entitled to two cars a year at a discount of 23% off the MSRP, that included anything from a Mini to a Range Rover - I once had the discount "voucher" to buy a Mini. Further, the brother of a good friend worked for a Volvo dealership where their discount deal for employees was 45% - said friend had his brother buy him a Volvo estate and he received the 45% discount.
I really am happy I was able to find you during my car shopping. Thanks again for all the help your are providing.
I worked at 3 dealerships selling cars in the past. A couple things you left out. The dealer needs to pay the mechanic for the safety inspection and the dealer needs to pay the detail guy to clean and prep the car. In many cases that is shown as a Doc fee or some other dealer added charge. Anything $500 or less is average but seen some raising that to $800.
Because you never know what these deals are and how much they want to sell you that car a bottom price is never known.
What I do is Shop my trade-in first. Get the best deal I can on my trade from various places. Used car dealers sometimes will give you more cause they have profit on the car they want to sell you. Get a copy of the trade in value and hold that for leverage later.
Shop over the phone and through the internet, get the best price you can.
Then go in, get a LOWER sell price, get the trade in value. If it looks close, pull out your printed trade in value, they will meet it.
When you got as low as you can, start to leave. Get your keys (yes they hold your car keys with the manager for a reason) and leave.
Wait for a phone call 3 days later.
that is your best price
The dealer gets a PDI fee from the manufacturer to cover the pre delivery inspection. It includes clean up, inspection, and a tank of gas. The dealer fee is just additional markup.
Hey Kevin I worked at dealers all my life and I remember years ago when the new vehicles arrived the person checking them in grabbed up the factory invoice and no one was ever allowed to see them. I doubt the "invoice" the dealer is willing to give to the customer is the real thing.
It is possible and honest dealers will show it to you. I do what Kevin mentioned in this video. It truly works. I help all friends and family get the best prices for their vehicles, new or used. It's all about knowledge/information.
@@usersetupsacct2751 -
Dealers and manufacturers can be tricky, a "wholesale" cost won't reflect rebates sent to dealers.
@@LeroyBraun For sure. When I buy a new vehicle I take the sticker price and deduct 20-25% then add in sales tax. I make this offer as an out the door price, no additional charges of any sort, i.e. destination, title, ext warranty, nothing. I always buy on the last 1-3 days of the month and preferably near the end of the model year. I just bought a 2020 F150 in Oct that stickered for just under $55,000 and paid $47,000 out the door. Considering sales tax that was about 20% off sticker but I paid that much for it since they searched and found exactly what I wanted.
@@johntatman9168 but you had to do this near the end of the year in 2020? I'm currently looking because I think Toyota will have their red tag deals going on clearing inventory and enticing folks to 2021 models. Wish I could say I could hold out until December but I'm not sure if I can or want to. My car has been put through the ringer and it really only works well as transportation, nothing else. Slid on ice a month back, trunk won't even close anymore, stereo hasn't worked for like 2+ years, I don't want to invest any money into it at this point. It's an 04 sunfire, 200 thousand km but I'm looking at a 2021 rav, hard to find 2020 anymore in the trim I'd prefer. I'm thinking ideally it should last me well over a decade with little to no maintenance besides oil changes. My smarter option is to just get another car but I don't want one, I'd be more comfortable in a suv. I see hyundai has an incentive where I could get 500 off just because my dad and sister both have them but I don't trust the build quality as much. However, I could get a top of the line Tuscon or middle Santa Fe for what I'd get on a middle rav. Hard choice, I'll test some tomorrow. My brain is saying go with the cheapest but my gut is saying go with the rav. Listed at 37k with a "1k discount" so I'm not sure they'll budge. From what I gather in the comments Toyota dealers have sticks up their asses, but could be different in Canada. Not likely, but hopefully.
When I was selling back in the 80's new cars were manufacture wholesale cost, plus government tax plus dealers profit margin. So its was something like this, $20000mwp + $2000GST (10%) + $2000 dealer margin (10%) = $24000RRP, where as for a used car, its Dealer cost = $10000 + retainer for warranty = $600-$1000 depends on dealer + Dealers mark up= $3000-$5000 the high mark up gives the dealer to discount the price or to give a higher trade in valuation above true wholesale price.
The last few minutes of this video answered my prayers ILL WAIT FOR YOU KEVIN, and THANK YOU, I wish you much success in helping people buy cars without having to take medication 😆😆
As someone who manages the business office for multiple dealerships I can tell you this guy understands half of it. He is knowledgeable as far as how to read the invoice and rebates.
In Finland was one car dealer who sell something to any customer who walked in the yard. Except couple of them who escaped by swimming. Shop was next the river and that section wasn`t fenced. Big mistake.
Very funny!
Great information Kevin, that’s why I don’t like dealing with dealers, they lie and never tell the truth, plus the inevitable multiple times of “let me go ask my manager”. And that’s not to mention all my time they waste!
Assume no one tells the truth.. you gotta know your bottom line.
When both the seller and buyer leave happy is the best deal.
So very wise. I had a touring caravan dealership for 42 years and my policy was the best deal for the customer and our Company. This involved the best after care possible as well. We made so many loyal customers, stopped advertising 30 years ago and had 40 very happy years. Money was never our intention, just to look after people.
Sucker customer, this benefits dealer every time
I made an offer to a dealer on a semi trailer, he literally yelled no to me and walked away like in disgust like I slept with daughter. Next week went back, made the same offer to his son, he took it. Met with both for the signing of paperwork, they were both happy as can be
If the seller is a dealer he/she will always seem happy, whether they are or not. Dealer smiles are employee mandated.
Just the opposite of divorce. If you both got screwed, must be a fair deal
Interesting fact, dealerships make about a 3% net profit. That is gross from the sales, parts, and service departments less the total expenses.
With almost 10 items to get through the best deal, negotiation could end up sitting in the dealership for days playing let-me-ask-my-manager trick
Plan on spending at least 6-8 hours at the dealership arguing and negotiating, if you want to get the best deal on a new car.
I say let me ask my wife.
@@acemoore7204
So in the middle of pandemic you want a crowded dealership of people arguing about $1200 profit on a Nissan or Toyota?
If I was the salesman I would run away. Just stay away from the dealership and buy a peice of shit Chrysler 200 off Craigslist.
Thanks!
Much appreciated!
Thanks, Kevin - great videos. Question I've always wondered about - which is even more true in these days of COVID where dealers are more constrained. Why can't customers just say 'based on my research, here's what I'm willing to pay?' That's what happens in open markets where bartering is the rule. If they can't do it, fine, move on. I just sent a proposal to a dealer (that's been hounding me) several states away. Thanks
Thanks so much Kevin for all your help! Just bought a brand new 2019 Kia Optima LX that I got for under 18K! It needed to go and had to be deeply discounted because it was a last years model and no one wanted the pearl white metallic. I followed your steps and got the deal of a lifetime! Thanks so much and stay safe to you and your family! Much appreciation & Respect, -Gregory
Pearl white is one of the most beautiful colors out there!
Of course, it needs to be washed a little more frequently...But totally worth it.
After spending 45 years in Auto/Heavy Truck/Equipment manufacturing when I go in to the car dealer locally and they know me well all they tell show me is the cars with the best dealer net net invoicing. I normally pick up very nice new one year model year back to add in depreciation deductions I get off the actual manufacturer in the floor plan. You are in the 60% or less of stricker.
If You walk into a Car Dealer & Think for one second that there not out to Burn your ass, You have a lot to learn! Around here they stick you now with Documentation Fee Usually 4--5--6--700 dollars! For filing out the papers to sell you the car!!! And then they want you to give them yours and Buy there's!
I once paid the full sticker price. It was my first brand new vehicle. I had no clue.
It would have paid off if you bought a FORD GT.
It would have paid off if you bought a Toyota Rav 4 Prime XSE plug-in
Kevin should have a buyers service to do the negotiating for us.
Dealers are very sneaky, many won't give you any Factory Holdbacks, or Special Offers.
Holdback? You want the holdback too? This ain’t a charity brother and if $750 bucks in holdback is the difference between you being able to afford the car or not then you need a cheaper car.
Special Offers? Like what? I’m genuinely not sure what you mean here but if you will elaborate I’ll try to give you my advice on it.
Another note at end of the month. Check out the sales board frequently visible in the showroom. You can see how the dealership and your sales person is doing and look for motivations.
Kevin, What about the 'Document fee' the dealer likes to add on to pick your pocket. I love to call them out on that one! Nice video.
Sadly that is something that someone decided to ADD 0N because they could. I often like it to the same thing airlines do with LUGGAGE FEES. There is no reason other than they found a new way to screw you. Have you ever looked at your cellphone bill closely? There are about 9 different taxes on it. Why.......because they can. Who can stop it
@@glennnichols4220 sad but true 👍 😔 even the government dose it 😢..
Documentary fees, depending on state, are illegal.
In Georgia, for instance, the only thing dealers can add to the advertised price are tax/tag/title and lemon law fee for new cars (not used). If they try to tack on anything else they're just shafting you, it's time to walk.
For Georgia: consumer.georgia.gov/auto-informer-newsletters (issues 12-14. 12 is important to read).
In some states you can look up the tax on each particular vehicle using the vin (included in the listing somewhere), and the other fees like title, tag, and lemon law fees. With those in hand you can look at the advertised price and know exactly what the drive out is before stepping onto the lot.
As soon as they mis-quote that total (and they will, every time) you can point out the law. if they refuse to budge, WALK. Then file a complaint with the BBB, state consumer protection bureau, and the manufacturer... and the media, if you can get them to pay attention (they seldom do).
I used to refuse to pay it, now they refuse to allow you not to pay it.
@@sscbkr48 Pick up your checkbook and head for the door and see if they don't follow you out, especially at the end of the month.
Outstanding video! This is like a national public service announcement. Everybody buying a car should watch this.
I don’t understand why people think that just because they know what the cost or other perks the dealers get as profit, they must give it up. How would you like to sell a product or provide a service with no profit?
This is good advice. I would also mention you should not talk about your trade in vehicle until you finalize the new car price. Don’t bring an excited wife with you to negotiate. Don’t deal in monthly payments to determine the selling price, negotiate the for sale price not what your payments are going to be.
I want the model on the right! The trim and accessories are just perfect!
I wonder how she (at 10:30) scores on the reliability rankings.
Who cares, I want that accessory also ;o)
You should do video on purchasing a new car at MSRP like new corvette. What can we do about this?
Saving to buy a new toyota tundra with cash, probably right b4 the new year. Thank you for all the knowledge, ur videos are amazing!
Mark Davies looking at a new tundra too. F250 tremor would be my second choice.
Make sure to watch his video about buying with cash.
Make sure to shop around to get the best deal
Never tell them you plan on buying with cash until you negotiate the final sale price
Kevin, I have been buying new cars for fifty years. On the average every five to six years. (I like new vehicles) After watching all your videos I hate to think about how many times I was bent over with BS fees etc. I'm in the process of buying a new truck, in December and at the end of the month, and I have been to four dealerships in my area. Interesting experiences at each with different personalities coming into play. Thanks to your videos I feel that I am now on a level playing field. All I every want is a fair deal that I can feel good about when I am sitting in the vehicle thinking about how well I did once the ink is dry.
Dealers are going to be stuck with all these cars and no buyers...
I hope so.... let them choke on their own damn scam.
That's why they're always full lol. Mostly it's people who live for the moment and don't pay cash. Old people do this all the time yet criticise the younger generation for the same thing for different material
Wishful thinking but the opposite is happening. They are selling cars like crazy because everyone took their corona check and bought a new car with it.
@@kenshinhimura9387 i want what you are smoking
@@kenshinhimura9387 I says pardon give your head a shake bud
First off the best way to sort this out I think is find out what they would pay you for a new one that is a couple months old ! With that price it will include all discounts and a bit of depreciation! Then it doesn’t matter what discounts you might miss when buying brand new ! Because they know for sure at this point And asking what cars they have in stock you can get the best price on will be stuff that’s hard to probably move ! They hardly ever move a car that’s known for being popular and reliable for big discounts!
I wish I knew all this stuff before my 1st time. I got completely ripped off with a 2011 Mini Cooper a couple years ago. A lot happened but here's an attempted short version:
My bank gave me a check for an approved amount to use, but they tried super dang hard to get me to finance through them. They charged a fee for using a bank check instead of their financing. Sticker price was $7,777 but after all the paper work it was $12,000. After driving the car home I tried to restart it but it started hiccuping. Dealer said Mini coopers need to cool off first for 10min before it starts again, in which it did. Found out for a Mini dealership that was a lie! Cost me almost $5,000 in repairs for various issues. Even the key fob stop working! Thank God for the warranty I put on. I ended up crying to the warranty company for help and they bent rules just to help me. The dealership gave me temp tags for 6 months and never sent the car title to my bank. I reported them and they ended up getting shut down by the DMV. They screwed a lot of people. Long story short I'M DUUUUMB!!
SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT THE WARRANTY LOL
Interesting video and educational, however I learned through the years the fallowing:
- if you buy a car from a dealer considered yourself “screwed” automatically
- if the dealer don’t make enough profits out of your “purchase” you ain’t going to get your dream car !
-... of course is not the same have been screwed up with a couple of thousand rather than five or ten thousand !!!
Out the door price. Is what dealership don’t like To hear!
Dave S. You are right, the best thing I've learned about buying a car is go to a bank if you got good credit and apply for a good low interest rate loan. The banks will let you know what amount you qualify for, this way here when you go to a dealership you've got the upper hand you've already got the financing in the amount you want to spend on a vehicle.
@@jmackinjersey1 Why would you pay more than what the car is worth.
Dealers do that all the time "well how much can you afford a month?" Question. I say its not about monthly payments which I can swing anyway, i dont wanna pay 50k on a 40k truck.
@@jmackinjersey1 if you can't break down monthly payments on a loan amount... I would recommend you not be negotiating...
@@jmackinjersey1 well... thats when you say... "that sounds like a great monthly payment for that amount of money.... id like to sign up for that because it seems the bank is losing money...." google says the payment is this much... and we know Google don't lie. Oh you trust Alexa...
My system for negotiating is the start with the sticker price then use a multiplyer of 75% and thats what I offer first!
Have you been successful using this method? Thanks.
You are amazing! I wish I could take you with me on my next vehicle purchase. Really appreciate all this helpful information
Enjoy your time with your three little munchkins. ☺
For many years I used Consumer Reports, which would, for a small fee, provide you with a printout showing dealer cost and sticker price for the car and all the options. CR used to advise that about the best deal that you will get is 4-6% above dealer cost, and that less than that makes it not worth the dealer's effort to sell you the car. I have found that usually I can get the price down into that range and while I may not have gotten the very best price, I still ended up with a fair and good price. Dealers that will not negotiate, who merely push a note across the desk and say "this is my best price" get me to walk out the door and try another dealership. Sometimes I have said "what is your bottom line price? You get one shot and then I either buy or walk". Trying that with multiple dealers ended up with me getting a very good price in the end. But you always have to be willing to walk.
Great video and excellent presentation! I've been to dealerships that tried to tell me the MSRP on the window is what the dealership paid for the vehicle. I just shook my head and walked out the door with the salesman trying to get me to come back to the showroom.
Please make a video on precautions to be taken while individuals are directly buying used cars from individual owners
i FEEL LIKE i'VE never GOT A GOOD DEAL EVER!!
and u f wont , new cars are a rip off.
If your not to picky about the vehicle wait to buy in February when the manufacturer wholesales the new left over inventory from the previous year. I purchased a new GMC 2500HD 4x4 @ a 23% discount from MSRP at the dealership, again last years model but brand new.
Never buying new again. Someone else can take the kicking on depreciation.
@j mcmann that is because they know that they make more money on home loans than on car loans, buy a car, the dealers makes the money on selling you a loan and most people dont even know that the dealership gets a cut of the interest, but the banks make the money on the house.
@j mcmann and the real money that the dealership makes is on the service, i took my new 2019 camry in for the 15000 mile service 4 weeks ago here in North Carolina and did that so i could get it taken care of in case the virus spread got worse and the car has less than 14000 miles on it. when i was checking in for service, they had the mechanics washing down the inside of the car for sanitizing and then the mechanic and the service writer told me my tires look like they are wearing strange and uneven and that i needed to get a front end alignment and they were showing me why i needed it and i already knew they were full of shit and i said oh really, and i told them that ill pass on it and then the mechanic went on his way and the service writer told me that if i dont do whats recomended, that it would void the life time warranty that the dealership offers and also the extended warranty could refuse to pay future repairs, i told him that is why i cancelled the extended warranty 3 days after i purchased it and got it applied to my principle, but, i just paid off the card 3 weeks ago and got the title this week. when i finsh the free 25000 mile service that the manufacturer offers, im done taking it to them, ill do the oil service myself, everybody here knows a brand new car dont need no dam alignment, it goes straight down the road and dont even pull to either side of the road and goes straight, they tried that crap on me wanting me to replace my rack and pinion on my 2011 camry and they wanted $2200 for that. i told the service writer that i know that she is on commision and the mechanic and i know whats happening, that mechanic is so deep in debt to that snap on tool truck for the tool box and the tools, he got to shaft people to pay for it.
Yup. Bought a new car summer 2016 because I’ve always wanted a brand new car with the plastic wrap all over the interior. Now that I know how much they depreciate, will buy something that is 2-4 years old going forward
They depreciate so quickly because they aren't worth what you're actually paying. I think another way to ballpark price a new car is to take a very slightly used car's value and calculate in wear and tear. All the money that a brand new car depreciates went right into the dealer's pocket.
Who cares if the car smells like puke? Lease cars. Those big SUV's always do. Gross. Puke, shit, bad milk. You name it. Don't buy a leased car. They smell.
Searching dealers now trying to find the right deal. Watching your videos a huge help. Thanks.
Can you do a video on used cars?
Yes, where can you find the 'black book' price on a car?
@Scott B you must be a dealer lol
Incentives are another pet peeve of mine the dealers advertise with all the incentives then you go in an find out most of the incentives don't apply to you unless you happen to be a one legged world war one veteran working as a realtor and holding a conquest lease living in the correct metropolitan zip code.
😂
Rule #1 depreciation starts when tail lights cross the property line.
And it also instantly becomes a used car. My parents slogan under the Fabbi Auto Wrecking sign was "Everybody drives on used". This cheesed off a lot of "new" car owners.
Depreciation on value as far as inventory is when it comes off the assembly line. But that is for tax values to the manufacturer and is wrapped up in the floor plan deals given dealers and the finished inventory. I spent years involved in this.
Back in the 80s one of my teachers bought a brand new S10 pickup. Was undecided between the green one or the red one (otherwise identical). Got the green one.
Drove off the lot into the turn lane for a major 4-way intersection. Sales guy and manager were catching a smoke at the corner of the lot and waved at him. Suuuucker!
Huge 1980s detroit steel monster took their right turn wide while speeding and plowed into his brand new truck, shoving it into a delivery truck behind it. Pretty much folded his brand new truck in half.
Once the cops were done arresting the uninsured, unlicensed, inebriated driver my teacher slunk back to the dealership to ask if he could get his trade in back...
Salesman gave him an odd look and handed him a pen and some keys - to the RED truck. Apparently, after witnessing the accident 20 seconds after he left the lot, they sent all of his paperwork through the shredder and drew up the same paperwork on the red truck. The green one they wrote off as a 'test drive accident'...
Needless to say, they earned a customer for life that day.
@@amzarnacht6710 Cool, you don't hear positive stuff much re/dealerships.
It starts when you sign on the dotted line.
When I worked for a Honda dealership years ago, we could tell how much the dealer paid for parts just by looking at a set of lines on the parts label. Everything was printed out in black and white if you knew how to read it.
Kevin, thank you for all your valuable advice! What is a fair profit formula I can calculate for a dealership to make on a purchase? Thank you so much for your response.
I was looking at a new Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro a couple weeks ago. MSRP $43,600. On the Addendum Sticker: "Special Dealer Package" (2 inch lift/leveling kit, 33" tires and wheels) $4,600. "Local Market Adjustment" $5,000. Delivery Charge: $800. Total Price: $54,000. When a salesman started to walk over, I waved him off, laughed, and walked out.
That was the first question I asked the salesman and I always got a confused, caught off guard look from him. They would stumble and mumble and then I'd get the "I would have to ask the manager " bullshit. I knew they wouldn't tell me I just used to like to watch them squirm.
PasswordBosco does trying to make people squirm make you feel like a big man ? You have issues pal.
Salesman don't know the dealer's cost for the car. Neither do the managers usually. It says so in this video too.
PasswordBosco I’d love to see you try to put me back on my heels bud, good luck. It can’t be done.
I have been buying Chrysler, Dodge, Ram and Jeep vehicles since 1982, 17 to be precise, plus 7 that my daughters and grand kids have bought, I have never had a coupon from the manufacturer.
Cant get a dealer to move of the "No Haggle Price". This particular vehicle is used, been there for almost an entire year, but they refuse to negotiate. What gives?
some sucker will come in and buy it,,, thats why..
Just a PSA....we already know about your coupons. They're typically referred to as private offers. We get a list at the beginning of every month with previous buyers that have them. They usually make the new guys cold call the whole list. They also pop up when we go to pull rebates for an individual customer.
Great video. This is the only online video I have watched that is 100% accurate. I had a close friend that owned a major dealership and you are on the money with this info.......🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Sure Gary I am lol positive you know what your talking about lol because your friend used to own a dealership.
I worked for GM Assembly back in the early 70's. It cost the plant $600.00 a minute to operate. (material, labor and power) We produced 1 Vehicle every 59 seconds. The vehicle was driven to the shipping yard where the price was doubled ($1,200) and moved to a distribution yard in any given state where it sat until that vehicles description was called for by a dealer. The more units the dealer sold the less they paid for a unit (called incentives, like an extra 2%) I never buy a brand new vehicle. Two years old with low miles is the best choice (2019 with 10,000 miles)
Thank You for your hard work and advice. I will wait to the end of the year. Right now I think the dealers are figuring to make more money.
Carlos Flores you have no idea
I was a salesmen for 3 months ( I sold only 1 car ) was fired, but did take their $600 class which told me their tricks and mark up price. All new cars are marked up $3000 and used cars are marked up $3000 - $ 6000 in 1996. So you can imagine how much they have gone up these days.
Why would a dealer give you their invoice? It's like walking into Macy's and asking them what's their cost on product they sell. They or any other business dont give out their cost info
I bought a new 2019 Ford Escape Titanium. MSRP 37k, invoice 31k i paid 26.5k
@@johnprice1824 Sure you did pal, prove it
I bought a 2019 Ford Expedition with msrp $66k, I paid $50,500 before ttl. Got all cash rebates and haggle discounts.
There are 3 invoices for every vehicle. 1) MSRP price. 2) Invoice price they may share and you can detail on any manufacturer site and 3) The true invoice which is kept in glove box on delivery to dealer. Many dealers are very secretive about this and will go to extreme lengths to avoid discovery. This true dealer invoice price does not include hold backs and dealer cash or coupons.
@@rodp1664 Right on😀
Great Show - Been in Car Business Since 1974 - Your Show is the Best I have seen . Thank You .
Thanks for the info. Please consider covering used car pricing. I’m finding it difficult to negotiate a fair deal. I believe dealer should make a profit but I’m seeing 20% markup between trade and sale prices. Maybe show a few vehicles in car gurus and show us how your would work a deal. Thanks again I’m learning a lot but unlike new cars used car pricing is the wild Wild West.
That's the next video on my drawing board. Watch for it coming soon!
@@KevinHunter Yes yes yes, looking forward to watching it.
Yeah used cars sales is where I fall flat on. There's just so many more incentives you can take advantage of with a new car that you can't do with a used car.
I often times stick to KBB value and hope it's within that range. That site though is shady in itself since it is in the used car business.
Higher margin on used vs new.
As an older person, (not that old) It’s hard for me to remember everything said, so hoping to remember enough to get fair deal as I’m looking for a new truck for towing. But, did learn one great thing, that is when to walk away! Thanks.
Nice video but no secrets here. He didn't tell me anything that I didn't already know.
@Kevin Hunter I recently decided to get a new used CPO 2018 Prius C with less than 7,000 miles. After watching a few of your videos I feel like i was played just a bit in the finance portion. I have not taken delivery of the car yet due to the car having a bad battery so waiting for a new battery on back order due to covid-19 going around the world but I did sign off on all paperwork given to me. My first payment is not due for 90 days and they have yet to pay off my current loan for my current car. I have a trade in with negative equity but since I have not taken the new car yet I still have my car.They only gave me $3,000 for my trade in giving me a $4,172.00 negative equity. They did get the new car sale price of $17,699.00. They got me with a 3.29% for 72 months and a total finance amount of about $25,813.90. I initially came in with a pre-approved amount of $20k at 3.49% for 60 months. I do have a few extras on the deal like gap for $1,050 and a small warranty called ecoblockandkey for an amount of $895. Is there anything I can realistically do to get a better/fairer deal?
Yes, there is a TON you can do for a better and fairer deal.
You have great timing. I have a CPO video coming out at 5am tomorrow morning. I think you'll want to see that. Without a doubt, you paid more for your car (because it's a CPO) than you would have for a good used car. I wouldn't have done that.
I have a number of questions. With all the economic worries currently facing this country, why would you go out and take a chance on making your financial situation even worse? Trading off a car with $4,172 in negative equity... whoa, double ouch! You could sell your own vehicle outright and likely recover most or all of that money. Why wouldn't you do that first? That kind of money is like GOLD to people right now. And then... you're buying a CPO, so why do you buy a $895 EcoBlockandKey warranty? You're getting hosed on the trade, hosed on the car, hosed on warranties you don't need, and then blasted with a $1,050 GAP policy.
Here's the good news:
You haven't taken delivery on the car... it means you can walk away from this deal right now, and I'm suggesting you do exactly that. I'd rewind the whole scenario, and start completely over.
Your next first step: Can you give me the details on your car? Year, miles, trim level, approximate condition of the vehicle, including the zipcode you live in. I'd be happy to help you establish a proper value for it. Tag me on your response, or email to info@thehomeworkguy.com
@@KevinHunter Thank you so much for responding and your feedback. I thought because of the situation I could get a decent deal because the sales department was shutting down indefinitely due to the restrictions in California. My current car is a 2014 Mini Cooper hardtop base model with 1.5L 3 cyl turbo engine with 80,100 miles on it. Zip code 91746. I wanted to trade it in since I feel the car is going to conk out on me since other little things were going out like the moonroof, fog lights, chrome trim pieces, and transmission is riding rough already. Plus the car did break down on me leaving me stranded late last year which costed me $1,200. To add, this is the only car for my family since my mother car was totaled by my father midyear last year. Since my mother has been driving it these last few months the current condition of the car I would say is fair. Nothing major is wrong and it goes down the road fine. How do I walk away from the deal right now when that dealers sales department is closed and all paperwork has been signed for? I did initially went to a Honda dealer the day before and they offered $4,000 for my trade in and when I went told Toyota they initially said they would give me $4,200 for my trade in but when I went to financing they gave me a BS reasoning to why they could not give me that initial trade in value. I know now that I should have gotten in writing and I was initially trying to discuss sale price of vehicle but they detracted me towards negotiating monthly payment.
With similar miles, there are Mini Coopers for sale in your area for $8,000. Some are over $13,000... well equipped, great shape. You could likely private party (sell) your car for $6,500-$7,000. Start it at $7,000, or $7,500. In any event, don't saddle yourself with that negative equity. It's such a bad idea.
You have email, phone numbers, etc to contact the dealership. Use both methods, and inform them you are tearing up the deal and walking. Your signature on papers for a car you haven't taken delivery on (and you still have your own car) means nothing. A contract is only a contract after you've done everything that's happened so far..... AND you drive your new car home. THEN, and only then, you have a car contract.
Contact the dealership and let them know you're making better financial choices for yourself, and you're going to rewind this whole thing. Perhaps you choose a different path than what I'm suggesting, but this is exactly what I'd advise any person asking the same question.
Here's the CPO video ruclips.net/video/TSWpW54Jrnk/видео.html
@@KevinHunter Thank you so much Kevin for saving me from making a terrible financial decision!
I have contacted my bank to not accept the dealership check when it comes in. I have also tried contacting the dealer through email and by leaving a message on the phone. I do not know if anyone will get it because the sales department of dealership is closed due to covid-19 but I am going to walk away from this terrible deal.
I will continue to contact dealer and Toyota financing to tear up this terrible deal.
Thank you again! Just one more question. In the event they try to tell me it is not possible to get out of deal for whatever reason or try to charge me for walking away from the deal who do I go to/talk to to get out of deal?
Learned long ago ordering the last Grand National, that invoices are different per dealer, which always puzzled me because I ordered directly from the dealers cost sheet. I learned even with same options & cost, another dealer was still able to cut the price. It gets overwhelming with all the layers. That was a customer ordered Buick. Thanks, hope I know enough for my next purchase.
The best cars are the ones you'll find for sale by senior citizens, usually one owner cars they've had for years and have usually been well taken care of, we used to cruise the senior parks and neighborhoods looking for cars for sale, some being sold just because someone passed away, dealers may not want cash, but it's king on private sales, especially in times of recession.
To start with, Dealers don't own ANY car's, trucks. They're all sold on consignment!
@AL CAPPS WRONG! You would have to be a gazillionaire to buy car's that sell from mid 20S to mid 60s, 70s thousands of dollars. On top of that, it's just not like it used to be.
Consignment implies the dealer has no financial stake until the vehicle is sold. Most dealers are "floor planned financed" and the dealer is financing possession of the vehicle
Also; since dealers don’t have to pay for electricity, phones, rent employee benefits, licenses or anything else, everyone should pay dealer cost for their cars. The last time I went to a restaurant, I asked to see the invoice on the steak I ordered so I didn’t get ripped off. After all, no restaurant should make a fair profit on the food they sell.
As a former dealer mgr, I can tell you everybody negotiates incorrectly. Everybody want to negotiate a "discount", when the best way to get your best deal is to offer "X" amount OVER invoice. This forces the dealer to produce a copy of the invoice to confirm your pricing. If they refuse to show invoice..........walk away
@Ted Hursh - What an interesting comment! Thank you for posting this. So… what does “X” equal? HOW MUCH over invoice should I offer?
#thehomeworkguy
@@tmackie1694 As a rule, I would start with $400, but, select a "ceiling" offer you're willing to live with, ie, $600 over invoice ahead of time. Another point, if you're willing to wait about 8-10 weeks, place a factory order and in this instance, $100 over invoice is the marker. Another point, on the window sticker will be a date the dealer received the car......the dealer will have more incentive to give you what you want for the "older" vehicle....this is because almost all dealers don't "own" their cars, they're being financed and they pay interest while that car sits there and collects dust. Look for a car that's been there at least 90 days. As a rule, most cars only have a profit of 9%-10% of window sticker, so don't be expecting "tons" of money for a discount. Remember, every $$ you save is less registration fees and sales tax $$ paid. Hope this helps
@@tedhursh9058 thank you very much for your reply and further insight, I really appreciate it. My situation is two wks ago I visited the local Ford dealer to test drive the Bronco Sport. They had no cars to sell, only two demo models, neither of which they were willing to discuss sale of. They have three cars being delivered in August, so I put down a fully-refundable deposit on one. No negotiations have yet taken place. I noticed one of the demos that next to the Monroney (MSRP $34,745), there was a second “official”-looking sticker that said “Markup $6,995” !?!? With this in mind, I anticipate that when I start negotiations with “X over invoice”, my offer will be rejected. I anticipate the very real possibility that I might have to walk away simply because of demand. I fear the dealer will be happy to let me walk away with confidence someone else will come along shortly and pay much more. This situation is exacerbated by the fact that I live in a very geographically isolated location with no competing local dealers. I cannot drive to the next dealer. I would have to negotiate & buy via email/phone, then ship via sea. Quite possibly a situation that sees me with the least leverage of any buyer in the country 😞 Any further thoughts? Thanks again.
#thehomeworkguy
I had to watch this twice after being distracted by some good looking views there.
😂🤣😅 right
Some Car Dealerships also do this, hiring Young and Sexy Girls, and Male Models to distract some of us.
I KNEW of some Young Women went to Dealers just to check out the handsome men there 😉
EXACTLY! Somebody has a fascination with blondes!
good looking views are part of the new car sales gimmicks.
Negotiations are essential if you want a great deal! That said do your homework, try to deal near the end of the month, finding the most popular vehicle discounts are difficult but not impossible. Be ready to just walk away, expect a call from the dealership shortly. Use your brain, be aware of fraudulent offers. Lastly Good luck with your search and purchase.
I fear, though, that in the current seller’s market, if you get up and walk away, the dealer will never call because someone else will buy the car in the same week… 🤷🏼♀️
You’re AWESOME !!
Thanks so much for the helpful information. I can never repay how much your videos have helped guide me as I shopped for used cars.
Thanks a lot for the great info. Can we used this info techniques on a used vehicle from the dealership ?
Thanks for your channel video. I learn a lot before buying cars. God Bless you and your channel helping people not to get ripped off by most car dealer, salesman
In the 1970’s Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth dealers paid 60% of MSRP
Now they pay 95+% of msrp!
Nice Information... but none of it applies to any Toyota dealers with whom I have visited. Not only will they demand the list price....they add 1,000s of dollars for paint finish and other mysterious charges. Toyota dealers have been doing this for over 40yrs. By taping a little piece of paper on the window plus the factory sticker. I never purchased a Toyota since I refuse to pay the sucker.
Thanks for the information, I don't like car dealers they always lie,never tell the truth
KEVIN, REALLY ENJOYED YOUR PRESENTATION. AS A MATTER OF FACT I'M GOING TO FIX A CUP OF COFFEE AND WATCH IT AGAIN. WHAT AREA OF THE COUNTRY ARE YOU IN. I SURE WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU MORE QUESTIONS. HAVE YOU EVER THOUGHT OF DOING SEMINARS?? Cordially, Chuck📖🛫🛬
GENIUS : GREAT VIDEO : THE GENIUS IS YOUR HONESTY AND INTEGRITY ! ! !
LOVE IT ! ! !
I’m sure don’t going to buy a car in the near future but will watch the video with the same attention as if I was going to the dealer tomorrow.
Thanks for the info, Kevin!
I knew a guy who worked for an independent leasing agent. He had access to a book they called "The Bible." In it was the price that every dealer paid for every new car in America. What I saw on average was a difference of over four thousand dollars between the MSRP and the actual price paid. I also saw that the more fun or popular the car was the difference was over five thousand.
Dealers make most of their profit on used cars, service, body shop, parts and finance. The profit margin on new cars is very low.
BS
Thirty years ago when I sold cars for Chrysler, used cars had roughly 50% more markup when sold. And if you get that new car serviced regularly at the dealership, they’ll make more off of you there then when the car sells. Parts are always more expensive at the dealership than when I get work done at the independent garage. Even misc. items such as lug nuts, filters and engine oil are more expensive there then at a department store.
Pretty good video, glad he explained the cost of the vehicle.only if he could teach people to shop for cars...
The best line is " I know it when I see it"... they typically means you know nothing about what your shopping for. You will probably shop price and looks feeling like the sales men might screw them and typically they just end up screwing them selfs.
Plz stop buying kai Hyundai or Mitsubishi Chevy.
5 gallons of additional gas - $1,526?
I'll take the blonde. At full price
Very helpful since i plan on visiting dealship 1st week in January
Hey love the video as! I followed your advice and got a 2019 F-150 $1600 below invoice and got them to throw in $1100 of accessories, which was a level kit and spray-in bed liner. I paid a $300 doc fee and that was it. MSRP 56500, invoice 50100, paid price 41500. Used my own financing. How did I do?
Sounds good, I'm looking at a house, can you make an offer for me?
Will be shopping for my first car sometime in the future. Just wanted to express thanks, as I do as much homework as I can before my car buying experience.
No car dealer in USA would ever give me the invoice price.
I always work off invoice price. The first person I speak with when I walk on a car lot, I tell them I generally pay $200 to $300 over invoice. Is that a problem here? And I shut up. And when we sit down they show me the invoice or I walk. I also only buy from the sales manager who has to move many cars each month to get his bonus. Never the next salesman up in rotation. Car buying can be an emotional purchase = they win. Do your homework. Have your own prequalified financing. Show up as an educated buyer.
That’s not true and even if they did show you the invoice there is more to it than just the invoice. Holdback etc