I started painting military figures in late '74 when i returned home from my time in Germany - I'd been a serious builder of 1/35th scale armor (Tamiya) but was always frustrated with getting the flesh tones 'right' - one Saturday while I was in Manhattan at the old Soldier Shop., I saw a poster for the North Jersey Military Miniature Associates (NJMMA)...I called 'em and joined 'em within a week...I learned how to use & mix oils from the best at the time - the late Andrei Koribanics (in the NJMMA) and after I moved to FL in '79, from the lat Bob Knee of the Atlanta Soldier Society - (ASS - which has since changed it's name...good to find this channel - I haven't picked up a brush since '86, but still maintain a serious interest in the hobby...
Well I’m glad your here. I knew Andrei Koribanics as well. Met him several time when I went to the Chicago show. I had no idea he’d passed away, so sorry to hear that.😒 My story starts in 1977 when Shep Paines books came out and I’ve been an avid modelling junkie ever since. Glad to have you aboard.👊🏻👊🏻😀
@@SmallSoldier Good to hear from you..Andrei was one of the greats - I was lucky to know him - he freely gave advice and tips - he wasn't one of those artists who was worried about someone becoming better than he was if he guided them in the hobby/art...I still have a little green spiral notebook with his formulas for various colors - have had it since around '77 or so - shows my age...actually met Shep at the 1990 Chicago Show (the only MMSI show I ever made it to) - I had a great job with Sikorsky Aircraft and could afford to travel....after I moved here to FL I found few fellow hobbyists until I heard of Bob Knee who was living in Orlando at the time - I'd call him and we'd talk painting, color mixes, etc for hours - he wound up moving to Hotlanta to be among fellow painters & artists and became a driving force behind the Atlanta Soldier Society - ASS. Still have by 'vast white army' - many kits dating to the 70s (Series 77 & Poste Militaire) along with a collection of bust kits - my new passion...
I love hearing stories like this. I was lucky enough as well to make it to the Chicago show from 96-2000 and met Shep. I was even invited a couple times to his home which was a real treat. He had a real Museum of amazing things such as WW1 uniforms and models from his how to build dioramas book. Very exciting times. When did Andrei pass away? He couldn’t have been very old. And your right, he was very free with his techniques and was very approachable. That’s really why I started this channel. It’s an extension of the hobby store I use to own. I ran classes every Saturday and I really missed sharing with people so this is where I am now. Really enjoying sharing with others again. Thanks for your very interesting backstory!😀👍🏼👍🏼
@@SmallSoldier IIRC he passed away in July of 2016...it was a real shock to be also...he was only in in early 50s...we'd kept in touch over the years even after i moved to FL - I saw him a few times when I went to the Jersey Show s now unfortunately discontinued....the club itself is still active and in on FB, though - I used to look forward to those shows - at one time I was able to get to the old 'Chester' show - before I moved to FL...after I moved, Atlanta & Jersey were the only ones I could afford to attend - (flights/driving especially). I still have the original Pain Diorama book I bought in the 70s - as well as Bob Knee's "How to Paint in Oils" (IIRC that's the correct title) - actually the correct title is 'Color Theory & Application' - I found it when I Googled him - it was mentioned in his April 2007 obituary - the book is out of print and used copies are difficult to find..did you know Chuck Robinson from the 'Red Lancers' who passed away a few months ago??? He was a good guy - most of the figures in my 'vast white army' I bought from him - prolly also bought Knee's book from him...seems like all the painting guys I used to know are leaving us...don't you go anywhere, my friend - I enjoy you channel (subscribed with notifications)...I was lucky to have known or met a number of the premier artists of my day, including Henri Lion (still have his book 'My Way' - from which I learned to mix 'warm' and 'cool' whites)...
Excellent series of videos on painting this particular figure. I have a 120mm U Boat figure standing with his foot resting on a bollard whilst smoking a pipe. I have had if for sometime but never got round to painting it as I didn't think I could do it justice. After watching this I now feel I have the confidence to have a go. Thank you very much for shearing you oil techniques. 👍 As for that base, well that is a work of art too, brilliant.
Thank you Gaz! I'm glad to hear you're going to give it a go and I'm so pleased that my videos have given you the confidence to try. I hope you have great success! Cheers.
Excellent work .i have just returned to modelling after a 25-year gap. It is so refreshing to see you using oil paints as I did in the past. Your work and accompanying videos are superb. Well done Sir.
Thank you very much. Glad your back! Welcome to my channel I hope I can show you a thing or two and entertain as well. We always come back to the things we love.👊👍
Thanks Shane! And thank you for the shoutout and sharing my video. Your support is very much appreciated! I’m glad we’ve had the chance to get to know each other and I look forward to doing something with you in the new year.👍🏼👊🏻👊🏻😀
Thank you for producing this very informative set of videos. These, and the one on painting Alpine Miniatures were extremely helpful, as I have long struggled with painting 1/35 scale figures and have wanted to try oils for some time, but had no idea how to use them. I've subscribed and I look forward to investigating more of your channel over the coming days and weeks.
Wow! Thanks for the "master" tag. :):) I'm not sure if one ever truly becomes a master as I find I learn more with every project finished. I do really appreciate the sentiment though. Cheers!
Hey everyone. Happy holidays! Don't forget to subscribe, like and leave a comment below. Please consider supporting my channel with a small contribution, you can do so here: www.buymeacoffee.com/SmallSoldier It's like Patreon... but simpler. Thanks
I recently made the movie over to oils for figures. Videos like this one is helping me immensely with things like properly mixing and thinning the oils for application. Your work is truly amazing and hope you plan on giving more tutorials with oils. Would love to see you tackle a bust in the future!
Thanks! Yes I have many things planned for the new year and painting a bust is in that cue. I do a bit of everything so as to appeal to a broader audience, well... and I like armour, aircraft and ships. I appreciate your comments and please feel free to ask me anything. I love the interaction with my subscribers, it helps me improve the content.😃😃👊🏻
@@SmallSoldier Also, do you allow the oils to dry between shadows and highlighting? if so would you recommend over night? I'm used to acrylics so i usually go straight to the next shade. Thanks again
Depends on how long of a painting session I get. If time permits I'll go to highlights before the darks are dry. You just don't want to over saturate the figure and end up with highlights or shadows blending each other out. You can also use a heat source to dry in between colours such as a crock pot, that's what I use. !0-15 minutes in the pot will dry the oils sufficiently to continue on. Adding the thinner to the paint also aids in the drying process. If you use oils without thinning they will take a couple days to dry. Hope that helps? If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask... I'm here to help. Cheers.
Never tried Dorland's wax medium. But yes on the crock pot. I use mine all the time on low to dry the oils. I've never left it in overnight though I'd be afraid it would warp or melt the figure. After about a good 15-20 minutes I find the oil is dry, then I have to take it out with a towel as it's too hot to handle. I'm also paranoid about an appliance catching fire without supervision. 😬👍
Awesome! I'm so glad to help. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask... I'm all ears! What type of figures do you prefer? Ara, scale etc.
Cool. I'll be posting a short video tomorrow on how to improve plastic figures. And will soon be doing another figure painting video on the French Blitz-kit officer. Alpine is the gold standard for 1/35th for sure Andrea are very good as well. Lot's of plastic kits are getting better with each release as well. Do you paint any plastics?
Love your presentation of the figure. The base is awesome and evokes a battle tested submarine vibe. I hope to improve my presentation skills along with my painting,
Fantastic skills. As already suggested, it will be very helpful a tutorial on 1/35 figures, especially German black tanker's uniforms - here I find quite difficult to establish the base tone and the shadows.
Thanks pal I really appreciate the friendship we've established. I really like getting to know people in the community and your one of the gems! All the best to you in 2019!👊👊😀
Glad you liked it. Check back in a few days or if your a subscriber as I have a review on some resin 35th figures and one of them will be a tutorial on oils again. 👊🏻😀
By the way, what do you use for thinning your oils... Is something like MIG Ammo or AK Interactive odorless thinner good for this? Also, you're the first one I saw who paints with even slightly thinned oils... every other oil painter I've watched says "never use thinned oils" :) But I always feel it's too thick to spread, especially with small 1/35 scale figures... So, looking forward to your coming tutorial!
@@hishamaziz3282 Yes those are perfect for thinning. Just remember very little thinner, just enough to get it more fluid. It's all up to you really, whatever works. I just find that thinning it helps make it easier to blend and drys faster. I use to go straight oil but like you said it gets too thick and starts becoming a muck pit. This works for me as you can tell and I've never gone back to straight oils since. Oh one more thing. Don't try and do it all in one session. Do some shadows and highlights let them dry then go back in a couple more times and bump up the shadows and highlights until there's enough contrast. I wish you success in your figure painting. Cheers!
When you finished the jacket you said that you let it dried for a couple of days, what about the color palette? Did you place it in a plastic bag to avoid prepared shades to dry!? And thanks for this very instructive and helpful video.
Thanks for watching and the kind words. Yes as things are drying I cover the oils with a ziplock bag. I find if the oils get a skin over them I can break off that layer and there's still fresh oil inside. It's usually good for a few days.
Scott, do you "decant" the oils first by putting them on a piece of porous material (cardboard or some such) to allow the excess oil to bleed out? Or do you go directly to your tile palette with the colors directly from their tubes? You mentioned the thinner helps to matt the finish but do you ever require a matt varnish over the entire finished subject? THANKS so much for these GREAT videos.
Yes, I always put the oils on cardboard first for about 20 minutes, some oils like titanium white, for example, need more time. I use the thinner to help the oils dry a little faster and to make the oil a little more fluid. When I first started using oils I'd go with straight unthinned paint but found that they would end up too thick and the finish wasn't as smooth. I do use a matt varnish from time to time on some colours such as dark shades, these tend to go a little glossy. Thanks for your nice comments, I'm so glad you're enjoying my content and I'm hoping to put the next one out this coming weekend. It's on painting 35th scale figures in oils. Cheers, Scott
Great job, thanks, you said you did the highlights after letting the figure dry, so why not at the same time? I have come back to modelling after 40+ years away and am trying oils.
Thanks. The reason I let the layers dry is because if you put too much oil paint in one go it can get muddy and too much paint builds up until you have a big mess. Thanks for commenting and watching. Any other questions please feel free to ask. Cheers.
Yes oil paint on this one. I use acrylics as well. I also use a crock pot to help with drying (it's like a small drying oven) A little paint thinner helps things dry faster as well. Thanks for watching and your interest in what I do. 🙂
Amazing paint job. Very impressive!!! I saw all you're video's in one afternoon. ;-) I just discovered you're channel thanks to panzermeister36 and I'm already a big fan. I just have a question. You use winsor& newton oil paints series 2. I also use winsor& newton but series 1. Is there a big difference between these two series?? I always build 1/35 WWII AFV's, figures and small vignettes. I use the oils for weathering the AFV's. My next figure project will be with oils, thanks to your video's. You convinced me to give it a go.Thanks in advance and keep on building and posting!!!
Thanks very much for your feedback. I'm not sure about the series numbers. I have oils ranging from 1-4. As long as your using the Winsor and not the student grade Winton you're fine. Glad to have you aboard and I'm working on a 1/35th painting figures in oils right now and hope to post it this coming weekend. Cheers, Scott
@@SmallSoldier Thanks for you quick response. Looking forward to your 1/35 figure in oils... Tutorials on RUclips learned me a lot and made me to the modeler that I am today with my own methods. But honestly, I like your channel. It's very clear and convincing for me. And I love the humor in between? ;-)Your Günther Prien makes me use oils on figures. Thanks for that. Good luck with everything you do...
Awesome to hear, thanks for your kind words and feedback. I try to make my videos interesting, informative with some humour. I think everyone deserves a little goofiness from time to time. Cheers!
If I’m doing multiple layers I will. The only place I put a final flat coat was on the blue coat as blue oil colours tend to have a sheen once dry. Golden Matt varnish is fantastic. I also put the oils on a piece of cardboard for 10 minutes before I put them on the pallet. This helps to make them more matt.
Hey as always great video, I've learned a wealth of knowledge. Just one question I normally paint with acrylics and use W&N 7s. But now that i have started to use oils with my figures, I don't know what type of brushes are good ? What are you using ? Especially the soft one ?
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying what I do. I use series 7's for the most part but sometimes like to try something new. The soft brushes are made by Princeton. They're the velvet touch series and they're Filbert brushes. I've also heard good things about Raphael brushes. Cheers!
@@worldwarmini3919 I do and have for 20 odd years and have had no issues. Just make sure to use a good quality brush cleaner after each session lie "The Masters", brush cleaner. That's what I use.
Not necessarily. I only take it to a certain point then come back when things have dried. I find that it can become a big murky mess if you get too much paint concentrated in one area. I use to paint like that in the past but found that I lost too much of the contrast so now I let layers dry and work over top in thinner layers so what I’ve painted previously shows through thus giving a much greater depth to my work. I hope that explains things better. Any other questions don’t hesitate to ask. Cheers!
@@SmallSoldier after try the technique myself,recheck your video and other video, it seem there is 2 method of apply paint, apply paint ,blend/spread it out , then the next shadow /highlight , continue blend it out until satisfly like your or Milan Dufek demonstrate . Another method is apply 2 color at once and blend at the middle like in AMPS video or Painting Minitature book . Did i got it correct ?
HL 17 Yes your correct. Both ways work fine. I prefer to add shadows then highlights let it dry then observe my work then go in with thinner glazes to really push the contrast. Also by doing this you end up with less paint on the figure to avoid a massive buildup of paint which can just end up looking muddy. Either way works you just have to find what method you prefer. Good luck and if you have any more questions I’m happy to help. Cheers!
are the oil paints thinned at all ? like you recommend for 1/35. And how close to the uniform colour would you want from the acrylic layer that you airbrush ?
Yes, they are. Thinned with odourless thinner or Liquin depending on what the application is. I would try and get the uniform colour close but it doesn't need to be exact. The underpainting is there as an opaque base so when blending your oils you don't see some odd colour showing through, oils are fairly transparent so you need that similar base tone to hide that issue. Does that make sense?
@@SmallSoldier thanks for the prompt reply and advice. Makes perfect sense. For a future video ........ if i can make a suggestion... can we take a bit more time to focus on the pallet? (probably the aspect of oils that puts most people off / scares them) ie no off the shelf uniform colours. Like focus on Russian pants and the mix of oils you would prepare for the highs and lows (or British jacket / German pants whatever) . I followed what you did for the face tutorial and really surprised myself .... first head since being a kid and using Humbrol flesh for the face and Black for the eyes .. DONE :)
I paint my figures in oils and only watch your videos for instruction and inspiration. Excellent videos!
Right on! Thanks for all your support, much appreciated!
I started painting military figures in late '74 when i returned home from my time in Germany - I'd been a serious builder of 1/35th scale armor (Tamiya) but was always frustrated with getting the flesh tones 'right' - one Saturday while I was in Manhattan at the old Soldier Shop., I saw a poster for the North Jersey Military Miniature Associates (NJMMA)...I called 'em and joined 'em within a week...I learned how to use & mix oils from the best at the time - the late Andrei Koribanics (in the NJMMA) and after I moved to FL in '79, from the lat Bob Knee of the Atlanta Soldier Society - (ASS - which has since changed it's name...good to find this channel - I haven't picked up a brush since '86, but still maintain a serious interest in the hobby...
Well I’m glad your here. I knew Andrei Koribanics as well. Met him several time when I went to the Chicago show. I had no idea he’d passed away, so sorry to hear that.😒 My story starts in 1977 when Shep Paines books came out and I’ve been an avid modelling junkie ever since. Glad to have you aboard.👊🏻👊🏻😀
@@SmallSoldier Good to hear from you..Andrei was one of the greats - I was lucky to know him - he freely gave advice and tips - he wasn't one of those artists who was worried about someone becoming better than he was if he guided them in the hobby/art...I still have a little green spiral notebook with his formulas for various colors - have had it since around '77 or so - shows my age...actually met Shep at the 1990 Chicago Show (the only MMSI show I ever made it to) - I had a great job with Sikorsky Aircraft and could afford to travel....after I moved here to FL I found few fellow hobbyists until I heard of Bob Knee who was living in Orlando at the time - I'd call him and we'd talk painting, color mixes, etc for hours - he wound up moving to Hotlanta to be among fellow painters & artists and became a driving force behind the Atlanta Soldier Society - ASS. Still have by 'vast white army' - many kits dating to the 70s (Series 77 & Poste Militaire) along with a collection of bust kits - my new passion...
I love hearing stories like this. I was lucky enough as well to make it to the Chicago show from 96-2000 and met Shep. I was even invited a couple times to his home which was a real treat. He had a real Museum of amazing things such as WW1 uniforms and models from his how to build dioramas book. Very exciting times. When did Andrei pass away? He couldn’t have been very old. And your right, he was very free with his techniques and was very approachable. That’s really why I started this channel. It’s an extension of the hobby store I use to own. I ran classes every Saturday and I really missed sharing with people so this is where I am now. Really enjoying sharing with others again. Thanks for your very interesting backstory!😀👍🏼👍🏼
@@SmallSoldier IIRC he passed away in July of 2016...it was a real shock to be also...he was only in in early 50s...we'd kept in touch over the years even after i moved to FL - I saw him a few times when I went to the Jersey Show s now unfortunately discontinued....the club itself is still active and in on FB, though - I used to look forward to those shows - at one time I was able to get to the old 'Chester' show - before I moved to FL...after I moved, Atlanta & Jersey were the only ones I could afford to attend - (flights/driving especially). I still have the original Pain Diorama book I bought in the 70s - as well as Bob Knee's "How to Paint in Oils" (IIRC that's the correct title) - actually the correct title is 'Color Theory & Application' - I found it when I Googled him - it was mentioned in his April 2007 obituary - the book is out of print and used copies are difficult to find..did you know Chuck Robinson from the 'Red Lancers' who passed away a few months ago??? He was a good guy - most of the figures in my 'vast white army' I bought from him - prolly also bought Knee's book from him...seems like all the painting guys I used to know are leaving us...don't you go anywhere, my friend - I enjoy you channel (subscribed with notifications)...I was lucky to have known or met a number of the premier artists of my day, including Henri Lion (still have his book 'My Way' - from which I learned to mix 'warm' and 'cool' whites)...
Excellent series of videos on painting this particular figure. I have a 120mm U Boat figure standing with his foot resting on a bollard whilst smoking a pipe. I have had if for sometime but never got round to painting it as I didn't think I could do it justice. After watching this I now feel I have the confidence to have a go. Thank you very much for shearing you oil techniques. 👍 As for that base, well that is a work of art too, brilliant.
Thank you Gaz! I'm glad to hear you're going to give it a go and I'm so pleased that my videos have given you the confidence to try. I hope you have great success! Cheers.
Excellent work .i have just returned to modelling after a 25-year gap. It is so refreshing to see you using oil paints as I did in the past. Your work and accompanying videos are superb. Well done Sir.
Thank you very much. Glad your back! Welcome to my channel I hope I can show you a thing or two and entertain as well. We always come back to the things we love.👊👍
Another fantastic episode mate!
Thanks Shane! And thank you for the shoutout and sharing my video. Your support is very much appreciated! I’m glad we’ve had the chance to get to know each other and I look forward to doing something with you in the new year.👍🏼👊🏻👊🏻😀
This was like watching an episode of Bob Ross painting with all the Titanium White and Prussian Blue!
I’ll take that as high praise. He was a painting god! Thanks buddy.
Thank you for producing this very informative set of videos. These, and the one on painting Alpine Miniatures were extremely helpful, as I have long struggled with painting 1/35 scale figures and have wanted to try oils for some time, but had no idea how to use them. I've subscribed and I look forward to investigating more of your channel over the coming days and weeks.
Thanks, Robert. I'm so glad my videos are helping you to become a better painter. Cheers!
Hi. When I whatch your videos it’s always a good boost. It’ns a very good paint work. You’re a Master
Wow! Thanks for the "master" tag. :):) I'm not sure if one ever truly becomes a master as I find I learn more with every project finished. I do really appreciate the sentiment though. Cheers!
Wow!
I have a lot of things to learn!
This and the others episodes is a great tutorial!
Thank you for sharing.
Your very welcome. And welcome to my channel! I love sharing what I've learned over the years and hope to continue adding value to my subscribers. 🙂
Hey everyone. Happy holidays! Don't forget to subscribe, like and leave a comment below.
Please consider supporting my channel with a small contribution, you can do so here: www.buymeacoffee.com/SmallSoldier
It's like Patreon... but simpler. Thanks
I recently made the movie over to oils for figures. Videos like this one is helping me immensely with things like properly mixing and thinning the oils for application. Your work is truly amazing and hope you plan on giving more tutorials with oils. Would love to see you tackle a bust in the future!
Thanks! Yes I have many things planned for the new year and painting a bust is in that cue. I do a bit of everything so as to appeal to a broader audience, well... and I like armour, aircraft and ships. I appreciate your comments and please feel free to ask me anything. I love the interaction with my subscribers, it helps me improve the content.😃😃👊🏻
@@SmallSoldier Also, do you allow the oils to dry between shadows and highlighting? if so would you recommend over night? I'm used to acrylics so i usually go straight to the next shade. Thanks again
Depends on how long of a painting session I get. If time permits I'll go to highlights before the darks are dry. You just don't want to over saturate the figure and end up with highlights or shadows blending each other out. You can also use a heat source to dry in between colours such as a crock pot, that's what I use. !0-15 minutes in the pot will dry the oils sufficiently to continue on. Adding the thinner to the paint also aids in the drying process. If you use oils without thinning they will take a couple days to dry. Hope that helps? If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask... I'm here to help. Cheers.
Have you ever used either Dorland's Wax Medium or a crock pot (but NOT both at the same time) set on low overnight (uncovered) to dry oils???
Never tried Dorland's wax medium. But yes on the crock pot. I use mine all the time on low to dry the oils. I've never left it in overnight though I'd be afraid it would warp or melt the figure. After about a good 15-20 minutes I find the oil is dry, then I have to take it out with a towel as it's too hot to handle. I'm also paranoid about an appliance catching fire without supervision. 😬👍
Incredible painting! I've just recently got into using oils on my figures. This painting tutorial is helping a ton, thank you. 😁
Awesome! I'm so glad to help. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask... I'm all ears! What type of figures do you prefer? Ara, scale etc.
Thanks! I prefer 1/35th WW2 I usually buy Alpine or Andrea 👍
Cool. I'll be posting a short video tomorrow on how to improve plastic figures. And will soon be doing another figure painting video on the French Blitz-kit officer. Alpine is the gold standard for 1/35th for sure Andrea are very good as well. Lot's of plastic kits are getting better with each release as well. Do you paint any plastics?
Love your presentation of the figure. The base is awesome and evokes a battle tested submarine vibe. I hope to improve my presentation skills along with my painting,
Thanks m8! I’m sure you can do it. It’s all a matter of practice. Good luck and happy painting!🙂🍻
Fantastic skills. As already suggested, it will be very helpful a tutorial on 1/35 figures, especially German black tanker's uniforms - here I find quite difficult to establish the base tone and the shadows.
Thanks Gabriel! Glad to be finished. It was a fun but long project. People seem to like it.👍🏼
@@SmallSoldier Haha! You're funny! People have a REASON to like it ;)
Thanks pal I really appreciate the friendship we've established. I really like getting to know people in the community and your one of the gems! All the best to you in 2019!👊👊😀
Beautiful work!! There is a huge gap on the net as far as tutorials on painting figures with oils.. so, thank you so much for these videos :)
Glad you liked it. Check back in a few days or if your a subscriber as I have a review on some resin 35th figures and one of them will be a tutorial on oils again. 👊🏻😀
Yep.. I'm Egyptian.. and the 122 review got me here.. then I subscribed as soon as I saw "painting figures with oils" :).. Thanks!
By the way, what do you use for thinning your oils... Is something like MIG Ammo or AK Interactive odorless thinner good for this? Also, you're the first one I saw who paints with even slightly thinned oils... every other oil painter I've watched says "never use thinned oils" :) But I always feel it's too thick to spread, especially with small 1/35 scale figures... So, looking forward to your coming tutorial!
@@hishamaziz3282 Right on! Glad to have you aboard sir.
@@hishamaziz3282 Yes those are perfect for thinning. Just remember very little thinner, just enough to get it more fluid. It's all up to you really, whatever works. I just find that thinning it helps make it easier to blend and drys faster. I use to go straight oil but like you said it gets too thick and starts becoming a muck pit. This works for me as you can tell and I've never gone back to straight oils since. Oh one more thing. Don't try and do it all in one session. Do some shadows and highlights let them dry then go back in a couple more times and bump up the shadows and highlights until there's enough contrast. I wish you success in your figure painting. Cheers!
Excellent video!
Thanks.:)
When you finished the jacket you said that you let it dried for a couple of days, what about the color palette? Did you place it in a plastic bag to avoid prepared shades to dry!?
And thanks for this very instructive and helpful video.
Thanks for watching and the kind words. Yes as things are drying I cover the oils with a ziplock bag. I find if the oils get a skin over them I can break off that layer and there's still fresh oil inside. It's usually good for a few days.
Scott, do you "decant" the oils first by putting them on a piece of porous material (cardboard or some such) to allow the excess oil to bleed out? Or do you go directly to your tile palette with the colors directly from their tubes? You mentioned the thinner helps to matt the finish but do you ever require a matt varnish over the entire finished subject? THANKS so much for these GREAT videos.
Yes, I always put the oils on cardboard first for about 20 minutes, some oils like titanium white, for example, need more time. I use the thinner to help the oils dry a little faster and to make the oil a little more fluid. When I first started using oils I'd go with straight unthinned paint but found that they would end up too thick and the finish wasn't as smooth. I do use a matt varnish from time to time on some colours such as dark shades, these tend to go a little glossy. Thanks for your nice comments, I'm so glad you're enjoying my content and I'm hoping to put the next one out this coming weekend. It's on painting 35th scale figures in oils. Cheers,
Scott
Great job, thanks, you said you did the highlights after letting the figure dry, so why not at the same time? I have come back to modelling after 40+ years away and am trying oils.
Thanks. The reason I let the layers dry is because if you put too much oil paint in one go it can get muddy and too much paint builds up until you have a big mess. Thanks for commenting and watching. Any other questions please feel free to ask. Cheers.
Excellent miniature model. You use oil painting? Since it doesn't dry quick, how come it does stain and get ruined?
Yes oil paint on this one. I use acrylics as well. I also use a crock pot to help with drying (it's like a small drying oven) A little paint thinner helps things dry faster as well. Thanks for watching and your interest in what I do. 🙂
Amazing paint job. Very impressive!!! I saw all you're video's in one afternoon. ;-) I just discovered you're channel thanks to panzermeister36 and I'm already a big fan. I just have a question. You use winsor& newton oil paints series 2. I also use winsor& newton but series 1. Is there a big difference between these two series?? I always build 1/35 WWII AFV's, figures and small vignettes. I use the oils for weathering the AFV's. My next figure project will be with oils, thanks to your video's. You convinced me to give it a go.Thanks in advance and keep on building and posting!!!
Thanks very much for your feedback. I'm not sure about the series numbers. I have oils ranging from 1-4. As long as your using the Winsor and not the student grade Winton you're fine. Glad to have you aboard and I'm working on a 1/35th painting figures in oils right now and hope to post it this coming weekend. Cheers, Scott
@@SmallSoldier Thanks for you quick response. Looking forward to your 1/35 figure in oils... Tutorials on RUclips learned me a lot and made me to the modeler that I am today with my own methods. But honestly, I like your channel. It's very clear and convincing for me. And I love the humor in between? ;-)Your Günther Prien makes me use oils on figures. Thanks for that. Good luck with everything you do...
Awesome to hear, thanks for your kind words and feedback. I try to make my videos interesting, informative with some humour. I think everyone deserves a little goofiness from time to time. Cheers!
Possibly a future video idea - WW2 German winter white?? Those are a challenge.
Yes, good one. If you watch the Popeye video I touch on that when I paint his sailors cap.
Superb!...Missed how you painted the eyes though
I didn't show that in this one but will be doing a 1/10th scale bust soon and will demonstrate eyes in that video. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
What series of brushes do you use for oils? It looks like Windsor Newton series....
Yes your correct. Series 7 for the most part.
Great videos!, you sir have earned my subscription. One question for you, do you periodically clear the paint out of the blending brush?
Yes, off-camera on a blue (lint free) shop towel. then a full clean at the end of the painting session. Thanks for the sub. Cheers!
Do you use a final finish coat to seal the colors once it is dry?
If I’m doing multiple layers I will. The only place I put a final flat coat was on the blue coat as blue oil colours tend to have a sheen once dry. Golden Matt varnish is fantastic. I also put the oils on a piece of cardboard for 10 minutes before I put them on the pallet. This helps to make them more matt.
Hey as always great video, I've learned a wealth of knowledge. Just one question I normally paint with acrylics and use W&N 7s. But now that i have started to use oils with my figures, I don't know what type of brushes are good ? What are you using ? Especially the soft one ?
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying what I do. I use series 7's for the most part but sometimes like to try something new. The soft brushes are made by Princeton. They're the velvet touch series and they're Filbert brushes. I've also heard good things about Raphael brushes. Cheers!
@@SmallSoldier so it's ok to use delicate watercolor brushes with abrasive enamel/spirit thinners? Thanks again !
@@worldwarmini3919 I do and have for 20 odd years and have had no issues. Just make sure to use a good quality brush cleaner after each session lie "The Masters", brush cleaner. That's what I use.
May i ask, why did you have to wait until the shadow completely dry before apply highlight ?, isn't it easier to blend when the paint still wet ?
Not necessarily. I only take it to a certain point then come back when things have dried. I find that it can become a big murky mess if you get too much paint concentrated in one area. I use to paint like that in the past but found that I lost too much of the contrast so now I let layers dry and work over top in thinner layers so what I’ve painted previously shows through thus giving a much greater depth to my work. I hope that explains things better. Any other questions don’t hesitate to ask. Cheers!
@@SmallSoldier after try the technique myself,recheck your video and other video, it seem there is 2 method of apply paint, apply paint ,blend/spread it out , then the next shadow /highlight , continue blend it out until satisfly like your or Milan Dufek demonstrate . Another method is apply 2 color at once and blend at the middle like in AMPS video or Painting Minitature book . Did i got it correct ?
HL 17 Yes your correct. Both ways work fine. I prefer to add shadows then highlights let it dry then observe my work then go in with thinner glazes to really push the contrast. Also by doing this you end up with less paint on the figure to avoid a massive buildup of paint which can just end up looking muddy. Either way works you just have to find what method you prefer. Good luck and if you have any more questions I’m happy to help. Cheers!
Being color blind all that paint on palette is a nightmare for me.
Yeah, that’s tough.😬
are the oil paints thinned at all ? like you recommend for 1/35. And how close to the uniform colour would you want from the acrylic layer that you airbrush ?
Yes, they are. Thinned with odourless thinner or Liquin depending on what the application is. I would try and get the uniform colour close but it doesn't need to be exact. The underpainting is there as an opaque base so when blending your oils you don't see some odd colour showing through, oils are fairly transparent so you need that similar base tone to hide that issue. Does that make sense?
@@SmallSoldier thanks for the prompt reply and advice. Makes perfect sense. For a future video ........ if i can make a suggestion... can we take a bit more time to focus on the pallet? (probably the aspect of oils that puts most people off / scares them) ie no off the shelf uniform colours. Like focus on Russian pants and the mix of oils you would prepare for the highs and lows (or British jacket / German pants whatever) . I followed what you did for the face tutorial and really surprised myself .... first head since being a kid and using Humbrol flesh for the face and Black for the eyes .. DONE :)
Q: Which medium you prefer oils or acrylics ?
No preference. I go with how I'm feeling at the time of each new project.
All so how you paint WW2 1/35 Figurs
I’ll be doing a segment on that in the new year as well. It will be covered in my channel update coming soon.
How about a 120mm or a 1/10 bust say a Napoleonic period.
We will see how my schedule works out. Those are great suggestions btw. Thanks.
wawoo~~ perfectable.
military plamodel hobby captain!
How is it possible? 1/35scale ??
Thank you. This is a 90mm figure.