Thanks for the video! I think it's also worth mentioning that you should torque the bolts only when the control arm is pre-loaded (1 degree below horizontal position). Also, remember that there are three ball joint types for a 9-5 (at least in Europe): 1. 18 mm pinch, 8 mm holes 2. 18 mm pinch, 10 mm holes (aka. special ball joint) 3. 20 mm pinch, 10 mm holes The second one is very rare and expensive. I believe that according to TSB 731-2472 SAAB required drilling the old-type ball joint holes (see 1. above) to make them fit the new 10 mm screws. If you have an older vehicle, it's easier to simply insert a small steel washers (outer diameter: 10 mm, inner diameter: 8 mm) into the new control arms and use the 8 mm bolts. Seems safer than drilling holes in the ball joint.
Good video. I highly recommend AGAINST the Bilstein/Febi ball joints unless you only drive on glass. Here in New England they don't stand a chance. Moog is the only way to go on the mean streets of Boston.
That would be your judgement call. Try to twist it first. It's a ball joint so it has complete mobility built in, but you are right you don't want to mess the boot up. However, taking the boot off might have a greater probability of damage so, good luck!
Hi guys - do you have maybye more detailed video about subframe bushings replacement (powerflex) that the one which is already on YT (it only 2 min. long withought much details). Appreciate :)
Sorry Marcin, we have no intention on adding that but if you would like to leave questions on the blog post we would be more than happy to answer them. www.eeuroparts.com/blog/9475/back-woods-saab-9-5-subframe-bushings-diy/
There are multiple stiffnesses for polyurethane, so each product will be a little different. For example the Powerflex Black bushings will be much stiffer than Powerflex Street (purple). The Proparts poly bushings are a little stiffer than stock, but not a considerable amount. You will not be able to detect a noticeable difference in ride harshness.
is there a reason to replace the lower arm and not just get the rebuild kit? I bought eeuros performance rebuild kit and have everything just about disassembled....
I bought a new front lower control arm, and found that the nut which holds the large rear bush (the one with the metal casing), hand-turns only half way up the bolt and doesn't reach the large bushing. Is there a reason for this? Does using a machine turn the nut the full way, securing the bushing. Can you please help me with this question.?
Are you saying you are having issues threading the nut? If you bought the part from us, contact customer service with a photo and your VIN and they'll be able to help you out specifically.
After 22 emails, I finally found out that the nut is called an elliptic offset nut, which needs a spanner to screw right in securely. That was from Parts In Motion, who finally asked the manufacturers, which they should have done in the first place.
I'm a bit confused with the lower control arm rear bushing (in the metal casing) because when i torque it up to spec i.e. 77 ft-lbs, it the control arm cannot pivot within the bushing? Also when you install the lower control arm in its place there is not enough space to fit a torque wrench on it. any feedback would be appreciated.
That's OK. Silentblock is working by its elasticity between inner and upper side. But you need to torque them with the all weight of the car with installed wheel, not how it was shawn in this video.
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Thanks for the video! I think it's also worth mentioning that you should torque the bolts only when the control arm is pre-loaded (1 degree below horizontal position). Also, remember that there are three ball joint types for a 9-5 (at least in Europe):
1. 18 mm pinch, 8 mm holes
2. 18 mm pinch, 10 mm holes (aka. special ball joint)
3. 20 mm pinch, 10 mm holes
The second one is very rare and expensive. I believe that according to TSB 731-2472 SAAB required drilling the old-type ball joint holes (see 1. above) to make them fit the new 10 mm screws.
If you have an older vehicle, it's easier to simply insert a small steel washers (outer diameter: 10 mm, inner diameter: 8 mm) into the new control arms and use the 8 mm bolts. Seems safer than drilling holes in the ball joint.
oohh yes
Good video. I highly recommend AGAINST the Bilstein/Febi ball joints unless you only drive on glass. Here in New England they don't stand a chance. Moog is the only way to go on the mean streets of Boston.
Very cool video, clearly makes sense to buy the whole wishbone in one go and at around £80 they are actually not expensive!
Those wheels are gorgeous, clearly a Saab owned by someone who's taking good care of her! Great vid as always eEuro
You are everywhere 😁
@@Saabman89 As are you 😉
I recommend your electronic rebuild vids all the time
@@saabross3171 😚😚😚🥰
Funny, subtitles show torque specs but dude never uses a torque wrench once. Practice what you preach.
Is there a list of tools that are required
I have a question. The groove on the ball joint is way off center. Should I just twist it into place or remove the rubber sleeve first?
That would be your judgement call. Try to twist it first. It's a ball joint so it has complete mobility built in, but you are right you don't want to mess the boot up. However, taking the boot off might have a greater probability of damage so, good luck!
Why want to change the Part.
Hi guys - do you have maybye more detailed video about subframe bushings replacement (powerflex) that the one which is already on YT (it only 2 min. long withought much details). Appreciate :)
Sorry Marcin, we have no intention on adding that but if you would like to leave questions on the blog post we would be more than happy to answer them. www.eeuroparts.com/blog/9475/back-woods-saab-9-5-subframe-bushings-diy/
eEuroparts.com thx for the blog link. Are those poly bushings the same stiffness as the OEM bushings?
There are multiple stiffnesses for polyurethane, so each product will be a little different. For example the Powerflex Black bushings will be much stiffer than Powerflex Street (purple). The Proparts poly bushings are a little stiffer than stock, but not a considerable amount. You will not be able to detect a noticeable difference in ride harshness.
Awesome, thanks for posting 👍
is there a reason to replace the lower arm and not just get the rebuild kit? I bought eeuros performance rebuild kit and have everything just about disassembled....
Only for ease of installation. The performance rebuild kit is a better option for enthusiasts for sure.
I bought a new front lower control arm, and found that the nut which holds the large rear bush (the one with the metal casing), hand-turns only half way up the bolt and doesn't reach the large bushing. Is there a reason for this? Does using a machine turn the nut the full way, securing the bushing. Can you please help me with this question.?
Are you saying you are having issues threading the nut? If you bought the part from us, contact customer service with a photo and your VIN and they'll be able to help you out specifically.
No, I didn't purchase the part from Europarts, but an answer to my question would be highly appreciated - Saab 95 2001 2t.
After 22 emails, I finally found out that the nut is called an elliptic offset nut, which needs a spanner to screw right in securely. That was from Parts In Motion, who finally asked the manufacturers, which they should have done in the first place.
Great audio ...
I'm a bit confused with the lower control arm rear bushing (in the metal casing) because when i torque it up to spec i.e. 77 ft-lbs, it the control arm cannot pivot within the bushing? Also when you install the lower control arm in its place there is not enough space to fit a torque wrench on it. any feedback would be appreciated.
That's OK. Silentblock is working by its elasticity between inner and upper side. But you need to torque them with the all weight of the car with installed wheel, not how it was shawn in this video.
This video is from before you busted your front lower spoiler hahaha I can see on the other videos it's missing.
Hit a racoon coming back from eEuroFest, it's since been replaced
Hi is it necessary to do the angle measurements or just stick with the torque stick?
That's up to you, but we always recommend using a torque wrench
J
what exactly does two stage star pattern mean. seriously asking
You snug all the bolts in a star pattern so the wheel is firmly situated on the hub, then you torque them to spec in a second step.
+eEuroparts.com oh ok I do that at work but I've never heard that term before. thanks
Cool, thanks!