Do you shoot Long Exposures? What filters do you use?? Full links in description - but here is my top choice: bhpho.to/2F4Ms34 | geni.us/SBrAX Most Overpriced: bhpho.to/2F4XMfT $13 bargain: geni.us/BQSf Best under $100: bhpho.to/2BYpFSV | geni.us/2utZ7D The YELLOW surprise... bhpho.to/2C09bJF | geni.us/EjBV Filter remover tool: bhpho.to/2BVkcfn | geni.us/aTZ9N7
Been a working pro for 30 years, and I have NEVER used a filter system as good as the one from Breakthrough. A innovative and friendly company, and I'll never go back! (And, oddly in contrast to your review of their filters, I found absolutely no color shift with the N2....not sure why there would be differences). Keep up the great reviews, Matt!
Not in my view, in my view it's a waste of time. Just use a flash and grey card and measure the real rgb value in Photoshop with the color picker. This is random nonsense.
It seems like gear comparison reviews like this have fallen out of style, which is a shame. This was a great comparison of ND filters and I literally just recently bought the B+W (110) basically based on the brand because the reviews for ND filters I found were old, or just not very informative (lack of sample images and such). Good job, not a super exciting video but I love it. Keep up the great work :)
5:24 Polar Pro Quartz Line - Brass, multi-coated, thin, great sharpness and minimal color cast, expensive 6:12 B+W Select - vignetting, ok color - Matt may have confused this with MRC110? not sure 7:14 Formatt Hitech Firecrest - coated, loss of sharpness 7:39 F Stop Labs - coated, aluminum, cool color cast, and loss of sharpness 8:28 Breakthrough Photography X2 - Green Shift 9:05 Breakthrough Photography X4 - TOP CHOICE, Brass, Great Grip, Weather sealed 9:45 Hoya Solas IRND - Cuts IR, Non-Coated, Good Color, some vignetting, slight loss of sharpness 10:28 Formatt Hitech Firecrest ULTRA - $$$, yellow cast, thin 10:57 ICE - Blue cast, same as F Stop Labs 11:11 Heliopan 10 - de-saturated, closer to 10.5 stops 11:46 Tiffen XLE AXENT - Specifically to cut IR, yellow cast, not recommended 12:37 B+W MRC110 - Color shift, vignetting 12:57 B+W XS-PRO MRC Nano - 2nd Place, Wider might not fit hood, fantastic color overall 13:24 SINGH-RAY Mor Slo ND10 - Expensive, not a good value 14:09 Newer Slim 77 - Blue color cast, not sharp
I do a fair amount of long exposure photography. I used a bunch of different cheapie brands of screw on filters for my various lenses for the first few years when I was dabbling in this style. Eventually though I went to square/rectangular filters. I have cobbled together various brands to get to my current set up. I use a Nisi filters frame system because it has a built in polarizer, a WalkingWay 10 stop glass filter and a set of Zomei resin filters for the grads and coloured effects. Works very well for me but installing and removing the whole set up takes quite a bit of time every time you use it. When I shoot this way it's usually the only type of shots I intend to take on the outing. I will also shoot the same spot or area many times over months or even years. For casual users the screw ons are fairly quick to install and remove but you lose the option of being able to stack filters and being able to use graduated filters to knock down the sky. I did find it easy enough to adjust white balance in post with the cheapie screw on filters when I started with this technique but the current set up requires very little if any white balance adjustment.
Matt, thank you SOOO much for going through an extensive list of ND filters. Many of us would love to be able to do such a comparison but obviously, the wallet would disagree. You saved us from spending where we shouldn't and offered different levels of glass-depending on the said wallet. MUCH MUCH appreciated, sir! (and ditto for all the links too)
I can attest the Breakthrough x4 10-stop is amazing. There's no color shift, it's natural and tack-sharp. Furthermore, I've stacked it on their X4 CPL with my 20mm and got no vignetting at all -- it's worth the money!
Great video! I really appreciate how you took the time to double check to ensure the filters that were off were given the chance to show it wasn't a camera abnormality. Builds a lot of credibility taking the time to do that. And I am not just saying that because I have the X4, ha! I think this shows how like most things in life you get what you pay for but the most expensive usually isn't always the best and depending on where on the value curve you want to fall, there can be good choices at every price range.
Overall I think I like the Hoya filter the best, seems to be a nice middle ground and not too expensive. Great stuff Matt, keep these practical comparisons and tutorials coming.
Regarding filter jamming, the culprit is thermal expansion. Brass has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion than aluminum. Cooling the lens should free a jammed filter, but a filter wrench is usually quicker (if you have one).
Thanks, Matt. One ND filter might upset the 'you get what you pay for maxim.' I bought an Aurora Aperture PowerND 4000 12-stop filter last year off eBay for about $40-50 bucks for a 62mm. Definitely no loss of sharpness and no discernable vingetting or color shift.
@@mattgranger Took exactly the same shot on a tripod with a manual lens with and without the filter attached. Could not detect even the slightest loss of sharpness on full frame A7 raw at 100%. I'd be happy to send you a 100% crop of with and without. (and also a full before and after shot to show lack of vingetting and color shift).
I use Hoya, it was nice to know you've mentioned its of decent quality for a reasonable price, I've got into one exposures over the last 2 years and started to collect various nd types from them, and most prober by keep with them for now and the near future.
My first ND filter experience was bargain basement plastic to fit Cokin holders. Experience showed that colour cast varied with lighting conditions and exposure length. These quickly were consigned to the bin! Now I use 3, 6 and 10 stop 77mm filters from Gobe, mostly no noticeable colour cast or loss of sharpness and the price is towards the lower end so I'm well pleased. As a bonus the company plant 5 trees for every filter sold. They do make several grades, I picked the middle one after much time on RUclips AND I bought filter wrenches (never needed yet) There seem to be so many of these filters on offer it is difficult to decide but I tend to agree that you only get what you pay for up to a point.
I created a camera profile for mine with the ND on (and off), so the colours look the same both ways. It’s quite interesting to see the differences between the ones you’ve tested, thanks
I use GOBE 2 Peak filters and I like them, they're not the cheapest but still affordable, so that if one breaks I won't feel too sorry for it. I will try 3 Peak (which supposedly should be the better ones with SHOTT glass) with my new Tamron 24-70 G2
I use GOBE filters (2 peak) as well and have been satisfied with their performance and they also come with Lifetime warranties. I was hoping to see them included in this test.
This is the right way to help us amateur photographers make the right decisions in purchasing gear, thanks Matt, would love if you could make a follow up for slide down/in filter system, like Lee and the like, love your channel.
If you go up the F-Stops you have F2, F2.8,... F22, F32. Now, if you take a look 1/3 up, you get: F2.2, F3.2,... F25, F45 F2.2 -> F22; F3.2 -> F32, F6.3 -> F63, F9 -> F90 etc! Gotta love 'em cheat sheets!
Thanks for the shootout Matt. I'm a bit sad you didn't use NiSi too, but I understand that you can't test every brand. I found them to be the best in my tests for color, sharpness and while Haida was good too they were flaring much more when pointed at the sun (I used Haida, LEE, B+W, NiSi).
I use a few filters, but only when necessary. The two filters I use the most are my variable Polarizing Filter (or obvious reasons) and 10-Stop ND filter (Long Exposures). I opted for the screw-mount option B+W filters. The polarizer is fantastic. The 10-stop ND does a really nice job but does require some color correction at the end as it has a mild green color cast. A quick move to magenta on the slider in LR usually does the trick with relative ease. Both filters were under $150 a piece.
Great video, I am currently looking for a circular polarizer filter and I am almost feeling overwhelmed as there is so many on the market ranging from cheap to really expensive.
Waiting for my filter in the mail, if taking it off is a pain like taking a filter off my drone, I wrap an elastic band around the filter and grip it that way and the filter comes off easy
Nice review! I have a Hoya 4 stop ND which has been serving me well, I might look at the 10 stop too eventually. My current 10 stop has some pretty noticeable blue-green colour cast, but it can be mostly corrected for with white balance adjustments.
I am glad it isn't just me thinking that the Breakthrough filters are damn good. I have been using them ever since I found them on Kickstarter. Amazing filters. Loved this review.
My college roommate bought the Singh Ray ND at $400ish and I was so impressed with the color shifting. Later, I found that Breakthrough Photography boldly claim that they are even better than Singh Ray and I was willing to give it a try. Surprisingly, there are barely any difference at a significantly low price tag. Now I happily own their 3-stop ND-CPL, 6-stop ND-CPL and 10-stop ND all at 82mm to match my Sony FE16-35mm f2.8 GM or downsize to my other 77mm 72mm lens using step-up ring adapters. Their ND + CPL combination for 3 and 6 stop is a no brainer, simply way cheaper to buy two separate filters and usually the ideal situation is to use both CPL and ND at the same time, if you don't want the polarized image simply rotate out and you can still easily see the cancel out effect because of 3 and 6 stops.
Very nice job.... and interesting results, could you please do a similar comparison with the 100mm square systems? I know that the system itself has a price impact, however is a one of and pretty much interchangeable.. I would love to see the likes of Lee, Cockin, Nisi, Haida, Hitech, and a few more... reasons for the 100mm system rather than the screw on is their versatility of stacking multiple filters and not having to mess about with the actual process of screwing the filters in the first place and avoiding to have to touch the lens once it has been adjusted for focus..... I regularly do exposures in excess of 600 seconds, quite often 1200, 1800 seconds that have more significant, impactful, issues with IR, colour casting etc...
Before watching this video I was gonna go with the Breakthrough X2 filter but you pointed out that it was not nearly as good as their X4 version. Now, the X4 was a bit out of my budget so I got the Nisi pro nano IRND filter instead, which is cheaper than even the X2 but works fantastic. To my amateur eyes it has an ever so slight magenta cast and no visible loss of sharpness. You should give it a try.
Great review. I use Lee 100mm and 150mm systems because of greater creative control but there are times that the simplicity and lack of bulk of screw in filters are attractive. It has always amazed me the vast differences in filter quality and performance from brand to brand.
I tried to do a similar test and doing this in the field instead of in a controlled setting is a crap shoot. Unless there is a super strong cast you can take two images with the same filter and end up with different colors when you manually set the WB. You can even remove all the filters and do it with the naked lens and the colors can still vary based on changing light conditions. Even if the light looks stable it often isn't especially if there are clouds. I still enjoyed the video and found it valuable. It caught massive shifts in color.
Thank you for this nice comparison review. I use one specifically to eliminate the crowd in touristic areas. Works well for people that are passing by, less with those that are slacking 😅
A small tip, for those who don't have filter wrenches... a rubber band works in most cases too if you get a stuck filter. Just make sure you get one that's about 1/4" in width so you can grip it (thicker is better, like 1/2" but it needs to be big enough you can grip it. This has worked about 95% of the times when I've had a stuck filter. Only one time I had to use an actual adjustable wrench because I was traveling and there were no camera stores around, but there was a walmart.... Anyway, I don't know if the MRC (multi-coated) vs SC (single coated) matters too much, but the 10-stop B+W I had which was single coated, unfortunately, had a heavy brownish-red color cast. Of course, that was uncorrected and using auto WB, but it was a bit disappointing. I guess in the end, the filter was only about $70 so I wont complain too much (not like it was a $200 filter) but I have stopped using it and am in search of a replacement 10--stop ND filter. I mean if you're OK with color corrected in post, then the 10-stop MRC 110 B+W filter can be OK, but for me, I don't like to have to screw around with color or WB too much in post (I like the ND to be as neutral as possible). Obviously the Hoya would annoy the crap out of me and personally, I wouldn't want any of that burnt into my image.
Thanks for taking the time to test out all those filters. Glad to see I've had money well spent. Been using Breakthrough's X4 filters for years now and love them. While ND filters are expensive, I look at it the same as purchasing a tripod, buy a good one from the start and you'll end up saving in the long run. Singray must have a great marketing team though to still be in business selling their way over priced filters. But then again there are those who think it's the most expensive so it's got to be the best.
10:59 "Ice branded one" Come on. That's just some chinese dude with a printer who buys no-name filters and slaps them in his homemade packaging. It's in the comic sans font!
Matt, I take my photography seriously, and this video is spot on. I went through the same testing routine with the Nikon D810 and found that the best choice is the X4 in terms of minimal color shift and build quality. Keep up the good work. Bravo!
Would have been nice to see a side-by-side for this. Also I'd love to see a similar comparison for circular polarizers. With ND filters, you can always get the same image by taking lots of shots and stacking them together, so I've found myself using ND filters less these days. Circular polarizers on the other hand I still use fairly often.
I use the Breakthrough magnetic system. I really like it because you can screw on the holder, frame the shot and get a test exposure then simply snap on the filter and away you go
Brilliant info'... and great work.. I am putting myself in your position of actually being out there.. with a stack of filters - testing each one - making notes - double checking.. swapping each one - making more notes - remembering the order of events to make your video . phew !... well done... really enjoyed.. Cheers from Dj.
Really interesting and well researched video. I'm dipping my toes into using filters for landscape photography and am going to buy a 10 stop ND filter very soon. I like the 100mm format but so expensive.
I'd say it's worth it. I have a 100mm system with adapters that fit on lenses with different diameters. This allows me to use the same filters on my 58 mm diameter & 67 mm diameter lenses. If you have any lenses with larger diameters you may want to consider a 150 mm system.
Thanks Matt. I did my own research (reviews on the web) and settled on the Breakthrough 4X 10 and 6 stop. I feel good that you came to the same conclusion with your detail testing. I started my ND filter experience with a variable ND from Promaster and was immediately disappointed.
Interesting. A practical comparison. Might have been interesting to do some other tests, such as with a bright point light off center to check for internal reflections, as well as dispersion.
Great video. I wish I had seen this a year ago. I bought the Tiffen 82mm ND3.0 ten stop filter but have been very unhappy with it as I always get a strong amber colour cast. Now I see you had exactly the same issue with the Tiffen example you tested I feel a lot better as I thought it was down to my technique and inability to white balance correctly. I will have to try to sell it on and buy the X4 in its place.
Thank you, Matt, for this review. I've been using Breakthrough filters and have been thinking of switching to a less expensive brand. BUT this just reinforced that I have made the right decision from the start.
I have variable Gobe filter. If you plan on doing variable filters then please do that. But I guess variable will be much longer to do, trying to show low, mid and high range.
Good comparison video. I have a bw 10 stop and PolarPro 16 stop. A little pricey yes but the quality supports it. Needles to say I won’t need anything else but a 3 stop (maybe) in the future
Stop the video for each of the 10 filters. Look on the right side of each frame for each filter and you will notice a color shift for each except the B+W high end and the Polar Pro Quartz line. The much touted Break Through X4 has a purple/ blue cast on the right side of the frame compared to the middle and left side of the frame.
After watching the video comparison with the sound muted, and keeping a multi-window set-up for comparing as I go along, noting what dazzled my eyes and what did not, my final three were.. lol,, believe it or not, in order from third place to first: B+W XS Pro Breakthrough X4 (did not like the X2 at all) and my personal Favorite was Hoya-Solas IRND haha! same picks! 😍 There were a few filters that I thought were interesting for their effects, but I was going for natural light color, trying to balance softness of shadows with sharpness of contrast. I would be happy to own any of the above mentioned three. I do not know the price on them yet.
Great comparison - for threaded, I’ve used the B+W Pro Nano, but for my Nikkor 14-24, the 150mm square Lee or Cokin filters. Would love to see a comparison of those (and other brands) vs. the threaded filters. Thanks, Matt!
Hi Matt, Haida NanoPro on my Nikon D810 are amazing absolutely no colour cast and no loss of sharpness at 6 and even at 10 stops, I haven't tried there 12 or 15 stop ..... yet but there great. I can't comment on how good the screw in frames are as I only have the 150mm square slide in ones but the coatings on the glass ( not plastic/resin) are the same.
I have a few filters from Breakthrough, and I do think they perform well optically! In particular, the circular polarizer. Although I will say that I have to use the wrench almost every time to remove the brass CPL from the brass step up ring I attach it to. Maybe I should use aluminum step up rings.
Another fab video that's super helpful, I expect to buy a Breakthrough x4 filter soon once I've decided on the strength, beautiful filters but its not like you can keep 3 or 4 at that price but worth the money it seems, thanks Matt
Hi Matt, thanks. 2-3 questions... 1. Did you also try Hoya ND1000 77 mm. I have one and think that it has a very warm colorcast to be difficult to fix in post? 2. Should we cover the eyepiece while using 10 stop NDs to mitigate colorcast? 3. Can you suggest tips/workflow to fix ND generated warm colorcasts?
if shooting outdoor on a bright sunny day, better avoid cheap one, mine cheap ND filter was exposed to heat and the glass (or maybe plastic) bent slightly, causing a very heavy dark area on random frame.. i learnt my lesson
I would love to see the exact same test done with all the 100x100 filters with filter holders. I have a Lee 10 stop filter that I really like but it would be nice to see how it stacks up with others. It would be very easy to test them since all you would have to do is setup the camera, slip the filters into the holder and shot and then the next shot you wouldn't need to reset the camera focus or timer.
Thanks for the comparison. You really didn't say much about the polarPro, but it sounds like it performed well. I know all the other brands, but not this one. Can you expand on the polarPro a little more? I really like their claims about durability but I'm not sure about the brand.
Having now come back from a trip after using my Breakthrough Photography X4 10-stop ND filter, compared to the images where I didn't use a filter, it's not really noticeable, and I'd say in some cases, not even at 100% in Photoshop. Very please with those filters, although they are not cheap, but when it comes to filters (ND's at least) cost does somewhat indicate quality (not exactly the same for CPLs as there are some cheaper CPLs that perform just as good as the expensive ones -- ones that are $100+).
Just wondering. One filter had longer times. Did you check if the multipliers of them were correct? There is an app that can calculate the ND-factor from calculated exposure times... In my opinion one element that needs to be considered as most of the filters have less than what they claim!
Really good presentation. I'm still a fairly new photographer and want to explore long exposure - its definitely an area I would want to keep doing. I do like the idea of the screw on filters as opposed to a whole rig for the square type. My concern though is that right now I have a 58mm lens thread and wouldn't want to invest in a 58mm filter only to perhaps get a different lens later on that is wider and need a new filter. How can a work around such an issue with the screw on filters?
Nice review Matt. Unfortunately, I am in the square filter system paradigm (and it is convenient for me having different size lenses to accommodate). Wonder if you have any thoughts about these to share.
Ive been using Neewer 77MM Neutral Density ND 1000 with auto white balance, i dont get that blue cast you had, prob more of a grey cast but easily adjusted in lightroom
Thanks for a great comparison! Would also love to hear thoughts on the best circular polarizer out there. Using b+w and happy but wonder if I'm keeping up with innovations.
Great video review! Well made, with lots of information. I actually have the breakthrough x4 3 stop and 6 stop. And stack to get 9 stop. Works quite well for me!
Apart from image quality, I think ease of maintenance is a critical factor too. I own a Nikon CPL since long ago, which should be a Hoya OEM. It’s so sticky to clean as comparing to all the very smooth B+W MRC. Agree about brass ring, I can’t use aluminium rings which are driving me nuts!
Hi Matt, do you have any variable ND recommendation? These are even more expensive and 2 glasses may further affect Image quality, I’ve been hesitating. Thanks in advance!
Good comparison, surprised you didn't choose Fotga as a budget option though, their variable NDs are popular for video work and surprisingly good for such a cheap filter.
l use a Formatt Hitech Firecrest 77mm 10 stop. l'm happy with and got it on sale for 65usd at B&H. l also use it with smaller lenses with a step up adapter.
Formatt Firecrest filters aren't polished, hence reduced sharpness. Particularly with telephoto lenses. They released an "ultra" version that's the same but polished to deal with this issue.
I tried Breakthrough X4 ND before. Color and sharpness are great, but I find its flare resistance just average. Some cheaper ND does better in flare resistance.
I've not shot long exposures using filters (just star light, moon light or heavy clouds) but have been lusting after the wine country camera system, having the CPL at the back just makes good sense and well ... Wood! ;-D I'd almost like that Tiffen XLE effect for the occasional artistic shot but definitely not at that price.
Matt Excellent video and a ton of useful information. I use the Cokin Filter System and have been looking at the various 100mm 10 Stop Sq filters that will fit my holder: Cokin and Lee specifically. Any chance of testing these two filters as well as others due to there popularity? Peter
Hi Matt, very interesting, thanks for this video, still one question though, why not trying australian Gobe's brand, they do quite well for a reasonnable pricing ?
Do you shoot Long Exposures? What filters do you use?? Full links in description - but here is my top choice: bhpho.to/2F4Ms34 | geni.us/SBrAX
Most Overpriced: bhpho.to/2F4XMfT
$13 bargain: geni.us/BQSf
Best under $100: bhpho.to/2BYpFSV | geni.us/2utZ7D
The YELLOW surprise... bhpho.to/2C09bJF | geni.us/EjBV
Filter remover tool: bhpho.to/2BVkcfn | geni.us/aTZ9N7
I use the Lee 6x AND 10X 100 MM Square NDs with the Breakthrough Photography X100 holder.
Try the Haida line. Almost no color cast, extremely sharp and quite a bit cheaper than the breakthrough. I've been really impressed with them.
Marumi DHG ND64, great performer for its price.
Matt Granger hh
Been a working pro for 30 years, and I have NEVER used a filter system as good as the one from Breakthrough. A innovative and friendly company, and I'll never go back! (And, oddly in contrast to your review of their filters, I found absolutely no color shift with the N2....not sure why there would be differences). Keep up the great reviews, Matt!
This is the exact type of gear video that is actually helpful for real photographers!
Not in my view, in my view it's a waste of time. Just use a flash and grey card and measure the real rgb value in Photoshop with the color picker. This is random nonsense.
John Smith John Smith umm... what?! How can a “flash and a grey card” (lol) fix the sharpness/clarity problems of a bad filter?
Wtf is a “real photographer” people like you are shitty for the sport
It seems like gear comparison reviews like this have fallen out of style, which is a shame. This was a great comparison of ND filters and I literally just recently bought the B+W (110) basically based on the brand because the reviews for ND filters I found were old, or just not very informative (lack of sample images and such).
Good job, not a super exciting video but I love it. Keep up the great work :)
5:24 Polar Pro Quartz Line - Brass, multi-coated, thin, great sharpness and minimal color cast, expensive
6:12 B+W Select - vignetting, ok color - Matt may have confused this with MRC110? not sure
7:14 Formatt Hitech Firecrest - coated, loss of sharpness
7:39 F Stop Labs - coated, aluminum, cool color cast, and loss of sharpness
8:28 Breakthrough Photography X2 - Green Shift
9:05 Breakthrough Photography X4 - TOP CHOICE, Brass, Great Grip, Weather sealed
9:45 Hoya Solas IRND - Cuts IR, Non-Coated, Good Color, some vignetting, slight loss of sharpness
10:28 Formatt Hitech Firecrest ULTRA - $$$, yellow cast, thin
10:57 ICE - Blue cast, same as F Stop Labs
11:11 Heliopan 10 - de-saturated, closer to 10.5 stops
11:46 Tiffen XLE AXENT - Specifically to cut IR, yellow cast, not recommended
12:37 B+W MRC110 - Color shift, vignetting
12:57 B+W XS-PRO MRC Nano - 2nd Place, Wider might not fit hood, fantastic color overall
13:24 SINGH-RAY Mor Slo ND10 - Expensive, not a good value
14:09 Newer Slim 77 - Blue color cast, not sharp
This is the most significant reasoning of using the internet-guys sharing knowledge skills and ability. Thanks
Sadly, I'm closer to purchasing the $13 Neewer filter than the $13,000 Hasselblad.
😂same
I once farted and a Milk Dud fell out.
I do a fair amount of long exposure photography. I used a bunch of different cheapie brands of screw on filters for my various lenses for the first few years when I was dabbling in this style. Eventually though I went to square/rectangular filters. I have cobbled together various brands to get to my current set up. I use a Nisi filters frame system because it has a built in polarizer, a WalkingWay 10 stop glass filter and a set of Zomei resin filters for the grads and coloured effects. Works very well for me but installing and removing the whole set up takes quite a bit of time every time you use it. When I shoot this way it's usually the only type of shots I intend to take on the outing. I will also shoot the same spot or area many times over months or even years. For casual users the screw ons are fairly quick to install and remove but you lose the option of being able to stack filters and being able to use graduated filters to knock down the sky. I did find it easy enough to adjust white balance in post with the cheapie screw on filters when I started with this technique but the current set up requires very little if any white balance adjustment.
Matt, thank you SOOO much for going through an extensive list of ND filters. Many of us would love to be able to do such a comparison but obviously, the wallet would disagree.
You saved us from spending where we shouldn't and offered different levels of glass-depending on the said wallet.
MUCH MUCH appreciated, sir! (and ditto for all the links too)
I can attest the Breakthrough x4 10-stop is amazing. There's no color shift, it's natural and tack-sharp. Furthermore, I've stacked it on their X4 CPL with my 20mm and got no vignetting at all -- it's worth the money!
Great video! I really appreciate how you took the time to double check to ensure the filters that were off were given the chance to show it wasn't a camera abnormality. Builds a lot of credibility taking the time to do that. And I am not just saying that because I have the X4, ha! I think this shows how like most things in life you get what you pay for but the most expensive usually isn't always the best and depending on where on the value curve you want to fall, there can be good choices at every price range.
Overall I think I like the Hoya filter the best, seems to be a nice middle ground and not too expensive. Great stuff Matt, keep these practical comparisons and tutorials coming.
Regarding filter jamming, the culprit is thermal expansion. Brass has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion than aluminum. Cooling the lens should free a jammed filter, but a filter wrench is usually quicker (if you have one).
Thanks, Matt. One ND filter might upset the 'you get what you pay for maxim.' I bought an Aurora Aperture PowerND 4000 12-stop filter last year off eBay for about $40-50 bucks for a 62mm. Definitely no loss of sharpness and no discernable vingetting or color shift.
How did you test the ‘loss of sharpness’
@@mattgranger Took exactly the same shot on a tripod with a manual lens with and without the filter attached. Could not detect even the slightest loss of sharpness on full frame A7 raw at 100%. I'd be happy to send you a 100% crop of with and without. (and also a full before and after shot to show lack of vingetting and color shift).
I use Hoya, it was nice to know you've mentioned its of decent quality for a reasonable price, I've got into one exposures over the last 2 years and started to collect various nd types from them, and most prober by keep with them for now and the near future.
My first ND filter experience was bargain basement plastic to fit Cokin holders. Experience showed that colour cast varied with lighting conditions and exposure length. These quickly were consigned to the bin! Now I use 3, 6 and 10 stop 77mm filters from Gobe, mostly no noticeable colour cast or loss of sharpness and the price is towards the lower end so I'm well pleased. As a bonus the company plant 5 trees for every filter sold. They do make several grades, I picked the middle one after much time on RUclips AND I bought filter wrenches (never needed yet) There seem to be so many of these filters on offer it is difficult to decide but I tend to agree that you only get what you pay for up to a point.
I created a camera profile for mine with the ND on (and off), so the colours look the same both ways. It’s quite interesting to see the differences between the ones you’ve tested, thanks
I use GOBE 2 Peak filters and I like them, they're not the cheapest but still affordable, so that if one breaks I won't feel too sorry for it. I will try 3 Peak (which supposedly should be the better ones with SHOTT glass) with my new Tamron 24-70 G2
I use GOBE filters (2 peak) as well and have been satisfied with their performance and they also come with Lifetime warranties. I was hoping to see them included in this test.
This is the right way to help us amateur photographers make the right decisions in purchasing gear, thanks Matt, would love if you could make a follow up for slide down/in filter system, like Lee and the like, love your channel.
If you go up the F-Stops you have F2, F2.8,... F22, F32.
Now, if you take a look 1/3 up, you get: F2.2, F3.2,... F25, F45
F2.2 -> F22; F3.2 -> F32, F6.3 -> F63, F9 -> F90 etc!
Gotta love 'em cheat sheets!
Thanks for the shootout Matt. I'm a bit sad you didn't use NiSi too, but I understand that you can't test every brand.
I found them to be the best in my tests for color, sharpness and while Haida was good too they were flaring much more when pointed at the sun (I used Haida, LEE, B+W, NiSi).
I've tried a few 10 stop ND filters and I've found NiSi to be the best in terms of color cast. Granted, it's part of a system and not a screw in type.
I use a few filters, but only when necessary. The two filters I use the most are my variable Polarizing Filter (or obvious reasons) and 10-Stop ND filter (Long Exposures). I opted for the screw-mount option B+W filters. The polarizer is fantastic. The 10-stop ND does a really nice job but does require some color correction at the end as it has a mild green color cast. A quick move to magenta on the slider in LR usually does the trick with relative ease. Both filters were under $150 a piece.
Great video, I am currently looking for a circular polarizer filter and I am almost feeling overwhelmed as there is so many on the market ranging from cheap to really expensive.
I wish I would have known about the filter removal tool earlier on. They are a lifesaver! HNY Matt!
Waiting for my filter in the mail, if taking it off is a pain like taking a filter off my drone, I wrap an elastic band around the filter and grip it that way and the filter comes off easy
Nice review! I have a Hoya 4 stop ND which has been serving me well, I might look at the 10 stop too eventually. My current 10 stop has some pretty noticeable blue-green colour cast, but it can be mostly corrected for with white balance adjustments.
I am glad it isn't just me thinking that the Breakthrough filters are damn good. I have been using them ever since I found them on Kickstarter. Amazing filters. Loved this review.
Robert Dunn yes, I’m glad I learn about this brand now!
You won’t be disappointed.
My college roommate bought the Singh Ray ND at $400ish and I was so impressed with the color shifting. Later, I found that Breakthrough Photography boldly claim that they are even better than Singh Ray and I was willing to give it a try. Surprisingly, there are barely any difference at a significantly low price tag. Now I happily own their 3-stop ND-CPL, 6-stop ND-CPL and 10-stop ND all at 82mm to match my Sony FE16-35mm f2.8 GM or downsize to my other 77mm 72mm lens using step-up ring adapters. Their ND + CPL combination for 3 and 6 stop is a no brainer, simply way cheaper to buy two separate filters and usually the ideal situation is to use both CPL and ND at the same time, if you don't want the polarized image simply rotate out and you can still easily see the cancel out effect because of 3 and 6 stops.
Very nice job.... and interesting results, could you please do a similar comparison with the 100mm square systems? I know that the system itself has a price impact, however is a one of and pretty much interchangeable.. I would love to see the likes of Lee, Cockin, Nisi, Haida, Hitech, and a few more... reasons for the 100mm system rather than the screw on is their versatility of stacking multiple filters and not having to mess about with the actual process of screwing the filters in the first place and avoiding to have to touch the lens once it has been adjusted for focus..... I regularly do exposures in excess of 600 seconds, quite often 1200, 1800 seconds that have more significant, impactful, issues with IR, colour casting etc...
Before watching this video I was gonna go with the Breakthrough X2 filter but you pointed out that it was not nearly as good as their X4 version. Now, the X4 was a bit out of my budget so I got the Nisi pro nano IRND filter instead, which is cheaper than even the X2 but works fantastic. To my amateur eyes it has an ever so slight magenta cast and no visible loss of sharpness. You should give it a try.
Great review. I use Lee 100mm and 150mm systems because of greater creative control but there are times that the simplicity and lack of bulk of screw in filters are attractive. It has always amazed me the vast differences in filter quality and performance from brand to brand.
I tried to do a similar test and doing this in the field instead of in a controlled setting is a crap shoot. Unless there is a super strong cast you can take two images with the same filter and end up with different colors when you manually set the WB. You can even remove all the filters and do it with the naked lens and the colors can still vary based on changing light conditions. Even if the light looks stable it often isn't especially if there are clouds. I still enjoyed the video and found it valuable. It caught massive shifts in color.
Thank you for this nice comparison review. I use one specifically to eliminate the crowd in touristic areas. Works well for people that are passing by, less with those that are slacking 😅
A small tip, for those who don't have filter wrenches... a rubber band works in most cases too if you get a stuck filter. Just make sure you get one that's about 1/4" in width so you can grip it (thicker is better, like 1/2" but it needs to be big enough you can grip it. This has worked about 95% of the times when I've had a stuck filter. Only one time I had to use an actual adjustable wrench because I was traveling and there were no camera stores around, but there was a walmart....
Anyway, I don't know if the MRC (multi-coated) vs SC (single coated) matters too much, but the 10-stop B+W I had which was single coated, unfortunately, had a heavy brownish-red color cast. Of course, that was uncorrected and using auto WB, but it was a bit disappointing. I guess in the end, the filter was only about $70 so I wont complain too much (not like it was a $200 filter) but I have stopped using it and am in search of a replacement 10--stop ND filter. I mean if you're OK with color corrected in post, then the 10-stop MRC 110 B+W filter can be OK, but for me, I don't like to have to screw around with color or WB too much in post (I like the ND to be as neutral as possible). Obviously the Hoya would annoy the crap out of me and personally, I wouldn't want any of that burnt into my image.
Thanks for taking the time to test out all those filters. Glad to see I've had money well spent. Been using Breakthrough's X4 filters for years now and love them. While ND filters are expensive, I look at it the same as purchasing a tripod, buy a good one from the start and you'll end up saving in the long run. Singray must have a great marketing team though to still be in business selling their way over priced filters. But then again there are those who think it's the most expensive so it's got to be the best.
10:59 "Ice branded one"
Come on. That's just some chinese dude with a printer who buys no-name filters and slaps them in his homemade packaging. It's in the comic sans font!
Matt, I take my photography seriously, and this video is spot on. I went through the same testing routine with the Nikon D810 and found that the best choice is the X4 in terms of minimal color shift and build quality. Keep up the good work. Bravo!
Still one of the most helpful videos I have ever seen. Would love to see a similar video just like this for clip-in filters.
Would have been nice to see a side-by-side for this.
Also I'd love to see a similar comparison for circular polarizers. With ND filters, you can always get the same image by taking lots of shots and stacking them together, so I've found myself using ND filters less these days. Circular polarizers on the other hand I still use fairly often.
I use the Breakthrough magnetic system. I really like it because you can screw on the holder, frame the shot and get a test exposure then simply snap on the filter and away you go
One of the best ND reviews I’ve seen.
Brilliant info'... and great work.. I am putting myself in your position of actually being out there.. with a stack of filters - testing each one - making notes - double checking.. swapping each one - making more notes - remembering the order of events to make your video . phew !... well done... really enjoyed.. Cheers from Dj.
Really interesting and well researched video. I'm dipping my toes into using filters for landscape photography and am going to buy a 10 stop ND filter very soon. I like the 100mm format but so expensive.
I'd say it's worth it. I have a 100mm system with adapters that fit on lenses with different diameters. This allows me to use the same filters on my 58 mm diameter & 67 mm diameter lenses. If you have any lenses with larger diameters you may want to consider a 150 mm system.
Thanks Matt. I did my own research (reviews on the web) and settled on the Breakthrough 4X 10 and 6 stop. I feel good that you came to the same conclusion with your detail testing. I started my ND filter experience with a variable ND from Promaster and was immediately disappointed.
Using the Haida system myself, pretty happy with it
Very good IQ, well priced and no colour cast
This is amazing, one of the most useful video I have seen in this area. Thank you so much Matt!
Interesting. A practical comparison. Might have been interesting to do some other tests, such as with a bright point light off center to check for internal reflections, as well as dispersion.
Very nice and helpful comparison. I was hoping to see Gobe in there, since I just got a 16 layer ND1000 for Christmas
Great video. I wish I had seen this a year ago. I bought the Tiffen 82mm ND3.0 ten stop filter but have been very unhappy with it as I always get a strong amber colour cast. Now I see you had exactly the same issue with the Tiffen example you tested I feel a lot better as I thought it was down to my technique and inability to white balance correctly. I will have to try to sell it on and buy the X4 in its place.
Thank you, Matt, for this review. I've been using Breakthrough filters and have been thinking of switching to a less expensive brand. BUT this just reinforced that I have made the right decision from the start.
Without a zoom in comparation for see the different of sharpness i find this mostly useless, but for the rest very professional
Agree. I would have liked to see a sharpness comparison as well.
Great video. I own several Breakthrough filters and they are awesome. I wish they would make a round split ND filter though.
Thanks, very good content. Can there be part2? For slide-in filters?
I have variable Gobe filter. If you plan on doing variable filters then please do that. But I guess variable will be much longer to do, trying to show low, mid and high range.
Good comparison video. I have a bw 10 stop and PolarPro 16 stop. A little pricey yes but the quality supports it. Needles to say I won’t need anything else but a 3 stop (maybe) in the future
You should add the black stone (wine country camera). Been using it and compared with the x4. Find it is just As good but significantly cheaper.
Stop the video for each of the 10 filters. Look on the right side of each frame for each filter and you will notice a color shift for each except the B+W high end and the Polar Pro Quartz line. The much touted Break Through X4 has a purple/ blue cast on the right side of the frame compared to the middle and left side of the frame.
I currently use the Hoya screw-in filters (3 different strengths) and they work pretty well on my Panasonic Lumix for video work.
Great video. I bought the Rangers 8pcs ND kit for $28.99 and they're good enough for me as a hobby.
After watching the video comparison with the sound muted, and keeping a multi-window set-up for comparing as I go along, noting what dazzled my eyes and what did not, my final three were.. lol,, believe it or not, in order from third place to first:
B+W XS Pro
Breakthrough X4 (did not like the X2 at all)
and my personal Favorite was
Hoya-Solas IRND
haha! same picks! 😍
There were a few filters that I thought were interesting for their effects, but I was going for natural light color, trying to balance softness of shadows with sharpness of contrast. I would be happy to own any of the above mentioned three. I do not know the price on them yet.
Thank you, i will go with B+W 82mm XS-Pro Clear MRC-Nano 007 Filter
Great comparison - for threaded, I’ve used the B+W Pro Nano, but for my Nikkor 14-24, the 150mm square Lee or Cokin filters. Would love to see a comparison of those (and other brands) vs. the threaded filters. Thanks, Matt!
Hell yeah! Matt Granger, I am your biggest fan. Pedestrian but rather fascinating.
Hi Matt, Haida NanoPro on my Nikon D810 are amazing absolutely no colour cast and no loss of sharpness at 6 and even at 10 stops, I haven't tried there 12 or 15 stop ..... yet but there great. I can't comment on how good the screw in frames are as I only have the 150mm square slide in ones but the coatings on the glass ( not plastic/resin) are the same.
Great video! I need an ND filter so this comes in really handy :).
Also: *Matt, your sensor is filthy* haha
Nice quick review. I was looking at the breakthrough X4 and this helps me confirm the purchase.
I have a few filters from Breakthrough, and I do think they perform well optically! In particular, the circular polarizer. Although I will say that I have to use the wrench almost every time to remove the brass CPL from the brass step up ring I attach it to. Maybe I should use aluminum step up rings.
Another fab video that's super helpful, I expect to buy a Breakthrough x4 filter soon once I've decided on the strength, beautiful filters but its not like you can keep 3 or 4 at that price but worth the money it seems, thanks Matt
Hi Matt, thanks. 2-3 questions...
1. Did you also try Hoya ND1000 77 mm. I have one and think that it has a very warm colorcast to be difficult to fix in post?
2. Should we cover the eyepiece while using 10 stop NDs to mitigate colorcast?
3. Can you suggest tips/workflow to fix ND generated warm colorcasts?
if shooting outdoor on a bright sunny day, better avoid cheap one, mine cheap ND filter was exposed to heat and the glass (or maybe plastic) bent slightly, causing a very heavy dark area on random frame.. i learnt my lesson
Great work! It's a very good and informative test. I'd like to see one more parameter compared - actual f-stop factor of each filter.
Great video Matt, made my selection a lot easier. Ended up with the top end B+W as I have had a good experience with them in the past.
Nice informative video .
I was interested in knowing how the Hoya performed .
Tiffen filters looked like they are using welding glass
I would love to see the exact same test done with all the 100x100 filters with filter holders. I have a Lee 10 stop filter that I really like but it would be nice to see how it stacks up with others. It would be very easy to test them since all you would have to do is setup the camera, slip the filters into the holder and shot and then the next shot you wouldn't need to reset the camera focus or timer.
Thanks for the comparison. You really didn't say much about the polarPro, but it sounds like it performed well. I know all the other brands, but not this one. Can you expand on the polarPro a little more? I really like their claims about durability but I'm not sure about the brand.
Having now come back from a trip after using my Breakthrough Photography X4 10-stop ND filter, compared to the images where I didn't use a filter, it's not really noticeable, and I'd say in some cases, not even at 100% in Photoshop. Very please with those filters, although they are not cheap, but when it comes to filters (ND's at least) cost does somewhat indicate quality (not exactly the same for CPLs as there are some cheaper CPLs that perform just as good as the expensive ones -- ones that are $100+).
Just wondering. One filter had longer times. Did you check if the multipliers of them were correct? There is an app that can calculate the ND-factor from calculated exposure times... In my opinion one element that needs to be considered as most of the filters have less than what they claim!
Really good presentation. I'm still a fairly new photographer and want to explore long exposure - its definitely an area I would want to keep doing. I do like the idea of the screw on filters as opposed to a whole rig for the square type. My concern though is that right now I have a 58mm lens thread and wouldn't want to invest in a 58mm filter only to perhaps get a different lens later on that is wider and need a new filter. How can a work around such an issue with the screw on filters?
Nice review Matt. Unfortunately, I am in the square filter system paradigm (and it is convenient for me having different size lenses to accommodate). Wonder if you have any thoughts about these to share.
Isn't B+W the contractor for Breakthrough? Breakthrough is made in Germany and uses the same plastic case.
Ive been using Neewer 77MM Neutral Density ND 1000 with auto white balance, i dont get that blue cast you had, prob more of a grey cast but easily adjusted in lightroom
You chose the Hasselblad because it allows longer exposures than 30 seconds? Even beginner cameras have bulb mode
Matt. How's the electronic ND stoppers working in comparison and how is the ND effect effectuated? Less amplification?
Matt, isn't it cheaper in the long run to have a filter system versus a screw-on filter for every lens you want to use a ND filter with?
X4 ND by Breakthrough is excellent. Pricey but it works wonderfully on my GF 20-35.
Thanks for a great comparison! Would also love to hear thoughts on the best circular polarizer out there. Using b+w and happy but wonder if I'm keeping up with innovations.
Great video review! Well made, with lots of information.
I actually have the breakthrough x4 3 stop and 6 stop. And stack to get 9 stop. Works quite well for me!
Apart from image quality, I think ease of maintenance is a critical factor too. I own a Nikon CPL since long ago, which should be a Hoya OEM. It’s so sticky to clean as comparing to all the very smooth B+W MRC. Agree about brass ring, I can’t use aluminium rings which are driving me nuts!
Hi Matt, do you have any variable ND recommendation? These are even more expensive and 2 glasses may further affect Image quality, I’ve been hesitating. Thanks in advance!
Mike D yeah I know. It seems I have to get both if I insist the best and productivity in both sides...
Used B+W for a while, and they were good, but honestly Breakthrough is better and I'm happy I switched.
Good comparison, surprised you didn't choose Fotga as a budget option though, their variable NDs are popular for video work and surprisingly good for such a cheap filter.
Cheers, but This isn’t a ‘video work’ video
l use a Formatt Hitech Firecrest 77mm 10 stop. l'm happy with and got it on sale for 65usd at B&H. l also use it with smaller lenses with a step up adapter.
Glad the Hoya is priced well, liked the shot immediately
Formatt Firecrest filters aren't polished, hence reduced sharpness. Particularly with telephoto lenses. They released an "ultra" version that's the same but polished to deal with this issue.
I tried Breakthrough X4 ND before. Color and sharpness are great, but I find its flare resistance just average. Some cheaper ND does better in flare resistance.
I've not shot long exposures using filters (just star light, moon light or heavy clouds) but have been lusting after the wine country camera system, having the CPL at the back just makes good sense and well ... Wood! ;-D
I'd almost like that Tiffen XLE effect for the occasional artistic shot but definitely not at that price.
Hmm I've already got the ICE filter, should I get a better filter or stick it out and Lightroom the blue-shift away? 🤔
I have the ICE 10stop for years, and thank you, I’m getting the BW110😁
Wow, an absolute magnificent review, thank you so very much.
Did you get a new photo jacket for 2019?
Matt
Excellent video and a ton of useful information. I use the Cokin Filter System and have been looking at the various 100mm 10 Stop Sq filters that will fit my holder: Cokin and Lee specifically. Any chance of testing these two filters as well as others due to there popularity?
Peter
Hi Matt, very interesting, thanks for this video, still one question though, why not trying australian Gobe's brand, they do quite well for a reasonnable pricing ?
I've never heard of them sorry - and didnt see them available here.
@@mattgrangerHere is the link : mygobe.com/au/