Thanks Peter for taking your valuable time and sharing it with others. I worked for NASA running the MOTS (MiniTrack Optical Tracking System) at Orroral Valley in Australia. Out spacecraft shots were captured on Kodak F103 10" x 8" Glass plates, Our camera/systems cost would bankrupt small Nations. I mainly use Nikon today, Hasselblad and Linholf rail systems, .. display only now. Time to down-load Sequator.... Thanks again Peter.
I've been looking for a Windows program that will do what Starry Landscape Stacker (Mac only) does, and this is probably better. You did a great job on the tutorial - it really helped me get started. I do have a few suggested workflow changes and a few comments: * you can do this in Photoshop using layers, smart objects, and the mean or median blend mode. It takes a lot more time that this does, but it is possible (I have not had issues with align layers working) * I'd suggest doing a dark frame at the start and end of the sequence, as the hot pixels are related to the heat developed in the sensor * LR and ACR do have lens profiles for the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8, which is what I assume you're using - you have to manually select the lens (manufacturer, model) and do this on the RAW file (not a TIFF) * I found that Sequator's results were much better when I did (almost) all the edits in post. I apply lens corrections only in LR and export the files as DNGs. The Rokinon 14mm is a fantastic lens for the money, but it does have a lot of barrel distortion. * the light pollution filtering works really well. I had the best results with uneven/100% strength/intelligently-aggressive set * Sequator does a good job of noise reduction (far better than reducing the noise in a single image) but the output files still need some noise reduction (I used Nik Dfine2). The light pollution removal (I think) also added a purplish line on the horizon which was easily removed with a manual chromatic aberration adjustment in LR. * rather than setting all the options from scratch each time, save the project. For a new set, open the project (.sep file), replace the base frame and star images, and re-mask the sky Thanks again for putting this together.
Very good video. FYI Pete mentioned using more than 10 pictures not being worth it. I happily disagree with Pete and followed what the deep sky guys do. This weekend I took and stacked 8 minutes worth of 6 second photos with my Nikon D3200 with a 35mm at f1.8 ISO400 and had INCREDIBLE results! I wish I could share a picture here. I turned on most of the settings - Auto Brightness, High Dynamic Range, Remove Dynamic Noise, Reduce Light Pollution. Very little post editing needed. The 24mm @f2.8 ISO400 and 18-70mm @ f3.5 ISO 400 also looked pretty good but not as much detail. I am trying to stitch together a a 6 picture pano of the 35mm to get more sky but am having trouble with differences in the color of the sky from picture to picture.
i was looking around for rookie friendly AP programs and i found your channel , and since i am a rookie and you explained this so well that i even understood , i subscribed ,thanks a bunch
Thanks for your great video. Sequator worked perfectly well to render my milky way shoot at 14mm while Photoshop failed completely. I really appreciate your tutorials. Cheers.
Awesome vid. Just bought a Samyang 16mm f/2.0 for shooting the milky way. This tutorial is excellent and this software seems way less overwhelming than photoshop. Thanks, bro!
I am just starting in astrophotography and need to know if you are using Sequator as a Photoshop plug-in? I have had my Ioptron Star Track Pro for a few years and just now am getting around to using it because your tutorials are great and easy to understand.
thanks for letting me know about this program. It‘s pretty good. I tried it. I needed an alternative because I recently encountered problems with deep sky stacker where it wouldn‘t stack all of my light frames, only half of them. They where shot at different nights and I tried many times with different file group tabs an so on,but nothing worked. And sequator seems to stack eyerthing, no problem at all.
great tutorial I was looking for tutorial in how to do stacking with GIMP. I am very glad I found your tutorial. Can't wait to go home and play, thanks.
I van recommend to use Sequator with different light Pollution filters and autobrighyness on/of, getting different results and put them afterwards together with a HDR program to get more output from dark regions - especially from a dark foreground. A mice feature in Sequator is the time lapses function to put let's say 5 images together and go through all images. So it is possible to get more dynamic in your time lapse.
Subscribed to your channel! I have been binging on the content! I have a few good shots of the Milky Way w/o using a tracker, and now that I have a tracker I am ready to take the next exciting steps :) Keep up the great work
Peter...Thank you for all the amazing and informative videos. I am just getting started with shooting the night sky and have been taking a ton of notes from a lot of your videos. For now I am just going to be doing milky way with the rokinon 14 mm f2.8 on my Nikon d5600 and also using the skyguider pro you recommended in one of your videos. I had a question when it comes to stacking, besides the "lights" and "darks" which i think you mentioned can be done anywhere and anytime, when it comes to actually taking the pics of the foreground I assume the 2-4 minute exposure is with the skyguider not rotating...and then after that shot turn on the rotation for the milky way? When it comes to taking the pics of the milky way, once you find the right shutter speed (between 2-4 minutes) do you take lots of pics at that sweet spot and then stack them, or do you vary the time from pic to pic and then stack them? Lastly, with the camera on the skyguider is it possible to reduce the iso down to 400, or for night sky shots is it always best to shoot at iso 800 and above? Sorry for all the questions, Im just trying to make sure I am covering the main topics as I am planning on going to Cheery Springs State Park either Wed Aug 28th or 29th to shoot the milky way.
I've been bouncing between Sequator and DSS, and always seem to be drawn back to Sequator. DSS does allow use of dark bias frames, but frankly, at my current skill level, I haven't noticed any improvement. Sequator is sooo unknown/underrated. Do the creator a favor and buy him a 'cup of coffee' (Paypal link on his website sites.google.com/site/sequatorglobal/encourage).
I am so confused about one thing when using Sequator. I take my star photos in RAW, open them in "PhotoDirector 10" do exactly what you suggest, then export the files to a folder as TIFF. I then proceed to open Sequator, and add the TIFF star images. I then get a message in the main screen "read failed! Unsupported format or invalid path. But at the sametime in the work box to the left, I can see all my TIFF files under Star Images with a green light. And the middle Base image purple. Now if I do the exact same thing, but using RAW to import it works! I am told that it is better to use TIFF than RAW. I didn't even think Sequator would read RAW?
Great video man! Regarding techniques to map your lens's vignetting....is there a difference in quality between the 2 methods you mentioned (Lightroom/Photoshop post-processing vs. photography a bright white frame)? The reason I ask, is that I have seen slight compromises in corner sharpness (i.e. the parts that were vignetted) when using the Lightroom method. Was just wondering if it would be worth the extra time and effort to do it the other way instead. Thanks!
In a nutshell -- is there a huge difference in results between using a stacking program vs shooting long exposures with a tracker. Thanks for these great videos -- I'll keep watching.
I would say there is a noticeable difference. Stacking short exposures is a good first step, but a star tracker will take things to a new level. You'll be able to pull out a lot more fine detail and color once you start shooting 2+ minute exposures. You could even stack multiple longer exposures together, but usually a single image is good enough. The only real downside of using a star tracker, and taking longer exposures, is hot pixels. They tend to blend in with the stars, but I still find them to be a pain. There are ways to fix them, but I'm still trying a few different techniques to determine the best option
@@PeterZelinka Thanks for that -- The prospect of taking really good night sky shots has opened up new possibilities for me. When I am ready to get out there, I will definitely be taking your online course. Thanks again.
Hi, Peter - thank You for a good tutorial. One question for the Orion nebula - which lens/ focal length did you use for those photos? Thank`s in advance. Stein
I see a light source in your pic and yet still the milky way is clear before even to stack. What dose it take to have clear milky way with a light pollution.
For wide field nightscape, do you prefer to stack or bring the tracker for 1 long exposure instead. Does this make the tracker less useful and more for just deepsky photos. Which has better quality?
I normally prefer using a star tracker. There are a few drawbacks though. Since I normally take a 4 minute exposure, I have a ton of hot pixels. Therefore, I used Long Exposure Noise Reduction, which effectively increases the total exposure time to 8 minutes. That's a long time to spend on a single photo. I've gotten much better images overall when using a star tracker. Photo stacking isa good way to reduce grain, but it has its limits.
Any idea why the Sequator screen goes black when I try to paint the sky to freeze the ground? I'm using ON1 Raw 2020 to export my images to Tiff. I'm using the latest version but also got the same results with an older version.
I personally edit all of my RAW files, including the dark frames, and save them as TIFFs first. Then I drop those into sequator. The dark frames should have the same edits applied as the normal photos. Editing the RAW files first helps to reduce the color noise and vignette, among other things. I know many other people would argue that you should only use RAW photos and not do any editing before stacking, but I disagree.
Good question! I actually don't have many stacked images with trees in them, but I did find one example to test. It worked surprisingly well. There were a few artifacts around the trees, which looked like black star trails. Besides those minor streaks of black, everything else looked really good! If you have a really complicated scene with trees, I think Sequator would have some problems. However, I do have a post-processing tutorial for blending complicated scenes like that in Photoshop. You can watch that video here: ruclips.net/video/x2dVRoyyFrc/видео.html
Do you need anything to install, I tried they wanted me down Microsoft program but my computer said I couldn’t do it because I have a later version, can you get override this or will the new version work
Sequator Down Sizes my files? - I have been using a Nikon D850 (8200 x 5500 pixels) for some astrophotography. Why is it when I run the images thru Sequator the output file is about 4144 x 2760? Am I missing something? I would like to keep the pixels if possible . Any ideas? The software work very well and is fast. By the way you have a great channel!
@@PeterZelinkaGot it figured out, my fault. I was using the 'merge 4 pixels' option. Therefore reducing the output file size. You have a good channel, keep up the good work. Thanks.
Do you use Sequator to merge a long exposure foreground shot with ,say, 10 sky shots? Or do you just process stack the star shots in Sequator and then combine them with the foreground shot in LR or PS? Thanks
just used my first star tracker tonight, 10 x 4min exposures of the night sky. Should I edit each individually to bring out all the detail then stack or should i stack then bring out all the detail?
It really depends on your camera. Most people online recommend stacking your RAW photos, then taking that stacked image into Photoshop. This is a good idea if you also have dark frames and flat frames. However, I do things differently. I normally edit my RAW photos first. I want to fix the overall Exposure, White Balance, apply lens profile corrections, and any other small adjustments. Then I sync those changes with all of the photos. I save them as 16bit Tiff files next. Finally, I use Sequator to stack those Tiff files. I'd recommend trying both approaches and see what works better for you.
Hi Peter,thanks for the test.i did some test too. there are two problems. 1:the stacked image is always darker than the originals.short of dark side and white side according to histagram. 2:if there is a bright thing moving on foreground e.g. a car,we we will see a black stripe on stacked image,in that case we still need photoshop to mask it. did you test Registar? TKS
Hi, thank you for the tut! I tried Sequator in the past and never felt happy with the results, so I gave it another try now and its the same experience. It does not seem to matter which selection of settings I choose I end up with a much duller and lower exposed looking image compare to view one of the images making up up the stack in camera raw. Am I missing or doing something wrong or is that the way its suppose to be?
@@PeterZelinka Wide Angle. Since my post I am discovered that the follow works best for me. The images I important should be Tiff and not DGN. I also than have Auto Brightness and HDR set to On and my colourspace set to Linear. This yields the best results for me.
I try to use it with the latest 4.x WINE on Apple and it seems so fast and promising....BUT CRASHES AT THE END OF PROCESSING THE LAST IMAGE. Wish there was a Mac addict who would make a WINE bottle of this...
Well, I guess I know what I'll be testing out tomorrow 👍. DSS really is a pain to use and takes away all of the nice colours, and Photoshop...eugh, I have to do so much processing just to get my images (maybe) looking good enough to stack.
I will try having the camera and telephoto closer to the centre of the Star Adventurer as well as move the counter weight closer to the mount on the counterweight shaft. Tightening the clutch after polar alignment with Polemaster may solve the balance problem with long telephotos still within the weight limits of the mount.
If it took FITS files, Sequator would be even better. I use Sequator for my Milky Way shots taken with my Nikon, but my DSO shots (sometimes numbering in the 100’s for each target) captured with my dedicated Astro camera are FITS files. Anybody know a way to batch convert numerous FITS files to TIF files?
When i go to download the Microsoft Visual C++ it says my computer already has another version thats installed. So i tried to download the program and it wont run it? Any ideas...
I just found this video and it’s great. I’m still learning and finding my feet. How does this compare to Siril? I’ve been using that to stack plus I find it’s great at post processing also.
Sequator is useful for stacking separately the sky and the foreground. Siril can't do that, however gives much better results for "pure" astro shots, i.e. without any foreground.
Can someone tell me the BEST astrophotography lens that can mount a Canon like Canon T8i or Canon 90D? I heard of IRIX 15mm f/2.4 as well as Rokinon? Any suggestion of the BEST lens that is amazing in all aspects that can take nice shots of the Milky Way as well as Orion Nebula?
CelebrityLyrics I have no particular experience yet bu I'd say that a fast lense 2.8 and below are just nice! Rokinon is well known in this area because of their performance/price ratio. But Nikon, Canon, Tamron, Sigma lenses are all fine!
Hey Peter, a qns pls: I notice random blotches of green in the background of the sky, which also appeared in all my milk way photos. any idea what is that and how to get rid of it?
2 years old but if you or anyone else sees this, it's a similar process where instead of taking many exposures and stacking them, you actually record a video and use a program to stack all those hundreds/thousands of frames, AutoStakkert
@@PeterZelinka It's honestly really good, Sequator is probably better if you got a foreground but DSS does a pretty good job at handling big files and lots of it, I've tested with 69 exposures, almost 4 hours of integration time with drizzle, i guess the memory issue is resolved.
Dazza dizzy For the light frames, put a t-shirt on top of your lens and apply a light source like your smartphone or tablet on top. Take 10-15 shots with same ISO setting and speed as your sky pictures. This will reduce/eliminate the vignetting on your final photo.
Hey Peter, Could I get your thoughts please? I have just stacked 6 images and clicked open and it just seems to run forever, should it open directly in PS? I can see the stacked file in the folder but from within Sequator it doesn't open....CHeers Grahame
Hmmm, that's odd. I'm really not sure why it wouldn't open the TIFF into Photoshop. There's a ton of variables that might be causing that. If I had to guess, here are a few: Default program set to open TIFF files, random software bug, Photoshop version incompatibility, etc... I would simply navigate to the folder where you saved the TIFF file and either right click to 'Open With - Photoshop' or open the TIFF once you've started Photoshop. Either way should work fine and allow you to continue with the workflow
'DSS always stops, running out of memory' - really? Mine never has even processing 500+ 16mb subs with darks, flats, and dark flats. Takes maybe 5 minutes. Maybe your machine needs more memory?
DSS seems to have a deeper limiting magnitude --- you can see fainter stars, but it's subtle. As he said, Sequator is more grainy which would tend to drop out very faint stars. Yet both are good.
![Lil Uzi Vert - Chill Bae [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D7F42F_JM3U/mqdefault.jpg)
This is so easy to use! I came up with a nice picture before I even finish the video.
You should do all the instructional videos on the Internet, you have a such a pleasant voice! Many thanks!
Thanks Peter for taking your valuable time and sharing it with others.
I worked for NASA running the MOTS (MiniTrack Optical Tracking System) at Orroral Valley in Australia. Out spacecraft shots were captured on Kodak F103 10" x 8" Glass plates, Our camera/systems cost would bankrupt small Nations.
I mainly use Nikon today, Hasselblad and Linholf rail systems, .. display only now.
Time to down-load Sequator.... Thanks again Peter.
Just downloaded it and used it. Absolutely brilliant program, especially for wide field lens shots. Many thanks.
I use sequator since 1 year but i found your tutorial very interesting as a good refresh about how to manage or the difference characteristics.
Thanks
Agree, I have used sequator for a while for astro-landscapes and DSOs.
I've been looking for a Windows program that will do what Starry Landscape Stacker (Mac only) does, and this is probably better. You did a great job on the tutorial - it really helped me get started. I do have a few suggested workflow changes and a few comments:
* you can do this in Photoshop using layers, smart objects, and the mean or median blend mode. It takes a lot more time that this does, but it is possible (I have not had issues with align layers working)
* I'd suggest doing a dark frame at the start and end of the sequence, as the hot pixels are related to the heat developed in the sensor
* LR and ACR do have lens profiles for the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8, which is what I assume you're using - you have to manually select the lens (manufacturer, model) and do this on the RAW file (not a TIFF)
* I found that Sequator's results were much better when I did (almost) all the edits in post. I apply lens corrections only in LR and export the files as DNGs. The Rokinon 14mm is a fantastic lens for the money, but it does have a lot of barrel distortion.
* the light pollution filtering works really well. I had the best results with uneven/100% strength/intelligently-aggressive set
* Sequator does a good job of noise reduction (far better than reducing the noise in a single image) but the output files still need some noise reduction (I used Nik Dfine2). The light pollution removal (I think) also added a purplish line on the horizon which was easily removed with a manual chromatic aberration adjustment in LR.
* rather than setting all the options from scratch each time, save the project. For a new set, open the project (.sep file), replace the base frame and star images, and re-mask the sky
Thanks again for putting this together.
Very good video. FYI Pete mentioned using more than 10 pictures not being worth it. I happily disagree with Pete and followed what the deep sky guys do. This weekend I took and stacked 8 minutes worth of 6 second photos with my Nikon D3200 with a 35mm at f1.8 ISO400 and had INCREDIBLE results! I wish I could share a picture here. I turned on most of the settings - Auto Brightness, High Dynamic Range, Remove Dynamic Noise, Reduce Light Pollution. Very little post editing needed. The 24mm @f2.8 ISO400 and 18-70mm @ f3.5 ISO 400 also looked pretty good but not as much detail. I am trying to stitch together a a 6 picture pano of the 35mm to get more sky but am having trouble with differences in the color of the sky from picture to picture.
Thanks for the excellent tutorial, Peter. Just new to Sequator and you've saved me a ton of time.
i was looking around for rookie friendly AP programs and i found your channel , and since i am a rookie and you explained this so well that i even understood , i subscribed ,thanks a bunch
I use Sequator all the time. This has been a good refresher.
Thanks for your great video. Sequator worked perfectly well to render my milky way shoot at 14mm while Photoshop failed completely. I really appreciate your tutorials. Cheers.
Awesome vid. Just bought a Samyang 16mm f/2.0 for shooting the milky way. This tutorial is excellent and this software seems way less overwhelming than photoshop. Thanks, bro!
Peter, your demonstration of this software is spot-on. Great job of explaining.
That was very helpful. Hadn't heard of Sequator yet and hated the workarounds needed in DeepSkyStacker to get large files to work. Thanks!
I am just starting in astrophotography and need to know if you are using Sequator as a Photoshop plug-in? I have had my Ioptron Star Track Pro for a few years and just now am getting around to using it because your tutorials are great and easy to understand.
Never heard of this program. Thanks I can't wait to try it out
thanks for letting me know about this program. It‘s pretty good. I tried it. I needed an alternative because I recently encountered problems with deep sky stacker where it wouldn‘t stack all of my light frames, only half of them. They where shot at different nights and I tried many times with different file group tabs an so on,but nothing worked. And sequator seems to stack eyerthing, no problem at all.
great tutorial I was looking for tutorial in how to do stacking with GIMP. I am very glad I found your tutorial. Can't wait to go home and play, thanks.
Awesome tutorial. Can you please tell me how did you got rid of that tint with curves layer?
I van recommend to use Sequator with different light Pollution filters and autobrighyness on/of, getting different results and put them afterwards together with a HDR program to get more output from dark regions - especially from a dark foreground.
A mice feature in Sequator is the time lapses function to put let's say 5 images together and go through all images. So it is possible to get more dynamic in your time lapse.
Subscribed to your channel! I have been binging on the content! I have a few good shots of the Milky Way w/o using a tracker, and now that I have a tracker I am ready to take the next exciting steps :) Keep up the great work
Thanks for the info I downloaded it solved all my stacking computer issues
Best instructional on Sequator! Awesome job Peter
Thanks for sharing the great tool. The developer is a Taiwanese by the way.
Hi Peter - great tutorial! Thanks. Can you use it for the comet Neowise?
Peter...Thank you for all the amazing and informative videos. I am just getting started with shooting the night sky and have been taking a ton of notes from a lot of your videos. For now I am just going to be doing milky way with the rokinon 14 mm f2.8 on my Nikon d5600 and also using the skyguider pro you recommended in one of your videos. I had a question when it comes to stacking, besides the "lights" and "darks" which i think you mentioned can be done anywhere and anytime, when it comes to actually taking the pics of the foreground I assume the 2-4 minute exposure is with the skyguider not rotating...and then after that shot turn on the rotation for the milky way? When it comes to taking the pics of the milky way, once you find the right shutter speed (between 2-4 minutes) do you take lots of pics at that sweet spot and then stack them, or do you vary the time from pic to pic and then stack them? Lastly, with the camera on the skyguider is it possible to reduce the iso down to 400, or for night sky shots is it always best to shoot at iso 800 and above? Sorry for all the questions, Im just trying to make sure I am covering the main topics as I am planning on going to Cheery Springs State Park either Wed Aug 28th or 29th to shoot the milky way.
Great little tutorial, looking forward to getting stuck into your other vids. Subbed ✌️
I've been bouncing between Sequator and DSS, and always seem to be drawn back to Sequator. DSS does allow use of dark bias frames, but frankly, at my current skill level, I haven't noticed any improvement. Sequator is sooo unknown/underrated. Do the creator a favor and buy him a 'cup of coffee' (Paypal link on his website sites.google.com/site/sequatorglobal/encourage).
I am so confused about one thing when using Sequator. I take my star photos in RAW, open them in "PhotoDirector 10" do exactly what you suggest, then export the files to a folder as TIFF. I then proceed to open Sequator, and add the TIFF star images. I then get a message in the main screen "read failed! Unsupported format or invalid path. But at the sametime in the work box to the left, I can see all my TIFF files under Star Images with a green light. And the middle Base image purple.
Now if I do the exact same thing, but using RAW to import it works! I am told that it is better to use TIFF than RAW. I didn't even think Sequator would read RAW?
thanks so much, can't wait to give this program a try
Very nice presentation. Thanks for the tips!
Great video man! Regarding techniques to map your lens's vignetting....is there a difference in quality between the 2 methods you mentioned (Lightroom/Photoshop post-processing vs. photography a bright white frame)? The reason I ask, is that I have seen slight compromises in corner sharpness (i.e. the parts that were vignetted) when using the Lightroom method. Was just wondering if it would be worth the extra time and effort to do it the other way instead. Thanks!
I've honestly never bothered taking a flat frame to remove vignette. The Lens Corrections in Camera RAW / Lightroom should work fine 99% of the time
Peter Zelinka alrighty, cool
In a nutshell -- is there a huge difference in results between using a stacking program vs shooting long exposures with a tracker. Thanks for these great videos -- I'll keep watching.
I would say there is a noticeable difference. Stacking short exposures is a good first step, but a star tracker will take things to a new level.
You'll be able to pull out a lot more fine detail and color once you start shooting 2+ minute exposures. You could even stack multiple longer exposures together, but usually a single image is good enough.
The only real downside of using a star tracker, and taking longer exposures, is hot pixels. They tend to blend in with the stars, but I still find them to be a pain. There are ways to fix them, but I'm still trying a few different techniques to determine the best option
@@PeterZelinka Thanks for that -- The prospect of taking really good night sky shots has opened up new possibilities for me. When I am ready to get out there, I will definitely be taking your online course. Thanks again.
Hi, Peter - thank You for a good tutorial. One question for the Orion nebula - which lens/ focal length did you use for those photos?
Thank`s in advance.
Stein
Still waiting for that reply? lol
@@octavenoize He used Nikon D750 and Tamron 150-600
Great walkthrough, Peter!
Can this be use for deep sky objects, without landscape ?
I see a light source in your pic and yet still the milky way is clear before even to stack. What dose it take to have clear milky way with a light pollution.
Do you have to use a tracker for this program to work?
For wide field nightscape, do you prefer to stack or bring the tracker for 1 long exposure instead. Does this make the tracker less useful and more for just deepsky photos. Which has better quality?
I normally prefer using a star tracker. There are a few drawbacks though. Since I normally take a 4 minute exposure, I have a ton of hot pixels. Therefore, I used Long Exposure Noise Reduction, which effectively increases the total exposure time to 8 minutes. That's a long time to spend on a single photo.
I've gotten much better images overall when using a star tracker. Photo stacking isa good way to reduce grain, but it has its limits.
Awesome information Peter!!! What focal length did you use for Orion photos?
I believe I was at 600mm
ARE YOU SERIOUSS your base image is my own life goal on Milky Way lol
Where did you shoot that? Altitude, distance from abitations etc etc
Beautiful and helpful tutorial. Thank you
Hey man !! Amazing tutorial ! thanks for sharing !! I was wondering if you were using a tracker aswell ?
I used a star tracker for the Orion Nebula photos! A good star tracker is the best way to take better astro photos!
Cool Thanks man !!
Any idea why the Sequator screen goes black when I try to paint the sky to freeze the ground? I'm using ON1 Raw 2020 to export my images to Tiff. I'm using the latest version but also got the same results with an older version.
Hi, great tutorial. One question, can this programme be used for other photo stacking subjects such as macro, or is it just for astrophotography.
The algorithms are designed for astrophotography specifically. I would recommend using Photoshop to stack macro images
@@PeterZelinka ok thanks.
Sequator did a better job when I used my tamron lens for DSOs but now that I use the Redcat 51 Telescope, Deep Sky Stacker does the better job.
What was the focal length for the orion shot, on crop or full frame? Thanks
Just a quick question: Do you post-process the dark frames aswell? Or do you just put the raws in Sequator?
I personally edit all of my RAW files, including the dark frames, and save them as TIFFs first. Then I drop those into sequator.
The dark frames should have the same edits applied as the normal photos.
Editing the RAW files first helps to reduce the color noise and vignette, among other things.
I know many other people would argue that you should only use RAW photos and not do any editing before stacking, but I disagree.
Hey Peter, I wondered if you'd tried this program with trees or objects in the foreground and how it works around those ...??
Good question!
I actually don't have many stacked images with trees in them, but I did find one example to test.
It worked surprisingly well. There were a few artifacts around the trees, which looked like black star trails. Besides those minor streaks of black, everything else looked really good!
If you have a really complicated scene with trees, I think Sequator would have some problems. However, I do have a post-processing tutorial for blending complicated scenes like that in Photoshop. You can watch that video here:
ruclips.net/video/x2dVRoyyFrc/видео.html
It works OK if the foreground is dark, but if say you have trees light by porch lights against a dark sky it creates some weird halos.
Do you need anything to install, I tried they wanted me down Microsoft program but my computer said I couldn’t do it because I have a later version, can you get override this or will the new version work
Looks worth a try. Thanks for the great tutorial on it. What lens did you use for the Deep Space Orion photos?
I normally use the Tamron 150-600mm lens for my astro shots
So all you do to stack is take more than one picture? Or do those pictures have to be different exposures?
thanks for the great video!
Thanks Peter for the video. I would pronounce the program name like "equator" with an "s" in front. "See-quay-tor"
Sequator Down Sizes my files? - I have been using a Nikon D850 (8200 x 5500 pixels) for some astrophotography. Why is it when I run the images thru Sequator the output file is about 4144 x 2760? Am I missing something? I would like to keep the pixels if possible . Any ideas? The software work very well and is fast. By the way you have a great channel!
Hmm, that's odd. I haven't noticed that before. Are you running the RAW files through?
@@PeterZelinkaGot it figured out, my fault. I was using the 'merge 4 pixels' option. Therefore reducing the output file size. You have a good channel, keep up the good work. Thanks.
Do you use Sequator to merge a long exposure foreground shot with ,say, 10 sky shots? Or do you just process stack the star shots in Sequator and then combine them with the foreground shot in LR or PS? Thanks
Yeah, I do the blending in Photoshop usually. I only use Sequator to stack and align deep space shots or short exposures at wide angles
just used my first star tracker tonight, 10 x 4min exposures of the night sky. Should I edit each individually to bring out all the detail then stack or should i stack then bring out all the detail?
It really depends on your camera. Most people online recommend stacking your RAW photos, then taking that stacked image into Photoshop. This is a good idea if you also have dark frames and flat frames.
However, I do things differently. I normally edit my RAW photos first. I want to fix the overall Exposure, White Balance, apply lens profile corrections, and any other small adjustments. Then I sync those changes with all of the photos. I save them as 16bit Tiff files next. Finally, I use Sequator to stack those Tiff files.
I'd recommend trying both approaches and see what works better for you.
@@PeterZelinka Thanks for the reply, I'll give it a try.
Question is how does it work when you dont have a tracker and end up having to take a bunch of 1 sec photos?
Cool👍🏼 Thanks Pete!
I am getting a series of composition fails while stacking. Can you tell why it is happening?
I watched this video and immediately decided to download and try it. Unfortunately, it's a Windows-only application. sigh... back to DSS. ugh.
Hi Peter,thanks for the test.i did some test too.
there are two problems.
1:the stacked image is always darker than the originals.short of dark side and white side according to histagram.
2:if there is a bright thing moving on foreground e.g. a car,we we will see a black stripe on stacked image,in that case we still need photoshop to mask it.
did you test Registar?
TKS
There is an option in there to remove things like airplane trails but I have not tried it.
Awesome. Can't wait to try it out
Great tutorial mate!
Hi, thank you for the tut!
I tried Sequator in the past and never felt happy with the results, so I gave it another try now and its the same experience. It does not seem to matter which selection of settings I choose I end up with a much duller and lower exposed looking image compare to view one of the images making up up the stack in camera raw. Am I missing or doing something wrong or is that the way its suppose to be?
Are you doing wide angle or deep space?
I usually don't notice much of a difference, in terms of exposure and contrast.
@@PeterZelinka Wide Angle. Since my post I am discovered that the follow works best for me. The images I important should be Tiff and not DGN. I also than have Auto Brightness and HDR set to On and my colourspace set to Linear. This yields the best results for me.
Is it useful for stacking macro shots?
Definitely better than DSS and a hell of a lot faster!
Much faster than DSS. Also has light pollution correction. Have used both on DSO and milkyway and SEQ was better in both cases.
I try to use it with the latest 4.x WINE on Apple and it seems so fast and promising....BUT CRASHES AT THE END OF PROCESSING THE LAST IMAGE.
Wish there was a Mac addict who would make a WINE bottle of this...
The author is from Taiwan, not China. :)
Kudos for him on his work on Sequator.
Did the review ever mention the name of a location ? "The author is Chinese", no matter where he's from; It's ethnicity, stop politicize everything.
Very good job. Thank you.
Great tutorial. Thanks, Man!
Thank You very Much Dear Master
Well, I guess I know what I'll be testing out tomorrow 👍. DSS really is a pain to use and takes away all of the nice colours, and Photoshop...eugh, I have to do so much processing just to get my images (maybe) looking good enough to stack.
How do you balance a telephoto lens on a mount like the SkyGuider or Star Adventurer when they extend perpendicular to the counter-weight axis?
I will try having the camera and telephoto closer to the centre of the Star Adventurer as well as move the counter weight closer to the mount on the counterweight shaft. Tightening the clutch after polar alignment with Polemaster may solve the balance problem with long telephotos still within the weight limits of the mount.
Hey Peter! For whatever reason I'm getting error on sequator when stacking "Reducing Noise Failed". Any idea what might be causing that?
I'm not sure, that's the first I've heard of that error. I don't see it mentioned on his website either
Is it tiff or tif? Coz i just converted my RAF files to Tiff and now i get an error message "read failed. unsupported format or invalid path"
Tiff and Tif are the same thing. It sounds like the files may have gotten corrupted or something. I'd try redoing the process
Hi, can I use Sequator to export/import to On1 2020?
If it took FITS files, Sequator would be even better. I use Sequator for my Milky Way shots taken with my Nikon, but my DSO shots (sometimes numbering in the 100’s for each target) captured with my dedicated Astro camera are FITS files. Anybody know a way to batch convert numerous FITS files to TIF files?
Thanks!
Hey, is the orion shot tracked/what focal length did you use on that?
Yeah, that was around 600mm with a Tamron 150-600mm and the SkyGuider Pro
Can Sequator handle FITS files?
When i go to download the Microsoft Visual C++ it says my computer already has another version thats installed. So i tried to download the program and it wont run it? Any ideas...
I just found this video and it’s great. I’m still learning and finding my feet. How does this compare to Siril? I’ve been using that to stack plus I find it’s great at post processing also.
Sequator is useful for stacking separately the sky and the foreground. Siril can't do that, however gives much better results for "pure" astro shots, i.e. without any foreground.
Can someone tell me the BEST astrophotography lens that can mount a Canon like Canon T8i or Canon 90D? I heard of IRIX 15mm f/2.4 as well as Rokinon? Any suggestion of the BEST lens that is amazing in all aspects that can take nice shots of the Milky Way as well as Orion Nebula?
CelebrityLyrics I have no particular experience yet bu I'd say that a fast lense 2.8 and below are just nice! Rokinon is well known in this area because of their performance/price ratio. But Nikon, Canon, Tamron, Sigma lenses are all fine!
Thanks! Today I've opened this beautiful soft to mysels at last. )))
Hey Peter, a qns pls: I notice random blotches of green in the background of the sky, which also appeared in all my milk way photos. any idea what is that and how to get rid of it?
Airglow? Maybe?
Thank you. You convinced me. ;)
appears to work when running under LINUX MINT 19.3 with WINE.
Comet stacking possible ?
do you think this will work on photos of the moon
2 years old but if you or anyone else sees this, it's a similar process where instead of taking many exposures and stacking them, you actually record a video and use a program to stack all those hundreds/thousands of frames, AutoStakkert
Now that DSS is 64 bit i run DSS over this anyday.
I didn't realize they finally released a 64 bit version, I'll have to check that out! Thanks for the tip!
@@PeterZelinka It's honestly really good, Sequator is probably better if you got a foreground but DSS does a pretty good job at handling big files and lots of it, I've tested with 69 exposures, almost 4 hours of integration time with drizzle, i guess the memory issue is resolved.
I try stacking images even just 3 or 4 and just end up with a white over exposed "fog" , is that artificial light just stacking up?
Dazza dizzy For the light frames, put a t-shirt on top of your lens and apply a light source like your smartphone or tablet on top. Take 10-15 shots with same ISO setting and speed as your sky pictures. This will reduce/eliminate the vignetting on your final photo.
Hey Peter, Could I get your thoughts please? I have just stacked 6 images and clicked open and it just seems to run forever, should it open directly in PS? I can see the stacked file in the folder but from within Sequator it doesn't open....CHeers
Grahame
Hmmm, that's odd. I'm really not sure why it wouldn't open the TIFF into Photoshop. There's a ton of variables that might be causing that. If I had to guess, here are a few: Default program set to open TIFF files, random software bug, Photoshop version incompatibility, etc...
I would simply navigate to the folder where you saved the TIFF file and either right click to 'Open With - Photoshop' or open the TIFF once you've started Photoshop. Either way should work fine and allow you to continue with the workflow
Thanks Peter, problem solved (Y)
When you export your RAW as TIF, do you export as 16 bit or 32 bit float?
What stacking solutions are available for Mac?
The two main options are Starry Sky Stacker for deep space images, and Starry Landscape Stacker for wide angle photos.
'DSS always stops, running out of memory' - really? Mine never has even processing 500+ 16mb subs with darks, flats, and dark flats. Takes maybe 5 minutes. Maybe your machine needs more memory?
If I use boundary line in the Sky region, it's always red. Anyone knows how to fix it?
DSS seems to have a deeper limiting magnitude --- you can see fainter stars, but it's subtle. As he said, Sequator is more grainy which would tend to drop out very faint stars. Yet both are good.