Gear Vendors Overdrive Install - 80 F-350 Service Truck
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- I made a difficult decision. We got a Gear Vendors overdrive unit for the service truck! With all the labor I got into this thing I wanted to have an overdrive unit on the automatic C6 transmission. I really don't' want my 460 wearing out anytime soon, and since it has plenty of low end torque I thought this would be a proper upgrade. My channel is for entertainment purposes only. Please don't repeat my shenanigans however epic they may be. Enjoy
Good video as always. Had the Swede pegged as a dog person. A guard cat with an astronaut as best friend? As for the overdrive concept for non-mechanics like myself, I'd always assumed they were kind of like a 4th gear. From your responses in the comments, overdrives sound more like a split rear end used in heavy trucks that give them a high/low range for each gear. Finally, looking forward to hearing the New Yorker purr like a kitten (or maybe a guard cat)!
I am indeed a dog person myself. Humans best friend. Cats are stuck up snobs with nasty attitudes ha ha. Some of them are ok by me. Regarding the overdrive unit yes in automatic mode it only adds a 4th gear which is overdrive. In manual mode you can overdrive each gear, so if I said split that was an incorrect term, and apologies for that. Split rear ends in heavy trucks will be appearing here someday……😁. Chrysler tune up is complete but ran into another small problem which will be revealed in the next episode in a week or two. Cheers man👍🏼
So nice to finally see a how to video without a whole bunch of cussing in it great video very helpful it will be different for me when my uni gets here it’s going on my ZF6 6spd F-350 7.3 ltr make a 12 spd out of it for my hot shot truck
you showed the viewers how to install that overdrive without all the flashy bullshit that other channels spews. Im saving your video to guide me through my installation on my 1968 Road Runner. And I thank you Sir.
Thank you. I regret not showing installing it into the veichle and doing measurements to chop the driveline up, but glad this video still proves useful to you! Bless😊👍🏼
Hi Chris! Well, I have been preoccupied all week, so I was looking forward to watching some videos and relaxing a bit. Guess who was on the agenda? Another good one!
Another great video. Keep them coming. I thought the kitty litter on the floor was for spills, didn't realize you had a guard cat haha.
The cat litter is for happy little accidents? 😂
Great video my friend,really nicely explain
I have a 1989 F350 dually with the 7.3 IDI and a C-6 behind it. It has 19.5 wheels and RV tires (small big rig lookin ALCOA wheels/tires).
It had 4.11 rear gears that I had someone swap 3.73 gears into it truing to lower the RPM and get better MPG. This truck is still screaming 3000 RPM at 70 MPH. Before the rear gear swap, it was turning 3500 RPM at 70 MPH.
Here in Atlanta, most all my miles are 65 MPH or higher. I really want the RPM's down to around 2000 to 2200 at 65 MPG. I called GV. They said I would only get about a 500 RPM drop. I'm not sure 500 RPM can justify the $3,500 overdrive. It will save wear and tear on the engine and my nerves but, I just don't know. I'm getting a lot of money put into this truck....$22,000. It looks great and has won Top Five at a car show. IDK.
Thanks for posting the video. I heard it was an easy swap. You made it look really easy. I imagine I could leave the transmission in the truck. That helps me decide...almost.
Edit: This truck has two drive shafts. Shortening the front drive shaft 12" to 18" will make it only about 30" long. Could that present a problem being so short?
To answer your question no so long as were talking about the two piece rear driveshaft only. Per GearVendors manual: “ if the original front driveshaft is 26 inches or greater from either of transmission, yoke to center of carrier, bearing your modify the shaft in most cases for the installation. If the original front driveshaft is 26 inches or less from the eye of transmission yolk to center of carrier bearing then there is likely a preferred solution just to shortening the front driveshaft i.e. new one piece shaft if it is less than 59 inches total length or make a carrier bearing plate to relocate and take some length from the rear shaft or both shafts. As a general rule, no section of finished driveline should be less than 12 inches in length measured Eye 2 Eye of yolks, or from center of Yoke to center of carrier bearing.” Gear vendors, encourages you to call factory for any questions as they have recorded details of virtually all applications. I do encourage you to call them up and ask for specifics.
Love those IDI’s! Your sound like a real looker. Definitely need to get those RPMS down. I had an IDI that did 2500 RPM at 55mph, and that was too much RPM for me. 2,000 to 2,200 RPM would be a great target. Bigger tires would help coupled with an Overdrive unit. They did make a 3.55 ratio option around those years so you could re-gear it again. I know your speedomete is going to be off, but Gear vendors, I believe, fixes that when you order there product. You tell them your setup, what gear ratio you have, and they program it to your custom setup. Again, give them a call for specifics. The only snag I really found was my speedometer cable. My bullnose has the push on type that came in Fords 1969 and up. The cable sensor pass-thru on the GearVendor side was a 7/8 threaded nut style that came on General Motors. My solution was I bought a custom made speedometer cable off of eBay that had the Ford push in style speedometer gauge cable hook up on one side, and the other side had the General Motors 7/8 threaded nut hookup. A bit of a snag by the fairly easy solution. Hope this helps👍🏼
I just bought a new-old-stock one of these (tagged as "Laycock P Type" but in ancient Gear Vendors boxes) with a new-old-stock C6 tailpiece. It's missing the yoke, wiring/controller, and the speedometer gear but it does have the disc bushings and the coupler. One can make a wiring harness easily that can do most things the original controller could but you do have to turn it on/off manually more than "auto mode" with the controller. But considering I got a never used unit with the coupler and tailpiece for $1500 (less than half of brand new) I can't complain.
Oh nice! Yup no controller technically needed you just need to toggle the solenoid on and off with voltage. Gears vendors does say that you wanna take it out of overdrive I believe under 15 miles an hour to prevent damage to the unit. Fantastic to hear and congrats boss💪🏼🤘🏼
@@SwedeMachine And also have a NC relay that cuts it off if you put it into reverse, because backing with it on will tear it up. I'm going to wire up two LEDs for it: green for on, red for disabled due to being in reverse while the toggle switch is on. The red will light up as a visual cue to show if the NC relay is working properly. It's a cheap failsafe in case it's left turned on when put into reverse.
Ok you got that figured. Excellent
@@SwedeMachine I ended up ordering the controller kit from GV for $425. That's all wiring/switches, the controller itself, and the speed sensor. I expected it to cost much more. Small price to pay for it not to get torn up because I forget to turn it off under 25mph or something.
@@cubey
Did you buy the wiring from gearvendors?
Also, are you happy with the gear vendors? Let me know. Thanks
Ive got a 86 f250 4x4 supercab 6.9 idi diesel with c6 would one of these work with my transfercase?? I see yours is 2wd..
Yup. You would order the transfer case extension flavor I believe: www.gearvendors.com/4x4.html
😎🏴☠️
I did a C6 with gearvendors conversion on my dads 64 galaxie. Trying to get that thing installed with a harbor freight scissor trans jack by myself was a chore....LOL the gearvendors does reduce the engine RPM quite a bit.
Yeah installing it on a car I’m sure is a bit more of a chore! I think it should knock the rpm’s down by 400 I think. I decided if I’m going to do it, now is the time when transmissions out😉
@@SwedeMachine Yeah, barely fits under that car. It does reduce the rpm about 400 or so RPM.
Good video again=Bra video igen...Need to learn you a bit of Swedish 🤣 😄
I do need to learn my Swedish. It would make my family happy. Bless!
@@SwedeMachine
More lubrication is always more better. So is this a selectable overdrive with a switch on the shifter?
Correct. Well the switch is anywhere you wanna bolt it up to. I’ll probably put mine either on the steering column or somewhere on the dash panel just below the gauges. You can have this overdrive unit operating in an automatic condition so it automatically shifts in overdrive(comes with an electronic speed sensor that drives off the mechanical cable which intern goes to the little computer black box) or you can manually shift it in and out of overdrive in any gear(with the same electric switch)effectively overdriving each of the original 3 gears and getting six gears if you are really pulling it hard😉
I have to apologize to you. When you pished the bushing out of the housing, I thought you were trying to mount it and I said out loud "Turn it around, Dummy". I guess I was the dummy and figured I owed you an apology.
How did this unit end up working out for you? Thinking about getting one for my 74 F250. The engine is screaming at modern highway speeds. Thanks!
Haven’t been able to test it yet. Truck still needs a brake job and fuel tanks need an overhaul. I’m sure it will be awesome. I have a 4.10 rear end so at 60 mph I think the engine would be turning at 2,600rpm. My tires are 235/85/R16. The Overdrive should knock that down to 2,200 at the same speed. So about 500 rpm slower. I’ll make a test drive video with the service truck and report back. I’m sure you would be fine with it. Cheers boss👍🏼
I have a 1999 F-550 7.3l Powerstroke, its got 4.88 gears, ZF6 with 4x4, and at highway speeds its doing like 3k rpm, I'd re-gear it to 3.70 but they don't make gears for the spicer G175-T axle that small and matching it up to the Dana in the front will be hard since they only come in 3.73, do you think this is a worthwhile solution to get the rpm's down when cruising at highway speed, or should I just look at fabricating it to a different transmission or maybe even a Spicer 4 speed auxiliary from a semi? I'd have to avoid 4x4 in certain gears though for sure. I plan on doing hotshot work with it hauling bigger loads as this truck was made to haul.
You know I'm going to suggest another option to consider. Just consider it as I do not know what your budget it. Instead of swapping gears, axles, transmissions etc. have you though about getting a medium sized truck that is more suitable for hotshot work? Especially since you mentioned hauling bigger loads. By medium duty I mean around the lines of a Freightliner FL60, International 4700, S1900? Around those lines. You may not need a tandem drive, a single screw might work fine for you. Just consider it. They have bigger engines, and batter factory gearing to handle bigger loads. Plus they are still all over the place. If I was in your position I would to plenty of research into getting a better tool for your toolbox. Save the pain of cobbling up gears together. Unless you like that doing that, no shade here haha. Maybe its time for a different tool for the job?
@SwedeMachine Problem is theyre not 4x4, and the other need i have for this truck is for plowing out my 4 mile long driveway from 6 feet of snow. Ive given up on the hotshot idea, not paying 37k for insurance since i wanted to do it part time. Besides, i wouldnt be caught dead in a freightliner! Peterbilt 359 if im gonna buy a big truck. I ended up finding a regear set used for the dana 135 thats actually in this truck, so thats on the agenda now lol
Ah I see. Yeah if you need a 4X4 solution, I didn't readily have a solution for ya. Looks like you found one! Excellent. Yeah I have been there myself. Either waiting for a donor vehicle to pop up, or lucking out and finding a matching set. Congrats! I love the old trucks myself. Although my first commercial driving job was in freight-shakers so I can't knock them too much. I think it was a 77 Freightliner Cabover we used on the farm. Then it was 90's day cab freightliners. I wish we could go back. Those Detroit 60 Series and 3406 Kitty Cats were the best. Never really had a problem with them. But now I'm sounding like a boomer haha! Yeah cargo insurance is stupid. I don't blame ya. Thanks for checking in and letting us know you got it sorted. Now its swap time yes! =)
@@SwedeMachine Yes! maybe, suppose I dont NEED 3.73 gears if I'm not gonna do highway work now, but even still it would be nice to tow a camper and toys long haul, so when I get around to it is the answer now lol. Last Freightshaker I drove was on the ice roads north of yellowknife, to the diamond mines, just last winter. it was a 96, so 1 year older than me! an it was the worst hunk of junk, the heater didnt work and its -50 up there everyday, and the cab was so twisted it let all the air right through the door jamb, and there's high winds up there on the arctic plains, aww but thankfully one day the transmission gave up in it, and then they put me in a 2015 KW T800, now that was an upgrade! I suppose Freightliners are like big women, some guys like em, but for the most part they dont work and smell bad! lol
Oh wow you were in the bush! That makes a huge difference. Where I use them, we lived in temperate climate, so freightlines weren’t so bad per se. I guess they’re cheap for a reason haha! But I will say if you want to great bush truck, KW’s is the only way to go. I view Peterbilts more like Cadillacs, they glide up and down the road a lot smoother and easy to look at(well, talking more about the classic lines look than this modern Paccar rubbish everybody sending out these days.) Nice to meet a fellow driver!✌🏼💪🏼🤘🏼
So if you use this his means you would have to get a new drive shaft correct?
I can use the old one, but it has to go into a driveline shop and have it chopped and rebalanced. Great question👍🏼
I'm having a hard time deciding if I want to put a gear vendor in my OBS F-350 dually with ZF5 or put an RTO6610 in it. Thoughts?
Short answer: Unless you are towing Mt Everest behind you I would stay with the gear venders overdrive. (Not affiliated or sponsored in anyway)
Long answer and reasoning:
With the Eaton fuller option that Transmission is going to be twice as heavy as your ZF5. I think it was around 400 pounds. Then you have to chase down the clutch linkages housing and configure new crossmember nonsense. At this point it is better to find a medium truck that already has all that stuff and simply use that as a donor vehicle to install everything on your OBS instead of chasing down parts. Plus since that transmission is a dual range (high and low range) those are split by an air switch. Now you’re gonna have to install an air compressor and an air tank underneath your hood or chassis. Those transmissions are also non-synchronized so you would be double clutching or, in my preference, I like to float the gears. You’ll also have a much bigger drag on the engine as that transmission will have way more rotating resistance because of all the gears and drive shafts inside. It won’t improve your miles per gallon in any way. The gears vendor overdrive unit is capable of up to 2000 hp and rated for 25,000 gross vehicle combined weight. If you’re pulling anything heavier than that you really need to get a medium truck such as a freightliner FL 60 et. as it already will have bigger factory brakes designed for pulling heavier loads. One thing to note with the gears vendor overdrive is you can manually overdrive every gear except 1st just by a flip of a switch. So with your ZF5 and a gear venders overdrive unit you have just turned your stock 5spd Transmission without the weight and major re-fabrication into a 9 speed. I do believe they have four-wheel-drive adapters in case you have to worry about transfer cases. Please note that if you’re in fifth gear and over driving that(double over) you’re not going to see an increase in miles per gallon. Also Gear vendors says specifically not to use double over when towing or loaded. But, in the lowers gears, it will help your towing capabilities by keeping the engine in a more ideal torque rpm range. If you wanted to do the eaten fuller swap just for a cool factor and you have a lot of time on your hands by all means go for it. It would definitely be an adventure! But for practical purposes I don’t see a point in it. For the sweat equity and money you would put into the RTO conversion alone it still would be worth it to buy a medium duty truck and use it if towing was your primary mission for the swap. Hopefully this will give you a little insight and helping you make your choice. Thanks for stopping by 🤟🏼
Thanks for the reply. So I will not see a mileage increase with double over? Or did I read your comment wrong?
You read it right. Per Gear vendor’s website in regards to automatic transmissions: “Cars and Trucks with 3.73 rear gears and higher (numerically) can also make use of double overdrive when not towing for 10-15% gains in MPG.” So if you got 15mpg you might get 1.5-2mph better. So is the $3500 gear vendors overdrive worth the 10%-15% potential increase in mpg? That’s for you and your budget to decide😉.
Interesting, GV says a 22-28% increase in mileage for manual transmission
Oh really? I missed that. Well you have all the numbers now. You just have to figure your purchase cost and your mpg increase potential and make a decision which only you can decide. Hoping it works out👍🏼.
I have 350 1989 any recommendations?
With that year you should have an overdrive on your transmission from the factory. If so I wouldn’t worry about adding another overdrive
Very good work! 🔧🔩 Is the transmission cross member changed due to the longer tail shaft?
No thank goodness. Fortunately the gears vendor Overdrive tail shaft housing is made with the same place as the stock tail shaft housing where the crossmember bolts up to. Factory direct fit from an aftermarket product. All I Gotta do now is figure out how much to chop off my driveline but I can’t do that until everything‘s in the rig. So I’m waiting on the cylinder heads. Ugh….ha ha 🙃
@@SwedeMachine Yeah the driveshaft is the big pain in the butt. I'm going to try to find a spare one first so I can remove the GVOD if I ever need to. Problem is, it's a mid 80s Ford E350 176" WB so that's a bit of a specialty driveshaft.