My company just invested in the XR model, and I can tell you it is a Quantum leap from the old MIG and TIG we were used to. We have to get our elders to adopt the paradigm shift, and we can't wait to get greater than 1/4" weld penetrations, which we are bound to see soon. We make rock crushers, and our weld are crucial.
I'm not so sure that it's really necessary to get more than 1/4" of penetration. Traditional manual welding processes often don't even go that deep, and properly welded joints with MIG, TIG, and stick rarely fail due to lack of penetration.
Fun fact, if you hold the left arrow button and go past A until you see Y, you can then turn the wobble frequency knob to move the beam's aim left and right if the beam is missing where it should be going. And if you hold both buttons it will save the aim adjustment. Learned that when the beam would miss the wire at times, also made that wire notch deeper on the wire nozzle to stop the wire from slipping out causing the beam to miss it.
To increase penetration increase the power is the 1st thing. You can also increase penetration by making the wobble width smaller and by reducing the wobble frequency. Sometimes on an outside corner weld you might increase the wobble width so it can catch both sides of the corner. This lessens the penetration as the beam is now catching a wider area so spreads out the heat. To adjust for this you increase the power. Or another example is if you want to get more depth of penetration then the specs. A user preset can be made where you narrow the wobble width and decrease the wobble frequency. And slow down the wire speed. Doing this you can increase penetration to .250 on the model rated for .160 and get near .312 penetration on the model rated for .250 penetration.
It's not just because of hot material why you should wear long sleeve clothing. If you feel a weird vibration on you, it's the beam reflecting back at you. It's very weird feeling that you have a more intense feeling of when your hand is in a beam reflection area which depending on how close your glove is is also accompanied with an instant flash of fire
Max weld penetration is either .160 or .250 deep - no beveling needed - in SS-Steel- or Aluminum. So for example you could butt weld - no beveling needed - .250 plates together with the XR model - and no gap between the plates.
Hi Glenn, thank you for this video, excellent training. Just one question: What's the difference about penetration, say we want to increase penetration, is it better to increase power, or to slow down wire feed? How would one or another technique influence weld quality and penetration? Thanx!
Normally you are going to adjust power to increase penetration. Another way to increase it would be to narrow the wobble width - which means power is more concentrated. Conversely if you widen the wobble width this will decrease penetration and to compensate you would increase the power.
If you are using an older wire feeder A. Pull off the weld prior to releasing the triggers. This will separate the wire and the laser beam will stop when pulled off B. At end of weld release upper or trigger two - wait a second - then pull trigger two and release which fires laser for moment and separates the wire - this can be good practice too as keeping trigger 1 - lower trigger on - keeps gas flow going over the weld to supply end of weld shielding of the weld puddle. On the new wire feeders or the double wire feeder the retract is faster and this is not normally a problem.
Word of warning for the forktip on outside corner joints since I use it too, it will get hot and fuse to the extension piece and after enough use the gun won't tell it is touching a surface the safety contact is clampped to requiring replacing the tip and extension section. I've welded enough 60 inch joints in a couple hours to feel how hot it can get
If you are using a fork tip on an outside corner the actual focal point is now inboard and not where the two corners meet. The gun tube has marks on it - so you can loosen the collet and adjust the tube outside roughly equal to the distance that the forks have moved down the sides of the corner, using the marks as reference. This will adjust the focal point to the corner of the weld. Using the fork tip for outside fusion corners works - but you need to adjust the tube outward because the fork tips - focus position - are not at the corner of the weld but down the sides as the fork straddles the welded corner. That might help.
@@Serra-LightBOT had to find the original tube since replacement ones don't have those marks, but extending the tube made the weld so much better/easier.
Hi everyone, has anyone with this laser welding machine managed to solve the issue of the small crack that forms at the overlap closure on circumferential welds? I am welding stainless steel or nickel alloy tubes, and I often encounter difficulties with thicknesses over 2 mm. Thanks
A couple of answers. With the 1st wire feeder IPG introduced it was easy to get stuck when new to LightWELDing, and with some experience this could be eliminated. Its easy to unstick if you do get stuck by a quick fire of the laser beam. On the new wire feeders there is a retract feature where you can put in a retract speed and time of retraction. This feature was not on the original wire feeders and its the key to not sticking the wire - even for novice LightWELDERS. The new IPG wire feeder also uses a stepper motor and has very consistent wire feed whereas the original the speed was not always consistent.
Would you use it for round tube frame structures? Something like a 4130 chassis? It looks bulky and hard to get to some tricky areas? This thing is terribly expensive and I would hate to find out that it not good for purpose...
Welding a round tube is not a problem - but you do need access to the weld joint. This gun is bigger than a TIG weld torch. There is some leeway angle to the weld that works and you are coming at the weld from an angle - not straight up and down - so its really a part by part basis on weld accessibility.
The Lightweld can penetrate materials up to 1/4" so it is not only for thin materials. That is the maximum rated penetration depth, but you are not limited to that thickness of material either.
If it's within the quarter inch limit it's fine, your biggest worry is where the beam is deflecting as you weld around the pipe without turning it. But sync the speed of a positioner with the wire feed speed and you can lazily hold the gun in place
The company bought the xr, but when I apply it to weld two pieces of aluminum without the wire, it does not penetrate the weld and it breaks. In what way can I square it so that the weld penetrates?
Check a couple of things, the 1st being to use the LightWELD welding conditions. Make sure you are using the 7 mm spacer on the gun tube - this is required when welding aluminum - there are two spacers that come with the unit 7 mm for aluminum and 10 mm for SS and steel - if that does not work then check the cover slide window and replace it.
Having used it on 18 gauge equivalent aluminum, tacking aluminum is always difficult to the point I use a weld setting instead of the tac mode and sometimes with a higher wobble speed. Besides having the proper 7mm extension and an argon bottle, you might need to use the wire feeder to tack pieces together because even when I get things together it doesn't take much for a tack to pop at times.
@@Serra-LightBOT thanks for the reply. I’m trying to figure out how much nitrogen gas a laser welder uses and I can’t find anything on the internet. From the limited information I could find and using some math I determined that 50 liters of nitrogen would last 3.05 minutes at 35 cubic feet per hour which seems excessive..and wrong. Maybe you could let me know how much gas?
Hey, what is the name of the yellow welder in the video. I've tried looking it up, but I can't find that exact machine. My company ID looking to buy one, and I would like to get that machine. Please help
Made In United States Yes 1,500W Cost 35,000 + Taxes + Shipping = 40,000 Dollars Cost This Laser Welder, I Bought A Transon 3,000 Watts For 5,000 Total And Welds, Cut And Rust Remover 100 Times Better Than Lightweld Laser Welder. Amén.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
My company just invested in the XR model, and I can tell you it is a Quantum leap from the old MIG and TIG we were used to. We have to get our elders to adopt the paradigm shift, and we can't wait to get greater than 1/4" weld penetrations, which we are bound to see soon. We make rock crushers, and our weld are crucial.
Where did you get this weld...and how much the cost
I'm not so sure that it's really necessary to get more than 1/4" of penetration. Traditional manual welding processes often don't even go that deep, and properly welded joints with MIG, TIG, and stick rarely fail due to lack of penetration.
Fun fact, if you hold the left arrow button and go past A until you see Y, you can then turn the wobble frequency knob to move the beam's aim left and right if the beam is missing where it should be going. And if you hold both buttons it will save the aim adjustment.
Learned that when the beam would miss the wire at times, also made that wire notch deeper on the wire nozzle to stop the wire from slipping out causing the beam to miss it.
Nice to see real world applications on actual fabrications. Thanks for posting, still outside my budget, though. 👍
Good information,thank you for teaching us. can you please give us a link of your glasses?
Smart teacher very good awesome awesome video learned a lot
To increase penetration increase the power is the 1st thing. You can also increase penetration by making the wobble width smaller and by reducing the wobble frequency. Sometimes on an outside corner weld you might increase the wobble width so it can catch both sides of the corner. This lessens the penetration as the beam is now catching a wider area so spreads out the heat. To adjust for this you increase the power. Or another example is if you want to get more depth of penetration then the specs. A user preset can be made where you narrow the wobble width and decrease the wobble frequency. And slow down the wire speed. Doing this you can increase penetration to .250 on the model rated for .160 and get near .312 penetration on the model rated for .250 penetration.
Awesome this is such a game changer. Thanks for all the good info.
It's not just because of hot material why you should wear long sleeve clothing. If you feel a weird vibration on you, it's the beam reflecting back at you. It's very weird feeling that you have a more intense feeling of when your hand is in a beam reflection area which depending on how close your glove is is also accompanied with an instant flash of fire
Max weld penetration is either .160 or .250 deep - no beveling needed - in SS-Steel- or Aluminum. So for example you could butt weld - no beveling needed - .250 plates together with the XR model - and no gap between the plates.
Hi Glenn, thank you for this video, excellent training. Just one question:
What's the difference about penetration, say we want to increase penetration, is it better to increase power, or to slow down wire feed? How would one or another technique influence weld quality and penetration? Thanx!
Normally you are going to adjust power to increase penetration. Another way to increase it would be to narrow the wobble width - which means power is more concentrated. Conversely if you widen the wobble width this will decrease penetration and to compensate you would increase the power.
Thank you for the demonstration.
Good demonstration
I bought this welding machine
But I'm having problems with penetration, the weld is easily broken
Can you assist me?
Love the diagram, fascinateing
Hi all, when I'm welding at the end of weld the wire all ways stick to the material please any tips thanks
If you are using an older wire feeder A. Pull off the weld prior to releasing the triggers. This will separate the wire and the laser beam will stop when pulled off B. At end of weld release upper or trigger two - wait a second - then pull trigger two and release which fires laser for moment and separates the wire - this can be good practice too as keeping trigger 1 - lower trigger on - keeps gas flow going over the weld to supply end of weld shielding of the weld puddle. On the new wire feeders or the double wire feeder the retract is faster and this is not normally a problem.
Word of warning for the forktip on outside corner joints since I use it too, it will get hot and fuse to the extension piece and after enough use the gun won't tell it is touching a surface the safety contact is clampped to requiring replacing the tip and extension section. I've welded enough 60 inch joints in a couple hours to feel how hot it can get
If you are using a fork tip on an outside corner the actual focal point is now inboard and not where the two corners meet. The gun tube has marks on it - so you can loosen the collet and adjust the tube outside roughly equal to the distance that the forks have moved down the sides of the corner, using the marks as reference. This will adjust the focal point to the corner of the weld. Using the fork tip for outside fusion corners works - but you need to adjust the tube outward because the fork tips - focus position - are not at the corner of the weld but down the sides as the fork straddles the welded corner. That might help.
@@Serra-LightBOT had to find the original tube since replacement ones don't have those marks, but extending the tube made the weld so much better/easier.
Question: I don't use the wire feeder and not welding aluminum - do I use the 10mm extension?
Does the wind have any effect on welding
Hi everyone, has anyone with this laser welding machine managed to solve the issue of the small crack that forms at the overlap closure on circumferential welds? I am welding stainless steel or nickel alloy tubes, and I often encounter difficulties with thicknesses over 2 mm.
Thanks
What’s the cost 4:25
Does the welding wire ever stick to the job when you stop & start
A couple of answers. With the 1st wire feeder IPG introduced it was easy to get stuck when new to LightWELDing, and with some experience this could be eliminated. Its easy to unstick if you do get stuck by a quick fire of the laser beam. On the new wire feeders there is a retract feature where you can put in a retract speed and time of retraction. This feature was not on the original wire feeders and its the key to not sticking the wire - even for novice LightWELDERS. The new IPG wire feeder also uses a stepper motor and has very consistent wire feed whereas the original the speed was not always consistent.
Are there any issues welding 2024T3 and 7075T6 aviation aluminium, spot welding, seam stepping etc.. ?
Would you use it for round tube frame structures? Something like a 4130 chassis? It looks bulky and hard to get to some tricky areas? This thing is terribly expensive and I would hate to find out that it not good for purpose...
Welding a round tube is not a problem - but you do need access to the weld joint. This gun is bigger than a TIG weld torch. There is some leeway angle to the weld that works and you are coming at the weld from an angle - not straight up and down - so its really a part by part basis on weld accessibility.
@@Serra-LightBOT Thanks!
Would you be able to weld pipe in position with these units or is it only a thin material shop tool?
P.S.......Once us real welders get ahold it and tweak the requirments itll be stellar. Just wait and see
The Lightweld can penetrate materials up to 1/4" so it is not only for thin materials. That is the maximum rated penetration depth, but you are not limited to that thickness of material either.
If it's within the quarter inch limit it's fine, your biggest worry is where the beam is deflecting as you weld around the pipe without turning it. But sync the speed of a positioner with the wire feed speed and you can lazily hold the gun in place
The company bought the xr, but when I apply it to weld two pieces of aluminum without the wire, it does not penetrate the weld and it breaks. In what way can I square it so that the weld penetrates?
Check a couple of things, the 1st being to use the LightWELD welding conditions. Make sure you are using the 7 mm spacer on the gun tube - this is required when welding aluminum - there are two spacers that come with the unit 7 mm for aluminum and 10 mm for SS and steel - if that does not work then check the cover slide window and replace it.
Having used it on 18 gauge equivalent aluminum, tacking aluminum is always difficult to the point I use a weld setting instead of the tac mode and sometimes with a higher wobble speed. Besides having the proper 7mm extension and an argon bottle, you might need to use the wire feeder to tack pieces together because even when I get things together it doesn't take much for a tack to pop at times.
What’s the flow rate of the nitrogen?
35 to 50 scfh per the IPG chart on pressure vs. flow rate on the LightWELD systems
@@Serra-LightBOT thanks for the reply. I’m trying to figure out how much nitrogen gas a laser welder uses and I can’t find anything on the internet. From the limited information I could find and using some math I determined that 50 liters of nitrogen would last 3.05 minutes at 35 cubic feet per hour which seems excessive..and wrong. Maybe you could let me know how much gas?
Where did you get that laser lens attachment? Thanks.
What type of laser is used? Not the delivery method!
Hey, what is the name of the yellow welder in the video. I've tried looking it up, but I can't find that exact machine. My company ID looking to buy one, and I would like to get that machine. Please help
Luke I can help you with that. My email is glennkline@serralaser.com
Is laser CW or pulse?
Can be used for either
Gas coverage appears poor?
Some of the starts and stops looked bad I'd like to see those parts pressure tested you'd see leaks in the corners.
I couldn’t see any puddle when welding aluminum
Why am I above you. Oh I see works
All this seems like Greek to me…. But who else can weld razor blades.
Κ’ εγώ! 😂
WIG but no adding material.
Very fast.
Made In United States Yes
1,500W Cost 35,000 + Taxes + Shipping =
40,000 Dollars Cost This
Laser Welder,
I Bought A Transon 3,000 Watts
For 5,000 Total
And Welds, Cut And Rust Remover
100 Times Better Than Lightweld
Laser Welder.
Amén.
😂😂 safety ?? What a bs