This just came from UNI-T directly. "UTP1306S Input voltage:220V(can shift)±10% (No AC 110V ,please make notice) For 110V please buy UTP1306". So I was correct in my original answer, the S VERSION is 220V, buy the UTP1306 for 110V.
As you had a linear PSU to hand, it would have been informative to have compared the noise on a scope between the 2 units. Also to show how quickly the supply reached it's output setting. Were there any spikes at switch-on? Same for current limit. Did it kick in straight away?
Did you set 10mA CC mode and connect a LED straight to this PSU (w/o any resistance in series!). Did it blow or just light up as it should in CC mode? Like 15V 10mA CC mode. I heard that CC in that PSU is slow... would blow the LED up instead of providing 10mA as set since the start... too slow CC mode reaction. UPDATE. I have tested that with my unit. Some leds are burned to ash some survive. CC mode is too slow for very fragile semiconductors. It does work but with some lag, for some LEDs this is a death sentence as I have tested that on my own. Overall this is a very neat and portable device. M1-M3 are backlight enabled but it is so dimm that during the day it is barly visible :/
Nice standard built quality... High accuracy with standard input protection.. Nice switching circuitry inside..neat n clean.. Every thing is perfect... But price was little bit high.. I like UNI-T 👌👍
OK i managed to rework my unit... design is good but assembly of the thing was really a CRAP. 1) I had to re solder all the HOT wires with a very solid passthrough welding 2) Replaced the post-current shunt 470uF 50 volt output capacitor with a 1000uf 50 volt 3) Replaced the pre-current shunt 100uF output capacitor with the 470uF recycled from point 2 4) Added a ultrafast MUR120 protection Diode in parallel to the Output , very important for drive DC brushed motors... Cheers KK
UNI-T UT P1306S has 4 digit resolution, 3 memory storage option, over current protection, on/off protection, good built quality. It's a nice power supply ... Though I like my QJE QJ3005N for my laptop repairing job
I have had a problem with my UTP1306 - I selected the M2 button to set 5V out for a device I was testing. This is great, very convenient. But then I moved the power cable to a different wall socket and when the power came on the voltage jumped to 13V and my device smoked. There is some usability issue with these buttons - you have to remember to press them twice (the second press a long press) for the voltage to be stored for use after power failure otherwise the previous voltage used will be set after a power interruption. This is a bit odd and kind of spoils it.
Yikes, sorry to hear that. Yes preprogrammed defaults can be challenging. I usually wont connect my test device until I see the power source is correct. However, UNI-T should have a safeguard built in to prevent such an occurrence.
I just bought one of these. It has a few minor issues. 1. The blue LEDs behind the buttons are very, very dim - I can only see them in a dark room. 2. There was a loose piece of wire (looks like a bit of a snipped component lead) inside the coils of the current shunt on the front panel which could have been shorting out a turn of the shunt coil or could have fallen into the PCBs. 3. LED V\Amps reading is pretty accurate but I can't see how to adjust them? 4. No mains switch on the front panel - must reach round the back to switch power on\off. 5. If press one of the Memory buttons whilst the output is enabled, it immediately changes the output voltage to the new value. It would be safer for it to switch off the output and allow you to enable the new setting after checking the voltage is what you want. You could accidentally press one of the Memory buttons whilst adjusting O/P or CC with disastrous results. It has one major issue however - try this: Set O/P to 32V. Connect small load e.g. 1K or a bit less or no load. Enable output. Now switch off *mains* 230V AC power. The output will shoot up from 32V to 40V before going down slowly to 0V. If you set the O/P to 26V or below then there is no surge on power off. Also, if you connect a larger load (52R or more) then there is no surge. rmprepusb.blogspot.com/2019/12/evaluation-of-uni-t-utp1306s-32v-6a.html
Thanks Steve great info and surely will help others. I've heard similar feedback about the memory buttons, hopefully UNI-T will address this in a future update. Q/A is usually pretty good with UNI-T but it looks like your unit was not well inspected. Hopefully it will last, so far mine has performed quite admirably .
@@KeepOnTesting P.S. The front panel has a thin protective plastic film covering. Remove it to get a clearer display! If anyone knows how to make those blue LEDs brighter, please let me know. My unit also has that extra hole in the heatsink, I assume they use the same heatsink in another similar unit which requires this extra hole.
@@steve6375 Roger that, those blue LEDs should definitely be brighter , my unit displays it without any dimness at all. Hopefully we can get that fixed for you.
I'm interested in purchasing this power supply, but kind of confused. Is it a Linear power supply? If you check out the link on their official store on AliExpress it says it lists it as a switching power supply, then on another line it says linear? Strange. Link: www.aliexpress.com/item/33061530471.html I see yours has a voltage input switch, yet all the listings I see states its for 220v only (not 110v, check out model without the "S" - UTP1306). I'm so confused and any input would be appreciated!
It's a switching power supply..currently I have it running @120V ..UNI-T didn't market this very well so its often confused as a 220V only.. but no problems here.. 😃👍
Does a Over Current protection means that if I connect the DC Power Supply's two terminals together (To create short circuit) it will stop working or what?
No , it simply means that you must physically choose to OUTPUT the voltage / current before it will physically flow into your circuit. Something like a safety valve.
Darren, thanks for your breakdown. I have the unit now for a year or so. Yesterday I still used it set to 17.3V and 0.8 amp. Switching it on. It delivered the voltage and amps. Today I switch it on and the moment I turn it on it is set back to OV and OA. What could be the problem? Thanks for answering
liked your review, very informative. I have one and it's been working nicely for a couple of weeks, but now sa red padlock has appeared beside the voltage window. I cannot seem to unlock it. can anyone please help. John Hancock
Nice review! I'm choosing a new amateur DC power supply between UNI-T 1306S and Wanptek ASP3010. 10 amps vs. 6 amps - it doesn't matter. Could you please advise which I should prefer?
I have purchased udp1306c its in transit, price difference between s and c is huge. I guess c is linear type and also have watt meter on display. can you please figure out some more differences for me? and plz tell me what type of things I can do with usb communication. I got udp1306C for 160usd
Its a great 👍 looking powerful power supply! I haven't reviewed it yet so I can't attest to its feature set..but I'm sure you will be pleased. Give us some feedback once you've tried it out...😀
@@KeepOnTesting Yep everything fine , just a very small preponderance of the green display. I can do an easy fix ... but hardware... maybe there is an hidden sw menu for regulate the brightness ? Probablt not...
@@MrKkprince Great 👍 No sub setting for display brightness although that would definitely be cool! I'll ask UNI-T directly and report back...might take awhile..
@@KeepOnTesting Ok ..It 's xmas time... I do not want to re-engineer things today... but ...I managed to remove the very front cover , the led driver is the TM1638 and should be ok as it cannot set the brightness individually for each 7segment digit. The green 4 digit display block is a QHL5641AHGG while the red one is a QH5461AHB-32 ... I think the difference in bright it's normal as the two are different bits... ah they also forgot to peel off the protective plastic on the red array... after removed situation is better... I quit for now... Happy XMAS !
I've ran the PSU at 6A for 45 min and it was fine. Many hours I can't say but we all know since heat plays a major factor in electronics longevity, the higher the workload the more heat generated..usually not a good thing.
Hey Darren, first of all great review! It helped me a lot when i was considering what to buy. I do have one question... i dont quite understand what the ovp and ocp buttons do, and the manual is very vague about it. Could you elaborate a little on it? Its my first bench power supply. Thanks!
Hi Ricardo, OCP / OVP are features that utilize one or more circuits to prevent a power supply from delivering more current or voltage than it was designed for or that its circuits can handle. It basically throttles the current or voltage negating any excess or bias to prevent damage. Thanks for watching!
Yes Hermann, It had very little ripple/noise...and the rush current was negligible..non existant when booting the unit. Definately a step up from the atypical DC Power supply.
Dear guy, do you have oscilloscope to do some tests with this device? CC mode looks like bit to slow and I have recently burned one device... too sad as this looked like price/value winner.
@@KeepOnTesting Take 3mm LED or other small one. Set like 7V(?) and 10mA CC, I have burned a few as it did provide 10mA but to late, had to pass through some more amps before it switched to desired CC of 10mA (no R in series!). Too bad saw magic smoke! Next one issue I had: LED strip switch with mosfet and 10 leds. 24V, whole circuit drew 33mA so I set CC to 40mA just in case you know! And shit happend I've short ciurcuited LED strip. It did not switch to max 40mA on time as mosfet stopped working (always conducted ever since). CC mode did kick in as CC red led showed up, but that was tooo late. Did not dismantle this device, maybe there is a beefy cap inside just at the leads? But c'mon this mosfet was able to handle 6A afair (small smd one). So oscilloscope would be halpful to check how fast CC kicks in and what Amps goes since T0 (short) to actuall CC working state. Please do some easy tests green/red LEDS burn challange, some 5mm yellow is capable of surviving laggy CC mode with this PSU thou. Mosts die... But my led controller with some strong mosfet did not get any chances! WTF? Will post amazone review (sort by the worst score) and maybe later check that dude findings but please, please check the time needed for CC to kick in for LED, some mosfets +Amps dreawn in real life - on the short circuit case. Maybe also test OCP mode, maybe this one is faster? Like I have 7V, bare small LED, 20mA OCP, would LED perish or not? Anyway I bought that unit for CC mode to protect devices from my mistakes during DIY tests or repairs... Thanks A LOT. Greetings from cold west EU :-)
@@Krionix81 @Krionix81 Roger that. I'll try those suggestions and let you know what I find. Sounds like your unit might be a dud but will see. Btw, When you set the CC to say 1 amp, you are telling the power supply to allow no more than 1 amp through the load. The load can draw whatever it needs - up to that 1 amp limit. If it tries to draw more, then the power supply will reduce the voltage as required to maintain 1 amp maximum. This should be instantaneous otherwise what's the point of a cc mode 🤔
@@KeepOnTesting Osc. will show the naked truth (I dont have any), my unit is brand new. I like the form factor, well known brand but... not counting LED I lost that LED driver. Some odd UI things can be noted as well, push the knob and it should go back to the last digit changed, not the less significat one (tedious to do frequent changes). Switching from M1 do M3 will not tun off the output SADLY, super EASY to burn device just pressing the wrong Mx button :/ Default timeout while setting CC/O*P is just 1s? Should be longer imho. Super dimm LED backlight of M* buttons and O*P however I like they made them lit but soooo weak light is easly overpowered by daylight. God damn it. Did they test that in the dark pit hole? Anyways CC mode should be fast enought to protect the devices, ohm law still existign so yes V down (however if there is a huge filterign CAP just before leads are hooked up this is not good right). I belive that 32V 10mA could be dangerous but not 7V 10mA burning the LED that would draw just few mA. Plese do the various tests and make graphs (check the Amazon dude). Focus on CC in normal life, not just "Edge" situations that hardly ever happen. Why my 6A mosfet burned with CC of 40mA I bet I set that correctly, 100% sure some LED did not survive former "just PSU +bare LED" tests. Have a good one!
Can you please do a 1 hour or longer smoke test by shorting the output and running it at the full amperage? Most cheap power supplies I've tested fail or burn a simple test like that.
New sellers are adding confusing description, and UNI-T still doesn't have this product on their website. Question: Is this Linear or switching power supply ??
What is the difference from UTP 1306 to UTP 1306S ??
UTP1306S 220V / UTP1306 110V, identical specs.
@@KeepOnTesting Not. 1306 is more expensive that 1306S.
Theo tão have 110/220 selector from back
I think one is digital and the other analog internal
@@DeepOf I'll contact UNI-T for clarification and report back when I get more information. 👍
This just came from UNI-T directly.
"UTP1306S Input voltage:220V(can shift)±10% (No AC 110V ,please make notice) For 110V please buy UTP1306".
So I was correct in my original answer, the S VERSION is 220V, buy the UTP1306 for 110V.
As you had a linear PSU to hand, it would have been informative to have compared the noise on a scope between the 2 units. Also to show how quickly the supply reached it's output setting. Were there any spikes at switch-on? Same for current limit. Did it kick in straight away?
Did you set 10mA CC mode and connect a LED straight to this PSU (w/o any resistance in series!). Did it blow or just light up as it should in CC mode? Like 15V 10mA CC mode. I heard that CC in that PSU is slow... would blow the LED up instead of providing 10mA as set since the start... too slow CC mode reaction. UPDATE. I have tested that with my unit. Some leds are burned to ash some survive. CC mode is too slow for very fragile semiconductors. It does work but with some lag, for some LEDs this is a death sentence as I have tested that on my own. Overall this is a very neat and portable device. M1-M3 are backlight enabled but it is so dimm that during the day it is barly visible :/
Hi Darren, Have the UTP 305D for a while now and nothing to complain about.Very happy with Products
Hi Todd, great stuff...I'm really liking their power supplies as of late...hope the vid made it in time for coffee😉
I'm looking at buying one of these from this company, so thanks for showing us inside which is important as "the business end" of things. Good review.
Many thx! Indeed, those Internals are so important they really show you how good/bad a product is built!
Nice standard built quality... High accuracy with standard input protection.. Nice switching circuitry inside..neat n clean.. Every thing is perfect... But price was little bit high.. I like UNI-T 👌👍
It's proven itself.. 1 year later and still tough as nails! Quiet too...very nice 👌
OK i managed to rework my unit... design is good but assembly of the thing was really a CRAP.
1) I had to re solder all the HOT wires with a very solid passthrough welding
2) Replaced the post-current shunt 470uF 50 volt output capacitor with a 1000uf 50 volt
3) Replaced the pre-current shunt 100uF output capacitor with the 470uF recycled from point 2
4) Added a ultrafast MUR120 protection Diode in parallel to the Output , very important for drive DC brushed motors...
Cheers
KK
UNI-T UT P1306S has 4 digit resolution, 3 memory storage option, over current protection, on/off protection, good built quality. It's a nice power supply ... Though I like my QJE QJ3005N for my laptop repairing job
I have had a problem with my UTP1306 - I selected the M2 button to set 5V out for a device I was testing. This is great, very convenient. But then I moved the power cable to a different wall socket and when the power came on the voltage jumped to 13V and my device smoked. There is some usability issue with these buttons - you have to remember to press them twice (the second press a long press) for the voltage to be stored for use after power failure otherwise the previous voltage used will be set after a power interruption. This is a bit odd and kind of spoils it.
Yikes, sorry to hear that. Yes preprogrammed defaults can be challenging. I usually wont connect my test device until I see the power source is correct. However, UNI-T should have a safeguard built in to prevent such an occurrence.
I just bought one of these. It has a few minor issues.
1. The blue LEDs behind the buttons are very, very dim - I can only see them in a dark room.
2. There was a loose piece of wire (looks like a bit of a snipped component lead) inside the coils of the current shunt on the front panel which could have been shorting out a turn of the shunt coil or could have fallen into the PCBs.
3. LED V\Amps reading is pretty accurate but I can't see how to adjust them?
4. No mains switch on the front panel - must reach round the back to switch power on\off.
5. If press one of the Memory buttons whilst the output is enabled, it immediately changes the output voltage to the new value. It would be safer for it to switch off the output and allow you to enable the new setting after checking the voltage is what you want. You could accidentally press one of the Memory buttons whilst adjusting O/P or CC with disastrous results.
It has one major issue however - try this:
Set O/P to 32V. Connect small load e.g. 1K or a bit less or no load. Enable output. Now switch off *mains* 230V AC power. The output will shoot up from 32V to 40V before going down slowly to 0V. If you set the O/P to 26V or below then there is no surge on power off. Also, if you connect a larger load (52R or more) then there is no surge.
rmprepusb.blogspot.com/2019/12/evaluation-of-uni-t-utp1306s-32v-6a.html
Thanks Steve great info and surely will help others. I've heard similar feedback about the memory buttons, hopefully UNI-T will address this in a future update. Q/A is usually pretty good with UNI-T but it looks like your unit was not well inspected. Hopefully it will last, so far mine has performed quite admirably .
@@KeepOnTesting P.S. The front panel has a thin protective plastic film covering. Remove it to get a clearer display! If anyone knows how to make those blue LEDs brighter, please let me know.
My unit also has that extra hole in the heatsink, I assume they use the same heatsink in another similar unit which requires this extra hole.
@@steve6375 Roger that, those blue LEDs should definitely be brighter , my unit displays it without any dimness at all. Hopefully we can get that fixed for you.
@5:30 Yes, I could hear something. I could hear thump,thump,thump,thump.
I'm interested in purchasing this power supply, but kind of confused. Is it a Linear power supply? If you check out the link on their official store on AliExpress it says it lists it as a switching power supply, then on another line it says linear? Strange. Link: www.aliexpress.com/item/33061530471.html
I see yours has a voltage input switch, yet all the listings I see states its for 220v only (not 110v, check out model without the "S" - UTP1306). I'm so confused and any input would be appreciated!
It's a switching power supply..currently I have it running @120V ..UNI-T didn't market this very well so its often confused as a 220V only.. but no problems here.. 😃👍
Nice review, next time you test a PSU you should test the accuracy at low currents such as 1 mA output.
Will do Nestor ! Thx further feedback 👍
Drilled hole is actually an ic fixed from other side of the heat sink
The hole is for the mosfet screw on the other side
Does a Over Current protection means that if I connect the DC Power Supply's two terminals together (To create short circuit) it will stop working or what?
No , it simply means that you must physically choose to OUTPUT the voltage / current before it will physically flow into your circuit. Something like a safety valve.
Darren, thanks for your breakdown. I have the unit now for a year or so. Yesterday I still used it set to 17.3V and 0.8 amp. Switching it on. It delivered the voltage and amps. Today I switch it on and the moment I turn it on it is set back to OV and OA. What could be the problem? Thanks for answering
Did you check the fuse to see if it's blown?
@@KeepOnTesting I opened it up but could not find any fuse.
liked your review, very informative. I have one and it's been working nicely for a couple of weeks, but now sa red padlock has appeared beside the voltage window. I cannot seem to unlock it. can anyone please help. John Hancock
Nice review! I'm choosing a new amateur DC power supply between UNI-T 1306S and Wanptek ASP3010. 10 amps vs. 6 amps - it doesn't matter. Could you please advise which I should prefer?
Well the UNI-T is used almost everyday and it's still going strong.. hard not to reccommend this power supply! 😀👍
I have purchased udp1306c its in transit, price difference between s and c is huge. I guess c is linear type and also have watt meter on display.
can you please figure out some more differences for me?
and plz tell me what type of things I can do with usb communication.
I got udp1306C for 160usd
Its a great 👍 looking powerful power supply! I haven't reviewed it yet so I can't attest to its feature set..but I'm sure you will be pleased. Give us some feedback once you've tried it out...😀
How I like the small form factor.Can't decide if this or the Korad 3005.
I'm doing a head to head review next month with both!! Stay tuned!
What is the size of that fan. Considering ordering this power supply and a noctua fan of similar spec for utmost quiet operation.
I would hasten a guess and say 40mm...hope that helps!
Any hint for balancing the brightness of the red \ green display without making too much mess ? My red is less bright than green display.
😕 Besides the brightness is everything else operational / running normally ?
@@KeepOnTesting Yep everything fine , just a very small preponderance of the green display. I can do an easy fix ... but hardware... maybe there is an hidden sw menu for regulate the brightness ? Probablt not...
@@MrKkprince Great 👍 No sub setting for display brightness although that would definitely be cool! I'll ask UNI-T directly and report back...might take awhile..
@@KeepOnTesting Ok ..It 's xmas time... I do not want to re-engineer things today... but ...I managed to remove the very front cover , the led driver is the TM1638 and should be ok as it cannot set the brightness individually for each 7segment digit. The green 4 digit display block is a QHL5641AHGG while the red one is a QH5461AHB-32 ... I think the difference in bright it's normal as the two are different bits... ah they also forgot to peel off the protective plastic on the red array... after removed situation is better... I quit for now... Happy XMAS !
@@MrKkprince Great to hear ! Merry Xmas!
Wondering can the psu sustain the supply at 32v/6A for many hours as specified.
I've ran the PSU at 6A for 45 min and it was fine. Many hours I can't say but we all know since heat plays a major factor in electronics longevity, the higher the workload the more heat generated..usually not a good thing.
Is that 6 A at 32v ? I know thats quite a lot of power draw.. may be a 12v car headlight bulb only can resulted that high powe output...
Hi Darren.What do you think if you compare this power supply with the Korad KD3005d?.Thank you.
I'm actually looking into some KORAD PS right now! 👍
@@KeepOnTesting Thanks!. Because I'm thinking which one I'm going
to buy.
@@HenryTori1234 Roger that! Its either the KD3005D or the KA3305D
@@KeepOnTesting Sorry, it's the KA3005P
what is the difference between this & udp1306c
UDP1306C includes an external USB drive, switchable 110/220V and RS232 connectivity
Hey Darren, first of all great review! It helped me a lot when i was considering what to buy. I do have one question... i dont quite understand what the ovp and ocp buttons do, and the manual is very vague about it. Could you elaborate a little on it? Its my first bench power supply.
Thanks!
Hi Ricardo, OCP / OVP are features that utilize one or more circuits to prevent a power supply from delivering more current or voltage than it was designed for or that its circuits can handle. It basically throttles the current or voltage negating any excess or bias to prevent damage. Thanks for watching!
have U tried to test with osciloscope.... curious to see the noise, rush current etc... anyway, thanks for this review ;)
Yes Hermann, It had very little ripple/noise...and the rush current was negligible..non existant when booting the unit. Definately a step up from the atypical DC Power supply.
Dear guy, do you have oscilloscope to do some tests with this device? CC
mode looks like bit to slow and I have recently burned one device...
too sad as this looked like price/value winner.
No problem, what kinds of tests were you looking to see ?
@@KeepOnTesting Take 3mm LED or other small one. Set like 7V(?) and 10mA CC, I have burned a few as it did provide 10mA but to late, had to pass through some more amps before it switched to desired CC of 10mA (no R in series!). Too bad saw magic smoke! Next one issue I had: LED strip switch with mosfet and 10 leds. 24V, whole circuit drew 33mA so I set CC to 40mA just in case you know! And shit happend I've short ciurcuited LED strip. It did not switch to max 40mA on time as mosfet stopped working (always conducted ever since). CC mode did kick in as CC red led showed up, but that was tooo late.
Did not dismantle this device, maybe there is a beefy cap inside just at the leads? But c'mon this mosfet was able to handle 6A afair (small smd one). So oscilloscope would be halpful to check how fast CC kicks in and what Amps goes since T0 (short) to actuall CC working state.
Please do some easy tests green/red LEDS burn challange, some 5mm yellow is capable of surviving laggy CC mode with this PSU thou. Mosts die...
But my led controller with some strong mosfet did not get any chances! WTF? Will post amazone review (sort by the worst score) and maybe later check that dude findings but please, please check the time needed for CC to kick in for LED, some mosfets +Amps dreawn in real life - on the short circuit case.
Maybe also test OCP mode, maybe this one is faster? Like I have 7V, bare small LED, 20mA OCP, would LED perish or not? Anyway I bought that unit for CC mode to protect devices from my mistakes during DIY tests or repairs...
Thanks A LOT. Greetings from cold west EU :-)
@@Krionix81 @Krionix81 Roger that. I'll try those suggestions and let you know what I find. Sounds like your unit might be a dud but will see. Btw, When you set the CC to say 1 amp, you are telling the power supply to allow no more than 1 amp through the load. The load can draw whatever it needs - up to that 1 amp limit. If it tries to draw more, then the power supply will reduce the voltage as required to maintain 1 amp maximum. This should be instantaneous otherwise what's the point of a cc mode 🤔
@@KeepOnTesting Osc. will show the naked truth (I dont have any), my unit is brand new. I like the form factor, well known brand but... not counting LED I lost that LED driver. Some odd UI things can be noted as well, push the knob and it should go back to the last digit changed, not the less significat one (tedious to do frequent changes). Switching from M1 do M3 will not tun off the output SADLY, super EASY to burn device just pressing the wrong Mx button :/ Default timeout while setting CC/O*P is just 1s? Should be longer imho. Super dimm LED backlight of M* buttons and O*P however I like they made them lit but soooo weak light is easly overpowered by daylight. God damn it. Did they test that in the dark pit hole? Anyways CC mode should be fast enought to protect the devices, ohm law still existign so yes V down (however if there is a huge filterign CAP just before leads are hooked up this is not good right). I belive that 32V 10mA could be dangerous but not 7V 10mA burning the LED that would draw just few mA. Plese do the various tests and make graphs (check the Amazon dude). Focus on CC in normal life, not just "Edge" situations that hardly ever happen. Why my 6A mosfet burned with CC of 40mA I bet I set that correctly, 100% sure some LED did not survive former "just PSU +bare LED" tests. Have a good one!
@@KeepOnTesting hi, did you have time to make those crucial tests? TIA
Can you please do a 1 hour or longer smoke test by shorting the output and running it at the full amperage? Most cheap power supplies I've tested fail or burn a simple test like that.
Hi SD, it was badically a mini review, I hope to do a more exhaustive comparison in the near future.
@@KeepOnTesting Cool, I look forward to watching it. Thanks for all your great work.
From 0 to 10 what grade do you give to this source?
Hi Sergio, what do you mean by "source", are you referring to the supplier of the Power Supply or something else...? Thx
@@KeepOnTesting power supply
My ratings are based on 5 STARS.
I rated this unit 3.5 Stars/5.
That's a very good rating.
Why this product is not listed on their official website?? Did someone made a fake Uni-T ?? 🧐
The UNI-T website is notoriously slow at implementing new products into their online catalogue.
New sellers are adding confusing description, and UNI-T still doesn't have this product on their website.
Question: Is this Linear or switching power supply ??
UTP1306S IS a linear power supply.
Correct, UNI-T still doesn't have this power supply listed on its website..not sure why there is a delay?
@@KeepOnTesting
Thanks for the reply. I'm still deciding between that and Korad KA3005D
Korad looks quite beefy...do you have any special purpose in mind for the PS?
@@KeepOnTesting
To find shorts on the motherboards 😀
You mean switching, right? As your more recent comment says in another thread.
110 V AC AVAILABLE?
Yes indeed...I've informed the seller to update the Ebay link..should be done shortly..
UTP1306S Input voltage:220V(can shift)±10% (No AC 110V ) For 110V please buy UTP1306