This is a life-saver. My IC-20 was only 4-years old (replaced a previous 7-year old one). Kept saying "Low Salt", and was looking at yet another unit (at a major cost). But your solution was perfect. Water was at just under 80F and yet unit was saying 100F. So, cut the white wire, and immediately started the 'Cell' again, with no "Low Salt" light anymore.
Hi! I'm having some issues with my intellichlor and I'm desperate! I have 20,000 gallon pool. My chlorinator wasn't running and now I have it on csuoer mode" for 24 hours. I've added 4 bags of salt since we opened it and it says add salt. I don't remember needing to add more than that last year. There is 0 chlorine when I test the water. Please help!
Have you tried the instructions in the video where you determine what the cell is reporting for temperature? What does IntelliCenter or EZ-Touch say your salt level is. I'd recommend you purchase a chemical salt level system. You can search online/amazon for, "TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER ". That will tell you precisely how much salt you have. If you have 3000-4000 ppm as measured, then you have an IntelliChlor issue. You could try the bypass I proposed. Good luck!
I have a red/low salt light.. I ran the internal temp test and all the lights are flashing (meaning sensor is bad already). Will it help if i cut the white wire? Sometimes i get a green light and sometimes it gives me a red/low salt light.
My Intellichlor only has the Sanitizer Output lights on. On startup the Flow light is red, but quickly goes blank like the status and salt level lights that never turn on at all. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Thanks Brian, I had a cold water light on my ic40 that was used for one swim season. I live in Canada and use the bypass dummy when I close the pool. So the ic 40 had about 5 months of use. Anyway, followed your video and it worked. All green and producing chlorine. I just terminated the white thermistor wire with marrettes on either end and its working perfectly. Saved me another 1000+ dollars to buy a new one. Thanks!!!
I'm not sure how I could live without RUclips! Thank you for this!!!! I knew I had a flow switch issue because readings would vary from 2900ppm to 2550ppm an hour later to 0 after that. I know the permanent solution is to put a new flow switch in but we are off on vacation for a couple of weeks and I didn't want to leave the pool without chlorine. Followed your instructions from beginning to end (sensor was reading 100 degree water) and cut the white wire. BOOM!!! Everything is running perfectly! I'll install the new flow switch when I get back (I like to be able to see and control all the info from my phone) but for now, a salt cell that shows it has only spent 20% of its life is now running like clock work! Cheers!
Glad it helped. I was so happy when I recovered mine. My replacement flow sensor went out again a few months later, Pentair agreed to swap the entire cell, and since then I've been running smooth (knock on wood).
Thanks for the video. I thought i was in the same situation but i cut the white wire (green cell light went from solid green to flashing green after a few minutes) so then i cut the green wire (solid green to flashing green after a few minutes) so this didn’t seem to work for me. I just ordered a replacement sensor from Walmart ( aftermarket part after reading some bad reviews about the OEM part on Amazon). Hoping this works since the wire cutting didn’t. Would you suggest i just cut the other wires (black and red) or just wait for the replacement sensor? Thanks for making the video.
I just did this - How long does it take for the system to "reset?" I cut both white and green and the temperature flashes at the lowest still... It has been 100 degrees out recently so I know the water is not that cold.
Hi Brian, I have only a red and black wire. Which one would I cut? I cut an old one that had been replaced because I didn't want to mess up the current one. I'm assuming its the same. Thanks!
@@antwerks1 No, completely unrelated. Freeze protection does not interface with the chlorinator directly. However, the cell is not supposed to run when the water hits 52F. So if you do this, I would strongly recommend turning the chlorinator to 0% during the winter and/or when the water temp hits 52.
@@Outback199 I called them and explained things. I told them that due to the Texas Freeze, no pool companies want to do trivial warranty work, so Pentair just shipped me the part overnight. It was
It would assume the water temp was 77F all year round. Depending on where you live that may work. You'd have to make sure your salt level was checked regularly and might have to run it in certain areas of the margin more specifically if water temps varied significantly from 77.
As you know, the salt cell does not produce chlorine when the water is below a certain level. I keep my pool open year round in a cold winter climate. I am having the issue you describe and am thinking of cutting the white wire. Will there be any negative effects if the salt cell thinks it is 77 degrees and thinks it is good to produce chlorine if the water temp is really only like 45 degrees? Great troubleshooting and tutorial by the way! @@UraniumTwoThirtyFive
@@user-tc3wi6xw8d That's a great question, and I do not know the answer unfortunately. If I were in that situation, I would simply turn the cell off (0%) when the water is cooler.
Nice hack Brian. Short and to the point video. Thanks!!!
This is a life-saver. My IC-20 was only 4-years old (replaced a previous 7-year old one). Kept saying "Low Salt", and was looking at yet another unit (at a major cost). But your solution was perfect. Water was at just under 80F and yet unit was saying 100F. So, cut the white wire, and immediately started the 'Cell' again, with no "Low Salt" light anymore.
Glad to have helped!
Hi! I'm having some issues with my intellichlor and I'm desperate! I have 20,000 gallon pool. My chlorinator wasn't running and now I have it on csuoer mode" for 24 hours. I've added 4 bags of salt since we opened it and it says add salt. I don't remember needing to add more than that last year. There is 0 chlorine when I test the water. Please help!
Have you tried the instructions in the video where you determine what the cell is reporting for temperature? What does IntelliCenter or EZ-Touch say your salt level is.
I'd recommend you purchase a chemical salt level system. You can search online/amazon for, "TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER ".
That will tell you precisely how much salt you have. If you have 3000-4000 ppm as measured, then you have an IntelliChlor issue. You could try the bypass I proposed.
Good luck!
I have a red/low salt light.. I ran the internal temp test and all the lights are flashing (meaning sensor is bad already). Will it help if i cut the white wire? Sometimes i get a green light and sometimes it gives me a red/low salt light.
Thanks for a great video. You just saved me $1100!
My Intellichlor only has the Sanitizer Output lights on. On startup the Flow light is red, but quickly goes blank like the status and salt level lights that never turn on at all. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Thanks Brian, I had a cold water light on my ic40 that was used for one swim season. I live in Canada and use the bypass dummy when I close the pool. So the ic 40 had about 5 months of use. Anyway, followed your video and it worked. All green and producing chlorine. I just terminated the white thermistor wire with marrettes on either end and its working perfectly. Saved me another 1000+ dollars to buy a new one. Thanks!!!
Glad it could help. Yeah it's a lame design, such a simple thermistor is responsible for so much.
Thanks Brian. I have the exact problem.
I'm not sure how I could live without RUclips! Thank you for this!!!! I knew I had a flow switch issue because readings would vary from 2900ppm to 2550ppm an hour later to 0 after that. I know the permanent solution is to put a new flow switch in but we are off on vacation for a couple of weeks and I didn't want to leave the pool without chlorine. Followed your instructions from beginning to end (sensor was reading 100 degree water) and cut the white wire. BOOM!!! Everything is running perfectly! I'll install the new flow switch when I get back (I like to be able to see and control all the info from my phone) but for now, a salt cell that shows it has only spent 20% of its life is now running like clock work! Cheers!
Glad it helped. I was so happy when I recovered mine. My replacement flow sensor went out again a few months later, Pentair agreed to swap the entire cell, and since then I've been running smooth (knock on wood).
Thanks for the video. I thought i was in the same situation but i cut the white wire (green cell light went from solid green to flashing green after a few minutes) so then i cut the green wire (solid green to flashing green after a few minutes) so this didn’t seem to work for me. I just ordered a replacement sensor from Walmart ( aftermarket part after reading some bad reviews about the OEM part on Amazon). Hoping this works since the wire cutting didn’t. Would you suggest i just cut the other wires (black and red) or just wait for the replacement sensor? Thanks for making the video.
I think the black and red are needed for flow. You'll need to cut them when you get the replacement so it's not the end of the world.
Did the replacement end up working for you?
I just did this - How long does it take for the system to "reset?" I cut both white and green and the temperature flashes at the lowest still... It has been 100 degrees out recently so I know the water is not that cold.
Was instant for me.
Excellent video Brian, thank you!
Hi Brian, I have only a red and black wire. Which one would I cut? I cut an old one that had been replaced because I didn't want to mess up the current one. I'm assuming its the same. Thanks!
Works like the video shows, instead of spending 1K on a new generator this fixed it for $0. Thanks for the video.
In spirit a new flow sensor would solve the problem as well, but those go for well over $100.
will this effect the auto freeze protection
@@antwerks1 No, completely unrelated. Freeze protection does not interface with the chlorinator directly.
However, the cell is not supposed to run when the water hits 52F. So if you do this, I would strongly recommend turning the chlorinator to 0% during the winter and/or when the water temp hits 52.
Just cut the wire wire. Worked perfect! Thanks!
Big thumbs up - worked exactly as advertised!😁
I also had the exact same problem. Thanks I’m hoping to replace the sensor tomorrow and have chlorine output once again :)
I did get the new sensor and it swapped in and worked perfectly. Very easy replacement!
@@UraniumTwoThirtyFive Did you buy Pentair's or a knockoff?
@@Outback199 I called them and explained things. I told them that due to the Texas Freeze, no pool companies want to do trivial warranty work, so Pentair just shipped me the part overnight. It was
Thank you Sir, It worked for me!
Thanks. Worked for me!
HI Brian, Have only 3 wires cut the white, Should that work?
Yeah, just the white is fine.
Thanks. Super helpful.
What did you just leave it without the temperature sensor? Would it work fine
It would assume the water temp was 77F all year round. Depending on where you live that may work. You'd have to make sure your salt level was checked regularly and might have to run it in certain areas of the margin more specifically if water temps varied significantly from 77.
As you know, the salt cell does not produce chlorine when the water is below a certain level. I keep my pool open year round in a cold winter climate. I am having the issue you describe and am thinking of cutting the white wire. Will there be any negative effects if the salt cell thinks it is 77 degrees and thinks it is good to produce chlorine if the water temp is really only like 45 degrees? Great troubleshooting and tutorial by the way! @@UraniumTwoThirtyFive
@@user-tc3wi6xw8d That's a great question, and I do not know the answer unfortunately. If I were in that situation, I would simply turn the cell off (0%) when the water is cooler.