Do you have any videos on dealing with knots on the belly? I have a lot of willows here (I know, not a great bow wood, but good for practice) and they are very knotty
If you happened to violate a growth ring on the back how long would the bow last? Would it break during the tillers process or make it through to the shooting?
Thanks Clay. I have a handful of Black Locust staves that I harvested a few years ago. They have been curing in my basement and I recently started working one. The nots on this particular stave seem to be a challenge, but what is worse is I find it hard to "chase a ring" or at least much harder than the one Osage I worked. It seems difficult to see the difference in the rings. There isn't much information out there regarding BL. I am curious of your position on the wood and if you have any pointers or "be sure not to" type info. I didn't pick the best stave of my stash on purpose since it is really my first bow, but I did successfully bend it using steam to better align the two ends. I chose BL because my friend's property is loaded with it plus I like the color and hardiness of it. Thanks again. btw, I have been lurking for about as long as you have been posting videos.... perhaps I should venture over to the Patreon page.
Hi Scott, I haven’t worked with BL much but there is a section about it in my book that was written by other knowledgeable bowyers who’ve got first hand experience with it.
Hello, BL is a great bow wood if the belly is kept flat and the design a few inches longer than for an osage equivalent. The Cherokee longbow design seems to work well. Go slow and careful with the tillering - BL is not as forgiving as osage is. Good luck and greetings from a German bowyer!
Christian Bowyer hello back and thank you. I have heard about the Cherokee longbow but don't know much about it. I will research it more carefully and see if I can find any useful information. This craft seems to be a well kept secret as there isn't a lot of instruction through video. I may look at some books too, but for me it is easier to learn by watching. Is there a forum any of you recommend ? Thanks again
Scott Waters Hi Scott, on RUclips there are instructions from the Cherokee nation and I recommend the step by step tutorial Dr. Al Herrin has on RUclips. Though he works osage, which he can obtain easily. But the process is the same with BL. For an average poundage of #50 @ 28" drawlength choose 67"/68" length and 1 3/4" wide. For comfort narrow the grip to 1 1/4" but the original Cherokee bow is widest at the grip and narrows straight to 1/2" at the tips and bends through the handle though slightly less than at midlimb. I wish you success and much fun working the tough BL.
I never knew it to be called Osage orange and all my life it was always called bodak or horse Apple here in Texas so when I first heard about this I thought it was something rare then I was like wait a minute that's a bodak tree hell I know
You really do a great job of explaining things in an understandable and down-to-earth way. Thank you.
I appreciate that!
Another great tutorial Clay 👍
Do you leave the knots proud? Or do you take them down smooth? Great teachings. Thanks.
Leave them. Sanding them flat will violate the growth ring and compromise the bows integrity.
Do you have any videos on dealing with knots on the belly? I have a lot of willows here (I know, not a great bow wood, but good for practice) and they are very knotty
I pay no attention to knots on the belly side.
@@clayhayeshunter does that mean i can "plow through them" but just be careful for weak or stiff spots?
I just flatten them on the belly. This is covered in detail at www.patreon.com/clayhayes
If you happened to violate a growth ring on the back how long would the bow last? Would it break during the tillers process or make it through to the shooting?
It may survive. It’s hard to say
Thanks Clay. I have a handful of Black Locust staves that I harvested a few years ago. They have been curing in my basement and I recently started working one. The nots on this particular stave seem to be a challenge, but what is worse is I find it hard to "chase a ring" or at least much harder than the one Osage I worked. It seems difficult to see the difference in the rings.
There isn't much information out there regarding BL. I am curious of your position on the wood and if you have any pointers or "be sure not to" type info. I didn't pick the best stave of my stash on purpose since it is really my first bow, but I did successfully bend it using steam to better align the two ends. I chose BL because my friend's property is loaded with it plus I like the color and hardiness of it. Thanks again. btw, I have been lurking for about as long as you have been posting videos.... perhaps I should venture over to the Patreon page.
Hi Scott, I haven’t worked with BL much but there is a section about it in my book that was written by other knowledgeable bowyers who’ve got first hand experience with it.
Hello, BL is a great bow wood if the belly is kept flat and the design a few inches longer than for an osage equivalent. The Cherokee longbow design seems to work well. Go slow and careful with the tillering - BL is not as forgiving as osage is. Good luck and greetings from a German bowyer!
Christian Bowyer hello back and thank you. I have heard about the Cherokee longbow but don't know much about it. I will research it more carefully and see if I can find any useful information. This craft seems to be a well kept secret as there isn't a lot of instruction through video. I may look at some books too, but for me it is easier to learn by watching. Is there a forum any of you recommend ? Thanks again
Scott Waters Hi Scott, on RUclips there are instructions from the Cherokee nation and I recommend the step by step tutorial Dr. Al Herrin has on RUclips. Though he works osage, which he can obtain easily. But the process is the same with BL. For an average poundage of #50 @ 28" drawlength choose 67"/68" length and 1 3/4" wide. For comfort narrow the grip to 1 1/4" but the original Cherokee bow is widest at the grip and narrows straight to 1/2" at the tips and bends through the handle though slightly less than at midlimb. I wish you success and much fun working the tough BL.
I hot a small hole from a knot on my bow limb.whats best way to fill it
Would knot in crepe myrtle be same
I’ve been working on a chokecherry bow it’s goin great but ants ate out a hole an inch wide and bout an inch deep right in the side what should I do
Well, that’s a pretty vague description of the problem. Post some photos to the Primitive Archer forum and ask for recommendations.
Clay Hayes k thanks and what do u think of chokecherry wood any tips with it
Make it as wide as you can without too much crown. And long.
Clay Hayes ok thx
When working with a drawknive you want to use the whole width of the cutting edge in a slicing manner.
Hey Clay just out of curiosity what kind of sheath knife is that which I see you carry in all your videos
It’s made by Chris Reade in the 🇬🇧. I’m not sure if he’s still making them or not.
nice Clay
Isn't this where a dull drawknife comes in especially handy?
It is. A dull knife will help avoid cutting into the ring you’re following!
I never knew it to be called Osage orange and all my life it was always called bodak or horse Apple here in Texas so when I first heard about this I thought it was something rare then I was like wait a minute that's a bodak tree hell I know
Shots every time he says "violate." jk. Kids, don't drink.