Have you tried using an Anova Precision sous vide immersion heater for the water bath? I know it's another gadget, but it will keep a bath at +/- 0.1C anywhere between 25C and 100C. It's also cheap.
Hi! I have a question: How much gelatin in the 1000ml of water? How much sugar in the 1000ml of water? How much ink in the 1000ml of glop? thank You very much.
***** It's a wonderful technique. A few years ago an old friend of mine was clearing out his analog darkroom and gave me a pack of Ilford Ilfobrom fiber paper. From the design of the packaging, it made the paper around 30 years old! Still good. Just fix it out without exposing it, hang to dry and you're good to go. I've been using it for all of my carbon prints and it works beautifully. In fact any Ilford paper will work nicely, though the Ilfobrom fiber paper is best. Not too glossy and a nice warm tone. The paper I use has a subtle stippled texture, which I don't think is available any more, at least not through Ilford.
The negative can be either a specially developed analog neg or a tonally adjusted inkjet one. I've mostly used inkjet negs, which are manipulated in Photoshop so that the tones print correctly with the salt process. The only successful analog print I've made was with a severely underdeveloped glass negative. Correctly exposed material makes a really bad print.
I've yet to try describing the negative making process in a video. It's very complicated due to the number of steps involved, which every photographer does differently. There are issues with temperature, humidity, mating process, glop thickness, light source, sensitizer dilution, you name it. A negative needs to be created to suit each photographer's workflow. Create a consistent workflow, then create a negative that will produce the correct tonal range for that workflow. I tried using my teacher's negative method and got bad results. I had to play around with my Photoshop curves for days before I found a process that gave me a standard set of adjustments that worked for me. Print a step wedge, check the results, adjust accordingly, repeat until your blacks, mids and highlights come through correctly.
hello i have been trying to make a carbon pint for a while and every time i try to do it the tissue doesn't expose right and when i try to transfer it it dose not work. i put it in the hot water and it just separates iv tried and tried but nothing works how are u able to do it I'm use knox gelliton not 250 is that the problem I' have no clue. can you help pleas?
+mathew stern Can't be certain as I don't know your entire process, but it's likely that the gelatine is the problem. It needs to be 250 bloom or it won't harden enough on the paper. Try that first and see if there is an improvement.
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Have you tried using an Anova Precision sous vide immersion heater for the water bath? I know it's another gadget, but it will keep a bath at +/- 0.1C anywhere between 25C and 100C. It's also cheap.
Can’t wait for Part Two
Do you use Bichromates/Dichromates in this process ?
can you add the amounts of material needed? how much of the albumen is needed for the 900ml of dest. water ? how much ink ? please...
Hi! I have a question: How much gelatin in the 1000ml of water? How much
sugar in the 1000ml of water? How much ink in the 1000ml of glop? thank You very much.
+Enrico Giuga 80g gelatin,, 50g sugar, 20g ink.
+GPV Photography thank You so much!
@@GOPhotoVideo but looks like you put in 40 grams in the video.
@@hollishall3134 looks like but he's on a scale...
I fell in love with this technique, can help but ask you, what kind of paper are you using for your print or what would you recommend?
***** It's a wonderful technique. A few years ago an old friend of mine was clearing out his analog darkroom and gave me a pack of Ilford Ilfobrom fiber paper. From the design of the packaging, it made the paper around 30 years old! Still good. Just fix it out without exposing it, hang to dry and you're good to go. I've been using it for all of my carbon prints and it works beautifully. In fact any Ilford paper will work nicely, though the Ilfobrom fiber paper is best. Not too glossy and a nice warm tone. The paper I use has a subtle stippled texture, which I don't think is available any more, at least not through Ilford.
Thank you so much (:
Hi. I'm very intrigued by this; one question about the negative. Is it a "Normal" large format negative or was it also an "Alt process" product too?
The negative can be either a specially developed analog neg or a tonally adjusted inkjet one. I've mostly used inkjet negs, which are manipulated in Photoshop so that the tones print correctly with the salt process. The only successful analog print I've made was with a severely underdeveloped glass negative. Correctly exposed material makes a really bad print.
Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. May I ask how you produce the inkjet negative, or is that another video that I failed to notice?
I've yet to try describing the negative making process in a video. It's very complicated due to the number of steps involved, which every photographer does differently. There are issues with temperature, humidity, mating process, glop thickness, light source, sensitizer dilution, you name it. A negative needs to be created to suit each photographer's workflow. Create a consistent workflow, then create a negative that will produce the correct tonal range for that workflow. I tried using my teacher's negative method and got bad results. I had to play around with my Photoshop curves for days before I found a process that gave me a standard set of adjustments that worked for me. Print a step wedge, check the results, adjust accordingly, repeat until your blacks, mids and highlights come through correctly.
Thank you again, have a happy and prosperous New Year!
hello i have been trying to make a carbon pint for a while and every time i try to do it the tissue doesn't expose right and when i try to transfer it it dose not work. i put it in the hot water and it just separates iv tried and tried but nothing works how are u able to do it I'm use knox gelliton not 250 is that the problem I' have no clue. can you help pleas?
+mathew stern Can't be certain as I don't know your entire process, but it's likely that the gelatine is the problem. It needs to be 250 bloom or it won't harden enough on the paper. Try that first and see if there is an improvement.
thank you so much
What about paper sizing?
No sizing necessary when using fibre-based photographic paper.
This video could easily be cut to just one minute.