DIY Solder Fume Extractor - battery powered

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  • Опубликовано: 26 окт 2024

Комментарии • 25

  • @izemanevobike
    @izemanevobike 6 лет назад +3

    nice design. i printed it all as well, and ordered all the parts. some suggestions: you could add standoffs for the lcd meter and there is no need for screw nuts. you can "drill" the screws directly into the plastic. works perfectly fine.

    • @AndrewMurphy8383
      @AndrewMurphy8383 5 лет назад

      how are u going to hold the pc fan if u dont have nuts and screws

  • @DanielRicardo42
    @DanielRicardo42 4 года назад +4

    You should really add a proper wiring diagram to the Instructables page

  • @joebroderi
    @joebroderi 3 года назад +1

    Components parts need to be described more clearly as the parts links have multiple versions of listed parts and it is not clear which one to buy. A wiring diagram would make life a lot easier too. Otherwise a nice design, thank you.

  • @markgreco1962
    @markgreco1962 5 лет назад +2

    This is so nice!! I’m making 2 for sure.

  • @rossedwards6503
    @rossedwards6503 4 года назад +2

    A couple of people mentioned using a protection freewheeling diode at step up converter output - can someone confirm if this is indeed required and where exactly to connect it if so?

  • @joetke
    @joetke 5 лет назад +1

    One of the best around. Thank you. It helped!

  • @juanluisvillacorta6238
    @juanluisvillacorta6238 6 лет назад +1

    Looks nice, the orange color is so retro, like a Nasa prop

  • @WarthogARJ
    @WarthogARJ 3 года назад

    Thanks for this.
    But I think the design is not ideal: why make it completely dependent on battery power? If you are extracting solder fumes then there MUST be an easy nearby source of power. I can see advantages of allowing it to be mobile, but surely 99% of the time it CAN be connected to AC.
    I think it would be better to have an AC connection that ran the fan, and recharged the battery if needed. Lithium batteries are not degraded by continual charging after all, and you can get a BMS that only charges them when they need it as well.
    In addition, I think it would be a nice addition to add a sensor that detects fumes (there are many cheap ones that can detect "air quality", as in particulate matter), and that would turn the fan onto high until the fumes were low enough to reduce the RPM. It would be a bit like the "raindrop" auto turnon function on modern car windshield wipers.
    In addition, why base it on a 120mm fan? There is not any size limitation as when placed in a computer. In general you are better off with as big a diameter fan as you can get, running at lower RPM.
    And it would be good to do some aerodynamic calcs to support the choice of airflow, and that then shows the best size fan to get, and RPM to use. For optimum use, you want laminar flow, and as low RPM as you can use (for lowest noise). Afterall, this is not your typical fain situation: you are not trying to cool anything, but rather encourage a gentle flow to draw away any fumes produced: both particulate and solvent gas based.
    In addition, you need to make a choice if you are trying to extract the fumes at source, or else prevent them from getting to the User. either choice can be effective.

  • @simonevalmacco8126
    @simonevalmacco8126 6 лет назад +3

    Very nice project! which battery meter is the right one? on the seller webpage I could see 1S, 2S, 3S, 4S model...

    • @Malectrics
      @Malectrics  6 лет назад +2

      Simone Valmacco you need the 1s version

    • @simonevalmacco8126
      @simonevalmacco8126 6 лет назад +1

      thank you very much!! :)

    • @simonevalmacco8126
      @simonevalmacco8126 6 лет назад +1

      Sorry, another question; did you print it vertically? if yes why?

  • @rogsoll
    @rogsoll 6 лет назад

    Do you need all the electric parts? I have only batteries, power switch and fan. I have a strange error. All ok when I twist the cable together,the fan blow but when I attach the switch i can only power on, when power of and on again the fan don´t start, i have to twist apart the cable and back again to make it work. Only power on. I have try other switch with negative result.

    • @Malectrics
      @Malectrics  6 лет назад

      If you are only using a single cell battery (3.7V) you need the step up convereter board to make it 12V. The fan does not work at only 3.7V. Or it is barely enough to spin the fan. That could be your error.

    • @rogsoll
      @rogsoll 6 лет назад

      Malectrics Thank you.I have 3 batteries, and they messure 12v together.

  • @Circuitoptimize23
    @Circuitoptimize23 6 лет назад +2

    Look like 💗 awesome 🌟

  • @fellpower
    @fellpower 8 месяцев назад

    SO many potential for a good make - but hotglue is a NOGO

  • @wallaguest1
    @wallaguest1 6 лет назад +1

    do you sell it mounted? i want it already finished

    • @Malectrics
      @Malectrics  6 лет назад +1

      Sorry, I dont sell these.

  • @academiereparation3662
    @academiereparation3662 3 года назад

    your tiny url doesn't work

  • @tarassu
    @tarassu 6 лет назад +3

    Safety hazard - this is not real activated carbon. Activated carbon is not flexible rubbery plasticy thing. It's like charcoal.

    • @Malectrics
      @Malectrics  6 лет назад +4

      They sell these matts in electronic stores as replcament filters for commercial solder fume extractors. So i think it should filter fine.

    • @FuchsHorst
      @FuchsHorst 5 лет назад +1

      Activated Carbon in its original form is unusable for filtering air in common air filters of all kind. Either you break it in small parts using a frame to hold all tiny flakes of carbon or you spray carbon powder on top of a foam - the later is done here. It‘s foam that was sprayed with activated carbon powder. If you want to enhance the solution, try adding a HEPA filter and/or route the exhaust to the outside by using a tube

    • @davidbolha
      @davidbolha 3 года назад +1

      A HEPA filter from a vaccuuming machine would be a better choice I think. 🤔