I like the fact that even though you presented a lot of information, you were direct to the point instead of a commentary for each. It's a good reference video for new printer owners.
Thank you, I did my best. If there's something I hate are all the half an hour videos dragging on about something that could have been explained in 3 minutes.
You're an absolute legend sir. All the people in the comments saying they wish they had this when they first started - well I'm just starting and this is the best thing i could have ever asked for!
Thank you Alexander, it makes me very happy every time I read something like this. Good luck and don't forget to come back if you encounter any issues.
When I purchased my Ender 5, I had no idea there was no heater runaway protection on the machine. I went months before I was able to understand what I needed to do. Seriously I wish I had found this prior to my purchase. Great info!
Thank you Antonio, I really appreciate that. Yeah, it's kinda funny, because the stock Marlin firmware has it enabled by default. So Creality went out of their way to disable it. I'm hearing it's better now and that some printers have it enabled, but it's always better to be 100% sure about these things.
I use the Filler spool holder. It comes with multiple mounting options and is almost frictionless. You will require two ball bearings though. For my Ender 3 I printed an angled side spool mount and used the supplied metal spool holder, but swapped the stock plastic dowel for the Filler spool holder instead. It works very well.
I've tried a lot of spool holders in the past, but I just gave up on them. I use a lot of 2.x kg spools and majority of holders don't work well with them. I've ended up using this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:508896 Not ideal, but best that I've tried so far for large spools. I've never heard about the Filler though, I'll check it though. Just a note on frictionless; that's not always desirable. If you use longer retractions, a frictionless holder can end up tangling your spool.
Just a tip from someone who's coming from astrophotography and this is just me being nit picky because I don't think it'll be a huge problem but something to keep in mind. When cleaning a mirror/glass (mirrors especially) You should start by taking a cotton ball and dabbing it onto the mirror. You wanna do it like that to the whole surface a few times. If you start by just wiping back and forth, and hard particulates on the glass will scratch the surface. Dabbing the cotton ball helps prevents this.
I understand your concern (I'm also an amateur astronomer), but the funny thing is, s scratched mirror is actually better for 3D printing as the roughness helps with adhesion. I actually sanded one of my mirrors that I use for hard-to-print materials. The mirror looks terrible, but everything sticks much better to it.
Absolutely. The only exception is if you have good auto levelling like the one on Prusa. I don't remember when I had to print the squares the last time. I've just bought a fake BLTouch for my CR-10, I'll be making a video about it soon as well.
@@HobbyHoarder Sometimes it sticks so well I have to get aggressive to remove a print. Im not sure why but my leveling doesnt stay put from one week to the next.
It might be the springs. When I first got my CR10, I'd have to re-level it every few days. It seems like the springs "settle" in after a while and now I only have to re-level once every few weeks. It's still kinda annoying, which is why I'll give the BLTouch a try, but that might be the reason with you as well. Or maybe the springs are too loose, there should be at least a moderate amount of tension in them.
It's always a pleasure reading comments like this, thank you. Well, I did upload the video only a few hours ago and I barely have 1k subscribers, so I'm sure that's why :) It's ok though, I don't mind as long as my videos are helping others.
Wow...I should looked at this video first before getting my first 3D printer. You cover lots and lots of good points and where to go and what to do. Thank you very much and AWESOME video.
Hi there. Glazier who has been in the industry for about 10 years now. Clear glass and mirrors are made out of the exact same materials, the only difference is that the mirror has a reflective surface called silvering applied to one side of it. In the video shown, you are still using the glass side.
Yes, you're right, thank you for the comment. When I made the video, I wasn't aware of that yet, but found out later. I personally prefer PEI sheets over glass now, I've had much better results with it.
@@HobbyHoarder I just ordered one of the high temp engineering plates from bamboo labs, I have been using almost exclusively PEI sheets. I have had quite a bit of trouble tuning my P1P with polymax pla filament using the PEI sheet, I keep getting a k-factor of 0.058. That just seems way too high to me. At k-.021 my edges look a lot better but the seams still look like they’re not connecting properly. My theory is the textured pei sheet was screwing me up, but even with a calibration tower I still get .058. Any ideas?
Thank you for putting together this awesome guide. I started a new job and need to get 12 Lulzbots up and running after being dormant for a long time. This will be very helpful. One thing that will probably be frustrating is they have a 1.2mm extruder set up, but put a 0.8mm nozzle. So I will probably have to change a lot of settings.
have my printer a few yrs now already, did know all the tricks of this video, but what a nice package of information! wish i seen this when i started this adventure. would have saved me alot of time on the trip hahaha --> awesome video dude!
Just stating out, bought my first Eryone Thinker SE, followed every direction, and the first test print failed within 2mm, started moving around with the extruder. I'll continue to try, but first I'll study vids like this, Thank for sharing your knowledge. A1 PLUS
That's almost always the case of either a dirty surface or nozzle not being close enough to the bed. Use iso alcohol to clean your bed, or a soapy water. Check out the video I did on bed leveling to see how the first layer should look like.
Hey man, your video is the best! Even tho there are larger and more popular channels you helped me the most! I had spent first two weeks with my Ender 5 and it makes me sad how much calibration I have to do :_( but if I can get it as cool as you it will be totally worth it. Thanks M8.
Hey Vojta, thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it! And I'm very happy to hear the video helped you out. Don't worry, I hate calibrating printers as well, but you only have to do it once, and then maybe repeat bed-leveling every few weeks.
I just stumbled onto your video and found it most enjoyable. I Have been printing a few years but for me its a tool. My model train hobby is my passion so this tool is useful but not my main interest. However to keep it alive I learned you need to stay on top of it. Thank You for a well done video. Is there anything new that you would change or add to the setup process. I have a Chinese CR 10S Pro V1 I was shocked that the sample dog file printed perfectly but everything I loaded was crap. It took quite a while to learn the nuance of CR products and how to best tune it. I changed the bed position sensor, added a mirror bed, dual Z axis drives and updated the firmware once although it is due for a new grade now. I added the MicroSwiss Hot end and stainless nozzle too. So far it has been doing quite well but i only print small train parts, Not full bodies yet. It is S Scale so larger than HO and smaller than O. I appreciate your video efforts and will search your library for more. Dennis in Virginia USA
Thank you, I'm really happy to hear my video helped you out. I had to upgrade/tweak my CR-10 quite a lot as well. That's just the case with Chinese printers I guess. On the plus side, you get to learn a lot of new things and you're much better equipped to do any repairs down the line. Good luck with your printer! Denis from Germany :)
David Parry I sure am, I've released 4 videos since this one. I wish there were more, but life happens and that's the most I could produce. After my vacation, I'm planning on uploading more often, at least once a month. I really appreciate you asking, thank you!
@@HobbyHoarder oh yah. dang life always finds away to get in the way of things. >_< Glad to hear it! And thanks again for you're amazing stuff. It's really good. You'll be at 100k in no time
That was a very informative video thanks! But what did you mean that we should not try changing the nozzle on cold hot end? Dealing with hot end will be too difficult because of the temperature.
Every manufacturer recommends that you tighten the nozzle only when it's at the maximum temperature. This is to compensate for thermal expansion. Of course, you have to use pliers or something similar to hold the hotend while you tighten the nozzle.
That's a good question that gets asked a lot; mirrors are produced within better tolerances than glass, since any imperfection would be much more obvious than if you're simply looking through a window. So while technically it's the same material, the surface of a mirror is much smoother than of a typical glass.
Greetings; I have a couple questions for you. What are your thoughts on: Dual z stepper motors? Linear rails for X, Y, and/or Z? using kits like EnderExtender to increase print volume? Awesome channel, keep it up
I have dual Z motors on my CR-10S (and Prusa of course). If you can afford them, there shouldn't be any downside to them. I did hear that in some cases, they can get out of sync, but if you stick to full stop layer heights (0.12, 0.2, 0.28) you should be able to avoid that. I've never had any issues myself. Linear rails are better of course, but much more expensive. Cheap linear rails, however, are usually worse, so unless you're buying high quality ones, you shouldn't bother. MGN9 series seem to be quite good, I'll be using them in my upcoming build. You won't gain much by using rails for Z, but if you plan on converting it anyway, you might as well do Z. I've never heard about EnderExtender before, so I can't really tell you much about it, sorry. Hope that helps!
@@HobbyHoarder Yes, it was quite helpful. I so broke duct tape can't fix me, so I would have gotten cheap rails. I'll wait until I can get good ones. As far as the motor, what if you splice them together? I'm unfamiliar with your full stop layer heights comment. Do you mean the settings like "Dynamic" Standard" and such? In other words, don't set your own, such as ".3, .01". Also, as far as the enderextender, the premise is to increase the volume of the printer. Ultimately, you swap out frame parts, and bed parts, to have larger build area.
@@NOC-H Sure, you can just splice them together. This is actually what you have to do if you buy Z-kit from Creality. Yes, I was talking about layer heights, the ones I've mentioned work best if you have two Z motors and they're close enough to the default values that you won't notice any difference. I usually print 99% of stuff at 0,2mm.
I just received a CR-10S Pro for my birthday. I know its Chinese, but since it’s one of the “higher end” Creality/hobbiest printers, do I still need to replace the MOSFET?
Congratulations, I'm sure you'll fall in love with it. No, the CR10 doesn't need a new MOSFET, so you're good to go. Sadly, TH3D is still working on their firmware update for the 10S Pro. I suggest you check their page every few weeks and update when it's available. And be sure to come back if you have any issues, I'd be happy to help. Good luck!
@@HobbyHoarder When you measure something out to be a certain size and then when you print it it comes out a little smaller than you measured. I saying for parts that need to be an exact width height. The plastic shrinks as it cools and this can cause it not to be exactly as your measured
@@thatguyfromca Ah ok. Yeah, that can happen, especially with ABS or nylon. Here, check out this link for a simple tool that lets you measure and calibrate the scale, it's very accurate: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1982686
There's no point in calibrating other steppers unless you're building a printer yourself. They are always homed before the printing starts, so there's no fear or them being "miss-aligned". That's not the case with the extruder. In any case, we're only talking about a few percent difference, so doing extruder calibration isn't critical, but it doesn't hurt either.
I know this is an old video, but should flow rate be calibrated just once for all filaments or for each filament? Do I calibrate flow rate first, then temperature tower or temperature tower first then flow rate?
Yeah, getting a bit old, but most things in it are still relevant. I only calibrate the flowrate once and use that value for any fillament. If you want to take it a step further, you can measure the diameter of every spool using a micrometer. You can then enter that value in the slicer to account for slight differences between different spools. I personally don't bother with this, but some people swear by it. Do flowrate first and then start playing around with temp. towers. Although to be honest - I've been printing for years and currently own 12 printers and I've never done a temp. tower test. Default values (PLA 215, ABS 245'C etc.) seem to work just fine no matter which printer I'm using. I think temperature towers only come into play with low-quality fillaments.
@@HobbyHoarder Awesome! Thank you! Now when I do the flow calibration, I was doing it for each type of filament and then putting that flow % into cura under the material profile. If I just do a flow calibration and use 1 flow %, do you change that on your printer itself and store the setting somehow or do you change it in your slicer?
Most cheap printers sold today can produce quite good prints, it just takes some tinkering and upgrading some of the parts (especially the part cooling fan). Try looking into that for your specific printer, you might be surprised at what it can do.
@@Foo_rina Ender 3 has the potential to print really good. Sadly, their quality control is non-existant, so it depends on your luck. Definitely replace the part cooling fan - look into Petsfang, it's a great mod.
It's a chicken-and-egg problem. If you level the bed first, then you'll have to re-level it every time you change the flowrate (after printing the calibration squares). That's why I've decided to print the squares first, as even a non-perfectly leveled bed is good enough. After you get the flowrate dialed-in, you can then level the bed just once.
I found this video and started following most of them. I updated to marlin, using the link. However, my printer is now doing something new. I've printed about a kg worth of pla over the last week. Today, after the update of firmware, it decided to randomly pause during print. like it just stops for a second or two and then continues on. Its done it several times in this same print. What did I do wrong? All i changed on the marlin was display stuff.
That's hard to say. Do you see anything on the LCD screen? Did you perform PID tuning? If not, maybe the temperature drops so suddenly that it waits a second or two for it to get back up.
@@NOC-H Ah, ok. Although even using older Marlin shouldn't cause random pauses. Once you update, don't forget about the PID that I've mentioned, it makes a big difference for temperature stability and you can even run it directly from the menu.
Hobby Hoarder thanks. It’s that the version I have seems to be missing many MANY settings. For example, there’s only one line that regards mesh leveling; and that’s just enable. I’d like to ask another Q. What interface do you use? I’m using cura slicer. But have to find some software that lets me play with the printer settings.
@@NOC-H Yeah, there should definitely be more settings for auto leveling. I'm using multiple slicers, depending on printer. For Prusa, I use either Simplify3D or PrusaSlicer. For CR-10S, I use Cura. You can actually enable Expert settings in Cura and then you'll be presented with about 200 different settings, more than any other slicers that I can think of. So Cura is definitely for you if you want lots of settings :D
Search for "ender leveling knob" on Thingiverse and you should find some. You'll probably have to try a few different ones, because Creality and similar companies often change some parts within the same series.
Not at all, it just takes time to learn all this stuff. The thing with wanting to grab a hammer in the video is how I felt the first few months with a printer, it was really frustrating. Keep trying and you can do anything.
Like I said, it's impossible to cover every printer in one video, but I feel most of the things can be applied. Every printer needs tight belts, updated firmware, leveled bed, calibrated extruder and flowrate... The only things that was kinda specific to CR10 was the filament guide.
![Eminem - Somebody Save Me (feat. Jelly Roll) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Vwa0HenQMi4/mqdefault.jpg)
I like the fact that even though you presented a lot of information, you were direct to the point instead of a commentary for each. It's a good reference video for new printer owners.
Thank you, I did my best. If there's something I hate are all the half an hour videos dragging on about something that could have been explained in 3 minutes.
This is BY FAR the best all-in-one for beginners video I’ve watched. Thank you so much for making this. Liked, commented, and subbed! 10/10
Thank you and I really appreciate you subscribing as well!
You're an absolute legend sir. All the people in the comments saying they wish they had this when they first started - well I'm just starting and this is the best thing i could have ever asked for!
Thank you Alexander, it makes me very happy every time I read something like this. Good luck and don't forget to come back if you encounter any issues.
When I purchased my Ender 5, I had no idea there was no heater runaway protection on the machine. I went months before I was able to understand what I needed to do. Seriously I wish I had found this prior to my purchase. Great info!
Thank you Antonio, I really appreciate that.
Yeah, it's kinda funny, because the stock Marlin firmware has it enabled by default. So Creality went out of their way to disable it. I'm hearing it's better now and that some printers have it enabled, but it's always better to be 100% sure about these things.
one of those videos you have to watch 50 times! so much information Awesome, thank you
I'm printing for years now, but seem's I've still to learn. Thank you for this clear and complete video!
Thank you, I did my best and I'm happy to hear you liked it.
I use the Filler spool holder. It comes with multiple mounting options and is almost frictionless. You will require two ball bearings though. For my Ender 3 I printed an angled side spool mount and used the supplied metal spool holder, but swapped the stock plastic dowel for the Filler spool holder instead. It works very well.
I've tried a lot of spool holders in the past, but I just gave up on them. I use a lot of 2.x kg spools and majority of holders don't work well with them. I've ended up using this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:508896
Not ideal, but best that I've tried so far for large spools. I've never heard about the Filler though, I'll check it though.
Just a note on frictionless; that's not always desirable. If you use longer retractions, a frictionless holder can end up tangling your spool.
Just a tip from someone who's coming from astrophotography and this is just me being nit picky because I don't think it'll be a huge problem but something to keep in mind.
When cleaning a mirror/glass (mirrors especially)
You should start by taking a cotton ball and dabbing it onto the mirror. You wanna do it like that to the whole surface a few times. If you start by just wiping back and forth, and hard particulates on the glass will scratch the surface. Dabbing the cotton ball helps prevents this.
But like I said, this probably doesn't matter nearly as much for 3d printing versus astronomy so.
I understand your concern (I'm also an amateur astronomer), but the funny thing is, s scratched mirror is actually better for 3D printing as the roughness helps with adhesion.
I actually sanded one of my mirrors that I use for hard-to-print materials. The mirror looks terrible, but everything sticks much better to it.
I use the calibration squares often and before every long print. Lifesaver!
Absolutely. The only exception is if you have good auto levelling like the one on Prusa. I don't remember when I had to print the squares the last time. I've just bought a fake BLTouch for my CR-10, I'll be making a video about it soon as well.
@@HobbyHoarder Sometimes it sticks so well I have to get aggressive to remove a print. Im not sure why but my leveling doesnt stay put from one week to the next.
It might be the springs. When I first got my CR10, I'd have to re-level it every few days. It seems like the springs "settle" in after a while and now I only have to re-level once every few weeks. It's still kinda annoying, which is why I'll give the BLTouch a try, but that might be the reason with you as well. Or maybe the springs are too loose, there should be at least a moderate amount of tension in them.
3:33 That's exactly like I did it. You made my day and gave me useful beginners tips. Thank you pal.
Happy to hear that :)
This video is AWESOME! You helped me a lot, thank you! It's weird how small the amount of views are... Keep up the great work!
It's always a pleasure reading comments like this, thank you. Well, I did upload the video only a few hours ago and I barely have 1k subscribers, so I'm sure that's why :) It's ok though, I don't mind as long as my videos are helping others.
Wow...I should looked at this video first before getting my first 3D printer.
You cover lots and lots of good points and where to go and what to do.
Thank you very much and AWESOME video.
Thank you, I'm happy to hear that and I hope it will save you from troubles in the future.
What a great video with so much information packed in. Thank you for taking the time to make this! I will be watching this more than a few times.
I'm very happy to hear that, thank you :)
Hi there. Glazier who has been in the industry for about 10 years now.
Clear glass and mirrors are made out of the exact same materials, the only difference is that the mirror has a reflective surface called silvering applied to one side of it. In the video shown, you are still using the glass side.
Yes, you're right, thank you for the comment. When I made the video, I wasn't aware of that yet, but found out later.
I personally prefer PEI sheets over glass now, I've had much better results with it.
@@HobbyHoarder I just ordered one of the high temp engineering plates from bamboo labs, I have been using almost exclusively PEI sheets.
I have had quite a bit of trouble tuning my P1P with polymax pla filament using the PEI sheet, I keep getting a k-factor of 0.058. That just seems way too high to me. At k-.021 my edges look a lot better but the seams still look like they’re not connecting properly.
My theory is the textured pei sheet was screwing me up, but even with a calibration tower I still get .058.
Any ideas?
This is the best video I have seen on this subject so far thanks heaps
Thank you, I really appreciate you saying that.
WOW! What an incredibly concise and thorough video. Thanks so much!
Thank you, doing my best :)
Thank you for putting together this awesome guide. I started a new job and need to get 12 Lulzbots up and running after being dormant for a long time. This will be very helpful.
One thing that will probably be frustrating is they have a 1.2mm extruder set up, but put a 0.8mm nozzle. So I will probably have to change a lot of settings.
Check out 3doptimizer.com.
It will help you quickly get to settings that should be ok in most cases.
have my printer a few yrs now already, did know all the tricks of this video, but what a nice package of information! wish i seen this when i started this adventure. would have saved me alot of time on the trip hahaha --> awesome video dude!
Thank you Tommy, that's very encouraging to hear!
Everything I wanted to know in one video. Great job
The personal protection equipment earned the video a like before I even finished watching.
Hehe, thank you! Although I really regret not wearing earmuffs as well :D
Same here!
Excellent video. The best I have seen on the subject.
Thank you David, that means a lot.
Thank you very much for pointing the interesting and essential information for a newcomer !
Just stating out, bought my first Eryone Thinker SE, followed every direction, and the first test print failed within 2mm, started moving around with the extruder. I'll continue to try, but first I'll study vids like this, Thank for sharing your knowledge. A1 PLUS
That's almost always the case of either a dirty surface or nozzle not being close enough to the bed.
Use iso alcohol to clean your bed, or a soapy water. Check out the video I did on bed leveling to see how the first layer should look like.
I only now found this video. I wish I'd seen it when I started a short 10 weeks ago.
But, I'm still learning and this is great.
Thank you and I hope it helps you prevent some of the common issues.
I wish I could give 2 thumbs up for the way you turned it on.
Hehe, you never know with cheap printers :)
Thank you very much from FRANCE ! Best channel ever, non only for 3D printing... 😁
Thank you Maxence for your awesome support, you're always among the first to comment :) I'm living in Germany now, so we're kinda neighbours :D
@@HobbyHoarder Yeah, kind of 😂
Thank you so much for this video, Hobby!
Great video. Very thorough and many things I've not seen. Thanks for the effort!
Thank you Matthew, really appreciated!
Great video!
Amazing video. Thanks from Brazil
Hey man, your video is the best! Even tho there are larger and more popular channels you helped me the most! I had spent first two weeks with my Ender 5 and it makes me sad how much calibration I have to do :_( but if I can get it as cool as you it will be totally worth it. Thanks M8.
Hey Vojta, thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it! And I'm very happy to hear the video helped you out.
Don't worry, I hate calibrating printers as well, but you only have to do it once, and then maybe repeat bed-leveling every few weeks.
amazing! increased the quality of my 1 year old anycubic mega s. 10/10
That's wonderful to hear, good job!
Awesome video, very useful for beginners!
Thank you Calvin, I'm very happy to hear that.
the video is very helpful thank you for this video.
Glad to hear that!
Very Informative and helpfull video... Well Done ;]
Thank you, glad you liked it :)
Love the sign in your toolbox! LOL
Thanks for some great tips! Cheers
great guide thx!!
Thank you, I really appreciate it!
This is awesome. Thank you.
I agree. Movie is cut only with useful information and tips
For me mofset was new
So I was able to learn something
Please make more movies
Thank you, I'll do my best to post more videos :)
I just stumbled onto your video and found it most enjoyable. I Have been printing a few years but for me its a tool. My model train hobby is my passion so this tool is useful but not my main interest. However to keep it alive I learned you need to stay on top of it. Thank You for a well done video. Is there anything new that you would change or add to the setup process. I have a Chinese CR 10S Pro V1 I was shocked that the sample dog file printed perfectly but everything I loaded was crap. It took quite a while to learn the nuance of CR products and how to best tune it. I changed the bed position sensor, added a mirror bed, dual Z axis drives and updated the firmware once although it is due for a new grade now. I added the MicroSwiss Hot end and stainless nozzle too. So far it has been doing quite well but i only print small train parts, Not full bodies yet. It is S Scale so larger than HO and smaller than O. I appreciate your video efforts and will search your library for more. Dennis in Virginia USA
Thank you, I'm really happy to hear my video helped you out.
I had to upgrade/tweak my CR-10 quite a lot as well. That's just the case with Chinese printers I guess. On the plus side, you get to learn a lot of new things and you're much better equipped to do any repairs down the line.
Good luck with your printer! Denis from Germany :)
you stilll around? I was so excited for your content. It's fantastic. Just wondering if you still plan on putting stuff out anymore
David Parry I sure am, I've released 4 videos since this one. I wish there were more, but life happens and that's the most I could produce. After my vacation, I'm planning on uploading more often, at least once a month.
I really appreciate you asking, thank you!
@@HobbyHoarder oh yah. dang life always finds away to get in the way of things. >_<
Glad to hear it! And thanks again for you're amazing stuff. It's really good. You'll be at 100k in no time
You sir... Have my Sub! great videos going through them all
Thank you Sean, that's very kind of you and I really appreciate that you've decided to subscribe.
incredible good videos.. thank you for those!!!!
My pleasure!
That was a very informative video thanks! But what did you mean that we should not try changing the nozzle on cold hot end? Dealing with hot end will be too difficult because of the temperature.
Every manufacturer recommends that you tighten the nozzle only when it's at the maximum temperature. This is to compensate for thermal expansion.
Of course, you have to use pliers or something similar to hold the hotend while you tighten the nozzle.
Thanks, vídeo fun and very useful!!
This video is amazing!! Thank you to share it!
Thank you, it really means a lot to hear that.
good tips for beginners, wish I had this advice a few years ago - I would most likely still have hair lol - subbed
Go get some hair tonic dude
Thanks. Nice video.
STL filament guide ?? Thanks ! Great Video !
Thank you! Check the video description, there's a link there for the filament guide (and all the other models that I've used).
Thank god for this video you really save me from alot of hassel dont know why this video only has 52k views
Thank you, always happy to help :)
As for the views, my channel is tiny and it's hard to get promoted with so many other ones out there.
I can’t help every printer ... “ok:(“ ... *the next scene* “OMG we have the same printer”
Hehe, happy to hear, I hope the video helped you out :)
My God, I have the Sovol SV06 and the marlin menu looks exactly the same lol
Curious why a mirror would work better than glass? Since a mirror is glass with a reflective coating on the back. Hmmm?
That's a good question that gets asked a lot; mirrors are produced within better tolerances than glass, since any imperfection would be much more obvious than if you're simply looking through a window. So while technically it's the same material, the surface of a mirror is much smoother than of a typical glass.
Greetings; I have a couple questions for you.
What are your thoughts on:
Dual z stepper motors?
Linear rails for X, Y, and/or Z?
using kits like EnderExtender to increase print volume?
Awesome channel, keep it up
I have dual Z motors on my CR-10S (and Prusa of course). If you can afford them, there shouldn't be any downside to them. I did hear that in some cases, they can get out of sync, but if you stick to full stop layer heights (0.12, 0.2, 0.28) you should be able to avoid that. I've never had any issues myself.
Linear rails are better of course, but much more expensive. Cheap linear rails, however, are usually worse, so unless you're buying high quality ones, you shouldn't bother. MGN9 series seem to be quite good, I'll be using them in my upcoming build. You won't gain much by using rails for Z, but if you plan on converting it anyway, you might as well do Z.
I've never heard about EnderExtender before, so I can't really tell you much about it, sorry.
Hope that helps!
@@HobbyHoarder Yes, it was quite helpful. I so broke duct tape can't fix me, so I would have gotten cheap rails. I'll wait until I can get good ones. As far as the motor, what if you splice them together? I'm unfamiliar with your full stop layer heights comment. Do you mean the settings like "Dynamic" Standard" and such? In other words, don't set your own, such as ".3, .01". Also, as far as the enderextender, the premise is to increase the volume of the printer. Ultimately, you swap out frame parts, and bed parts, to have larger build area.
@@NOC-H Sure, you can just splice them together. This is actually what you have to do if you buy Z-kit from Creality.
Yes, I was talking about layer heights, the ones I've mentioned work best if you have two Z motors and they're close enough to the default values that you won't notice any difference. I usually print 99% of stuff at 0,2mm.
Hobby Hoarder cool. Hey, do you have a discord?
@@NOC-H I do, although I rarely use it. I even have a server (invite code bnxvE9q) but it's more or less empty.
Problem with simplify's guide on problems is that they name solutions with settings that cura doesn't have.
That's true, but most settings should still be there, even if they're named diferently.
This saved my printer for many hammer blows.
I'm sure your printer is very grateful for that :)
I just received a CR-10S Pro for my birthday. I know its Chinese, but since it’s one of the “higher end” Creality/hobbiest printers, do I still need to replace the MOSFET?
Congratulations, I'm sure you'll fall in love with it. No, the CR10 doesn't need a new MOSFET, so you're good to go. Sadly, TH3D is still working on their firmware update for the 10S Pro. I suggest you check their page every few weeks and update when it's available.
And be sure to come back if you have any issues, I'd be happy to help. Good luck!
What about filament shrinkage ? On prints you need to be exact sizes. How do you adjust for this?
What exactly do you mean by filament shrinkage? I've never heard that term before.
@@HobbyHoarder When you measure something out to be a certain size and then when you print it it comes out a little smaller than you measured. I saying for parts that need to be an exact width height. The plastic shrinks as it cools and this can cause it not to be exactly as your measured
@@thatguyfromca Ah ok. Yeah, that can happen, especially with ABS or nylon.
Here, check out this link for a simple tool that lets you measure and calibrate the scale, it's very accurate: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1982686
So why do you calibrate the Extruder and leave out the X, Y and Z Steppers
There's no point in calibrating other steppers unless you're building a printer yourself. They are always homed before the printing starts, so there's no fear or them being "miss-aligned". That's not the case with the extruder.
In any case, we're only talking about a few percent difference, so doing extruder calibration isn't critical, but it doesn't hurt either.
I know this is an old video, but should flow rate be calibrated just once for all filaments or for each filament? Do I calibrate flow rate first, then temperature tower or temperature tower first then flow rate?
Yeah, getting a bit old, but most things in it are still relevant.
I only calibrate the flowrate once and use that value for any fillament. If you want to take it a step further, you can measure the diameter of every spool using a micrometer. You can then enter that value in the slicer to account for slight differences between different spools. I personally don't bother with this, but some people swear by it.
Do flowrate first and then start playing around with temp. towers. Although to be honest - I've been printing for years and currently own 12 printers and I've never done a temp. tower test. Default values (PLA 215, ABS 245'C etc.) seem to work just fine no matter which printer I'm using. I think temperature towers only come into play with low-quality fillaments.
@@HobbyHoarder Awesome! Thank you! Now when I do the flow calibration, I was doing it for each type of filament and then putting that flow % into cura under the material profile. If I just do a flow calibration and use 1 flow %, do you change that on your printer itself and store the setting somehow or do you change it in your slicer?
@@sirbeck58 I've changed the flowrate in my slicer. If you'll do it on your printer, then it can get overwritten with a firmware update.
even this this printer is better then mine
Most cheap printers sold today can produce quite good prints, it just takes some tinkering and upgrading some of the parts (especially the part cooling fan).
Try looking into that for your specific printer, you might be surprised at what it can do.
Hobby Hoarder ok thx for the help I got ender 3 and it isn’t really working well
@@Foo_rina Ender 3 has the potential to print really good. Sadly, their quality control is non-existant, so it depends on your luck.
Definitely replace the part cooling fan - look into Petsfang, it's a great mod.
Hobby Hoarder thx for your help 😊 I will definitely check it out!
How are you not viral lol
arent mirrors just glass with a silver sulfite back layer?
Yes, technically. However, mirrors are produced to a much higher (smoother) standard, which is why they work so better for adhesion.
I'm using paperglue stick with my glass bed to increase adhesion. It works perfect and it's super easy to clean with wet cloth.
How the heck are you going to print calibration squares if the bed is very unlevel to begin with??
It's a chicken-and-egg problem. If you level the bed first, then you'll have to re-level it every time you change the flowrate (after printing the calibration squares). That's why I've decided to print the squares first, as even a non-perfectly leveled bed is good enough. After you get the flowrate dialed-in, you can then level the bed just once.
I found this video and started following most of them. I updated to marlin, using the link. However, my printer is now doing something new. I've printed about a kg worth of pla over the last week. Today, after the update of firmware, it decided to randomly pause during print. like it just stops for a second or two and then continues on. Its done it several times in this same print. What did I do wrong? All i changed on the marlin was display stuff.
That's hard to say. Do you see anything on the LCD screen? Did you perform PID tuning? If not, maybe the temperature drops so suddenly that it waits a second or two for it to get back up.
Hobby Hoarder well, I found out I was using an older marlin. Th3d didn’t update their link. So I’m in process of getting 2.0.
@@NOC-H Ah, ok. Although even using older Marlin shouldn't cause random pauses.
Once you update, don't forget about the PID that I've mentioned, it makes a big difference for temperature stability and you can even run it directly from the menu.
Hobby Hoarder thanks. It’s that the version I have seems to be missing many MANY settings. For example, there’s only one line that regards mesh leveling; and that’s just enable. I’d like to ask another Q. What interface do you use? I’m using cura slicer. But have to find some software that lets me play with the printer settings.
@@NOC-H Yeah, there should definitely be more settings for auto leveling.
I'm using multiple slicers, depending on printer. For Prusa, I use either Simplify3D or PrusaSlicer. For CR-10S, I use Cura.
You can actually enable Expert settings in Cura and then you'll be presented with about 200 different settings, more than any other slicers that I can think of. So Cura is definitely for you if you want lots of settings :D
6:35 Anyone going to tell this guy that mirrors are also glass? LOL
Oh no, how could I have missed that?
Apparently mirrors have a coating on them which allows the print to sick better.
I'm looking fo that knob attachment for my Ender 5. Where did you get that one at 10:36? Thanks
Search for "ender leveling knob" on Thingiverse and you should find some.
You'll probably have to try a few different ones, because Creality and similar companies often change some parts within the same series.
@@HobbyHoarder Oops. Sorry not the leveling knob the one on the control box. I have solid bed mounts due to thr ABL auto leveling sensor.
@@ChinaAl Ah, that was done by CNC Kitchen: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2751178
@@HobbyHoarder Oh great! Thank you very much
I wish I was as good as a square
I'm sure you're even better :)
I’m too dumb for this stuff😂😭
Not at all, it just takes time to learn all this stuff. The thing with wanting to grab a hammer in the video is how I felt the first few months with a printer, it was really frustrating. Keep trying and you can do anything.
This so stressful 😣😣
Most of these things you talk about only apply to that printer
Like I said, it's impossible to cover every printer in one video, but I feel most of the things can be applied. Every printer needs tight belts, updated firmware, leveled bed, calibrated extruder and flowrate... The only things that was kinda specific to CR10 was the filament guide.
If quality is a joke for chinese product why are you showing us a creality printer lol flawless generalisation.
I said quality control is a joke, in the sense that you can buy two identical printers and one will work while the other will have tons of issues.
Are there any parts that are not made in china? You already know the answer so you might tone down the anti china rhetoric.