Wheels on a landscape rake are a game changer for sure. Next level game changer is adding a hydraulic top link also. You can dig in or feather out material by just adjusting the top link and not using the lift arms. I use this combination a lot and works very well. Lastly, when you are transporting or loading on a trailer, shortening the hydraulic top link improves ground clearance of rake. Mine lifts approximately 3 ft off ground. Great video...enjoyed it.
I noticed you had to keep looking back to watch the rake. I have an ongoing gut issue that causes pain when I twist around to see behind the tractor. So, I mounted a cheap back up camera on my BX2380 ROPS and use the suction cup base to hold the screen on the hood. It has an on-off switch, so I only turn it on when I need it. I hope that helps someone with similar issues.
The mirrors are a must have. I bought my 72" rake to clean up the beach. A lot of weeds wash in and I am tired of raking them by hand. I could not control the height and was continually digging holes. I purchased the Frontier gage wheels. In soft sand, wheels will still let the rake drop enough to stop me in my tracts. As I am still learning, the mirrors help as much as the wheels. Much better than raking by hand. On the way back to the building one day my neighbor suggested seeing what it would do on the crushed stone drive we share. It worked great leveling and even pulled a few weeds. Edited: I am going to try it on leaves this year.
Pine straw/needle rake works much better on a lawn, a little more forgiving. Or the dethatcher you can find also talked about regularly on this channel 👍
Looks like the gauge wheels do a great job of keeping a consistent grade. It is certainly possible I am missing something but, one thing I noticed on your versaforks is that it looks like the chain hooks are backwards.
I bought your 3 point dethatcher and it worked great. First use was refurbishing a disused high school baseball field. At 60 inches it took some time but the results were great.
in my opinion gauge wheels are a must . when you drive without them and your front wheels go up or down the rake goes up and down as well , sometimes more , exacerbating the problem .
The landscape rake works great with the wheels it makes grading soooo much easier. The versa fork attachment looks great. I would be interested when you come out with the skid steer quick attach setup. Nice video thanks.
That works well hey?? We welded a homemade set on one of our tine rakes that was near the end of its useful life. I used it on the gravel drives and a very large turnaround we had in the main yard. It had to be large enough for Super Bs and Cattle tractor/trailer units to turn around. We kept equipment on the perimeter in the grass as well, stuff we used enough that we could still maintain that grass! (Alberta Canada in the foothills where native prairie grass doesn’t get too tall or thick) Anyways, o got to doing circles like I would with the box blade, but it turned out to be better! It loosened the gravel up sooner and our set up could be set to go deeper where a pothole developed or any washboard and when I was done it looked fantastic! We actually fixed some messy welds that had happened over the years and rebuilt that rake! Had to fill and redrill some bolt holes that had worn oblong etc, but a new set of times and paint and it looked great!! The guy that bought the place from us still uses that thing for the yard roads and the large yard drive/turnaround. Right up to the cattle shoots, along the transport truck scales, even the drive chutes for the grain pickups and bins. Leaves the place looking great and actually doesn’t kick stones around as bad as I thought it would. Pleasant surprise those first few times we used it instead of the box blade. Even used it in the corrals after cleaning out the manure to level them out. Our corrals were 220 ft by 220-400 ft depending on the cattle and ages (to a degree).
For your lift height issue, shorten the top link. That will also told the pitch of your rake ahead and it will spread the material a bit more. With the link long like that, it has more of a carrying effect instead of spread. That would keep your piles down at the end as well as give more lift height
Hey, just a thought on the versa bracket/forks - it would be great if you could use them to pick up 3 point implements from the front with the loader to move and store.
If you were doing gravel and you were worried about it, bogging it down you could just take some of the tines off and still use the wheels and essentially just make it a 60 it’s just take two or three tines off of each side.
I picked up the Frontier rake, a friend suggested yesterday that is might want to drill some holes in the longer pipe to better adjust the gauge wheels. I’m not very good with it yet, haven’t found the right combination of adjustment on the 3 point, I think. I was wondering if you have a video on using the Frontier rake or one that could suggest how to adjust everything. I’m digging in deeper than I would like. Any suggestions would be appreciated
What's the general timeframe on those versaforks with skid-steer quick attach plate? I'm in the market right now and was hovering over the buy button on the artillian forks but I like your SSQA+3 point idea quite a bit.
I didn't see much, if any, material filtering through the tines. Would a blade (with gauge wheels) give the same grade results, without the pretty grooves in the dirt?
Possibly so, but if you're buying one tool, then I think a rake is more versatile than a rear blade. Trying to show the versatility of the rake. Dirt, stone, possibly snow, maybe a hard with gauge wheels. I've just never been a big fan of the flat rear blade. I know folks love them though.
In my experience, you don't see the dirt filter through the tines so much as just rolling out at the bottom. The landscape rake has many uses, I use mine to pick stones out of the grass in the spring from snow removal, its also a great tool to prep for seed as it helps pick the stones or debris out of the dirt. It does build up though so lifting at the end of each pass like you see here is a good way to do it to keep the tines clear.
I kinda thought that too. But if you hook the chain in them, then wrap them around the back of the bracket and out the front/bottom, even if the chain gets loose it won’t come out of the hook. Maybe accidental genius?
It doesn't need to be any lighter. It lifts it to max height easily. Theoretically, the further away on that angle, the higher it'll lift. I think removing the quick hitch would make the problem worse.
Told ya guys! ;) The wheels are indeed the game changer for a rake. Use my 60" Dirt Dog rake w/wheels to groom and level my gravel drive and for dirt finish grades, leveling wood chips on large areas. Angle the rake for driveways to angle gravel inwards to finish off the crown properly. Box blades have their place, but a rake is what you'll use more regularly once the driveway base is set right. When you need to work on rougher dirt cleanup, just take the spacers off and raise the wheels out of the way or take them off the posts so the rake can get in deeper into the soil clumps and debris. Tie a suitcase weight onto the frame temporarily at each end if you really want to level out rough stuff. Had my Dirt Dog 4 years and the tines are still in good shape.
Don't understand why you drug all your dirt to the low end of the grade. If you take it to the high end you can just spread it where it is. Sure do like seeing all the attachments.
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Wheels on a landscape rake are a game changer for sure. Next level game changer is adding a hydraulic top link also. You can dig in or feather out material by just adjusting the top link and not using the lift arms. I use this combination a lot and works very well. Lastly, when you are transporting or loading on a trailer, shortening the hydraulic top link improves ground clearance of rake. Mine lifts approximately 3 ft off ground. Great video...enjoyed it.
Definitely, love hydraulic top and tilt.
I noticed you had to keep looking back to watch the rake. I have an ongoing gut issue that causes pain when I twist around to see behind the tractor. So, I mounted a cheap back up camera on my BX2380 ROPS and use the suction cup base to hold the screen on the hood. It has an on-off switch, so I only turn it on when I need it. I hope that helps someone with similar issues.
The mirrors are a must have. I bought my 72" rake to clean up the beach. A lot of weeds wash in and I am tired of raking them by hand. I could not control the height and was continually digging holes. I purchased the Frontier gage wheels. In soft sand, wheels will still let the rake drop enough to stop me in my tracts. As I am still learning, the mirrors help as much as the wheels. Much better than raking by hand. On the way back to the building one day my neighbor suggested seeing what it would do on the crushed stone drive we share. It worked great leveling and even pulled a few weeds. Edited: I am going to try it on leaves this year.
Pine straw/needle rake works much better on a lawn, a little more forgiving. Or the dethatcher you can find also talked about regularly on this channel 👍
Shop landscape rakes here: www.goodworkstractors.com/product/dirt-dog-landscape-rake/
Love my landscape rake and just now purchased the gauge wheels, can’t wait to get my driveway done
Love the rake for spreading gravel, thise wheels look like a game changer for fine grading.
Looks like they are doing a good job.
Definitely!
Looks like the gauge wheels do a great job of keeping a consistent grade. It is certainly possible I am missing something but, one thing I noticed on your versaforks is that it looks like the chain hooks are backwards.
I was noticing that too. Is there a reason for that? The only upside would be for hanging something when you raise the loader all the way up.
I bought your 3 point dethatcher and it worked great. First use was refurbishing a disused high school baseball field. At 60 inches it took some time but the results were great.
Best move ever was taking 1/2 the tines out of the landscape rake!
in my opinion gauge wheels are a must .
when you drive without them and your front wheels go up or down the rake goes up and down as well , sometimes more , exacerbating the problem .
Yeah, definitely help on uneven terrain
The landscape rake works great with the wheels it makes grading soooo much easier. The versa fork attachment looks great. I would be interested when you come out with the skid steer quick attach setup. Nice video thanks.
That works well hey?? We welded a homemade set on one of our tine rakes that was near the end of its useful life. I used it on the gravel drives and a very large turnaround we had in the main yard. It had to be large enough for Super Bs and Cattle tractor/trailer units to turn around. We kept equipment on the perimeter in the grass as well, stuff we used enough that we could still maintain that grass! (Alberta Canada in the foothills where native prairie grass doesn’t get too tall or thick)
Anyways, o got to doing circles like I would with the box blade, but it turned out to be better! It loosened the gravel up sooner and our set up could be set to go deeper where a pothole developed or any washboard and when I was done it looked fantastic! We actually fixed some messy welds that had happened over the years and rebuilt that rake! Had to fill and redrill some bolt holes that had worn oblong etc, but a new set of times and paint and it looked great!! The guy that bought the place from us still uses that thing for the yard roads and the large yard drive/turnaround. Right up to the cattle shoots, along the transport truck scales, even the drive chutes for the grain pickups and bins. Leaves the place looking great and actually doesn’t kick stones around as bad as I thought it would. Pleasant surprise those first few times we used it instead of the box blade. Even used it in the corrals after cleaning out the manure to level them out. Our corrals were 220 ft by 220-400 ft depending on the cattle and ages (to a degree).
Slotted fitments usually get washers... "heavy" washers if you have the thread length. I know it won't fail but...
For your lift height issue, shorten the top link. That will also told the pitch of your rake ahead and it will spread the material a bit more. With the link long like that, it has more of a carrying effect instead of spread. That would keep your piles down at the end as well as give more lift height
The gauge wheels don't hit the ground when shortened, already tried it. It digs in more too. Thanks for the comment!
Hey, just a thought on the versa bracket/forks - it would be great if you could use them to pick up 3 point implements from the front with the loader to move and store.
If you were doing gravel and you were worried about it, bogging it down you could just take some of the tines off and still use the wheels and essentially just make it a 60 it’s just take two or three tines off of each side.
That versafork is pretty slick.
I picked up the Frontier rake, a friend suggested yesterday that is might want to drill some holes in the longer pipe to better adjust the gauge wheels. I’m not very good with it yet, haven’t found the right combination of adjustment on the 3 point, I think. I was wondering if you have a video on using the Frontier rake or one that could suggest how to adjust everything. I’m digging in deeper than I would like. Any suggestions would be appreciated
What's the general timeframe on those versaforks with skid-steer quick attach plate? I'm in the market right now and was hovering over the buy button on the artillian forks but I like your SSQA+3 point idea quite a bit.
Probably 2 months or so
I didn't see much, if any, material filtering through the tines. Would a blade (with gauge wheels) give the same grade results, without the pretty grooves in the dirt?
Possibly so, but if you're buying one tool, then I think a rake is more versatile than a rear blade. Trying to show the versatility of the rake. Dirt, stone, possibly snow, maybe a hard with gauge wheels. I've just never been a big fan of the flat rear blade. I know folks love them though.
In my experience, you don't see the dirt filter through the tines so much as just rolling out at the bottom. The landscape rake has many uses, I use mine to pick stones out of the grass in the spring from snow removal, its also a great tool to prep for seed as it helps pick the stones or debris out of the dirt. It does build up though so lifting at the end of each pass like you see here is a good way to do it to keep the tines clear.
Is it just me or are the chain hooks on backwards on the versaforks?
I kinda thought that too. But if you hook the chain in them, then wrap them around the back of the bracket and out the front/bottom, even if the chain gets loose it won’t come out of the hook. Maybe accidental genius?
Do you think if you don’t use the Speedco hitch it would lighten it along with shorting your distance to the weight?
It doesn't need to be any lighter. It lifts it to max height easily. Theoretically, the further away on that angle, the higher it'll lift. I think removing the quick hitch would make the problem worse.
Do you have a mirror that mounts on a Bobcat CT2025?
Told ya guys! ;) The wheels are indeed the game changer for a rake. Use my 60" Dirt Dog rake w/wheels to groom and level my gravel drive and for dirt finish grades, leveling wood chips on large areas. Angle the rake for driveways to angle gravel inwards to finish off the crown properly. Box blades have their place, but a rake is what you'll use more regularly once the driveway base is set right. When you need to work on rougher dirt cleanup, just take the spacers off and raise the wheels out of the way or take them off the posts so the rake can get in deeper into the soil clumps and debris. Tie a suitcase weight onto the frame temporarily at each end if you really want to level out rough stuff. Had my Dirt Dog 4 years and the tines are still in good shape.
Are you in high or low gear?
Should be able to fit gauge wheels on a 60”. Just because there are no factory holes for the brackets does not mean they couldn’t be fitted.
Maybe so
I'm really interested in the Summit tractor... how would you compare this JD to the Summit??
It's a bigger, heavier machine, but does have the same lift height limitation.
@@GoodWorksTractors Thanks!!
Don't understand why you drug all your dirt to the low end of the grade. If you take it to the high end you can just spread it where it is. Sure do like seeing all the attachments.
Because I was scooping it all out of there. I did not want to spread it out on the other end, that would have complicated things.
seems to me this would be a perfect place for a hydraulic top link
Man, I want a tractor.
You sound as if you've been breathing in too much smoke after the lifting of the summer-drought burn-ban.
Maybe put a hydraulic upper link to help gain some tilt or lift?