I found this video while looking for repair methods for my tub floor which had a 4"ish u shaped crack in the floor and a couple hairline cracks. I was a bit reluctant at first to purchase the kit, which seemed a bit pricey. I looked around for other solutions but couldn't find individual components that seemed comparable. I ordered the Level 3 kit. Once I got it, I was surprised at how comprehensive the kit is. Everything you need is included, down to orbital sandpaper and gloves. I spaced my repair over 2 days and it could not have gone smoother. The repair is now done and it turned out even better than I had hoped for. The repair is not visible. One caveat: I did not use the Preval sprayer as I have extensive paint spraying experience and equipment so I used an airbrush instead. I also want to mention that the amounts of materials provided were generous and I had plenty for my use. Overall I'm quite pleased I decided to go this route. Thanks for the great system.
I can’t recommend these guys/this company enough! Not only are the videos helpful, they also chatted with me on their website and gave me personalized advice on which of their products to use for my tub repair. Thanks guys!
@@tubrepairco if u cant show me how to fix something with products that i can buy at home depot or lowes then your info is almost worthless . seems like u are just trying to get people to buy your overpriced kits .
Thank for posting this video. I have a 3 inch crack in my bath tube, crack is super tight (can barely see it). I have access to the bottom-back of tub as shower in on second floor above my garage. My question for you is: Would it work if I follow all your repair steps and work only on the back of the tub? Im trying to avoid drilling holes, sanding, and painting tub. I would rater patch and paint my garage ceiling. I would appreciate any feedback.
This would not solve the problem of the crack on the surface of the tub. It may work ok but you will want to seal the crack in the surface as well. Also you will have to cut out the subfloor if you are going to support with foam. To actually apply the glass putty you would need a large enough hole to work in which would make it difficult to get good support. We would not recommend this approach.
You need to sand down the texture where you will be applying repair material. You can try to replicate a texture in the finish putty but getting a good looking texture match can be difficult.
Hi, I have two questions. When you say spray the coating, is the sprayer included? I want to be sure that’s not something additional I need to hunt down, but I can’t tell from your website. The project is for a shower crack I just noticed a couple days ago. The drain is in the middle and the crack is a couple inches from the drain, where I stand. I can’t tell whether water might get in, and I don’t want to mess with it and worsen so that the area is more vulnerable before I fix. Any advice there? The pan is detached and caulked to the wall panels of the shower, but I’m not sure if I can or should try to remove and see under there or if that might just cause other problems. I appreciate any help.
Hello, and thanks for the questions. The sprayer is included. Everything you need besides an orbital sander, vacuum, drill, blow dryer, extension cord are included. Everything in the kit is listed on our website in the photos and the description of each kit. Also everything you would need is listed on our site in the description of each kit as well. As for your shower pan there are a couple things. You can definitely text us pictures to 417-536-7785 which is our service line and a professional can look at what you have going on. If it has started cracking it will likely get worse and eventually start leaking if it’s not already so will need to be addressed now or later. The shower pan should be connected to the drain at least so not sure how it would go trying to get under it. If you have a crawl space you should be able to at least see where the subfloor is underneath. Shower pans can be difficult sometimes depending on how large the cut out for the drain is in the subfloor. Basically if the cut out for the drain is very large then you may not have support underneath and would either need to go under and add support (for a crawl space or basement) or if it’s on a slab you may need to fill the cut out with gravel (we have a video of that on our channel). All this said I would give us a shout and we could better advise you if we know a bit more about your situation.
Yes you can. Just read our instructions and test the acetone on the surface (at the point of damage) to see if it dulls the finish before starting. If the surface gets sticky with the acetone you want to be careful where you get the acetone and reducer.
Hi. Our tub seems to be cracked underneath. U can’t see the crack in the tub but water is leaking to the ceiling from underneath the tub downstairs. What should we do in this situation? Please help. Thank you.
@@perpetualabenamensah5953 if the tub is cracked and leaking water you should be able to identify where it is cracked. It can be subtle but will likely be opening when it gets stepped on. To fix it you need to know where it is broken.
Hey Caroline, we are fairly new on RUclips as we just started posting things a couple months ago. We’re you pleased with our videos? Anything we can answer for you? It helps get us up in the ranks of you subscribe and share our videos.
It calls for a 1:50 ratio. We compare it to a baseball and a marble or a golf ball and a rolled up piece of gum. There is a little flexibility in the ratio. 1:50 is the minimum.
Thanks for replying. I live in Australia, and trying to find products like you're using. Im not having much luck. Anyway, i already started with filling under the bath with foam. Over it already! Im wanting a product/sealer, that i can use once the holes and cracks are filled. One that covers the mess created, and is enough on its own. I can sand it smooth and leave it. I dont want to spray on a finish to match the existing colour. I dont care if the patches are visible. I just want function. I dont care if it looks like a train wreck. Im currently having a shower under the hose in the backyard. Prob be doing this for a while, because as i mentioned before, im alreaady over it. 🤪🫣 TIA
You should find a fiberglass body filler or fiberglass resin to repair the crack and holes. Then an oil based urethane paint will probably hold up the best to coat the repair. Shoot us an email to office@tubrepairco.com and include pictures of what you are working on and we can help a bit better.
@@tubrepairco thankyou so much. I put off doing it for so long. Ive watched your videos. I really did t think you'd reply to be honest. So, the other day i just got the drill and started. I really wish i posted pics prior to doing it. I had no idea I'd get this kind of support, if any. Id rather not post photos, because its embarassing. I cant believe I didnt do a good job. Not like me at all. I take pride in the work i do to my house. This.... not ! Cant even look at it. Youre support is A+. Unfortunately, everything is clearer in hindsight. If i only waited one more day to start.
I applied a layer of bondo glass to several areas at bottom of my bathtub and noticed it feels a little tacky after 25 minutes...even 45 minutes it feels that way. Does that mean I mixed the bondo and hardener wrong or something? What would you recommend I do next if it still feels that way tomorrow?
Btw I am not using the kit bc I needed something super quick since this is the only bathtub in rental property where I currently have a renter so I couldn't afford the time for shipping....I tried to follow level 3 repair videos and made sure to purchase the same materials recommended. I will purchase kit for future repairs when time isn't as critical.
Hey no worries. That is one aspect of Bondo Glass that we are not a fan of and are working to correct. This is normal for it to be slightly tacky. As long as it is firm you did it right. Just continue the steps as normal and let us know if you have any other questions!
Moisture may get through and soften the fiberglass shell first and soften it over time. If it does not open when you step near it and is not soft when you step near it then a level 2 kit may be all you need. If it’s soft the the floor repair kit would be what you need.
It will. Floor cracks can be a bit more risky due to the weakness of acrylic tubs but most times they work just fine. If the floor is plastic and is very flimsy you risk the foam bulging up. You can put something heavy on it while the foam cures to mitigate this.
Do you have anyone in Tennessee? Middle Tennessee specifically. One repair was already done by a so-called professional company several years ago, but hasn't held up well and I'd like to have it done again but prefer someone else to do it if possible. Otherwise your video is VERY helpful and clear and I may try DIY.
Hello, I’m sorry we don’t have our network developed there yet :/ Definitely check out our DIY kit and give us a shout if you want us to look at your project. You can text 417-536-7785 (our local service number). Text us picture and we are happy to talk you through your project!
We would recommend our level 3 kit. The fiberglass Matt and resin that you used doesn’t hold as well to plastic tubs. You need to put foam support underneath to reduce how much movement happens. Also the short strand filler that we include has more give to it than the fiberglass Matt and resin so it will bow a little if needed. Plastic tubs are much harder to repair. We have offered another custom with a similar situation (crack in the floor of a plastic tub). Try our level 3 kit and if it fails we will refund half your money.
Hello, I’m sorry but we do not have a service partner in Vegas yet. If it is just a hairline crack you would want to see if it opens when you step near it. If it doesn’t spread the it’s probably just in the gel coat. Over time it will probably begin to soften. A level 2 kit may be enough to be sure it is sealed and adds durability. If it is soft we would go with the floor repair kit.
We have done that. It can work well gotta be careful. Draining can be an issue and damming it from the drain is difficult. Pretty solid though. Sometimes if the whole floor has hairline cracks you can roll on an epoxy resin. We are working to improve these methods and put them into kits as well. Hope you subscribed! Thanks for the question!
tub I have when you stand on it, you can tell there's an air bubble or whatever under the tub.. so no support. On the side of that bubble is where the crack has happened. Would you recommend I drill into that area that bubbles and inject some resin underneath it or something? to fill it? I assume if I fix the crack (which seems pretty easy via your video) it will fail because when you step on that area it'll just crack again.
The best thing to do is to add support in the soft areas. Many times the soft area is larger than the cracked area itself. The best thing would be to get support under any soft areas. Is that what you mean by bubble? It is a soft spot when you step on it?
@@tubrepairco yea it's soft, nothing is there for maybe 1/2 an inch and the spot to the left is where the crack is. Obviously the crack formed because someone stepped on the soft spot too many times and thus it cracked to relieve that pressure... So do you know of a product to stick under there? the tub is in with tile all around it.. so I would drill a hole, squirt stuff into it that fills the gaps (was thinking epoxy or expanding glue?) and then seal up the crack and the hole using methods like in your video
You should use our level 3 kit at tubrepairco.com it comes with everything you need to make that repair. It will only take a small amount of the expanding foam but I believe it is the best solution to your problem.
You can still make the repair just like any other house. Depending on how close to the drain the repair is, you may find the cut out for the drain is larger than for crawlspace or subfloor homes. This can cause the drop below the damage to be much deeper. Check out our RUclips page in the floor crack repair playlist to see how we repaired this. Give us a call if you have any questions about making a repair like this.
The wider the gap the less support you will have. Getting to 5” is a bit large to have great support. This is larger than most tubs but we do see this sometimes on concrete slab houses especially in standing showers near the drain because often times the cut the drain hole in the concrete and it’s much larger creating a drop near the drain. Watch the video we have called “Huge Hole Under Bathtub, Repair with Gravel”. This shows you an option of what you can do if the gap is too big. Give is a shout if you want us to look at your project!
Boy I did a shit job. Good thing I don't do this for a living. I think I would have to sue myself. This should do the job until I can afford new bathtubs.
@@tubrepairco yes....I used the level 3. There is nothing wrong with the kit at all. I was just rushing and did a bad job cosmetically speaking. The quality of the kit is awesome. It is just that I'm an idiot. The seal will hold like it should. This was just operator error.
You are not the only one. Im usually very good at maintenance. Never really had many issues. Totally messed mine up though. Looks shit. Only at stage 1.5 😮 but cant be bothered to finish it. Dont even want to look at it. 🙃 I dont live in U.S so didnt use the kit. My bath is acrylic also.
@@tubrepairco fill a paper bag with the foam that you are using Wait 24 or as long as you want and then you can step on that bag and you tell me what happens
@@oscarmendieta1425 you have never used our foam. Also why would we test it in a paper bag? Tub floors are not made of paper. You would actually want to let the foam set up and put a 1/2" sheet of plywood over it with a fiberglass floor over that. We test our foam on actual tubs in real jobs and monitor them over years.
if u cant show me how to fix something with products that i can buy at home depot or lowes then your info is almost worthless . seems like u are just trying to get people to buy your overpriced kits .
Wrong, the kits are priced fair. The kits include roughly 30 different products that if you bought individually would cost much more than our kits. For example the coating system with 4 colors, catalyst, reducer and primer, you can’t get these in stores and definitely can’t buy it portioned out like we deliver to you. Just to purchase the coatings we offer in the smallest quantities you can would send you over the price of our kits. Also it would take you a good amount of time to track down all the items which is a cost too. Perhaps you will find our kits in Home Depot or Lowe’s sometime… 🤞❤️
@@tubrepairco um , i do tub and shower reglazing and repair for a living and every product i use can be found at home depot so u are selling your boloney to the wrong guy .
@@tubrepairco unless your kits are priced less than 50 bucks then neither pros or amateurs are gonna buy it , too many other products that do the same thing as yours are available for less than 50 bucks .
You buy your coating materials from Home Depot? Please provide links to your website, also the kits you are referring to. There are no repair kits on the market like ours. Please post a link to show what you are referring too.
I’ve seen the results of these kits and they are top-notch!! I shopped several places and there are no other kits that can match color or perform like these kits. Period. Stop trolling
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I found this video while looking for repair methods for my tub floor which had a 4"ish u shaped crack in the floor and a couple hairline cracks. I was a bit reluctant at first to purchase the kit, which seemed a bit pricey. I looked around for other solutions but couldn't find individual components that seemed comparable. I ordered the Level 3 kit. Once I got it, I was surprised at how comprehensive the kit is. Everything you need is included, down to orbital sandpaper and gloves. I spaced my repair over 2 days and it could not have gone smoother. The repair is now done and it turned out even better than I had hoped for. The repair is not visible. One caveat: I did not use the Preval sprayer as I have extensive paint spraying experience and equipment so I used an airbrush instead. I also want to mention that the amounts of materials provided were generous and I had plenty for my use. Overall I'm quite pleased I decided to go this route. Thanks for the great system.
Thanks so much for such a kind review!! So happy to hear about your experience!!
I can’t recommend these guys/this company enough! Not only are the videos helpful, they also chatted with me on their website and gave me personalized advice on which of their products to use for my tub repair. Thanks guys!
Thanks Michael!!
@@tubrepairco if u cant show me how to fix something with products that i can buy at home depot or lowes then your info is almost worthless . seems like u are just trying to get people to buy your overpriced kits .
@@marleonetti7then figure it out on your own.
Thank for posting this video. I have a 3 inch crack in my bath tube, crack is super tight (can barely see it). I have access to the bottom-back of tub as shower in on second floor above my garage. My question for you is:
Would it work if I follow all your repair steps and work only on the back of the tub? Im trying to avoid drilling holes, sanding, and painting tub. I would rater patch and paint my garage ceiling. I would appreciate any feedback.
This would not solve the problem of the crack on the surface of the tub. It may work ok but you will want to seal the crack in the surface as well. Also you will have to cut out the subfloor if you are going to support with foam. To actually apply the glass putty you would need a large enough hole to work in which would make it difficult to get good support. We would not recommend this approach.
Do you have any tips for doing a gix like this, but on a textured floor, like a shower pan, that might not be easy to sand?
You need to sand down the texture where you will be applying repair material. You can try to replicate a texture in the finish putty but getting a good looking texture match can be difficult.
I live in mid Michigan and need this done do you have a contractor in the area you suggest
Hello, no unfortunately we don’t have anyone up there yet :/. Most handymen can install our kits if you don’t feel comfortable doing it on your own.
Hi, I have two questions. When you say spray the coating, is the sprayer included? I want to be sure that’s not something additional I need to hunt down, but I can’t tell from your website. The project is for a shower crack I just noticed a couple days ago. The drain is in the middle and the crack is a couple inches from the drain, where I stand. I can’t tell whether water might get in, and I don’t want to mess with it and worsen so that the area is more vulnerable before I fix. Any advice there? The pan is detached and caulked to the wall panels of the shower, but I’m not sure if I can or should try to remove and see under there or if that might just cause other problems. I appreciate any help.
I just used the kit. The sprayer is included!
Hello, and thanks for the questions. The sprayer is included. Everything you need besides an orbital sander, vacuum, drill, blow dryer, extension cord are included. Everything in the kit is listed on our website in the photos and the description of each kit. Also everything you would need is listed on our site in the description of each kit as well.
As for your shower pan there are a couple things. You can definitely text us pictures to 417-536-7785 which is our service line and a professional can look at what you have going on. If it has started cracking it will likely get worse and eventually start leaking if it’s not already so will need to be addressed now or later. The shower pan should be connected to the drain at least so not sure how it would go trying to get under it. If you have a crawl space you should be able to at least see where the subfloor is underneath. Shower pans can be difficult sometimes depending on how large the cut out for the drain is in the subfloor. Basically if the cut out for the drain is very large then you may not have support underneath and would either need to go under and add support (for a crawl space or basement) or if it’s on a slab you may need to fill the cut out with gravel (we have a video of that on our channel).
All this said I would give us a shout and we could better advise you if we know a bit more about your situation.
Thanks for the video, where can I purchase this kit?
TubRepairStore.com
any reason you didn't add fiberglass mesh?
The short strand fiber glass material already has the fiberglass fibers in the filler already so it is not needed with this material.
So I can use this on acrylic tubs?
Yes you can. Just read our instructions and test the acetone on the surface (at the point of damage) to see if it dulls the finish before starting. If the surface gets sticky with the acetone you want to be careful where you get the acetone and reducer.
Hi. Our tub seems to be cracked underneath. U can’t see the crack in the tub but water is leaking to the ceiling from underneath the tub downstairs. What should we do in this situation? Please help. Thank you.
This may be a hairline crack that opens when it’s stepped on. Can you feel any soft spots?
No, no soft spot.
@@perpetualabenamensah5953 if the tub is cracked and leaking water you should be able to identify where it is cracked. It can be subtle but will likely be opening when it gets stepped on. To fix it you need to know where it is broken.
how did it take 10 videos to find yours ? to answer my problem with cracked tub
Hey Caroline, we are fairly new on RUclips as we just started posting things a couple months ago. We’re you pleased with our videos? Anything we can answer for you?
It helps get us up in the ranks of you subscribe and share our videos.
Also we just started our RUclips special for free shipping. If you subscribe to our channel then message us we will send your free shipping code.
I have a question. I just bought you guys kit to fix my tub floor but I can’t find exactly how much of glass putty and cream hardener I need.?
It calls for a 1:50 ratio. We compare it to a baseball and a marble or a golf ball and a rolled up piece of gum. There is a little flexibility in the ratio. 1:50 is the minimum.
You have enough in the tube of hardener to activate both the Glass Putty and the Finish Putty.
Does this product work on metal tubs?
Yes it does. Do you have a crack in a metal tub?
@@tubrepairco yes more like a hole. But I belive it’s beyond repair. I appreciate your response.
Feel free to call us if you want to chat. We will give you a number to text pictures to and we can better guide you. 877-234-9882
Can you do this on a fiberglass tub in a mobile home?
Yes. Floor cracks need a sturdy subfloor but our kits will work in a mobile home. Just needs a good subfloor
And what happens if the support board has rotted or is missing?
Then you may not have a shallow layer gap and just a deep layer gap. It won’t be as firm if it doesn’t have the support board but it will still work.
Thanks for replying.
I live in Australia, and trying to find products like you're using.
Im not having much luck.
Anyway, i already started with filling under the bath with foam.
Over it already!
Im wanting a product/sealer, that i can use once the holes and cracks are filled.
One that covers the mess created, and is enough on its own.
I can sand it smooth and leave it.
I dont want to spray on a finish to match the existing colour.
I dont care if the patches are visible.
I just want function.
I dont care if it looks like a train wreck.
Im currently having a shower under the hose in the backyard.
Prob be doing this for a while, because as i mentioned before, im alreaady over it. 🤪🫣
TIA
You should find a fiberglass body filler or fiberglass resin to repair the crack and holes. Then an oil based urethane paint will probably hold up the best to coat the repair. Shoot us an email to office@tubrepairco.com and include pictures of what you are working on and we can help a bit better.
@@tubrepairco thankyou so much.
I put off doing it for so long.
Ive watched your videos.
I really did t think you'd reply to be honest.
So, the other day i just got the drill and started.
I really wish i posted pics prior to doing it.
I had no idea I'd get this kind of support, if any.
Id rather not post photos, because its embarassing.
I cant believe I didnt do a good job.
Not like me at all.
I take pride in the work i do to my house.
This.... not !
Cant even look at it.
Youre support is A+.
Unfortunately, everything is clearer in hindsight.
If i only waited one more day to start.
Forgot to add. My bath is acrylic
What kind of spray foam is used
Our kits include our own private label foam. It is the most dense and has the best spread that we could find.
I applied a layer of bondo glass to several areas at bottom of my bathtub and noticed it feels a little tacky after 25 minutes...even 45 minutes it feels that way. Does that mean I mixed the bondo and hardener wrong or something? What would you recommend I do next if it still feels that way tomorrow?
Btw I am not using the kit bc I needed something super quick since this is the only bathtub in rental property where I currently have a renter so I couldn't afford the time for shipping....I tried to follow level 3 repair videos and made sure to purchase the same materials recommended. I will purchase kit for future repairs when time isn't as critical.
Hey no worries. That is one aspect of Bondo Glass that we are not a fan of and are working to correct. This is normal for it to be slightly tacky. As long as it is firm you did it right. Just continue the steps as normal and let us know if you have any other questions!
how do you know if a floor crack has allowed moisture to get into the subfloor?
Is it a hairline crack or a actual split? Generally you can see it open some when you step near it.
@@tubrepaircomine is a hairline do you think moisture has gotten in? Very tiny crack almost unnoticeable.
Moisture may get through and soften the fiberglass shell first and soften it over time. If it does not open when you step near it and is not soft when you step near it then a level 2 kit may be all you need. If it’s soft the the floor repair kit would be what you need.
What long of a warranty do you give to customers?
We don’t warranty the repairs customers make. We warranty our service work for 3 years.
Will this work on acrylic tubs
It will. Floor cracks can be a bit more risky due to the weakness of acrylic tubs but most times they work just fine. If the floor is plastic and is very flimsy you risk the foam bulging up. You can put something heavy on it while the foam cures to mitigate this.
I have a crack just like this at one of our rentals. 6 year old shower. Kind of a shit design with no support under it. What did that repair cost
We charge around $350 if we do it. Our Level 3 kit is currently priced at $162.99 on our website tubrepairco.com
I definitely don't want to do all of that. ha ha. Dang. Oh well. Adulting. Thank you for sharing your know-how.
Haha worth the money to avoid tearing it out or having future water damage. Let us know if you have any questions. We are here to help!
Do you have anyone in Tennessee? Middle Tennessee specifically. One repair was already done by a so-called professional company several years ago, but hasn't held up well and I'd like to have it done again but prefer someone else to do it if possible. Otherwise your video is VERY helpful and clear and I may try DIY.
Hello, I’m sorry we don’t have our network developed there yet :/ Definitely check out our DIY kit and give us a shout if you want us to look at your project. You can text 417-536-7785 (our local service number). Text us picture and we are happy to talk you through your project!
In Middle Tennessee also. Did you find anyone?
Is there a make and model of respirator that you use in your work and would recommend?
We like to use 3M products but other box store brands will work. We have disposable P95 respirators on our website too. Tubrepairstore.com
What resin is that
It’s the resin in our kits.
@@tubrepairco I've already repaired the patch so I don't need the whole kit. I just need the final resin
You would want to get a waterproof paint. You can’t get this stuff from a store.
I have a plastic tub that got a crack in it and I used fiber glass Matt and the resin and it didn’t adhere to it very weel
This does not sound like one of our kits. Was the crack in the floor?
@@tubrepairco yes it’s like a six inch crack. Like maybe a inch and half away from we’re it starts to curve
We would recommend our level 3 kit. The fiberglass Matt and resin that you used doesn’t hold as well to plastic tubs. You need to put foam support underneath to reduce how much movement happens. Also the short strand filler that we include has more give to it than the fiberglass Matt and resin so it will bow a little if needed. Plastic tubs are much harder to repair. We have offered another custom with a similar situation (crack in the floor of a plastic tub). Try our level 3 kit and if it fails we will refund half your money.
Do you work in Vegas? I need this done
Hello, I’m sorry but we do not have a service partner in Vegas yet. If it is just a hairline crack you would want to see if it opens when you step near it. If it doesn’t spread the it’s probably just in the gel coat. Over time it will probably begin to soften. A level 2 kit may be enough to be sure it is sealed and adds durability. If it is soft we would go with the floor repair kit.
@@tubrepairco thanks so much
Wonder if you could just pour about 1/8" epoxy resin on the whole floor 🤔
We have done that. It can work well gotta be careful. Draining can be an issue and damming it from the drain is difficult. Pretty solid though. Sometimes if the whole floor has hairline cracks you can roll on an epoxy resin. We are working to improve these methods and put them into kits as well. Hope you subscribed! Thanks for the question!
How much is this repair cost?
Hello, the repair kit costs $162.99. These repairs start around $350 and up for our service area.
10/10 would recommend!
Thanks Bryan!!
tub I have when you stand on it, you can tell there's an air bubble or whatever under the tub.. so no support. On the side of that bubble is where the crack has happened. Would you recommend I drill into that area that bubbles and inject some resin underneath it or something? to fill it? I assume if I fix the crack (which seems pretty easy via your video) it will fail because when you step on that area it'll just crack again.
The best thing to do is to add support in the soft areas. Many times the soft area is larger than the cracked area itself. The best thing would be to get support under any soft areas. Is that what you mean by bubble? It is a soft spot when you step on it?
@@tubrepairco yea it's soft, nothing is there for maybe 1/2 an inch and the spot to the left is where the crack is. Obviously the crack formed because someone stepped on the soft spot too many times and thus it cracked to relieve that pressure... So do you know of a product to stick under there? the tub is in with tile all around it.. so I would drill a hole, squirt stuff into it that fills the gaps (was thinking epoxy or expanding glue?) and then seal up the crack and the hole using methods like in your video
You should use our level 3 kit at tubrepairco.com it comes with everything you need to make that repair. It will only take a small amount of the expanding foam but I believe it is the best solution to your problem.
Foam is not designed to support weight
We have been doing this for 6 years and have repair 1,000s of tubs. It works.
I have concrete floor. House is Slab
You can still make the repair just like any other house. Depending on how close to the drain the repair is, you may find the cut out for the drain is larger than for crawlspace or subfloor homes. This can cause the drop below the damage to be much deeper. Check out our RUclips page in the floor crack repair playlist to see how we repaired this. Give us a call if you have any questions about making a repair like this.
that foam is not strong enough to support human weight....😢
Yes it is. Watch our other videos we often jump on our repairs to check the strength.
@@tubrepairco thru 4 to 5 inches of thickness???!! the distance between the fiber floor and the concrete house floor??
The wider the gap the less support you will have. Getting to 5” is a bit large to have great support. This is larger than most tubs but we do see this sometimes on concrete slab houses especially in standing showers near the drain because often times the cut the drain hole in the concrete and it’s much larger creating a drop near the drain. Watch the video we have called “Huge Hole Under Bathtub, Repair with Gravel”. This shows you an option of what you can do if the gap is too big. Give is a shout if you want us to look at your project!
Boy I did a shit job. Good thing I don't do this for a living. I think I would have to sue myself. This should do the job until I can afford new bathtubs.
Did you use one of our kits? Can you send us pictures? What went wrong?
@@tubrepairco yes....I used the level 3. There is nothing wrong with the kit at all. I was just rushing and did a bad job cosmetically speaking. The quality of the kit is awesome. It is just that I'm an idiot. The seal will hold like it should. This was just operator error.
Thanks for the feedback!
You are not the only one.
Im usually very good at maintenance. Never really had many issues.
Totally messed mine up though.
Looks shit.
Only at stage 1.5 😮 but cant be bothered to finish it.
Dont even want to look at it.
🙃
I dont live in U.S so didnt use the kit.
My bath is acrylic also.
It won't last.... Wrong foam!!!
That’s wrong we have done this hundreds of times for many years. It holds.
@@tubrepairco fill a paper bag with the foam that you are using Wait 24 or as long as you want and then you can step on that bag and you tell me what happens
@@oscarmendieta1425 you have never used our foam. Also why would we test it in a paper bag? Tub floors are not made of paper. You would actually want to let the foam set up and put a 1/2" sheet of plywood over it with a fiberglass floor over that. We test our foam on actual tubs in real jobs and monitor them over years.
@@tubrepairco the paper bag was an example... The foam that I use after 10 minutes you can step on that bag and I won't crumble...
if u cant show me how to fix something with products that i can buy at home depot or lowes then your info is almost worthless . seems like u are just trying to get people to buy your overpriced kits .
Wrong, the kits are priced fair. The kits include roughly 30 different products that if you bought individually would cost much more than our kits. For example the coating system with 4 colors, catalyst, reducer and primer, you can’t get these in stores and definitely can’t buy it portioned out like we deliver to you. Just to purchase the coatings we offer in the smallest quantities you can would send you over the price of our kits. Also it would take you a good amount of time to track down all the items which is a cost too. Perhaps you will find our kits in Home Depot or Lowe’s sometime… 🤞❤️
@@tubrepairco um , i do tub and shower reglazing and repair for a living and every product i use can be found at home depot so u are selling your boloney to the wrong guy .
@@tubrepairco unless your kits are priced less than 50 bucks then neither pros or amateurs are gonna buy it , too many other products that do the same thing as yours are available for less than 50 bucks .
You buy your coating materials from Home Depot? Please provide links to your website, also the kits you are referring to. There are no repair kits on the market like ours. Please post a link to show what you are referring too.
I’ve seen the results of these kits and they are top-notch!! I shopped several places and there are no other kits that can match color or perform like these kits. Period. Stop trolling
Stupid idea that's totally wrong 😢😢😢
No we have done this for years to 1,000s of tubs it is the best solution to a cracked floor.